Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Gap Of Dunloe

2026-04-09T13:39:28Z

Jermur:

What follows is 90% originally edited by Richard Stack as part of the 1995 Gap of Dunloe rock climbing guidebook which is out of print. Thanks to Richard for allowing us to include the guide in the database.

A '1' AFTER A ROUTE NAME MEANS THAT THE ROUTE HAS HAD ONLY ONE ASCENT, DUE TO THE LACK OF ASCENTS MANY OF THE GRADES MAY BE INACCURATE. OVER 50 % OF THE ROUTES HAVE NOT HAD A THIRD ASCENT.

==PUBLISHER'S NOTE==
The sport described in this book is an inherently dangerous activity and any person, especially if inexperienced, undertaking it, should approach it with caution and under appropriate supervision. The publisher and contributors cannot accept responsibility for any accidents, injury or loss suffered by any reader of this book however it may be caused. All descriptions and grades are offered as suggestions only and are not to be taken as definitive.

==ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS==
I would like to thank all the climbers who have contributed to this guide book, particularly Peter Costelloe, Aidan Forde, Con Moriarty, Donie Mulcahy and Tim Long. Aidan Forde wrote the sections on geology and natural history. Cathal Cudden did all the art work.

==Introduction==
Due to the fact that there has been no guide, unpredictable weather and a very small number of local based climbers, the amount of climbing that has been done in Kerry has been limited. Due to the lack of ascents many of the grades may be inaccurate. It is hoped that this guide will bring the grading of climbs into line with the rest of the country. This guide should only be considered as a preliminary guide.

There have been a number of routes done on the smaller crags but these haven't been included.
A point worth noting is that the majority of all new routes done in the Gap were done on sight without prior inspection or cleaning.
Care should be taken when descending from the crags especially at night as there are a lot of holes between the boulders.
Like all inland crags the Gap has an over healthy-population of midges, so if it's calm don't arrive without midge repellent !
[[File:Gap1.gif|alt=|center]]

[[File:Gap2.gif|alt=|center]]

==Guide Updates==
An updated copy of the guide is held at the bar in Kate Kearneys Cottage. Any new routes can be written into this guide. Any comments on grades or route descriptions are welcome.

An updated version of the guide has been produced by Richard Creagh

[[File:Gap of Dunloe updated guide.pdf|link=Special:FilePath/Gap_of_Dunloe_updated_guide.pdf]]

==Access==
To date there have been very few problems and it will remain so as long as there is no interference or distraction to the horses. Only climb near the road late in the evening or when it is very quiet. When parking keep your car well in off the road and park only at the really obvious areas as trucks/tractors use the road as well as the Jaunting Cars. When using the area always remember that all the land is privately owned. On busy Summer days it is quicker to walk from Kate's car park due to the fact that there can be hundreds of cyclists and strollers in the Gap on a weekend day.

==Geology==
The rock in the Gap of Dunloe (and in all of the Cork and Kerry mountains) is Old Red Sandstone. This sedimentary rock was formed 350 million years ago in the beds and flood plains of very large rivers that carried eroded sediment southwards from mountain ranges in what we now know as Donegal and Mayo. These rivers flowed into a broad landlocked basin in what is now Cork and Kerry and the sediment was deposited in the rivers' flood plains and channels as they entered the basin. The basin was subsiding as the sediment was deposited (like Death Valley today) and eventually over 6,000m thickness of sediment was deposited.

The sands and gravel transported by the rivers were rich in iron and because these were deposited in contact with the air in a desert environment, this iron turned to iron oxide. This iron oxide (also called rust) coated the grains of quartz that make up the sandstone and gave it the reddish colour that is a striking feature of the local scenery.

As the rock was laid down in shallow water it formed layers when the sediment was carried suddenly by floodwaters. These layers are called beds and they have been preserved in the solid rock as the horizontal breaks (bedding) that are characteristic of the climbing here. Also common are smaller bedding plains that occur between the larger ones and at an angle to them. This cross-bedding shows the direction of flow of the river at the time the sediment was deposited. Preserved current ripples (similar to ripples seen in the sand at a beach) can also be used to find the ancient flow direction. The steeper face of the ripple is the downstream side. These ripples are common on the scree of Póirse Gully.

Although bedding was originally horizontal, it is now commonly folded into waves. This occurred 270 million years ago when the beds were crumpled into folds by the force of the earth's plates colliding when the local mountains were formed. The bedding throughout the Gap is folded.

Folding wasn't the only result of the mountain-building process. As the rocks were subjected to great pressures they commonly fractured. Sometimes the two sides of a fracture moved due to the pressure and a fault was formed. Most of the steep gullies in the Gap are faults. However, if the fracture was infilled with pure crystalline quartz, a vein was formed. These veins are common in the Gap and the white quartz may be mixed with a soft green mineral, chlorite. Chlorite is especially common along bedding plains that have acted as faults.

==Glaciation==
The bedrock of the Gap is just one part of the formation of the climbing crags here. The various glaciations of the ice age were just as important in the formation of the cliffs. During the most recent glaciation, from 120,000 to 15,000 years ago, the ice moved north from an ice cap near Kenmare before coming up against the barrier of the McGillycuddy's Reeks. This ice flowed around the Reeks to the east near Killarney and to the west around the Caragh River valley. As the ice level dammed up against the Reeks it eventually reached their lowest point. Like water flowing over a dam, the ice flowed over the low point of the Reeks, cut deeply into the mountain and formed the Gap as it did so. Because this is a place where the ice broke through a barrier, it is called a glacial breach and the Gap is a famous example of such a feature. The climbing crags are therefore the result of the erosion caused by this glacier flowing to the north. The lakes of the Gap are also due in part to erosion where the glacier cut into the bedrock floor and also due in part to material that was eroded upstream and dumped downstream as mounds of loose rocky debris. Such piles of eroded material are called moraines and there are several good examples on the floor of the Gap, to the east and north of the Black Lake. These moraines are the reason for the lakes existence as they dammed the valley when the ice finally melted away.

==Fauna & Flora==
The types of life found in the Gap of Dunloe are controlled to a large degree by the geology and climate of the area. The acidic rocks and the relatively infertile moraine soils derived from the same rocks make for a reduced flora that is adapted to life in these nutrient-poor conditions. In addition to these factors the area receives about 2500mm of rain a year. The constant flow of water through the ground has had the effect of leaching the iron (these rocks are rich in iron) from between the grains of quartz, in the rocks and soil profile. At one level it is deposited as a layer of iron (iron pan) and this effectively seals off the drainage of the soil. When this happens the effect of the constant wetting is compounded by the water-logging of the soil from the lack of drainage. This starts the formation of blanket bog and except in better areas, the entire Gap is covered in it.

Heather is the dominant plant on the-walk in to the crags. There are three species present and the most common is Ling Heather. This has very small leaves, just visible to the naked eye and packed closely together. Bell Heather has larger linear leaves and flowers positioned at various points on the stem. It is similar to Cross Leaved Heather which has flowers only at the top of the stem in a tight bunch, all facing the same way. The Cross Leaved Heather also has very small hairs on its leaves. Some very rare heathers grow in Connemara but the three described are the only common heathers in Ireland.

In spring, look out for the Giant Butterwort and Sundew in boggy pools at the base of the crags. These plants have sticky enzyme-tipped hairs that trap insects on their leaves. This is an adaptation to the very nutrient-poor condition of the soil - the insect bodies are digested by the plant and essential minerals are obtained.

An interesting tree growing on some of the bigger ledges, to the left of The High Buttress is the Aspen. This native tree is very common in the Rockies for example but is fairly scarce here in Ireland. Its Latin name is Populus Tremula from the way in which its leaves vibrate rapidly in the slightest breeze.

Look out for displays of crustose lichens on the rocks around the Gap. The crustose term refers to the way in which they are so closely attached to the rock, almost like paint. These plants are a mixture of alga and fungus. The alga can manufacture food from sunlight whereas fungus cannot. However the fungus provides a substrate for the alga and in some cases liberates essential materials from the rock that the alga can use. Each plant needs the other and lichens are a good example of this kind of co-dependence called symbiosis. Of the many different colonies covering the rock surface, look out for the one that look like a map - this species is called Rhizocarpon Geographicum.

St. Patricks Cabbage is a common plant in the Gap but is unusual elsewhere. It has small white flowers at the end of a long stalk and shiny leaves in a basal rosette. These leaves are spatula-shaped with teeth at the end. This is one of the saxifrage family, meaning rock-breaker in latin.

Bracken is an extremely abundant fern here and in the summer may reach several feet in height. Some of the scree slopes higher up have large strands of Male Fern (the name is not the sex of the plant). The leaf stalks in these ferns all rise from a common base and later in the summer the backs of the leaves will be crowded with the tiny cases from which millions of spores are released.

The Choughs that live in the area may entertain you with displays of acrobatics. These rare crows have curved red bills and red legs. They are closely related to the Alpine Chough (often seen around huts in the Alps) which has red legs but a yellow bill. It is a bird of sea cliffs but the Gap is one of the very few places where it breeds inland. Choughs are now nearly extinct in England and rare in Wales but they are still reasonably common on the west coast of Ireland.

There are quite a few Ravens around the Gap and together with the Grey Crow and the Fox are the largest scavengers in the area. The location of a sheep carcass is often indicated by the movement of these crows and they become particularly active in the Spring when the sheep are lambing.

While belaying keep an eye on the Black Lake, especially the upper end, for Otters. The river running through the Gap has a number of areas of good Otter habitat and Otters have been seen from the crags in the past.

In wet weather the rocks around the Gap display many Kerry Slugs feeding on the aforementioned lichens. This species has light brown spots on a dark brown body and will curl up in a ball when disturbed (it is the only slug that will do this). The Kerry Slug has a "Lusitanian" distribution in Europe. This means that it occurs along the western shoreline of Europe but not in the interior, even though it is not a coastal dwelling species. This is in contrast to the usual plant and animal species distribution in Europe where more species occur towards the centre and less towards the margins. Other species occurring in the Killarney area such as the Irish Spurge and the Arbutus also have a Lusitanian distribution.

Note : If cleaning new routes, it is advisable to know the plants that occur on the cliffs (there aren't that many of them) and to avoid damaging any that are unusual or protected. Do not approach or otherwise disturb cliff-dwelling birds at any time of the year but be especially careful from April to July when the birds are nesting.

==Grading==
The usual adjectival and numerical (technical) grading systems have been used as follows :
M Moderate
D Difficult
VD Very Difficult
MS Mild Severe
S Severe 3c,4a.
HS Hard Severe 4a,4b
VS Very Severe 4b,4c,5a
HVS Hard Very Severe 4c,5a,5b.
E1 Extremely Severe 5a,5b,5c
E2 5b,5c,6a
E3 etc. 5c,6a,6b etc

It should be noted that many of the routes have not had second ascents, these have a '1' after the route name. The accepted star grading system is used with three stars being reserved for the routes of highest quality. Again the star grading system is suggestive rather than definitive and newer routes in particular may be deserving of more or fewer stars than indicated. An absence of stars does not mean that a route is not worth doing.

Where there was some dispute over the grade, two grades were given e.g. HVS/E1 5b/5c. This means that route is most likely HVS 5b but possibly E1 5c. Also if there was some doubt over the technical grade an alternative grade is put in brackets. e.g. E2 5c(6a).

==Mountain Rescue==
In the event of an accident, where assistance is required, dial 112 and ask for Mountain Rescue. The nearest telephone is at Kate Kearneys Cottage. Give grid references and the name of the crag if possible.

==Protection==
Due to the horizontal nature of many of the crack lines, small camming devices, especially those with flexible stems prove very useful in the Gap. On many of the routes Flexible Friends are the main source of protection.

==Using the Guide==
The various crags are described starting on the east (left) side of the valley and working south up the Gap and then the routes on the western side of the valley are described in the same manner. Climbs on each face are described from left to right. Climbs thats are not numbered on the topos are newly added.

==Céim - East Side of the Gap==
About a mile up the road from Kates, there is a path to the left which leads to the river Loe (this is the river flowing out of the Black Lake). Cross the stepping stones and follow the path up to the old house. Go straight past the house and down into a small valley where the crag is situated (100 metres from the house).
Céim is very sheltered from the wind and the rain and due to the fact that it is overhanging in places some routes remain dry on wet days.
[[File:Ceim.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''GUINEVERE, THE WATERY TART''' 15m HVS 5b
B. Hall, D. Dowling March 2012
The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

'''1:CUFF'S CRAP''' 15m VS 4c
M Shea, P. Cuff . Summer 1985
Start under the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the steps up to the corner (above the tree), finishing up the corner.

'''2:THE BLACK STUFF''' 15m HVS 5b
R. Stack, I. Counihan. 21/10/90
The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

'''3:MOONDANCE''' * 15m VS 4c
D. Tagney, A. Forde. 12/10/94
Start 1m right of The Black Stuff under a small white-stained overhang. Climb straight to the ledge, then up and step onto a small ledge. Move up and right to the top.
VARIATION: Instead of moving right continue up the left-facing corner (VS 4c).

'''4:SEAN NÓS''' * 15m HVS 5a
M Shea, C. Corrigan. Summer '90
Start under a square block (about 3m up). Climb over this and continue straight up to the ledge. Finish as for Miss Piggy.

'''5:THE GREAT WAR''' * 15m HVS/E1 5a
R. Stack, G.Stack. 11/11/90
Start 1m left of the arete left of Miss Piggy. Climb to the overhang (good wire around corner on right) and straight to the top.

'''6:MISS PIGGY''' 17m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack July '89 and re-climbed August '91 after removal of large blocks
Climb the obvious corner (left of Titanic) to the ledge, then traverse left for 1.5m and climb the obvious crack to the top.

'''ARACHNOPHOBIA''' 12m HVS 5b
B. McSweeney, E. Kennedy, O. O’Regan 3/8/03
Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

'''7:THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN''' 12m HVS 5a/E1 5b D. O’Toole 27/10/01
Boulder start off the horizontal crack. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.

'''8:TITANIC''' ** 12m VS 4b
M Shea, P. Cuff. Summer 1985
Short but steep. Climb the hand crack on the right hand side of the crag.

'''9:THE PRODIGAL SON''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 15/9/91.
Climb the thin line 2-3m to the right of Titanic.
==Bothán - East Side of the Gap==
This buttress is situated directly above Black Stream Bridge on the east side of the valley. Walk 100m past the bridge to two small quarried areas on the left hand side of the road, from here head straight up to the crag. It can be quite exposed to wind, which is good if the midges are out, but bad if it‟s cold. The crag dries quickly after rain and seepage isn‟t a problem on most routes. West facing; a good spot for evening sunshine.
[[File:Bothan.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''''LEFT BUTTRESS'''''

'''APRIL SUNSHINE''' 15m M S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start about 3m left of "The Ego Has Landed", climbing the left corner of the lower face, proceed up the middle of the second section, getting behind the holly tree. Good holds, but poor protection.

'''1:THE EGO HAS LANDED''' 15m VS 4c
A.Forde, I.Counihan. 15/9/90
Arete above a large ledge on the extreme left of the buttress. Protection is sparse.

'''2:FIRST COME FIRST SERVED''' * 15m VS 4b
T. Long, D. Mulcahy. 6/4/95
Climb the line between The Ego Has Landed and Agent Orange. Climb directly up to the crackline and continue straight up to the top.

'''3:AGENT ORANGE''' 15m HS 4b
I.Counihan, A.Forde. 15/9/90
Large crack and corner on the left hand side of the buttress.

'''FULCRUM''' 20m HVS 5a
R. Stack, C. Cudden, A. Forde 15/5/93
This route is between 3 and 4. Climb up to a ledge (overhanging) and then up the left side of the face above to another ledge. Continue up existing over a small overhang at the top.

'''4:PRIVATE INVESTIGATIONS''' * 20m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Shea. August '86
Climb up left of the overhang to gain a ledge. From the ledge step right and climb up to another ledge. Veer left at the blank face and climb over a small overhang near the top.

'''5:LJUBLJANA''' ** 20m E1 5c
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Start to the right of Private Investigations, climb the face onto the ledge, climb over the obvious protruding spike and then over the overhang and continue straight to the top.

'''6:DISCO LEGS''' ** 20m E3 5c
P. Hoy 4/9/99 (climbed past crux previously but was unclaimed)
Between B5 and B6, straight to roof, pocket, sidepull (not the loose one on the left), direct to top past sloping breaks. Finish up the crack of Raven. Pumpy but protection is good.

'''7:RAVEN''' ** 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, K.Tarrant. 1985
This climb is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb through the obvious breech in the overhang to a small quartz vein, traverse left and ascend the crack. Protection is poor at the start. A variation is to traverse half way across and climb over the small overhang (5a).

'''8:BUGLER''' 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, A.Devlin. 1985
Start as for Raven but continue straight to the top (over a holly bush). Protection is poor at the start.

'''9:FIACH DUBH''' 15m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D.Dineen. 02/05/10.
Start as for Raven. Standing on the first ledge arrange gear in the crack, then step out right onto the face gaining good holds. Go straight to the top from here, keeping left of a small bush and going past a short slab and through the overhang at 3/4 height. Beware of loose rock.

'''10:RESPECT''' 15m HVS 5a
B. O’Dwyer, E. Lawless 21/4/00
Start just to the right of the arete to the right of Bugler. A poorly protected dynamic move over the bulge (long reach helps). Tend leftwards along the obvious line to the top.

'''11:ADRIAN'S ROUTE''' 12m VS 4c
A. Devlin (Solo). 1985
This route is on the far right of the buttress 3-4m around the corner from Bugler. Climb the faint overhanging corner, move right and climb straight to the top. The most difficult moves are at the start where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BACK OR BRAIN''' 6m VS 4b
I. Counihan, R. Stack. 14/4/91
Start 2-3m to the right of Adrian's Route. Start on a small ledge right of a large holly tree. Climb the obvious line veering slightly right towards the top.

'''BERRY FUNNY''' 6m VDiff
S. Bickerdyke, F. Villain. 14/11/2011
Start right of Back Or Brain. Climb diagonal crack to the right exiting left of holly tree. Not first ascent, first recorded.

'''''RIGHT BUTTRESS'''''

'''SETANTA''' 8m S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start on the first flat rock at the base on the chimney, left of "Akimbo". Climb the right hand wall of the chimney, using the good hand and footholds, climbing slightly left to the highest point of the face. Protection is poor.

'''13:AKIMBO''' * 7m HS 4b/c
J. Behal, C. Cudden 13/9/95
Climb the arete left of The Hobbit. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:THE HOBBIT''' 6m HS 4b
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Climb the slightly overhanging crack left of the obvious corner (which contains a tree.)

'''15:BALDY''' 10m VS 4c
M Shea, B.Galvin Summer '90
Climb the edge of the face to the left of Spider. Protection is poor.

'''16:SPIDER''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty. 1985
Climb up the blank face on the left side of the buttress. This climb weaves back and forth. Protection is poor.

'''16A:CRAZY FROG''' 9m HVS 4c
J Healy, S. Clinton. 2009
Start just left of the small holly tree midway along the base of the climbs. Climb up just left of the tree on sidepulls and undercuts. Crux. Continue directly up to the top. Protection is poor.

'''17:P.O.S.''' 8m V.Diff
R. Stack, P. Cudden. Jan '89
(pile of shite?) Start about 5m to the right of Spider and climb the obvious line to the top.

=='''The Chimneys'''==
The area known as The Chimneys is situated on the eastern side of the Gap of Dunloe, above Bothán crag. They are broken down into three main outcrops. The approach is as for Bothán, but continue in a north easterly direction for approx. 10 minutes and you will arrive at the crags. The approach after leaving Bothán may be difficult as the heather in high….but I think its worth the effort. There seems to be very little seepage there.

'''HIGHWAY TO HEAVEN''' VS 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 29/04/2014
Start on the left of the smaller crag at the left of the chimneys. Climb the obvious crack and stay left of the tree root. Climb straight up till you arrive at the ledge (avoid the temptation to move right on the High Hopes), instead, climb the overhanging face topping out a little higher than High Hopes.

'''HIGH HOPES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
This climb is on the very left of the outcrops, at the base of the large triangular rock. Start in the very obvious corner, climbing up to the overhang, move left, climb past the bush, moving slightly right before climbing to the top of the crag.

'''PEARLY GATES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan S
Start as for High Hopes, but instead of going left at the overhang, climb straight up the face, topping out at the top out for High Hopes

'''CRONINS YARD''' VDIFF 16m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The start for this is about 50m to the right, and slightly uphill from High Hopes, Start at the left hand corner of the small crag, and climb the corner to the heathery covering. The decent is off to the left of the top out and down the small gully

'''THE STEPS''' VDIFF 14m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The Steps is on the left corner of the next major crag after Cronins Yard, Climb the obvious steps, finishing on the first major heathery ledge you reach. Avoid the temptation to climb further, as it makes your decent to your left very tricky

'''MAIDEN VOYAGE''' MS 15m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
Start about 4m to the right of The Steps, climb the rock which has a concave shape, climbing straight up the flat face and topping out at the obvious crack in the rock at the top of the climb.

'''VERTICAL LIMIT''' VS 46m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 12/06/2014
On the crag on the southern end of the Chimneys, Start at the base of the obvious crack, climb straight up, over the small overhang, onto the ledge, from here climb straight up the blocky climb to highest point in the crag. Protection is good. Decent from here is off to the right of the crag as you face it.
==Carraig Ceannann==
This is the most northerly of the cliffs on the western side of the valley. About 1 Km up the Gap turn right and walk up the Cora Road (at the "Going Climbing" sign). Follow this zig zag road up to the nearest point to an obvious white buttress this is lower Carraig Ceannann. A few metres up and around the corner is an obvious off-width crack, this is the line of Moloise. Further left you will come to upper Carraig Ceannann.
[[File:Carraig_ceannain_upper.png|alt=|center|700x700px]]
'''1:ERICA''' 10m V.Diff
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Start 2m right of the mossy gully on the extreme left hand end of Carraig Ceannann, keeping a small clump of heather on your right hand side. Climb up to a right tending diagonal line, continue along this and exit on an easy right tending ramp at the top.

'''2:EASY ROUTE''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty (Solo) August '86
This climb is to the right of Erica. Climb the blank face, following no definite line. Protection is poor.

'''3:TAR WARS''' * 20m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
The furthest left crack through the small roof left of Cuchulainn.
1. 15m Climb the crack through the roof (crux) and belay on the grass ledge.
2. 5m Climb the wall behind and slightly right of the first pitch to finish left of the large block on top.

'''4:DIVING FOR PEARLS''' ** 25m E2 5c,5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 15/9/90
1. 15m Start at a narrow chimney 2m right of Tar Wars. Climb this past an upside down slot to another slot. Move up and left to gain the upper wall. Belay on the large ledge above.
2. 10m From the ledge gain a small corner above a rose bush, climb the upper wall on good holds to the left hand side of a large block on top.

'''CHRISTMAS JUMPER''' 30m E2 5b/c
R. Creagh, J. Eldred. 23/11/14 (Toproped beforehand; it was wet and looked harder!)
A bit eliminate but worth a go if you've done the other routes here. Climb Cuchulainn to the holly tree. Move left and climb the wall left of the corner, passing through the overhangs using a few holds common with Cuchulainn but keeping out of the corner proper.

'''5:CUCHULAINN''' ** 30m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty, A. Forde. July '84
This route follows the obvious line to the left of the main overhang. Traverse in from the left to the base of the line. Climb straight up the obvious line to an awkward overhanging niche. Continue to the large ledge (small holly tree in crack) climb straight up the overhanging corner (difficult to protect) and on to the top on good holds.

'''CUCHULAINN-VARIATION''' 28m E1 5b
C.Ryan, T.Mee 11/1/2014
Follow Cuchulainn to the holly bush. From here traverse right up the flat wall and continue up up to the top.

'''6:FERDIA''' ** 26m HVS 5a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. July '84
From the start of Cuchulainn climb up and right into a corner. Climb this to the overhang before breaking out right to a large ledge. Continue up the narrow chimney to the roof before turning awkwardly right again, and up into the final niche. Escape out left and up to the top.

'''7:FERDIA DIRECT''' 40m E2 5c
M Shea, B. Forde. September '89
Instead of traversing from Cuchulainn to the start of Ferdia, start at the lowest point of the line. Climb the line to a small overhang (crux), Move slightly left to surmount this and then onto the original route.

'''8:VALHALLA''' 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 24/4/90
The line immediately right of Ferdia.
1. Start at the crack over the cave, climb directly to the obvious corner (with the bush) to the right. Turn the overhang here by moving out right, continue up and then left to regain the crack, belaying on the obvious ledge.
2. Climb the roof via the crack on the right hand side to complete the route.

'''9:VALHALLA MY ARSE''' ** 30m E1 5c
C. Moriarty, A. Young. June '90
Start as for Valhalla but continue straight up through the overhang, up along the corner and finally up through the top overhang.
add comment

'''9a Osiris *'''
'' VS 4c ''Gerard Laide, 1/8/2015 15M. Hs 4b start 4M to the right of Valhalla below a ledge
climb the crack or layback the large flake
climb the slab keep right at the bulge up to the bolder belay here
20M. 4c climb the obvious crack breaking out right onto the face on good holds to a small ledge to right [good cam] 0.4 silver. continue up the arete and
Abseil off chain
[[File:Carraig_Ceanann_lower.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
'''10:GALLARUS ORIFICE''' 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 6/4/90
Climb the left hand side of the back of the alcove 5m to the left of Moloise. Above the holly tree move up and right under a small roof. Traverse up and right to a small ledge. Belay here on a tree further back and to the right. Protection is poor initially.

'''11:MOLOISE''' * 25m HVS 5a/5b
A. Forde (Solo). April '86
Climb the obvious off-width right-tending crack line on the right hand side of the buttress. The most difficult moves are at the start, where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BASH ON REGARDLESS''' *** 25m E1/2 5b/5c
A. Forde, A. Devlin. November '85
This climb is in the corner 5m right of Moloise, Climb the slight corner to the large block. Finish up the face by delicate moves. Protection is poor at the start. Holly tree belay. Abseil or walk off above and to the right.

'''13:BLACK FRIDAY''' *** 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Protection is poor initially which accounts for the high grade. Start a few metres right of Bash on Regardless. Climb up to a horizontal quartz vein (at 5m), traverse right to a horizontal finger crack and climb up to a small ledge at half height. Continue up and left to a large flake. Surmount this and move up to a large ledge, move further right to belay on a holly tree (same belay as for April Showers).

'''15:APRIL SHOWERS DIRECT''' * 20m E1 5b
R. Stack, M Shea. 23/6/90
Start in the corner to the left of April Showers, climb the corner to the overhang, move up and right and continue up April Showers. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:APRIL SHOWERS''' 20m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Left tending line on the extreme right of Carraig Ceannann. Climb the ramp to gain an obvious diagonal crack (poor protection) and then a vertical crack up to the holly tree, hanging belay. Abseil here.

==D Buttress==
This is a small buttress above and to the left of Carraig Ceannann.

'''THE THIEF''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 21/6/92
This climb is left and around the corner from Sadbhóg (facing east). Climb up just left of the right hand edge. Climb up left of some gorse and onto a large ledge, mantle shelf onto a slab and then up a very short corner to the top.

'''SADBHÓG''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Crack line left of Wet Wet Wet. Climb a wide crack (that narrows towards the top) to a triangular block and horizontal crack. Step left and follow a faint crack to the base of a large block. Traverse right under this block and finish up its right hand side.

'''WET WET WET''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
Climb the obvious corner and crack line on the right hand end of the buttress.

==Brennans Leap==
This crag is situated on the road side beside the Black Lake (First Lake).

Note:
It is recommended that people don't climb on this crag during the day (between 9 am and 6pm), as climbing activities (rattling of gear and bright colours etc.) can startle the horses carrying people on the road.
[[File:Brenna's_Leap.jpg|alt=|center|700x700px]]
'''Left Buttress'''

'''1:NANUK''' 8m VS 4b
Unknown
Thin line on the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a ledge at half height and continue straight up to the top (right of some gorse).

'''2:MONKEYS UNCLE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Van Soest. 1980
Climb onto a small ledge above a black water streak on the left hand side of Brennan's Leap. Climb more left, then rightwards and up onto a protruding block, then to the top.

'''MONKEYS UNCLE DIRECT''' 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start right of Monkeys Uncle. Climb the route directly up to the top. Initial moves off the ground are hard (5b).

'''O DONOGHUE'S DISAPPOINTMENT''' 10m VS
Start 1m right of Monkey's Uncle Direct". Climb straight up and finish over the overhang. Protection is very very poor.
Ciarán Campbell, Martin J. O Donoghue, March 2014

'''3:GRANUAILE''' * 10m E1 5b
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 17/9/91
Climb a straight line starting 2m to the left of Cronins Crack. Climb up to the large triangular incut and out over the small overhang (crux) and then continue on better holds to the top. Protection is poor above the crux.

'''4:CRONINS CRACK''' ** 10m HS 4b
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
One of the first routes in the gap and also one of the most popular. Climb the obvious line in the centre of the crag. Protection is adequate.

'''5:FAT BOYS DON'T FALL''' 10m E1 5c
M Shea, Rob. Stack 1990
Climb the left tending line between Cronins Crack and Daffodils. This route is protected from Daffodils.

'''6:DAFFODILS''' * 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 1984
Start 3m to the right of Cronins Crack, Climb the obvious prominent left tending crack line.

'''7:RIGHT HAND PARALLEL''' 10m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty. 1983
Start as for Evening Falls, but climb the crack line to the left of it.

'''8:UNKNOWN''' 10m E1 6a
Start left of a block sticking out of the ground and climb straight up through an overlap using
a sloping ledge. Finish up another rout

'''9:RUSH HOUR''' * 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, C. Moriarty. 9/7/90
Climb over a small overhang (left of large overhang) to gain a ledge, move out right onto the face above the overhang and climb to the top.

'''10:EVENING FALLS''' 10m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Sweeney. 1983
Climb the left tending (steep) ramp under the overhang to the ledge, climb straight up the corner to the top.

'''11:DEADLINE''' (1) * 10m E2/3 6a
R. Stack, D. Mulcahy, T. Long. 4/5/95
Climb the overhang on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb to the slot in the overhang and then over the overhang. Continue more easily to the top. Protection is poor at the start.

'''12:MOVIES''' * 10m HVS 4c
C. Moriarty (Solo). 1983
Climb the obvious corner to the right of the main overhang. Protection is poor.

'''Right Buttress'''

'''YANKEE''' 7m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Summer '90
This line is on the left of the buttress. Climb up via a ledge system, keeping a holly tree on your left.

'''WET VISITATIONS''' 7m HS 4b
J. Behal, N. O’Leary 23/6/97
Start 2-3m left of Voodoo. Climb the rightwards tending ramp and then up the obvious crack.

'''SOME KIND OF VOODOO''' 7m VS 4c
P. Costelloe, R. Stack. 17/9/91
This climb is situated in the centre of this buttress. Start under a small overhang (at 3m). Climb over the overhang (up and right) to a right tending ramp. Continue up the ramp to the top.

'''DARBY O'GILL''' (1) 9m HVS 5a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start 2m to the left of Sweet Surrender. Climb up under the overhang, move slightly right and over the overhang to gain a small ledge on the left hand side of the arete. Continue on the left of the arete to the top.

'''SWEET SURRENDER''' * 9m E1 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 19/9/94
Climb the obvious thin line on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb over the bulge to the large hand crack and continue up and right to the top.

'''Small crag at first lake, opposite Brennan’s Leap'''

'''O'DONOGHUE'S DIVE''' 5c
A.O’Donoghue solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start at far right of main face on underwater ledge. Climb to horizontal cracks and follow to obvious indentation, then to top. Jump at any time.

'''MORDANT'S MADNESS''' 5a
A. Mordant solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start right of O’Donoghue’s Dive but left of grass patches. Climb overhang.

==Cub Crag.==
This is the most right hand of the lower crags 300m distance above and slightly to the left of Brennans Leap.
[[File:Cub_Crag.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]
'''1:VENTURE SLAB''' 10m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Jan '89
Start 2-3m to the left of Cub Crack. Climb up 3m to the sloping ledge, traverse 1-2m to the right and continue up to the top.

'''2:CUB CRACK''' 7m V.Diff
R. Stack, Rob. Stack, Jan '89.
Climb the obvious crack line in the middle of the crag

'''3:BATS''' * 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. April '90
Climb the obvious right hand overhanging crack.

'''4:FAR AWAY FRIENDS''' 10m E5 6b Damien O'Sullivan

The route takes the wall between the existing routes of Bats and Gymnasty. The start avoids the crack of gymnasty. Protection can be placed in the first horizontal break which is visible from the ground.

Top-roped first, then climbed with preplaced gear.

'''5:GYMNASTY''' (1) 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Climb the arete right of Bats. Start below a steep crack. Climb this and step right and up onto a ledge then up and left to finish.
add comment
==G Buttress==
This is a small north facing crag, at the top of the gully just left of Cub Crag.

'''UNITED AGAIN''' (1) 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
The route is on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious line to the ledge and then up a finger crack to the top.

'''DOWNHEAVEL''' (1) 10m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 4/5/95
Climb up the centre of the face veering slightly right towards the top, finishing on a small ledge.
==H Buttress==
This is a long low wall to the left of Cub Crag.
[[File:H_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]

'''1:MANDELA''' 18m HS 4a
R. Stack, Rob. Stack. 3/7/90
This climb is situated on a small buttress, with a large block on top (right of Rescue Rock). Climb up left of a large crack and then straight up to the top.

'''2:TOM''' 8m Severe
R. Stack, P. Cudden. July '89
This climb is on the left hand side of the wall. Climb the thin crack line. Protection is sparce at the very top but the climbing is easy.

'''3:SUNKEN BUSINESS''' 9m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb straight up the face between Tom and Resonate.

'''4:RESONATE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
Crack line 3m to the right of Tom. Climb to a square cut recess and over a bulge to a ledge.

'''5:JERRY''' 13m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack. July '89
This climb is to the right of Resonate. Climb to the right of a vegetated line. Climb about 10m to gain a ledge, then go over a small overhang to the top. Protection is poor.

'''6:THE BOULD DOG AND ME''' * 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 2/5/90
Climb the black wall 4m to the right of Jerry. Climb about 10m to a large ledge, then slightly right and over an obvious overhang to the top (as for Jerry).

Note:
The next two routes are on a small recessed wall just to the right of The Bould Dog and Me.

'''7:GAMES WITHOUT FRONTIERS''' 10m HS 4b
R.Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
Climb up the middle of the face going over a small overhang at half height.

'''8:THREE IN A BED''' 10m Severe
M. Shea, T. Murphy. Summer '90
Climb the right hand side of the face exiting through a break in the heather at the top.

==Rescue Rock==
There are three small buttresses on the extreme left of the lower crags. The first three routes are on the left hand buttress, and the rest are on the right buttress.
[[File:Rescue_Rock.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]
'''Left Buttress'''

'''0: NOTHING BETTER TO DO''' 12m VS4c
J Healy, L Calnan. Spring 2012
Left of the Free at Last buttress there is an obvious arete just left of a small tree at 3m. At the base of the arete is a broken crack. Climb the crack to a comfortable ledge. Continue up just left of the arete to gain a vegetated ledge - crux. Climb the slab above to another ledge and a belay on the wall behind. Descend by scrambling down the gully on the R of the climb.

'''1:SKYLINE''' 10m Severe
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
Climb the left hand side of the face.

'''2:FREE AT LAST''' * 10m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb the centre of the face (left of Umbongo). Protection is poor.

'''3:UMBONGO''' * 10m Severe
Unknown
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the crag.

'''4:THE CRAZY HORSEMAN''' 9m E5?
??????
Up the middle of the buttress. Escaping right is possible before the overhang at around E1.

'''5:FLIER AND HATTER''' 12m HS 4b
A. Forde solo Jan 2005
Bridge up the chimney left of Siren to gain an indistinct arete on the left. Follow this to top.
Alternatively, start up Rescue Rock and after 5m make a step across the void onto the middle buttress (Severe).

'''6:SIREN''' 10m HS 4b
R. Stack, C. Cudden. 1/4/95
This route is on the left hand side of the right buttress. Climb to a shallow groove near the top, climb through this using a quartz hold on the right.

'''WILLIE ROCKS ROUTE''' 10m E3 6a
W. Rock c2000
Climb the centre of the face between Umbongo and Siren exiting through a break in a small roof.

'''7:RESCUE ROCK''' * 12m Severe
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
This route is just left of middle up the face of the buttress. Climb straight up from the large ledge and veer slightly right towards the top.

'''8:QUARTZ MOVEMENT''' * 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, T. Long 4/5/95
Start just right of Rescue Rock. Climb the right hand edge of the face.
[[File:MoP_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''9:MOTHER OF PRAGUE''' *** 20m E1 5b
I. Counihan, M Barry. July '90
The obvious line to the left of Willie Wonka. Start directly below the line on top. Climb up to the base of the overhanging corner move left and climb up moving slightly right towards to the top.

'''10:WILLIE WONKA''' ** 20m E2 6a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 27/12/89
This route is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the right hand side of the face to a ledge (large block), climb up and into a right tending crack/corner (left of holly tree). Climb the overhang and continue straight up to the top.
==Small Crag directly above Rescue Rock==
[[File:Gap_crag_topo.jpg|alt=|center]]

1. '''MICRO **''' 15m E2 5c ''A. Forde, J. Hussey April 2005'' Climb overhanging arete immediately left of main corner to good hold and continue steeply to large ledge at 6m. Continue up arete on right to top.

'''2. Vodka & Redbull''' 15m VS 4b. ''J. Hussey, I Counihan, April 2005.'' Climb into the cave. Move out of cave and onto ledge on good holds. Continue up arête to top.

'''3. Young Love''' 15m HS 4a ''I Counihan, J. Hussey, April 2005.'' Climb the corner to the right of the cave.

'''4. Sing Song Bully''' 15m E1 5c ''J. Hussey, D Casey, June 2009.'' Climb large crack to ledge. From ledge climb up the face and through small roof.

==J Buttress==
This buttress is behind and to the right of the Main Face.

'''GREAT SLAVE''' (1) * 40m E1 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
1. Start 8m left of Oozum Croozum. Climb up and left under a small set of overhangs and past a square wedged block, then climb up and right (crux). Belay at the base of the next wall. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. Move up to gain a quartz vein and traverse right along the wall under a small roof. Exit past this roof and belay on a large sloping ledge.

'''OOZUM CROOZUM''' (1) 20m E2/3 5c/6a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/5/90
Start directly below the arete. Climb to the corner in the arete. Below the top, traverse right onto the right face and then up to a ledge. Climb the face above (poorly protected) to a large block to finish. Descend to the left.
add comment

'''APPARITION''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney, Aidan Forde. April `95.
Start just right of Ozum Croozum.Climb ramp to overhanging groove.Surmount this (crux) and straight up wall above keeping well right of grass ledge.Climb short steep wall with overhanging block.Exit on right side of overhang.

==The Main Face==
This is the large blank face above Black Stream bridge. It is bordered on the right by overhangs and vegetation up high and on the left by a striking arete, P'u.
[[File:Main_Face.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]

'''1:CARRAIGS''' (1) 40m E1 5c
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
1. 15m Start immediately left of P'u, climb the face left of a tree to gain a good hand crack, above this ascend a short corner to a ledge, belay here.
2. 25m At the left end of the ledge climb the face to a break in the roof, continue to the top of the face above.

'''2:FOUR YELLOW''' 40m E2 5c
A. Forde, C. Cudden 17/8/97
1.As for Carraigs
2.Traverse left from belay tree for 5m to stand on a very narrow ledge. Climb up to a break with large boulders. Move left and climb overhang. Continue straight over breaks in middle of face to top.

'''3:AS GOOD AS IT GETS''' E3 5c ***
Denis Tangney.June`05
Start 3m up and left of PÙ on a flat stone.Climb steeply up for 8m (bold) to gain protection.Veer slightly left in direction of first bolt.Clip this and climb crack (crux) up to second bolt.Mantle up under overhang.Climb over hang on right side of bolt to finish.

'''4:P'U''' ** 30m E2 5b
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
The large arete left of a tree filled gully. Start on the left face, move up and right to gain a large ledge at half height, continue onto the right wall but move immediately onto the arete and continue on the arete to a belay ledge. Protection is not good. Abseil off.
Second Pitch: Traverse left approx. 4m from the belay tree. Climb directly up on poor quality rock and past a very large hanging block on the right. Continue up the arete and wall on the left to the top. Belay off large block on top.
A. Forde, D. Tangney. August 2005.

'''5:RUFUS IS A TIT MAN''' * 50m E2 5b/6a/5a
A. Forde [1,2], R. Stack[3]. 14/4/95
1. 10m Start 3m right of the P'u arete, climb the shallow scoop to a sloping ledge and then climb a short corner to a large ledge. Poor protection.
2. 20m Climb the crack line on the left side of the ledge to a holly tree.
3. 20m Start just left of the holly tree and climb over a small overhang. Climb up over large blocks and move slightly right. Climb up and left (past a triangular incut) through the overhang to the top.

'''6:OUT OF MY REACH''' ** 45m HVS/E1 4c,5a
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
This climb is on the left hand side of the blank face to the right of the black water stain.
1. 10m Go straight up to a large ledge which contains a large tree.
2. 35m From the ledge climb up right of the black water stain (crux), poor protection. At the top of the water stain move left and climb straight up. The route follows a series of sloping ledges and up into a groove. Climb through and straight up to belay under block overhang.

'''7:THE OVERLAP''' (1) ** 45m E3 6a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 23/4/90
It takes the obvious left tending diagonal line on the right side of the main face.
1. Start 20m to the right of the start of Out of my Reach. Climb vertically to gain the bottom of the overlap, continue up and left to a block at 15m. Move left from here to a hanging belay.
2. Move up and right from the belay through the overhang via an obvious groove and then to the top on easier ground.

'''8:DEMASIADO''' ** 40m E1 5b,5a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 1/5/90
1. 25m Start under a white wall with two vertical cracks (at 10m) immediately right of The Overlap. Climb directly up to the base of the white wall and step right to a small ledge. Move up via two vertical cracks to a sloping ramp. Move right to a small ledge and then up and left to a small belay ledge, beneath the overhang.
2. 15m From the belay ledge move left and then up to a large ledge on the left. Continue up to a right tending corner. Above this move up the face to a square-cut hole and up and right to finish. Belay slightly right.

'''VARIATION TO DEMASIADO''' 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 1/5/90
Pitch 2. More left from the belay ledge and climb the right side of the upper face to the top.

'''9:LOS POTATOS''' * E2 6a,5b
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney April `95
(1) Climb shallow corner right of Demasiado(bold crux)and straight up to belay stance at 20m.
(2) Move right and up to top 20m.

'''10:VIVE LA LEGION''' * 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, D. Stuttar. 4/4/95
This route is on the white lichen-covered wall left of The Will of Zog. Start on the big block. Climb up the arete to the first small overhang. Climb the hand crack and continue up to the black roof. Move out right (crux) to gain a small ledge and traverse to a holly tree. Belay here.

'''11:THE WILL OF ZOG''' * 35m HVS 5b,5a
I. Counihan [1,3], A. Forde [2]. 12/4/90
This route takes a weak crack system to an obvious corner under a roof about 40m right of Out of My Reach and immediately right of a set of roofs.
1. 12m Start under the left hand end of a large block. Climb the off width crack to the top of the block. Climb the thin crack line to the corner under the overhang. Belay here.
2. 6m Traverse left under the overhang to gain the face and continue up to a ledge. Many parties abseil from here.
3. 17m From the right hand end of the ledge climb up and left of the chimney. Climb this for 5m and regain the right arete.

'''12:VIVALDI''' 30m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 12/4/90
The crack line immediately right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small ramp and the crackline above to a ledge. Continue on the same line above to a short corner. Climb this and step left and up to gain a ledge, (the route can finish here with an abseil from the holly tree). From the ledge climb an easy left tending crack and then a short face with a good flake. Belay on trees above. To descend, go uphill under a large chockstone and right to the descent gully.

'''13:ICY FINGERS''' 18m VS 4c
R. Stack, D. Doolan. 3/1/90
This route starts just right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small corner to the right of a small tree. Climb a crack to gain a ledge. Traverse left and climb 2m to gain another ledge. Climb straight in under an overhang and traverse out right to finish the route.

'''14:AND IT STONED ME''' 18m HVS 5a/5b
P. Costelloe, R. Morrison. 1992
Start as for Icy Fingers to gain the ledge, move slightly right and climb straight up the face, using the right tending crack near the top.

==Póirse Gully==
This is the large boulder-strewn gully that runs through the western cliffs, directly above Black Stream Bridge. A lot of the boulders in the gully are loose and care should be taken while in the gully. Approach by walking up a small stream above and left of the bridge and turning right at the top. Walk more or less straight up to the Gully.

'''DOUGLAS TURD''' (1) 7m Diff
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress between the forks of the upper Póirse gully. There is a small overhang in the centre of the buttress. Climb the left hand side of the buttress.

'''LORD DENNING''' (1) 7m V.Diff
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Climb the short corner 2m right of Douglas Turd, right of the overhang.

'''1:GET A JOB''' (1) 20m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/6/91
Start 1m left of Life In Windy Weather. Climb the buttress between Life In Windy Weather and a large crackline to the left. Enter a left facing groove at half height and finish up on easier ground, tending right. Belay near a large block.

'''2:LIFE IN WINDY WEATHER''' (1) * 25m E1 5b
A. Forde, N. Gregory. 30/4/90
Start at an alcove on the left of the north wall in the middle of Póirse Gully. Climb through the alcove and the overhang above it. Finish through the prominent corner above. Belay at the holly tree below the top. Descend left.

'''3:THE STOOP''' (1) *** 30m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 7/5/95
Start just left of Echo Beach. Climb directly up to the right hand edge of the block wedged under the overhang. Traverse left under the block, climb onto the block, then move out right onto the face above the overhang and straight up to the top. Belay on a holly tree above.

'''4:AIR TIME''' 30m E4/5 6a/b
S. Hennessey
Start as for The Stoop but head for the higher right hand roof. Arrange gear before going left
under the overhang (hard) and finish straight up the headwall above.

'''5:THE MUPPET SHOW''' E1 5b *
Start two meters right of The Stoop below a short faint crack.Climb directly up to ledge at 15m.Move right to join Echo Beach (?) and follow this route to finish. 30m.
First ascent; Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde. April `96.

'''6:PEREGRINE''' ** 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty I. Counihan. 1990
(Variation to the first pitch of Echo Beach)
Start at the back of the cave. Climb to the top of the cave facing out, then traverse out and climb up to Peregrine Ledge. Continue up one of the other routes or descend off the ledge.

'''7:ECHO BEACH''' ** 30m E2 4c,5c
A. Forde, J. Price. 1985
1. 10m Start 5m left of an obvious chimney (cave), climb diagonally up and right to gain Peregrine ledge.
2. 20m Climb the arete (crux) from the ledge, turning the overhang above on the left before finishing over two easy benches.

'''8:SUN DOGS''' (1) * 30m E1 5b,5c
R. Stack[1],A.Forde[2]. 5/5/95
1. 10m Climb the shallow steep groove just left of the obvious cave. Climb straight up to Peregrine Ledge. Belay here. Protection is poor on the first pitch.
2. 20m Start 2m right of the 2nd pitch of Echo Beach (where the overhang 2m above fades out). Climb from the ledge to a vertical crack and then to a breach in the first small overhang, move slightly left and then over the top overhang.

==Peregrine Ledge.==
Access is by climbing up Peregrine or the first pitch of Echo Beach or from the base of P'u scramble up a steep grassy gully to the ledge. Alternatively, from the large cave in the gully traverse right, over a holly tree, then walk left and up to Peregrine Ledge. The ledge is recognisable by the large blocks wedged between the face and the ledge. The following five routes are based around Peregrine ledge.
[[File:PLedge.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
'''9:THANK YOU IVAN, THANK YOU LORD''' ** 15m HVS 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Start on Peregrine Ledge. Start from the large chock stone wedged between the face and the ledge. The route takes a direct vertical line to the top from this chock stone.

'''10. SHORT BUT SWEET''' 8m HS 4b
R. Creagh (Solo). 24/03/11.
Climb the obvious shallow corner left of Red Dragon

'''11:RED DRAGON''' 20m VS 4c
R. Stack, P.Costelloe. 29/9/91
Start on the grassy ledge to the right and below Peregrine Ledge, right of the cave with the wedged blocks. Climb the right hand edge of the face to the top.

'''HUBBLE''' (1) 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress left of Kestrel Buttress. Climb up the centre of the buttress and over the block at the top.

==Kestrel Buttress==
This is a small buttress on the left of the upper gully which contains the following three climbs.
[[File:Kestrel.jpg|alt=|center|671x671px]]

'''PÚNCÁNACH''' ** 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. March '90
Climb the prominent crackline left of Kestrel. Protection is poor at the top.

'''Bundánach''' * 20m E2 5c
???
Climb between Púncánach and Kestrel directly to the chains. Excellent protection.

'''KESTREL''' * 18m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, D. Mulcahy. 1985
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the face

'''MIDGES''' (1) 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
Around the arete to the right of Kestrel climb the north facing wall to the overhang before swinging around onto the arete to share the same finish as Kestrel.

==The High Buttress==
This is the large buttress left of Póirse Gully. It contains two large ledges, the lower one having a large overhang above it. There are many fine long routes on this buttress. At the back left hand side of the first ledge there is a holly tree which acts as an abseil point. Because the overhang hinders further ascent, many of the routes finish on the first ledge. Different routes can also be combined. The first pitch of Seventh Heaven and finishing on Jamaica Plain makes a fine route.
The top ledge (Burnt Ledge) can be scrambled onto from the right hand side. From the base of the buttress traverse around and up the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the shallow steep gully, which is overgrown with trees. This is quite a tricky ascent
[[File:High_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]
'''1:L'ORANGE''' (1) ** 20m E2 5c/6a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
This route is on the extreme left of the buttress. At 15m there is a large detached block / flake below a prominent overhang. This route is on the left hand side of the large block of which the right hand side is Deoch Aimsir. Climb directly up to the left hand side of the block and then continue up the crack to the roof. Surmount this and continue more easily to a holly tree belay. Abseil here.

'''2:DEOCH AIMSIR''' (1) 25m E1/2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 17/9/90
Start right of L'orage. Climb the right hand side of the block, then traverse right under the roof to a large ledge. Move up and left from the ledge (crux) to gain the face above the overhang, continue up to a holly tree, belay here. Abseil or continue up Jamaica Plain or Seventh Heaven.

'''3:JAMAICA PLAIN''' * 70m HVS 5a,5a,4b,5a
A. Forde, M Shea. 1985
1. 30m Start 10m left of Seventh Heaven. Climb a corner system moving slightly left and then right, climb a corner to a large ledge below a prominent crack. Belay here.
2. 7m Climb the off width crack through the overhang and then move left to a large ledge with a holly tree. Belay here
3. 20m Climb the left side of the buttress to Burnt Ledge.
4. 13m Start on the left hand edge of the face, climb to an obvious corner / overhang with a large crack, climb about 1m right of the crack to the top (crux).

'''VARIATION ON 2ND PITCH OF JAMAICA PLAIN''' (1) 10m HVS/E1 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
Instead of climbing the off-width crack, climb the thin line just to the right of it. Gain the sloping ledge and traverse left to finish as for original route.

'''4:INFERNO''' (1) 35m E1 5b,4c
A. Forde [1], R. Stack [2]. 15/9/90
Face and groove between Jamaica Plain and Seventh Heaven.
1. 25m Climb straight up for about 5m, move out right, then up and left again (to round obvious hard move) and continue straight up to a large ledge.
2. 10m From the ledge move up and left over an overhang on good holds. Continue up to a holly tree . Abseil or continue up the third pitch of Jamaica Plain.

'''5:SEVENTH HEAVEN''' *** 60m E1 4c,5b
G.Sexton [1], C. Moriarty [2]. 25/8/90
At the left hand side of the buttress and left of the prominent overhang is a white thorn tree. This route takes the obvious corner above this with initial moves over large overhanging blocks.
1. 25m Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.

'''6:FIR BOLG''' * 20m E2 5c/6a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 18/9/90
Start 3m right of Seventh Heaven, close to a white thorn bush. Gain a ledge and then a large block/ledge (this ledge is shared with Seventh Heaven). From the ledge make a long reach/jump up and right to gain a large ledge on the outer face. Climb up and right on the outer face to a groove. Continue on easier ground to the large ledge. From the ledge abseil or continue up another route.

'''7:THE BIRD''' (1) * 20m VS 4c/5a A0
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 29/9/90
Climb to the large roof above a black corner (alcove). Aid climb out through the roo

'''My Left Foot''' E3 6a Start below the black corner of The Bird. Climb directly up to the smaller roofed corner 2m right of the roof crack of The Bird. Breach the overhang above on massive holds. Small cams can be arranged from a strenuous position, at the lip, before the fingery crux gains the slab. Finish directly up the wall above to the ledge. R. Browner, R. MacAllister. 16.04.11 (The leader’s foot was broken by rock-fall, below the roof, during the ascent).

'''8:THE UNFORGETTABLE FIRE''' ** 73m HVS 4c,5a,5a,4b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. February 1986
1. 20m Climb the obvious centre crack over the overhang to a large grassy ledge.
A. Forde, M Barry. 1985
2. 20m From the ledge go back to the back wall and traverse right along the obvious rock ramp. Go around the corner and slightly down to gain a shallow steep groove with awkward moves to a large block ledge. Belay here.(Large Hex).
3. 20m Traverse along a ledge over the main roof. Mid way along, climb up the wall between two parallel cracks. Climb to Burnt Ledge, emerging just right of a large boulder.
4. 13m From Burnt Ledge climb directly up the wall through the obvious weakness in the overhang.

'''9:GANGSTER OF LOVE''' (1) 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, M Shea. 8/9/90
Between The Unforgettable Fire and Scairibhín. Climb directly up to a finger crack at 15m. Ascend this and belay at the large ledge above.

'''10:SCAIRBHIN''' ** 65m E1 5b,5b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 8/9/90
At the right hand side of the crag, some 5m to the right of The Unforgettable Fire is an obvious open square cut groove, some 5/6m high. This is the start of Scairibhín.
1. 30m Climb the crack line on the left of the groove to the end of the chimney. Move right and up, to a ledge beneath an overhanging bulge with an obvious weakness (some parties belay here before the crux moves). Climb up the groove onto obvious block ledge.
2. 22m From this belay ledge climb directly up a shallow rounded groove. Continue up, emerging at the right hand corner of Burnt Ledge.
3. 13m As for final pitch of The Unforgettable Fire.

'''VARIATION TO FINAL PITCH OF SCAIRBHIN''' (1) 12m HS 4b
M Shea, A. Forde. 8/9/90
Climb the right hand side of the top buttress above Burnt Ledge. Climb up 4m and step right onto a large block, then more left onto the face to gain the central crackline. Finish up this crackline.

'''11:BIMBI LIMBO''' (1) 50m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/6/91
This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb. EDIT: From the obvious ledge stay on the arete for HVS, step right for HS finish.

'''12:J.C.B.''' (1) 40m VS 4c
D. Commins, M. Leen. 11/5/09
This is the gully up and to the right of Bimbi Limbo, the one with a small tree stump buried in it. Move
up and left onto the side wall and continue up, passing the overhanging block/ledge. From the ledge, stay right of the arete and continue straight up to Burnt Ledge.

==Aspen Ledge==
Access to this crag is from Burnt Ledge (top ledge on The High Buttress). From Burnt Ledge traverse south and down to a narrow ledge with a steep face above it.

'''THE GROOVE''' 22m HVS 5a
P. Sexton, G. Sexton. Aug '90
Climb the obvious crack line on the left hand side of the crag to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a short wall to the top (crux).

'''AN EVENING WITH NIMBUS''' ** 22m E1 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug '90
From the ledge start on the highest of two boulders. Climb the very centre of the wall over the overhangs.

'''THE JAGGED EDGE''' (1) ** 22m E1/2 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug \'90
Start at the very lowest point of the arete. Climb the arete to the large block ledge. Finish up the short wall to the top. Protection is poor.
==Faill Ceol==
This crag is above and to the left of The High Buttress. There is a large overhang in the centre of the crag.
[[File:Dunloe_ceol.jpg|alt=|center]]
 
[[File:FC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''RELICS''' (1) 10m HS 4b
Rob. Stack, R+G Stack. 14/7/90
Start 20m from the end of the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious crack to the large ledge. Belay here on an oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''MOMENTARY LAPSE OF REASON''' (1) 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, Rob + G. Stack. 10/9/90
Start 1.5m to the right of Relics. Climb straight up (right of large shallow scoop) and move slightly left near the top. Belay here on the oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''GASH''' 35m VS 4b
R. Stack, J. Forde. 13/7/90
Climb the black steps left of the main overhang (left of ivy), traverse right and up onto a large ledge. From here climb 10m to a large oak tree. Abseil or climb a small chimney on the right to the top.

'''PREACHÁIN''' ** 45m E2 5b,5c,5c
A. Forde, P. Falvey. 21/4/90
1. 25m Start under the left hand end of the main roof. Climb the vertical line towards the left hand end of the roof. 5m from the roof veer left and then traverse to belay on a large block. Protection is poor.
2. 10m Move left and out from the belay to gain a ledge on the outer face. Climb up on easier ground and belay.
3. 10m Traverse right from the belay under a small overhang. Gain a crack above the left centre of the overhang and climb above it. Finish easily through a shallow chimney above.

'''VARIATION TO 1ST PITCH OF PREACHÁIN''' (1) 25m HVS 5a
A. Forde, B. Forde. July '94
Start as for Preachain. Climb up 5m. Take a faint line heading diagonally left, then head straight up to the belay ledge. Protection is poor.

'''THE SIGN''' *** 65m E2 5b,A2,5c Or free in one pitch at E5 6a.
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 5/8/90
1. 25m As for the first pitch of Preacháin
2. 10m From the ledge climb free for a few moves and aid traverse out right and along the overlap line to a belay at the lip of the roof. There are pegs in place but some of these were rusty looking in 1994.
3. 30m From the ledge climb the wall directly. A vertical crack tells the way through the overhang to the top.

'''CRANES BILL''' 20m HS 4b
A. Forde, R. Stack 19/5/95
Start 3m left of Meltdown. Climb an indistinct line to the left side of the triangular roof (Meltdown goes to the right side). Back climb the route or continue up Meltdown.

'''MELTDOWN''' *** 60m HVS 4c,5b
A. Forde, A. Devlin. April '86
1. 35m Climb the obvious corner on the right of the face, under the main roof. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right and up to a small ledge, then climb up and right to a larger ledge with a small holly tree. Belay here.
2. 25m Climb the obvious line to the break in the overhang, climb this and continue straight up to the top.
Lots of Friends are required for this climb.

'''KUDOS''' *** 50m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Sheahan 13/7/96
1. Start as for Meltdown. After 3m move right to a large ledge. Traverse right along the top of the ramp to a vertical fist crack. Climb this and the corner above to under the overhang. Move left and up to a ledge and then right to under the upper overhang (awkward). Move up and left to the meltdown belay ledge (small to medium cams).
2. From the belay move right and up. Climb the middle of the wide black water streak following ledges and thin cracks and passing a small wedged block immediately to the left. After the wedged block gain the crack system on the right and follow this to under the overhang that crosses the whole face. Step right and the up and left to a good ledge. Follow a curving ramp on the right to a protruding block on the skyline. Belay at this block or further back at the top.

'''BOSCH''' 50m E1 5b, 4c
A. Forde, R. Stack 4/10/97
1. Start 5 m right of a holly tree which is close to an arete approx. 3m right of the Meltdown corner. Climb a slightly left-trending crack line to approx. 8m. Step up and right to a corner/crack system which trends slightly right. Belay on a large ledge near some trees.
2. Climb an obvious corner, then a face avoiding an overhang on the left. From a ledge follow a faint crack line trending right to the top

'''SURF 350''' 25m VS 4c
A. Forde, I.Counihan. 29/4/90
Obvious right facing corner on the far right hand side of the wall. Climb the corner to the off width crack, continue up and left to finish at a break in the top of the crag.

'''OH MERCY''' (1) 25m E1 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 14/7/90
Start 1m right of Surf 350, climb the obvious line to a very small ledge with a small overhang 1m above, climb over the overhang and move slightly left and continue straight to the top.

==Ash Valley==
This large crag is situated directly behind Cushvally Lake. About 300m past the Colleen Bawn house there are some old ruins. Just before the ruins, on the right side of the road, a path leads down to a small foot bridge on the north side of the lake. Walk to the lake and then to the crag.

'''THE ROOSTER''' (1) 30m HS 4b
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
This route is on the left hand side of the buttress. Start in the obvious groove, climb to the ledge and proceed left (crux) and up.

'''TIME BANDITS''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde.
(1)Start at shallow corner 2m left of “Coladh Samh”. Climb corner and move slightly right to small ledge.Move left and climb wall with square cut hole(crux) and continue up to holly tree belay. 25m
(2)Climb slightly left to within one meter of small overhang.Traverse right to good holds and straight up to wedged block.Climb this on left side(crux) to a good belay ledge. 25m.

'''COLADH SÁMH''' (1) ** 50m E1 5b?,5b,A1
C. Moriarty, D. Murphy. 6/5/90
1. 20m Start at the left hand end of the arch, climb the corner and continue straight to the ledge (ash tree).
2. Climb straight up a thin crack, one aid point (small wire) to some green shaded rock above. Move slightly right and up to obvious overhanging corner left of the main overhang - hanging belay.
3. Climb the overhang (one aid point) and straight to the top.

'''A SPECTACLE FOR SWANS''' 58m E2 5c
C. Moriarty, M McGillycuddy. August '86
1. 50m Under the highest point of the crag is a curved roof (arch), about 4m off the ground. This route climbs into the corner some 6 to 7m to the right of this. Climb on good holds into the obvious corner and beyond to the small right angled roof (25m). Climb through this and up over a ledge system, to a belay stance under the final overhang, underneath an obvious 'v' in the sky line. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. 8m From the stance climb through the 'v'.

'''RIVER RUN''' E2 5c **
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney. April `98.
Start 25m right of “ Spectacle for Swans”.Climb black wall to obvious narrow chimney.Climb this (crux) straight up to holly tree belay.Abseil from tree. 25m.

==Auger Lake Crag==
There has been more recent
development around the crags behind Auger Lake. Not much
information is available on these crags yet apart from a few pictures floating around in
cyberspace on climbing.ie. The grid reference is 874857.
Go explore
==Overhang Crag==
A small, steep crag west of the Turnpike Rocks.
Directions Park 100m before or after the Turnpike Rocks. The crag is visible across the valley, about
250m away. GR: 874855.

Conditions/Aspect
One face faces south, the other east. No seepage.

Descent
Walk back and left (as you face
the crag) for a few hundred metres before a safe descent can
be made down to the level of the crag
[[File:Overhang_Crag.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]

'''1.MINANS CALL''' 8m HVS 5b
D. Duggan, R. Creagh. 16/04/11.
Climb the obvious crack on the south face of the buttress. Short but steep.

'''2.AIRY FAERIE''' 8m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D. Duggan. 16/04/11.
Start as for Minans Call.Get gear in the horizontal break and traverse right to a stance on the arete. Climb this to the top

==Jigsaw Wall==
A more recently developed crag with some of the hardest routes in the Gap. Most of the
routes are short but quite steep and take aesthetic lines on excellent rock.

Directions
Park on the left just after the turnpike rocks. The crag is mostly hidden from view at the road
and lies up on the right (west) side of the valley.
It is reached by crossing the river and
walking up and left (less than 10 minutes). GR: 873853.

Conditions/Aspect
The crag seeps a lot so wait a day or two after rain. North facing so bring plenty of layers.
Descent
Chains for lowering off most routes. Otherwise walk right (as you face the crag) and down
[[File:Jigsaw_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]

'''1.RICHARDS ROUTE''' 9m Severe
R. Creagh (Solo). 25/03/11.
Scramble up to the base of a slab around the left corner of the crag. Climb the centre of the slab.

'''2.PINK MOON''' 9m HVS 5a
R. Creagh, D. Duggan, 16/04/11.
Climb the face left of the obvious wide crack. 41

'''3.NAME UNKNOWN''' 8m HS 4b
???
The obvious wide crack on the left of the crag.

'''4.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m VS 5a
???
Start 2m right of a large crack. Climb the faint crack to a block, move left onto a large and
finish up the corner. A long reach helps at the start.

'''5.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and finish boldly up the blunt arete.

'''6.NAME UNKNOWN''' 18m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and continue rightwards across the crag along the crack systems, finishing up Mighty Mouse. A very pumpy route!

'''7.HAWKER''' 12m E2 5c
S. Hennessey
A brilliant line, taking the obvious splitter crack on the left of the crag. Hard to start.

'''8:WICKIDY WOCK''' 12m E3 6a
S. Hennessey
Another stunning route, taking the next splitter crack and finishing up left.

'''9.NAME UNKNOWN''' 12m E5 6a
K. Power
Start up Wickety Wock but at the start of the traverse head straight up to the chains.

'''10.MIGHTY MOUSE''' 10m E1 5c
S. Hennessey
Climb the obvious fingers to hands crack on the right side of the crag.

==Further South==

There is more climbing further south, with a few routes worthy of note.

'''BLACK DYNAMITE''' 25m E5 4b, 6b

D. Duggan [2], R. Creagh [1].16/04/11

(one wire pre-placed on first ascent). Left of Richard‟s Route at Jigsaw Wall is a black corner under a large roof.The second pitch starts here. The first can be done independently.An onsight of the route would be quite bold.
1. (10m) Abseil in from the corner(or walk around to bottom), down the black, right-facing
corner with a monster crack. Climb this (a solo without size 5 or above cams) back up to the original corner. 2. (15m) Start in the right hand of 2 corners and climb easily up to the roof (good wire in small crack on left side of roof). Pull out through the roof with a strenuous sequence and gradually fight your way up the blunt arete to a good hold above the lip. Finish easier.

'''ECHINECEA''' 25m E3 5c

E. Kennedy, D. Duggan. 17/04/10.

This route takes a steep crack line south of Jigsaw Wall that is best seen from the grassy slope near Richard‟s Route. Unfortunately it is often wet.Start in the corner left of the upper crack and follow it to the roof(Escape left possible at HS). From here move airily out right and follow the crack to the top left hand side of the cliff.

==Glas Lough Crag==

From the lay-by at the head of the Gap head up the track towards Purple Mountain. After about 15 minutes the crags appear on the right. The rock looks broken on most of these cliffs with few very obvious lines. There is a rowan tree near the river towards the north end of the crag. Head straight towards the wall from this tree.
[[File:Glc.jpg|center|thumb|282x282px]]
'''STRANGE CREATION''' 12m HVS 5a

R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 22/05/10.

Near the wall there is a small arch created by 2 blocks. Just right of this a thin, broken, right-trending crack starts. Start here and follow the crack until you can gain the ramp. Go right up this for 2m and then straight up under a thin, closed crack further up. Exit right (loose)

Gap Of Dunloe

2026-04-09T12:36:48Z

Jermur:

What follows is 90% originally edited by Richard Stack as part of the 1995 Gap of Dunloe rock climbing guidebook which is out of print. Thanks to Richard for allowing us to include the guide in the database.

A '1' AFTER A ROUTE NAME MEANS THAT THE ROUTE HAS HAD ONLY ONE ASCENT, DUE TO THE LACK OF ASCENTS MANY OF THE GRADES MAY BE INACCURATE. OVER 50 % OF THE ROUTES HAVE NOT HAD A THIRD ASCENT.

==PUBLISHER'S NOTE==
The sport described in this book is an inherently dangerous activity and any person, especially if inexperienced, undertaking it, should approach it with caution and under appropriate supervision. The publisher and contributors cannot accept responsibility for any accidents, injury or loss suffered by any reader of this book however it may be caused. All descriptions and grades are offered as suggestions only and are not to be taken as definitive.

==ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS==
I would like to thank all the climbers who have contributed to this guide book, particularly Peter Costelloe, Aidan Forde, Con Moriarty, Donie Mulcahy and Tim Long. Aidan Forde wrote the sections on geology and natural history. Cathal Cudden did all the art work.

==Introduction==
Due to the fact that there has been no guide, unpredictable weather and a very small number of local based climbers, the amount of climbing that has been done in Kerry has been limited. Due to the lack of ascents many of the grades may be inaccurate. It is hoped that this guide will bring the grading of climbs into line with the rest of the country. This guide should only be considered as a preliminary guide.

There have been a number of routes done on the smaller crags but these haven't been included.
A point worth noting is that the majority of all new routes done in the Gap were done on sight without prior inspection or cleaning.
Care should be taken when descending from the crags especially at night as there are a lot of holes between the boulders.
Like all inland crags the Gap has an over healthy-population of midges, so if it's calm don't arrive without midge repellent !
[[File:Gap1.gif|alt=|center]]

[[File:Gap2.gif|alt=|center]]

==Guide Updates==
An updated copy of the guide is held at the bar in Kate Kearneys Cottage. Any new routes can be written into this guide. Any comments on grades or route descriptions are welcome.

An updated version of the guide has been produced by Richard Creagh

[[File:Gap of Dunloe updated guide.pdf|link=Special:FilePath/Gap_of_Dunloe_updated_guide.pdf]]

==Access==
To date there have been very few problems and it will remain so as long as there is no interference or distraction to the horses. Only climb near the road late in the evening or when it is very quiet. When parking keep your car well in off the road and park only at the really obvious areas as trucks/tractors use the road as well as the Jaunting Cars. When using the area always remember that all the land is privately owned. On busy Summer days it is quicker to walk from Kate's car park due to the fact that there can be hundreds of cyclists and strollers in the Gap on a weekend day.

==Geology==
The rock in the Gap of Dunloe (and in all of the Cork and Kerry mountains) is Old Red Sandstone. This sedimentary rock was formed 350 million years ago in the beds and flood plains of very large rivers that carried eroded sediment southwards from mountain ranges in what we now know as Donegal and Mayo. These rivers flowed into a broad landlocked basin in what is now Cork and Kerry and the sediment was deposited in the rivers' flood plains and channels as they entered the basin. The basin was subsiding as the sediment was deposited (like Death Valley today) and eventually over 6,000m thickness of sediment was deposited.

The sands and gravel transported by the rivers were rich in iron and because these were deposited in contact with the air in a desert environment, this iron turned to iron oxide. This iron oxide (also called rust) coated the grains of quartz that make up the sandstone and gave it the reddish colour that is a striking feature of the local scenery.

As the rock was laid down in shallow water it formed layers when the sediment was carried suddenly by floodwaters. These layers are called beds and they have been preserved in the solid rock as the horizontal breaks (bedding) that are characteristic of the climbing here. Also common are smaller bedding plains that occur between the larger ones and at an angle to them. This cross-bedding shows the direction of flow of the river at the time the sediment was deposited. Preserved current ripples (similar to ripples seen in the sand at a beach) can also be used to find the ancient flow direction. The steeper face of the ripple is the downstream side. These ripples are common on the scree of Póirse Gully.

Although bedding was originally horizontal, it is now commonly folded into waves. This occurred 270 million years ago when the beds were crumpled into folds by the force of the earth's plates colliding when the local mountains were formed. The bedding throughout the Gap is folded.

Folding wasn't the only result of the mountain-building process. As the rocks were subjected to great pressures they commonly fractured. Sometimes the two sides of a fracture moved due to the pressure and a fault was formed. Most of the steep gullies in the Gap are faults. However, if the fracture was infilled with pure crystalline quartz, a vein was formed. These veins are common in the Gap and the white quartz may be mixed with a soft green mineral, chlorite. Chlorite is especially common along bedding plains that have acted as faults.

==Glaciation==
The bedrock of the Gap is just one part of the formation of the climbing crags here. The various glaciations of the ice age were just as important in the formation of the cliffs. During the most recent glaciation, from 120,000 to 15,000 years ago, the ice moved north from an ice cap near Kenmare before coming up against the barrier of the McGillycuddy's Reeks. This ice flowed around the Reeks to the east near Killarney and to the west around the Caragh River valley. As the ice level dammed up against the Reeks it eventually reached their lowest point. Like water flowing over a dam, the ice flowed over the low point of the Reeks, cut deeply into the mountain and formed the Gap as it did so. Because this is a place where the ice broke through a barrier, it is called a glacial breach and the Gap is a famous example of such a feature. The climbing crags are therefore the result of the erosion caused by this glacier flowing to the north. The lakes of the Gap are also due in part to erosion where the glacier cut into the bedrock floor and also due in part to material that was eroded upstream and dumped downstream as mounds of loose rocky debris. Such piles of eroded material are called moraines and there are several good examples on the floor of the Gap, to the east and north of the Black Lake. These moraines are the reason for the lakes existence as they dammed the valley when the ice finally melted away.

==Fauna & Flora==
The types of life found in the Gap of Dunloe are controlled to a large degree by the geology and climate of the area. The acidic rocks and the relatively infertile moraine soils derived from the same rocks make for a reduced flora that is adapted to life in these nutrient-poor conditions. In addition to these factors the area receives about 2500mm of rain a year. The constant flow of water through the ground has had the effect of leaching the iron (these rocks are rich in iron) from between the grains of quartz, in the rocks and soil profile. At one level it is deposited as a layer of iron (iron pan) and this effectively seals off the drainage of the soil. When this happens the effect of the constant wetting is compounded by the water-logging of the soil from the lack of drainage. This starts the formation of blanket bog and except in better areas, the entire Gap is covered in it.

Heather is the dominant plant on the-walk in to the crags. There are three species present and the most common is Ling Heather. This has very small leaves, just visible to the naked eye and packed closely together. Bell Heather has larger linear leaves and flowers positioned at various points on the stem. It is similar to Cross Leaved Heather which has flowers only at the top of the stem in a tight bunch, all facing the same way. The Cross Leaved Heather also has very small hairs on its leaves. Some very rare heathers grow in Connemara but the three described are the only common heathers in Ireland.

In spring, look out for the Giant Butterwort and Sundew in boggy pools at the base of the crags. These plants have sticky enzyme-tipped hairs that trap insects on their leaves. This is an adaptation to the very nutrient-poor condition of the soil - the insect bodies are digested by the plant and essential minerals are obtained.

An interesting tree growing on some of the bigger ledges, to the left of The High Buttress is the Aspen. This native tree is very common in the Rockies for example but is fairly scarce here in Ireland. Its Latin name is Populus Tremula from the way in which its leaves vibrate rapidly in the slightest breeze.

Look out for displays of crustose lichens on the rocks around the Gap. The crustose term refers to the way in which they are so closely attached to the rock, almost like paint. These plants are a mixture of alga and fungus. The alga can manufacture food from sunlight whereas fungus cannot. However the fungus provides a substrate for the alga and in some cases liberates essential materials from the rock that the alga can use. Each plant needs the other and lichens are a good example of this kind of co-dependence called symbiosis. Of the many different colonies covering the rock surface, look out for the one that look like a map - this species is called Rhizocarpon Geographicum.

St. Patricks Cabbage is a common plant in the Gap but is unusual elsewhere. It has small white flowers at the end of a long stalk and shiny leaves in a basal rosette. These leaves are spatula-shaped with teeth at the end. This is one of the saxifrage family, meaning rock-breaker in latin.

Bracken is an extremely abundant fern here and in the summer may reach several feet in height. Some of the scree slopes higher up have large strands of Male Fern (the name is not the sex of the plant). The leaf stalks in these ferns all rise from a common base and later in the summer the backs of the leaves will be crowded with the tiny cases from which millions of spores are released.

The Choughs that live in the area may entertain you with displays of acrobatics. These rare crows have curved red bills and red legs. They are closely related to the Alpine Chough (often seen around huts in the Alps) which has red legs but a yellow bill. It is a bird of sea cliffs but the Gap is one of the very few places where it breeds inland. Choughs are now nearly extinct in England and rare in Wales but they are still reasonably common on the west coast of Ireland.

There are quite a few Ravens around the Gap and together with the Grey Crow and the Fox are the largest scavengers in the area. The location of a sheep carcass is often indicated by the movement of these crows and they become particularly active in the Spring when the sheep are lambing.

While belaying keep an eye on the Black Lake, especially the upper end, for Otters. The river running through the Gap has a number of areas of good Otter habitat and Otters have been seen from the crags in the past.

In wet weather the rocks around the Gap display many Kerry Slugs feeding on the aforementioned lichens. This species has light brown spots on a dark brown body and will curl up in a ball when disturbed (it is the only slug that will do this). The Kerry Slug has a "Lusitanian" distribution in Europe. This means that it occurs along the western shoreline of Europe but not in the interior, even though it is not a coastal dwelling species. This is in contrast to the usual plant and animal species distribution in Europe where more species occur towards the centre and less towards the margins. Other species occurring in the Killarney area such as the Irish Spurge and the Arbutus also have a Lusitanian distribution.

Note : If cleaning new routes, it is advisable to know the plants that occur on the cliffs (there aren't that many of them) and to avoid damaging any that are unusual or protected. Do not approach or otherwise disturb cliff-dwelling birds at any time of the year but be especially careful from April to July when the birds are nesting.

==Grading==
The usual adjectival and numerical (technical) grading systems have been used as follows :
M Moderate
D Difficult
VD Very Difficult
MS Mild Severe
S Severe 3c,4a.
HS Hard Severe 4a,4b
VS Very Severe 4b,4c,5a
HVS Hard Very Severe 4c,5a,5b.
E1 Extremely Severe 5a,5b,5c
E2 5b,5c,6a
E3 etc. 5c,6a,6b etc

It should be noted that many of the routes have not had second ascents, these have a '1' after the route name. The accepted star grading system is used with three stars being reserved for the routes of highest quality. Again the star grading system is suggestive rather than definitive and newer routes in particular may be deserving of more or fewer stars than indicated. An absence of stars does not mean that a route is not worth doing.

Where there was some dispute over the grade, two grades were given e.g. HVS/E1 5b/5c. This means that route is most likely HVS 5b but possibly E1 5c. Also if there was some doubt over the technical grade an alternative grade is put in brackets. e.g. E2 5c(6a).

==Mountain Rescue==
In the event of an accident, where assistance is required, dial 112 and ask for Mountain Rescue. The nearest telephone is at Kate Kearneys Cottage. Give grid references and the name of the crag if possible.

==Protection==
Due to the horizontal nature of many of the crack lines, small camming devices, especially those with flexible stems prove very useful in the Gap. On many of the routes Flexible Friends are the main source of protection.

==Using the Guide==
The various crags are described starting on the east (left) side of the valley and working south up the Gap and then the routes on the western side of the valley are described in the same manner. Climbs on each face are described from left to right. Climbs thats are not numbered on the topos are newly added.

==Céim - East Side of the Gap==
About a mile up the road from Kates, there is a path to the left which leads to the river Loe (this is the river flowing out of the Black Lake). Cross the stepping stones and follow the path up to the old house. Go straight past the house and down into a small valley where the crag is situated (100 metres from the house).
Céim is very sheltered from the wind and the rain and due to the fact that it is overhanging in places some routes remain dry on wet days.
[[File:Ceim.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''GUINEVERE, THE WATERY TART''' 15m HVS 5b
B. Hall, D. Dowling March 2012
The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

'''1:CUFF'S CRAP''' 15m VS 4c
M Shea, P. Cuff . Summer 1985
Start under the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the steps up to the corner (above the tree), finishing up the corner.

'''2:THE BLACK STUFF''' 15m HVS 5b
R. Stack, I. Counihan. 21/10/90
The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

'''3:MOONDANCE''' * 15m VS 4c
D. Tagney, A. Forde. 12/10/94
Start 1m right of The Black Stuff under a small white-stained overhang. Climb straight to the ledge, then up and step onto a small ledge. Move up and right to the top.
VARIATION: Instead of moving right continue up the left-facing corner (VS 4c).

'''4:SEAN NÓS''' * 15m HVS 5a
M Shea, C. Corrigan. Summer '90
Start under a square block (about 3m up). Climb over this and continue straight up to the ledge. Finish as for Miss Piggy.

'''5:THE GREAT WAR''' * 15m HVS/E1 5a
R. Stack, G.Stack. 11/11/90
Start 1m left of the arete left of Miss Piggy. Climb to the overhang (good wire around corner on right) and straight to the top.

'''6:MISS PIGGY''' 17m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack July '89 and re-climbed August '91 after removal of large blocks
Climb the obvious corner (left of Titanic) to the ledge, then traverse left for 1.5m and climb the obvious crack to the top.

'''ARACHNOPHOBIA''' 12m HVS 5b
B. McSweeney, E. Kennedy, O. O’Regan 3/8/03
Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

'''7:THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN''' 12m HVS 5a/E1 5b D. O’Toole 27/10/01
Boulder start off the horizontal crack. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.

'''8:TITANIC''' ** 12m VS 4b
M Shea, P. Cuff. Summer 1985
Short but steep. Climb the hand crack on the right hand side of the crag.

'''9:THE PRODIGAL SON''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 15/9/91.
Climb the thin line 2-3m to the right of Titanic.
==Bothán - East Side of the Gap==
This buttress is situated directly above Black Stream Bridge on the east side of the valley. Walk 100m past the bridge to two small quarried areas on the left hand side of the road, from here head straight up to the crag. It can be quite exposed to wind, which is good if the midges are out, but bad if it‟s cold. The crag dries quickly after rain and seepage isn‟t a problem on most routes. West facing; a good spot for evening sunshine.
[[File:Bothan.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''''LEFT BUTTRESS'''''

'''APRIL SUNSHINE''' 15m M S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start about 3m left of "The Ego Has Landed", climbing the left corner of the lower face, proceed up the middle of the second section, getting behind the holly tree. Good holds, but poor protection.

'''1:THE EGO HAS LANDED''' 15m VS 4c
A.Forde, I.Counihan. 15/9/90
Arete above a large ledge on the extreme left of the buttress. Protection is sparse.

'''2:FIRST COME FIRST SERVED''' * 15m VS 4b
T. Long, D. Mulcahy. 6/4/95
Climb the line between The Ego Has Landed and Agent Orange. Climb directly up to the crackline and continue straight up to the top.

'''3:AGENT ORANGE''' 15m HS 4b
I.Counihan, A.Forde. 15/9/90
Large crack and corner on the left hand side of the buttress.

'''FULCRUM''' 20m HVS 5a
R. Stack, C. Cudden, A. Forde 15/5/93
This route is between 3 and 4. Climb up to a ledge (overhanging) and then up the left side of the face above to another ledge. Continue up existing over a small overhang at the top.

'''4:PRIVATE INVESTIGATIONS''' * 20m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Shea. August '86
Climb up left of the overhang to gain a ledge. From the ledge step right and climb up to another ledge. Veer left at the blank face and climb over a small overhang near the top.

'''5:LJUBLJANA''' ** 20m E1 5c
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Start to the right of Private Investigations, climb the face onto the ledge, climb over the obvious protruding spike and then over the overhang and continue straight to the top.

'''6:DISCO LEGS''' ** 20m E3 5c
P. Hoy 4/9/99 (climbed past crux previously but was unclaimed)
Between B5 and B6, straight to roof, pocket, sidepull (not the loose one on the left), direct to top past sloping breaks. Finish up the crack of Raven. Pumpy but protection is good.

'''7:RAVEN''' ** 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, K.Tarrant. 1985
This climb is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb through the obvious breech in the overhang to a small quartz vein, traverse left and ascend the crack. Protection is poor at the start. A variation is to traverse half way across and climb over the small overhang (5a).

'''8:BUGLER''' 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, A.Devlin. 1985
Start as for Raven but continue straight to the top (over a holly bush). Protection is poor at the start.

'''9:FIACH DUBH''' 15m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D.Dineen. 02/05/10.
Start as for Raven. Standing on the first ledge arrange gear in the crack, then step out right onto the face gaining good holds. Go straight to the top from here, keeping left of a small bush and going past a short slab and through the overhang at 3/4 height. Beware of loose rock.

'''10:RESPECT''' 15m HVS 5a
B. O’Dwyer, E. Lawless 21/4/00
Start just to the right of the arete to the right of Bugler. A poorly protected dynamic move over the bulge (long reach helps). Tend leftwards along the obvious line to the top.

'''11:ADRIAN'S ROUTE''' 12m VS 4c
A. Devlin (Solo). 1985
This route is on the far right of the buttress 3-4m around the corner from Bugler. Climb the faint overhanging corner, move right and climb straight to the top. The most difficult moves are at the start where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BACK OR BRAIN''' 6m VS 4b
I. Counihan, R. Stack. 14/4/91
Start 2-3m to the right of Adrian's Route. Start on a small ledge right of a large holly tree. Climb the obvious line veering slightly right towards the top.

'''BERRY FUNNY''' 6m VDiff
S. Bickerdyke, F. Villain. 14/11/2011
Start right of Back Or Brain. Climb diagonal crack to the right exiting left of holly tree. Not first ascent, first recorded.

'''''RIGHT BUTTRESS'''''

'''SETANTA''' 8m S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start on the first flat rock at the base on the chimney, left of "Akimbo". Climb the right hand wall of the chimney, using the good hand and footholds, climbing slightly left to the highest point of the face. Protection is poor.

'''13:AKIMBO''' * 7m HS 4b/c
J. Behal, C. Cudden 13/9/95
Climb the arete left of The Hobbit. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:THE HOBBIT''' 6m HS 4b
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Climb the slightly overhanging crack left of the obvious corner (which contains a tree.)

'''15:BALDY''' 10m VS 4c
M Shea, B.Galvin Summer '90
Climb the edge of the face to the left of Spider. Protection is poor.

'''16:SPIDER''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty. 1985
Climb up the blank face on the left side of the buttress. This climb weaves back and forth. Protection is poor.

'''16A:CRAZY FROG''' 9m HVS 4c
J Healy, S. Clinton. 2009
Start just left of the small holly tree midway along the base of the climbs. Climb up just left of the tree on sidepulls and undercuts. Crux. Continue directly up to the top. Protection is poor.

'''17:P.O.S.''' 8m V.Diff
R. Stack, P. Cudden. Jan '89
(pile of shite?) Start about 5m to the right of Spider and climb the obvious line to the top.

=='''The Chimneys'''==
The area known as The Chimneys is situated on the eastern side of the Gap of Dunloe, above Bothán crag. They are broken down into three main outcrops. The approach is as for Bothán, but continue in a north easterly direction for approx. 10 minutes and you will arrive at the crags. The approach after leaving Bothán may be difficult as the heather in high….but I think its worth the effort. There seems to be very little seepage there.

'''HIGHWAY TO HEAVEN''' VS 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 29/04/2014
Start on the left of the smaller crag at the left of the chimneys. Climb the obvious crack and stay left of the tree root. Climb straight up till you arrive at the ledge (avoid the temptation to move right on the High Hopes), instead, climb the overhanging face topping out a little higher than High Hopes.

'''HIGH HOPES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
This climb is on the very left of the outcrops, at the base of the large triangular rock. Start in the very obvious corner, climbing up to the overhang, move left, climb past the bush, moving slightly right before climbing to the top of the crag.

'''PEARLY GATES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan S
Start as for High Hopes, but instead of going left at the overhang, climb straight up the face, topping out at the top out for High Hopes

'''CRONINS YARD''' VDIFF 16m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The start for this is about 50m to the right, and slightly uphill from High Hopes, Start at the left hand corner of the small crag, and climb the corner to the heathery covering. The decent is off to the left of the top out and down the small gully

'''THE STEPS''' VDIFF 14m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The Steps is on the left corner of the next major crag after Cronins Yard, Climb the obvious steps, finishing on the first major heathery ledge you reach. Avoid the temptation to climb further, as it makes your decent to your left very tricky

'''MAIDEN VOYAGE''' MS 15m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
Start about 4m to the right of The Steps, climb the rock which has a concave shape, climbing straight up the flat face and topping out at the obvious crack in the rock at the top of the climb.

'''VERTICAL LIMIT''' VS 46m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 12/06/2014
On the crag on the southern end of the Chimneys, Start at the base of the obvious crack, climb straight up, over the small overhang, onto the ledge, from here climb straight up the blocky climb to highest point in the crag. Protection is good. Decent from here is off to the right of the crag as you face it.
==Carraig Ceannann==
This is the most northerly of the cliffs on the western side of the valley. About 1 Km up the Gap turn right and walk up the Cora Road (at the "Going Climbing" sign). Follow this zig zag road up to the nearest point to an obvious white buttress this is lower Carraig Ceannann. A few metres up and around the corner is an obvious off-width crack, this is the line of Moloise. Further left you will come to upper Carraig Ceannann.
[[File:Carraig_ceannain_upper.png|alt=|center|700x700px]]
'''1:ERICA''' 10m V.Diff
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Start 2m right of the mossy gully on the extreme left hand end of Carraig Ceannann, keeping a small clump of heather on your right hand side. Climb up to a right tending diagonal line, continue along this and exit on an easy right tending ramp at the top.

'''2:EASY ROUTE''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty (Solo) August '86
This climb is to the right of Erica. Climb the blank face, following no definite line. Protection is poor.

'''3:TAR WARS''' * 20m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
The furthest left crack through the small roof left of Cuchulainn.
1. 15m Climb the crack through the roof (crux) and belay on the grass ledge.
2. 5m Climb the wall behind and slightly right of the first pitch to finish left of the large block on top.

'''4:DIVING FOR PEARLS''' ** 25m E2 5c,5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 15/9/90
1. 15m Start at a narrow chimney 2m right of Tar Wars. Climb this past an upside down slot to another slot. Move up and left to gain the upper wall. Belay on the large ledge above.
2. 10m From the ledge gain a small corner above a rose bush, climb the upper wall on good holds to the left hand side of a large block on top.

'''CHRISTMAS JUMPER''' 30m E2 5b/c
R. Creagh, J. Eldred. 23/11/14 (Toproped beforehand; it was wet and looked harder!)
A bit eliminate but worth a go if you've done the other routes here. Climb Cuchulainn to the holly tree. Move left and climb the wall left of the corner, passing through the overhangs using a few holds common with Cuchulainn but keeping out of the corner proper.

'''5:CUCHULAINN''' ** 30m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty, A. Forde. July '84
This route follows the obvious line to the left of the main overhang. Traverse in from the left to the base of the line. Climb straight up the obvious line to an awkward overhanging niche. Continue to the large ledge (small holly tree in crack) climb straight up the overhanging corner (difficult to protect) and on to the top on good holds.

'''CUCHULAINN-VARIATION''' 28m E1 5b
C.Ryan, T.Mee 11/1/2014
Follow Cuchulainn to the holly bush. From here traverse right up the flat wall and continue up up to the top.

'''6:FERDIA''' ** 26m HVS 5a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. July '84
From the start of Cuchulainn climb up and right into a corner. Climb this to the overhang before breaking out right to a large ledge. Continue up the narrow chimney to the roof before turning awkwardly right again, and up into the final niche. Escape out left and up to the top.

'''7:FERDIA DIRECT''' 40m E2 5c
M Shea, B. Forde. September '89
Instead of traversing from Cuchulainn to the start of Ferdia, start at the lowest point of the line. Climb the line to a small overhang (crux), Move slightly left to surmount this and then onto the original route.

'''8:VALHALLA''' 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 24/4/90
The line immediately right of Ferdia.
1. Start at the crack over the cave, climb directly to the obvious corner (with the bush) to the right. Turn the overhang here by moving out right, continue up and then left to regain the crack, belaying on the obvious ledge.
2. Climb the roof via the crack on the right hand side to complete the route.

'''9:VALHALLA MY ARSE''' ** 30m E1 5c
C. Moriarty, A. Young. June '90
Start as for Valhalla but continue straight up through the overhang, up along the corner and finally up through the top overhang.
add comment

'''9a Osiris *'''
'' VS 4c ''Gerard Laide, 1/8/2015 15M. Hs 4b start 4M to the right of Valhalla below a ledge
climb the crack or layback the large flake
climb the slab keep right at the bulge up to the bolder belay here
20M. 4c climb the obvious crack breaking out right onto the face on good holds to a small ledge to right [good cam] 0.4 silver. continue up the arete and
Abseil off chain
[[File:Carraig_Ceanann_lower.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
'''10:GALLARUS ORIFICE''' 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 6/4/90
Climb the left hand side of the back of the alcove 5m to the left of Moloise. Above the holly tree move up and right under a small roof. Traverse up and right to a small ledge. Belay here on a tree further back and to the right. Protection is poor initially.

'''11:MOLOISE''' * 25m HVS 5a/5b
A. Forde (Solo). April '86
Climb the obvious off-width right-tending crack line on the right hand side of the buttress. The most difficult moves are at the start, where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BASH ON REGARDLESS''' *** 25m E1/2 5b/5c
A. Forde, A. Devlin. November '85
This climb is in the corner 5m right of Moloise, Climb the slight corner to the large block. Finish up the face by delicate moves. Protection is poor at the start. Holly tree belay. Abseil or walk off above and to the right.

'''13:BLACK FRIDAY''' *** 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Protection is poor initially which accounts for the high grade. Start a few metres right of Bash on Regardless. Climb up to a horizontal quartz vein (at 5m), traverse right to a horizontal finger crack and climb up to a small ledge at half height. Continue up and left to a large flake. Surmount this and move up to a large ledge, move further right to belay on a holly tree (same belay as for April Showers).

'''15:APRIL SHOWERS DIRECT''' * 20m E1 5b
R. Stack, M Shea. 23/6/90
Start in the corner to the left of April Showers, climb the corner to the overhang, move up and right and continue up April Showers. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:APRIL SHOWERS''' 20m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Left tending line on the extreme right of Carraig Ceannann. Climb the ramp to gain an obvious diagonal crack (poor protection) and then a vertical crack up to the holly tree, hanging belay. Abseil here.

==D Buttress==
This is a small buttress above and to the left of Carraig Ceannann.

'''THE THIEF''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 21/6/92
This climb is left and around the corner from Sadbhóg (facing east). Climb up just left of the right hand edge. Climb up left of some gorse and onto a large ledge, mantle shelf onto a slab and then up a very short corner to the top.

'''SADBHÓG''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Crack line left of Wet Wet Wet. Climb a wide crack (that narrows towards the top) to a triangular block and horizontal crack. Step left and follow a faint crack to the base of a large block. Traverse right under this block and finish up its right hand side.

'''WET WET WET''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
Climb the obvious corner and crack line on the right hand end of the buttress.

==Brennans Leap==
This crag is situated on the road side beside the Black Lake (First Lake).

Note:
It is recommended that people don't climb on this crag during the day (between 9 am and 6pm), as climbing activities (rattling of gear and bright colours etc.) can startle the horses carrying people on the road.
[[File:Brenna's_Leap.jpg|alt=|center|700x700px]]
'''Left Buttress'''

'''1:NANUK''' 8m VS 4b
Unknown
Thin line on the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a ledge at half height and continue straight up to the top (right of some gorse).

'''2:MONKEYS UNCLE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Van Soest. 1980
Climb onto a small ledge above a black water streak on the left hand side of Brennan's Leap. Climb more left, then rightwards and up onto a protruding block, then to the top.

'''MONKEYS UNCLE DIRECT''' 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start right of Monkeys Uncle. Climb the route directly up to the top. Initial moves off the ground are hard (5b).

'''O DONOGHUE'S DISAPPOINTMENT''' 10m VS
Start 1m right of Monkey's Uncle Direct". Climb straight up and finish over the overhang. Protection is very very poor.
Ciarán Campbell, Martin J. O Donoghue, March 2014

'''3:GRANUAILE''' * 10m E1 5b
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 17/9/91
Climb a straight line starting 2m to the left of Cronins Crack. Climb up to the large triangular incut and out over the small overhang (crux) and then continue on better holds to the top. Protection is poor above the crux.

'''4:CRONINS CRACK''' ** 10m HS 4b
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
One of the first routes in the gap and also one of the most popular. Climb the obvious line in the centre of the crag. Protection is adequate.

'''5:FAT BOYS DON'T FALL''' 10m E1 5c
M Shea, Rob. Stack 1990
Climb the left tending line between Cronins Crack and Daffodils. This route is protected from Daffodils.

'''6:DAFFODILS''' * 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 1984
Start 3m to the right of Cronins Crack, Climb the obvious prominent left tending crack line.

'''7:RIGHT HAND PARALLEL''' 10m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty. 1983
Start as for Evening Falls, but climb the crack line to the left of it.

'''8:UNKNOWN''' 10m E1 6a
Start left of a block sticking out of the ground and climb straight up through an overlap using
a sloping ledge. Finish up another rout

'''9:RUSH HOUR''' * 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, C. Moriarty. 9/7/90
Climb over a small overhang (left of large overhang) to gain a ledge, move out right onto the face above the overhang and climb to the top.

'''10:EVENING FALLS''' 10m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Sweeney. 1983
Climb the left tending (steep) ramp under the overhang to the ledge, climb straight up the corner to the top.

'''11:DEADLINE''' (1) * 10m E2/3 6a
R. Stack, D. Mulcahy, T. Long. 4/5/95
Climb the overhang on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb to the slot in the overhang and then over the overhang. Continue more easily to the top. Protection is poor at the start.

'''12:MOVIES''' * 10m HVS 4c
C. Moriarty (Solo). 1983
Climb the obvious corner to the right of the main overhang. Protection is poor.

'''Right Buttress'''

'''YANKEE''' 7m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Summer '90
This line is on the left of the buttress. Climb up via a ledge system, keeping a holly tree on your left.

'''WET VISITATIONS''' 7m HS 4b
J. Behal, N. O’Leary 23/6/97
Start 2-3m left of Voodoo. Climb the rightwards tending ramp and then up the obvious crack.

'''SOME KIND OF VOODOO''' 7m VS 4c
P. Costelloe, R. Stack. 17/9/91
This climb is situated in the centre of this buttress. Start under a small overhang (at 3m). Climb over the overhang (up and right) to a right tending ramp. Continue up the ramp to the top.

'''DARBY O'GILL''' (1) 9m HVS 5a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start 2m to the left of Sweet Surrender. Climb up under the overhang, move slightly right and over the overhang to gain a small ledge on the left hand side of the arete. Continue on the left of the arete to the top.

'''SWEET SURRENDER''' * 9m E1 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 19/9/94
Climb the obvious thin line on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb over the bulge to the large hand crack and continue up and right to the top.

'''Small crag at first lake, opposite Brennan’s Leap'''

'''O'DONOGHUE'S DIVE''' 5c
A.O’Donoghue solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start at far right of main face on underwater ledge. Climb to horizontal cracks and follow to obvious indentation, then to top. Jump at any time.

'''MORDANT'S MADNESS''' 5a
A. Mordant solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start right of O’Donoghue’s Dive but left of grass patches. Climb overhang.

==Cub Crag.==
This is the most right hand of the lower crags 300m distance above and slightly to the left of Brennans Leap.
[[File:Cub_Crag.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]
'''1:VENTURE SLAB''' 10m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Jan '89
Start 2-3m to the left of Cub Crack. Climb up 3m to the sloping ledge, traverse 1-2m to the right and continue up to the top.

'''2:CUB CRACK''' 7m V.Diff
R. Stack, Rob. Stack, Jan '89.
Climb the obvious crack line in the middle of the crag

'''3:BATS''' * 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. April '90
Climb the obvious right hand overhanging crack.

'''4:FAR AWAY FRIENDS''' 10m E5 6b Damien O'Sullivan

The route takes the wall between the existing routes of Bats and Gymnasty. The start avoids the crack of gymnasty. Protection can be placed in the first horizontal break which is visible from the ground.

Top-roped first, then climbed with preplaced gear.

'''5:GYMNASTY''' (1) 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Climb the arete right of Bats. Start below a steep crack. Climb this and step right and up onto a ledge then up and left to finish.
add comment
==G Buttress==
This is a small north facing crag, at the top of the gully just left of Cub Crag.

'''UNITED AGAIN''' (1) 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
The route is on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious line to the ledge and then up a finger crack to the top.

'''DOWNHEAVEL''' (1) 10m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 4/5/95
Climb up the centre of the face veering slightly right towards the top, finishing on a small ledge.
==H Buttress==
This is a long low wall to the left of Cub Crag.
[[File:H_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]

'''1:MANDELA''' 18m HS 4a
R. Stack, Rob. Stack. 3/7/90
This climb is situated on a small buttress, with a large block on top (right of Rescue Rock). Climb up left of a large crack and then straight up to the top.

'''2:TOM''' 8m Severe
R. Stack, P. Cudden. July '89
This climb is on the left hand side of the wall. Climb the thin crack line. Protection is sparce at the very top but the climbing is easy.

'''3:SUNKEN BUSINESS''' 9m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb straight up the face between Tom and Resonate.

'''4:RESONATE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
Crack line 3m to the right of Tom. Climb to a square cut recess and over a bulge to a ledge.

'''5:JERRY''' 13m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack. July '89
This climb is to the right of Resonate. Climb to the right of a vegetated line. Climb about 10m to gain a ledge, then go over a small overhang to the top. Protection is poor.

'''6:THE BOULD DOG AND ME''' * 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 2/5/90
Climb the black wall 4m to the right of Jerry. Climb about 10m to a large ledge, then slightly right and over an obvious overhang to the top (as for Jerry).

Note:
The next two routes are on a small recessed wall just to the right of The Bould Dog and Me.

'''7:GAMES WITHOUT FRONTIERS''' 10m HS 4b
R.Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
Climb up the middle of the face going over a small overhang at half height.

'''8:THREE IN A BED''' 10m Severe
M. Shea, T. Murphy. Summer '90
Climb the right hand side of the face exiting through a break in the heather at the top.

==Rescue Rock==
There are three small buttresses on the extreme left of the lower crags. The first three routes are on the left hand buttress, and the rest are on the right buttress.
[[File:Rescue_Rock.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]
'''Left Buttress'''

'''0: NOTHING BETTER TO DO''' 12m VS4c
J Healy, L Calnan. Spring 2012
Left of the Free at Last buttress there is an obvious arete just left of a small tree at 3m. At the base of the arete is a broken crack. Climb the crack to a comfortable ledge. Continue up just left of the arete to gain a vegetated ledge - crux. Climb the slab above to another ledge and a belay on the wall behind. Descend by scrambling down the gully on the R of the climb.

'''1:SKYLINE''' 10m Severe
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
Climb the left hand side of the face.

'''2:FREE AT LAST''' * 10m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb the centre of the face (left of Umbongo). Protection is poor.

'''3:UMBONGO''' * 10m Severe
Unknown
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the crag.

'''4:THE CRAZY HORSEMAN''' 9m E5?
??????
Up the middle of the buttress. Escaping right is possible before the overhang at around E1.

'''5:FLIER AND HATTER''' 12m HS 4b
A. Forde solo Jan 2005
Bridge up the chimney left of Siren to gain an indistinct arete on the left. Follow this to top.
Alternatively, start up Rescue Rock and after 5m make a step across the void onto the middle buttress (Severe).

'''6:SIREN''' 10m HS 4b
R. Stack, C. Cudden. 1/4/95
This route is on the left hand side of the right buttress. Climb to a shallow groove near the top, climb through this using a quartz hold on the right.

'''WILLIE ROCKS ROUTE''' 10m E3 6a
W. Rock c2000
Climb the centre of the face between Umbongo and Siren exiting through a break in a small roof.

'''7:RESCUE ROCK''' * 12m Severe
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
This route is just left of middle up the face of the buttress. Climb straight up from the large ledge and veer slightly right towards the top.

'''8:QUARTZ MOVEMENT''' * 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, T. Long 4/5/95
Start just right of Rescue Rock. Climb the right hand edge of the face.
[[File:MoP_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''9:MOTHER OF PRAGUE''' *** 20m E1 5b
I. Counihan, M Barry. July '90
The obvious line to the left of Willie Wonka. Start directly below the line on top. Climb up to the base of the overhanging corner move left and climb up moving slightly right towards to the top.

'''10:WILLIE WONKA''' ** 20m E2 6a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 27/12/89
This route is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the right hand side of the face to a ledge (large block), climb up and into a right tending crack/corner (left of holly tree). Climb the overhang and continue straight up to the top.
==Small Crag directly above Rescue Rock==
[[File:Gap_crag_topo.jpg|alt=|center]]

1. '''MICRO **''' 15m E2 5c ''A. Forde, J. Hussey April 2005'' Climb overhanging arete immediately left of main corner to good hold and continue steeply to large ledge at 6m. Continue up arete on right to top.

'''2. Vodka & Redbull''' 15m VS 4b. ''J. Hussey, I Counihan, April 2005.'' Climb into the cave. Move out of cave and onto ledge on good holds. Continue up arête to top.

'''3. Young Love''' 15m HS 4a ''I Counihan, J. Hussey, April 2005.'' Climb the corner to the right of the cave.

'''4. Sing Song Bully''' 15m E1 5c ''J. Hussey, D Casey, June 2009.'' Climb large crack to ledge. From ledge climb up the face and through small roof.

==J Buttress==
This buttress is behind and to the right of the Main Face.

'''GREAT SLAVE''' (1) * 40m E1 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
1. Start 8m left of Oozum Croozum. Climb up and left under a small set of overhangs and past a square wedged block, then climb up and right (crux). Belay at the base of the next wall. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. Move up to gain a quartz vein and traverse right along the wall under a small roof. Exit past this roof and belay on a large sloping ledge.

'''OOZUM CROOZUM''' (1) 20m E2/3 5c/6a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/5/90
Start directly below the arete. Climb to the corner in the arete. Below the top, traverse right onto the right face and then up to a ledge. Climb the face above (poorly protected) to a large block to finish. Descend to the left.
add comment

'''APPARITION''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney, Aidan Forde. April `95.
Start just right of Ozum Croozum.Climb ramp to overhanging groove.Surmount this (crux) and straight up wall above keeping well right of grass ledge.Climb short steep wall with overhanging block.Exit on right side of overhang.

==The Main Face==
This is the large blank face above Black Stream bridge. It is bordered on the right by overhangs and vegetation up high and on the left by a striking arete, P'u.
[[File:Main_Face.jpg|alt=|center|650x650px]]

'''1:CARRAIGS''' (1) 40m E1 5c
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
1. 15m Start immediately left of P'u, climb the face left of a tree to gain a good hand crack, above this ascend a short corner to a ledge, belay here.
2. 25m At the left end of the ledge climb the face to a break in the roof, continue to the top of the face above.

'''2:FOUR YELLOW''' 40m E2 5c
A. Forde, C. Cudden 17/8/97
1.As for Carraigs
2.Traverse left from belay tree for 5m to stand on a very narrow ledge. Climb up to a break with large boulders. Move left and climb overhang. Continue straight over breaks in middle of face to top.

'''3:AS GOOD AS IT GETS''' E3 5c ***
Denis Tangney.June`05
Start 3m up and left of PÙ on a flat stone.Climb steeply up for 8m (bold) to gain protection.Veer slightly left in direction of first bolt.Clip this and climb crack (crux) up to second bolt.Mantle up under overhang.Climb over hang on right side of bolt to finish.

'''4:P'U''' ** 30m E2 5b
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
The large arete left of a tree filled gully. Start on the left face, move up and right to gain a large ledge at half height, continue onto the right wall but move immediately onto the arete and continue on the arete to a belay ledge. Protection is not good. Abseil off.
Second Pitch: Traverse left approx. 4m from the belay tree. Climb directly up on poor quality rock and past a very large hanging block on the right. Continue up the arete and wall on the left to the top. Belay off large block on top.
A. Forde, D. Tangney. August 2005.

'''5:RUFUS IS A TIT MAN''' * 50m E2 5b/6a/5a
A. Forde [1,2], R. Stack[3]. 14/4/95
1. 10m Start 3m right of the P'u arete, climb the shallow scoop to a sloping ledge and then climb a short corner to a large ledge. Poor protection.
2. 20m Climb the crack line on the left side of the ledge to a holly tree.
3. 20m Start just left of the holly tree and climb over a small overhang. Climb up over large blocks and move slightly right. Climb up and left (past a triangular incut) through the overhang to the top.

'''6:OUT OF MY REACH''' ** 45m HVS/E1 4c,5a
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
This climb is on the left hand side of the blank face to the right of the black water stain.
1. 10m Go straight up to a large ledge which contains a large tree.
2. 35m From the ledge climb up right of the black water stain (crux), poor protection. At the top of the water stain move left and climb straight up. The route follows a series of sloping ledges and up into a groove. Climb through and straight up to belay under block overhang.

'''7:THE OVERLAP''' (1) ** 45m E3 6a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 23/4/90
It takes the obvious left tending diagonal line on the right side of the main face.
1. Start 20m to the right of the start of Out of my Reach. Climb vertically to gain the bottom of the overlap, continue up and left to a block at 15m. Move left from here to a hanging belay.
2. Move up and right from the belay through the overhang via an obvious groove and then to the top on easier ground.

'''8:DEMASIADO''' ** 40m E1 5b,5a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 1/5/90
1. 25m Start under a white wall with two vertical cracks (at 10m) immediately right of The Overlap. Climb directly up to the base of the white wall and step right to a small ledge. Move up via two vertical cracks to a sloping ramp. Move right to a small ledge and then up and left to a small belay ledge, beneath the overhang.
2. 15m From the belay ledge move left and then up to a large ledge on the left. Continue up to a right tending corner. Above this move up the face to a square-cut hole and up and right to finish. Belay slightly right.

'''VARIATION TO DEMASIADO''' 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 1/5/90
Pitch 2. More left from the belay ledge and climb the right side of the upper face to the top.

'''9:LOS POTATOS''' * E2 6a,5b
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney April `95
(1) Climb shallow corner right of Demasiado(bold crux)and straight up to belay stance at 20m.
(2) Move right and up to top 20m.

'''10:VIVE LA LEGION''' * 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, D. Stuttar. 4/4/95
This route is on the white lichen-covered wall left of The Will of Zog. Start on the big block. Climb up the arete to the first small overhang. Climb the hand crack and continue up to the black roof. Move out right (crux) to gain a small ledge and traverse to a holly tree. Belay here.

'''11:THE WILL OF ZOG''' * 35m HVS 5b,5a
I. Counihan [1,3], A. Forde [2]. 12/4/90
This route takes a weak crack system to an obvious corner under a roof about 40m right of Out of My Reach and immediately right of a set of roofs.
1. 12m Start under the left hand end of a large block. Climb the off width crack to the top of the block. Climb the thin crack line to the corner under the overhang. Belay here.
2. 6m Traverse left under the overhang to gain the face and continue up to a ledge. Many parties abseil from here.
3. 17m From the right hand end of the ledge climb up and left of the chimney. Climb this for 5m and regain the right arete.

'''12:VIVALDI''' 30m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 12/4/90
The crack line immediately right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small ramp and the crackline above to a ledge. Continue on the same line above to a short corner. Climb this and step left and up to gain a ledge, (the route can finish here with an abseil from the holly tree). From the ledge climb an easy left tending crack and then a short face with a good flake. Belay on trees above. To descend, go uphill under a large chockstone and right to the descent gully.

'''13:ICY FINGERS''' 18m VS 4c
R. Stack, D. Doolan. 3/1/90
This route starts just right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small corner to the right of a small tree. Climb a crack to gain a ledge. Traverse left and climb 2m to gain another ledge. Climb straight in under an overhang and traverse out right to finish the route.

'''14:AND IT STONED ME''' 18m HVS 5a/5b
P. Costelloe, R. Morrison. 1992
Start as for Icy Fingers to gain the ledge, move slightly right and climb straight up the face, using the right tending crack near the top.

==Póirse Gully==
This is the large boulder-strewn gully that runs through the western cliffs, directly above Black Stream Bridge. A lot of the boulders in the gully are loose and care should be taken while in the gully. Approach by walking up a small stream above and left of the bridge and turning right at the top. Walk more or less straight up to the Gully.

'''DOUGLAS TURD''' (1) 7m Diff
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress between the forks of the upper Póirse gully. There is a small overhang in the centre of the buttress. Climb the left hand side of the buttress.

'''LORD DENNING''' (1) 7m V.Diff
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Climb the short corner 2m right of Douglas Turd, right of the overhang.

'''1:GET A JOB''' (1) 20m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/6/91
Start 1m left of Life In Windy Weather. Climb the buttress between Life In Windy Weather and a large crackline to the left. Enter a left facing groove at half height and finish up on easier ground, tending right. Belay near a large block.

'''2:LIFE IN WINDY WEATHER''' (1) * 25m E1 5b
A. Forde, N. Gregory. 30/4/90
Start at an alcove on the left of the north wall in the middle of Póirse Gully. Climb through the alcove and the overhang above it. Finish through the prominent corner above. Belay at the holly tree below the top. Descend left.

'''3:THE STOOP''' (1) *** 30m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 7/5/95
Start just left of Echo Beach. Climb directly up to the right hand edge of the block wedged under the overhang. Traverse left under the block, climb onto the block, then move out right onto the face above the overhang and straight up to the top. Belay on a holly tree above.

'''4:AIR TIME''' 30m E4/5 6a/b
S. Hennessey
Start as for The Stoop but head for the higher right hand roof. Arrange gear before going left
under the overhang (hard) and finish straight up the headwall above.

'''5:THE MUPPET SHOW''' E1 5b *
Start two meters right of The Stoop below a short faint crack.Climb directly up to ledge at 15m.Move right to join Echo Beach (?) and follow this route to finish. 30m.
First ascent; Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde. April `96.

'''6:PEREGRINE''' ** 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty I. Counihan. 1990
(Variation to the first pitch of Echo Beach)
Start at the back of the cave. Climb to the top of the cave facing out, then traverse out and climb up to Peregrine Ledge. Continue up one of the other routes or descend off the ledge.

'''7:ECHO BEACH''' ** 30m E2 4c,5c
A. Forde, J. Price. 1985
1. 10m Start 5m left of an obvious chimney (cave), climb diagonally up and right to gain Peregrine ledge.
2. 20m Climb the arete (crux) from the ledge, turning the overhang above on the left before finishing over two easy benches.

'''8:SUN DOGS''' (1) * 30m E1 5b,5c
R. Stack[1],A.Forde[2]. 5/5/95
1. 10m Climb the shallow steep groove just left of the obvious cave. Climb straight up to Peregrine Ledge. Belay here. Protection is poor on the first pitch.
2. 20m Start 2m right of the 2nd pitch of Echo Beach (where the overhang 2m above fades out). Climb from the ledge to a vertical crack and then to a breach in the first small overhang, move slightly left and then over the top overhang.

==Peregrine Ledge.==
Access is by climbing up Peregrine or the first pitch of Echo Beach or from the base of P'u scramble up a steep grassy gully to the ledge. Alternatively, from the large cave in the gully traverse right, over a holly tree, then walk left and up to Peregrine Ledge. The ledge is recognisable by the large blocks wedged between the face and the ledge. The following five routes are based around Peregrine ledge.
[[File:PLedge.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
'''9:THANK YOU IVAN, THANK YOU LORD''' ** 15m HVS 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Start on Peregrine Ledge. Start from the large chock stone wedged between the face and the ledge. The route takes a direct vertical line to the top from this chock stone.

'''10. SHORT BUT SWEET''' 8m HS 4b
R. Creagh (Solo). 24/03/11.
Climb the obvious shallow corner left of Red Dragon

'''11:RED DRAGON''' 20m VS 4c
R. Stack, P.Costelloe. 29/9/91
Start on the grassy ledge to the right and below Peregrine Ledge, right of the cave with the wedged blocks. Climb the right hand edge of the face to the top.

'''HUBBLE''' (1) 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress left of Kestrel Buttress. Climb up the centre of the buttress and over the block at the top.

==Kestrel Buttress==
This is a small buttress on the left of the upper gully which contains the following three climbs.
[[File:Kestrel.jpg|alt=|center|671x671px]]

'''PÚNCÁNACH''' ** 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. March '90
Climb the prominent crackline left of Kestrel. Protection is poor at the top.

'''Bundánach''' * 20m E2 5c
???
Climb between Púncánach and Kestrel directly to the chains. Excellent protection.

'''KESTREL''' * 18m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, D. Mulcahy. 1985
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the face

'''MIDGES''' (1) 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
Around the arete to the right of Kestrel climb the north facing wall to the overhang before swinging around onto the arete to share the same finish as Kestrel.

==The High Buttress==
This is the large buttress left of Póirse Gully. It contains two large ledges, the lower one having a large overhang above it. There are many fine long routes on this buttress. At the back left hand side of the first ledge there is a holly tree which acts as an abseil point. Because the overhang hinders further ascent, many of the routes finish on the first ledge. Different routes can also be combined. The first pitch of Seventh Heaven and finishing on Jamaica Plain makes a fine route.
The top ledge (Burnt Ledge) can be scrambled onto from the right hand side. From the base of the buttress traverse around and up the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the shallow steep gully, which is overgrown with trees. This is quite a tricky ascent
[[File:High_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]
'''1:L'ORANGE''' (1) ** 20m E2 5c/6a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
This route is on the extreme left of the buttress. At 15m there is a large detached block / flake below a prominent overhang. This route is on the left hand side of the large block of which the right hand side is Deoch Aimsir. Climb directly up to the left hand side of the block and then continue up the crack to the roof. Surmount this and continue more easily to a holly tree belay. Abseil here.

'''2:DEOCH AIMSIR''' (1) 25m E1/2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 17/9/90
Start right of L'orage. Climb the right hand side of the block, then traverse right under the roof to a large ledge. Move up and left from the ledge (crux) to gain the face above the overhang, continue up to a holly tree, belay here. Abseil or continue up Jamaica Plain or Seventh Heaven.

'''3:JAMAICA PLAIN''' * 70m HVS 5a,5a,4b,5a
A. Forde, M Shea. 1985
1. 30m Start 10m left of Seventh Heaven. Climb a corner system moving slightly left and then right, climb a corner to a large ledge below a prominent crack. Belay here.
2. 7m Climb the off width crack through the overhang and then move left to a large ledge with a holly tree. Belay here
3. 20m Climb the left side of the buttress to Burnt Ledge.
4. 13m Start on the left hand edge of the face, climb to an obvious corner / overhang with a large crack, climb about 1m right of the crack to the top (crux).

'''VARIATION ON 2ND PITCH OF JAMAICA PLAIN''' (1) 10m HVS/E1 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
Instead of climbing the off-width crack, climb the thin line just to the right of it. Gain the sloping ledge and traverse left to finish as for original route.

'''4:INFERNO''' (1) 35m E1 5b,4c
A. Forde [1], R. Stack [2]. 15/9/90
Face and groove between Jamaica Plain and Seventh Heaven.
1. 25m Climb straight up for about 5m, move out right, then up and left again (to round obvious hard move) and continue straight up to a large ledge.
2. 10m From the ledge move up and left over an overhang on good holds. Continue up to a holly tree . Abseil or continue up the third pitch of Jamaica Plain.

'''5:SEVENTH HEAVEN''' *** 60m E1 4c,5b
G.Sexton [1], C. Moriarty [2]. 25/8/90
At the left hand side of the buttress and left of the prominent overhang is a white thorn tree. This route takes the obvious corner above this with initial moves over large overhanging blocks.
1. 25m Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.

'''6:FIR BOLG''' * 20m E2 5c/6a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 18/9/90
Start 3m right of Seventh Heaven, close to a white thorn bush. Gain a ledge and then a large block/ledge (this ledge is shared with Seventh Heaven). From the ledge make a long reach/jump up and right to gain a large ledge on the outer face. Climb up and right on the outer face to a groove. Continue on easier ground to the large ledge. From the ledge abseil or continue up another route.

'''7:THE BIRD''' (1) * 20m VS 4c/5a A0
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 29/9/90
Climb to the large roof above a black corner (alcove). Aid climb out through the roo

'''My Left Foot''' E3 6a Start below the black corner of The Bird. Climb directly up to the smaller roofed corner 2m right of the roof crack of The Bird. Breach the overhang above on massive holds. Small cams can be arranged from a strenuous position, at the lip, before the fingery crux gains the slab. Finish directly up the wall above to the ledge. R. Browner, R. MacAllister. 16.04.11 (The leader’s foot was broken by rock-fall, below the roof, during the ascent).

'''8:THE UNFORGETTABLE FIRE''' ** 73m HVS 4c,5a,5a,4b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. February 1986
1. 20m Climb the obvious centre crack over the overhang to a large grassy ledge.
A. Forde, M Barry. 1985
2. 20m From the ledge go back to the back wall and traverse right along the obvious rock ramp. Go around the corner and slightly down to gain a shallow steep groove with awkward moves to a large block ledge. Belay here.(Large Hex).
3. 20m Traverse along a ledge over the main roof. Mid way along, climb up the wall between two parallel cracks. Climb to Burnt Ledge, emerging just right of a large boulder.
4. 13m From Burnt Ledge climb directly up the wall through the obvious weakness in the overhang.

'''9:GANGSTER OF LOVE''' (1) 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, M Shea. 8/9/90
Between The Unforgettable Fire and Scairibhín. Climb directly up to a finger crack at 15m. Ascend this and belay at the large ledge above.

'''10:SCAIRBHIN''' ** 65m E1 5b,5b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 8/9/90
At the right hand side of the crag, some 5m to the right of The Unforgettable Fire is an obvious open square cut groove, some 5/6m high. This is the start of Scairibhín.
1. 30m Climb the crack line on the left of the groove to the end of the chimney. Move right and up, to a ledge beneath an overhanging bulge with an obvious weakness (some parties belay here before the crux moves). Climb up the groove onto obvious block ledge.
2. 22m From this belay ledge climb directly up a shallow rounded groove. Continue up, emerging at the right hand corner of Burnt Ledge.
3. 13m As for final pitch of The Unforgettable Fire.

'''VARIATION TO FINAL PITCH OF SCAIRBHIN''' (1) 12m HS 4b
M Shea, A. Forde. 8/9/90
Climb the right hand side of the top buttress above Burnt Ledge. Climb up 4m and step right onto a large block, then more left onto the face to gain the central crackline. Finish up this crackline.

'''11:BIMBI LIMBO''' (1) 50m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/6/91
This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb. EDIT: HVS if you stick to arete, HS if you go right of arete.

'''12:J.C.B.''' (1) 40m VS 4c
D. Commins, M. Leen. 11/5/09
This is the gully up and to the right of Bimbi Limbo, the one with a small tree stump buried in it. Move
up and left onto the side wall and continue up, passing the overhanging block/ledge. From the ledge, stay right of the arete and continue straight up to Burnt Ledge.

==Aspen Ledge==
Access to this crag is from Burnt Ledge (top ledge on The High Buttress). From Burnt Ledge traverse south and down to a narrow ledge with a steep face above it.

'''THE GROOVE''' 22m HVS 5a
P. Sexton, G. Sexton. Aug '90
Climb the obvious crack line on the left hand side of the crag to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a short wall to the top (crux).

'''AN EVENING WITH NIMBUS''' ** 22m E1 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug '90
From the ledge start on the highest of two boulders. Climb the very centre of the wall over the overhangs.

'''THE JAGGED EDGE''' (1) ** 22m E1/2 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug \'90
Start at the very lowest point of the arete. Climb the arete to the large block ledge. Finish up the short wall to the top. Protection is poor.
==Faill Ceol==
This crag is above and to the left of The High Buttress. There is a large overhang in the centre of the crag.
[[File:Dunloe_ceol.jpg|alt=|center]]
 
[[File:FC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''RELICS''' (1) 10m HS 4b
Rob. Stack, R+G Stack. 14/7/90
Start 20m from the end of the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious crack to the large ledge. Belay here on an oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''MOMENTARY LAPSE OF REASON''' (1) 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, Rob + G. Stack. 10/9/90
Start 1.5m to the right of Relics. Climb straight up (right of large shallow scoop) and move slightly left near the top. Belay here on the oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''GASH''' 35m VS 4b
R. Stack, J. Forde. 13/7/90
Climb the black steps left of the main overhang (left of ivy), traverse right and up onto a large ledge. From here climb 10m to a large oak tree. Abseil or climb a small chimney on the right to the top.

'''PREACHÁIN''' ** 45m E2 5b,5c,5c
A. Forde, P. Falvey. 21/4/90
1. 25m Start under the left hand end of the main roof. Climb the vertical line towards the left hand end of the roof. 5m from the roof veer left and then traverse to belay on a large block. Protection is poor.
2. 10m Move left and out from the belay to gain a ledge on the outer face. Climb up on easier ground and belay.
3. 10m Traverse right from the belay under a small overhang. Gain a crack above the left centre of the overhang and climb above it. Finish easily through a shallow chimney above.

'''VARIATION TO 1ST PITCH OF PREACHÁIN''' (1) 25m HVS 5a
A. Forde, B. Forde. July '94
Start as for Preachain. Climb up 5m. Take a faint line heading diagonally left, then head straight up to the belay ledge. Protection is poor.

'''THE SIGN''' *** 65m E2 5b,A2,5c Or free in one pitch at E5 6a.
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 5/8/90
1. 25m As for the first pitch of Preacháin
2. 10m From the ledge climb free for a few moves and aid traverse out right and along the overlap line to a belay at the lip of the roof. There are pegs in place but some of these were rusty looking in 1994.
3. 30m From the ledge climb the wall directly. A vertical crack tells the way through the overhang to the top.

'''CRANES BILL''' 20m HS 4b
A. Forde, R. Stack 19/5/95
Start 3m left of Meltdown. Climb an indistinct line to the left side of the triangular roof (Meltdown goes to the right side). Back climb the route or continue up Meltdown.

'''MELTDOWN''' *** 60m HVS 4c,5b
A. Forde, A. Devlin. April '86
1. 35m Climb the obvious corner on the right of the face, under the main roof. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right and up to a small ledge, then climb up and right to a larger ledge with a small holly tree. Belay here.
2. 25m Climb the obvious line to the break in the overhang, climb this and continue straight up to the top.
Lots of Friends are required for this climb.

'''KUDOS''' *** 50m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Sheahan 13/7/96
1. Start as for Meltdown. After 3m move right to a large ledge. Traverse right along the top of the ramp to a vertical fist crack. Climb this and the corner above to under the overhang. Move left and up to a ledge and then right to under the upper overhang (awkward). Move up and left to the meltdown belay ledge (small to medium cams).
2. From the belay move right and up. Climb the middle of the wide black water streak following ledges and thin cracks and passing a small wedged block immediately to the left. After the wedged block gain the crack system on the right and follow this to under the overhang that crosses the whole face. Step right and the up and left to a good ledge. Follow a curving ramp on the right to a protruding block on the skyline. Belay at this block or further back at the top.

'''BOSCH''' 50m E1 5b, 4c
A. Forde, R. Stack 4/10/97
1. Start 5 m right of a holly tree which is close to an arete approx. 3m right of the Meltdown corner. Climb a slightly left-trending crack line to approx. 8m. Step up and right to a corner/crack system which trends slightly right. Belay on a large ledge near some trees.
2. Climb an obvious corner, then a face avoiding an overhang on the left. From a ledge follow a faint crack line trending right to the top

'''SURF 350''' 25m VS 4c
A. Forde, I.Counihan. 29/4/90
Obvious right facing corner on the far right hand side of the wall. Climb the corner to the off width crack, continue up and left to finish at a break in the top of the crag.

'''OH MERCY''' (1) 25m E1 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 14/7/90
Start 1m right of Surf 350, climb the obvious line to a very small ledge with a small overhang 1m above, climb over the overhang and move slightly left and continue straight to the top.

==Ash Valley==
This large crag is situated directly behind Cushvally Lake. About 300m past the Colleen Bawn house there are some old ruins. Just before the ruins, on the right side of the road, a path leads down to a small foot bridge on the north side of the lake. Walk to the lake and then to the crag.

'''THE ROOSTER''' (1) 30m HS 4b
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
This route is on the left hand side of the buttress. Start in the obvious groove, climb to the ledge and proceed left (crux) and up.

'''TIME BANDITS''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde.
(1)Start at shallow corner 2m left of “Coladh Samh”. Climb corner and move slightly right to small ledge.Move left and climb wall with square cut hole(crux) and continue up to holly tree belay. 25m
(2)Climb slightly left to within one meter of small overhang.Traverse right to good holds and straight up to wedged block.Climb this on left side(crux) to a good belay ledge. 25m.

'''COLADH SÁMH''' (1) ** 50m E1 5b?,5b,A1
C. Moriarty, D. Murphy. 6/5/90
1. 20m Start at the left hand end of the arch, climb the corner and continue straight to the ledge (ash tree).
2. Climb straight up a thin crack, one aid point (small wire) to some green shaded rock above. Move slightly right and up to obvious overhanging corner left of the main overhang - hanging belay.
3. Climb the overhang (one aid point) and straight to the top.

'''A SPECTACLE FOR SWANS''' 58m E2 5c
C. Moriarty, M McGillycuddy. August '86
1. 50m Under the highest point of the crag is a curved roof (arch), about 4m off the ground. This route climbs into the corner some 6 to 7m to the right of this. Climb on good holds into the obvious corner and beyond to the small right angled roof (25m). Climb through this and up over a ledge system, to a belay stance under the final overhang, underneath an obvious 'v' in the sky line. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. 8m From the stance climb through the 'v'.

'''RIVER RUN''' E2 5c **
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney. April `98.
Start 25m right of “ Spectacle for Swans”.Climb black wall to obvious narrow chimney.Climb this (crux) straight up to holly tree belay.Abseil from tree. 25m.

==Auger Lake Crag==
There has been more recent
development around the crags behind Auger Lake. Not much
information is available on these crags yet apart from a few pictures floating around in
cyberspace on climbing.ie. The grid reference is 874857.
Go explore
==Overhang Crag==
A small, steep crag west of the Turnpike Rocks.
Directions Park 100m before or after the Turnpike Rocks. The crag is visible across the valley, about
250m away. GR: 874855.

Conditions/Aspect
One face faces south, the other east. No seepage.

Descent
Walk back and left (as you face
the crag) for a few hundred metres before a safe descent can
be made down to the level of the crag
[[File:Overhang_Crag.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]

'''1.MINANS CALL''' 8m HVS 5b
D. Duggan, R. Creagh. 16/04/11.
Climb the obvious crack on the south face of the buttress. Short but steep.

'''2.AIRY FAERIE''' 8m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D. Duggan. 16/04/11.
Start as for Minans Call.Get gear in the horizontal break and traverse right to a stance on the arete. Climb this to the top

==Jigsaw Wall==
A more recently developed crag with some of the hardest routes in the Gap. Most of the
routes are short but quite steep and take aesthetic lines on excellent rock.

Directions
Park on the left just after the turnpike rocks. The crag is mostly hidden from view at the road
and lies up on the right (west) side of the valley.
It is reached by crossing the river and
walking up and left (less than 10 minutes). GR: 873853.

Conditions/Aspect
The crag seeps a lot so wait a day or two after rain. North facing so bring plenty of layers.
Descent
Chains for lowering off most routes. Otherwise walk right (as you face the crag) and down
[[File:Jigsaw_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]

'''1.RICHARDS ROUTE''' 9m Severe
R. Creagh (Solo). 25/03/11.
Scramble up to the base of a slab around the left corner of the crag. Climb the centre of the slab.

'''2.PINK MOON''' 9m HVS 5a
R. Creagh, D. Duggan, 16/04/11.
Climb the face left of the obvious wide crack. 41

'''3.NAME UNKNOWN''' 8m HS 4b
???
The obvious wide crack on the left of the crag.

'''4.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m VS 5a
???
Start 2m right of a large crack. Climb the faint crack to a block, move left onto a large and
finish up the corner. A long reach helps at the start.

'''5.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and finish boldly up the blunt arete.

'''6.NAME UNKNOWN''' 18m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and continue rightwards across the crag along the crack systems, finishing up Mighty Mouse. A very pumpy route!

'''7.HAWKER''' 12m E2 5c
S. Hennessey
A brilliant line, taking the obvious splitter crack on the left of the crag. Hard to start.

'''8:WICKIDY WOCK''' 12m E3 6a
S. Hennessey
Another stunning route, taking the next splitter crack and finishing up left.

'''9.NAME UNKNOWN''' 12m E5 6a
K. Power
Start up Wickety Wock but at the start of the traverse head straight up to the chains.

'''10.MIGHTY MOUSE''' 10m E1 5c
S. Hennessey
Climb the obvious fingers to hands crack on the right side of the crag.

==Further South==

There is more climbing further south, with a few routes worthy of note.

'''BLACK DYNAMITE''' 25m E5 4b, 6b

D. Duggan [2], R. Creagh [1].16/04/11

(one wire pre-placed on first ascent). Left of Richard‟s Route at Jigsaw Wall is a black corner under a large roof.The second pitch starts here. The first can be done independently.An onsight of the route would be quite bold.
1. (10m) Abseil in from the corner(or walk around to bottom), down the black, right-facing
corner with a monster crack. Climb this (a solo without size 5 or above cams) back up to the original corner. 2. (15m) Start in the right hand of 2 corners and climb easily up to the roof (good wire in small crack on left side of roof). Pull out through the roof with a strenuous sequence and gradually fight your way up the blunt arete to a good hold above the lip. Finish easier.

'''ECHINECEA''' 25m E3 5c

E. Kennedy, D. Duggan. 17/04/10.

This route takes a steep crack line south of Jigsaw Wall that is best seen from the grassy slope near Richard‟s Route. Unfortunately it is often wet.Start in the corner left of the upper crack and follow it to the roof(Escape left possible at HS). From here move airily out right and follow the crack to the top left hand side of the cliff.

==Glas Lough Crag==

From the lay-by at the head of the Gap head up the track towards Purple Mountain. After about 15 minutes the crags appear on the right. The rock looks broken on most of these cliffs with few very obvious lines. There is a rowan tree near the river towards the north end of the crag. Head straight towards the wall from this tree.
[[File:Glc.jpg|center|thumb|282x282px]]
'''STRANGE CREATION''' 12m HVS 5a

R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 22/05/10.

Near the wall there is a small arch created by 2 blocks. Just right of this a thin, broken, right-trending crack starts. Start here and follow the crack until you can gain the ramp. Go right up this for 2m and then straight up under a thin, closed crack further up. Exit right (loose)

Achill

2025-08-03T22:08:49Z

Jermur: /* Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) */

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Over 100 climbs on the sea cliffs leading to Keem bay, both Single and Multi-Pitch, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes. In addition the Slievemore ridge offers a mix of accessible slabs and mountain routes with around 15 developed climbs and plenty of development potential.'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. There is an almost 200m scramble down to the abseil point that is pretty steep and includes a lot of grassy parts that is risky without hiking boots if the ground is any bit wet. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * S (4b) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

Around 15 routes ranging from long easy and accessible slab climbing to more mountain style climbs topping out on the Slievemore ridge. Some of the shorter slab climbs start above steep, grassy approaches so an abseil might offer a more relaxed and logical approach, albeit missing the original adventure of grass and heather belays.

A bit of cleaning would bring plenty of new route potential and the current climbs such as Natasha VS and Bitch out Route E2 offer good example's of the climbing quality.

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''HS 1 Route'''

'''VS 3 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

'''E2 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ledges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along huge block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) First pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]

Achill

2025-08-03T22:07:22Z

Jermur: /* Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) */

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Over 100 climbs on the sea cliffs leading to Keem bay, both Single and Multi-Pitch, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes. In addition the Slievemore ridge offers a mix of accessible slabs and mountain routes with around 15 developed climbs and plenty of development potential.'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. There is an almost 200m scramble down to the abseil point that is pretty steep and includes a lot of grassy parts that is risky without hiking boots. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * S (4b) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

Around 15 routes ranging from long easy and accessible slab climbing to more mountain style climbs topping out on the Slievemore ridge. Some of the shorter slab climbs start above steep, grassy approaches so an abseil might offer a more relaxed and logical approach, albeit missing the original adventure of grass and heather belays.

A bit of cleaning would bring plenty of new route potential and the current climbs such as Natasha VS and Bitch out Route E2 offer good example's of the climbing quality.

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''HS 1 Route'''

'''VS 3 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

'''E2 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ledges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along huge block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) First pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]

Achill

2025-08-03T21:57:29Z

Jermur: /* Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) */

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Over 100 climbs on the sea cliffs leading to Keem bay, both Single and Multi-Pitch, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes. In addition the Slievemore ridge offers a mix of accessible slabs and mountain routes with around 15 developed climbs and plenty of development potential.'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * S (4b) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

Around 15 routes ranging from long easy and accessible slab climbing to more mountain style climbs topping out on the Slievemore ridge. Some of the shorter slab climbs start above steep, grassy approaches so an abseil might offer a more relaxed and logical approach, albeit missing the original adventure of grass and heather belays.

A bit of cleaning would bring plenty of new route potential and the current climbs such as Natasha VS and Bitch out Route E2 offer good example's of the climbing quality.

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''HS 1 Route'''

'''VS 3 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

'''E2 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ledges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along huge block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) First pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]