Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-06-11T22:35:25Z

Johnhealyclimbing: approach time added

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field. Takes about 15 min

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-06-11T22:34:33Z

Johnhealyclimbing: Added approach from Roberts Cove

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

'''Approach from Roberts Cove.''' From the village/beach at Roberts Cove take the clifftop path west along the coast until 2 WW2 watchman's huts come into sight. The first area described below is beneath the western (RH) hut. Please use the paths and do not cut across the crops in the field.

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-06-11T22:29:19Z

Johnhealyclimbing: Added new routes and images

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''Route 1 Diff''' On left side of Upper Tier there is an obvious short corner at the top of the wall. Climb easily to the corner and a stiffer finish

'''Route 2 V Diff''' Between R1 and PZZ is a groove that forks at half height. Climb the LHS of the groove and the L fork. Hard to protect

'''Route 3 V Diff''' The RHS and right fork of the groove. Well protected with a bit of a pull to finish

'''p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.
[[File:Upper tier LHS.jpg|thumb|Upper Tier LHS]]
'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Gaeilge Fiche Ceathair HVS 5a''' Climb the groove Right the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''Family Affair V Diff''' Left of the harder routes is a more gentle corner with an alcove half way up. Climb the corner to a belay on a large horizontal spike. Well protected.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

 

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

File:Upper tier LHS.jpg

2021-06-11T22:06:29Z

Johnhealyclimbing:

The climbs on the LHS of upper tier

Ballyryan

2021-03-23T19:55:06Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Introduction */

==Introduction==

''This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.'' Known locally as Ballyreen.

[[File:CaptureCC.JPG|300px|File:CaptureCC.JPG]]

'''HIGHWAY PATROL''' S 
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020'' 
Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of '''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

'''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' VD (1) 
''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' 
Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

[[File:Picture5330365.png|600px|File:Picture5330365.png]]

'''SALTSHAKER''' HS 
''E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997'' 
A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue below and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK

[[File:Saltshaker.jpg|600px|File:Saltshaker.jpg]]

'''JOE SMOKES CRACK''' VD (1) 
''T Sommerville, M McGrath 09/03/2019'' 
As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

'''GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES''' Diff (1) 
''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' 
A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice

'''NOT TERRY'S CRACK''' S (2) 
''G Shannon, O Kelly 09/03/2019'' 
Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam.
Follow crack. Traverse right two thirds of the way up. No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish
[[File:Sketch-1552232504555.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM''' S (3) 
A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí R O'Sullivan 08/03/2019 
Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.

'''KINDER SURPRISE''' HVS 5a 
J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 1994 
Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.

[[File:1972.PNG|600px|File:1972.PNG]]

First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)

'''WHOSE CORNER''' VS 4c First ascent J O'Connor J Whyte August 1972 First Recorded Ascent
C. Torrans (solo) The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.

'''TESCO VALUE HANGOVER''' HS 4b First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan 14/07/2013 Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish.

'''WACKEY''' HS J Mulhall K Whyte August 1972 Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner

'''CAOIMHE''' HVS/E1 5a Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010 1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.

'''THE DIVIL GETS AT YA''' HS 
B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent). 
Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

'''BALLYMEGASH''' HS 
B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent). 
The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep
wide crack.

'''STREET RACER''' VD 
B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent) 
Climb the broken rib 2m left of '''FROST IN MAY''' to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

'''FROST IN MAY''' S Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

'''COUCH POTATOES ''' HS 
B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998 
Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.

'''RIB''' VD 
The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

'''CHIMNEY''' D 
The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)

'''BETWEEN LEFT CRACK''' S 
Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009 
Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

'''7. LEFT CRACK''' HS 4b 
The crack just right of chimney. (7)

'''8. RIGHT CRACK''' * VD 
Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

'''9. BALLYALPINE''' S 
Unknown 
Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top. Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

'''10. VULGARIAN''' S 
R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98 
Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

'''10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK''' HS4c 
J Healy, G O'Mahony 01/01/20 
Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney

'''11. WIDE CHIMNEY''' D 
The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)

'''11b. CHEAP LABOUR''' E1 5a 
(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09) 
This route is to the left of ''Slave Labour''. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)

[[File:CheapLabour.jpg|RTENOTITLE|alt=|800x800px]]

'''12. SLAVE LABOUR''' E1 5b 
C. Torrans. 
This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)

'''13. MANNERLESS MONSTER''' * HS 4b 
C. Torrans. 
This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.

'''AGONY ANT''' E2 5c 
Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009 
Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete

'''THE ALCOVE CRACK''' * HS 4b 
This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.

'''TRIUMPH CRACK''' * HS 4b The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.

'''€40 PATAGONIA HAT''' Diff 
Adam West and Fionn Delahunty 16/04/2017 
An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chockstones and slither to the top.

'''LOUISE''' VS 
Brian Rodgers 01/8/2009 
Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.

'''HIPPY TO YUPPY''' HVS 5b 
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86 
Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.

[[File:Legover.jpg|600px|File:Legover.jpg]]

'''CRAZY GAME OF POKER''' E3 6a

''Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope)''

Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway. [Headpoint] (Green line in pic below denotes actual route)

[[File:Crazy_game_of_poker.jpg|200px]]

'''DOLMEN CORNER''' HS 4b 
unknown 
The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.

'''INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH''' VS 
''K Cooper Oct 1994 (first recorded)'' 
''R. Kernan, S. Oakes 14/7/2013'' 
A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.

'''BALLYRYAN DASHER''' S 4a 
This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

'''LEGOVER''' VS 4c 
The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

'''SCOWER BALL''' E3 5c 
''D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04'' 
An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.

'''CRACK 90''' E3 6a 
D. Johnson, August 1988. 
Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?

'''ELVIS WHO?''' HVS 5a 
D. O Sullivan, April 1986. 
Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.

[[File:ElvisWho.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]

'''MR PRESIDENT''' VS 5a 
A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96. 
The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.

'''Is Anyone In The Jacks''' HS 4b/c 
R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11. 
The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-03-23T19:45:23Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Upper Tier */

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==
[[File:20201110 134453.jpg|thumb|J Healy seconding '''Eoins Route''']]
A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''1. p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.

'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Eoins Route HVS 5a''' Climb the groove at the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

File:20201110 134453.jpg

2021-03-23T19:44:18Z

Johnhealyclimbing:

Eoin's Route

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-03-23T19:43:15Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Upper Tier */

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==

A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''1. p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.

'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2a. Eoins Route HVS 5a''' Climb the groove at the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Roberts Cove/Roberts Head

2021-03-23T19:42:54Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Upper Tier */

Robert’s Head (PDF Guide with pictures available from 'bishopstown@hotmail.com')

==Location==

Just use the following grid reference code W782531.

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.732217, -8.313475~Roberts Head </display_map>

==History==

Cast your mind back through time if you will. No, no, even further back than that! I’m talking about the ‘80’s here. Before desktop publishing was available to the masses, and men were… well men began to wear multi-coloured Lycra for climbing. Now, cast your mind forward again to the summer of 2007. Ken Moore after climbing the third “new” route was directed to look at a dirty, great piton in the cliff! Oh well.

==Layout==

The bulk of the climbing is to be found towards the blunt South-Western portion of Robert’s Head. For convenience of communication, the Main Area of climbing has been subdivided into the following areas: Upper Tier (home of dirty, great piton), Stumpy Wall (below and slightly left of Upper Tier), Lower Wall (to the right of Stumpy Wall), Chimney Area (to the right of Lower Wall) and the Big Wall (which is to be found over a rise to the right of the Chimney Area). There is also a Twin Pillars Area, perhaps 300m right (East) of the Main Area, subdivided into the following areas: First Pillar, Second Pillar and Second Pillar Wall. Oh yes, we mustn’t forget the Forgotten Wall, which is west of the Twin Pillars area. There is another wall called Lost Wall but I couldn’t tell you where that is.

==Geology==

Imagine that you are a grain of seafaring sand that has had enough and has decided to settle down in a nice beachfront property. Over time, millions of other residents move in on top of you. You resist joining the residents committee but after an age the pressure becomes unbearable and you and your fellow residents become one. Actually I don’t have a clue about the geology but the rock is generally good solid stuff to clamber about on. Development Scope The big wall has some 'nice looking' lines available. E1 grade leaders have been defeated here, so may be higher in the grad. Lost Wall area has another wall further East of it with steep cracks that also have rejected said leaders. Other routes could be contrived from the whole Roberts Head area generally. It has a strange tendency to reveal new routes the more you climb there.

=='''Upper Tier'''==

A 6m high section of wall. Easily identifiable by the dirty great piton sticking out below the centre of the main headwall (unless some hero removes said piton of course).

'''1. p. z. z 6m S''' On left side of Upper Tier, take line trending slightly rightwards, finishing along a very thin crack.

'''2. Peg Legs 6m HVS/E1 5b''' Thin crack with dubious peg at 3/4 height. Blind and fingery climbing. Gear is poor, don't fall. B.Hall, H.Moloney, P.Stejskalova 22 May 11 (first recorded ascent)

'''2. Eoins Route HVS 5a''' Climb the groove at the start of '''Peg Legs''' then step right using the undercuts until you can reach up to positive holds and climb boldly to the top. E McLoughlin, J Healy 10/11/20

'''3. e. z. p 6m HS''' On right side of Upper Tier, look up to see very thin vertical crack with useful looking steps scattered either side on the way up.

=='''Stumpy Wall'''==

Another short wall providing some short, sharp sporting routes, down and to the left (as you look at the cliffs with your back to the sea) of the Upper Tier.

'''1. One Nut Wonder 5m HVS 5a''' On left side of Stumpy Wall, look up for two vertical cracks, the higher crack slightly offset to the right, the lower crack providing the wonder.

'''2. Bursto 6m HVS 5b''' A shallow rightwards facing inside corner provides some moves requiring at least two bursts of energy.

'''3. Wet 6m HVS 5a''' A thin crack to the right of Bursto, choked with quartz tempts you upwards but then two lumps on the left, just above midway, take away your direct inclinations.

'''4. Chicken Finish 6m HVS 5a''' A rightwards facing inside corner, to the right of Wet. At the end, when the corner ends, there is more rock on the right that you can avoid.

'''5. Arêto 6m E1 5b''' Step up to the deceiving angle of the leftwards trending outside corner leading to the top. A flaring pockmark on the right side of the corner provides the only desperate hope of protecting the finish.

6.'''Roberto 10m E1 5b''' On the right side of Stumpy Wall, start at the inside corner and overlap beneath the non-existent crack. Try not to let Roberto push you off balance.

=='''Lower Wall'''==

The Lower Wall begins in a dark corner, just to the right of where Stumpy Wall ends. It begins as a slab but it turns into some thing more vertical before midway. This wall is affected by the tide, the left side remaining drier for longer than the right.

1. '''La Premier 12m VS 4c''' A very definite crack in a dark corner. Follow crack to top beneath the looming black wall on your left.

2. '''Mozzies & Dolphin 13m E1 5b''' Variation on La Premier; half way up dark corner find finger pocket, too small to accommodate most peoples fingers plus gear. Swing up to stepped ledge and go up to obvious crack to finish.

3. '''Roberto Blanco 12m E1 5a''' As the name suggests, not a whole lot of useful fissures on this climb. Following two hairline cracks just left of La Premier to the blankness above.

4. '''Spiton 12m VS 4c''' Start underneath two zigzag overlaps. Continue past overlaps and to the left of the leftward facing corner at the top.

5. '''Severe 12m S''' A pair of defined cracks rise up and slightly away from each other, just to the left of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper. Follow the right hand crack until it peters out. Finish as for Spiton (or slightly to the right HS).

6. '''Slow Arrest 12m VS 4c''' Start nearly 2m right of where the Lower Wall takes a turn for the steeper, up a vague crack line. Two higher cracks then present themselves as the angle eases. Follow the right crack to a large shelf. Take stock of yourself before proceeding to a thin line above the porous-looking rock above, and on to the top.

7. '''Groove Armada 13m HVS 5a''' An obvious line below, an obvious line above; find your own way in the middle but enjoy it all the way. The last move is a humdinger.

8. '''Duty Calls 13m HVS 5a''' Start 1m to the right of Groove Armada. Use fingertips and toes to gain nearly horizontal cracks. Then move up right of overlap on thin holds to porous-looking rock. Find holds to propel you upwards using protuberance that seems to support the overlap.

9. '''Pocket Surprise 13m HVS 5a''' This climb starts on a small step, that the belayer might find useful, on the right side of the Lower Wall. Ignore flaring crack above and right; instead move up slightly left of the step. Continue to ledge beneath final overlap. Resist urge to escape right. Instead tackle overlap and hopefully you will get a nice surprise.

=='''Chimney Area'''==

To the right of the Lower Wall (sea at your back) there is a chimney feature. On the right side of the chimney there is a nice looking wall, the left side is less pretty.

1. '''Chasm Spasm 20m HS''' Start at the entrance to the chimney at the base of a broad outward facing corner. Climb to small ledge at top of corner (could belay part-way up corner if sea is rough/tide is in). Continue up vague crack to base of another outward facing corner that leads to right side of crowning capstone.

2.'''Really? 20m HVS 5b''' Start as for Chasm Spasm. Use a more leftward line from the small ledge atop the first broad outward facing corner. Follow small holds to overlaps above. Move up on the left side of the crowning capstone.

3. '''Heart Of Darkness 20m HS''' Let yourself be engulfed by the chasm by delving deep within it down to the back. Then make the required moves to ascend the chimney aiming to have your back to the sea when you emerge into the light.

=='''Big Wall'''==

'''This tall vertical wall is to the right of the Chimney Area over a slight rise. Approach''' to the base of this wall can be problematic when the tide is in (the same can be said when the tide is out!). It is possible to abseil in I’d say but I haven’t tried to be honest.

1. '''Light Chocolaty Moments 8m HVS 5a''' Deepest inside corner to the left of the Big Wall (a chunk missing from the left wall of the corner). Climb wall on the right of corner. Mind head below rock protruding above the corner. Finish on clean, compact, suspicious rock to finish ledge.

2. '''Got Out Clause 25m VS 4c''' Somehow get to right side of the bottom of the Big Wall. Follow along line of the deepest diagonal fissure (rising leftwards) but climb 1m or 2m above it. Stop climbing when you reach same finish ledge as for Light Chocolaty Moments.

3. '''The Honeymoon Is Over 12m VS 4c''' Start in next inside corner, to the right of Light Chocolaty Moments. Go straight up corner and then start to veer ever leftwards the further up you go, until you suddenly feel a belay coming on.

=='''Forgotten Wall'''==

'''This wall is about 100m left (West) of the Twin Pillars Area (see next section).''' Approach the base of climbs by a scramble (exposed in parts) on the left (west) side of wall.

1. '''Geordie 12m HS''' Climb within obvious gap on the left side of the wall. Above the this move up a bit and then veer left towards the multiple mini overlaps where the gear is better (the direct finish is less amenable).

2. '''Break From The Books 13m HS''' Climb up wall just to the right of the gap. Giving a much more direct line, sharing the same finish with Geordie and skirting over or around a fun overlap in the middle. But only if the doctorate studies go well.

3. '''Diagonal Mick ??? 15m VS 4c''' Climb protruding rock to the right of Geordie to find a diagonal line of good holds leading up and right towards the overlap. Try and find a nice way through before scurrying to the inside corner above and right again.

4. '''Mick Meandering ??? 13m VS 4c''' Start to the right of the roof, which is right of the start for Diagonal Mick. Go up and above lower stepped overlap to the overlap at mid height. Skip over overlap like a surgical knife. Either scurry to the cosy corner on the right. Or go up direct much more steeply with very sparse gear where falling is not an option (HVS 5a).

5. '''Mick Direct ??? 12m HVS 5a''' Do you see the subtle, broad, flaring corner? The one beneath and slightly right of the (usually) wet overhanging crack? Good. Well, ascend both features and then finish up the cosy corner.

6. '''Supermodel 12m HVS 5a''' About 2m to the right of Mick Direct, pounce onto the slabby piece of rock beneath the overlap with a crack running up above it. Generally follow this to a sort of flake near the top. Once over the flake, promenade with a rightward facing confidence to the top.

7. '''Blood Red Sky 14m E1 5b''' A vertical edge of rock leads up to the right of a significant overlap, which is just above another significant overlap. Follow the edge up and then traverse, as best you can, left under the higher overlap. If possible induce swelling in left hand to give comfortable jam around left side of overlap. You never know there may be a handhold for a normal sized right hand above your head. After this just climb straight up to the top. Or alternatively and more easily skirt off left to finish up Supermodel.

8. '''Belgacious 12m E2 5b''' Start about a metre to the right of the starting edge of Blood Red Sky. Rise with a sense of invincibility towards the goal of an obvious hole in the upper wall about a metre from the top. Do not fall when you realise this hole does not contain a jug, since you will probably be on a long run-out.

9. '''New Arrivals 12m HVS 5b''' There are two main cracks at the top of the cliff to the right of Belgacious. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the left crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards.

10. '''Forgotten 12m HVS 5b''' To the right of Belgacious, there are two main cracks at the top of the wall. The aim of the game for this climb is to end up ascending the right crack, by following a fairly direct line below it upwards. Déjà vu?

11. '''Big Girls 12m HVS 5a''' Tucked in on the right side of the wall is a sort of shallow overlap facing right, running vertically from top to bottom. The imaginary line is more pronounced at the bottom but is still visible at the top.

12. '''HAG 12m HVS 5a''' (to be confirmed) Ian Walsh & Kian Buckley 11/03/12

The obvious offwidth line on the left of Geordie, climb until you reach a 2 foot roof where the crack becomes 1 inch wide. Follow the crack around the roof and onto the verticle face. From here the climb continues over the ledge leftwards (sea to back) where a horizontal crack appears over the ledge. The climb is sustained until you are over this ledge. The rest of the climb is on this slab where you follow a pin scar crack where small protection can be found nuts size 1 and under are handy here. Finish on ledge under 3/4 height and left of Geordie finish.

=='''Twin Pillars Area'''==

This area is about 300m right (East) of the Main Area. The First Pillar is to the left of the Second Pillar. Both climbs were done on the First Pillar. Second Pillar Wall is to the right of the Second Pillar. An abseil approach is advised for most of the climbs.

'''First Pillar'''

1. First Pillar Direct 20m S Follow the obvious line bisecting the front of the First Pillar.

2. Chasm Arête 20m S On the left side of the First Pillar, find nice looking continuous outward facing corner and climb it to the top.

'''Second Pillar Wall''' Just before you tackle any of these routes, give a quick wistful look over your left shoulder – if you see the majesty of the Second Pillar – go forth and conquer. It is worth mentioning that most of these routes require an abseil approach.

1. Bidet Blues 12m Diff Obvious cleft and weakness on the far right side of the Second Pillar Wall. A nice way out after you have finished exploring.

2. Chunga Lunga ??? 13m HS Do not be perturbed by the initial bulge of this climb, a few metres to the left of Bidet Blues. After you ascend into the shallow corner just above the bulge, you will think it was just all in your mind as you amble over the easier rock above.

3. Unga Bunga ??? 14m HS Just because a climb a few metres to the left of Chunga Lunga does not have a vertical crack to follow upwards, this does not mean there is no gear. Overcome the bulge and have a look for yourself. And again, just go up, that’s what its all about.

4. Oogie Coogie ??? 15m HVS 5b Now this route does have a crack line, so you need to follow it backwards as you abseil down to the start of the route. At the top is a (currently) yellow block with a sort of rib below it. The climb ascends up this, starting from a line to the left of this rib (if you have back to the sea).

5. Bloody Warm-up 15m E1 5b Abseil from ledge with big detached block. Start climbing from square cut ledge near the sea. Climb directly to first overlap into a tight, right-trending, steep corner. Elegantly climb/fight your way to top of corner and search for daylight above and slightly right of terminating overlap. Rejoice over more lenient rock to the top and make friends with detached block.

6. Attack of the Dweebs 15m HS Start just around corner to the left of square cut ledge (start of Bloody Warm-up). Climb up to first overlap and overcome it (crux) about a metre left of the corner. Dance up the easier ground to the top, to the left side of a ledge.

7. Right Turn Clyde 20m VS 4c Start nearly 4m to the left of Attack of the Dweebs. Climb up to and beyond first overlap onto rock with small gregarious holds. Pull on holds excessively, towards second overlap. Ignore the aloof rock above and instead traverse 3m right to a ledge

=='''Lost Wall'''==

This wall is way over to the east of the other areas. I suppose I could tell you where it is but the guide writing is getting somewhat tiresome. If it can be found by one person but that person falls into a coma, that does not mean it can not be rediscovered by others does it?

1. '''Banana Split 10m HVS 5a''' This is an acute corner, not bisected by a banana, but by a crack. As you ascend the crack a revelation overcomes you as you bridge upwards – it is you who is the banana!

2. '''Paul’s Fall 8m HVS 5a''' If you find the Banana Split corner, then look to the right of it. Suddenly the rock strata becomes wiggly in waves. Somewhere in the middle of this, there is, shall we say a natural scratch (more than a crack) ascending the wall to lure the unwary upwards.The Ballycotton Arête is a new route at Roberts Head (Confusing eh?). The route is slightly overhanging, almost a three move wonder with easy above and below, but I liked it a lot (having lashed it up myself). It is in between "Mozzies & Dolphins" and "Roberto". A knee jam and some small pinches.

'''The Ballycotton Arete''' E1 5a/b Easy first moves from big ledge, slightly overhanging, into the obvious big square cut out. Moving out and up is the crux, a long reach using a pinch or a sloppy crimp. Once on the rectangular face look for that hold you need, tis somewhere, scramble on the ledges to the top. Is this worthy of a star or two? Grade to be confirmed.

'''Mozzies & Dolphins''' E1 5a Start in the corner. Move out onto the slightly over-hanging wall.to the obvious ledges (crux). Up the crack at the top.

[[File:Ballycotton.JPG|500px|Ballycotton.JPG]]

Killary Crags

2021-03-22T21:51:16Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: 822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful 
A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only. 

Climbs described left to right 
Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks. 
Clement Quinn 2011

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
Ciaran Lennon, Carl Maddox

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. 
Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009

'''R1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straignt up the short crack. 
Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009

'''R1 b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney
Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010

'''R3. 2 Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998

'''R2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b 
Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. 
Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998

'''R2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 4b 
Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb 
Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010

'''R2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b
The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.
Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.

'''R2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a 
Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.
Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''R4- Hide n Seek'''

16m HS

Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a commiting step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

JHealy Achill OEC, July 2018

'''R4a. Hammer Man ''' 16m V.Diff 
Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish. 
Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009

'''R4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
Left side of main slab, steep start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998

'''R5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches top wall, ascend obvious open crack to finish 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998

'''R5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c / 6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''R6. Killary Overhang''' 16m 5c 
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip 
Top rope inspection only

An in-situ wire in the left trending hanging crack just right of Killary overhang marks the line of an over ambitious on-sight attempt on this impressive looking line, from Barry Smith productions Ltd.

'''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)'''

''' R7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS4c 
The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected 
Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998

'''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall'''

'''R8. Fire Starter *''' 14m HVS5a 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Good Protection

'''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall'''

The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''' 9meters

'''R9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''R10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m VS 4b 
Start as for Portwest, traverse right to arete, follow left side of arete, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start. 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000

'''R11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height 
Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009

'''R11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves. 
Michelle Casey, 2010

'''R12. Naked lady *''' 10m S4b 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs 
Carl Maddox, 2005

'''BOULDERING'''
'''Some good boldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''R13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''R14. Pick Pocket''' 13m V.Diff 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket 
Larry Hunt 1997

'''R15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS4c 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 

'''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m 5b 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish 
Top rope only

'''R17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS4c 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab 
Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006

'''R18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E25c 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''R19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS4b 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999

'''R20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS4b 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999 

'''R21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS4b
Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.
Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010

'''R22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

'''R23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13

Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean.
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''a.1. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4a/b
Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 4c/5a

Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S 4a

Clare Wheatley, 2004

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a
Carl Maddox, 2010.

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D

Mary Nash 2009.

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD

Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a

Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b

Henry Wilkinson 2009.

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD

Shane Treacy, 2009.

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D

Richie Byrne, 2009.

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD

Peter Cody, 2009

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D

Richie Byrne, 2009

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m VS 4a/b

Clare Wheatley, 2010.

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 3c

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse''' 8m Diff

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a

Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Graham Brookes, 2009

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004.

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a

Maura Lyons, 2009

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 4c

Henry Wilkinson, 2009.

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S 4a

Carl Maddox 1999.

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress. 
The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 
'''The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 

'''On the Second Tier.''' 

'''Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. 
Climb the wall, then finish easily. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
Slab around arete from previous route. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Pollux ''' 30ft M.S. 
'''Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes. 
'''Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey.

Killary Crags

2021-03-22T21:49:04Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: 822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful 
A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only. 

Climbs described left to right 
Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks. 
Clement Quinn 2011

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
Ciaran Lennon, Carl Maddox

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. 
Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009

'''R1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straignt up the short crack. 
Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009

'''R1 b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney
Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010

'''R3. 2 Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998

'''R2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b 
Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. 
Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998

'''R2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 4b 
Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb 
Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010

'''R2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b
The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.
Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.

'''R2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a 
Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.
Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''R4- Hide n Seek'''

16m HS

Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to a commiting step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

JHealy Achill OEC, July 2018

'''R4a. Hammer Man ''' 16m V.Diff 
Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish. 
Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009

'''R4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
Left side of main slab, steep start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998

'''R5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches top wall, ascend obvious open crack to finish 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998

'''R5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c / 6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''R6. Killary Overhang''' 16m 5c 
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip 
Top rope inspection only

An in-situ wire in the left trending hanging crack just right of Killary overhang marks the line of an over ambitious on-sight attempt on this impressive looking line, from Barry Smith productions Ltd.

'''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)'''

''' R7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS4c 
The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected 
Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998

'''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall'''

'''R8. Fire Starter *''' 14m HVS5a 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Good Protection

'''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall'''

The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''' 9meters

'''R9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''R10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m VS 4b 
Start as for Portwest, traverse right to arete, follow left side of arete, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start. 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000

'''R11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height 
Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009

'''R11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves. 
Michelle Casey, 2010

'''R12. Naked lady *''' 10m S4b 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs 
Carl Maddox, 2005

'''BOULDERING'''
'''Some good boldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''R13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''R14. Pick Pocket''' 13m V.Diff 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket 
Larry Hunt 1997

'''R15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS4c 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 

'''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m 5b 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish 
Top rope only

'''R17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS4c 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab 
Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006

'''R18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E25c 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''R19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS4b 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999

'''R20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS4b 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999 

'''R21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS4b
Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.
Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010

'''R22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

'''R23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13

Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean.
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''a.1. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4a/b
Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 4c/5a

Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S 4a

Clare Wheatley, 2004

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a
Carl Maddox, 2010.

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D

Mary Nash 2009.

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD

Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a

Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b

Henry Wilkinson 2009.

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD

Shane Treacy, 2009.

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D

Richie Byrne, 2009.

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD

Peter Cody, 2009

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D

Richie Byrne, 2009

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m VS 4a/b

Clare Wheatley, 2010.

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 3c

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse''' 8m Diff

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a

Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Graham Brookes, 2009

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004.

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a

Maura Lyons, 2009

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 4c

Henry Wilkinson, 2009.

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S 4a

Carl Maddox 1999.

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress. 
The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 
'''The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 

'''On the Second Tier.''' 

'''Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. 
Climb the wall, then finish easily. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
Slab around arete from previous route. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Pollux ''' 30ft M.S. 
'''Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes. 
'''Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey.

Killary Crags

2021-03-22T21:47:15Z

Johnhealyclimbing: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: 822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful 
A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only. 

Climbs described left to right 
Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks. 
Clement Quinn 2011

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
Ciaran Lennon, Carl Maddox

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. 
Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009

'''R1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straignt up the short crack. 
Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009

'''R1 b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney
Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010

'''R3. 2 Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998

'''R2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b 
Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. 
Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998

'''R2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 4b 
Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb 
Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010

'''R2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b
The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.
Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.

'''R2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a 
Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.
Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''R4- Hide n Seek'''

16m HS

Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to a commiting step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

JHealy Achill OEC

'''R4a. Hammer Man ''' 16m V.Diff 
Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish. 
Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009

'''R4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
Left side of main slab, steep start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998

'''R5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches top wall, ascend obvious open crack to finish 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998

'''R5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c / 6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''R6. Killary Overhang''' 16m 5c 
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip 
Top rope inspection only

An in-situ wire in the left trending hanging crack just right of Killary overhang marks the line of an over ambitious on-sight attempt on this impressive looking line, from Barry Smith productions Ltd.

'''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)'''

''' R7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS4c 
The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected 
Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998

'''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall'''

'''R8. Fire Starter *''' 14m HVS5a 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Good Protection

'''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall'''

The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''' 9meters

'''R9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''R10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m VS 4b 
Start as for Portwest, traverse right to arete, follow left side of arete, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start. 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000

'''R11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height 
Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009

'''R11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves. 
Michelle Casey, 2010

'''R12. Naked lady *''' 10m S4b 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs 
Carl Maddox, 2005

'''BOULDERING'''
'''Some good boldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''R13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''R14. Pick Pocket''' 13m V.Diff 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket 
Larry Hunt 1997

'''R15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS4c 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket 
Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 

'''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m 5b 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish 
Top rope only

'''R17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS4c 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab 
Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006

'''R18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E25c 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 
Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''R19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS4b 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999

'''R20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS4b 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found 
Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999 

'''R21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS4b
Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.
Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010

'''R22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

'''R23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.
Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13

Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean.
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''a.1. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4a/b
Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 4c/5a

Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S 4a

Clare Wheatley, 2004

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a
Carl Maddox, 2010.

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D

Mary Nash 2009.

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD

Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a

Hugh Hunter 2009.

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b

Henry Wilkinson 2009.

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD

Shane Treacy, 2009.

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D

Richie Byrne, 2009.

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD

Peter Cody, 2009

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D

Richie Byrne, 2009

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m VS 4a/b

Clare Wheatley, 2010.

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 3c

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse''' 8m Diff

Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a

Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a

Patrick Gethings, 2009.

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Graham Brookes, 2009

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff

Carl Maddox, 2004.

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a

Maura Lyons, 2009

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 4c

Henry Wilkinson, 2009.

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Carl Maddox 2009.

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S 4a

Carl Maddox 1999.

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress. 
The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 
'''The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete. 
Kelcey, Fenner. 

'''On the Second Tier.''' 

'''Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. 
Climb the wall, then finish easily. 
Kelcey (solo) 
'''Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
Slab around arete from previous route. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Pollux ''' 30ft M.S. 
'''Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes. 
'''Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct. 
Kelcey, Fenner 
'''Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 
Fenner, Kelcey. 
'''Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs. 
Fenner, Kelcey.