Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Mahon Valley

2025-08-26T17:21:09Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:Mahon Valley, VIEW from CAR PARK.png|center|thumb|Mahon Valley, VIEW from CAR PARK]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R., 24.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

File:Mahon Valley, VIEW from CAR PARK.png

2025-08-26T17:19:45Z

Marzena:

Mahon Valley, VIEW from CAR PARK

Mahon Valley

2025-08-26T17:19:02Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R., 24.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Oughtdarra

2025-08-25T13:50:08Z

Marzena:

==Introduction==

The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern, solid footwear and a walking pole are also recommended. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]] 
[[File:End wall OV.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
==End Wall==
An off vertical 8m wall/slab of rock 200m North and Left of Gale Buttress.[[File:End wall.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 '''SAHARA BOYS''' VS 4c

''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th August 2022.''
Climb the cracked left hand edge of the slab. [[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px|]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.

==Gale Buttress==
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress the West facing escarpment rises to form a steep buttress above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.

Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]

'''ISOBAR''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

==Northern Buttress==
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall starts facing West but faces South after the Stone wall, descriptions run West to East or left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 2m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Right of the dry stone wall climb the offwidth crack using wide bridging and deterrmined technique, hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m S ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up wide crack in left-hand wall to awkwardly surmount sloping ledge (crux) climb up short wall and blocky ridge to finish.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the gully.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a small ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''Karl Sloan, Enda Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully and behind the large boulder there are two left facing corners at ground level.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m S ''Karl Sloan, Liam Calnan, Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up a well protected left facing corner (crux) stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015. ''After climbung initial left facing corner finish directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007.'' Slightly right of the second corner there is a ramp'','' follow this pleasant cracked ramp to a ledge and finish via an awkward short corner to the top.
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next 3 routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the gully, climb a superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Right of Arnhem follow the ramp system to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
 
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further East and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces West.
[[File:V2.jpg|center|thumb|900x900px]]
 
==Builders Buttress==
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces West and runs North to South, with routes going left to right or Southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further Right/South there is Goat Buttress.

==Goat Buttress==
[[File:Goat Buttress 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

'''YOU'RE KIDDING ME?''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall between the loose chute and '''ACTING THE GOAT''' to the ledge, finish directly up the crack.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''4m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 20m further Right/South there is Goat Slab.

==Goat Slab==
[[File:GS.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''GOATS DON'T SHAVE''' (1) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

Climb the thin crack line to the terrace, finish up a crack.

'''GOATS FOR THE HARD ROAD''' (2) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.

'''WALK OF SHAME''' (3) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''

Climb the crack to the terrace, finish up the cracked wall.

'''DIRTY STOP OUT''' (4) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''

Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.

About 10m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==
[[File:Canyon.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 11m VD ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
[[File:Central_Area_Right_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.
[[File:FB central.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''80's RACK''' HS

''David Atkinson, Barry Watts, 6th July 2024.''

15m right of '''MATCHMAKER''' there is a left facing groove/shallow corner, Climb to the ledge, place protection in the wide crack and climb steeply up the wall 1m to the right.

In the next alcove there is

'''BANNER JOY''' VD

''Barry Watts, Cohen Ambrose, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''

Climb the groove/shallow corner on the left.

'''DAL gCAIS''' S

''Barry Watts, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''

Climb the groove/shallow corner on the right.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m Right/East of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard going at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

===Crumlin Wall===
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]

'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' 8m Mild Severe

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''

Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.

'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' 8m Diff

''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022.''

Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.

'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' 8m Mod

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''

For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' 20m HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.

'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024. ''Climb the fist crack, merging with the finish of Violent Love.
[[File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg|alt=Let's go crackers 2024|center|thumb|Let's go crackers 2024|430x430px]]
'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''

'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner on the upper cliff..

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
[[File:MM.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with 2 rests), 13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

===Beagle Walls===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

15m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI''' S''''' '''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

From here on to 30m to the South/Right the bottom section is steep, flakey and smooth while the top section is tantalisingly featured and more solid, an arena for future generations!
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018. ''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Satisfying, takes the thin crack 1m left of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' to start'''.''' Move up the thin crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above.
[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b

''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.''

Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020. ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=]]

First ascent of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS'''

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]
'''FINNBHEAR **''' HVS 5b

''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022.''

Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the Left/North of '''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017.''

Easy chimney and ideal as a cavers bouldering problem!

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner '''COMIC TIMING''' using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step to start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between '''FANTAPANTS''' and '''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE'''. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards.

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' buttress.

'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of '''THE BALROG.'''

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

'''HOLY COW *''' -S (Mod-Severe) ''Marzena Rosiak, Justyna Gruszczyk, 01/06/2025. ''It's situated between t''he descent'' and ''Gotta Scratch an Itch''. A short line that follows an obvious crack with good-quality rock. Slightly awkward start near the small tree, then a nice climb with solid placements. Two options to finish. Anchor is set far back.
[[File:HOLY COW Route .png|center|thumb|600x600px|HOLY COW]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS.''' Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top.[[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson, 19th May 2024.'' Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Takes the right edge of the slab. Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the right facing corner-groove to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of '''STALL THE DIGGER''' to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to '''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb right side of the arete (left facing layback moves), on very sharp holds. This leads to a crack with good hand holds and protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, November 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009.''

Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019. ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b ''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S ''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D ''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Darragh on Soft Landing

'''POP''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.

(Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]

Colm on The Reach

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.

Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]

'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''

On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The crack on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

==Cottage Buttress==
A small outcrop 100m East of and behind Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean well protected lines to climb on.
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]

'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''PEIG''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.

A pleasant groove at the grade.

'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.

'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:37:41Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R., 24.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:31:51Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R. 25.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley|alt=|center]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:31:05Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R. 25.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:30:39Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R. 25.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:29:59Z

Marzena:

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R. 25.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

Mahon Valley

2025-08-25T13:29:32Z

Marzena: Adding the route

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Cnocán Lower Buttress'''

Visible from the car park, situated just before An Giorra Buttress and a little lower down. The buttress is characterised by its central crack systems and steep walls. The lower section is slightly vegetated, but the upper rock gives enjoyable climbing
[[File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley]]

'''Sunday’s Joy''' – ''Severe, 18m''

Jerzy G. , Marzena R. 25.08.2025

A very pleasant climb up the centre of the buttress. Start below the obvious crack line in the middle of the face. Climb the crack directly, using plentiful holds and good gear placements (cams are especially useful). The climbing is steady with a crux in the middle. It is enjoyable throughout, finishing on easier ground above.

A fine outing at the grade, offering a satisfying mix of movement and security.
 
[[File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png|left|thumb|Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley]]

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''

File:Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley.png

2025-08-25T13:23:40Z

Marzena:

Sunday’s Joy Mahon Valley

File:VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley.png

2025-08-25T13:17:22Z

Marzena:

VIEW from CAR PARK Mahon Valley

File:VIEW from CAR PARK.jpg

2025-08-25T13:13:36Z

Marzena:

VIEW from CAR PARK

Oughtdarra

2025-06-06T10:01:25Z

Marzena: Adding New Route - HOLY COW

==Introduction==

The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]] 
[[File:End wall OV.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
==End Wall==
An off vertical 8m wall of rock 200m North and Left of Gale Buttress.[[File:End wall.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
 '''SAHARA BOYS''' VS 4c

''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th August 2022.''
Climb the cracked left hand edge of the slab. [[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px|]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.

==Gale Buttress==
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress the West facing escarpment rises to form a steep buttress above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.

Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]

'''ISOBAR''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

==Northern Buttress==
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall starts facing West but faces South after the Stone wall, descriptions run West to East or left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 2m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m S ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up wide crack in left-hand wall to awkwardly surmount sloping ledge (crux) climb up short wall and blocky ridge to finish.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the gully.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a small ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''Karl Sloan, Enda Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully and behind the large boulder there are two left facing corners at ground level.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m S ''Karl Sloan, Liam Calnan, Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up a well protected left facing corner (crux) stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015. ''After climbung initial left facing corner finish directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007.'' Slightly right of the second corner there is a ramp'','' follow this pleasant cracked ramp to a ledge and finish via an awkward short corner to the top.
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next 3 routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the gully, climb a superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Right of Arnhem follow the ramp system to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
 
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further East and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces West.
[[File:V2.jpg|center|thumb|900x900px]]
 
==Builders Buttress==
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces West and runs North to South, with routes going left to right or Southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further Right/South there is Goat Buttress.

==Goat Buttress==
[[File:Goat Buttress 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

'''YOU'RE KIDDING ME?''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall between the loose chute and '''ACTING THE GOAT''' to the ledge, finish directly up the crack.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''4m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 20m further Right/South there is Goat Slab.

==Goat Slab==
[[File:GS.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''GOATS DON'T SHAVE''' (1) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

Climb the thin crack line to the terrace, finish up a crack.

'''GOATS FOR THE HARD ROAD''' (2) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''

Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.

'''WALK OF SHAME''' (3) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''

Climb the crack to the terrace, finish up the cracked wall.

'''DIRTY STOP OUT''' (4) D

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''

Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.

About 10m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==
[[File:Canyon.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 11m VD ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
[[File:Central_Area_Right_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.
[[File:FB central.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''80's RACK''' HS

''David Atkinson, Barry Watts, 6th July 2024.''

15m right of '''MATCHMAKER''' there is a left facing groove/shallow corner, Climb to the ledge, place protection in the wide crack and climb steeply up the wall 1m to the right.

In the next alcove there is

'''BANNER JOY''' VD

''Barry Watts, Cohen Ambrose, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''

Climb the groove/shallow corner on the left.

'''DAL gCAIS''' S

''Barry Watts, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''

Climb the groove/shallow corner on the right.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m Right/East of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard going at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

===Crumlin Wall===
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]

'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' 8m Mild Severe

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''

Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.

'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' 8m Diff

''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022.''

Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.

'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' 8m Mod

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''

For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' 20m HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.

'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024. ''Climb the fist crack, merging with the finish of Violent Love.
[[File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg|alt=Let's go crackers 2024|center|thumb|Let's go crackers 2024]]
'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''

'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner on the upper cliff..

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
[[File:MM.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with 2 rests), 13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

===Beagle Walls===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

15m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI''' S''''' '''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

30m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018. ''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Satisfying, takes the thin crack 1m left of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' to start'''.''' Move up the thin crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above.
[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b

''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.''

Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020. ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=]]

First ascent of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS'''

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]
'''FINNBHEAR **''' HVS 5b

''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022.''

Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the Left/North of '''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner '''COMIC TIMING''' using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step to start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between '''FANTAPANTS''' and '''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE'''. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards.

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' buttress.

'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of '''THE BALROG.'''

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

'''HOLY COW *''' S ''Marzena Rosiak, Justyna Gruszczyk, 01/06/2025. ''It's situated between t''he descent'' and ''Gotta Scratch an Itch''. A short line that follows an obvious crack with good-quality rock. Slightly awkward start near the small tree, then a nice climb with solid placements. Two options to finish. Anchor is set far back.
[[File:HOLY COW Route .png|center|thumb|600x600px|HOLY COW]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS.''' Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)
 [[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson, 19th May 2024.'' Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Takes the right edge of the slab. Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the right facing corner-groove to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of '''STALL THE DIGGER''' to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to '''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb right side of the arete (left facing layback moves), on very sharp holds. This leads to a crack with good hand holds and protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, November 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009.''

Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019. ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b ''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S ''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D ''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Darragh on Soft Landing

'''POP''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.

(Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]

Colm on The Reach

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.

Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]

'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''

On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The crack on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

==Cottage Buttress==
A small outcrop 100m East of and behind Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean well protected lines to climb on.
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]

'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''PEIG''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.

A pleasant groove at the grade.

'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.

'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

File:HOLY COW Route .png

2025-06-06T09:47:06Z

Marzena:

it is situated between the descent and Gotta Scratch

File:HOLY COW.png

2025-06-06T09:33:05Z

Marzena:

HOLY COW situated between the descent and "Gotta Scratch an Itch,"