Binnian Lough Buttress

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J323245 Binnian Lough Crag is the outcrop about half way up the hill between Binnian Lough and North Tor. The first two routes are steep and on positive holds but the others are more typical of the Mournes. They are on good clean rock and with a sunny aspect the routes are described from left to right.


Blue Jay 10m HS 4a
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start at the left-hand side of the crag below a right pointing detached flake. Climb up and around its right-hand side and finish up the blocky wall above.


Different Drum 10m HVS 5a
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Climb the steep and open groove/wall 3m right of Blue Jay direct on good positive holds.


The next two routes are about 3m on past the steep central section with a grassy base with a left facing flake 2m up.


Rio 12m VS 4c
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start on ledges below and left of the flake Move right towards the flake. Get to the ledge above on its left side before moving left for 1m and finishing straight up.


Big Sky 13m El 5b
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start as for Rio. But go straight up on the horizontal breaks past a large right-pointing flake and finish up the shallow corner on the left.


Photon 11m E2 5c
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start at the left trending seam/edge 3m right of Rio. Up onto ledge, move right and onto another ledge. Using a small nubbin delicately up the wall to the flake.


Coyote 10m VS 4c
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start 3m right of Photon at a vertical crack. Follow this to a ledge and follow the seam running off left.


Missouri Breaks 10m HVS 5a
I. Rea, M. Rea. 6/91.
Start 2m right again of Coyote. Stand on a small foot ledge just above the ground (awkward). Now traverse left and up to gain the edge of a flake. Pull out right to a ledge and finish directly up a wall above.


Directly above Blue Lough Buttress and below Binnian Lough Crag is a large 'A' shaped slab which has two excellent beginners routes, one of which had been done before though never recorded. A higher standard route has since been added.


Untold Tales E3 6a/6b ** 15m
J.Orr J.Parr 2/11/08
Start below leftward pointing flakes at lowest point on the wall. Climb to and past these flakes to reach a small sloping ledge. Step right to good foothold and make a strenuous move on to the ledge to reach sloping break. Make moves through the breaks to reach good holds at top.


The Fred Beckey Direct * 70m VD
M. Rea, I. Rea. 23/9/90.
1) 40m. Climb clean slabby rib directly up the middle of the slab, keeping to the edge the whole way up. Belay on spike. 2) 30m Step left across onto slab, up this and finish up left facing layback


Family Favourites * 70m D
I. Rea, M. Rea. 23/9/90.
Start 5m left of The Fred Beckey Direct at a small left facing corner/slab. 1) 40m. Trend left up to where it narrows and a step right can be made into shallow left facing groove. Up this to grass ledge. Up and left into another left facing corner which is followed on the very edge to gain a grassy ledge at the base of a deep crack. 2) 30m Up fine crack to blocky bulge.Step down into a little alcove and then finish up and left via a series of blocky overlaps and corner.