Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Slieve Rua

2025-06-10T00:40:29Z

Ingolfk:

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN BUM''' S 
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''.

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flaky slab in the middle between '''EVENING LIGHT''' and '''THE LOWLANDS'''. Start up the crack right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', after 3m swing right and up, thread runners in places will boost confidence.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

Slieve Rua

2025-06-08T18:51:34Z

Ingolfk: Added a new climb

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' D ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flaky slab in the middle between '''EVENING LIGHT''' and '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

Slieve Rua

2025-06-08T18:48:53Z

Ingolfk:

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' D ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flacky slab in the middle between '''EVENING LIGHT''' and '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

Aillnagapple

2024-07-25T14:33:52Z

Ingolfk:

==Introduction==

<display_map zoom="14"> 53.122192, -9.10135~Aillnagapple </display_map>

An exposed, West facing crag, which appears to dry quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with few sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on the established routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and another lower hill to the north and can be clearly seen as you drive east out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.

[[File:View.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/View.jpg]]

==Approach==

The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes. Part of the walk-in is on what appears to be a hiking trail so there may be a better way to gain access.

On the N67 between ''Kinvara'' and ''Ballyvaughan'' there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called ''Bell Harbour''. From here head towards ''Ballyvaughan'' for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block access.

From here the walk-in is about 30 minutes. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (northward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. We approached this line through the field behind the house through the gate to it's right, but as I warned above there may be a better approach. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until ''Aillnagapple'' comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is ''Singing In The Rain''.

[[File:Topo Aill.jpg|alt=Topo for Aillnagapple|Topo.jpg]] ''Left to right: Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, Mine's a T-bone, Mistaken Identity, The Bonny Hare, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!''

''To the left of Delivery Boy is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.''

'''Delivery Boy''' 12m HS ''S. McGowan (Onsight Solo), 22/08/2010.'' This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.

'''Singing In The Rain''' * 12m VS 4c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 21/08/2010.'' The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.

'''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants''' * 15m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of ''Singing In The Rain''. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.

'''Mine's a T-Bone''' * 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, Colin Tierney, 03/07/2024.'' Start as for Attack of the Orange Space Ants but continue straight up on good holds and protection.

'''Mistaken Identity''' * 15m Diff ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 05/09/2023.'' To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.

'''The Bonny Hare''' 12m Diff ''Ingolf Kühn (Onsight Solo),'' 09/05/2024 Climb up the slab between ''Mistaken Identity'' and ''The Emperors Trousers'' to the ramp (somewhat to the left) and finish up the steeper wall above.

'''The Emperors Trousers''' 12m Diff ''S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed), 22/08/2010.'' Start 10m right of ''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants'', just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. ''Possible descent route for the next two routes.''

''The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.''

'''London Bridge''' 10m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.

'''Your Ma!''' ** 10m E2 5c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of ''London Bridge''. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.

Aillnagapple

2024-07-25T14:31:11Z

Ingolfk:

==Introduction==

<display_map zoom="14"> 53.122192, -9.10135~Aillnagapple </display_map>

An exposed, West facing crag, which appears to dry quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with few sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on the established routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and another lower hill to the north and can be clearly seen as you drive east out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.

[[File:View.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/View.jpg]]

==Approach==

The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes. Part of the walk-in is on what appears to be a hiking trail so there may be a better way to gain access.

On the N67 between ''Kinvara'' and ''Ballyvaughan'' there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called ''Bell Harbour''. From here head towards ''Ballyvaughan'' for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block access.

From here the walk-in is about 30 minutes. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (northward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. We approached this line through the field behind the house through the gate to it's right, but as I warned above there may be a better approach. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until ''Aillnagapple'' comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is ''Singing In The Rain''.

[[File:Topo Aill.jpg|alt=Topo for Aillnagapple|Topo.jpg]] ''Left to right: Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, Mine's a T-bone, Mistaken Identity, The Bonny Hare, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!''

''To the left of Delivery Boy is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.''

'''Delivery Boy''' 12m HS ''S. McGowan (Onsight Solo), 22/08/2010.'' This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.

'''Singing In The Rain''' * 12m VS 4c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 21/08/2010.'' The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.

'''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants''' * 15m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of ''Singing In The Rain''. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.

'''Mine's a T-Bone''' * 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, Colin Tierney, 03/07/2024.'' Start as for Attack of the Orange Space Ants but continue straight up on good holds and protection.

'''Mistaken Identity''' * 15m Diff ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 05/09/2023.'' To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.

'''The Bonny Hare''' 12m Diff ''Ingolf Kühn,'' 09/05/2024 Climb up the slab between ''Mistaken Identity'' and ''The Emperors Trousers'' to the ramp (somewhat to the left) and finish up the steeper wall above.

'''The Emperors Trousers''' 12m Diff ''S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed), 22/08/2010.'' Start 10m right of ''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants'', just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. ''Possible descent route for the next two routes.''

''The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.''

'''London Bridge''' 10m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.

'''Your Ma!''' ** 10m E2 5c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of ''London Bridge''. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.

Mullach Mor

2024-07-24T09:51:36Z

Ingolfk:

This crag is located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the top of Mullach Mor as you approach from the south. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.

The crag faces South-South West and is broken into two areas namely Father Ted’s Crag and the French Quarter. Father Ted’s crag stretches from the west to the middle east of the south facing cliffs, while the French Quarter starts at the western corner of FT Crag and runs North. The crag looks onto Father Ted’s house under the cliffs to the west (Slievenaglasa).

The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of styles although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10 metres or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilly's chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas, in particular at Dougal's and Doyle's butress (Careful Now!)

There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.

To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mullach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).

To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladee drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretive centre.
[[File:Aeriel view of Mullach Mor.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]
Summer 2024 Update.

The Burren National Park have a shuttle bus running from Corofin to nearby Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park.
The nearby Lough Avalla farm have a nice tea room that is open on weekends.

==LE FRENCH QUARTER==

This is the west facing area of the crag whose initial climbers included a number of French. The crag is about 20m at its highest point. The rock in general is good

[[File:Mm left hand.jpg|center|File:Mm left hand.jpg]] [[File:MMFrenchQtr2.JPG|center|MMFrenchQtr2.JPG]]

'''1. GAULOISES''' 8m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the left crack, left of the prow before the crag loses height. Gain the ledge at 1m and continue up the steep crack which eases off passing two small ledges.

'''2. LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' 8m D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the groove-chute 6m left of Toulouse or not Toulouse

'''LES PROLONGATIONS''' 15m S 4a ''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 19th May 2018. ''3m right of '''LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' a thin crack slants diagonally leftwards, step off a boulder and follow the crack to reach a small ledge and large holds, gain a second ledge and trend rightwards up a crack passing a third ledge to the top.

'''3. TOULOUSE OR NOT TOULOUSE''' 10m HVS 5a ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb a corner to the left of Chauffeur with a fallen block at its base, just before the crag loses height. Climb gingerly past the hollow flake to a pod and up the steep corner crack above.

'''4. A CLASS TWO RELIC''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Start 3m right of Toulouse, Climb some thin cracks and finish up the steep crack-groove.

'''5. HENRY LE BÂTARD''' 13m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes an eliminate line between Class 2 Relic & Lucky Luke, step onto the blank slab, traverse left to Class 2 relic crack, up this for 3 m until level with the ledge. Traverse right along the horizontal break, gain and follow the vertical crack to the top.

'''6. LUCKY LUKE''' 15m D ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 22nd June 2010. ''Take the crack 3m right of class two relic, this forms the left hand end of the big alcove which is left of the Chauffeur prow. Follow the crack to the top taking care with some loose rock higher up. Worthwhile for the grade.

'''7. Scramble''' 15m Mod Easy Ascent in bay directly to left of Chauffer.

'''8. CHAUFFEUR''' * 15m V.Diff ''Conor Warner (solo), 8th April 2000. ''Follow the centre of prominent prow to the top. Good easy route.

'''10. TENTACLES OF DOOM''' 15m S/HS 4a/4b ''Eoin O’Neill, James Flanagan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes a line up the right hand side of the chauffeur prow, there are two obvious leftward trending cracks at half height, start below these and climb with sustained interest past them for the first 8m, or pass the blank section by heading left to the arete, continue on finishing as for chauffeur, a good route.

'''9. LE HANDBALL''' * 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Take the obvious crack ramp system where the protruding prow joins the main cliff, steep to start, at the grassy ledge finish up the clean crack on your left which is right of the bush.

'''11. JOE LE TAXI''' 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Takes the next groove right of LE HANDBALL. Start under an overhang a thin starting corner brings easier ground and some squeaky holds before the grassy ledge is reached (mind the large hollow flake on the left), Finish as for LE HANDBALL.

'''12. PAROCHIAL PURSUITS''' * 15m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''Takes the shallow corner groove between JOE LE TAXI and A CASE OF.... Start at the large detached block, a bouldering move leads to the top or alternately go round the back and scramble to the top of the block. climb the shallow corner groove above with a slight deviation onto the ramp on the left about half way up.

'''13. A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY''' * 12m VS 4c ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the start of St. Etienne into the niche, long step left onto a sloping wall and continue straight up this wall to the grassy ledge above.

'''14. ST. ETIENNE *''' 12m VS 4c ''Cyril Blachon, Conor Warner, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''4m left of the large tree left of Paris-Match. Up a short layback corner to a small ledge and up the crack straight above to the grassy ledge above. Good route.

'''15. ST. ETIENNE BY-PASS''' * 12m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, John O'Connor, May 2000. ''As for St. Etienne but at the ledge stand on the block swing up right onto grassy ledge, ascend the rectangular block to another grassy ledge, finish up the left facing corner crack. Another worth while route.

'''16. LA CHALEUR DU SOLEIL''' 15m HVS 5a ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the crack/wall left of tree left of Paris-Match, to a small ledge on the left. Pull through the bulge to a grassy ledge and finish more easily to the top.

'''17. LA PASSION DE ST TIBULUS''' 20m S 3c ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 11th April 2011. ''Climbs the obvious pillars left of the Paris Match bay. Start up the chimney (formed by the detatched pillar) immediately right of the tree, from the top of the pinnacle follow good cracks over several ledges to the top.

'''18. LE 'S' HOOK''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Start in the left corner, opposite from Paris-Match, under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Hand traverse away right from the thuggery above and pull into the more amenable crack line 2m left of the corner. Up this crack and to a groove above left and follow this to finish. The direct corner awaits a colder day with better friction and a climber with big arms.

'''19. MRS DOYLE'S MUFFINS''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start in the left corner under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Layback the crack (excellent gear) and pull through to easier ground above.

'''20. GO ON GO ON GO ON''' * 20m E5 6a ''Kev Power, Squib Cubbon, October 2006. ''Start as for Mrs Doyle's Muffins. At the stance below the start of the layback place big cams and then commit out the right hand crack line. Powerful moves (crux) lead Northwards to a steep corner.
[[File:MullachMor_history_008.jpg|alt=|first ascent of '''PARIS-MATCH'''|none|thumb|1024x1024px]]

'''21. PARIS-MATCH''' ** 20m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''12m left of the corner (Le Guillotine) there is an alcove with an overhang. The right hand weakness/crack is climbed by the hand crack in the slab up to a ledge. Arrange protection (small nuts), and bridge and finger jam up the blank corner to a large flat hold on your left and then trending up via the groove above past two loose sounding flakes. Belay at the very top. An excellent route.

'''22. Project''' 20m The direct start to "Your Mother's Snickers" via the 'tear drop' rock to the right of Paris Match has been climbed on top rope at 5c.

'''23. FATHER JACK'S CRACK''' * 20m E3 5c ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''This climb starts in the corner just right of Paris Match. Climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack which is climbed direct to the top. Thin on gear but enough to keep you going.

'''24. YOUR MOTHER'S SNICKERS''' 20m HS 4c ''Eoin Fitzgerald, Nigel Callender, 1st May 2000. ''This climb starts in the second corner right of Paris-Match. Start in the corner and climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack, traverse 3m left to the arête and up to the ledge. Follow the corner crack on the right and step around right to avoid the top loose block. Trend to the left to finish the route.

'''25. PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' 18m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Takes the obvious shallow corner 3m left of the Guillotine passing a small ledge with a bush at two thirds height. Start the crack with some difficulty which soon relents when large holds on the right wall come into reach. The final steep corner crack above yields to good holds on the right which lead up and right to a ledge.

'''26. LE GUILLOTINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 8th April 2000. ''At south end of the French Quarter about 2m north of the corner is a disjointed slab. Above this is an offwidth. Climb the offwidth to the second horizontal break line; move right onto the arête and up to the grassy ledge. Finish up the right hand side corner. Be careful with the rock, large friends needed.
==FATHER TED’S CRAG==

The description of this crag starts on the far left of the south-facing crag. The first bay of the crag is marked by large boulders and trees.

'''27. BISHOP BRENNAN'S BUM''' * 15m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 14th July 2011. ''The eye catching wide crack on the left hand side of the bay, Start at ground level and grapple the sickle shaped jamming crack which straightens, widens and eventually delivers you onto a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack as for the upper section of Le Guillotine. Strenuous and painful on your hands (think about taping up or use a pair of old cycling gloves), large cams and hexes will ensure a well protected ascent.

'''28. ARSE''' * 15m E1/2 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start below steep parallel cracks. Step up and right to gain right hand crack and up this to jug. Bypass the ivy choked pod treading lightly on the flakes to the left.

'''29. FECK''' * 15m E3 6a ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''On the right hand side of the bay is a thin cracked wall. Climb up the wall using RP's for protection.

'''30. GRIFFINS ARETE''' 14m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Halfway between FECK and RAM'S HEAD is an arête above large boulders. Start a few m right of the arete, a technical first move on the blank slab onto a narrow ledge and up the arête to the top.

'''31. Gospel''' 14m The open book corner has to right of Griffin's Arete has been top roped at 5b.SPIDERBABY

'''33. SPIDERBABY''' 18m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 11th April 2011. ''Follows the long buttress 8m left of Rams Head where there is a short shallow corner, Climb the corner (crux) and follow cracks to the top passing several small ledges.

'''34. PONY TAIL EXPRESS''' 8m S 4b ''Elaine Ryan (solo), 8th April 2000. ''Just left of Ram’s Head is another offwidth. This is gained from the low point of the buttress. Climb the crack to the top.

'''35. RAM'S HEAD''' 8m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender , Conor Warner, 8th April 2000. ''This offwidth is located at front of the small buttress left of FJWB. A difficult first move leads up into the offwidth. Climb the offwidth delicately to the top. The route name comes from the goat’s skull jammed in the crack.

'''36. CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY''' 8m Diff ''Danny Buckton (solo), 8th April 2000. ''The wide chimney at the right hand side of the Ram’s Head Buttress. Used as an ascent/descent.

'''37. BEACH PARTY''' * 12m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Start up the crack 5m right of Crilley’s Chimney. Climb the jamming crack to the tree. Gain a grassy ledge on your right and finish up the wall on your left through thoughtful moves.

'''38. SPICY WEDGES *''' 12m E3 5c ''Kev Power, Steve McMullan, October 2006. ''Start 8m right of beach party below the wide groove of confederacy. After a few metre's traverse left for 3m along white rock on good holds and gear. A long move (crux) leads to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

'''39. CONFEDERACY''' ** 12m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 22nd Jan 2000. ''Up the wide groove 7m left of Jack’s Bottle to a grassy ledge on the left to the root of the problem and straight on up. Good climbing on sound rock.

'''40. KIWI STEW (FATTY'S BANE)''' 12m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Danny Buckton, 8th April 2000. ''The thin crack about 1m right of Confederacy. Up to the ledge and straight up just right of Confederacy’s finish. Just right of this is a perfect finger crack, still unclimbed.

'''41. CHALK OR CHEESE''' * 13m HVS 5a ''Colm O'Ciara, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''Just left of Father Jack’s Bottle is a huge flake. Climb the flake to under the tree, traverse right to almost behind the bottle and then escape back up left. Great lay-backing. (this route was top roped directly to the top, Maeve Baxter 8/3/00)
[[File:MulachMor_March2011_009_preview.jpeg|alt=|none|thumb|1067x1067px|First ascent of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''']]
'''43. FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''The exposed free standing pinnacle can be climbed via a slab on the East side. Start from toe of pillar easily up onto detached flake and wide step up onto sound rock to the top of the pinnacle. Great photo opportunity.

About 15m to the right of Jack’s bottle is a small lone white thorn bush. This bush locates...

==MRS. DOYLE'S BUTTRESS==

[[File:MM Doyle But.JPG|center|MM Doyle But.JPG]] [[File:MM Doyle But2.JPG|center|MM Doyle But2.JPG]]

'''44a&b. MY LOVELY HORSE ''' 12m S 4a-VS 4c ''Conor Warner (S variiation), June 2008. Barry Watts, Jo Connor (VS variation), April 2010. ''Take a line up the next clean buttress. Either start in the square cut vegetated gully on the far left (S) or take the inset corner (VS) crux past two ledges, head left to easier ground when holds run out near the top, easier ground is reached by a tricky but well protected mantelshelf.

'''45. YOUNG FELLA''' '''**''' 24m HS 4a/b ''Nigel Callender, Barry Watts, 22nd Jan 2000. ''The right hand side of Mrs. Doyle's is short corner and finger crack. Layback to crack and move right onto the slab. Follow the slab up to the centre of the buttress. Up a little easier to a ledge and from there continue very delicately up the left hand side face to the top. A worthwhile route.

'''46. TOO BIG FOR SMURFS''' 24m HVS 5b ''Colm O'Ciara, Maeve Baxter, 8th April 2000. ''The inset rib between Young Fella and Blood Right. Straight up the rib and over the slight overhang to the top of Young Fella’s slab. Finish right of Young Fella’s finish in the corner.

'''47. BLOOD RIGHT''' 24m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 22nd Jan 2000. ''This takes the groove 4m right of Young Fella. It starts thinly at first by using holds on the right wall (5a). Follow the wide crack up to the ledge and finish on face holds just right of the arête (small nuts).

'''48/48a. FUNNY MEN''' 23m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 14th June 2011. 48a Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''Takes the line 6m to the right of Young Fella. Climb easy rock to the right of chute to a ledge/terrace, continue up onto face above the chute on good rock to a slight overhang bulge. Finish direct up the bulge above the chute. (or 48a at the overhang traverse 3m right and then up to finish). Good gear (loose rock in chute, Careful Now!)

A number of shorter routes exist to the right of Mrs. Doyle's Buttress. About 25m right of Blood Right is a proud buttress with a dubious flake at 4m. This is...

==DOUGAL'S BUTTRESS==
[[File:MM Dougal But 24.jpg|center|thumb|900x900px|alt=]]
'''DOOMSDAY BLUE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Start at the steep hand crack 6m left of the protruding buttress, climb this for 3m until it steepens and footholds run out. Climb diagonally rightwards to easier ground and move left to reach the terrace, finish up a left facing corner in the upper wall.

'''49. IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST''' 10m HS 4b ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''3m left of Soggy Smurf, behind the holly tree left of the suspiciously detached looking hanging flake. Avoiding the holly, climb the clean corner (crux) to a ledge then step right and finish up short leaning wall to top of pinnacle. Good gear throughout. Some loose rock on top of pinnacle .

'''50. SOGGY SMURF''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 7th Jan 2000. ''This freezing cold day ascent was the first new route of the millennium in the Burren. At the front of the buttress is a deep groove. Climb up the groove and step left into the shattered face at half height and finish delicately to the top.

'''51. AN ECUMENICAL MATTER''' 10m S 4a ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''Start as for Soggy Smurf. Excavate your way up the loose shattered groove for a few m, until your sense of self-preservation forces you right on to sounder rock. Continue to the top keeping 2-3m right of the groove. Treat rock throughout with care.

'''52. CITIZEN''' 13m S 4a ''Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''4m to the left of dancing priest there is a choss filled chute. 1m left of this is a right trending diagonal crack. Follow this crack, wide step the chute and continue diagonally rightwards on a nice slab to terrace (cross over on the dancing priest). From the right edge of the jammed flake pull strongly right up onto the narrow long ledge and continue up and right of the dubiously posed flake. Good gear. (the chute has loose rock, Careful Now!)

'''53. DANCING PRIEST''' 13m S 3c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''7m right of soggy smurf there is a slab and a large boulder above. Follow the crack left of the boulder to the ledge (crux), move left and finish up pleasant juggy crack which has a ‘fang’ it’s base. Ascend the easy terrace above to a belay on flatter ground. A pleasant climb.

'''LAND GRAB''' VD ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Climb the crack and upper wall 1m right of the suspended boulder.

'''54. SMURF SYMPHONY''' '''*''' 8m HS 4c ''Maeve Baxter, Colm O'Ciara, 8th April 2000. ''Up the right angle corner 10m right of Soggy Smurf. Climb right at the block and finish straight up.

'''55. HEIDI''' 7m Moderate ''Conor Warner (Solo), May 2009. ''Short scramble up nice sloping crack 4m right of descent

'''56. CASPER''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''About 30m right of Smurf Symphony there's a smaller version of Dougal's buttress. Climb the corner on the left to below the tree, on reaching the tree veer right and gain the juggy ledge. Finish up the short wall on good holds. Originally mistaken for 'it's great to be a priest' near dusk

About 100m on there are further buttresses along which give good scrambles and some 15m slabs at D/VD

File:Topo Aill.jpg

2024-07-24T09:45:55Z

Ingolfk: Ingolfk reverted File:Topo Aill.jpg to an old version

Topo for Aillnagapple

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2024-07-24T09:39:34Z

Ingolfk: Ingolfk reverted File:Topo Aill.jpg to an old version

Topo for Aillnagapple

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2024-07-24T09:37:43Z

Ingolfk: Ingolfk uploaded a new version of File:Topo Aill.jpg

Topo for Aillnagapple

Aillnagapple

2024-07-24T09:35:50Z

Ingolfk: I added the route description "The Bonny Hare"

==Introduction==

<display_map zoom="14"> 53.122192, -9.10135~Aillnagapple </display_map>

An exposed, West facing crag, which appears to dry quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with few sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on the established routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and another lower hill to the north and can be clearly seen as you drive east out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.

[[File:View.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/View.jpg]]

==Approach==

The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes. Part of the walk-in is on what appears to be a hiking trail so there may be a better way to gain access.

On the N67 between ''Kinvara'' and ''Ballyvaughan'' there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called ''Bell Harbour''. From here head towards ''Ballyvaughan'' for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block access.

From here the walk-in is about 30 minutes. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (northward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. We approached this line through the field behind the house through the gate to it's right, but as I warned above there may be a better approach. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until ''Aillnagapple'' comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is ''Singing In The Rain''.

[[File:Topo Aill.jpg|alt=Topo for Aillnagapple|Topo.jpg]] ''Left to right: Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, Mine's a T-bone, Mistaken Identity, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!''

''To the left of Delivery Boy is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.''

'''Delivery Boy''' 12m HS ''S. McGowan (Onsight Solo), 22/08/2010.'' This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.

'''Singing In The Rain''' * 12m VS 4c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 21/08/2010.'' The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.

'''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants''' * 15m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of ''Singing In The Rain''. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.

'''Mine's a T-Bone''' * 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, Colin Tierney, 03/07/2024.'' Start as for Attack of the Orange Space Ants but continue straight up on good holds and protection.

'''Mistaken Identity''' * 15m Diff ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 05/09/2023.'' To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.

'''The Bonny Hare''' 12m Diff ''Ingolf Kühn,'' 09/05/2024 Climb up the slab between ''Mistaken Identity'' and ''The Emperors Trousers'' to the ramp (somewhat to the left) and finish up the steeper wall above.

'''The Emperors Trousers''' 12m Diff ''S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed), 22/08/2010.'' Start 10m right of ''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants'', just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. ''Possible descent route for the next two routes.''

''The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.''

'''London Bridge''' 10m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.

'''Your Ma!''' ** 10m E2 5c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of ''London Bridge''. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.