Black Ball Head

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Paddy O Leary writes: I have not had time to check that sea crag on the Beara (name I’ve forgotten) which Tiglin discovered and developed to quite an extent. It's great fun- just below the Buddhist retreat with a lovely small beach nearby.

Blackball Head is a headland 5 kilometers from Dzogchen Beara on the way to Dursey Sound.

A North West facing slab and wall below the signal tower. The inlet is known as Coosbunnadoonroe on the 6 inch map. To approach Scramble down the ridge for 150m until there is a ‘clean drop’ to your right, abseil in to a tidal ledge. Routes are listed from left to right.



Black Sabbath Slab

Approach: Scramble leftwards towards the huge cave on a good ledge above the high tide mark until you come to a very black, smooth, large featured, slabby face.

Black Sabbath.VS 4c, 20m.

Sile Daly, David Craig, 16/07/2017.

Start at the first obvious and widest crack trending diagonally to the right. Climb this for 3 meters until the angle eases, then step left onto the the face and climb up vaguely leftwards through the steepest territory you can see passing through a few overlaps to the top of the slab. 20 m.

Black Sabbath Wall

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1 Black Ball Corner Pocket. 45m V. Diff,

David Craig, Sile Daly 16/07/2017.

Climbs the obvious corner on the left side of the slab. Some suspect rock near the top.

Customs Drugs Watch 45m V Diff

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan,16/07/2017.

There is a recess in the middle of the wall. Follow the shallow crack line on the left side of the recess to the top. Good holds and protection along the way.

Fairies Wear Boots *45m V Diff

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16/07/2017.

Takes the shallow crack 2m right of the recess. A direct line to the top. Provides enjoyable, well-protected climbing.

4 Rack ’em up. 45m Diff,

David Craig, Sile Daly 16/07/2017.

Climbs the excellent shallow corner on the right side of the slab.