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Carrick Mountain

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Added route 5.5 with location, grade, description

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Oughtdarra

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Beagle Walls

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Mahon Valley

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THE SMALL CRAGS

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Mahon Valley

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Mahon Valley

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Mahon Valley

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Mahon Valley

Barry watts — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 11:34:39 GMT

Mahon Valley

Gerry Fogg — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 11:08:44 GMT

STACK'S CLIFF

File:Mahon Small Crags.jpeg

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Mahon Valley

Gerry Fogg — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 07:46:12 GMT

THE SMALL CRAGS

Fanore

Barry watts — Wed, 29 Apr 2026 14:47:45 GMT

Introduction

Rocklands

Hummingbird — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 08:43:24 GMT

access and route description updates

Fanore

Barry watts — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 20:46:48 GMT

Introduction

File:ST.JPG

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Fanore

Barry watts — Sun, 26 Apr 2026 20:04:18 GMT

Introduction

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@@ Line 103: / Line 103: @@
 '''5. Cocooners and Zoomers'''. Diff.<br>Start 1m left of 4 below a niche. Step up and pull out left and follow cracks up to just right of tree stump.
 <br>''Gerry Moss, March 2020''
 '''6. Trump the Chump'''. HS(4a).<br>Start 2m left of 5 at the foot of a shallow right-facing cracked corner. Climb the corner, moving out left near its top, then move up to below a right-slanting crack and narrow ramp. Step up right onto the ramp then move straight up, to finish left of the tree stump.

@@ Line 640: / Line 640: @@
 [[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
-'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' 10m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests.<br />''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.
+'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' * 10m VS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests.'' ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 24th May 2026, free.<br />''Hand crack and cracked wall to top.
 '''POWER SEIZURE''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.<br />''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:59, 23 May 2026
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−	'''LEVIATHAN''' 9m E3 5c	+	'''LEVIATHAN''' 9m E2 5c

	- life without society.		- life without society.

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:36, 12 May 2026
(2 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
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	'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''		'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''
		+
		+	The first of these was Right Hand Crack in 1989. By Stephen Gallwey 8m HVS ! This has ‘sandbag’ written all over it. It is, most-assuredly, not 5a. The other two routes, to some extent, take their lead from this. The ‘painful hand-jams’ are to be found in the Centre Crack. There is no jamming in the Left Hand Crack - which does not and should not involve the uncleaned crack at the very left. The Left Hand Crack is more-protectable than it appears and has the nicest climbing. G.F. May 2026.

	'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a<br>		'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a<br>

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 <u>'''And Some Rather Less-Gentle Requests'''</u>
-#It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others.  Please do not do this.
+#It is considered very bad manners here, as elsewhere, to climb and claim routes which have - quite obviously - been cleaned by others (not by me).  Please do not do this.
 #Please do not assign names - plucked apparently from thin air - to any cliff or crag in the Comeraghs. The normal and accepted practice is that otherwise-unnamed crags are named by location or by obvious identifying feature or by common usage or else, after the first route put up on them.
 #It is not acceptable in the Comeraghs - or indeed in any other traditional climbing area in Ireland - to place bolts on routes. While it is true that bolts do exist, these have only been placed for lower-offs, where there was a very good reason for them, and only then by climbers with a very long association with the area.   G.F. 16th October 2025.

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 For Yerr Own Are The Worst and Leviathan: keep left behind the big boulder to the sloping hillside.
 For the rest: follow the path towards the Falls until a ridge of moraine provides a dry path across.
-[[File:IMG 2693.jpg]]
+[[File:Mahon Small Crags.jpeg]]

@@ Line 12: / Line 12: @@
 ==THE SMALL CRAGS==
-  Acess - there is a lot of wet ground between the car park and the various small crags.
+  Access - there is a lot of wet ground between the car park and the various small crags.
 For Yerr Own Are The Worst and Leviathan: keep left behind the big boulder to the sloping hillside.
 For the rest: follow the path towards the Falls until a ridge of moraine provides a dry path across.
@@ Line 173: / Line 173: @@
 '''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 	20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.''<br>
-J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989<br>20m  5a.  Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.'''THE DREAMING''' 	45m	E1 5b, 5b<br> J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989
+J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989<br>20m  5a.  Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.
 Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock.<br>

@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 #It is not acceptable in the Comeraghs - or indeed in any other traditional climbing area in Ireland - to place bolts on routes. While it is true that bolts do exist, these have only been placed for lower-offs, where there was a very good reason for them, and only then by climbers with a very long association with the area.   G.F. 16th October 2025.
-==PATHSIDE CRAGS==
+==THE SMALL CRAGS==
-From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West).  A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.
+'''LEVIATHAN'''  9m E3 5c
-'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m  HVS 5b
+- life without society.
 Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.
@@ Line 24: / Line 34: @@
 G. Fogg, J. Bergin   6/7/2022  On sight.
 '''<u>Cnocán Lower Buttress</u>'''
@@ Line 74: / Line 95: @@
 S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989<br>
 The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.
 ==Keating’s Cliff  (East-facing cliff)==

@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 m further Right/South there is
 [[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 '''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b
@@ Line 99: / Line 98: @@
 ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''
-In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.
+In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block further right and marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.
 '''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c
@@ Line 138: / Line 137: @@
 Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.
-The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.
+The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South on a steep prow of rock.
 [[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|800x800px]]
@@ Line 146: / Line 145: @@
 ''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
-'''STRAIT TO GLORY''' HVS
+Start 1m left of the steep blank corner at a short vertical crack, climb steeply up the crack and move diagonally leftwards to the wider crack, climb onto the laid back slab and finish rightwards up the slab.
 '' Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
 '''HORMUZ CRISIS''' VD
 ''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
 '''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''' S
 ''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
 [[File:ST.JPG|center|thumb|900x900px]]
@@ Line 163: / Line 170: @@
 '' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
 '''SIRENS TAIL''' VS
 '' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''
 The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 </display_map>
-Although access was an issue the the past but there have been no issues in recent times.
+Although access was an issue the the past, the crag and access is protected in the town plan.
-Access is through the Rocks Park, parking is available at [https://goo.gl/maps/5B9y2NAbhR7NP1Q26 St. Marys Maudlintown  GFC]. Follow up path the left side of the pitch, forking off to the left, after a short time there will be a gap in the ditch into a field of young eucalyptus trees. Follow the path along the bottom of this field and along a rough path on to the top of crag. To get to the base of the crag walk over the top towards the main road and then off to the left to get to the main decent gully. A second decent gully exists to the left of plum pud on the south slabs.
+Access is through the Rocks Park, parking is available at [https://goo.gl/maps/5B9y2NAbhR7NP1Q26 St. Marys Maudlintown  GFC]. Follow up path the left side of the pitch, forking off to the left, after a short time there will be a gap in the ditch into a field of scrub. Follow the path along the bottom of this field to a track through a field of overgrowth this brings you to the top of crag. To get to the base of the crag walk over the top towards the main road and then off to the left to get to the main decent gully. A second decent gully exists to the left of plum pud on the south slabs.
-FOR Approach from the Kerlogue Road Follow along the quays and out of Wexford towards Rosslare. A grotto is seen on the right with the crag is a short distance behind, and is easily recognizable from the road. Drive till there is a field on your right, park near the gate, cross the field and find a path to the base of the crag.
+FOR Approach from the Kerlogue Road Follow along the quays and out of Wexford towards Rosslare. A grotto is seen on the right with the crag is a short distance behind, and is easily recognizable from the road. Drive till there is a field on your right, park near the gate, cross the field and make a path to the base of the crag.
 Access is also available via Roxborough Manor on the Mulgannon Road but due to the ongoing building works the route is variable and so not described.
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 '''10. The Black Swan.''' 40ft. V. Diff.<br />''P. O'Connor. 28/5/1978''<br />Start by the wall at the L end of the buttress.<br />Climb onto small ledge then move R to bulge and onto slab. Move L around the nose and up slabs to top.
 '''11. The Spider.''' 55ft. VS.<br />''P. Wynne, P. Coakley 2/4/1978. (one point of aid)''<br />''First free ascent P. Coakley.''<br />This route takes a R-trending crack which starts 8ft. above the ground.<br />Start about 8ft L of Nectaris. Climb onto block and move up crack with increasing difficulty to small ramp below nose. Continue up L side of nose to top.
@@ Line 77: / Line 79: @@
 '''18. Chimney Sweep.''' 55ft. S.<br />''J. Leonard, P. O'Connor, S. Young. 28/5/1978.''<br />Start 8 ft. R of Chilli Con Corner, on the nose.<br />Climb up to ledge and step around into chimney. Move up chimney and follow steep groove to top. Belay well back.
-'''19. Burned Fingers.''' 55ft. VS 4b.<br />''P. Coakley, J. Leonard. 28/5/1978''<br />Start about 12ft. R of Chilli Con Corner, Below the first of two grooves. Climb up groove to good ledge. Move L for 2ft. (runner)then diagonally R to a small ledge at base of groove (crux). Continue more easily to top. Belay well back. Protection poor.
+'''19. Burned Fingers.''' 55ft. VS 4b.<br />''P. Coakley, J. Leonard. 28/5/1978''<br />Start about 12ft. R of Chilli Con Corner, Below the first of two grooves. Climb up groove to good ledge. Move L for 2ft. (runner)then diagonally R to a small ledge at base of groove (crux). Continue more easily to top. Belay using anchors.
-'''20. Scorpion.''' 60ft. HVS4c<br />''P. Coakley, B. Walker. 23/4/1978.''<br />Start about 14ft. R of Chilli Con Cornerat the second of two grooves.<br />Move up dirty groove to small grass ledge, continue up a few feet then go diagonally R to the lowest point of the overlap (delicate, runner). Step around overlap onto narrow ledge. Continue straight to top on good holds (strenuous). Belay well back. Protection poor.
+'''20. Scorpion.''' 60ft. HVS4c<br />''P. Coakley, B. Walker. 23/4/1978.''<br />Start about 14ft. R of Chilli Con Cornerat the second of two grooves.<br />Move up dirty groove to small grass ledge, continue up a few feet then go diagonally R to the lowest point of the overlap (delicate, runner). Step around overlap onto narrow ledge. Continue straight to top on good holds (strenuous). Belay using anchors. Protection poor.
 '''21. Cygnus.''' 55ft. VS<br />''T. Irving, J. Flanagan. 6/7/1978.''<br />Start about 30ft R of Chilli Con Corner.<br />Ascend L-hand corner of slab for about 12ft. (crux). Traverse L for 4ft. to large jug, straight up wall on good holds. Traverse R below block then R for top. Protection poor.
@@ Line 85: / Line 87: @@
 [[File:Mainface5.JPG|alt=|1000x1000px]]
-'''22. Reunion.''' 70ft. VS.<br />''T. Irving, P. Coakley. 28/5/1978.''<br />This route takes a traversing line at the R end of the buttress.<br />Start about 5ft. L of the big vegetated groove at lowest point of crack. Climb diagonally L along crack to ledge near top of wall (as for Scorpion). Step down and around L to smaller ledge (runner). Finish up groove above. Belay well back. Protection poor.
+'''22. Reunion.''' 70ft. VS.<br />''T. Irving, P. Coakley. 28/5/1978.''<br />This route takes a traversing line at the R end of the buttress.<br />Start about 5ft. L of the big vegetated groove at lowest point of crack. Climb diagonally L along crack to ledge near top of wall (as for Scorpion). Step down and around L to smaller ledge (runner). Finish up groove above. Belay using anchors. Protection poor.
-'''23. Maiden's Ladder.''' 55ft. HS.<br />''D. Kenna, C. McGrath. April, 1978''<br />Start as for reunion. Climb L-ward leading ramp to a stance. Continue straight up on small sloping holds. Belay well back. Protection poor.
+'''23. Maiden's Ladder.''' 55ft. HS.<br />''D. Kenna, C. McGrath. April, 1978''<br />Start as for reunion. Climb L-ward leading ramp to a stance. Continue straight up on small sloping holds. Belay using anchors. Protection poor.
 '''24. Jack in the Green.''' 70ft. VS 4c.<br />''B. Walker, T.Irving. 28/5/1978.''<br />Start 5ft. L of vegetated groove.<br />Gain the base of obvious diagonal crack. Climb this to a bulge and mantelshelf over this to top (crux).
-'''25. Ivy Direct.''' 60ft. HVS.<br />''T. Irving, B. Walker. 28/4/1978''<br />Start at base of vegetated groove (ivy).<br />Climb wall to small stance, continue to large ledge on good holds (overhanging). Climb 6ft. wall to top. Belay well back.
+'''25. Ivy Direct.''' 60ft. HVS.<br />''T. Irving, B. Walker. 28/4/1978''<br />Start at base of Jack in The Green.<br />Climb wall to small stance, continue to large ledge on good holds (overhanging). Climb 6ft. wall to top. Belay well back.
-'''26. Troubadour.''' 65ft. HS.<br />''B. Walker, T. Irving. 28/4/1978.''<br />Start as for Ivy Direct.<br />Climb with some delicate moves to gain the base of the corner. Bridge up the cornerto the ledge. Finish directly up wall. Belay well back.
+'''26. Troubadour.''' 65ft. VS.<br />''B. Walker, T. Irving. 28/4/1978.''<br />Start as for Ivy Direct.<br />Climb with some delicate moves to gain the base of the corner. Bridge up the corner to the ledge. Finish directly up wall. Belay well back.
 ==North Slabs==
@@ Line 101: / Line 103: @@
 [[File:Mainface3.JPG|800px|Mainface3.JPG]]
-'''27. Pegasus.''' 40ft. Severe.<br />''J. Hastings, J. Flanagan. Feb. 1978.''<br />Start 10ft. R of the big vegetated groove.<br />Climb straight up to a small stance beneath the overhang (runner). Move up onto the slab above the overhang and climb this to the top.
+'''27. Pegasus.''' 40ft. Severe.<br />''J. Hastings, J. Flanagan. Feb. 1978.''<br />Start 10ft. R of the big vegetated groove.<br />Climb straight up to a small stance beneath the overhang (runner). Move up onto the slab above the overhang and climb this to the top. Protection Poor
-'''28. Nth. Slabs Groove.''' 35ft. V. Diff.
+'''28. Nth. Slabs Groove.''' 35ft. V. Diff. The corner left of Pegasus.
 ==North Buttress==
@@ Line 115: / Line 117: @@
 '''30. Left Hand Crack.''' 45ft. VS 4c<br />
 ''T. Irving. 5/2/1978.''<br />
-Start by two blocks with two cracks in the wall beside them. Climb L-hand crack to ledge. Move R following easy line to top. Protection poor.
+Climb L-hand crack heading right to ledge. Move L using the short arete or corner to move upwards. form there follow easy line to top.
 '''31. Route 30.''' 45ft. HS.<br />

@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.
-[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 [[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 '''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b
@@ Line 62: / Line 65: @@
 The crack to the right of Elf.
 '''RODEO DRIVE''' S
@@ Line 75: / Line 80: @@
 Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.
-m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
+m to the Right/South there is the main buttress.
 [[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 '''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D
@@ Line 113: / Line 118: @@
 Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
-[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
+[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]
 '''THE WALRUS''' 10m S
@@ Line 135: / Line 140: @@
 The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.
-[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|500x500px]]
+[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|800x800px]]
 '''BEACH LOUNGER''' S
@@ Line 152: / Line 157: @@
 ''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''
 '''NOT SO STRAIT''' VD

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:04, 26 April 2026
Line 134:		Line 134:

	The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.		The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.
		+
		+	[[File:F8.JPG\|center\|thumb\|500x500px]]

	'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S		'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S