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Ballykeefe Quarry

2026-02-03T08:53:18Z

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

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==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]

'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

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'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:470644.jpg|600px]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

Ballykeefe Quarry

2026-02-03T08:52:31Z

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104436_7.jpg]]

==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]

'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]

'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:470644.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

Ballykeefe Quarry

2026-02-03T08:51:54Z

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

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==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

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'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]

'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:470644.jpg|thumb]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

Ballykeefe Quarry

2026-02-03T08:50:49Z

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

==Introduction==

[[File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173710_6~2.jpg]]

Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104436_7.jpg]]

==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]

'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]

'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

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'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

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Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

File:470644.jpg

2026-02-03T08:50:39Z

route

Ballykeefe Quarry

2026-02-03T07:45:04Z

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

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==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]

'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]

'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

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'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

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'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

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Ballykeefe Quarry

2024-11-22T17:11:01Z

==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

'''UPDATE 2023:'''

As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.

'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**'''

If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

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==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)

The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]

'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+ ''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011 ''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

Bell Rock - Avoca

2024-07-22T08:39:21Z

'''Bell Rock Avoca'''

Sport Crag

(please observe approach details especially)

[[File:Bell Rock Overview.jpg|alt=|884x884px]]

This crag is situated on the western side of the Avoca valley at grid ref 199 814 on OS sheet 62, or about 1 mile north of Avoca village, overlooking the R752. It sits amongst a clump of pine trees, on top of yellow colored scree slopes. It’s located in a picturesque setting, with nice views from the top, and receives good morning sunshine (east and south facing). There is even a pleasant swimming hole in the river just upstream. It gets its name from the bell that was placed on top which was rung to inform mine workers in the 1800’s. There is still evidence of that bygone era on the crag today. The rock seems to be black shale that has undergone volcanic treatment and is very hard and brittle, sharp and somewhat chossy in places. Considerable effort has been made to clean off all loose stuff, however it is likely that there will be more and thus wearing a helmet is advisable (at least for belaying). Belay stances can be a little awkward, though belay anchors have been placed where needed. Traversing along the base can be a little sketchy. This crag probably deserves a more adventure type climbing approach than a sporty one! All that said, it does provide some surprisingly nice, safe sport lines. The routes range from F5+ to 7b?, and all have double bolted anchors at the top. The climbing style is very technical, steep in places and often quite cryptic; very different to any other climbing in Wicklow. Holds tend to be tiny edges, layaways/sidepulls and under clings and often present rather obscure climbing. The rock doesn’t lend itself well to natural gear, hence the rational to equip as a sport crag. Apparently a couple of lines had been climbed here by the previous climbing generation, but details are a little vague. As far as I could gather this crag is on private land, however I understand there may be a change of ownership going on. Permission has not been asked for, nor granted to climb here, so do so discreetly and at your own discretion. The more subtle we can keep this crag, the longer we may get to use it. Please exercise caution when climbing here, especially on approach, where there is most public visibility. As this crag has been developed slowly over the past few years it is apparent that ravens nest around the main wall, so I would urge folk not to climb here during the springtime. They seem to be gone/happier with visitors from about end of May on. After rain, the main wall drys quickly, however the routes in the trees below take some time to dry out.

APPROACH There is ample parking in a car park by a disused industrial building at the entrance to Ballymurtagh recycling depot. Walk south 200m until beside a council type yard/depot, opposite a scree slope where a stream pours out of a culvert. Whilst there is an obvious route from here up the scree, I think its inadvisable to use it as it may draw too much attention. Instead, walk further south about 100m, and as the verge becomes a foot path proper at the apex of the bend, cross the road (caution), through the trees and cut straight up the scree slope via a vague gully. From here turn hard right, and follow a wee path along the very edge of the embankment. After about 20 m turn sharp left, into the treeline, along a ditch until its end and turn hard left up through the trees to the base of the crag. The first route you see is Buckaroo, long slabs leading into a right hand corner.

Location: 52.870690, -6.220830

Google Maps Link: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MGiN7QK7Y1y1AzE6A

[[File:Bell rock routes.jpg]]

(Clearer Crag Topo to be uploaded shortly)

Routes are described from RIGHT TO LEFT. (Lengths are approximate)

'''''*''''''''BUCKAROO'''- '''F6C 20m '''
Climbs the very right hand face and groove on long clean looking slabs. Stick clip first bolt to protect a bouldery start. Climb the corner and face being careful what you pull on!. Follow the steeper top groove until dynamic moves up and right relents to a leftward scramble to the lower-offs. Good technical climbing with an exciting finish.

'''''ROCKYS ROUTE'''''- '''5+'''?? '''20m''' Bouldery start, heading left after the first clip of the previous climb. Follows an easier groove leftwards, with a pleasant tree encounter on route. At the top climb right to the same anchors as Buckaroo.

Continue up along the base for the next 20m, until you come around a steep overhanging prow. Starting from the bottom left of this is:

'''''*''''''''AFTER THOUGHT'''- '''7b'''?? '''20m''' 
Open project. Left up the groove to good under clings, then a series of powerful moves up the right hand wall leads to an easier but bouldery top out directly over the last bolt (don’t chicken out sideways!). Brilliant climbing.

5 m left, some hand lines start. For the following routes it is advisable to gear up here, but you can squeeze into some (awkward) corners higher up. Carefully scramble up leftwards to the base of the main wall along the hand lines. In the middle of this is:

'''''A MANS BEST FRIEND'''''- '''6b. 15m''' 
Diagonal leftward line up the middle of the overhung wall. Don’t forget to enjoy the views from the top. Sustained.

'''7a- 7m'''? 
As you lower off the previous route, you can swing left to a set of anchors about half way up the wall. The climbing to these is powerful and nice, but the rock is pretty dubious to hold a bolt, its probably better left as a top rope route……..?

'''''*''''''''RUBIK’S GROOVE'''- '''6b. 15m''' 
Perhaps the route of the crag. As you round the arete on the left of the wall, a series of short grooves lead to the top. The very first one gives brilliant climbing up and right, meeting the arete at about half height. Funky/obscure climbing.

'''''GROOVY TUESDAY'''''- '''5+ 12m''' 
The second groove gives nice climbing up into a corner, surmount this crux leftward and weave to the top anchors as for ‘Rubiks’.

If you continue up and left you will see the last clean looking line, which has a set of anchors at the top, but no runners in. its short and pretty blank, I think this nice line can be climbed; although never has been….. any takers?

ENJOY

Andy

Garron Point

2024-07-09T06:37:19Z

T: /* Approach notes */

====Sport====
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.

The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn.

AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.

=====Approach notes=====
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.

The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.

Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]

'''Small wall left to right.'''

6b - straight up bolts

6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts

6a - straight up right line of bolts

'''Right of small wall.'''

7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête

7a- arête

'''Main wall'''

8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top)

7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish

7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+

8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c.

'''Steep side Pinnacle -'''

6c+ - left side

6c - right side

'''Slab side pinnacle -'''

2x 5s

'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''

The left hand line below was first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as a highball slab. It has now been equipped as a beginner sport route with a lower off.

4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)

6b - Deep Blue Sea

 
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|thumb|slab|alt=|center]]

'''Trad'''

Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.

Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.

Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.

'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''

'''Moratorium''' 40m HS 
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970. 
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.

'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS 
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969. 
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. 1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. 2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.

'''King Nose''' 40m S 
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971. 
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. 1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. 2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.

'''Tort''' 56m S 
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971. 
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. 1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. 2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.

'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2 
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970. 
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. 1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. 2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.

'''El Condor''' 42m S 
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970. 
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. 2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.

'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''

'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''

'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS 
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969. 
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.

'''Ottago''' 33m S 
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969. 
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.

'''Heckler''' 40m VS 
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72. 
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. 1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. 2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.

'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''

'''Violator''' 18m VD 
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969. 
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.

'''The Savage''' 35m VD 
F Mason. 1966 
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).

'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c 
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995. 
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.

Bray Head

2024-07-08T14:23:51Z

T: /* Ballynamuddagh South */

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

'''Selected climbs on Bray Head.''' 
'''The cliffs below Bray Head (O290 156) provide a pleasant introduction to sea cliff climbing and all that it entails: abseil approaches, tidal belays; etc. They are modest in height and difficulty - nothing higher than 28m or harder than 5a. The rock is slate, smooth and hard with sharp holds, providing good friction when dry, but very slippery and best avoided when wet. The benign influence of the sea ensures that temperatures never drop too low and the fact that this stretch of coastline is very sheltered, being protected by Bray Head from the westerly winds, makes climbing here possible throughout the winter. It is not the place to be, however, when the winds are coming from the east or north-east.'''

'''The best time to visit the cliffs is at low tide, though many of the climbs can be done at all states of the tide. The national newspapers publish tide tables, giving up-to-the-minute information on the times of high tides all around our coast or you can check on the web.'''

'''There have been many changes in the Bray area since the last Bray Head guide was published in 1978. A huge increase in the population of Bray and North Wicklow, coupled with an upsurge of interest in leisure walking, has led to large numbers using the Cliff Path on a daily basis, making the climbs immediately above the Path unfeasible. In addition, the extension of the DART service to Greystones has greatly increased traffic, and security, on the section of the railway line running below Bray Head, with the result that many of the climbs on the cliffs below the line are now out of bounds. However, the two areas detailed here, Cable Rock and Streaky Slab, have no access problems, as they can be reached without trespassing on the line. We have listed only the more popular climbs in these two areas; routes that have been climbed frequently over the years and have stood the test of time. Full details of all the climbs on Bray Head can be found in the Bray Head guide book, published by the F.M.C.I. in 1978 and copies of this are included below.'''
====Acess by public transport.====
'''All the climbs are accessed from The Cliff Path, which runs along the coast, above the railway line, from Bray to Greystones. The Path starts at the southern end of Bray Esplanade (twenty minutes walk from Bray DART station, or five minutes from the terminus of the 45 bus route). From here a pleasant walk of about twenty minutes will bring you to Streaky Slab, while the gate for Cable Rock is a further ten minutes along the Path'''

====Access by car====
'''Traveling south on the M11/N11, ignore the turn-offs for Bray and take the turn off signposted Greystones. Take the Greystones exit on the next two roundabouts. Immediately after cresting the long hill (Windgates), take the turn on the left, which ends at a private car park fronting some new houses, Turn here and drive back up the road a short distance, to where there parking is possible against the hedge on the left. Walk down past the houses, cross the stile, and follow the track down to the Cliff Path (5 minutes). This point on the Path is a 30 minute walk from the southern end of Bray promenade, or a 15 minute walk from Windgates, which is on the No.84 (Dublin/Delgany) bus route. Turn right for Cable Rock, or left for Streaky Slab.'''

'''The climbs, and the climbing areas, are described from left to right (south to north).'''
====Cable Rock====
'''From the stile mentioned above walk to the right (south) for a few metres and go through the gate in the fence on the left (the gate is now flat on the ground, smothered in grass), following a narrow path down towards the sea (watch out for the two narrow dykes en route). After passing through a patch of furze watch out for the stump of a telegraph pole and, on your left, the top of a rusty bracket sticking up above the top of the cliff.''' 
'''Cable Rock has two sections; Bracket Slabs and The Pulpit Area and access to both is by abseil.'''

====The Pulpit====
'''For The Pulpit area continue along the faint path beyond the pole stump for about 50m, to where the rocky top of the cliff is visible down below on the left. Go down carefully over steep grass and rock to the top of the cliff and locate a prominent, flat-topped buttress rising almost halfway up the slabs below. This is The Pulpit and the first climbs start from here. The rock in this area is of excellent quality, though the rounded footholds require competent footwork. To reach the Pulpit either abseil down the short groove (the Gangplank, Moderate) or climb down it.'''

[[file:pulpit.jpg|800x800px|alt=]]

'''Pulpit Area''' 
A = The Pulpit. B = Cockle. C = Scallop. D = Puffin. E = Barnacle. F = Carrageen. G = Are You With Me? H = Crab. J = Blackbottom. 
Winkle-picker. 19m    S    (3c) 
Just left of the Pulpit an obvious wide crack runs up the easy-angled slabs. This is the line of Cockle and about 2m left of this is a groove, partly hidden from view. The climb follows this groove. Start from the Pulpit. Climb down the steep left-hand side of the Pulpit and step across to the base of Cockle crack. A little above the high-water mark a thin crack runs across left towards the groove. Traverse delicately along this and make a long step left into the base of the groove. Climb this to the top. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 2/11/1975

Cockle.     18m    D 
Half tide only. Start from the Pulpit. Climb down the steep left-hand side of the Pulpit and step across to the base of the crack. Climb this. There is another route starting in a separate crack system just to the right of Cockle. This route was climbed on the same day as Cockle but was never recorded for some reason. Well worth doing. Climb the crack easily to the base of an obvious flake. Ascend the flake to top. V.Diff. 
G. Moss, T. Clancy 21/9/1974

'''Scallop**'''     15m    HS    (4b) 
A narrow chimney separates the left side of the Pulpit from the slabs. A thin, intermittent crack starts near the base of the chimney and runs up the steep slab to a little notch at the top. This is the line of Scallop. 
Climb down the steep left-hand side of the Pulpit and move into the base of the short chimney. Gain the crack and climb it. Protection adequate, though it needs careful placement. At full tide, or when heavy seas are running, the crack can be reached by a delicate traverse left from the Pulpit platform. 
G.Moss, T. Forde, 8/11/1975. 

[[file:bray10 020.jpg|600px]]

SCALLOP HS 4b

The Gangplank    10m     M 
The easy angled crack in the groove above the Pulpit. Either back-climb it or abseil down it to reach the Pulpit. OYSTER.     12m     S ) 
Start from the Pulpit. Climb diagonally right up the black slab to the right of The Gangplank to a horizontal crack. Make a delicate step across right to a small spike and follow the thin crack on small holds. 
G.Moss, T. Forde, 24/8/1976

LOBSTER     13m     S    (4a) 
Start from the Pulpit. Move across right to the foot of a narrow slab with an overlap and thin crack on it's left. Climb the narrow slab until it is possible to step across right (crossing the line of Puffin) onto the main slab, below a flake-crack sloping up right. Layback the flake to the top. 
T. Forde, G. Moss, 31/8/1976.

PUFFIN*     18m     HS    (4b) 
Scramble down the right-hand side of the Pulpit, and step right into a groove. Climb this to the base of the deep crack. Climb the crack, moving left into a groove near the top. Large hexes or friends useful. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 12/10/1974.

RULE THE WAVES.    15m     HS    (4b) 
Scramble down the right-hand side of the Pulpit and move right across the groove to the foot of the steep, dimpled slab. Climb this, trending slightly right near the top. Sparse Protection. 
G.Moss, P. Britton 5/10/1985.

Carraigeen*     18m     HS    (4b) 
About 8m right of the Pulpit a narrow chimney runs straight up the slab from the sea. This is the line of Barnacle, and the climb starts from it's base. 
Start from a nut belay at the base of the chimney, reached by abseil. The belay point varies with the state of the tide. Climb diagonally left across the slab to gain a crack which runs up diagonally left. Follow the crack to finish up via the flake as for the finish of Lobster. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 8/3/1975.

Thoughts from the Glans. 12m S    (4a) 
Start as for Carrageen. Climb up the grey slab a little left of the chimney, on rounded holds, to reach left-trending crack. Pass the left side of a bulge and climb direct to the top on good jugs. 
M. Tracey, July, 1992.

Barnacle*     12m     VD 
Start As for Carrageen. Climb the chimney . 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 12/10/1974.

ARE YOU WITH ME**     14m     HVS     (5a) 
Start As for Carrageen. Step out right and climb onto small overhanging block. Make a bold move out right and mantelshelf up onto ledge (crux). Good flake hold about 1.5m right of the overhanging block. Climb left-trending crack to top on good holds (small wires useful for protection). 
Mick Tracey, July 1992

Hornblower's Crack.     14m     VS     (4c) 
Start about 4m right of Barnacle chimney, on a short ramp just above the high tide mark. Climb slightly left into recessed crack, which is left trending (crux). Follow the obvious line to the top. 
M. Tracey July 1992.

[[File:Bray bracket.png|500x500px]]

Crab.     12m     D 
Useful for starting Mammary Gland. 5m right of Barnacle there is an easy angled chimney with a steep undercut base, this is the line of Crab. 
Abseil down to a nut belay in the base of the chimney. Climb the chimney. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 22/3/1975.

Mammary Gland     15m     HVS     (5a) 
Low tide only. After a difficult start it joins Thunderbolt at half-height. 
Start As for Crab, at the very bottom of the chimney. Make a difficult traverse right from the base of Crab to a small ledge. Climb right up the crack above, tricky to start with, but easing with height. 
J. O'Reilly, P. Owens, D Whooley, Nov. 1990.

====Bracket Slabs====
'''For Bracket Slabs, you need to locate the boulders, with several pitons in situ (check their condition before using them), two meters in from the edge of the cliff and opposite the obvious brackets jutting out from just below the top of the cliff. An abseil of 25 meters from the edge of the cliff, down between the two brackets, following the obvious groove of Cricklewood, will land you on The Slipway. Unless you are leaving the rope in situ you will need to extend the anchor point to the edge of the slab, otherwise the rope may not pull down.''' 
'''NOTE: The easiest line back up from here is Cricklewood, at mild severe (harder in wet conditions).'''

'''From the base of Cricklewood a sloping shelf - The Slipway - runs down along the foot of the slabs to the sea-floor. Immediately left of Cricklewood is a fine lichen-spotted slab, with a thin crack running up it's right-hand side to an overhang: this is Spinnaker. Left of Spinnaker a narrow, bow-shaped slab gives the line of Camán, and immediately left of this is a constricted chimney - Tough Soot. The corners down to the left of this have been climbed, but in recent years they have become very vegetated on the upper section, due to soil slippage, and are no longer feasible. At the foot of the Slipway is Black-Bottom, a large, black, undercut slab with a crack running across it's lower section and an overhang on the top left.''' 

'''Thunderbolt''' VD 
Low tide only. Start in the corner below and left of the bottom of the Slipway, to the left of Black-Bottom slab. Climb up to reach the right end of a horizontal crack. Move out along this and up to a second crack. Continue easily to the top. 
G. Moss, T. Forde 15/3/1975 

[[file:bray10 014a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Slipway.''' bb - Blackbottom VS. A - Toughsoot HVS. B - Camán HS. C - Spinnaker VS. D - Cricklewood MS.

'''Black-bottom'''     20m     VS     (4c) 
Low tide only. (poor protection). Start by scrambling carefully down to reach an oblong, seaweed-covered block at the bottom of the Slipway. Step off the block onto the slab and move left to a niche at the foot of the vertical crack. Climb the crack until it fades out below the overhang. Make a couple of difficult moves right to gain good holds and climb diagonally right to the top of the slab. Pull up over the overhanging corner and follow the groove up left to a belay. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 15/3/1975

'''Tough Soot'''     28m     HVS     (5a, 4c) 
Low to half-tide Start from the Slipway, at the foot of a narrow chimney, just left of Camán. 
1. 18m Climb the chimney and the corner above to a block belay just below the left edge of The Crow's Nest. 
2. 10m (delicate and unprotected originally, this pitch has recently been equipped with pitons). Climb the green slab above, starting at the bottom right and finishing on the top left or, if preferred, climb the 2nd pitch of Camán). 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 20/3/1976

'''Camán.'''     28m     HS     (4b, 4a) 
'''Note''' This climb has recently, and unnecessarily, been equipped with numerous pitons. How long they will last in the salt-laden atmosphere remains to be seen. 
Start from the Slipway, at the foot of a narrow, curving slab with a deep crack in the overlap on its right. 
1. 18m Climb the slab (a runner on the curve of the crack will prevent the rope from becoming jammed in the crack) and the corner above, to a block belay below the Crow's Nest, as for Tough Soot. 
2 10m Climb the thin crack just left of the first bracket. 
T. Forde, G.Moss, 7/12/1974

[[File:Cricklewood 1.jpg|707x707px]]

Spinnaker*     28m     VS     (4c, 4a) 
Start from the Slipway, 3m left of Cricklewood, at the bottom right of the slab. 1. 18m Climb the shallow crack (small wires) on small holds to reach a good hold 2m below the overhang. Make a difficult move up (crux) to gain a good crack beneath the overhang. Step out right move up and over the blocks to the Crows Nest. 
2. 10m As for the second pitch of Camán. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 18/10/1975

Cricklewood**     28m     S    (4a) 
The first route put up in this area, and probably the most frequently climbed line hereabouts. Start On the Slipway, below the obvious long groove. Climb the groove, which is difficult to start, to the Crow's Nest (possible belay, advisable during stormy weather, when communication is difficult), and continue up the shallow corner between the two brackets. 
G. Moss, T. Clancy, 21/7/1974

[[file:abroute.jpg|600px]]

'''Cricklewood S (line of abseil access)'''

Razorbill     28m     S    (4a)
The initial slab is delicate, particularly when wet. Start just right of Cricklewood, below a narrow slab, with a thin crack on its right. Climb the slab near its left edge (delicate) and the rib on the edge of Cricklewood until an obvious traverse line leads left into that climb. Finish as for Cricklewood. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 12/10/1974.

====Telegraph Slab====

Right of Bracket Slab and away from the sea.

The telegraph pole on the left in the topo gave the name to Telegraph Slab but it was badly burnt in a gorse fire a few years back and cut down (the wires now run along the railway line through the tunnel). We used to ab down the slab from the pole, when going down to the foot of Bracket Slabs, so the slab got a fair bit of traffic and we kept the routes fairly clean, but they are all vegetated now and have been included just for the record. The whole area where the pole was has become covered in gorse but you might find one of the steel braces for the pole among the furze bushes and ab from that. Now the preferred approach is to ab down the line of Cricklewood from 3 insitu pegs.

[[File:bray24 telegraph topo.png]]

[[File:bray1.png]]

[[File:bray2.png]]

The line of Twilight is now buried beneath huge piles of boulders, put there to prevent coastal erosion.

====Streaky Slab====
Home to some of the earliest climbs in the country.

Access. 
Coming from Bray, follow the Cliff Path to a point a few metres short of where it rises to meet a short flight of steps, 20 minutes, (coming from the other direction, this is the flight of steps you descend, 10 minutes). Cross the fence and follow traces of a narrow path leftwards towards a patch of scree. Go down over this to a path fronting a bank. Shaft is reached by turning left here, but for Streaky Slab turn right and follow the path, with care, for about 50m, to a little rocky notch above some steps leading down to a boulder field. Cross this to the bottom of the slab. 
The first three climbs were originally started by traversing in above the sea from a concrete platform to the right of the slab, but the platform has been demolished and the sea pushed back by the dumping of large boulders here in an attempt to protect the railway line from coastal erosion.

[[File:Bray streaky slab1.jpg|681x681px]]

Airy Edge*    18m    VD 
Well named. Start from the boulders below the left edge. Climb up to a saddle below the edge. Follow the edge, keeping to the face of the slab. 
Old I.M.C. circa 1942.

Fat Crack.     18m     M 
Start below the wide crack. Climb up to the crack and follow it to the top. 
Old I.M.C. circa. 1942.

Jack Spratt.     15m     VS     (4b) 
Delightful, delicate, but unprotected slab climbing; a more serious proposition nowadays, as a fall would land you on the boulders, rather than in the sea. Start below a thin, shallow, intermittent crack running up near the centre of the slab. Climb the crack to a narrow sloping ledge just below half-height. A couple of thin moves lead to better holds and the horizontal section of Fat Crack. Finish direct. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 9/11/1974

LEAN CRACK* 14m VD 
Pleasant climbing on small holds, with good protection. Start
2m in from the right edge, below the obvious crack. Some
difficult moves lead to better holds, step left near the top to
finish up the crack. 
Old I.M.C. circa. 1942. )

'''The next climb lies a little to the north of Streaky Slab and is approached by turning left after descending to the bank mentioned above. Follow the narrow path carefully north to the cave-like mouth of the adit. The rock here is quartzite, the protection excellent, and the climb worth making the short detour for. '''

Shaft**     20m     VS    (4b) 
Start at the entrance to the adit. Climb up on the right and step left onto the roof of the adit. Follow the crack into the corner and step right to climb the rib leading to some blocks below the start of the deep, clean crack running up left. Follow this up over a bulge. Move slightly right and up to belay on a large block. 
G. Moss, T. Forde, 9/10/1976. 

[[file:shafta.jpg|600px]]

'''Shaft VS4b'''

==Inland Climbs==

====Ballynamuddagh South====

I first climbed on this buttress back in 1974, soloing several routes at the time, some of the quite airy. But I wasn’t satisfied with the clumps of heather obscuring holds at the bottom and top of the climbs, or the fact that there were numerous small, loose rocks sitting on ledges (probably cast down during the construction of the track and boundary wall above, all those years ago), so the plan was to return and tidy everything up before submitting the routes for publication. Then Ted came along, we turned our attention to the sea cliffs and so Ballynamuddagh South never made it into the little guidebook “Bray Head and Minor Crags around Dublin” published in 1978. The approach follows a carriageway constructed by Lord Meath over a hundred years ago, to allow visitors staying at his nearby mansion, Killruddery House, enjoy the wide-ranging views from the Head without having to put a foot to the ground. Happily, pedestrian use of the carriageway has always been allowed. All-in-all, a pleasant spot for an easy day, a sunny winter's morning or a summer evening, and only a twenty minute stroll from the car park or bus-stop.

[[File:BNMT001a.jpg|600px|BNMT001a.jpg]]

View of buttress from the track.

'''APPROACH.''' '''Leave the N11 at junction 7, (the one north of Kilmacanoge) and follow the signposts for Greystones to reach the R761, the road leading directly from Bray to Greystones. Drive up the hill towards Greystones, passing the entrance to Bray Golf Club, and take the first turn on the left. This turn is directly opposite a Dublin Bus shelter on the far side of the road. (For those travelling by bus (no.84) alight at Windgates, 5 meters from here). Drive a short distance down this cul-de-sac to park at the far end of a low stone wall on the right, near the foot of a lane (the original carriageway).'''

Parking coordinates appears to be here: 53.174211, -6.094174 / https://maps.app.goo.gl/U9PMSARgy3g89nav7

'''Approaching from this direction the buttress we are heading for is the nearest and highest of the Ballynamuddagh buttresses, yet, conversely, it is the last of the three to come into view. It lies only a few meters below the track, directly under one of the few remaining sections of the old boundary wall and directly above a small beach covered in boulder armour. The crag is tucked into a steep, bracken-covered slope and it is possible, with care, to scramble down near the northern edge, to access the foot of the crag (look for traces of a path going down by the two small, dead trees). Or you can, if you choose, use one of several abseil points I equipped while cleaning, but note that each of these points can, and should, be backed up with an additional thread, hex or nut. A 50m rope, doubled, will get you to the foot of the climbs and as an added precaution, if you do decide to abseil in, it makes sense to gear up just below the wall, before moving down to the ab point.'''

'''Note: while several of the easier climbs can be well protected and may be suitable for those learning to lead, the centre of the face is steep, with small holds, and spaced protection, requiring steadiness. The climbs are described from Left to Right while facing the crag.'''

'''The first four routes start from the same belay point - at a little furze bush at the bottom of the left edge of the crag.'''

[[File:BNMT002a.jpg|600px|BNMT002a.jpg]]

I. Leo. Diff. Climb the Left edge, step across L and follow a crack to belay in a little niche. H.Herzmann, G.Moss. 4/12/13.

2. Deja Vu. V. Diff. Start as for route 1. Climb up easily to a short inverted vee groove below a thin intermittent crack running up near the L edge of the slab. Make a delicate step up onto the slab (crux) and follow the crack on improving holds. Belay as for route 1. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 9/1/14.

3. New Year Nerves. VS4c. Start as for route 1. Move up and make a steep move to gain a ledge level with the toe of the slab. Make a delicate step out right onto the bottom of the slab and continue delicately up the centre on tiny holds, to reach a thin flake crack sloping up L (small wires or friends useful here). Follow this to the top and belay as for route 1. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 9/1/14.

4. Poldi. Diff. Start as for route 1, 3m below an obvious groove which runs up the R side of the slab. Move up and climb the groove, followed by a short crack, slanting diagonally L to finish up in the little niche as for route 1. H. Herzmann, G. Moss 4/12/13.

[[File:BNMT004ab.jpg|600px|BNMT004ab.jpg]]

5. Grumpy Old Men. VS4b. Start 3m down R of Poldi. at a belay below a shallow corner slanting up R. A difficult start (crux) leads to easier climbing up to a short, steep L-facing corner just L of a narrow, sloping ledge. Steep moves up L to better holds, then slant back across R to the foot of a crack on the L side of a block. Climb the crack and the easy groove above to a thread belay. G. Moss, H. Herzmann, B. Lawless. 5/3/2014

6. Reeling In The Years. HS/VS4b. Start below a short, R-slanting, overhung corner, 2m R of route 5. Climb the corner and move up to the top of the horizontal flake. Make some delicate moves up to gain the ledge below the undercut crack, crux, (a runner here would be of as much for the benefit of the second as for the leader). Continue straight up on small holds (VS4b) or move L to reach better holds and climb the crack on the R side of a block (HS). From the top of the block step out R and climb the slab to a thread belay. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 4/12/13.

[[File:BNMT007abc.jpg|600px|BNMT007abc.jpg]]

7. Tempus Fugit. VS4c. Start 3m R of 6, on a grassy ledge, level with, and just L of, the top of a pointed block. Climb easily up the short slab to the undercut cracks, and move up to the top of a large flake below the upper wall. Step up and make some delicate moves to reach a ledge and the diagonal crack line of The Long Haul. Step L and climb a break in the upper face on small holds. Protection is sparse on the upper section. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 27/11/13.

8. The Good Samaritan. S. Start on a grassy ledge, just down R of a pointed block, below a blunt rib. Climb the centre of the rib to a ledge. Move up steeply, slanting a little R above the cave then back L to finish up through the gap in the skyline to a block belay. H. Herzmann, G. Moss 26/2/14.

'''The vegetated drainage line below the little cave has been looked at, but the rock in the cave's immediate vicinity is poor''' and best avoided.

[[File:BNMT008a.jpg|600px|BNMT008a.jpg]]

9. An Bodach. V.Diff. Start 2m R of The Good Samaritan, at a little furze bush. Climb up and make some delicate moves to reach good holds above the short impending wall (good runner out L). Pull up onto a narrow ledge, step up R and continue up the short, steep slab above on small but good holds to reach a ledge. Climb straight up the short wall above to finish at the block, as for route 8. G. Moss, H. Herzmann B.L. 5/3/14.

10. The Scenic Route. VS4b. A Right to Left rising girdle of the face, following the line of an intermittent, undercut crack. Continuously interesting, it requires steadiness from both leader and second. Start below a short L-slanting corner at the bottom R edge of the face. Move up the corner and step around L below a short impending wall. Traverse delicately L beneath the wall, moving up to a ledge. Step across below the little cave to a block (good nut placements here). Make steep, committing moves up and L on small, but good holds, to gain a ledge and the continuation of the crack. Follow this L., with spaced protection,to reach a crack on the R side of a block. Step out L onto the slab and move L to join up with the finishing moves of New Year Nerves. Belay as for that route in a little niche. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 26/2/14.

11. Low Hanging Fruit. M.Severe. Start around R. and up 2m from the bottom R. edge of the crag, at a block below a deep crack. Climb the crack, which is awkward to start, and continue more easily up to a ledge. Climb straight up via a line of cracks and jammed blocks, to a block belay as for route 8. Large hexes or friends useful. G. Moss 24/2/14.

12. Stocking Filler. V. Diff. Start just R of Route 11, below a short chimney, overhung on the L. Climb the chimney and step out R onto the huge block. From the top of this step across and climb twin cracks on good holds. Scramble up and slightly R to a belay at a little hollow. G. Moss, H. Herzmann 1/4/14

====Billy Goat Buttress====

This buttress is best approached as for Ballynamuddagh S. The buttress can be seen down on the Right from the point where the track swings north after cresting the ridge. 

[[File:bray20 billy goat topo.png]]

[[File:bray12.png]]

'''One more route on page below.'''

====Brandy Hole Buttress====
[[File:bray21 brandy hole topo.png]]

The Cliff Walk was much less busy when these routes were put up than it is now. It is probably not a very comfortable place to climb. While the rock on Brandy Hole Buttress is sound, climbers should be aware that the top of the crag is littered with small rocks and it is difficult not to dislodge some of these onto the path below while setting up belays.

[[File:bray13.png|800px]]

====Ballynamuddagh Buttress Central and North====

[[File:bray22 b na mB topo.png]]

Ballynamuddagh North Buttress. (Note: the tree stump mentioned has become a thriving holly tree over the years and now covers much of both Shriek and Shrike).

Description starts on page above.

[[File:bray14.png|800px]]

====Shelter Buttress & Fiddlers Buttress====

Farrells Rock

[[File:bray23 shelter topo.png]]

[[File:bray15.png|800px]]

====Routes in unsafe areas included for record====

The approach to Shag Slab has been buried beneath the boulders, though it may be possible to hop across these, and the telegraph pole has been cut down.

[[File:bray16 shag slab topo.png]]

[[File:bray3.png]]

[[File:bray17.png]]

[[File:bray4.png]]

[[File:bray5.png]]

[[File:bray18.png]]

[[File:bray6.png]]

[[File:bray7.png|800px]]

[[File:bray19.png|800px]]

[[File:bray8a.png|800px]]

[[File:bray9.png|800px]]

[[File:bray10.png]]

[[File:bray11.png]]

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="53.176839" lon="-6.073975" zoom="18">
53.176427, -6.072943
Pulpit
53.176478, -6.073463
Bracket Slabs
53.179221, -6.074987
Streaky Slab
</googlemap>

====FARRELLS ROCK====
Leave the upper car park for the Cliff Walk and walk along the track until you arrive at the ruin known as Lord Meaths House. Turn sharply right, heading uphill to the obvious crag to the right of your viewpoint. The view of Bray from the base of the crag is worth the small walk.

1. GRÁ MÓ CHROÍ MS 4/5/2018 
Gearóid Ó'Cróinín 10M Solo 
Start at the lowest corner of the crag,under the slight overhang. Climb left out onto the ridge of the crag. Climb straight up and squeeze through the small chimney, before climbing out onto a more open space and topping out. The view from here offers amazing views of Bray and the sea :)

2. FOR THE CRACK VDIFF 4/5/2018 
Géaróid Ó'Cróinín 8M Solo 
Walk about half way around the northern side of the crag, until you come to an obvious crack. There is a slightly grassy area to the right of the climbing route. Start on the medium block. Climb straight up until you top out at the top of the crag.

Knockdrinna

2024-06-28T09:22:38Z

[[File:Knockdrinna.jpg|200px]]

 '''Access restricted: During the bird nesting season, beginning of March until the end of July, climbers are kindly asked not to enter the quarry. Mountaineering Ireland is currently engaging with Kilkenny County Council to agree on access to the quarry going forward. Mountaineering Ireland thanks all climbers for their cooperation and further information will be provided in due course.'''

Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67

The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.
 The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.

[http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=52.499199&lon=-7.2395895&zoom=18&layers=M OpenStreetMap]

The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way. 
 
[[File:Knockdrinna topo 2.jpg]]

'''1. Salt Peanuts''' F7a+ 7m 
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts. 
It looks easy but it's not. 
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004

'''2. Seek and Destroy''' F6a 6m 
Arete.Two bolts.

H. Hennessy 21/2/2010

'''3. Tide's Out''' 4c/5a 6m 
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath. 
N. Eager solo 2003

'''4. West Fork''' F6a+ 6m 
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts 
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5. Boppit Extreme''' F6b+ 6m 
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts 
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right) 
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5(a). breakeven''' F6b+ 6m 
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts. 
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012

'''6. Twayblade''' F6a 6m 
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts. 
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003

'''unknown''' F6a 12m

The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face. (Hanger bolts).

'''Slack in Da System 7a+ 15m'''

The line of glue ins immediately left of 6a crack line. Make an awkward mantel up to under cling rail rising leftwards. Climb series of undercut crimps on this up to the break. Crux is a throw into the break and up to the anchor.

'''stretch armstrong''' 7b 14m

Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.

H. Hennessy 3/10/2021

'''rising tide''' 7b+

The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.
 
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022

'''. Bolt bandits''' F7b 14m 
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half.
 
H Hennessy 26/7/2020

'''7. Hugh's Route''' F7b+ 15m 
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.
 H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010

'''closed project'''

the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted

'''8. Omaha Beach''' F6c+ 15m 
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all]. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004

'''9. Draighean Dubh''' F7c 12m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall. 
Desperate. 
H.Fogg 2/2009

'''10. Fist Full of Steel''' F7a 8m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The left hand crack. Three bolts
H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008

'''11. La Mussara beg''' F6a+ 15m 
G.Fogg 2/2009

'''12. Slimline''' F5+ 15m 
A bit chossy. Four bolts.

H. Hennessy 2/2009

'''13. Otherside''' F6c 15m 
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts

'''14. Gates of Eden''' F6b 15m 
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top. four bolts
H.Hennessy 24/12/2008

''' Wasteland''' F6a+ 12m 
climb the arete on its left hand side.

H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts

'''15. Intoxicated''' F6a 12m 
a bit loose near the top. 
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts

'''The optimist's door''' 6c 12m

Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.

D. Dillon 6/2020

'''forgotten flake''' 6b+ 12m

The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.

H. Hennessy 6/2020

Glenmalure

2024-05-21T06:57:55Z

T: /* GLENMALURE LE BUET */

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.

TODO add a map of the various locations here.

====DWYER'S ROCK====
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.

NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a) Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b) 
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff.

Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.

The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.

Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''

BEE LINE 17m VS (4c) 
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c) 
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line 
J. Lyons, July 1989.

HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b) 
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack. 
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''

EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a) 
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c) 
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge. 
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.

BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a) 
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress. 
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge. 
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back. 
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''

THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b) 
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a) 
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish. 
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.

LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a) 
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height. 
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay. 
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back. 
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''

'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''

ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b) 
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. 
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge. 
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace. 
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.

ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b) 
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree. 
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. 
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace. 
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain 
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top 
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.

The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.

PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c) 
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b) 
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish. 
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.

'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''

GRANISTER 16m S (4a) 
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a) 
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD 
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b) 
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

====GLENMALURE LE BUET====
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 4 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 4 routes have been equipped.

Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W

https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46

From left to right facing the crag:

- FROM THE RIVER 12m 6a+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- LE BUET 12m 6b+

T O'Connell 11/11/2023

- TO THE SEA 15m 6c+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- RIGHT OF RETURN 12m unclimbed 7b?

[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]

 

 
====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH====
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour. 
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.

'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''

FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b) 
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner. 
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right. 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late. 
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully. 
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack 
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground. 
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below. 
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below. 
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this. 
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"

'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''

[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]

Photo: Nick Simons
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b) 
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge. 
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003

FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b) 
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000

THE RAMP 15m VS (4b) 
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish. 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]

NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b) 
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook. 
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above. 
Unknown first accent.

LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b) 
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge. 
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.

THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade) 
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge. 
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013

PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b 
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003

Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b) 
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c) 
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection) 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh

GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b) 
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''

FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b) 
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c) 
Start at a small overhanging recess. 
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c) 
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b) 
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c) 
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b) 
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01

ALIX 20m S (4a) 
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above. 
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.

[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]

'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''

PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b) 
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b) 
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c) 
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a) 
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

RAMBLE 30m HS (4a) 
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges. 
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.

PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c) 
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk. 
Duncan Blom, July 2019.

'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''

WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b) 
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994

LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top. 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a) 
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below. 
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''

WINK** 25m HVS (5a) 
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.

EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b) 
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b) 
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b) 
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux). 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.

HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a) 
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c) 
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''

PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c) 
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views. 
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.

====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''

'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''

ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b) 
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right. 
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay. 
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height 
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.

SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c) 
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face. 
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay. 
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993. 
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''

ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b) 
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block. 
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b) 
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above. 
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.

The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.

ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a) 
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''

SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c) 
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.

ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a) 
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a) 
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees. 
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left. 
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish. 
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.

'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''

FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD 
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b) 
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a) 
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''

ENTERPRISE 100m VD 
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully. 
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.

==Map of locations in Glenmalure==

[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]

Knockdrinna

2024-04-29T10:37:07Z

[[File:Knockdrinna.jpg|200px]]

 '''Access restricted: During the bird nesting season, beginning of March until the end of July, climbers are kindly asked not to enter the quarry. Mountaineering Ireland is currently engaging with Kilkenny County Council to agree on access to the quarry going forward. Mountaineering Ireland thanks all climbers for their cooperation and further information will be provided in due course.'''

Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67

The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.
 The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.

[http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=52.499199&lon=-7.2395895&zoom=18&layers=M OpenStreetMap]

The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way. 
 
[[File:Knockdrinna topo 2.jpg]]

'''1. Salt Peanuts''' F7a+ 7m 
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts. 
It looks easy but it's not. 
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004

'''2. Seek and Destroy''' F6a 6m 
Arete.Two bolts.

H. Hennessy 21/2/2010

'''3. Tide's Out''' 4c/5a 6m 
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath. 
N. Eager solo 2003

'''4. West Fork''' F6a+ 6m 
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts 
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5. Boppit Extreme''' F6b+ 6m 
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts 
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right) 
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5(a). breakeven''' F6b+ 6m 
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts. 
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012

'''6. Twayblade''' F6a 6m 
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts. 
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003

'''unknown''' F6a 12m

The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face. (Hanger bolts).

'''Slack in Da System 7a+ 15m'''

The line of glue ins immediately left of 6a crack line. Make an awkward mantel up to under cling rail rising leftwards. Climb series of undercut crimps on this up to the break. Crux is a throw into the break and up to the anchor.

T.O'Connell 2022

'''stretch armstrong''' 7b 14m

Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.

H. Hennessy 3/10/2021

'''rising tide''' 7b+

The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.
 
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022

'''. Bolt bandits''' F7b 14m 
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half.
 
H Hennessy 26/7/2020

'''7. Hugh's Route''' F7b+ 15m 
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.
 H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010

'''closed project'''

the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted

'''8. Omaha Beach''' F6c+ 15m 
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all]. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004

'''9. Draighean Dubh''' F7c 12m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall. 
Desperate. 
H.Fogg 2/2009

'''10. Fist Full of Steel''' F7a 8m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The left hand crack. Three bolts
H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008

'''11. La Mussara beg''' F6a+ 15m 
G.Fogg 2/2009

'''12. Slimline''' F5+ 15m 
A bit chossy. Four bolts.

H. Hennessy 2/2009

'''13. Otherside''' F6c 15m 
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts

'''14. Gates of Eden''' F6b 15m 
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top. four bolts
H.Hennessy 24/12/2008

''' Wasteland''' F6a+ 12m 
climb the arete on its left hand side.

H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts

'''15. Intoxicated''' F6a 12m 
a bit loose near the top. 
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts

'''The optimist's door''' 6c 12m

Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.

D. Dillon 6/2020

'''forgotten flake''' 6b+ 12m

The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.

H. Hennessy 6/2020

Glenmalure

2023-11-26T10:29:25Z

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.

TODO add a map of the various locations here.

====DWYER'S ROCK====
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.

NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a) Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b) 
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff.

Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.

The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.

Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''

BEE LINE 17m VS (4c) 
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c) 
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line 
J. Lyons, July 1989.

HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b) 
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack. 
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''

EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a) 
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c) 
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge. 
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.

BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a) 
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress. 
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge. 
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back. 
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''

THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b) 
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a) 
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish. 
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.

LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a) 
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height. 
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay. 
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back. 
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''

'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''

ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b) 
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. 
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge. 
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace. 
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.

ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b) 
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree. 
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. 
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace. 
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain 
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top 
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.

The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.

PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c) 
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b) 
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish. 
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.

'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''

GRANISTER 16m S (4a) 
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a) 
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD 
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b) 
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

====GLENMALURE LE BUET====
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped.

Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W

https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46

From left to right facing the crag:

- FROM THE RIVER 12m 6a+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- LE BUET 12m 6b+

T O'Connell 11/11/2023

- TO THE SEA 15m 6c+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- RIGHT OF RETURN 12m unclimbed 7b?

[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]

 

 
====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH====
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour. 
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.

'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''

FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b) 
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner. 
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right. 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late. 
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully. 
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack 
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground. 
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below. 
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below. 
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this. 
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"

'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''

[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]

Photo: Nick Simons
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b) 
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge. 
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003

FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b) 
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000

THE RAMP 15m VS (4b) 
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish. 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]

NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b) 
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook. 
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above. 
Unknown first accent.

LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b) 
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge. 
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.

THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade) 
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge. 
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013

PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b 
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003

Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b) 
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c) 
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection) 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh

GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b) 
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''

FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b) 
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c) 
Start at a small overhanging recess. 
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c) 
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b) 
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c) 
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b) 
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01

ALIX 20m S (4a) 
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above. 
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.

[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]

'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''

PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b) 
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b) 
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c) 
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a) 
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

RAMBLE 30m HS (4a) 
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges. 
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.

PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c) 
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk. 
Duncan Blom, July 2019.

'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''

WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b) 
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994

LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top. 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a) 
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below. 
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''

WINK** 25m HVS (5a) 
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.

EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b) 
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b) 
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b) 
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux). 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.

HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a) 
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c) 
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''

PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c) 
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views. 
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.

====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''

'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''

ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b) 
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right. 
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay. 
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height 
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.

SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c) 
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face. 
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay. 
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993. 
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''

ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b) 
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block. 
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b) 
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above. 
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.

The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.

ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a) 
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''

SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c) 
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.

ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a) 
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a) 
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees. 
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left. 
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish. 
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.

'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''

FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD 
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b) 
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a) 
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''

ENTERPRISE 100m VD 
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully. 
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.

==Map of locations in Glenmalure==

[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]

Glenmalure

2023-11-11T21:52:59Z

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.

TODO add a map of the various locations here.

====DWYER'S ROCK====
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.

NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a) Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b) 
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff.

Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.

The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.

Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''

BEE LINE 17m VS (4c) 
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c) 
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line 
J. Lyons, July 1989.

HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b) 
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack. 
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''

EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a) 
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c) 
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge. 
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.

BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a) 
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress. 
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge. 
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back. 
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''

THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b) 
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a) 
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish. 
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.

LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a) 
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height. 
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay. 
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back. 
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''

'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''

ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b) 
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. 
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge. 
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace. 
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.

ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b) 
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree. 
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. 
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace. 
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain 
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top 
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.

The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.

PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c) 
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b) 
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish. 
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.

'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''

GRANISTER 16m S (4a) 
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a) 
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD 
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b) 
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

====GLENMALURE LE BUET====
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped.

Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W

https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46

From left to right facing the crag:

- FROM THE RIVER 12m 6a+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- LE BUET 12m 6b+

T O'Connell 11/11/2023

- TO THE SEA 15m 6c+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]

 

 
====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH====
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour. 
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.

'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''

FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b) 
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner. 
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right. 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late. 
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully. 
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack 
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground. 
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below. 
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below. 
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this. 
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"

'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''

[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]

Photo: Nick Simons
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b) 
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge. 
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003

FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b) 
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000

THE RAMP 15m VS (4b) 
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish. 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]

NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b) 
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook. 
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above. 
Unknown first accent.

LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b) 
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge. 
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.

THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade) 
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge. 
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013

PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b 
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003

Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b) 
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c) 
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection) 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh

GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b) 
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''

FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b) 
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c) 
Start at a small overhanging recess. 
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c) 
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b) 
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c) 
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b) 
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01

ALIX 20m S (4a) 
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above. 
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.

[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]

'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''

PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b) 
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b) 
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c) 
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a) 
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

RAMBLE 30m HS (4a) 
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges. 
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.

PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c) 
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk. 
Duncan Blom, July 2019.

'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''

WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b) 
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994

LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top. 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a) 
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below. 
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''

WINK** 25m HVS (5a) 
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.

EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b) 
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b) 
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b) 
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux). 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.

HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a) 
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c) 
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''

PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c) 
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views. 
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.

====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''

'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''

ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b) 
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right. 
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay. 
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height 
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.

SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c) 
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face. 
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay. 
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993. 
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''

ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b) 
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block. 
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b) 
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above. 
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.

The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.

ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a) 
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''

SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c) 
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.

ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a) 
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a) 
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees. 
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left. 
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish. 
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.

'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''

FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD 
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b) 
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a) 
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''

ENTERPRISE 100m VD 
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully. 
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.

==Map of locations in Glenmalure==

[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]

Glenmalure

2023-11-11T21:52:25Z

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.

TODO add a map of the various locations here.

====DWYER'S ROCK====
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.

NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a) Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b) 
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff.

Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.

The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.

Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''

BEE LINE 17m VS (4c) 
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c) 
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line 
J. Lyons, July 1989.

HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b) 
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack. 
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''

EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a) 
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c) 
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge. 
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.

BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a) 
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress. 
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge. 
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back. 
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''

THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b) 
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a) 
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish. 
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.

LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a) 
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height. 
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay. 
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back. 
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''

'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''

ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b) 
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. 
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge. 
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace. 
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.

ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b) 
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree. 
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. 
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace. 
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain 
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top 
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.

The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.

PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c) 
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b) 
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish. 
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.

'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''

GRANISTER 16m S (4a) 
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a) 
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD 
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b) 
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

====GLENMALURE LE BUET====
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped.

Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W

https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46

From left to right facing the crag:

- FROM THE RIVER 12m 6a+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

- LE BUET 12m 6b+

T O'Connell 11/11/2023

- TO THE SEA 6c+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]

 

 
====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH====
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour. 
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.

'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''

FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b) 
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner. 
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right. 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late. 
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully. 
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack 
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground. 
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below. 
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below. 
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this. 
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"

'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''

[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]

Photo: Nick Simons
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b) 
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge. 
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003

FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b) 
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000

THE RAMP 15m VS (4b) 
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish. 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]

NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b) 
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook. 
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above. 
Unknown first accent.

LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b) 
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge. 
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.

THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade) 
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge. 
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013

PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b 
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003

Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b) 
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c) 
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection) 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh

GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b) 
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''

FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b) 
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c) 
Start at a small overhanging recess. 
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c) 
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b) 
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c) 
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b) 
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01

ALIX 20m S (4a) 
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above. 
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.

[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]

'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''

PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b) 
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b) 
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c) 
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a) 
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

RAMBLE 30m HS (4a) 
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges. 
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.

PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c) 
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk. 
Duncan Blom, July 2019.

'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''

WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b) 
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994

LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top. 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a) 
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below. 
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''

WINK** 25m HVS (5a) 
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.

EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b) 
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b) 
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b) 
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux). 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.

HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a) 
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c) 
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''

PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c) 
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views. 
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.

====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''

'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''

ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b) 
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right. 
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay. 
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height 
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.

SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c) 
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face. 
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay. 
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993. 
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''

ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b) 
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block. 
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b) 
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above. 
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.

The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.

ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a) 
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''

SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c) 
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.

ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a) 
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a) 
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees. 
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left. 
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish. 
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.

'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''

FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD 
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b) 
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a) 
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''

ENTERPRISE 100m VD 
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully. 
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.

==Map of locations in Glenmalure==

[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]

Glenmalure

2023-11-11T21:51:02Z

T: /* GLENMALURE LE BUET */

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]

There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.

TODO add a map of the various locations here.

====DWYER'S ROCK====
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.

NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a) Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b) 
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top. P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.

====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff.

Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.

The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.

Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''

BEE LINE 17m VS (4c) 
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c) 
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line 
J. Lyons, July 1989.

HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b) 
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack. 
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''

EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a) 
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c) 
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge. 
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.

BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a) 
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress. 
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge. 
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back. 
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''

THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b) 
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.

NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a) 
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish. 
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.

LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a) 
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height. 
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay. 
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back. 
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.

'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''

'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''

ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b) 
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. 
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge. 
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace. 
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.

ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b) 
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree. 
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. 
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace. 
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain 
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top 
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.

The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.

PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c) 
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b) 
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish. 
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.

'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''

GRANISTER 16m S (4a) 
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a) 
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête. 
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.

SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD 
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b) 
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish. 
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.

====GLENMALURE LE BUET====
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped.

Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W

https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46

From left to right facing the crag:

FROM THE RIVER 12m 6a+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

LE BUET 12m 6b+

T O'Connell 11/11/2023

TO THE SEA 6c+

R Duggan 11/11/2023

[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]

 
 

 
====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH====
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour. 
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.

'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''

'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''

FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b) 
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner. 
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right. 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a) 
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late. 
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully. 
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack 
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground. 
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below. 
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below. 
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this. 
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"

'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''

[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]

Photo: Nick Simons
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b) 
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge. 
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003

FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b) 
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000

THE RAMP 15m VS (4b) 
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish. 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]

NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b) 
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook. 
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above. 
Unknown first accent.

LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b) 
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge. 
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.

THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade) 
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge. 
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013

PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b 
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003

Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b) 
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c) 
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection) 
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh

GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b) 
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face. 
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003

'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''

FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b) 
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c) 
Start at a small overhanging recess. 
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c) 
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b) 
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c) 
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003

REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b) 
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01

ALIX 20m S (4a) 
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above. 
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.

[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]

'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''

PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b) 
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b) 
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c) 
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a) 
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.

RAMBLE 30m HS (4a) 
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges. 
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.

PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c) 
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk. 
Duncan Blom, July 2019.

'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''

WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b) 
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks. 
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994

LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top. 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c) 
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack 
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.

OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a) 
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below. 
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack 
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.

'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''

WINK** 25m HVS (5a) 
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there. 
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.

EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b) 
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks. 
Duncan Law, June 2019.

TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b) 
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b) 
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux). 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.

HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a) 
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c) 
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish. 
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.

'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''

PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c) 
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views. 
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.

====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''

'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''

ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b) 
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right. 
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay. 
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height 
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.

SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c) 
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face. 
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay. 
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993. 
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''

ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b) 
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block. 
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b) 
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above. 
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.

The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.

ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c) 
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a) 
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''

SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c) 
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.

ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c) 
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above. 
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.

DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a) 
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top. 
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.

GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a) 
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees. 
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left. 
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish. 
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.

'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''

FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD 
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b) 
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one. 
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.

FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a) 
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney. 
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.

'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''

ENTERPRISE 100m VD 
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully. 
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.

==Map of locations in Glenmalure==

[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]

Knockdrinna

2022-07-24T08:12:02Z

T: New route at Knockdrinna

[[File:Knockdrinna.jpg|200px]] 

Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67

The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.
 The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.

[http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=52.499199&lon=-7.2395895&zoom=18&layers=M OpenStreetMap]

The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way. 
 
[[File:Knockdrinna topo 2.jpg]]

'''1. Salt Peanuts''' F7a+ 7m 
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts. 
It looks easy but it's not. 
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004

'''2. Seek and Destroy''' F6a 6m 
Arete.Two bolts.

H. Hennessy 21/2/2010

'''3. Tide's Out''' 4c/5a 6m 
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath. 
N. Eager solo 2003

'''4. West Fork''' F6a+ 6m 
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts 
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5. Boppit Extreme''' F6b+ 6m 
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts 
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right) 
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004

'''5(a). breakeven''' F6b+ 6m 
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts. 
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012

'''6. Twayblade''' F6a 6m 
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts. 
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003

'''unknown''' F6a 12m

The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face.

'''Slack in Da System''' 7a 15m

The line between Unknown and Stretch Armstrong. Follow ledges up to the undercling rail. Move leftwards up this using smeary edges for your feet. Shares the same halfmoon jug as Stretch. Big move off this into the break.

T. O'Connell 23/07/2022

'''stretch armstrong''' 7b 14m

Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.

H. Hennessy 3/10/2021

'''rising tide''' 7b+

The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.
 
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022

'''. Bolt bandits''' F7b 14m 
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half.
 
H Hennessy 26/7/2020

'''7. Hugh's Route''' F7b+ 15m 
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.
 H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010

'''closed project'''

the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted

'''8. Omaha Beach''' F6c+ 15m 
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all]. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004

'''9. Draighean Dubh''' F7c 12m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall. 
Desperate. 
H.Fogg 2/2009

'''10. Fist Full of Steel''' F7a 8m '''(route no longer there)''' 
The left hand crack. Three bolts
H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008

'''11. La Mussara beg''' F6a+ 15m 
G.Fogg 2/2009

'''12. Slimline''' F5+ 15m 
A bit chossy. Four bolts.

H. Hennessy 2/2009

'''13. Otherside''' F6c 15m 
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts

'''14. Gates of Eden''' F6b 15m 
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top. four bolts
H.Hennessy 24/12/2008

''' Wasteland''' F6a+ 12m 
climb the arete on its left hand side.

H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts

'''15. Intoxicated''' F6a 12m 
a bit loose near the top. 
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts

'''The optimist's door''' 6c 12m

Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.

D. Dillon 6/2020

'''forgotten flake''' 6b+ 12m

The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.

H. Hennessy 6/2020