Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Talk:An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head

2024-07-22T19:48:44Z

Lochlanngallagh: Crag position misreported?

Does someone have the original copy of the new climbs document? I think the position of the crag has been misreported, the grid reference leads to the wrong place. Perhaps the Q should be a V?

Com an Lochaigh

2021-11-17T15:36:38Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Upper Tier */ correcting an error in climb height

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series. There are multiple crags in the valley and much potential for a patient climber willing to go adventuring. The crags are of good old red sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crags but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. The river has gravel banks which are salmon spawning so extra care should be taking to not disturb that habitat.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
<display_map zoom="12" type="terrain">52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>

==An tEarrach Thiar==
This crag is visible directly ahead at the end of the road, however crossing the river here will result in wet boots. A better place to cross is located 200m upstream by hoping between some boulders. The crag is not a uniform wall of rock, it is instead a series of short disconnected walls.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>

===Lower Tier===
This is the tier seen directly ahead when at the end of the road.

'''An Cúinne, VD, 7m''' 
''L. Gallagher, 5/2020'' 
Climb the face of the leftmost corner

'''Méara Bochta, S, 10m''' 
''L. Gallagher, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Climb large loose flake at centre of lowest tier. Arrange gear at each gorsey ledge. Finish up flared crack to the left and belay off boulder set back well back from the edge

===Upper Tier===
This tier is characterised by three obvious overhanging arêtes at it highest point. There is potential for some much harder routes after some cleaning.

'''Dohjongg, VS 4b, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Watson, 5/2021'' 
Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.

'''Naoi Méar, HS, 14m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

==An tEarrach There==
The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car. Located at the slope leading to the crag is an abandoned house with a wooden roof frame. There are two tiers to the crag.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>

===Lower Tier===

The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Crann Pianmhar, VD, 6m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Up large crack, stand on horizontal break and move left before topping out.

''There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right.''

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015'' 
Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' 
This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

===Alphonse Wall===

This is the upper tier with many vertical cracks seen when topping out the lower tier. Named after a rescued lamb. Climbs are listed left to right as seen in the topo below.
[[File:Alphonse.png|thumb|Left route is Mo Chéad Uair and the right route is Tarrtháil Alphonse]]
'''Mo Chéad Uair, HS, 8m''' 
''C. Belton, P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb up leftmost ramp with your feet, keeping hands in right crack. Head upwards at end of crack.

'''Tarrtháil Alphonse, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Crack starts above big flare in middle of wall. Climb up crack with good gear and veer right when crack splits. Finish either straight up or stay right for easier top out.

Com an Lochaigh

2021-11-17T15:32:22Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Upper Tier */ Updated the grade after looking through some notes

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series. There are multiple crags in the valley and much potential for a patient climber willing to go adventuring. The crags are of good old red sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crags but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. The river has gravel banks which are salmon spawning so extra care should be taking to not disturb that habitat.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
<display_map zoom="12" type="terrain">52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>

==An tEarrach Thiar==
This crag is visible directly ahead at the end of the road, however crossing the river here will result in wet boots. A better place to cross is located 200m upstream by hoping between some boulders. The crag is not a uniform wall of rock, it is instead a series of short disconnected walls.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>

===Lower Tier===
This is the tier seen directly ahead when at the end of the road.

'''An Cúinne, VD, 7m''' 
''L. Gallagher, 5/2020'' 
Climb the face of the leftmost corner

'''Méara Bochta, S, 10m''' 
''L. Gallagher, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Climb large loose flake at centre of lowest tier. Arrange gear at each gorsey ledge. Finish up flared crack to the left and belay off boulder set back well back from the edge

===Upper Tier===
This tier is characterised by three obvious overhanging arêtes at it highest point. There is potential for some much harder routes after some cleaning.

'''Dohjongg, VS 4b, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Watson, 5/2021'' 
Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.

'''Naoi Méar, HS, 8m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

==An tEarrach There==
The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car. Located at the slope leading to the crag is an abandoned house with a wooden roof frame. There are two tiers to the crag.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>

===Lower Tier===

The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Crann Pianmhar, VD, 6m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Up large crack, stand on horizontal break and move left before topping out.

''There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right.''

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015'' 
Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' 
This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

===Alphonse Wall===

This is the upper tier with many vertical cracks seen when topping out the lower tier. Named after a rescued lamb. Climbs are listed left to right as seen in the topo below.
[[File:Alphonse.png|thumb|Left route is Mo Chéad Uair and the right route is Tarrtháil Alphonse]]
'''Mo Chéad Uair, HS, 8m''' 
''C. Belton, P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb up leftmost ramp with your feet, keeping hands in right crack. Head upwards at end of crack.

'''Tarrtháil Alphonse, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Crack starts above big flare in middle of wall. Climb up crack with good gear and veer right when crack splits. Finish either straight up or stay right for easier top out.

Com an Lochaigh

2021-11-15T14:22:06Z

Lochlanngallagh: Added a topo photo with more to come

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series. There are multiple crags in the valley and much potential for a patient climber willing to go adventuring. The crags are of good old red sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crags but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. The river has gravel banks which are salmon spawning so extra care should be taking to not disturb that habitat.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
<display_map zoom="12" type="terrain">52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>

==An tEarrach Thiar==
This crag is visible directly ahead at the end of the road, however crossing the river here will result in wet boots. A better place to cross is located 200m upstream by hoping between some boulders. The crag is not a uniform wall of rock, it is instead a series of short disconnected walls.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>

===Lower Tier===
This is the tier seen directly ahead when at the end of the road.

'''An Cúinne, VD, 7m''' 
''L. Gallagher, 5/2020'' 
Climb the face of the leftmost corner

'''Méara Bochta, S, 10m''' 
''L. Gallagher, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Climb large loose flake at centre of lowest tier. Arrange gear at each gorsey ledge. Finish up flared crack to the left and belay off boulder set back well back from the edge

===Upper Tier===
This tier is characterised by three obvious overhanging arêtes at it highest point. There is potential for some much harder routes after some cleaning.

'''Dohjongg, VS 4b, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Watson, 5/2021'' 
Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.

'''Naoi Méar''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

==An tEarrach There==
The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car. Located at the slope leading to the crag is an abandoned house with a wooden roof frame. There are two tiers to the crag.
<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>

===Lower Tier===

The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Crann Pianmhar, VD, 6m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Up large crack, stand on horizontal break and move left before topping out.

''There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right.''

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015'' 
Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' 
This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

===Alphonse Wall===

This is the upper tier with many vertical cracks seen when topping out the lower tier. Named after a rescued lamb. Climbs are listed left to right as seen in the topo below.
[[File:Alphonse.png|thumb|Left route is Mo Chéad Uair and the right route is Tarrtháil Alphonse]]
'''Mo Chéad Uair, HS, 8m''' 
''C. Belton, P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb up leftmost ramp with your feet, keeping hands in right crack. Head upwards at end of crack.

'''Tarrtháil Alphonse, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Crack starts above big flare in middle of wall. Climb up crack with good gear and veer right when crack splits. Finish either straight up or stay right for easier top out.

File:Alphonse.png

2021-11-15T14:21:01Z

Lochlanngallagh:

Alphonse wall showing two climbed routes

Com an Lochaigh

2021-11-15T14:04:24Z

Lochlanngallagh: Added new routes from summer climbing adventure

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series. There are multiple crags in the valley and much potential for a patient climber willing to go adventuring. The crags are of good old red sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crags but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. The river has gravel banks which are salmon spawning so extra care should be taking to not disturb that habitat.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
<display_map zoom="12" type=terrain>52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>

==An tEarrach Thiar==
This crag is visible directly ahead at the end of the road, however crossing the river here will result in wet boots. A better place to cross is located 200m upstream by hoping between some boulders. The crag is not a uniform wall of rock, it is instead a series of short disconnected walls.
<display_map zoom="15" type=satellite>52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>

===Lower Tier===
This is the tier seen directly ahead when at the end of the road.

'''An Cúinne, VD, 7m''' 
''L. Gallagher, 5/2020'' 
Climb the face of the leftmost corner

'''Méara Bochta, S, 10m''' 
''L. Gallagher, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Climb large loose flake at centre of lowest tier. Arrange gear at each gorsey ledge. Finish up flared crack to the left and belay off boulder set back well back from the edge

===Upper Tier===
This tier is characterised by three obvious overhanging arêtes at it highest point. There is potential for some much harder routes after some cleaning.

'''Dohjongg, VS 4b, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Watson, 5/2021'' 
Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.

'''Naoi Méar''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

==An tEarrach There==
The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car. Located at the slope leading to the crag is an abandoned house with a wooden roof frame. There are two tiers to the crag.
<display_map zoom="15" type=satellite>52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>

===Lower Tier===

The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Crann Pianmhar, VD, 6m''' 
''P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Up large crack, stand on horizontal break and move left before topping out.

''There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right.''

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015'' 
Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013'' 
Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m''' 
''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' 
This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

===Alphonse Wall===

This is the upper tier with many vertical cracks seen when topping out the lower tier. Named after a rescued lamb. Climbs are listed left to right as seen in the topo below.

'''Mo Chéad Uair, HS, 8m''' 
''C. Belton, P. McFadden, 5/2021'' 
Climb up leftmost ramp with your feet, keeping hands in right crack. Head upwards at end of crack.

'''Tarrtháil Alphonse, VS 4c, 10m''' 
''P. McFadden, C. Belton, 5/2021'' 
Crack starts above big flare in middle of wall. Climb up crack with good gear and veer right when crack splits. Finish either straight up or stay right for easier top out.

Binn Diarmada

2021-04-17T13:19:03Z

Lochlanngallagh:

Three Sisters. OS discovery Sheet 70 GR 356 088 

'''Crooked Sister''' 50m E2 5b 
''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1993'' 
This climb is situated on the cliffs to the west of of the eastern-most of the Three Sisters, and follows a well defined overhanging corner with a marked overhang at about half height. 
Access. Travel through the settlement of Smerwick and continue on to the east along the boreen to its end, where it is possible to park and turn a car. Walk north to the lowest point of the cliff line, about 15 minutes. Scramble down the slab just east of a zawn and then traverse along rock pavements and rock fall debris in an easterly direction. The corner of "Crooked Sister" is immediately obvious in the middle of a large impending wall, just beyond a large rockfall and about 100m short of the large cave. 
The line of the route is obvious and is climbed in one long pitch. The final belay is in a deep cleft a few meters above and to the R of the last steep section. 
The rock is relatively fragile, though not loose, so use lots of protection, large to medium rocks and hexes, but save a few 8's and 9's for the extreme overhang. Friends are disappointing, especially in the lower section. 
The climb is steeper, and therefore, harder than it looks. Don't lose heart at the overhang. There is a 'no hands' rest immediately above and the upper section offers rough rock with good holds, jams and protection.

An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

2021-04-05T16:21:59Z

Lochlanngallagh:

A Tiglin group visited the island in June and twenty five new routes were put up at An Gob of which brief descriptions are given here.

Access; From the harbour a short walk due south will cross several old field boundaries before reaching a rounded spur running east down to Point an Ghoib. From this spur, which itself is defined a field boundary, a route should be found on a descending traverse south west to the top of The Slab. The descent to the long ledge below The Slab and Black Wall follows a series of large easy steps on the north eastern edge of The Slab. This ledge is just above the level of high water spring tides, but is not safe if heavy seas are running. In this case a higher traverse into the climbs can easily be made. To reach the base of climbs in Chimney Scoop an easy descent can be made from the south western end of the cliff or by climbing ''Slí Amach''.

[[File:blasket.jpg]]

The rock is old red sandstone and requires care, there is a mention of a guide and diagrams been produced maybe someone knows where they are ?

===Chimney Scoop===

'''The Mutation''' 30m VS 4b 
''R Dean belayed by J Domoney 15/6/81'' 
A difficult start and difficulty in placing gear make this an unusual climb. 
Start; at the foot of a large deep chimney, The route climbs the outside of the chimney’s retaining left wall, gained by a step left from the belay and difficult moves up a steep black wall. A short move right then cracks to the top. 

'''Sanity Clause''' 26m VS 4b 
''S. O'Riordan, J. Domoney 1/6/1982. (New Climbs 1982)'' 
Climb the chimney immediately R of 'The Mutation'. The bottom half can be slippery. 

'''An Port''' ? 
''R Dean 15/6/81'' 
A short and elegant route up the curved arête 8 m right of the deep chiney. Short and unprotected. 
Start; at the foot of the arête beneath the left crack of three fine parallel cracks. The line of the arête is followed past a small break on the left to large finishing jugs. 

'''Sandman Slab''' 15m E1 (one aid nut) 
''D. O'Connell. E. O'Flynn 1982.(New Climbs 1982)'' 
A direct line up the slab 1m L of 'An Port'. The crux is at mid-height, where an RP was used for aid. 

'''Sandman''' E2 5b/c 
''C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Now goes free. 

'''The Pass''' VS 4b/c 
''C. Torrans, S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Climb the obvious layback crack L of the 'Sandman' slab. 

'''An Rinceoir''' 15m V.Diff 
''P. Stronach 15/6/81'' 
A good route with a fine line taking the biggest of three parallel cracks. 
Start; just right of 'An Port' by about 2 m. Climb straight up the crack using laybacks and good jugs. Continue up short arête to top on good holds. 

'''Boys Own''' VD/S 
''S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Wall R of ''An Rinceoir'', finishing up corner above. 

'''Luidím Maclú''' ? 
''E. Gallagher, S. Reidy June 1984'' 
As for 'Boys Own' then move R to corner. 

'''An Clochán''' 15m VD 
''T Owens T Daly 15/6/81'' 
A pleasant layback and an exposed finish. 
Start; on large ledge 6 m from base of crag and in the very back of Chimney Scoop. Follow edge of obvious flake to left end of a ledge. Continue up corner above to a good stance. 

'''Wee Nick''' ? 5a 
''C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984.(New Climbs 1984)'' 
The wall and overhang between 'An Clochán' and 'The Low Lintel'. 

'''The Low Lintel''' 20m S 
''R Dean 15/6/81'' 
A crux near the top. 
Start; at the sea-level ledge 4 m right of a large pulpit of rock and beneath small rightward-facing corners. 
Climb corners to the second quartz break then the slab above just left of a left-facing corner. Exit up ‘An Clochán’ or across the tops of ‘Deora na Maighdine’ and ‘Fliuchras’ . 

'''Sailor Boy''' HVS 5a/b 
''C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984'' 
The slabs and overhangs between 'The Low Lintel' and 'Deora na Maighdine'. 

'''Deora na Maighdine''' 20m S 
''P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81'' 
Start; at the sea level ledge 4 m right of ‘The Low Lintel’ and below an overhanging corner.
Climb up to corner on small positive holds past a large band of quartz with large crystals to a ledge. Move slightly left and up a small crack and corner to top ledge. Good protection throughout. 

'''Fliuchras''' 25m VS 4c 
''P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81'' 
A route worth doing – looks a bit improbable, but is all there. This route takes the line straight up the middle of the protruding slab on the right hand side of Chimney Scoop. 
Start; from the sea-level ledge climb straight up the slab to a small overhang above the quartz vein. Climb the overhang and continue up the steeper slab above to bulge. Continue over bulge {crux} and up slab using small holds and crack. Move left on the ledge above and continue up crack to top. Protection good. 

'''Ceann Dubh''' 20m HS 
''K Higgins P Stronach 15/6/81'' 
Start; 3 m left of the right hand boundary of Chimney Scoop and beneath the protruding slab. The overhang above is split by a corner. Climb the slab and corner to the top. 

===Black Wall===

'''Slí Amach''' 5m VD 
''R Dean 15/6/81'' 
A good way of reaching Chimney Scoop from Black Wall. 
Start; at the extreme left end of the sea ledge below Black Wall is a wide shallow chimney. Climb the back wall of the chimney. A short walk along the top of ‘Ceann Dubh’, ‘Fliuchras’, ‘Deora na Maighdine’ and ‘The Low Lintel’ allows a descent of the lower section of ‘An Clochán’. 

'''An Capall Glas''' 20m HS 
''P O'Leary E Smith 15/6/81'' 
An attractive line. Start; as for ‘Slí Amach’. Climb the corner that forms the left boundary of Black Wall where it meets a leaning buttress. 

'''Bogna''' HS/VS 
''C. Torrans, S. McCauley June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)'' 
The groove and wall just R of 'An Capall Glas'. (Difficulties can be avoided). 

'''Swirls''' S 
''C. Torrans, M. Macpherson. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)'' 
The obvious line L of 'Faoi Dheire'. 

'''Wee Nuke''' S 
''C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Wall just L of ' Faoi Dheire'. 

'''Hairy Dog''' S 
''C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Fault line R of 'Wee Nuke'. 

'''Faoi Dheire''' 40m S 
''T Daly P Stronach 17/6/81'' 
A pleasant route making a line linking the two obvious recesses. 
Start; outside the first recess and climb arête on the left hand side of corner until the second recess is reached. Climb the obvious corner above this to top. The top of this climb is a little loose, as is most of the top of Black Wall. Protection pretty good. 

'''Delman''' S 
''C. Torrans, June 1984 (New Climbs 1984)'' 
Fault line in between 'Faoi Dheire' and 'Tobar na Sidhe' 

'''Tobar na Sidhe''' 40m S 
''P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81'' 
This route takes a line straight up from about 6 m left of ‘Scoilt Linda’ and about 3 m left of the grey-green slab on which ‘Ceathru’ runs. 
Start; from the main sea-level ledge. Climb up to a small overhang in wall right of a quartz vein. Continue up two parallel s-shaped cracks to top. Protection fair. 

'''Ceathru''' 40m S 
''C Torrans P Stronach 18/6/81'' 
This route takes an obvious line straight up the grey-green slab on the right -hand side of the Black Wall and just left of ‘Scoilt Linda’. 
Start; at the bottom of the Slab and climb it straight up it to top. Protection good.

===The Slab===

'''Scoilt Linda''' 35m VD 
''L McGee E Smith (alt leads) 14/6/81'' 
A Classic. Good protection in the crack. Start; at the base of the crack dividing The Slab and the Black Wall.
1. 15m Climb the crack to a good stance on a pillar in the crack.
2. 20m Climb the crack above to the top.

'''Fiche Bliain ag Fás''' 35m E1 5b 
''R Dean P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81'' 
Small wires and good eyesight to arrange protection. 
Start; below the zig-zag break. Climb this to a flake above and on the right, then delicately up the slab on small secure holds. (Good small wires.) 

'''Peig''' 35m HVS 5a
''R Dean P Stronach 18/6/81'' 
Start; 2 m right of 'Fiche Bliain ag Fás'. The climb continues parallel to 'Fiche Bliain ag Fás' passing 2 m left of a short overhung leftward facing corner at mid height, the line of 'An t-Oileánach'. to gain a weak break above a faint overhang. Up this to deep crack and the top. 

'''An t-Oileánach''' 30m VS 4c 
''P Stronach K Higgins 14/6/81'' 
A real gem of a climb. Well protected and producing a fine position. This route runs straight up the middle of the main slab breaking through the overhanging corner which is at mid height. 
Start; directly below the overhanging corner. Climb a thin crack past the stepped ledge to the overhang. Climb this stepping right on the slab above. Continue up rightward-trending break above. 

'''An Béal Bocht''' 30m E1 5b 
''C Torrans J Domoney 18/6/81'' 
Scarce protection. The route is approximately 2 m left of the corner on ‘Slí na Firine’. 
Start; up easy slabs to small overhang. Climb this by undercuts to small edge (5a). Climb straight right wards to pale patch of rock on thin holds (5b). Move up on good small finger holds to the top. 

'''Slí na Firine''' 30m S 
''K Higgins P Stronach 13/6/81'' 
Varied with slab climbing and a corner requiring small wires for protection. 
Start; just left of the first corner right of the zig-zag break followed by ‘Fiche Bliain ag Fás’. The climb can easily be split into 2 pitches, the top one harder and requiring small wires for protection. 

'''Bóthar an Aimhleasa''' 25m S 
''J O'Dwyer T Daly 13/6/81'' 
The route is easily identified from the diagram and may be split into 2 pitches at the half way ledge. The top pitch is harder requiring small wires for protection. 

'''Neamhurchoideas''' 15m VD 
''E Smyth P Cashin 13/6/81'' 
A good climb breaking easily through an overhang near the top after pleasant slab and crack climbing. 

'''An Céad Faoistin''' 15m S 
''R Dean 16/6/81'' 
A short slab finished by a hard move to a good handhold. Poor protection. 

'''Mná''' 15m D 
''P Maher P Oman 14/6/81'' 

'''Fir''' 15m D 
''V Hynes A Weber 14/6/81'' 
Both routes provide nice climbing up twin corners at the extreme right hand side of The Slab. They may be started at sea level or at mid-height depending on the sea and the state of the tide. 

'''Ag Snámh d'Éan''' 70m S 
''R Dean 18/6/81'' 
A good traverse best started from the right. This leaves the crux of each pitch to the last. Traverse under the overhang of ‘Neamhurchoideas’ along the stepped ledge of ‘An t-Oileánach’ and across a slab (crux) onto the belay of ‘Scoilt Linda’. From here traverse past two recesses on the Black Wall to finish by a quartz break across the leaning break of ‘An Capall Glas’.

An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

2021-04-05T16:20:07Z

Lochlanngallagh: Trying to help daveh out with his standardising of the formatting, unsure if I'm doing it right! Also adding fadas where I notice them missing.

An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

2021-04-05T15:04:57Z

Lochlanngallagh:

A Tiglin group visited the island in June and twenty five new routes were put up at An Gob of which brief descriptions are given here.

Access; From the harbour a short walk due south will cross several old field boundaries before reaching a rounded spur running east down to Point an Ghoib. From this spur, which itself is defined a field boundary, a route should be found on a descending traverse south west to the top of The Slab. The descent to the long ledge below The Slab and Black Wall follows a series of large easy steps on the north eastern edge of The Slab. This ledge is just above the level of high water spring tides, but is not safe if heavy seas are running. In this case a higher traverse into the climbs can easily be made. To reach the base of climbs in Chimney Scoop an easy descent can be made from the south western end of the cliff or by climbing ?Sli amach? from below Black Wall.

[[File:blasket.jpg]]

The rock is old red sandstone and requires care, there is a mention of a guide and diagrams been produced maybe someone knows where they are ?

===Chimney Scoop===

'''THE MUTATION''' 30m VS 4b 
''R Dean belayed by J Domoney 15/6/81''
A difficult start and difficulty in placing gear make this an unusual climb.
Start; at the foot of a large deep chimney, The route climbs the outside of the chimney’s retaining left wall, gained by a step left from the belay and difficult moves up a steep black wall. A short move right then cracks to the top. 

'''Sanity Clause''' 26m VS 
''S. O'Riordan, J. Domoney 1/6/1982. (New Climbs 1982)'' 
(4b) Climb the chimney immediately R of 'The Mutation'. The bottom half can be slippery. 

'''AN PORT'''
R Dean 15/6/81
A short and elegant route up the curved arête 8 m right of the deep chiney. Short and unprotected.
Start; at the foot of the arête beneath the left crack of three fine parallel cracks. The line of the arête is followed past a small break on the left to large finishing jugs. 

'''Sandman Slab''' 15m E1 (one aid nut) 
A direct line up the slab 1m L of 'An Port'. The crux isat mid-height, where an RP was used for aid. 
D. O'Connell. E. O'Flynn 1982.(New Climbs 1982). 
'''Sandman'''
Now goes free at E2 5b/c 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''The Pass.''' VS 4b/c 
Climb the obvious layback crack L of the 'Sandman' slab. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''AN RINCEOIR''' 15m V.Diff
P. Stronach 15/6/81
A good route with a fine line taking the biggest of three parallel cracks. Start; just right of ‘AN PORT’ by about 2 m. Climb straight up the crack using laybacks and good jugs. Continue up short arête to top on good holds. 

'''Boys Own''' VD/S 
Wall R of 'An Rinceoir', finishing up corner above.
S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Luidím Maclú'''
As for 'Boys Own' then move R to corner. 
E. Gallagher, S. Reidy June 1984. 

'''AN CLOCHAN''' 15m V.Diff
T Owens T Daly 15/6/81
A pleasant layback and an exposed finish.
Start; on large ledge 6 m from base of crag and in the very back of chimney Scoop. Follow edge of obvious flake to left end of a ledge. Continue up corner above to a good stance. 

'''Wee Nick''' 5a 
The wall and overhang between 'An Clochan' and 'The Low Lintel'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984.(New Climbs 1984). 

'''THE LOW LINTEL''' 20m S
R Dean 15/6/81
A crux near the top.
Start; at the sea-level ledge 4 m right of a large pulpit of rock and beneath small rightward-facing corners.
Climb corners to the second quartz break then the slab above just left of a left-facing corner. Exit up ‘AN CLOCHAN’ or across the tops of ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘FLUICHRAS’ . 

'''Sailor Boy''' HVS 5a/b 
The slabs and overhangs between 'The Low Lintel' and 'Deora na Maighdine'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984 

'''DEORA NA MAIGHDINE''' 20m S
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
Start; at the sea level ledge 4 m right of ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ and below an overhanging corner.
Climb up to corner on small positive holds past a large band of quartz with large crystals to a ledge. Move slightly left and up a small crack and corner to top ledge. Good protection throughout.

'''FLUICHRAS''' 25m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
A route worth doing – looks a bit improbable, but is all there. This route takes the line straight up the middle of the protruding slab on the right hand side of Chimney Scoop.
Start; from the sea-level ledge climb straight up the slab to a small overhang above the quartz vein. Climb the overhang and continue up the steeper slab above to bulge. Continue over bulge {crux} and up slab using small holds and crack. Move left on the ledge above and continue up crack to top. Protection good.

'''CEANN DUBH''' 20m HS
K Higgins P Stronach 15/6/81
Start; 3 m left of the right hand boundary of Chimney Scoop and beneath the protruding slab. The overhang above is split by a corner. Climb the slab and corner to the top.<br

'''Climbs on Black Wall'''

'''SLI AMACH''' 5m V.Diff
R Dean 15/6/81
A good way of reaching Chimney Scoop from Black Wall. Start; at the extreme left end of the sea ledge below Black Wall is a wide shallow chimney. Climb the back wall of the chimney. A short walk along the top of ‘CEANN DUBH’, ‘FLUICHRAS’, ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ allows a descent of the lower section of ‘AN CLOCHAN’.

'''AN CAPALL GLAS''' 20m HS
P O'Leary E Smith 15/6/81
An attractive line. Start; as for ‘SLI AMACH’. Climb the corner that forms the left boundary of Black Wall where it meets a leaning buttress. 

'''Bogna''' HS/VS 
The groove and wall just R of 'An Capall Glas'. (Difficulties can be avoided). 
C. Torrans, S. McCauley June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Swirls''' S. 
The obvious line L of 'Faoi Dheire'. 
C. Torrans, M. Macpherson. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984) 

'''Wee Nuke''' S 
Wall just L of ' Faoi Dheire'.
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Hairy Dog''' S 
Fault line R of 'Wee Nuke'. 
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''FAOI DHEIRE''' 40m S
T Daly P Stronach 17/6/81
A pleasant route making a line linking the two obvious recesses.
Start; outside the first recess and climb arête on the left hand side of corner until the second recess is reached. Climb the obvious corner above this to top. The top of this climb is a little loose, as is most of the top of Black Wall. Protection pretty good. 

'''Delman''' S 
Fault line in between 'Faoi Dheire' and 'Tobar na Sidhe' 
C. Torrans, June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''TOBAR NA SIDHE''' 40m S
P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
This route takes a line straight up from about 6 m left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’ and about 3 m left of the grey-green slab on which ‘CEATHRU’ runs. Start; from the main sea-level ledge. Climb up to a small overhang in wall right of a quartz vein. Continue up two parallel s-shaped cracks to top. Protection fair.

'''CEATHRU''' 40m S
C Torrans P Stronach 18/6/81
This route takes an obvious line straight up the grey-green slab on the right -hand side of the Black Wall and just left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’. Start; at the bottom of the Slab and climb it straight up it to top. Protection good.

Climbs on the Slab

'''SCOILT LINDA''' 35m V.Diff
L McGee E Smith (alt leads) 14/6/81
A Classic. Good protection in the crack. Start; at the base of the crack dividing The Slab and the Black Wall.
1. 15m Climb the crack to a good stance on a pillar in the crack.
2. 20m Climb the crack above to the top.

'''FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS''' 35m E1 5b
R Dean P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
Small wires and good eyesight to arrange protection.
Start; below the zig-zag break. Climb this to a flake above and on the right, then delicately up the slab on small secure holds. (Good small wires.)

'''PEIG''' 35m HVS 5a
R Dean P Stronach 18/6/81
Start; 2 m right of ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb continues parallel to’FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’ passing 2 m left of a short overhung leftward facing corner at mid height, the line of ‘AN T-OILLEANACH’. to gain a weak break above a faint overhang. Up this to deep crack and the top.

'''AN T-OILEANACH''' 30m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 14/6/81
A real gem of a climb. Well protected and producing a fine position. This route runs straight up the middle of the main slab breaking through the overhanging corner which is at mid height.
Start; directly below the overhanging corner. Climb a thin crack past the stepped ledge to the overhang. Climb this stepping right on the slab above. Continue up rightward-trending break above.

'''AN BEAL BOCHT''' 30m E1 5b
C Torrans J Domoney 18/6/81
Scarce protection. The route is approximately 2 m left of the corner on ‘SLI NA FIRINE’. Start; up easy slabs to small overhang. Climb this by undercuts to small edge (5a). Climb straight right wards to pale patch of rock on thin holds (5b). Move up on good small finger holds to the top.

'''SLI NA FIRINE''' 30m S
K Higgins P Stronach 13/6/81
Varied with slab climbing and a corner requiring small wires for protection. Start; just left of the first corner right of the zig-zag break followed by ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb can easily be split into 2 pitches, the top one harder and requiring small wires for protection.

'''BOTHAR AN AIMHLEASA''' 25m S
J O?Dwyer T Daly 13/6/81
The route is easily identified from the diagram and may be split into 2 pitches at the half way ledge. The top pitch is harder requiring small wires for protection.

'''NEAMHURCHOIDEAS''' 15m V.Diff
E Smyth P Cashin 13/6/81
A good climb breaking easily through an overhang near the top after pleasant slab and crack climbing.

'''AN CEAD FAOISTIN''' 15m S
R Dean 16/6/81
A short slab finished by a hard move to a good handhold. Poor protection.

'''MNA''' 15m Diff
P Maher P Oman 14/6/81

'''FIR''' 15m Diff
V Hynes A Weber 14/6/81
Both routes provide nice climbing up twin corners at the extreme right hand side of The Slab. They may be started at sea level or at mid-height depending on the sea and the state of the tide.

'''AG SNAMH DE EAN''' 70m S
R Dean 18/6/81
A good traverse best started from the right. This leaves the crux of each pitch to the last. Traverse under the overhang of ‘NEAMHURCHOIDEAS’ along the stepped ledge of ‘AN T-OILEANACH’ and across a slab (crux) onto the belay of ‘SCOIL LINDA’. From here traverse past two recesses on the Black Wall to finish by a quartz break across the leaning break of ‘AN CAPALL GLAS’.

Irish Climbing Wiki

2021-03-21T17:41:28Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Dingle Peninsula / Corcha Duibhne */ Swapping the two to put the Irish first

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.mournesclimbers.com Mournes]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

Old Link: [http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=23&Submit=Go Dunseverick], New Link: [https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag rather than a GR for the Parking?)

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[The Playbank]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]] (Anyone have a grid reference for this?)

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]], [[Carrick Mountain 2]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

An Sás / Sauce Creek

2021-03-21T17:37:38Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

Location:

[https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sauce+Creek/@52.2745273,-10.2228026,14.58z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x4850003d3ac7de65:0xbdc532465030f743!8m2!3d52.2724952!4d-10.2104133 Google Maps]

Description:

Info on An Sás sent in from Stephen Mc Auliffe on 12/10/2016 - "Myself and Francis Jan Kluzniak went to An Sás (Sauce creek on the maps) near Mt Brandon (Cnoc Bréanainn) yesterday to have a look at a rock face that as far as I know hasn’t been climbed. I have attached a picture of the face and the three routes we did are marked on it. As I say I can find no record of this crag being climbed but perhaps I am wrong. Even so it was a superb day out in a stunning place."

[[File:Sauce creek.jpg]]

Red I called Playing it safe and it is 35mtrs Mod

Blue I called Reaching for the sky and is 30mtrs Diff

Green I called Edge of Heaven and is 40mtrs VDiff***

An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

2021-03-21T17:35:39Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

A Tiglin group visited the island in June and twenty five new routes were put up at An Gob of which brief descriptions are given here.

Access; From the harbour a short walk due south will cross several old field boundaries before reaching a rounded spur running east down to Point an Ghoib. From this spur, which itself is defined a field boundary, a route should be found on a descending traverse south west to the top of The Slab. The descent to the long ledge below The Slab and Black Wall follows a series of large easy steps on the north eastern edge of The Slab. This ledge is just above the level of high water spring tides, but is not safe if heavy seas are running. In this case a higher traverse into the climbs can easily be made. To reach the base of climbs in Chimney Scoop an easy descent can be made from the south western end of the cliff or by climbing ?Sli amach? from below Black Wall.

[[File:blasket.jpg]]

The rock is old red sandstone and requires care, there is a mention of a guide and diagrams been produced maybe someone knows where they are ?

'''Climbs in Chimney Scoop'''

'''THE MUTATION''' 30m VS 4b
R Dean belayed by J Domoney 15/6/81
A difficult start and difficulty in placing gear make this an unusual climb.
Start; at the foot of a large deep chimney, The route climbs the outside of the chimney’s retaining left wall, gained by a step left from the belay and difficult moves up a steep black wall. A short move right then cracks to the top. 

'''Sanity Clause''' 26m VS 
(4b) Climb the chimney immediately R of 'The Mutation'. The bottom half can be slippery. 
S. O'Riordan, J. Domoney 1st June 1982. (New Climbs 1982) 

'''AN PORT'''
R Dean 15/6/81
A short and elegant route up the curved arête 8 m right of the deep chiney. Short and unprotected.
Start; at the foot of the arête beneath the left crack of three fine parallel cracks. The line of the arête is followed past a small break on the left to large finishing jugs. 

'''Sandman Slab''' 15m E1 (one aid nut) 
A direct line up the slab 1m L of 'An Port'. The crux isat mid-height, where an RP was used for aid. 
D. O'Connell. E. O'Flynn 1982.(New Climbs 1982). 
'''Sandman'''
Now goes free at E2 5b/c 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''The Pass.''' VS 4b/c 
Climb the obvious layback crack L of the 'Sandman' slab. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''AN RINCEOIR''' 15m V.Diff
P. Stronach 15/6/81
A good route with a fine line taking the biggest of three parallel cracks. Start; just right of ‘AN PORT’ by about 2 m. Climb straight up the crack using laybacks and good jugs. Continue up short arête to top on good holds. 

'''Boys Own''' VD/S 
Wall R of 'An Rinceoir', finishing up corner above.
S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Luidím Maclú'''
As for 'Boys Own' then move R to corner. 
E. Gallagher, S. Reidy June 1984. 

'''AN CLOCHAN''' 15m V.Diff
T Owens T Daly 15/6/81
A pleasant layback and an exposed finish.
Start; on large ledge 6 m from base of crag and in the very back of chimney Scoop. Follow edge of obvious flake to left end of a ledge. Continue up corner above to a good stance. 

'''Wee Nick''' 5a 
The wall and overhang between 'An Clochan' and 'The Low Lintel'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984.(New Climbs 1984). 

'''THE LOW LINTEL''' 20m S
R Dean 15/6/81
A crux near the top.
Start; at the sea-level ledge 4 m right of a large pulpit of rock and beneath small rightward-facing corners.
Climb corners to the second quartz break then the slab above just left of a left-facing corner. Exit up ‘AN CLOCHAN’ or across the tops of ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘FLUICHRAS’ . 

'''Sailor Boy''' HVS 5a/b 
The slabs and overhangs between 'The Low Lintel' and 'Deora na Maighdine'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984 

'''DEORA NA MAIGHDINE''' 20m S
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
Start; at the sea level ledge 4 m right of ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ and below an overhanging corner.
Climb up to corner on small positive holds past a large band of quartz with large crystals to a ledge. Move slightly left and up a small crack and corner to top ledge. Good protection throughout.

'''FLUICHRAS''' 25m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
A route worth doing – looks a bit improbable, but is all there. This route takes the line straight up the middle of the protruding slab on the right hand side of Chimney Scoop.
Start; from the sea-level ledge climb straight up the slab to a small overhang above the quartz vein. Climb the overhang and continue up the steeper slab above to bulge. Continue over bulge {crux} and up slab using small holds and crack. Move left on the ledge above and continue up crack to top. Protection good.

'''CEANN DUBH''' 20m HS
K Higgins P Stronach 15/6/81
Start; 3 m left of the right hand boundary of Chimney Scoop and beneath the protruding slab. The overhang above is split by a corner. Climb the slab and corner to the top.<br

'''Climbs on Black Wall'''

'''SLI AMACH''' 5m V.Diff
R Dean 15/6/81
A good way of reaching Chimney Scoop from Black Wall. Start; at the extreme left end of the sea ledge below Black Wall is a wide shallow chimney. Climb the back wall of the chimney. A short walk along the top of ‘CEANN DUBH’, ‘FLUICHRAS’, ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ allows a descent of the lower section of ‘AN CLOCHAN’.

'''AN CAPALL GLAS''' 20m HS
P O'Leary E Smith 15/6/81
An attractive line. Start; as for ‘SLI AMACH’. Climb the corner that forms the left boundary of Black Wall where it meets a leaning buttress. 

'''Bogna''' HS/VS 
The groove and wall just R of 'An Capall Glas'. (Difficulties can be avoided). 
C. Torrans, S. McCauley June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Swirls''' S. 
The obvious line L of 'Faoi Dheire'. 
C. Torrans, M. Macpherson. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984) 

'''Wee Nuke''' S 
Wall just L of ' Faoi Dheire'.
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Hairy Dog''' S 
Fault line R of 'Wee Nuke'. 
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''FAOI DHEIRE''' 40m S
T Daly P Stronach 17/6/81
A pleasant route making a line linking the two obvious recesses.
Start; outside the first recess and climb arête on the left hand side of corner until the second recess is reached. Climb the obvious corner above this to top. The top of this climb is a little loose, as is most of the top of Black Wall. Protection pretty good. 

'''Delman''' S 
Fault line in between 'Faoi Dheire' and 'Tobar na Sidhe' 
C. Torrans, June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''TOBAR NA SIDHE''' 40m S
P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
This route takes a line straight up from about 6 m left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’ and about 3 m left of the grey-green slab on which ‘CEATHRU’ runs. Start; from the main sea-level ledge. Climb up to a small overhang in wall right of a quartz vein. Continue up two parallel s-shaped cracks to top. Protection fair.

'''CEATHRU''' 40m S
C Torrans P Stronach 18/6/81
This route takes an obvious line straight up the grey-green slab on the right -hand side of the Black Wall and just left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’. Start; at the bottom of the Slab and climb it straight up it to top. Protection good.

Climbs on the Slab

'''SCOILT LINDA''' 35m V.Diff
L McGee E Smith (alt leads) 14/6/81
A Classic. Good protection in the crack. Start; at the base of the crack dividing The Slab and the Black Wall.
1. 15m Climb the crack to a good stance on a pillar in the crack.
2. 20m Climb the crack above to the top.

'''FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS''' 35m E1 5b
R Dean P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
Small wires and good eyesight to arrange protection.
Start; below the zig-zag break. Climb this to a flake above and on the right, then delicately up the slab on small secure holds. (Good small wires.)

'''PEIG''' 35m HVS 5a
R Dean P Stronach 18/6/81
Start; 2 m right of ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb continues parallel to’FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’ passing 2 m left of a short overhung leftward facing corner at mid height, the line of ‘AN T-OILLEANACH’. to gain a weak break above a faint overhang. Up this to deep crack and the top.

'''AN T-OILEANACH''' 30m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 14/6/81
A real gem of a climb. Well protected and producing a fine position. This route runs straight up the middle of the main slab breaking through the overhanging corner which is at mid height.
Start; directly below the overhanging corner. Climb a thin crack past the stepped ledge to the overhang. Climb this stepping right on the slab above. Continue up rightward-trending break above.

'''AN BEAL BOCHT''' 30m E1 5b
C Torrans J Domoney 18/6/81
Scarce protection. The route is approximately 2 m left of the corner on ‘SLI NA FIRINE’. Start; up easy slabs to small overhang. Climb this by undercuts to small edge (5a). Climb straight right wards to pale patch of rock on thin holds (5b). Move up on good small finger holds to the top.

'''SLI NA FIRINE''' 30m S
K Higgins P Stronach 13/6/81
Varied with slab climbing and a corner requiring small wires for protection. Start; just left of the first corner right of the zig-zag break followed by ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb can easily be split into 2 pitches, the top one harder and requiring small wires for protection.

'''BOTHAR AN AIMHLEASA''' 25m S
J O?Dwyer T Daly 13/6/81
The route is easily identified from the diagram and may be split into 2 pitches at the half way ledge. The top pitch is harder requiring small wires for protection.

'''NEAMHURCHOIDEAS''' 15m V.Diff
E Smyth P Cashin 13/6/81
A good climb breaking easily through an overhang near the top after pleasant slab and crack climbing.

'''AN CEAD FAOISTIN''' 15m S
R Dean 16/6/81
A short slab finished by a hard move to a good handhold. Poor protection.

'''MNA''' 15m Diff
P Maher P Oman 14/6/81

'''FIR''' 15m Diff
V Hynes A Weber 14/6/81
Both routes provide nice climbing up twin corners at the extreme right hand side of The Slab. They may be started at sea level or at mid-height depending on the sea and the state of the tide.

'''AG SNAMH DE EAN''' 70m S
R Dean 18/6/81
A good traverse best started from the right. This leaves the crux of each pitch to the last. Traverse under the overhang of ‘NEAMHURCHOIDEAS’ along the stepped ledge of ‘AN T-OILEANACH’ and across a slab (crux) onto the belay of ‘SCOIL LINDA’. From here traverse past two recesses on the Black Wall to finish by a quartz break across the leaning break of ‘AN CAPALL GLAS’.

An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head

2021-03-21T17:31:55Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

This information is taken from New Climbs 1984. 

'''An Dún Mór, Dingle Peninsula.''' Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series. 
This sea cliff is situated west of Com Dhíneol. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers. 
'''Top Tier.''' 
'''Initiation''' 13m HS 
Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'. 
Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Haemmorrhage Heights''' 18m HS 
Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang. 
Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983 
'''Terra Infirma''' 23m HS 
Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'. 
Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection). 
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983. 

'''Bottom Tier.''' 

Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner. 
'''PJ's Flight''' 13m MS 
Start; above small rock pool at little alcove. 
Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980 
'''Seal Sights''' 10m S. 
Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'. 
Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982 
'''Moon Dance''' 13m VS 
Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance' 
Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce). 
M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982 
'''Zipper''' 15m MS 
Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'. 
Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Pat's Hat''' 15m S 
5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn. 
'''Horace''' 15m VD 
Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Pinch''' 16m VD 
Start: 10m L of 'Horace'. 
Climb crack to L-hand side of slab. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Adrian's Wall''' 23m HS 
Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb. 
Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney. 
P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.

Com an Lochaigh

2021-03-21T17:30:34Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.

The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015''

Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016''

This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

Brandon East Buttress

2021-03-21T17:29:52Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

This information is taken from New Climbs 1984.

The buttress is situated in the Esk valley, just south-east of Cnoc Bréanainn. It is an obvious large wall rising up to 165m. The wall comes into condition after a few days of dry weather. It is divided at 250 ft., by a large grass terrace, which can be used as an escape route to the L.

'''Place of Penance''' 165m VS

Start: the climb is situated just L of the centre of the buttress, starting at the obvious gully.

1/. 27m VD Climb gully to belay on large ledge on R.

2/. 20m HS Climb up to reach large crack (protection good). Belay at top of crack on small ledge.

3/. 13m VS L-hand wall can be wet. Climb up to crack. Climb crack, using flake on L-hand wall to lay-back. Belay on grass ledge. Point of aid used due to slippery conditions.

4/. 20m S From belay climb crack slightly to the R, to reach the large grass terrace.

5/. 42m HS The top half of the buttress is divided by a large gully. Just L of the gully and slightly R of large crack, climb arete on delicate holds to reach overhang. Turn overhang on R to belay at grass ledge facing gully.

6/. 42m HS Climb crack in corner. Continue on, to climb three short walls that are split by cracks (protection good).

Alpine style climbing for 135m. Continue on to the Cnoc Bréanainn Summit.

M. Barry, P. Quinn (alternate leads). July 1983

Ceann Sibéal

2021-03-21T17:26:40Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

Location: The attempts at climbing on Ceann Sibéal in 1956 were confined to a series of clean, conglomerate pinnacles at the extreme south-west end. The geography of the region is sketched very roughly in the following diagrams. There are essentially two parallel lines of pinnacles, each running north to south into the sea.

Ceann Sibéal - south-west end.

The ridges and pinnacles as seen directly from above:

[[Image:sybil1.gif]]

The main ridge and pinnacles as seen from the west:

[[image:sybil2.gif]]

Approach: Descend a couple of steps of the Main Stepped Ridge, and then descend to the gully between that and the Pinnacle and Ridge. Descend the gully to the gap north of Pinnacle A. Cross Pinnacle A, Pinnacle B and Pinnacle C. Traverse around Pinnacle C and descend from a nick to the Small Pinnacle.

WEST FACE 55m V.Diff 
B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956 
This climb takes the easiest line up the west fact of Pinnacle C from the top of the Small Pinnacle. It is not hard, but it is exposed and slightly rotten. 

1. 30m. Ascend the face on pebbly holds to the nick. 
2. 25m. Traverse left from the nick, do a long pull-up and zigzag up.

'''The following information is taken from New Climbs 1986 & 1989. '''

Ceann Sibéal - Dingle Peninsula. Sheet 70 OS Discovery Series GR Q 314 064

'''Hidden Slab.''' The slab is directly up from the Dún an óir Hotel, where the cliffs dip down to their lowest point, about 200m east of the look-out tower. A wall runs down from the top of the crag to the small village and the hotel. The rock is a hard, very clean sandstone at an angle of 70 degrees. The inclined surface is the bedding plane of an ancient beach, with the water ripple marks providing friction holds for climbing. The slab runs almost the entire height of the cliff, recessed amidst magnificent rock architecture.

'''Arabia Deserta''' 100m HVS 4b, 5a, 4c 
This climb takes the most obvious line up the slab, a crack-line running straight up the L-hand (east) side, to mid-height, and then diagonally R-wards across the slab to finish on a grassy rake. The start of the climb is reached by scrambling down onto a grassy rake on the west side of the slab, and abseiling down for three rope lengths to large ledges at the bottom. The top abseil rope should probably be left in situ for a secure belay for the final pitch. 
1/. 40m 4b Climb the crack for 40m to belay at a good ledge. 
2/. 40m 5a Continue straight up the crack for 15m. Traverse R and continue up a thin crack, trending diagonall R-wards. Belay near a small incut ledge. (Abseil rope used for belay). 
3/. 20m 4c Continue up the crack to the diagonal grassy rake on the R-hand side of the crag. 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt (alternate leads). May 1986 
Note: with 50m ropes the route may be done in two pitches. The bottom belay should be taken in the recess above the main ledge, and the halfway belay should be taken a full rope length up the crack, just before it joins the L-hand corner of the slab, at a point where a thin crack branches off diagonally R, which is the second pitch. 

'''The Empty Quarter''' 65m E1 54, 4b 
This climb takes a meandering line up the central blank face of the upper half of the slab. This central section stands out somewhat from the rest of the slab, and is delineated at times by a vague overlap to either side. Protection is somewhat marginal in places, consisting mostly of No. 4, 5 & 6 rocks. placed on their backs in horizontal breaks (carry lots of each). The two pegs are more or less useless, though they serve somewhat to mark the line of the route. The grade given is for a pre-inspected ascent. 
Start: Just above the halfway belay of "Arabia Deserta" (in the corner on the L of the slab) in a position where it is just possible to see the upper half of the slab. 
1/. 40m Climb out R and then up towards a triangular recess in the face (good protection). Pass the recess on the R-hand side and climb diagonally R with very marginal protection to a peg. From above the peg traverse back L to another knife-blade peg, where somewhat better protection may be found. Climb straight up quartz for 3m and then move diagonally L-wards across fairly blank rock to the R-hand side of ledge to belay. 
2/. 25m. Climb up the corner/arete and sometimes on the L wall , crossing a grass ledge, until broken ground is reached. Belay. Traverse off into the grass gully to the L of the face. 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob 5th June 1989. 

Note: the L-hand corner, running the full length of the upper slab, has been climbed by a party that included D. Somers. Apart from it being at a 'reasonable grade' further details are not known.

'''SOUTHERN BUTTRESS''' 

'''Access:''' On the south side of the head, two square buttresses are separated by an equally large square cut shallow recess. Abseil to a large ledge beneath the centre of the buttress that lies to the west. This abseil is a continuous 110m; take care with sharp edges near the top. 

'''Magic Island,''' 100m, HVS 5a, 5a, 5a, Peter Britton, Colm Ennis 1/8/2010 
Near the right hand end of the buttress, only one obvious crack system leads most of the way up the buttress. Start from some large boulders. 
1. 33m, 5a. Enter the crack from the left and climb, via a recess, to where the crack crosses a left trending shallow ramp. Some awkward moves at the top of the ramp lead to the belay to the right near a horizontal quartz vein. 
2. 29m, 5a. Climb the steep (size 3 cam) crack with excellent jamming moves until the crack terminates at a slab. 
3. 38m 5a. (This recommended finish climbed by Stephen Galway, 21/8/2010.) Traverse delicately leftwards on a slab, with scant protection, firstly under a large square recess, then past a shallow left facing 3m corner and on to the left extremity of the slab from where the headwall above is breached to easier ground. 

3.a 33m, 5a. (Original Britton-Ennis finish) Traverse leftwards as far as the shallow left facing 3m corner. Climb the corner with some committing moves and poor protection. Move then with more ease to the top. (A prussic on the abseil rope reduces the seriousness of the unprotected shallow corner and thus the grade to 4c).

Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head

2021-03-21T17:25:13Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

The attempts at climbing on Ceann Bhaile Dháith (OS Sheet 70, Discovery series. GR Q 389 114) in 1956 were confined to the extreme south-west end, where three ridges run south to two islands in the sea from a single top.

Descent: Descend the gully between the innermost ridge and the second ridge, until a gully of strangely weathered rock is reached. Descend this to a gap above a gendarme that we called the Grey Soldier, on the central ridge. Traverse around the Soldier to its other side and descend to the bottom of the ridge.

'''Grey Soldier Ridge''' 90m Severe
 ''B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956 ''1. 20m. From the easy slabs at the sea ascend the first step at its right hand side (hard) and then pull around to right of ridge. Ascend slab and traverse back onto face at top of second step. Piton belay. 2. 25m. Return to right and climb steep groove (long reach) or go straight up face. Continue up easier rock to belay on left of ridge. 3. 20m. Up onto ridge and continue along edge to belay at base of Grey Soldier. 4. 25m. Up ridge to Soldier. Ascend this by chimney on left and descend the same way. 5. Climb the next pinnacle by a few moves up the face and then traverse right. 6. A further 70-100m of climbing can be obtained up the ridge. It is quite interesting and strenuous, but mostly moderate and can be climbed continuously most of the way. One large gendarme is taken slightly to the right.

The following information is taken from New Climbs 1993 - 1995.

The following climbs are located on a big slab of rock below and somewhat west of the watchtower. From An Fheothanach take the road north for Cuas an Bhodaigh. Immediately after crossing a bridge, turn L in the direction of the headland and drive as far up as the road will go, to park in the settlement. Walk up the boreen and then uphill until the cliff-line is reached (20 mins).
Follow the ridge north-east in the direction of the watchtower until a very prominent rock is encountered right on the cliff edge. It is approximately 300m west of the watchtower where an indistinct wall coming down from same fades out. This rock is made up of 2/3 perched blocks pointing out to sea and is unmistakable. 
Scramble down the grassy hillside just east of the boulder with extreme caution, until the cliff is reached. Belay on a small buttress (about 4m high with a cleft running right through it) above the slab and abseil down (about three rope lengths) to some ledges at a zawn and a huge cave. Many of the ledges are non-tidal. 
The cliff is a huge slab, 135m or so in height, formed from a single tilted bedding plane of sandstone, similar to [[Ceann Sibéal]], though steeper and smoother. The rock is very clean and eminently climable. The potential for more routes is high, though they are likely to be of a higher grade than those reported here. The location is magnificent.

'''Atlantic Ocean''' HVS 5a 135m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1994. ''This route follows a line from the bottom R-hand side of the slab diagonally up to a ledge one third of the way up. It continues up the centre of the faceand then veers back R into the shallow corner running up the the upper half of the wall. Start: around the corner of the main slab at its west end, the side away from the cave, at a short corner and cleft. This start is tidal. 1/. 10m 5a Climb up and L onto a comfortable and spacious incut ledge. 2/. 30m 5a Ascend L-wards up a ramp and crack system to the base of a clean cut corner. Arrange protection and then climb out L onto the main face and up the unprotected but relatively easy (4b) L arete of the corner to reach easy ground and good protection. Move L to belay in the centre of the face, directly below a slight recess. 3/. 25m 5a Climb up the recess with only adequate protection. At its top bear diagonally L-wards to reach a more broken area of ledges and undercut blocks (with better protection) on the edge of the seepage zone. Gain the top of a wet block to the L and climb the slab above and to the R of the block, finishing up a thin crack to gain a horizontal break to belay. This point is just level with an overhang on the L-hand wall from where the seepage emanates and is the starting point of the route "Only The Lonely". 4/. 30m 5a Traverse to the R for a few metres to a thin crack and ascend this diagonally R-wards at first and then straight up to belay where convenient on one of the small incut holds. Fairly continuous 5a throughout, though well protected. 5/. 40m 5a Continue up to the thin crack which is ascended to the top.

'''Only The Lonely''' E2 5c 60m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1995. ''This climb takes the thin crack line running up the face to the L of the upper pitches of "Atlantic Ocean". Start: from the belay at the top of the third pitch of "Atlantic Ocean". 1/. 30m 5c Climb the smooth slab (crux) to better holds and a good crack which is climbed more easily, to belay on the last good foothold just after the climbing gets hard again, and a little below a small overlap. 2/. 30m 5c Follow the crack line to where it fades out. Step R to the start of a new thin line and follow this through to a bulge at the top. This pitch has continuously sustained climbing, following a crack below finger-tip size for the most part, though there is the occasional slot. The protection is mainly small wires, rocks 4 - 6 being particularly useful. (Use plenty due to the soft nature of the rock). The largest size RP's are useful on the final section, above the last bulge.

An Charraig Ard

2021-03-21T17:17:30Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the irish

These climbs are taken from New Climbs 1983. 
This is a small sea crag found on the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula to the south of Ceann Sratha (GR Q 30 02). It can be seen as an obvious black slab to the L as you go along the road from Dún Chaoin towards Ceann Sratha. Cars can be parked off this road in a rough car park on the broad col between Ceann Sratha and An Mionnán Mór. From here a walk south-west of about 400m brings you to the top of the crag. The best descent is to the L of the crag as you approach and involves a short and easy rock step (cairned) which gives access to an extensive flat platform (non-tidal) below the cliff. The crag takes the form of a large variably-angled slab on the L and a series of corners and large overhangs on the R. The rock is a form of volcanic ash, which has weathered to pockets and sharp holds, often with a popcorn like texture. Climbs are described from L to R (west to east). 
'''Dance on a Volcano''' 40m HS 
Start: below the small square-cut overhang at the bottom centre of the main slab. 
Gain a low horizontal traverse line across a smooth grey slab and follow it delicately out above the sea (crossing the line of 'Squonk') to the edge of the main slab. Move up the arete to gain crack in the steep slab above and climb this to the top. Care is neede with loose debris when moving back to belay. 
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle. 25th August 1983. 
'''Squonk''' 35m VD 
This route takes the first deep crack L of the square-cut overhang. At low tide this crack can be climbed via a mussel and barnacle infested direct start, at other times the travers of 'Dance on a Volcano' can be followed to reach the crack higher up. 
Climb the crack and continue directly up to a short wall. Climb this to good holds to a ledge. Move to the R end of this ledge, step up, and follow flakes and cracks slanting slightly L to the top. 
T. McQueen 25th August 1983. 
'''Skome''' 30m HS 
Makes a line between 'Squonk' and 'Nodding Dog', starting below the small square-cut overhang. 
Scramble up and move L to the base of steep wall. Climb this on fragile pockets and move up the slab above. Finish steeply just L of a prominent skyline block on large, but brittle, holds. 
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle 25th August 1983. 
'''Nodding Dog''' 30m D. 
Start as for 'Skome'. 
Move easily up over the small overhang and up to the highest of R-ward trending ledges below a bulge. Climb this directly, or side-step it on the R to gain a flakey crack which leads straight up past a yellow patch of rock to the top. 
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982. 
'''Indirect Route''' 50m M 
This route follows a line of least resistance, rather like a "question mark" up the main slab, starting at an easy fault a few metres R of 'Skome' and finishing at the top L of the crag, just R of 'Dance on a Volcano'. 
T. McQueen 28th August, 1983. 
'''Geologists Hammer''' 30m S 
Start: on the main face, about 4m L of the triangular recess capped by an overhang. 
Climb easily and directly up to meet the crack running up from the L end of the overhang. Move up this, pull up and climb a shallow groove L of a corner to the top. 
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982. 
'''Scare''' 35m HS 
Start: in the triangular recess. 
Follow the L side of the recess to join 'Geologists Hammer' at the L end of the overhang. Move up and traverse R across the base of the slab above the overhangto reach arete. Step up and swing onto arete from L using good pockets and flakes (exposed). Follow arete and crack to the top. 
T. McQueen 24th August, 1983.

Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head

2021-03-21T17:06:56Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the mentions of the crag to the irish

The attempts at climbing on Ceann Bhaile Dháith (OS Sheet 70, Discovery series. GR Q 389 114) in 1956 were confined to the extreme south-west end, where three ridges run south to two islands in the sea from a single top.

Descent: Descend the gully between the innermost ridge and the second ridge, until a gully of strangely weathered rock is reached. Descend this to a gap above a gendarme that we called the Grey Soldier, on the central ridge. Traverse around the Soldier to its other side and descend to the bottom of the ridge.

'''Grey Soldier Ridge''' 90m Severe
 ''B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956 ''1. 20m. From the easy slabs at the sea ascend the first step at its right hand side (hard) and then pull around to right of ridge. Ascend slab and traverse back onto face at top of second step. Piton belay. 2. 25m. Return to right and climb steep groove (long reach) or go straight up face. Continue up easier rock to belay on left of ridge. 3. 20m. Up onto ridge and continue along edge to belay at base of Grey Soldier. 4. 25m. Up ridge to Soldier. Ascend this by chimney on left and descend the same way. 5. Climb the next pinnacle by a few moves up the face and then traverse right. 6. A further 70-100m of climbing can be obtained up the ridge. It is quite interesting and strenuous, but mostly moderate and can be climbed continuously most of the way. One large gendarme is taken slightly to the right.

The following information is taken from New Climbs 1993 - 1995.

The following climbs are located on a big slab of rock below and somewhat west of the watchtower. From Feohanagh take the road north for Brandon Creek. Immediately after crossing a bridge, turn L in the direction of the headland and drive as far up as the road will go, to park in the settlement. Walk up the boreen and then uphill until the cliff-line is reached (20 mins).
Follow the ridge north-east in the direction of the watchtower until a very prominent rock is encountered right on the cliff edge. It is approximately 300m west of the watchtower where an indistinct wall coming down from same fades out. This rock is made up of 2/3 perched blocks pointing out to sea and is unmistakable. 
Scramble down the grassy hillside just east of the boulder with extreme caution, until the cliff is reached. Belay on a small buttress (about 4m high with a cleft running right through it) above the slab and abseil down (about three rope lengths) to some ledges at a zawn and a huge cave. Many of the ledges are non-tidal. 
The cliff is a huge slab, 135m or so in height, formed from a single tilted bedding plane of sandstone, similar to Sybil Head, though steeper and smoother. The rock is very clean and eminently climable. The potential for more routes is high, though they are likely to be of a higher grade than those reported here. The location is magnificent.

'''Atlantic Ocean''' HVS 5a 135m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1994. ''This route follows a line from the bottom R-hand side of the slab diagonally up to a ledge one third of the way up. It continues up the centre of the faceand then veers back R into the shallow corner running up the the upper half of the wall. Start: around the corner of the main slab at its west end, the side away from the cave, at a short corner and cleft. This start is tidal. 1/. 10m 5a Climb up and L onto a comfortable and spacious incut ledge. 2/. 30m 5a Ascend L-wards up a ramp and crack system to the base of a clean cut corner. Arrange protection and then climb out L onto the main face and up the unprotected but relatively easy (4b) L arete of the corner to reach easy ground and good protection. Move L to belay in the centre of the face, directly below a slight recess. 3/. 25m 5a Climb up the recess with only adequate protection. At its top bear diagonally L-wards to reach a more broken area of ledges and undercut blocks (with better protection) on the edge of the seepage zone. Gain the top of a wet block to the L and climb the slab above and to the R of the block, finishing up a thin crack to gain a horizontal break to belay. This point is just level with an overhang on the L-hand wall from where the seepage emanates and is the starting point of the route "Only The Lonely". 4/. 30m 5a Traverse to the R for a few metres to a thin crack and ascend this diagonally R-wards at first and then straight up to belay where convenient on one of the small incut holds. Fairly continuous 5a throughout, though well protected. 5/. 40m 5a Continue up to the thin crack which is ascended to the top.

'''Only The Lonely''' E2 5c 60m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1995. ''This climb takes the thin crack line running up the face to the L of the upper pitches of "Atlantic Ocean". Start: from the belay at the top of the third pitch of "Atlantic Ocean". 1/. 30m 5c Climb the smooth slab (crux) to better holds and a good crack which is climbed more easily, to belay on the last good foothold just after the climbing gets hard again, and a little below a small overlap. 2/. 30m 5c Follow the crack line to where it fades out. Step R to the start of a new thin line and follow this through to a bulge at the top. This pitch has continuously sustained climbing, following a crack below finger-tip size for the most part, though there is the occasional slot. The protection is mainly small wires, rocks 4 - 6 being particularly useful. (Use plenty due to the soft nature of the rock). The largest size RP's are useful on the final section, above the last bulge.

Irish Climbing Wiki

2021-03-21T17:01:33Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Dingle Peninsula \ Corcha Duibhne */ Updating the links to match their new Irish page names

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.mournesclimbers.com Mournes]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

Old Link: [http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=23&Submit=Go Dunseverick], New Link: [https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag rather than a GR for the Parking?)

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Dingle Peninsula / Corcha Duibhne===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[The Playbank]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]] (Anyone have a grid reference for this?)

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]], [[Carrick Mountain 2]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

Carrigard

2021-03-21T16:58:53Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Carrigard to An Charraig Ard: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/1394032)

#REDIRECT [[An Charraig Ard]]

An Charraig Ard

2021-03-21T16:58:53Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Carrigard to An Charraig Ard: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/1394032)

These climbs are taken from New Climbs 1983. 
This is a small sea crag found on the western tip of the Dingle Peninsula to the south of Clogher Head (GR Q 30 02). It can be seen as an obvious black slab to the L as you go along the road from Dunquin towards Clogher Head. Cars can be parked off this road in a rough car park on the broad col between Clogher Head and Minnaunmore Rock. From here a walk south-west of about 400m brings you to the top of the crag. The best descent is to the L of the crag as you approach and involves a short and easy rock step (cairned) which gives access to an extensive flat platform (non-tidal) below the cliff. The crag takes the form of a large variably-angled slab on the L and a series of corners and large overhangs on the R. The rock is a form of volcanic ash, which has weathered to pockets and sharp holds, often with a popcorn like texture. Climbs are described from L to R (west to east). 
'''Dance on a Volcano''' 40m HS 
Start: below the small square-cut overhang at the bottom centre of the main slab. 
Gain a low horizontal traverse line across a smooth grey slab and follow it delicately out above the sea (crossing the line of 'Squonk') to the edge of the main slab. Move up the arete to gain crack in the steep slab above and climb this to the top. Care is neede with loose debris when moving back to belay. 
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle. 25th August 1983. 
'''Squonk''' 35m VD 
This route takes the first deep crack L of the square-cut overhang. At low tide this crack can be climbed via a mussel and barnacle infested direct start, at other times the travers of 'Dance on a Volcano' can be followed to reach the crack higher up. 
Climb the crack and continue directly up to a short wall. Climb this to good holds to a ledge. Move to the R end of this ledge, step up, and follow flakes and cracks slanting slightly L to the top. 
T. McQueen 25th August 1983. 
'''Skome''' 30m HS 
Makes a line between 'Squonk' and 'Nodding Dog', starting below the small square-cut overhang. 
Scramble up and move L to the base of steep wall. Climb this on fragile pockets and move up the slab above. Finish steeply just L of a prominent skyline block on large, but brittle, holds. 
T. McQueen, A. Lyttle 25th August 1983. 
'''Nodding Dog''' 30m D. 
Start as for 'Skome'. 
Move easily up over the small overhang and up to the highest of R-ward trending ledges below a bulge. Climb this directly, or side-step it on the R to gain a flakey crack which leads straight up past a yellow patch of rock to the top. 
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982. 
'''Indirect Route''' 50m M 
This route follows a line of least resistance, rather like a "question mark" up the main slab, starting at an easy fault a few metres R of 'Skome' and finishing at the top L of the crag, just R of 'Dance on a Volcano'. 
T. McQueen 28th August, 1983. 
'''Geologists Hammer''' 30m S 
Start: on the main face, about 4m L of the triangular recess capped by an overhang. 
Climb easily and directly up to meet the crack running up from the L end of the overhang. Move up this, pull up and climb a shallow groove L of a corner to the top. 
T. McQueen, S. King. June 1982. 
'''Scare''' 35m HS 
Start: in the triangular recess. 
Follow the L side of the recess to join 'Geologists Hammer' at the L end of the overhang. Move up and traverse R across the base of the slab above the overhangto reach arete. Step up and swing onto arete from L using good pockets and flakes (exposed). Follow arete and crack to the top. 
T. McQueen 24th August, 1983.

Three Sisters (Smerwick Harbour)

2021-03-21T16:53:30Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Three Sisters (Smerwick Harbour) to Binn Diarmada: Describes only one climb on the side of one of three heads, calling the crag "three sisters" casts too large a net. (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/1393903?s=Binn+Diarmada)

#REDIRECT [[Binn Diarmada]]

Binn Diarmada

2021-03-21T16:53:30Z

Three Sisters. OS discovery Sheet 70 GR 356 088 

'''Crooked Sister''' E2 5b 50m 
This climb is situated on the cliffs to the west of of the eastern-most of the Three Sisters, and follows a well defined overhanging corner with a marked overhang at about half height. 
Access. Travel through the settlement of Smerwick and continue on to the east along the boreen to its end, where it is possible to park and turn a car. Walk north to the lowest point of the cliff line, about 15 minutes. Scramble down the slab just east of a zawn and then traverse along rock pavements and rock fall debris in an easterly direction. The corner of "Crooked Sister" is immediately obvious in the middle of a large impending wall, just beyond a large rockfall and about 100m short of the large cave. 
The line of the route is obvious and is climbed in one long pitch. The final belay is in a deep cleft a few meters above and to the R of the last steep section. 
The rock is relatively fragile, though not loose, so use lots of protection, large to medium rocks and hexes, but save a few 8's and 9's for the extreme overhang. Friends are disappointing, especially in the lower section. 
The climb is steeper, and therefore, harder than it looks. Don't lose heart at the overhang. There is a 'no hands' rest immediately above and the upper section offers rough rock with good holds, jams and protection. 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1993.

Sybil Head

2021-03-21T16:45:07Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Sybil Head to Ceann Sibéal: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/1165708?s=Ceann+Sib%c3%a9al). Going to just use the Irish here

#REDIRECT [[Ceann Sibéal]]

Ceann Sibéal

2021-03-21T16:45:07Z

Location: The attempts at climbing on Sybil Head in 1956 were confined to a series of clean, conglomerate pinnacles at the extreme south-west end. The geography of the region is sketched very roughly in the following diagrams. There are essentially two parallel lines of pinnacles, each running north to south into the sea.

Sybil Head - south-west end.

The ridges and pinnacles as seen directly from above:

[[Image:sybil1.gif]]

The main ridge and pinnacles as seen from the west:

[[image:sybil2.gif]]

Approach: Descend a couple of steps of the Main Stepped Ridge, and then descend to the gully between that and the Pinnacle and Ridge. Descend the gully to the gap north of Pinnacle A. Cross Pinnacle A, Pinnacle B and Pinnacle C. Traverse around Pinnacle C and descend from a nick to the Small Pinnacle.

WEST FACE 55m V.Diff 
B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956 
This climb takes the easiest line up the west fact of Pinnacle C from the top of the Small Pinnacle. It is not hard, but it is exposed and slightly rotten. 

1. 30m. Ascend the face on pebbly holds to the nick. 
2. 25m. Traverse left from the nick, do a long pull-up and zigzag up.

'''The following information is taken from New Climbs 1986 & 1989. '''

Sybil Head - Dingle Peninsula. Sheet 70 OS Discovery Series GR Q 314 064

'''Hidden Slab.''' The slab is directly up from the Dún an óir Hotel, where the cliffs dip down to their lowest point, about 200m east of the look-out tower. A wall runs down from the top of the crag to the small village and the hotel. The rock is a hard, very clean sandstone at an angle of 70 degrees. The inclined surface is the bedding plane of an ancient beach, with the water ripple marks providing friction holds for climbing. The slab runs almost the entire height of the cliff, recessed amidst magnificent rock architecture.

'''Arabia Deserta''' 100m HVS 4b, 5a, 4c 
This climb takes the most obvious line up the slab, a crack-line running straight up the L-hand (east) side, to mid-height, and then diagonally R-wards across the slab to finish on a grassy rake. The start of the climb is reached by scrambling down onto a grassy rake on the west side of the slab, and abseiling down for three rope lengths to large ledges at the bottom. The top abseil rope should probably be left in situ for a secure belay for the final pitch. 
1/. 40m 4b Climb the crack for 40m to belay at a good ledge. 
2/. 40m 5a Continue straight up the crack for 15m. Traverse R and continue up a thin crack, trending diagonall R-wards. Belay near a small incut ledge. (Abseil rope used for belay). 
3/. 20m 4c Continue up the crack to the diagonal grassy rake on the R-hand side of the crag. 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt (alternate leads). May 1986 
Note: with 50m ropes the route may be done in two pitches. The bottom belay should be taken in the recess above the main ledge, and the halfway belay should be taken a full rope length up the crack, just before it joins the L-hand corner of the slab, at a point where a thin crack branches off diagonally R, which is the second pitch. 

'''The Empty Quarter''' 65m E1 54, 4b 
This climb takes a meandering line up the central blank face of the upper half of the slab. This central section stands out somewhat from the rest of the slab, and is delineated at times by a vague overlap to either side. Protection is somewhat marginal in places, consisting mostly of No. 4, 5 & 6 rocks. placed on their backs in horizontal breaks (carry lots of each). The two pegs are more or less useless, though they serve somewhat to mark the line of the route. The grade given is for a pre-inspected ascent. 
Start: Just above the halfway belay of "Arabia Deserta" (in the corner on the L of the slab) in a position where it is just possible to see the upper half of the slab. 
1/. 40m Climb out R and then up towards a triangular recess in the face (good protection). Pass the recess on the R-hand side and climb diagonally R with very marginal protection to a peg. From above the peg traverse back L to another knife-blade peg, where somewhat better protection may be found. Climb straight up quartz for 3m and then move diagonally L-wards across fairly blank rock to the R-hand side of ledge to belay. 
2/. 25m. Climb up the corner/arete and sometimes on the L wall , crossing a grass ledge, until broken ground is reached. Belay. Traverse off into the grass gully to the L of the face. 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob 5th June 1989. 

Note: the L-hand corner, running the full length of the upper slab, has been climbed by a party that included D. Somers. Apart from it being at a 'reasonable grade' further details are not known.

'''SOUTHERN BUTTRESS''' 

'''Access:''' On the south side of the head, two square buttresses are separated by an equally large square cut shallow recess. Abseil to a large ledge beneath the centre of the buttress that lies to the west. This abseil is a continuous 110m; take care with sharp edges near the top. 

'''Magic Island,''' 100m, HVS 5a, 5a, 5a, Peter Britton, Colm Ennis 1/8/2010 
Near the right hand end of the buttress, only one obvious crack system leads most of the way up the buttress. Start from some large boulders. 
1. 33m, 5a. Enter the crack from the left and climb, via a recess, to where the crack crosses a left trending shallow ramp. Some awkward moves at the top of the ramp lead to the belay to the right near a horizontal quartz vein. 
2. 29m, 5a. Climb the steep (size 3 cam) crack with excellent jamming moves until the crack terminates at a slab. 
3. 38m 5a. (This recommended finish climbed by Stephen Galway, 21/8/2010.) Traverse delicately leftwards on a slab, with scant protection, firstly under a large square recess, then past a shallow left facing 3m corner and on to the left extremity of the slab from where the headwall above is breached to easier ground. 

3.a 33m, 5a. (Original Britton-Ennis finish) Traverse leftwards as far as the shallow left facing 3m corner. Climb the corner with some committing moves and poor protection. Move then with more ease to the top. (A prussic on the abseil rope reduces the seriousness of the unprotected shallow corner and thus the grade to 4c).

Sauce Creek

2021-03-21T16:40:56Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Sauce Creek to An Sás / Sauce Creek: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/1394882?s=An+S%c3%a1s). I don't know why the name on UKC is in the ginideach but I'm not 100% sure I will ever understand the tuiseal ginideach so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

#REDIRECT [[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

An Sás / Sauce Creek

2021-03-21T16:40:56Z

Location:

[https://www.google.com/maps/place/Sauce+Creek/@52.2745273,-10.2228026,14.58z/data=!4m5!3m4!1s0x4850003d3ac7de65:0xbdc532465030f743!8m2!3d52.2724952!4d-10.2104133 Google Maps]

Description:

Info on Sauce Creek sent in from Stephen Mc Auliffe on 12/10/2016 - "Myself and Francis Jan Kluzniak went to An t’Sáis (Sauce creek on the maps) near Mt Brandon yesterday to have a look at a rock face that as far as I know hasn’t been climbed. I have attached a picture of the face and the three routes we did are marked on it. As I say I can find no record of this crag being climbed but perhaps I am wrong. Even so it was a superb day out in a stunning place."

[[File:Sauce creek.jpg]]

Red I called Playing it safe and it is 35mtrs Mod

Blue I called Reaching for the sky and is 30mtrs Diff

Green I called Edge of Heaven and is 40mtrs VDiff***

Great Blasket Island

2021-03-21T16:34:42Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Great Blasket Island to An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/ga/22578?s=An+Blascaod+M%c3%b3r)

#REDIRECT [[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island

2021-03-21T16:34:42Z

A Tiglin group visited the island in June and twenty five new routes were put up at An Gob of which brief descriptions are given here.

Access; From the harbour a short walk due south will cross several old field boundaries before reaching a rounded spur running east down to Gob Point. From this spur, which itself is defined a field boundary, a route should be found on a descending traverse south west to the top of The Slab. The descent to the long ledge below The Slab and Black Wall follows a series of large easy steps on the north eastern edge of The Slab. This ledge is just above the level of high water spring tides, but is not safe if heavy seas are running. In this case a higher traverse into the climbs can easily be made. To reach the base of climbs in Chimney Scoop an easy descent can be made from the south western end of the cliff or by climbing ?Sli amach? from below Black Wall.

[[File:blasket.jpg]]

The rock is old red sandstone and requires care, there is a mention of a guide and diagrams been produced maybe someone knows where they are ?

'''Climbs in Chimney Scoop'''

'''THE MUTATION''' 30m VS 4b
R Dean belayed by J Domoney 15/6/81
A difficult start and difficulty in placing gear make this an unusual climb.
Start; at the foot of a large deep chimney, The route climbs the outside of the chimney’s retaining left wall, gained by a step left from the belay and difficult moves up a steep black wall. A short move right then cracks to the top. 

'''Sanity Clause''' 26m VS 
(4b) Climb the chimney immediately R of 'The Mutation'. The bottom half can be slippery. 
S. O'Riordan, J. Domoney 1st June 1982. (New Climbs 1982) 

'''AN PORT'''
R Dean 15/6/81
A short and elegant route up the curved arête 8 m right of the deep chiney. Short and unprotected.
Start; at the foot of the arête beneath the left crack of three fine parallel cracks. The line of the arête is followed past a small break on the left to large finishing jugs. 

'''Sandman Slab''' 15m E1 (one aid nut) 
A direct line up the slab 1m L of 'An Port'. The crux isat mid-height, where an RP was used for aid. 
D. O'Connell. E. O'Flynn 1982.(New Climbs 1982). 
'''Sandman'''
Now goes free at E2 5b/c 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''The Pass.''' VS 4b/c 
Climb the obvious layback crack L of the 'Sandman' slab. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''AN RINCEOIR''' 15m V.Diff
P. Stronach 15/6/81
A good route with a fine line taking the biggest of three parallel cracks. Start; just right of ‘AN PORT’ by about 2 m. Climb straight up the crack using laybacks and good jugs. Continue up short arête to top on good holds. 

'''Boys Own''' VD/S 
Wall R of 'An Rinceoir', finishing up corner above.
S. Reidy, E. Gallagher. June 1984. (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Luidím Maclú'''
As for 'Boys Own' then move R to corner. 
E. Gallagher, S. Reidy June 1984. 

'''AN CLOCHAN''' 15m V.Diff
T Owens T Daly 15/6/81
A pleasant layback and an exposed finish.
Start; on large ledge 6 m from base of crag and in the very back of chimney Scoop. Follow edge of obvious flake to left end of a ledge. Continue up corner above to a good stance. 

'''Wee Nick''' 5a 
The wall and overhang between 'An Clochan' and 'The Low Lintel'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984.(New Climbs 1984). 

'''THE LOW LINTEL''' 20m S
R Dean 15/6/81
A crux near the top.
Start; at the sea-level ledge 4 m right of a large pulpit of rock and beneath small rightward-facing corners.
Climb corners to the second quartz break then the slab above just left of a left-facing corner. Exit up ‘AN CLOCHAN’ or across the tops of ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘FLUICHRAS’ . 

'''Sailor Boy''' HVS 5a/b 
The slabs and overhangs between 'The Low Lintel' and 'Deora na Maighdine'. 
C. Torrans, S. Reidy. June 1984 

'''DEORA NA MAIGHDINE''' 20m S
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
Start; at the sea level ledge 4 m right of ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ and below an overhanging corner.
Climb up to corner on small positive holds past a large band of quartz with large crystals to a ledge. Move slightly left and up a small crack and corner to top ledge. Good protection throughout.

'''FLUICHRAS''' 25m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 15/6/81
A route worth doing – looks a bit improbable, but is all there. This route takes the line straight up the middle of the protruding slab on the right hand side of Chimney Scoop.
Start; from the sea-level ledge climb straight up the slab to a small overhang above the quartz vein. Climb the overhang and continue up the steeper slab above to bulge. Continue over bulge {crux} and up slab using small holds and crack. Move left on the ledge above and continue up crack to top. Protection good.

'''CEANN DUBH''' 20m HS
K Higgins P Stronach 15/6/81
Start; 3 m left of the right hand boundary of Chimney Scoop and beneath the protruding slab. The overhang above is split by a corner. Climb the slab and corner to the top.<br

'''Climbs on Black Wall'''

'''SLI AMACH''' 5m V.Diff
R Dean 15/6/81
A good way of reaching Chimney Scoop from Black Wall. Start; at the extreme left end of the sea ledge below Black Wall is a wide shallow chimney. Climb the back wall of the chimney. A short walk along the top of ‘CEANN DUBH’, ‘FLUICHRAS’, ‘DEORA NA MAIGHDINE’ and ‘THE LOW LINTEL’ allows a descent of the lower section of ‘AN CLOCHAN’.

'''AN CAPALL GLAS''' 20m HS
P O'Leary E Smith 15/6/81
An attractive line. Start; as for ‘SLI AMACH’. Climb the corner that forms the left boundary of Black Wall where it meets a leaning buttress. 

'''Bogna''' HS/VS 
The groove and wall just R of 'An Capall Glas'. (Difficulties can be avoided). 
C. Torrans, S. McCauley June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Swirls''' S. 
The obvious line L of 'Faoi Dheire'. 
C. Torrans, M. Macpherson. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984) 

'''Wee Nuke''' S 
Wall just L of ' Faoi Dheire'.
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''Hairy Dog''' S 
Fault line R of 'Wee Nuke'. 
C. Torrans, M. Somers. June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''FAOI DHEIRE''' 40m S
T Daly P Stronach 17/6/81
A pleasant route making a line linking the two obvious recesses.
Start; outside the first recess and climb arête on the left hand side of corner until the second recess is reached. Climb the obvious corner above this to top. The top of this climb is a little loose, as is most of the top of Black Wall. Protection pretty good. 

'''Delman''' S 
Fault line in between 'Faoi Dheire' and 'Tobar na Sidhe' 
C. Torrans, June 1984 (New Climbs 1984). 

'''TOBAR NA SIDHE''' 40m S
P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
This route takes a line straight up from about 6 m left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’ and about 3 m left of the grey-green slab on which ‘CEATHRU’ runs. Start; from the main sea-level ledge. Climb up to a small overhang in wall right of a quartz vein. Continue up two parallel s-shaped cracks to top. Protection fair.

'''CEATHRU''' 40m S
C Torrans P Stronach 18/6/81
This route takes an obvious line straight up the grey-green slab on the right -hand side of the Black Wall and just left of ‘SCOILT LINDA’. Start; at the bottom of the Slab and climb it straight up it to top. Protection good.

Climbs on the Slab

'''SCOILT LINDA''' 35m V.Diff
L McGee E Smith (alt leads) 14/6/81
A Classic. Good protection in the crack. Start; at the base of the crack dividing The Slab and the Black Wall.
1. 15m Climb the crack to a good stance on a pillar in the crack.
2. 20m Climb the crack above to the top.

'''FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS''' 35m E1 5b
R Dean P Stronach J Domoney 16/6/81
Small wires and good eyesight to arrange protection.
Start; below the zig-zag break. Climb this to a flake above and on the right, then delicately up the slab on small secure holds. (Good small wires.)

'''PEIG''' 35m HVS 5a
R Dean P Stronach 18/6/81
Start; 2 m right of ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb continues parallel to’FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’ passing 2 m left of a short overhung leftward facing corner at mid height, the line of ‘AN T-OILLEANACH’. to gain a weak break above a faint overhang. Up this to deep crack and the top.

'''AN T-OILEANACH''' 30m VS 4c
P Stronach K Higgins 14/6/81
A real gem of a climb. Well protected and producing a fine position. This route runs straight up the middle of the main slab breaking through the overhanging corner which is at mid height.
Start; directly below the overhanging corner. Climb a thin crack past the stepped ledge to the overhang. Climb this stepping right on the slab above. Continue up rightward-trending break above.

'''AN BEAL BOCHT''' 30m E1 5b
C Torrans J Domoney 18/6/81
Scarce protection. The route is approximately 2 m left of the corner on ‘SLI NA FIRINE’. Start; up easy slabs to small overhang. Climb this by undercuts to small edge (5a). Climb straight right wards to pale patch of rock on thin holds (5b). Move up on good small finger holds to the top.

'''SLI NA FIRINE''' 30m S
K Higgins P Stronach 13/6/81
Varied with slab climbing and a corner requiring small wires for protection. Start; just left of the first corner right of the zig-zag break followed by ‘FICHE BLIAIN AG FAS’. The climb can easily be split into 2 pitches, the top one harder and requiring small wires for protection.

'''BOTHAR AN AIMHLEASA''' 25m S
J O?Dwyer T Daly 13/6/81
The route is easily identified from the diagram and may be split into 2 pitches at the half way ledge. The top pitch is harder requiring small wires for protection.

'''NEAMHURCHOIDEAS''' 15m V.Diff
E Smyth P Cashin 13/6/81
A good climb breaking easily through an overhang near the top after pleasant slab and crack climbing.

'''AN CEAD FAOISTIN''' 15m S
R Dean 16/6/81
A short slab finished by a hard move to a good handhold. Poor protection.

'''MNA''' 15m Diff
P Maher P Oman 14/6/81

'''FIR''' 15m Diff
V Hynes A Weber 14/6/81
Both routes provide nice climbing up twin corners at the extreme right hand side of The Slab. They may be started at sea level or at mid-height depending on the sea and the state of the tide.

'''AG SNAMH DE EAN''' 70m S
R Dean 18/6/81
A good traverse best started from the right. This leaves the crux of each pitch to the last. Traverse under the overhang of ‘NEAMHURCHOIDEAS’ along the stepped ledge of ‘AN T-OILEANACH’ and across a slab (crux) onto the belay of ‘SCOIL LINDA’. From here traverse past two recesses on the Black Wall to finish by a quartz break across the leaning break of ‘AN CAPALL GLAS’.

Dunshean Head/Dún Séanna

2021-03-21T16:30:43Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Dunshean Head/Dún Séanna to Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head: Just swapping the order of the words to put Irish first for a gaeltacht crag. Interestingly sign-posted as Dún Síon and in logainm as Dún Séann without the final a but as the only one in the guidebook I'm not going to cause any aditional confusion. https://www.logainm.ie/en/22620?s=D%c3%ban+S%c3%a9ann

#REDIRECT [[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head

2021-03-21T16:30:43Z

'''Due to increased numbers visiting Dún Séanna/Dunshean Head, the landowner, Patrick Farrell has put new access arrangements in place which prevent the need to cross fields to reach the crag.'''

'''Climbers should park in Patrick’s farmyard (watch for the ‘climbers’ sign on the right before the beach) and from there follow a laneway to the headland. Recreational climbers are asked to make a payment of €5 per head for parking in an honesty box on the wall in the car-park. Commercial activity providers are requested to pay €10 per client. Due to the landowner’s concerns about large groups it was agreed that group size should be kept to a maximum of eight.'''

'''This arrangement has been reached following discussions between the landowner and local climbers.'''

'''Location:''' Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.

'''Approach:''' From Dingle town, take the N86 towards Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this to Patrick’s farmyard (watch for the ‘climbers’ sign on the right before the beach) and from there follow a laneway to the headland. Finally abseil to the ledges below.

[[File:Dunshean_Head.jpg‎|center|400px]]

'''Description:''' Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.

[[File:Dunshean_climbing.jpg|center|400px]]

People on the top of 'ACS E1'(?) watching a climber on 'Giraffe VS'

'''Access:''' See the information at the top of the page'''

'''Due to the presence of livestock, dogs are not permitted on the land at Dunshean. Camping is not allowed at the headland. Climbers are asked to respect these guidelines so as to maintain positive relations and ensure continued climbing at Dunshean Head.'''

'''Routes:''' Routes are described Right to Left as you face the crag.

About 20m E of the rampline of Peter Pan there is a small alcove with an obvious rockfall scar. Three routes are recorded here, although only one is really worth doing.

'''Don't Bother'''
J. Healy (solo) 10m Severe 03/2014
Climb the rockfall scar, exiting rightwards at the top to avoid loose rock. Added to the topo more as a warning than a recommendation!

'''Belaid'''
J. Healy, K. Sloan 10m V. Diff 03/2014
Climb the corner to the left of the rockfall. Scrappy, best avoided.

'''EASTERN ARETE'''
J. Healy, K. Sloan 13m HS 4c 03/2014
A worthwhile little route. Climb the left hand side of the arête that forms the left side of the alcove. Tricky to start

'''Ó BUN GO BARR''' 12m V. Diff
R. Creagh (solo), 22/06/11
Start around the corner from Peter Pan. This route takes the obvious line of right facing flakes with a large ledge at half height.

''' CRONINS CORNER''' 14m S
Ger Cronin, Daragh Fitzgerald 11/03/2014
Start right of Peter Pan, climb the slab to the quartz line and ledge, and straight up from here to the flat area on the top. Protection is poor.

'''PETER PAN''' 16m V.Diff
P. Kelliher, T. Macken, 4.84
Climb the wide ramp that goes right side of the platform travelling diagonally left.

'''MONKEY NUTS''' 18m S
Alan Dorgan, Roisín Burke 25/11/2010 (First recorded ascent)
Start at base of crack half way between Peter Pan and Nutella. Follow this, and at about half way up tend left through the small "V" so as to finish as for Nutella. Small nuts useful.

'''NUTELLA''' 20m HS
Tony Barry, Darine West 06/06/05
Start at base of Openers and follow small crack tending right to finish on good holds finishing 1m left and above of Peter Pan top

'''UNNAMED''' 20m HS 4b
Daryl O' Toole
Climb the line between Nutella and Openers to the top of the arrowhead (small wires) and continue to the top of the car sized pillar above.

'''OPENERS''' 19m MS
M. Barry, T. Macken, 4.84
To the left side of the semi-circular rock platform and to the right of the overhanging chimney climb the crack on good holds to the top.

'''A BIRD NEVER FLEW ON ONE WING''' 22m HS 4b
R. Creagh, M. Dillane, 24/07/2010 (First recorded ascent)
Climb the groove right of Thievery, gained by starting up Thievery or Openers. A direct start was climbed on 12/09/10 (B. Hall, D. Dineen) taking an eliminate (but nice) line up the blank looking groove between the chimney and Openers. It goes at about HVS 5a.

'''THIEVERY''' 22m HS
A. Devlin, P. Quinn, 4.84
Climb the overhanging chimney left of Openers. Good protection.

'''STRANGE MEETING''' 20m VS 4c
E. Cooper, C. Torrans, 4.85
Climb the blunt arete right of Banana Split.

'''BANANA SPLIT''' 27m VS 4c
T.Macken, M.Barry, 5.84
Start: The route is marked half way up by a V-shaped grove, its right hand side continues on to join the arête.
Climb from directly below the V over a bulge to a small platform. Step out and climb the V, continuing right to join the arête.

'''PANACHE''' 22m HS
M. Barry, P.Quinn, 4.84
Climb the corner 1m left of Banana Split to a large ledge. From here climb the overhang.

'''COCOMOTION''' 25m E1 5b
F.A. Denis Tangney (SOLO) July '94
Climb arete and slab just right of "Deliverance" and left of "Panache". Excellent slab climb with poor protection.

'''DELIVERANCE''' 27m VS 4c
M. Barry, A. Devlin, 4.84
Start: 2m left of Banana Split.
Climb the left diagonal crack to beneath the overhang. Turn the overhang by traversing right around it. Continue upwards at the side of the overhang to the top.

'''HOT CHOCOLATE''' 27m E1 5b
Dave Mc Bride, Denis Tangney, 2005
Start as for Deliverence.Instead of following diagonal crack of Deliverance take a straight line to the top.

'''GRAND LARCENY''' 30m HVS 5a
T. Hacken, 1985
Climb the arête between Fada Amach and Deliverance.

'''FADA AMACH''' 33m E2 5c
M. Barry, P. Quinn, 7.84
To the left of Deliverance on the main wall climb the corner that overhangs at three-quarters height (crux), continue, following the obvious line on good holds to the top.

Variation 33m 5a
Escape right into Grand Larceny at the base of the overhang.

'''The wall left of Fada Amach gives the following extreme routes:'''

'''UISCE BEATHA''' 33m? E3/4 6a 
Marcin Sobczak and Aine Sills, 15/12/2015 
Start in the middle of the rock pool under the main wall. Move up to the first crystal horizontal break (good protection) on small side pulls. That's the hardest move on the route. Climb directly to the next double break and arrange gear for the next few metres where the bold climbing moves from a small crack (rp's and small gear) rightwards into Fada Amach for 2m just below the major undercling. Climb left and finish as for Broad Street.

'''BROAD STREET''' 33m E4 6a
E. Cooper, C. Torrans, M. Barry, 4.85
Start: Just left of a shallow rock pool under the main wall.
Climb directly up to the horizontal break and traverse right until its possible to climb up to a short flaky crack (good runner placement). From the flake move up and left to the groove and poor protection (crux). Move left to a quartzy pocket and up the wall above moving slightly right to finish a deceptive groove.

'''HEARTBEAT CITY''' 30m E3 5c
Denis Tangney, Tony Macken May '95
Start 3M left of "Broad Street". Climb straight up to horizontal break (poor protection). Climb over bulging flake and straight up yellow lichen wall to good holds. Traverse right to obvious shallow corner and straight up to finish.

'''GARDEN OF EARTHLY DELIGHTS''' 30m E4 6a/b
F.A. Aidan Forde, Denis Tangney Sept. '95
Start as for "Heartbeat City". Climb diagonally right to reach horizontal break under small roof. Climb up to overlap and continue past two bolts (crux). Finish up faint groove as for "Broad Street".

'''ECHO BEACH''' 33m E2 5b
E. Cooper, C. Torrans, 4.85
Enjoyable climbing, though not overly protected! Start: Below the obvious bulge about 20ft up the wall.
Climb the wall trending slightly leftward to the bulge which is climbed on its left side. Move right and up (poorly protected), and continue easily up a slanting groove above.

'''FLASHFORWARD''' 33m HS
First Ascent unknown
At the left hand side of the main face, climb a small ramp to a huge ledge, then climb the arete to finish at the same corner system as Flashback. The exposure makes the route (and the grade).

'''Moving along the platform to the left, go as far as possible towards the needle. Turn right around the corner and there is an alcove with a wall running out of it to the back of the needle. The following routes are either in the alcove or on the wall running from it. Some of these routes are quite long and so care should be taken in selecting enough gear for protection and belaying.'''

'''FLASHBACK''' 33m S
A. Devlin, (solo) , 4.84
Facing the alcove climb the right hand wall by a large open corner system and a series of rock ledges, then climb the arête to finish. (Little or no protection).

'''A.C.S.''' 40m E1 5a
A. Forde, T. Farell
Climb the corner right of Uncle Alister.

'''On the main wall there are two obvious crack lines. The left hand crack is Giraffe. Uncle Alister and Aunt Hanna both start in the right crack.'''

'''UNCLE ALISTER''' 40m HVS 5a
M. Barry, T. Hacken, 8.85
Climb the right hand crack with the large recess. The quality of the rock gets poorer near the top.

'''AUNT HANNA''' 40m E1 5b
M. Barry, A. Devlin, 10.85
Start: Climb Uncle Alister to the recess.
Hand traverse left for 2m to a large pocket. From here climb directly upwards, following a series of small vertical cracks.

'''COISCÉIM''' 40m HVS 5a
R. Creagh, V. Bolin, 12/07/2011
Climb Giraffe for about 10m to the first of 2 roofs. From here make a meaty traverse right and up along a juggy crack to reach the upper crack of Uncle Alister. Finish up this route.

'''GIRAFFE''' 40m VS 4c
M. Barry, T. Macken, 6.84
Start: At the base of the alcove there is a crack slanting to the left that runs to the top through a number of overhangs.
The top half of the route above the second overhang, while looking vegetated, is actually quite clear and offers easier climbing than does the lower half.

'''The following routes are reached by abseiling to the base of the Needle:'''

'''THRILLER''' 40m E3 6a
Denis Tangney, August 2006
Located on the arête left of Giraffe and right of Stinky Phoo. Start as for Stinky Phoo on a good ledge. Facing out to sea make a long reach for a horizontal break on the arête and swing out on to wall. From here take a straight line to the top (35m). Superb climbing on small holds.

'''STINKY PHOO''' 40m HVS 5b
M. Barry, T. Macken, 11.84
Start: To the right of where the needle and the main wall meet the is an obvious corner.
Climb down to a small ledge to start or if the sea is in swell use the abseil rope to pendulum onto the climb missing out the first 3m. Follow the crack to the top.

'''J.J. BARRY''' 40 m VS 4c 24/7/2010
Joe Reville, Barry Denton, John Duignan.
Start: Start from where The Needle and the main wall meet. Move across to the left onto the arete. Climb the arete - the gear is sparse and small. Exposure is airy and thrilling. After 30 m the arete and wall is covered in a dense deep carpet of lime green ''Ramalina'' lichen. Move horizontal to the right on a thin ledge, for about 10 m to the crack of Stinky Phoo - some hand holds can be found among the lichen. Climb the last 10 m of Stinky Phoo to the top.

'''GOOD TIMES''' 40m VS 4c
P. Quinn, M. Barry, 7.84
Start: Abseil to where the needle and the main wall meet. Move down the small chimney to reach a small inlet.
Facing the main wall climb the overhanging chimney to the left to exit on a large platform (belay). From here climb the arête (loose) to finish.

'''ARCH CYNIC''' 30m E2 5c
F.A., Mike Barry
Climb the crackline to the left of Goodtimes and directly opposite the Needle.

== THE NEEDLE ==
Access to the needle can be either by abseiling down the main wall at the back of the needle and then traversing around on to the East side, or by going for a swim (!) to set up a fixed rope between the alcove and a large spur on the Needle - very useful for ferrying over and back gear, and aquaphobic climbers.

'''JUMBO''' 25m E1 5b
A. Devlin, M. Barry, 4.84
Start: Two cracks can be seen in the Needle while facing it standing in the alcove.
Follow the right hand crack as far as the quartz line, then traverse left to continue up a narrow crack to reach the spur for a hanging belay (use of the old in situ sling is not recommended). Abseil from here to descend.

'''JUMBO variation''' HVS 5a
Tony Ryan 3-6-2006.
if you go to the south side of the sea stack and climb the right hand crack that
start's about 1 metre from the ground and trend right till you meet the route jumbo.

'''THE RAZOR'S EDGE''' 30m VS 4c
M. Barry, P. Quinn, T. Macken, 7.84
The route follows the sharp spectacularly exposed arête on the West side of the Needle. Start: Move along the South wall on a small ledge to the base of the arête. Belay here, or climb the short wall to a small platform and belay from there to reduce rope drag.
Climb from the platform diagonally rightward to gain the arête. Climb this to the top. Beware of loose rock near the summit.

'''The small spires further out from the Needle present some nice boulder problems where, if you do come off, you only go for a swim.'''

Dunmore Head

2021-03-21T16:19:05Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Dunmore Head to An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie https://www.logainm.ie/en/1394328

#REDIRECT [[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head

2021-03-21T16:19:05Z

This information is taken from New Climbs 1984. 

'''Dunmore Head, Dingle Peninsula.''' Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series. 
This sea cliff is situated west of Coumeenoule Strand. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers. 
'''Top Tier.''' 
'''Initiation''' 13m HS 
Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'. 
Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Haemmorrhage Heights''' 18m HS 
Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang. 
Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983 
'''Terra Infirma''' 23m HS 
Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'. 
Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection). 
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983. 

'''Bottom Tier.''' 

Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner. 
'''PJ's Flight''' 13m MS 
Start; above small rock pool at little alcove. 
Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980 
'''Seal Sights''' 10m S. 
Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'. 
Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982 
'''Moon Dance''' 13m VS 
Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance' 
Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce). 
M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982 
'''Zipper''' 15m MS 
Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'. 
Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Pat's Hat''' 15m S 
5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'. 
M. Barry, P. Quinn. 
'''Horace''' 15m VD 
Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Pinch''' 16m VD 
Start: 10m L of 'Horace'. 
Climb crack to L-hand side of slab. 
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980. 
'''Adrian's Wall''' 23m HS 
Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb. 
Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney. 
P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.

Irish Climbing Wiki

2021-03-21T16:13:45Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Dingle Peninsula \ Corcha Duibhne */ Lochlanngallagh moved page Ballydavid Head to Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/en/101019?s=Ceann+Bhaile+Dh%c3%a1ith)

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.mournesclimbers.com Mournes]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

Old Link: [http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=23&Submit=Go Dunseverick], New Link: [https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag rather than a GR for the Parking?)

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Dingle Peninsula \ Corcha Duibhne===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[Carrigard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[Dunmore Head]]

[[Dunshean Head/Dún Séanna]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[Great Blasket Island]]

[[Sauce Creek]] (An t’Sáis)

[[Sybil Head]]

[[Three Sisters (Smerwick Harbour)]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[The Playbank]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]] (Anyone have a grid reference for this?)

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]], [[Carrick Mountain 2]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

Ballydavid Head

2021-03-21T16:11:15Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Ballydavid Head to Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head: Changing the names of crags within Corca Duibhne to their Irish names using logainm.ie (https://www.logainm.ie/en/101019?s=Ceann+Bhaile+Dh%c3%a1ith)

#REDIRECT [[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head

2021-03-21T16:11:15Z

The attempts at climbing on Ballydavid Head (OS Sheet 70, Discovery series. GR Q 389 114) in 1956 were confined to the extreme south-west end, where three ridges run south to two islands in the sea from a single top.

Descent: Descend the gully between the innermost ridge and the second ridge, until a gully of strangely weathered rock is reached. Descend this to a gap above a gendarme that we called the Grey Soldier, on the central ridge. Traverse around the Soldier to its other side and descend to the bottom of the ridge.

'''Grey Soldier Ridge''' 90m Severe
 ''B. McCall, F. Winder (leads shared) September 1956 ''1. 20m. From the easy slabs at the sea ascend the first step at its right hand side (hard) and then pull around to right of ridge. Ascend slab and traverse back onto face at top of second step. Piton belay. 2. 25m. Return to right and climb steep groove (long reach) or go straight up face. Continue up easier rock to belay on left of ridge. 3. 20m. Up onto ridge and continue along edge to belay at base of Grey Soldier. 4. 25m. Up ridge to Soldier. Ascend this by chimney on left and descend the same way. 5. Climb the next pinnacle by a few moves up the face and then traverse right. 6. A further 70-100m of climbing can be obtained up the ridge. It is quite interesting and strenuous, but mostly moderate and can be climbed continuously most of the way. One large gendarme is taken slightly to the right.

The following information is taken from New Climbs 1993 - 1995.

The following climbs are located on a big slab of rock below and somewhat west of the watchtower. From Feohanagh take the road north for Brandon Creek. Immediately after crossing a bridge, turn L in the direction of the headland and drive as far up as the road will go, to park in the settlement. Walk up the boreen and then uphill until the cliff-line is reached (20 mins).
Follow the ridge north-east in the direction of the watchtower until a very prominent rock is encountered right on the cliff edge. It is approximately 300m west of the watchtower where an indistinct wall coming down from same fades out. This rock is made up of 2/3 perched blocks pointing out to sea and is unmistakable. 
Scramble down the grassy hillside just east of the boulder with extreme caution, until the cliff is reached. Belay on a small buttress (about 4m high with a cleft running right through it) above the slab and abseil down (about three rope lengths) to some ledges at a zawn and a huge cave. Many of the ledges are non-tidal. 
The cliff is a huge slab, 135m or so in height, formed from a single tilted bedding plane of sandstone, similar to Sybil Head, though steeper and smoother. The rock is very clean and eminently climable. The potential for more routes is high, though they are likely to be of a higher grade than those reported here. The location is magnificent.

'''Atlantic Ocean''' HVS 5a 135m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1994. ''This route follows a line from the bottom R-hand side of the slab diagonally up to a ledge one third of the way up. It continues up the centre of the faceand then veers back R into the shallow corner running up the the upper half of the wall. Start: around the corner of the main slab at its west end, the side away from the cave, at a short corner and cleft. This start is tidal. 1/. 10m 5a Climb up and L onto a comfortable and spacious incut ledge. 2/. 30m 5a Ascend L-wards up a ramp and crack system to the base of a clean cut corner. Arrange protection and then climb out L onto the main face and up the unprotected but relatively easy (4b) L arete of the corner to reach easy ground and good protection. Move L to belay in the centre of the face, directly below a slight recess. 3/. 25m 5a Climb up the recess with only adequate protection. At its top bear diagonally L-wards to reach a more broken area of ledges and undercut blocks (with better protection) on the edge of the seepage zone. Gain the top of a wet block to the L and climb the slab above and to the R of the block, finishing up a thin crack to gain a horizontal break to belay. This point is just level with an overhang on the L-hand wall from where the seepage emanates and is the starting point of the route "Only The Lonely". 4/. 30m 5a Traverse to the R for a few metres to a thin crack and ascend this diagonally R-wards at first and then straight up to belay where convenient on one of the small incut holds. Fairly continuous 5a throughout, though well protected. 5/. 40m 5a Continue up to the thin crack which is ascended to the top.

'''Only The Lonely''' E2 5c 60m ''S. Gallwey, J. Bergin June 1995. ''This climb takes the thin crack line running up the face to the L of the upper pitches of "Atlantic Ocean". Start: from the belay at the top of the third pitch of "Atlantic Ocean". 1/. 30m 5c Climb the smooth slab (crux) to better holds and a good crack which is climbed more easily, to belay on the last good foothold just after the climbing gets hard again, and a little below a small overlap. 2/. 30m 5c Follow the crack line to where it fades out. Step R to the start of a new thin line and follow this through to a bulge at the top. This pitch has continuously sustained climbing, following a crack below finger-tip size for the most part, though there is the occasional slot. The protection is mainly small wires, rocks 4 - 6 being particularly useful. (Use plenty due to the soft nature of the rock). The largest size RP's are useful on the final section, above the last bulge.

Irish Climbing Wiki

2021-03-21T16:00:35Z

Lochlanngallagh: /* Dingle Peninsula \ Corcha Duibhne */

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.mournesclimbers.com Mournes]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

Old Link: [http://www.pete-smith.co.uk/dynamic/guidebook/route_list.php?crag_no=23&Submit=Go Dunseverick], New Link: [https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag rather than a GR for the Parking?)

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Dingle Peninsula \ Corcha Duibhne===

[[Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[Carrigard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[Dunmore Head]]

[[Dunshean Head/Dún Séanna]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[Great Blasket Island]]

[[Sauce Creek]] (An t’Sáis)

[[Sybil Head]]

[[Three Sisters (Smerwick Harbour)]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[The Playbank]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]] (Anyone have a grid reference for this?)

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]], [[Carrick Mountain 2]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

Com a Lochaigh

2021-03-21T15:59:25Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Com a Lochaigh to Com an Lochaigh: Missing an 'n' in the spelling

#REDIRECT [[Com an Lochaigh]]

Com an Lochaigh

2021-03-21T15:59:25Z

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Com a Lochaigh to Com an Lochaigh: Missing an 'n' in the spelling

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Mount Brandon. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.

The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015''

Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016''

This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.