Ballinaclough

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

Location - Lying about 5km to the south west of Waterford city (it is marked as Clashabeema on the new sheet 75, 1:50000)

The best area for activity faces south and lies at approx grid ref. S537056.

This area of small rocky outcrops has attracted the attention of some climbers from bygone days. The existence of an old rusty peg and a wooden wedge which is possibly even older bears testimony to this. However, in more recent times, the area has been bouldered on and in particular has been extensively top-roped as in general, protection is sparse if not non-existent.

However, there are numerous bouldering possibilities, ranging from small slabs to overhanging finger ripping sections. The following climbs which have all been led at some time or other are on the buttress at S537056.

2011-08-21 16-21-04 Ballinaclough Routes.jpg

1: THE LEFT GROOVE 11m HS 4b Start under a groove which begins at about 3 meters. Some steep climbing leads to better holds at the base of the groove, climb this easily, then layaway up wide crack to the top.

2: THE WEDGE 11m E1 5b/c Start about 2m to the right of The Left Groove. Climb delicately and without protection to a small overlap (therein lies the wooden wedge), where you may get protection, then climb delicately and with confidence to the top.

3: BULGING CRACK 11m HVS 5a Start on the slab to the right of the overhanging section (directly under an old metal piton). Quickly gain the overhang which is climbed on good holds to the slab above. Climb with confidence to where the cliff becomes vertical (protection possible), then climb the crack above to the top.

4: QUARTZ ARÊTE 11m HVS 5a Start about 1 - 2 meters to the right of Bulging Crack. Gain the arête and follow it to the top. Protection may be arranged with care on the right.

5: QUARTZ GROOVE 11m HS 4b Start at the base of the large gully/groove. Climb this for about 3 meters until it is possible to become established on the wall to the left, directly under a very obvious 'V' shaped niche in the rock. Climb up through this to the top.

6: GULLY 12m VD Climb this by bridging or smearing to the top, exiting to the right, then back left.

6a: GULLY Alternative finish 12m S Finish direct through broken overlap.

There is a smaller crag located to the east 150 meters away from the main crag.

Carpe Diem 8m D Climb up the obvious crack on the right hand side of the slab, good protection Shane Kelly, Lee O' Brien 14/01/2012


Location in Openstreetmap