Ballyryan
Introduction
This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.
KINDER SURPRISE HVS 5a
J. Hawkins 1994
Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.
WHOSE CORNER VS 4c
C. Torrans (solo)
The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.
WACKEY HS
Climb the broken crack, loose.
CAOIMHE VS???
Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010
1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.
FROST IN MAY S
Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.
RIB VD
The flakey rib just left of the chimney.
CHIMNEY D
The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)
LEFT CRACK HS 4b
The crack just right of chimney. (7)
RIGHT CRACK * VD
Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)
BALLYALPINE S
Unknown
Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top.
Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)
VULGARIAN S
R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98
Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)
WIDE CHIMNEY D
The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)
CHEAP LABOUR E1 5a
(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09)
This route is to the left of Slave Labour. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)
SLAVE LABOUR E1 5c
C. Torrans.
This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)
MANNERLESS MONSTER * HS 4b
C. Torrans.
This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.
THE ALCOVE CRACK * HS 4b
This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.
TRIUMPH CRACK * HS 4b
The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.
Dolmen Corner HS 4b
The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher.
HIPPY TO YUPPY HVS 5b
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86
Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.
DOLMEN CORNER HS 4b
unknown
The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.
BALLYRYAN DASHER S 4a
This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack. Take care with the rock.
LEGOVER S 4a
The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.
Don't Do This climb VS 4c (yet to be verified)
R. Dalton, B. Walsh
The crack between 'legover' and 'scower ball'. Little or no protection above 2/3rds height, some loose rock. Traverse to finish in 'legover' as direct finish is barren
SCOWER BALL E3 5c
D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04
An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.
CRACK 90 E3 6a
D. Johnson, August 1988.
Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?
ELVIS WHO? HVS 5a
D. O Sullivan, April 1986.
Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.
MR PRESIDENT VS 5a
A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.
The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.
Is Anyone In The Jacks VS 5a (Yet to be verified)
R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.
The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected
