Ballynahown

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Ballynahown

A high clean limestone cliff 300m ESE of Leaba na hAon Bhó Crag of Oughtdarra. Located on commonage. Google Maps coordinates 53.06716, -9.336550.

Peregrines are known to have nested here in the past, best to avoid it until August.

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AN CATHACH 15m HVS 5b ** Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011. This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top. (An Cathach was a legendary monster who inhabited Scattery island and terrorised people!!!!!!!)

AN TEACH SOLAS 14m HVS 5a Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011. This route starts at a steep wide crack in the middle of the crag. Bridge up the corner, using hand jams in the crack, to a ledge above the wide crack. Continue through easier horizontal breaks above.

CRANNOG HS 4b Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 9th August 2011. This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top.