Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Knockadoon Head

2022-04-29T13:24:55Z

Superterence: /* Cylinder Slab */

==Introduction==
Grid Ref X 089 695, OS Map 81 Discovery Series, is the western tip of Youghal Bay, and lies 8 km south of Youghal town as the crow flies. The rock is categorized as Gyleen Formation - sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.

Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends in a field in front of an old tower. Cars may be parked just inside the field. Although this is private land there are no access problems at present and, if climbers behave responsibly, this situation should remain unchanged.

[[image:kadaaa.jpeg|600pxl]]

The climbing areas, and the climbs within each area, are described from west to east (left to right, facing in).

There are still a number of areas untouched.

==West End Buttress==

This marks the western limits of the climbing area, approx. 500m westof the tower (about 6 - 8 minutes walk).

Approach. Take the rough cart-track on the right of the entrance to the tower field, ignoring a turn to the right. Just before the track ends in a field leave it at a right-hand bend and follow the narrow path parallel to the coast, passing some tottering pillars (Crumble Corner) at the back of a cove. The path deteriorates as it crosses a rough hollow but improves as it rises again. After about another 150m, at the path's highest point, leave it and go down sharp left towards a small headland containing a large cave. At half to low-tide scramble down over the cave and traverse back east(right facing in) to the foot of the climbs. At full-tide abseil down the corner of Crack of Doon.
===Cave Wall===

'''The Oldest Winger.''' 10m S 
''G. Moss, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 16/08/03'' 
Start 4m west (left) of the cave exit, directly below a small overhang with good undercuts. Climb to the overhang and, using a thin quartz vein above, move left to a flake then back right above the overhang. Move up to a belay.

'''C.F.T.''' 15m D 
''S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss 16/08/03'' 
Traverses the cave from east to West Half-to-low tide. An atmospheric outing on a windy day. Start at the mouth of the cave. Chimney up and out through the back of the cave.

''The following four climbs take the cracks in the wall above right of the cave entrance and leftof the main face.''

'''Exit Left''' 14m. HS 4b 
''G. Moss, P. Britton 16/08/03'' 
An abortive attempt to climb the twin parallel cracks immediately right of the left edge. Climb to a small foothold below the final steepening. Move out left and up to finish. A direct finish would be more fitting, though harder. 
'''Variation''' VS 4c Direct finish.

'''Fran the Man.''' 15m S 
''F. Kenny , S. O Hanlon 16/08/03'' 
The deep cracks to the right of above.

'''Dungarvan''' 14m S 
''D. Broderick, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 16/08/03'' 
The red cracks just right of Fran.

'''Crack of Doon''' 16m S 
''G. Moss, P. Britton, 16/08/03'' 
The crack in the corner between Cave Wall and West End Wall. 
[[File:Crackofdoon.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|800x800px|Crack of Doon]]
'''West End Wall.'''

The wall at right-angles to Cave Wall Cracks.

'''Up and Doon.''' 17 m HVS 5a 
''G. Moss L. Convery 26/5/04'' 
The thin crack just right of Crack of Doon and left of the inverted v-notch gives good, fingery climbing.

'''No Toll,''' 17m VS 4c 
''C. Ennis, J. Kinsella, 16/08/03'' 
Start about 3m right of Crack of Doon. An inverted v-notch leads to a vertical crack on it's right, which is gained by bridging moves. Sustained climbing.

'''Iced Log''' 20m HVS 5a 
''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03'' 
The thin finger crack in the right facing corner that runs up the centre of the wall.

'''Gold n Topsy.''' 22m HS (Now HVS 5a) 
''P. Britton, G. Moss, 16/08/03'' 
Start 3m left of the right end of the wall. Climb the crack then traverse rightwards and climb the face near the outside corner. Finish up the top 3m vertical crack.
'''''(Notes of 22 Jul 2010 by P.Britton: This climb is now harder following the loss of some rock off the outside corner below the upper crack. The grade is now HVS 5a)'''''

'''Flight Control''' 20m HVS 5a 
''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03'' 
Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy.
[[File:Kad10.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|786x786px|Flight Control]]

===Fulmar Wall===

Approach as for West-end Buttress as far as the rough hollow. Continue along the path for a short distance, then scramble down gentle slabs and ledges just west of Three Tier Slab (see below), and traverse around west to the foot of the wall, right of the narrow cave mentioned above. It is also possible, at low tide, to approach this area from the foot of West-end Buttress, by hopping across the channel at the mouth of the narrow cave.

Note. As the ledges on this wall provide nesting sites for fulmars during May, June and July, it should be avoided during these months.

'''Topsail''' S 
''L. Convery, G.Moss 6/11/04'' 
Start about 5m right of the narrow cave, on a good ledge above the high-water mark, below a right-facing, overhanging corner on the left side of the slab above the wall. Climb up over ledges to the foot of the corner. Move up this on flakes and climb the slab via the corner crack, laybacking or bridging as preferred. Good protection.

'''Prophet of Doon.''' 35m. VS 4C 
''G. Moss L. Convery 27/3/04'' 
Varied climbing, with a well protected crux. Start about 10m right of Flight Control and the narrow cave, on a good ledge above the high-water mark and directly below a 3m flake that forms a right-facing crack near the top of the wall. Climb easily to the crack and up this to the top of the flake. Make a difficult mantelshelf onto the horizontal crack above (crux) A delicate step up onto the slab is followed by a short, delicate traverse right to gain a thin crack. Follow this (small wires), to the top.

'''Lifted Her Petticoat.''' 25m. HS 
''L.Convery. G.Moss 23/9/03'' 
Start 20m right of Narrow Cave and 5m left of the left-hand end of Mid-week Wall, below a series of flakes leading up left into an overhanging, right-facing corner. Climb easily to the corner, move up, then, (this is the easy and slow bit) make a delicate rising traverse up right using undercuts . Belay well back.
===Mid-week Wall===

About 25m east of the narrow cave there is a grey, bulging wall, with some white quartzite streaks and four parallel, vertical cracks. Approach as for Fulmar Wall.

'''Doonesbury.''' 20m. HS 
''G. Moss L. Convery 23/9/03'' 
Start near the left end of the wall, below a thin crack that runs up to a short left facing corner/crack about 3m above. A couple of thin moves lead to a good hold and a mantelshelf below the corner. Climb the corner and move up slightly left to a higher, shallow, left facing corner with a thin crack. Up this to finish. 
[[File:Mww1.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|785x785px|Doonesbury]]
'''People Before Prophet.''' HVS 5a 
''G. Moss L. Convery 28/8/04'' 
Hand-jamming on perfect rock, friends useful. Start about 5m right of Doonesbury, below the widest of the cracks. Climb the crack.

'''In Memory of Seals''' HVS 5b 
''C. Ennis. J. Kinsella. P. Britton 8/11/04'' 
Takes the short vertical crack to the right of People Before Prophet. Some thin moves after a difficult finger jam at mid-height are followed by better holds and a relieving finish.

'''Sore Fingers''' 10m HVS 5a 
''F. Adam, C. O Donovan, 7/8/2005.'' 
Start 2m right of People Before Prophet and climb the obvious small crack. A succession of fairly painful finger jams eventually get you up and out of trouble. A couple of small friends and wire nuts help a lot.

==3 Tier Slab==

About 30m east (right) of Mid-week Wall, and just west of Twin Coves, there is a steep wall capped by three bands of curved slabs. Approach as for West-end Buttress. Follow the path past Crumble Corner and the hollow and go down left until above the slabs. It is possible to scramble down on either side of the slabs.

'''Sinister Crack.''' 18m. D 
''L. Convery G. Moss 23/9/03'' 
Climb the crack running up the left side of the slab.

'''A. Never on a Sunday.''' 18m VS 5a 
''G. Moss L. Convery 23/9/03'' 
Climb the thin central crack.

'''B. Redshanks.''' 15m. D 
''L. Convery G. Moss 25/10/03'' 
Climb the curving cracks on the left-facing wall.

'''C. Choughed.''' 15m. S 
''G. Moss L. Convery 23/9/03''

Immediately right of Three Tier Slab is a steep slab capped by a small triangular shaped wall. Start on a ledge at high-water mark below the centre of the slab. Climb on small holds to a good ledge. Continue up the face on generous holds.
[[File:3tsa.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|A - Never on a Sunday. B - Redshanks. C - Choughed. D = Escape from Hades.]]

'''3 Tier Slab''' A - Never on a Sunday. B - Redshanks. C - Choughed. D = Escape from Hades.

'''Christian Brother?.''' 12m. D 
''L. Convery G. Moss 23/9/03'' 
Start 2m right of Choughed. Move right and climb diagonally right to the top.

'''D. Escape from Hades''' 15m. S. 
''J. Reville, G. Moss Aug. 2010.'' 
This climb takes the narrow chimney on the L side of the buttress immediately R of 3 Tier Slab.
Abseil to the foot of the chimney. Climb the chimney and move left onto the slab. Continue up over the overlap to a block belay. 

==Sunday Slab==

At the tip of the promontory dividing the Twin Coves. Approach as for West-end buttress. Shortly after passing the tottering pillars (Crumble Corner) go down the headland between the two coves to the top of a fine little slab above the sea. This is Sunday Slab. The slab has a large block at it's base and a crack running up it's center.

The first route is about 10m to the west (left facing in) of this slab and takes a crackline up the center of an orange slab which is undercut at the base.

'''On Yer Bike.''' 14m S 
''S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss. 17/08/03'' 
Start at the high-water mark below the crack. Move up and climb the crack which is hard to start.
[[File:Oyb1.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|783x783px|On Yer Bike]]
'''Black Ramp Crack.''' 13m HS 4a 
''F. Kenny, S. O Hanlon, G. Moss. 17/08/03'' 
Start at the block at the foot of Sunday Slab. Climb to the shoulder near the bottom of the left edge of the slab and step around and down left to gain the narrow black ramp. Climb this, using the crack above and the edge of the slab, to where the ramp narrows. Move around left then pull up to gain the top of the slab.

The following three routes climb Sunday Slab.

'''Port.''' 10m VD 
''G. Moss, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 17/08/03'' 
The left edge.

'''Mid-Ships''' 10m D. 
''G. Moss, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 17/08/03'' 
The fine center crack.

'''Starboard''' 10m D. 
''F. Kenny, S. O Hanlon, G. Moss. 17/08/03'' 
The thin crack just inside the right edge.

==Sea-Stack Cove==

The cove to the east of Twin Coves easily identifiable by the sea-stack.

Approach. From a grassy hollow above the back of the cove scramble down carefully west (right facing out), over grass initially, to reach easy slabs and, finally, good ledges above the high water mark. Move back east on these until below a yellow corner with a continuous crack up the centre. This is the line of Triple Crown.

'''Allez France!.''' 13m VD 
''G. Moss L. Convery 28/3/04'' 
Start beneath the corner crack. Climb diagonally left up a slab to the foot of a ramp sloping up right. Climb the ramp and exit left via a crack. Block belay 3m back.

'''Triple Crown.''' 13m S 
''L. Convery G. Moss 28/3/04'' 
Start below the crack, which is climbed to the top. Belay as for Le Cocq.

'''Grand Slam.''' 14m S 
''G. Moss L. Convery 28/3/04'' 
Start as for Triple Crown. Climb right-wards over a grey step and move up steeply over a second step. Move back left to finish just right of the top of Triple Crown.

'''Flat-topped Aiguille.''' 15m. VD 
''L. Convery G. Moss 27/3/04'' 
This route follows the arete on the landward side of the sea-stack. Approach (low tide only) as far as the base of Triple Crown, then descend ledges and cross to the boulders at the foot of the arete. Gain the arete via a short chimney and follow it to the top. Descend by reversing the route.
==Cylinder Cove==

This area lies a little west of the Tower. From the Tower follow the field boundary running down towards the sea, to where it ends at the top of a cove ( Boundary Cove). Traverse west passing above another cove (Boulder Cove) and go down to where an obvious cylindrical band of rock caps a short, wide and steep slab. This is Cylinder Slab. or maybe Roly Poly Slab.

===Cylinder Slab===
[[File:Knockdoon Rolly Poly crag Topo 1.jpg|thumb]]
A lot of activity has seen the creation of five new relatively short routes and some boulder problems on this sheltered slab of rock. It is close to the parking area/main tower; to get to it, heading straight down towards the sea, pass the tower and the small concrete lookout building. Follow the path down to where it peters out. Swing right. Over an old small earth bank/wall go left. The ground steepens. Veer downwards, right and voila, if you have not fallen off the cliff backing the cove, you will have wandered correctly onto the top of the Cylinder or Rolly Poly slab. The climbs are not readily discernable from above. The slab is faced by a smaller slab. These two combine to give an overall V shape. All the climbs start from where these two slabs meet.

All the climbs have been done on lead to verify the grade. See the photographs Topo 1 & Topo 2 above.

As you look at the slab. Starting on the far left and highest section:
[[File:Knockadoon Rolly Poly Topo 2..jpg|thumb]]
'''Half Banked'''. S, 10m. 
''Alan O’ Shea & Kevin Ring, Summer 2006.'' 
Two metres from LHS edge of the slab. Starting under the slightly broken-up overlap. From the bottom of the V (to squeeze out maximum climbing), easy and enjoyable moves on big crimps and edges to the overlap. Crux. Gear beneath overlap. Step up and over.

'''Savàiste Cabàiste'''. HS, 9m. 
''Alan O’ Shea & Kevin Ring, Summer 2006.'' 
Thin crack two metres right of Half Banked. The grade is dictated by the sparse gear. Enjoyable climbing up the slab. Stepping over the small, multi-layered, overlap is the crux. Easier and more positive than it looks. No big jugs but all the grips are there.

'''Dig Your Own Hole'''. VS, 8m. 
''Alan O’ Shea & Kevin Ring, Summer 2006.'' 
Start at/in the big obvious rectangular cut away cleft. Climb out of this and up to the overlap. The crack appears much more pleasant than it is. No points for guessing where the crux moves are. Sorting out gear for the following crux moves leaves one a little unsure. Once above scamper to the top.

'''Planet of the Scrapes'''. HVS 5a, 8m. 
''Kevin Ring, Summer 2006.'' 
Right of Dig Your Own Hole, obvious crack through the overlap. Another fine crack with the inevitable crux at the overlap. Easy climbing to the overlap. Gear along the way, some “sweet” but not exactly sign posted. The obvious big cut out foothold can be comforting. Climbing through and above the overlap is somewhat strenuous and committing. White Quartz holds and a finger tip crack are the plat de jour on the crux. A long reach for a jug-hold from the climbing Gods. And then you are up. Shaking and laughing.

'''MFA Cave & Roof'''. E1/5b, 8m. 
''Terence J. Hoare Alan O’Shea, March 2007.'' 
An obvious feature of the slab is the 2 metre wide, one metre deep cave. Essentially follow the right hand side crack through the cave roof and the overlap above this. Starting at the back of the cave, climb up through the roof and onto the small face above. Protectable but strenuous climbing. From this squatting position place the gear (possible nut and cam) to protect the step-up moves to the crux, which is climbing over and up from the next big overlap. Committing, pumpy and sustained, this is a gem of a climb with, if it is of any comfort, a bomber belay at the top.

'''The Rolly Poly Boulder Problems'''. 
Further right there are four boulder problems, probably going at 4b up to 5a. They tackle the weaknesses in the overlap. Which at the middle-right end of the slab, sticks out about .5m and is no more than 2-3m high. The 4b problem is the biggest crack with the big jugs and an arm-jam. Flanking this problem on either side there are two other problems. These rely on quartz finger holds and stretchy step ups. Enjoyable tests of ones bouldering mettle. The fourth is a bit of a highball problem. This problem lies about 2m left of the 4b problem (looking at it). More fingery stuff above the overlap. A long committing reach is required to reach the top and the subsequent respect.

'''The AK Traverse'''.
This starts at the left end of the slab and works up to the overlap. Basically follow under the overlap rightwards all the way along. Dissecting each of the described climbs and problems. One for a quiet day with no one else around to get in your traversing way. Soloed by the AK-Stretchmasters (Alan O Shea & Kevin Ring) in that Indian summer of 2006.

''Below Cylinder Slab there are four slabs. These are described from west to E, (left to right facing in).''

''A. Easy Slab. Below the west end of Cylinder Slab. An easy scramble down this short slab provides access to a ledge system (uncovered for fours hours either side of low tide) leading to the following two slabs.''

''B. Cleft Slab. The next slab to the right. (Easily identified by the half-meter wide cleft splitting the slab from top to bottom).''

'''Serrated Flakes.''' VD 
''L. Convery G. Moss 15/6/03'' 
Climbs the right facing corner to the left of the cleft, using a series of small flakes and the crack. 

[[file:k.a.d.nov10 022a.jpg|500px]]

'''AOS Slab Route''' 6m VS 
''Terence Hoare'' 
A gearless solo. Truly wonderful on tinies and friction at just the right angle, although it does steepen in the middle. A great route.

'''Cleft Right.''' S 
''G. Moss L. Convery 15/6/03'' 
Climbs the right edge of the cleft. Poor protection.

''Two gearless eliminate routes squeezed on to the blank slab between Cleft Right and W.M.D worth recording.''
(These may have been climbed before)

'''1.Moonwalk.''' (HS). ''M Donnelly, April/2011'' Start 1m right of 'Cleft right' on a large block at the base of the slab. Climb
delicately up the slab trending rightward after 2/3 height to a break. Finish up the slab above.

'''2.To boldly go''' (VS). Start below the block at its right end. Move delicately straight
up the slab trending left at 2/3 height to a break. Finish up the slab above. P Kelly, April/2011

'''W.M.D.''' VS 4b 
''G. Moss L. Convery 15/6/03'' 
Start below two thin parallel cracks near the right edge of the slab. Climb the right-hand crack then the left crack to where it ends. Delicate moves right gain the edge which is followed to a break. Climb the final section on small holds. Sparse protection.

'''W.M.D. Direct ''' VS 4c 
Climb to the end of the left hand crack and move directly and delicately upwards using two small quartz veins. finish as for above.
(This may have been done before, M. Donnelly April/11)

'''C. Starfish Slab. The next slab to the right.'''

'''Eureka.''' D. 
''L. Convery G. Moss15/6/03'' 
Climb the right facing corner on the left edge of the slab.

'''The Milky Way.''' HS 4a 
''G. Moss M. Casey, J. Reville 6/11/10'' 
Start as for Eureka, at the foot of the corner. Move up and traverse R along a narrow footledge to the centre of the slab. Climb straight up, following vague cracks, with widely spaced protection.

'''Star Wars.''' HS. 4a 
''G. Moss L. Convery 26/10/03'' 
Start 2m right of the corner. Climb diagonally right to gain the right edge of the slab. Follow this over a slight bulge to a break and runner. Continue up the edge to finish. 

[[file:k.a.d.nov10 010a.jpg|500px]]

'''D. Narrow Slab. The next slab to the right. Access is by abseil.'''

'''Thanks, Dave.''' D. 
''L. Convery G. Moss 15/6/03'' 
The right facing corner on the left edge of the slab.

==Tower Slabs==
==='''Tower Slab West'''===

Follow the field boundary below the Tower to where it ends above a large cove (Boundary Cove). Tower Slab West is the slab immediately east of the cove (left facing out). Abseil down the centre of the slab to a ledge with a short wall behind it (about 23m).

The following four routes all start from this ledge.

'''Snap Apple.''' 30m S 
G. Moss L. Convery 26/10/03 
Climb diagonally left to gain a short black corner on the left edge of the slab.. From the top of the corner follow the edge over a small overhang to a stance. Step down left to gain the foot of a narrow subsidiary slab and climb this near it's left edge to a crack on the right. Pull over a block to finish.

[[file:sn1.jpg|600px]]

'''Snap Apple'''

'''Agag.''' 25m. S 
''L. Convery G. Moss 26/10/03'' 
Takes the thin crack about 1.5m right of the wide crack splitting the slab. Follow the crack to where it fades below a small overlap. Step up left to reach an edge (crux) and continue directly to the top.

'''Pinkie.''' 25m. HS 
''P.Britton, L. Convery G. Moss 25/10/03'' 
Start 2m in from the right edge below a thin crack. Follow the crack delicately to the overlap. Surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.

'''Trick or Treat.''' 25m. VD. 
''G. Moss L. Convery P.B. 25/10/03.'' 
Start as for Pinkie. Climb diagonally right to the edge and follow this to the top. Poor protection.

''The foot of the next route, which is on a lower, subsidiary slab, is reached by scrambling on down from the ledge at the foot of the main slab.''

'''White Horses''' 10m. D. 
''L. Convery G. Moss 25/10/03'' 
Climb the centre crack. Scramble off right.

==='''Tower Slab east'''===

From the top of Tower Slab west move east (left facing out), passing the head of a narrow inlet and scramble down over easy slabs, moving back west to the base of the long slab bordering the inlet.

[[file:assumea.jpg|600px]]

'''A = Cúinne Murchadh. B = Assume The Position.'''

'''Assume the position.''' 25m S 
''G. Moss L. Convery 24/9/03'' 
Start from a ledge at the bottom of the slab (half to low tide only). Climb left to gain the left edge and follow this, in an airy position, to where the inlet ends. Continue up the wide crack .

'''Cinne Murchadh.''' 25m. S 
''L. Convery G. Moss 24/9/03.'' 
Start as for above. Climb the left facing corner to where the crack widens and the angle eases, at about 18m. Move up and right through a break in the wall on the right and climb the slab and corner to the top.

===Broad Slab===

The slab 15m east (left facing out) of Tower Slabs.
[[File:Kadslaba.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|600x600px|A = At Swim Two Birds. B = Ó Bhun go Barr.]]
'''At Swim Two Birds.''' 25m. VS 4b. 
''G. Moss L. Convery 14/6/03'' 
Climb the long diagonal crack on the right facing sidewall overlooking the left side of Broad Slab.

''' Ó Bhun go Barr.''' 35m M 
''L. Convery G. Moss 14/6/03'' 
The long crackline up the center of Broad Slab.

The following two climbs are further east, full details later.

'''Black Wall Chimney.''' 15m. S. 
''G. Moss L. Convery 14/6/03'' 
Climb the chimney at the right hand end of Black Wall.

'''Slab & Overhang.''' 15m. VD 
''G. Moss L. Convery 14/6/03'' 
To the right of Black Wall. Climb a slab to the foot of a short overhang on the right. Over this on good holds.

==Topos by Gerry Moss==

[[Image: KADmap1.JPG]]

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[[Image: KADmap2.JPG]]

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[[Image: KADmap3.JPG]]

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[[Image: KADmap5.JPG]]

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[[Image: KADmap6.JPG]]

Topo 1: [[File:Knockadoon_Topo1.pdf|link=Special:FilePath/Knockadoon_Topo1.pdf]]

Topo 2: [[File:Knockadoon_Topo2.pdf|link=Special:FilePath/Knockadoon_Topo2.pdf]]

NOTE:

Knockadoon is a nice place to climb with easy access. The climbs however are rather short in places, especially the Sunday slabs which if were two or three times longer would be out of this world, and they are a lot easier than they appear. It does nicely for one day's climbing and you could climb at Ardmore the second day which is across the bay.

[[File:Exampleth234.jpg|500px]]

[[File:Examplesdf5.jpg|500px]]

Tim O'Connell

File:Knockadoon Rolly Poly Topo 2..jpg

2022-04-29T13:22:57Z

Superterence:

T. Hoare

File:Knockdoon Rolly Poly crag Topo 1.jpg

2022-04-29T13:20:45Z

Superterence:

T. Hoare

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:36:43Z

Superterence: Added climbers.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==
[[File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg|thumb|The Lower Wall. Red; The Ballycotton Arete. Green; Mozzies & Dolphin.]]
The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5a''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledges and the leaning wall on the left and go up to obvious crack to finish. Grade to be confirmed. Terence J. Hoare & Dom O Calaghan 2007.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed. Terence J. Hoare & Kevin Ring 2007.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:35:07Z

Superterence: left for right.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==
[[File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg|thumb|The Lower Wall. Red; The Ballycotton Arete. Green; Mozzies & Dolphin.]]
The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5a''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledges and the leaning wall on the left and go up to obvious crack to finish. Grade to be confirmed.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:33:10Z

Superterence: Small edit.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==
[[File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg|thumb|The Lower Wall. Red; The Ballycotton Arete. Green; Mozzies & Dolphin.]]
The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5a''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and the leaning wall on the right and go up to obvious crack to finish. Grade to be confirmed.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:32:22Z

Superterence: Edited the text of the picture.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==
[[File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg|thumb|The Lower Wall.Red; The Ballycotton Arete. Green; Mozzies & Dolphin.]]
The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5a''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and the leaning wall on the right and go up to obvious crack to finish. Grade to be confirmed.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:31:05Z

Superterence: Added a photo with a legend to show the line of two routes. Also updated the text a little to reflect the climbs.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==
[[File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg|thumb|Red; The Ballycotton Arete. yellow; mozzies & Dolphin.]]
The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5a''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and the leaning wall on the right and go up to obvious crack to finish. Grade to be confirmed.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2022-04-28T17:22:46Z

Superterence: The route description describes the route as to the left of La premier....but it is actually to the right.

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just right of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

File:Ballycotton Arete & Mozzies and Dolphin..jpg

2022-04-25T13:05:51Z

Superterence:

First ascent T. Hoare and Tristan Grey..