==Introduction==

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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.

Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.

Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.

All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.

The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.

Because it is south facing and sheltered, the
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.

'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''

As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."

The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.

==Overview, Parking and Maps==

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]

[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]

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==Entrance Wall==
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.

[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]

'''Sylvester''' 9m VD ''G. Fogg. May '99'' Up corner to top. Good protection.

'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.

'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a ''G. Fogg. May '99.'' 1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.

'''Grod''' 9m VD ''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan'' Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish

'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99'' 2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.

'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon '80's'' Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.

'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.'' Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.

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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's'' Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face

'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.

'''Lolos''' grade?? ''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable?? ''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.

'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b ''N. Mahon. '80's.'' Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish

'''Rugrats''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.

'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''

'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD ''G. Fogg. '99.'' 15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected

'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''

'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' 1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]

'''First Corner''' 15m VD ''Tyndall. 80's.'' Follow arête to top.

==Left Pigs Wall==
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.

[[File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_224327100.jpg]]

'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99 ''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.

'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a ''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's ''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.

'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m ''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000 ''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.

'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a ''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's ''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.

==The Bay of Pigs==
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''

From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack.

The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.

The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Traverse''' '' G. Fogg. 31/5/2000 ''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.

Bouldering'' '''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' '' G. Fogg. 1/10/2000 ''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.

[[File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_011149460.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m ''G Fogg'' First bolted route from left on main wall.

'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.

'''Pigeon''' 6b+ ''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000'' Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.

'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+ ''H Fogg G Fogg 2003 ''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.

'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m ''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.'' Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.

'''Animal''' F6b 15m ''B Dunne, N Mahon'' This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.

'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m ''G Fogg'' Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.

'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.'' Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.

'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.

==Main Terrace==
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.

This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.

The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.

'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave. ''M.Manning. 80's.'' Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.
Direct Finish 5m A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.

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'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.'' Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c ''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)'' Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.

Direct start 6a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)'' It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.

[[File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_005205715.jpg]]

Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below

'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.'' About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.

'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's'' 2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.

'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b ''G Fogg solo'' 1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).

'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).

'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a ''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's'' Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.

'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.

'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.

'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.

'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.'' The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.

'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b ''26/9/99.'' Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.

'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.'' 1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.

'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.'' 2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts

'''Clover''' 7m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.

'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a 1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.

'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.

'''Disc''' 7m 6a+ Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.

'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.

'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.

'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Left of bush, past small overhang.

'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' 2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.

'''Ascent Route''' 14m D ''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.'' Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.

==Above Main Terrace==
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.

Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.

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Feel free to mark climbs on this picture

'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S ''N. Mahon. 80's'' Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.

'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a ''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.

'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.

'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.'' Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.

'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.'' Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.

'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.'' Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.

'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.'' A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.

'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.'' Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.

'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a ''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.'' 1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.

'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's'' Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.

'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a ''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.'' About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.

'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a ''B. Dunne. 80's.'' 4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.

'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD ''T. Brophy. 80's'' To top to the left of Widowmaker.

'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b ''T. Brophy. 90's'' Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.

==Long Traverse Ledge==
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.

'''Stone Pony''' 6b+ ''G Fogg H Fogg 2003 ''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge.

'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a ''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's'' A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.

'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.'' Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).

'''Open Book''' 20m F6a ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.'' Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.

'''The Prow''' 20m F6b ''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.'' Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.

'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+ ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's'' The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)

'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02'' From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.

'''Gecko''' 10m F7a ''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.'' ''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.'' This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts).
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.'' This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.

'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS ''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's'' 2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.

'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a ''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.'' Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.

==Upper Terrace==
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.

For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.

[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]

'''Stinger''' 17m 6b ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.

'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+ ''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.'' Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.

'''Apache Mountain '''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage. ''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.

'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5 ''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.'' 3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.

'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.

'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.'' 1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.

'''safe space''' 20m 6b+

H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011

The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace.

'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.

'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a ''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.

'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c ''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.'' 3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.

'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.'' 2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.

'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+ ''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.'' 3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.

'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.

'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS ''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's'' 3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.

==Gromwell Bay==

[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a ''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.'' Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.

'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+ ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.'' Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.

'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b ''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.'' Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).

==Fear Breaga Buttress==

[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]

Feel free to mark climbs

'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D ''G. Fogg. '99.'' Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.

'''Central Crack''' 6m VD ''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.'' Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.

'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff ''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.'' In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.

==Four-Inch Holes==
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''

'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.'' Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.

'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS ''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.'' Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.

'''Jenga''' 5m S ''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.'' Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.
==Potential Crag==
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs.

Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.)

[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]

Ballykeefe Quarry

2021-05-02T19:00:06Z

Hughhennessy:

Foill An Priosun

2021-04-28T17:26:14Z

Hughhennessy: Added one line

[[File:foil an prisun.jpg|200px]] 
Location - This cliff is at approx. 500 metres in altitude above the main Carrick-on-Suir to Dungarvan road. It is to the west of Kilclooney Farm which is marked on the 1/2 inch O. S. map but not marked on sheet 75 (1 -50000 series).

Approach - The best approach to the cliff is from the Carrick - Dungarvan road. Cars may be parked at the South end of the forest at Grid Ref. S342097. The forest boundary may be followed easily to the south west corner, then follow some faint sheep tracks (if you can find them) in the direction of the cliff. It stands out as an obvious prow of rock high on the left (south) as you approach from the forest. Allow about forty minutes for the 1. 5 km approach.

Cliff [[Media:Waterford - Foilan Prisoon.pdf|Topo]] with additional routes 

===Southern Arete===

'''THE GREAT ESCAPE''' 80m VS 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c 
Opposite the South-facing cliffs, and forming the southern boundary of the Prisoon itself, is an arete. Despite its somewhat unprepossessing appearance, this provides a delightful and satisfying outing of five 10 - 15m pitches. Each pitch presents a different challenge and each is fully worthy of its grade. The frequent belays offer repeated opportunities to savour the view and the experience and to light up [smokers only]. 
1. Start at the RHS of the arete. Climb the jamming crack and wind leftwards under the overhang into a groove. Belay under the overhang. 
2. Climb up on RHS and step immediately leftward across the lip of the overhang [small friend in vertical crack] to gain the arete. Continue over stacked blocks to grassy belay. 
3. From LHS of arete, follow short diagonal crack to arete and step confidently around to short slab. Belay at large block. 
4.Cross heathery slope to easy-looking rock. Closer-up, this has the appearance of magnified congealed porridge. Everything is rounded and keen eyesight is needed to find gear. 
5. Climb the obvious wide broken crack. Everything seems to be hunkydory until the final surprise dose of 'porridge'. Belay on spikes at what proves to be a pinnacle. 
Descent: Sheep tracks to south, viewed on the ascent look suitable although not used on this occasion. 
G.Fogg, M.Griffin; B.McConnell, E.McBride. 24/7/2015. Onsight.

===South-facing cliff===

The easiest descent is by making one's way down to the abseil point over Piper's Groove. 
Routes described from right to left [east to west]

[[File:page 1 topo.jpg|600px]]

'''From large lower ledge'''

'''RANDOM FITS o' DAFFIN''' 30m HVS 5a 5a

This is the corner, just to the right of ''Maastricht Groove'', that marks the boundary between the South-facing and East-facing sections of the cliff.

Approach: As for ''Greeted by Ants .'' Clip the peg and continue, with more protection, past ''Maastricht Groove'' to gain the corner.

1. 15m 5a Bridge up the corner. At the overhanging blocks, make a move to gain the arete and continue to belay above.

2. 15m 5a Go up, past the next ledge and more easily, until confronted by the huge blocks that bar the way. The gap between them being too narrow to negotiate, traverse awkwardly left and up past a small rowan tree.

3. 5m 4b Climb the back of the 'room' (as mentioned below) to passageway down to the terrace and abseil.

G.Fogg M. Griffin 26/5/2021 Onsight.

'''MAASTRICHT GROOVE''' 40m HS 4b 
J Bergin, M Keenleyside, June 1996 
This route climbs the obvious, [from a distance] double groove at the south-east corner of the crag Note, this groove cannot be seen from where one begins the climb, near the right hand end of the large ledge. Start 10 m right of Shak at right of ledge, just left of hollow shelf. 
1. Make a diagonal ascending traverse to the right past ivy to gain access to the base of the large groove on the right edge of the cliff. Belay. 
2. Climb the groove, moving to the right where the crack gives two options. A wide bridge at the top enables the climber to reach good handholds so as to exit to the left.

'''GREETED BY ANTS''' 40m HVS 5a/b 
Start from same point as for Maastricht Groove. 
l. 25m. 5a/b Climb easily up to small overhang at 3m [now with peg] Step right to gain shallow groove/crack. Follow this to belay ledge. 
2. 15m. As for Shak or else clamber right over holly bush into circular 'room' and climb the back of this to the stairway to the first ledge and abseil. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg, B. Dunne 16/9/2001 onsight.

'''SKILLIGOLEE''' 30m E1 5a 
Start at same point as Greeted by Ants. The route goes to the left of the little overhang at 3m, following a thin crack towards the left-slanting overhang at half-height. On the way to this, there is a faint bulge; getting past this feels slightly committing as the crack disappears above and the next apparent protection is at the overhang. However, some small wire placements can be found. Above the overhang is easier climbing along the left side of a large flake. 
G Fogg, H Fogg 8/6/2007 onsight.

'''SHAK''' 40m VS 4c 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 28th. August, 1989 
Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. (1). 25m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.
From higher smaller ledge

'''THUNDER ON THE MOUNTAIN''' 50m VS 4c,4c 
Left of Shak, at right hand end of upper narrow ledge [above larger main ledge]. 
1. 35m Climb detached block to base of left-facing crack. Up this to right-facing flake crack. A detached block on the ledge above forms an overhang but this presents no obstacle. Belay on ledge. 
2. 15m Climb the obvious crack to slabby section and follow groove at left to top. 
G Fogg H Fogg H Fogg 9/9/2006 onsight

'''THE WILD SIDE '''35m HVS 5a ''' '''
Start up left-facing crack as for Thunder on the Mountain but instead of going left, go right along grassy ledge to corner. Up this past small overhang and clean slab to ledge, Exit onto either 'Thunder' ledge on left or Shak ledge on right 
G Fogg, H Fogg H Fogg 29/4/2007 onsight.

'''BLACK OUT''' 55m E2 5b 5b 5a 
Start approx. 5m left of Thunder on the Mountain. 
Pitch 1 25m 5b Ascend creaky flakes to left-slanting shallow corner and follow this to harder exit left to belay ledge at holly tree. 
Pitch 2 12m 5b Climb crack and slab in exposed position with minimal protection to next belay. 
Pitch 3 15m 5a To top. 
H Hennessy, T Krol 17/3/09 onsight.

'''From higher up the gully''' 

Getting back down from these climbs is quite complex and a little bit magical. 
Head down the most southerly of the east facing part of the cliff. Keep right [looking out] and down-climb easy rock onto a ledge above a hole in the terrace below. The left end of this ledge leads to the terrace. Pass the aforementioned hole [which can be taken but involves a drop at the bottom] and descend the amazing little gully beyond which twists around and down to a second lower terrace. Head north on the terrace to the abseil point above Piper's Groove. 

'''THE OLD RUGGED CROSS''' 65m E2 5b, 5b, 5a 
This follows the sharp-edged left-facing flake crack that starts at 5m and continues to belay at holly tree [shared belay with 'Black Out']. 
Start 5m right of 'Echo Crack', directly below right-hand side of big overhang high up. 
1. 25m 5b 
2. 15m From the belay, step down and make a thin traverse [5b] of the break to the delightful 5a crack which leads to the ledge at the left-hand side of the overhang. This ledge is shared with 'Echo Crack' and 'Jailbreak'. 
3. 25m 5a As for 'Echo Crack' : Up crack, traverse right and up huge right-slanting corner. 
G. Fogg [1], M. Walsh [2], Hh Fogg 24/9/2011 Onsight. One rest for cleaning on pitch 1. 

Direct finish ''' ALWAYS LOOK ON THE BRIGHT SIDE''' 
As for pitch 2 but continue by bridging up behind the overhanging block and finish up the arete. 50m of pure pleasure. Easy climbing in a stunning environment. 
G. Fogg, H. Fogg, Hh Fogg 8/9/2012

'''ECHO CRACK ''' 50m E2 5b, 5c 
Near the centre of the south-facing cliff is a large overhanging block at half-height. The climb starts vertically below this on a ledge at the detached tooth for the belayer to sit on. 
1 25m Follow the left-slanting jamming crack to belay in the triangular niche at the top of the pillar 
2. 25m From the niche, bridge up and jam the overhanging crack and make a spectacular and exciting move out unto the face at right [crux]. Claw up past vertical grass to ledge. Continue more easily up crack until forced to traverse right and up the pleasant comer to top. 
G.Fogg, H,Fogg 24/7/2004 onsight.

'''JAILBREAK''' 60m E3 5b,5c,4c,5a,5c 60m 
1 25m 5b As for Echo Crack 
2. 5m 5c As for Echo crack to ledge. Belay. 
3 12m 4c Up crack to overhang. Place gear [2.5 friend] and traverse delicately left until ready to ascend on edges and pebbles to grassy ledge. 
4. 8m 5a Clean corner. 
5. 10m 6a Eschew the welcoming easy crack and chimney behind the holly bush. Instead, send your second leftwards past this to grovel around ledge, past crack to make a semi-hanging belay on large spikes out of sight. Climb crack to horizontal break [nuts] then fight up to large chock-stone and easier off width finish. 
G.Fogg [3,4] H.Fogg [5] 14/8/2005 onsight.

===East-facing cliff===
Running on Empty' [aka Physiognomy] is the formation that looks like the left-hand side of a face. This likeness may be seen, from, as far away as the road, to right to the base of the climb. 
Descent is by abseil from the first terrace above Pipers Groove.

[[File:page 4_topo.jpg|800px]]

'''DROP LEFT''' 40m HVS 5a 40m 
From the start of Running on Empty, make exposed moves to gain the arête. Follow this and the crack to the ledge. 
P Britton, C Ennis 17/3/09 onsight.

'''RUNNING ON EMPTY '''44m E1 5b ''' '''
Climb the right-facing corner to the first overhang [nose), move right under this and up to second overhang [eye-socket], right under this and up to terrace. Good protection. 
J Bergin, M Lyng 12/9/1996

'''PIPER'S GROOVE '''40m VS ''' '''
This is [presumably from its appearance, and from the ancient piton above] the very traditional-looking vegetated groove immediately right of `Running on Empty'. It is difficult to relate the VS grade to more recent climbs and grades. 
T J Meldrum, R J Wathen 1957

'''BRIAN'S SLAB''' 40m E1 5a 40m 
The slab to the right of Piper's Groove. Totally absorbing climbing. The start is the hardest where the rock is broken and slightly undercut. Above, follow the crack near the left side of the slab for protection. As this fades to the left, transfer to the crack to the right and repeat higher up. Small gear throughout. 
G Fogg H Fogg S. Gallwey 21/4/2007,

'''At the right hand [North] side of the east facing cliff is a bay with a big overhanging shelter over a slab. The following climbs are in this bay.'''

'''AMULET''' 16m HVS 5b 
On the left i.e. north-facing wall of the bay, near the outer edge. 
Climb the thin crack and escape left onto platform, Up slab to second platform. Up crack to terrace. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg ,H.Fogg P.Melanophy 28/8/2004

'''OLD DOG''' 14m E2 6a 
4m right of Amulet. From the ramp, climb the short crack to where it splits the small overhang. Past this [crux] and follow crack to ledge. Top as for Amulet 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 28/8/2004 onsight.

'''ECO VANDAL''' 15m VS 4c 
Start to left of Cross-eyed and Painless. Follow thin crack up ramp to vertical section then move left and up crack to vegetated ledge. Up short corner crack to terrace. 
G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg N.Walls 5/9/2004

'''CROSS-EYED AND PAINLESS''' 15m VS 4c 
Climb the right edge of the ramp, then ascend steeply up a thin crack to gain a ledge at the beginning of a niche which is climbed more easily to the top. 
S. Ryan, J Bergin 26/7/1989

'''Whipping BOY''' 15m E4 6a

climbs the roof crack four meters right of cross-eyed and painless. Belay from a grassy ledge below the back of the roof. Climb the slab to gain the crack, climb this to a difficult move over the lip, continue up crack until it is possible to step right underneath smaller roof, climb through this on good holds and finish up short corner.

H.Hennessy (unseconded) 24/4/21 (ground up after cleaning, one piece insitu from previous attempts)

 

'''From first terrace'''

'''RAVEN'S WING''' 8m HVS 5b 
South from the abseil point on the first terrace, at bottom of `stairway' descent from second terrace. Bridge up under overhang to trapped flake and move out right to finish up cleft. 
G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg 5/9/2004

Foill An Priosun

2021-04-28T17:23:51Z

Hughhennessy: New route

[[File:foil an prisun.jpg|200px]] 
Location - This cliff is at approx. 500 metres in altitude above the main Carrick-on-Suir to Dungarvan road. It is to the west of Kilclooney Farm which is marked on the 1/2 inch O. S. map but not marked on sheet 75 (1 -50000 series).

Approach - The best approach to the cliff is from the Carrick - Dungarvan road. Cars may be parked at the South end of the forest at Grid Ref. S342097. The forest boundary may be followed easily to the south west corner, then follow some faint sheep tracks (if you can find them) in the direction of the cliff. It stands out as an obvious prow of rock high on the left (south) as you approach from the forest. Allow about forty minutes for the 1. 5 km approach.

Cliff [[Media:Waterford - Foilan Prisoon.pdf|Topo]] with additional routes 

===Southern Arete===

'''THE GREAT ESCAPE''' 80m VS 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c 
Opposite the South-facing cliffs, and forming the southern boundary of the Prisoon itself, is an arete. Despite its somewhat unprepossessing appearance, this provides a delightful and satisfying outing of five 10 - 15m pitches. Each pitch presents a different challenge and each is fully worthy of its grade. The frequent belays offer repeated opportunities to savour the view and the experience and to light up [smokers only]. 
1. Start at the RHS of the arete. Climb the jamming crack and wind leftwards under the overhang into a groove. Belay under the overhang. 
2. Climb up on RHS and step immediately leftward across the lip of the overhang [small friend in vertical crack] to gain the arete. Continue over stacked blocks to grassy belay. 
3. From LHS of arete, follow short diagonal crack to arete and step confidently around to short slab. Belay at large block. 
4.Cross heathery slope to easy-looking rock. Closer-up, this has the appearance of magnified congealed porridge. Everything is rounded and keen eyesight is needed to find gear. 
5. Climb the obvious wide broken crack. Everything seems to be hunkydory until the final surprise dose of 'porridge'. Belay on spikes at what proves to be a pinnacle. 
Descent: Sheep tracks to south, viewed on the ascent look suitable although not used on this occasion. 
G.Fogg, M.Griffin; B.McConnell, E.McBride. 24/7/2015. Onsight.

===South-facing cliff===

The easiest descent is by making one's way down to the abseil point over Piper's Groove. 
Routes described from right to left [east to west]

[[File:page 1 topo.jpg|600px]]

'''From large lower ledge'''

'''RANDOM FITS o' DAFFIN''' 30m HVS 5a 5a

This is the corner, just to the right of ''Maastricht Groove'', that marks the boundary between the South-facing and East-facing sections of the cliff.

Approach: As for ''Greeted by Ants .'' Clip the peg and continue, with more protection, past ''Maastricht Groove'' to gain the corner.

1. 15m 5a Bridge up the corner. At the overhanging blocks, make a move to gain the arete and continue to belay above.

2. 15m 5a Go up, past the next ledge and more easily, until confronted by the huge blocks that bar the way. The gap between them being too narrow to negotiate, traverse awkwardly left and up past a small rowan tree.

3. 5m 4b Climb the back of the 'room' (as mentioned below) to passageway down to the terrace and abseil.

G.Fogg M. Griffin 26/5/2021 Onsight.

'''MAASTRICHT GROOVE''' 40m HS 4b 
J Bergin, M Keenleyside, June 1996 
This route climbs the obvious, [from a distance] double groove at the south-east corner of the crag Note, this groove cannot be seen from where one begins the climb, near the right hand end of the large ledge. Start 10 m right of Shak at right of ledge, just left of hollow shelf. 
1. Make a diagonal ascending traverse to the right past ivy to gain access to the base of the large groove on the right edge of the cliff. Belay. 
2. Climb the groove, moving to the right where the crack gives two options. A wide bridge at the top enables the climber to reach good handholds so as to exit to the left.

'''GREETED BY ANTS''' 40m HVS 5a/b 
Start from same point as for Maastricht Groove. 
l. 25m. 5a/b Climb easily up to small overhang at 3m [now with peg] Step right to gain shallow groove/crack. Follow this to belay ledge. 
2. 15m. As for Shak or else clamber right over holly bush into circular 'room' and climb the back of this to the stairway to the first ledge and abseil. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg, B. Dunne 16/9/2001 onsight.

'''SKILLIGOLEE''' 30m E1 5a 
Start at same point as Greeted by Ants. The route goes to the left of the little overhang at 3m, following a thin crack towards the left-slanting overhang at half-height. On the way to this, there is a faint bulge; getting past this feels slightly committing as the crack disappears above and the next apparent protection is at the overhang. However, some small wire placements can be found. Above the overhang is easier climbing along the left side of a large flake. 
G Fogg, H Fogg 8/6/2007 onsight.

'''SHAK''' 40m VS 4c 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 28th. August, 1989 
Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. (1). 25m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.
From higher smaller ledge

'''THUNDER ON THE MOUNTAIN''' 50m VS 4c,4c 
Left of Shak, at right hand end of upper narrow ledge [above larger main ledge]. 
1. 35m Climb detached block to base of left-facing crack. Up this to right-facing flake crack. A detached block on the ledge above forms an overhang but this presents no obstacle. Belay on ledge. 
2. 15m Climb the obvious crack to slabby section and follow groove at left to top. 
G Fogg H Fogg H Fogg 9/9/2006 onsight

'''THE WILD SIDE '''35m HVS 5a ''' '''
Start up left-facing crack as for Thunder on the Mountain but instead of going left, go right along grassy ledge to corner. Up this past small overhang and clean slab to ledge, Exit onto either 'Thunder' ledge on left or Shak ledge on right 
G Fogg, H Fogg H Fogg 29/4/2007 onsight.

'''BLACK OUT''' 55m E2 5b 5b 5a 
Start approx. 5m left of Thunder on the Mountain. 
Pitch 1 25m 5b Ascend creaky flakes to left-slanting shallow corner and follow this to harder exit left to belay ledge at holly tree. 
Pitch 2 12m 5b Climb crack and slab in exposed position with minimal protection to next belay. 
Pitch 3 15m 5a To top. 
H Hennessy, T Krol 17/3/09 onsight.

'''From higher up the gully''' 

Getting back down from these climbs is quite complex and a little bit magical. 
Head down the most southerly of the east facing part of the cliff. Keep right [looking out] and down-climb easy rock onto a ledge above a hole in the terrace below. The left end of this ledge leads to the terrace. Pass the aforementioned hole [which can be taken but involves a drop at the bottom] and descend the amazing little gully beyond which twists around and down to a second lower terrace. Head north on the terrace to the abseil point above Piper's Groove. 

'''THE OLD RUGGED CROSS''' 65m E2 5b, 5b, 5a 
This follows the sharp-edged left-facing flake crack that starts at 5m and continues to belay at holly tree [shared belay with 'Black Out']. 
Start 5m right of 'Echo Crack', directly below right-hand side of big overhang high up. 
1. 25m 5b 
2. 15m From the belay, step down and make a thin traverse [5b] of the break to the delightful 5a crack which leads to the ledge at the left-hand side of the overhang. This ledge is shared with 'Echo Crack' and 'Jailbreak'. 
3. 25m 5a As for 'Echo Crack' : Up crack, traverse right and up huge right-slanting corner. 
G. Fogg [1], M. Walsh [2], Hh Fogg 24/9/2011 Onsight. One rest for cleaning on pitch 1. 

Direct finish ''' ALWAYS LOOK ON THE BRIGHT SIDE''' 
As for pitch 2 but continue by bridging up behind the overhanging block and finish up the arete. 50m of pure pleasure. Easy climbing in a stunning environment. 
G. Fogg, H. Fogg, Hh Fogg 8/9/2012

'''ECHO CRACK ''' 50m E2 5b, 5c 
Near the centre of the south-facing cliff is a large overhanging block at half-height. The climb starts vertically below this on a ledge at the detached tooth for the belayer to sit on. 
1 25m Follow the left-slanting jamming crack to belay in the triangular niche at the top of the pillar 
2. 25m From the niche, bridge up and jam the overhanging crack and make a spectacular and exciting move out unto the face at right [crux]. Claw up past vertical grass to ledge. Continue more easily up crack until forced to traverse right and up the pleasant comer to top. 
G.Fogg, H,Fogg 24/7/2004 onsight.

'''JAILBREAK''' 60m E3 5b,5c,4c,5a,5c 60m 
1 25m 5b As for Echo Crack 
2. 5m 5c As for Echo crack to ledge. Belay. 
3 12m 4c Up crack to overhang. Place gear [2.5 friend] and traverse delicately left until ready to ascend on edges and pebbles to grassy ledge. 
4. 8m 5a Clean corner. 
5. 10m 6a Eschew the welcoming easy crack and chimney behind the holly bush. Instead, send your second leftwards past this to grovel around ledge, past crack to make a semi-hanging belay on large spikes out of sight. Climb crack to horizontal break [nuts] then fight up to large chock-stone and easier off width finish. 
G.Fogg [3,4] H.Fogg [5] 14/8/2005 onsight.

===East-facing cliff===
Running on Empty' [aka Physiognomy] is the formation that looks like the left-hand side of a face. This likeness may be seen, from, as far away as the road, to right to the base of the climb. 
Descent is by abseil from the first terrace above Pipers Groove.

[[File:page 4_topo.jpg|800px]]

'''DROP LEFT''' 40m HVS 5a 40m 
From the start of Running on Empty, make exposed moves to gain the arête. Follow this and the crack to the ledge. 
P Britton, C Ennis 17/3/09 onsight.

'''RUNNING ON EMPTY '''44m E1 5b ''' '''
Climb the right-facing corner to the first overhang [nose), move right under this and up to second overhang [eye-socket], right under this and up to terrace. Good protection. 
J Bergin, M Lyng 12/9/1996

'''PIPER'S GROOVE '''40m VS ''' '''
This is [presumably from its appearance, and from the ancient piton above] the very traditional-looking vegetated groove immediately right of `Running on Empty'. It is difficult to relate the VS grade to more recent climbs and grades. 
T J Meldrum, R J Wathen 1957

'''BRIAN'S SLAB''' 40m E1 5a 40m 
The slab to the right of Piper's Groove. Totally absorbing climbing. The start is the hardest where the rock is broken and slightly undercut. Above, follow the crack near the left side of the slab for protection. As this fades to the left, transfer to the crack to the right and repeat higher up. Small gear throughout. 
G Fogg H Fogg S. Gallwey 21/4/2007,

'''At the right hand [North] side of the east facing cliff is a bay with a big overhanging shelter over a slab. The following climbs are in this bay.'''

'''AMULET''' 16m HVS 5b 
On the left i.e. north-facing wall of the bay, near the outer edge. 
Climb the thin crack and escape left onto platform, Up slab to second platform. Up crack to terrace. 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg ,H.Fogg P.Melanophy 28/8/2004

'''OLD DOG''' 14m E2 6a 
4m right of Amulet. From the ramp, climb the short crack to where it splits the small overhang. Past this [crux] and follow crack to ledge. Top as for Amulet 
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 28/8/2004 onsight.

'''ECO VANDAL''' 15m VS 4c 
Start to left of Cross-eyed and Painless. Follow thin crack up ramp to vertical section then move left and up crack to vegetated ledge. Up short corner crack to terrace. 
G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg N.Walls 5/9/2004

'''CROSS-EYED AND PAINLESS''' 15m VS 4c 
Climb the right edge of the ramp, then ascend steeply up a thin crack to gain a ledge at the beginning of a niche which is climbed more easily to the top. 
S. Ryan, J Bergin 26/7/1989

'''Whipping BOY''' 15m E4 6a

climbs the roof crack four meters right of cross-eyed and painless. Climb the slab to gain the crack, climb this to a difficult move over the lip, continue up crack until it is possible to step right underneath smaller roof, climb through this on good holds and finish up short corner.

H.Hennessy (unseconded) 24/4/21 (ground up after cleaning, one piece insitu from previous attempts)

 

'''From first terrace'''

'''RAVEN'S WING''' 8m HVS 5b 
South from the abseil point on the first terrace, at bottom of `stairway' descent from second terrace. Bridge up under overhang to trapped flake and move out right to finish up cleft. 
G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg 5/9/2004