'''Swiss Valley'''

This huge crag is located just on the Leitrim side of Glencar Water. It is a truly magnificent crag with stunning views and a real "big-wall" feel to it. It would be very hard to find anything like it in terms of exposure and steepness for the grades. The main wall is covered in jugs, albeit a bit dusty prior to cleaning. The rock itself is likely the reason the awe-inspiring crag hasn't been climbed before because it doesn't lend itself well to the "ground up" approach. All routes have been cleaned and top-roped prior to first ascent (apart from Yosef's route which was cleaned by Yosef and onsighted by Jon... and no Yosef didn't name it). It is suggested others also clean and top rope new routes first given friability of the rock. The crag should be treated similarly to a sea cliff with all access from the top. There are access issues with the bottom and the rock is quite bad in the bottom section.

A 50m absail will get you to the belay spots. Bringing an extra bit of rope to make an anchor makes things smoother but not essential. The last couple meters of routes (apart from Enigma and Prime Lime which as clean to the top) can be a bit grassy but not too bad as far as Irish standard go. Easily avoidable by pulling on the ab rope once grass starts but there is enough solid rock in the grassy part to climb as well.

The access from the top couldn't be easier. You can drive up a forestry road to the top of the mountain and walk 15min to the first route. There are laybys all along the road up that you can use. Be mindful of farmers that use the top as it is all commanage up there.

Here is a pin to the top parking:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/fjZgMUp9rb198oo47

Pin to the crag:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/4wB2qVF7nig7iNay5

Link to Topos and Pics

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1E7yuP1tr5u4W1AAGoARRPaH1gm6Y6vWS
[[File:Swiss Valley whole wall.jpg|thumb|981x981px]]
 
[[File:Prime yosef.jpg|alt=|center|thumb|869x869px|Yosef on prime lime climb]]

 
[[File:Swiss Valley MAIN WALL.jpg|thumb|952x952px|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_Valley_MAIN_WALL.jpg]]

[[File:Swiss valley topo.jpg|thumb|Bird's eye view of the crag]]

#'''Enigma**''' VS 30m

A beautiful corner climb and a great intro to the crag and perfect for those that don't want the exposure of the main wall right away. Belay at the bottom of the crack that runs the entire length of the corner. Overcoming the block that sticks out 1/3 height. Finish on hidden jug pockets in a small overhang on the right hand wall. Lots of medium cams for the crack makes the climb more relaxed. Don't stray from the corner as it hasn't been cleaned elsewhere.

''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022''
[[File:Swiss valley enigma.jpg|thumb|Enigma]]

2. '''Prime Lime Climb''' E4/5 40m

An interesting climb on thin ledges that you crimp up the entire way with no real rests. Belay in the corner underneath the roof on the right. Traverse right under the roof and climb up on loose but unbudging blocks. Keep heading right until near the arete and able to head up until you can traverse back left on decent holds to a crack. Follow the crack up past a difficult section. At the top head leftwards by surmounting the roof to a clean finish and avoiding loose finish.
[[File:Swiss valley prime.jpg|thumb|Prime Lime Climb|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_prime.jpg]]

3. '''Fossil Features''' HS 25m

Belay in a small sentry box with a crack above it 1.5m left of the corner and above an overhang. Climb upwards and slightly leftwards at the top. The whole wall is covered with jugs so climb as you please. The rock is quite solid here with even the thinnest fossils holding strong. The top can be a bit loose.

''Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 7th May 2024''
[[File:Swiss valley fossil.jpg|thumb|Fossil Feature HS]]

4. '''Lime Ligh'''t VS 50m

Possibly slighty harder than Enigma but much longer and rock quality a bit worse. Start at the large ledge 50m down. Offset nut up high on the right wall to belay from (also use your ab rope!) can be placed while absailing. Climb the corner to near the top where you should traverse onto the overhanging wall on the right to finish and avoid the loose corner finish.

''Yosef Dvores, Laura McMorrow, 2022''
[[File:Swiss Valley Side view MAIN WALL.jpg|thumb|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_Valley_Side_view_MAIN_WALL.jpg]]
'''Yosef's route''' HVS 50m

Start on large ledge 50m down below obvious crack. Surmount the overhang on the left of crack and climb the left side of the crack (right side of crack very dusty up until jugs lead you slight leftward up to the top. The entire wall is just jugs so just head up and slightly left to reach the top and avoiding white dust.

''Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour, 12th May 2023''
[[File:Swiss valley yosef route.jpg|thumb|637x637px|Yosef's Route - Spot Yosef on the main wall|link=Special:FilePath/Swiss_valley_yosef_route.jpg]]

'''Optimus Lime''' VS 35m

Start in a 0.5m squared platform at the bottom of shallow corner. Climb the corner until there a sloping ledge of another corner. Start of this corner just above the sloping ledge is probably the crux. Continue up this corner to near the top where it is likely easier to move onto face to finish. Again it's all jugs so you can move onto the face out of corner of desired.

'''Little drops of coolness''' E1 45m

Start on a narrow ledge below a thin crack and a few meters above a bigger ledge underneath. Climb straight up, weaving whichever way tickles your fancy.

'''Lime in the ballnut''' E1 50m

The first and probably scariest route done at the crag. Start at a hanging belay just above a big overhang. Climb up and then around the arete to enigma. Done in a single pitch but can be split in two.

''Yosef Dvores, Jon Gilmour 17th May 2023''

File:Prime yosef.jpg

2024-07-01T17:40:04Z

Griznovski:

prime lime climb yosef

2021-04-04T20:47:53Z

Griznovski: Correction to last note about the numbering.

This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.

The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently on the left side opening up several new good routes. Grades range from S to E2.

Note: The numbers on the topo photo below don't correspond to the numbers in the list of routes. No. 1 in the photo is More Street Trader (no. 9 in the list), no. 2 in the photo is Polish Paddy (no. 10 in the list), and so on. There isn't a photo showing routes 1 to 8, although you can see where Under the Carpet starts - up the slanted rectangular block between two fence posts to the left of Moore Street Trader (the fence posts aren't there any more).

[[Image:ScalpNaGcapail.jpg|600px]]

1. '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)'' 
The route takes the left hand side of the wall. 
Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.

2. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a/b) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019'' 
Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds

3. '''Juliana''' 25m VS (4c) 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).

3(a) '''Lockdown Lunacy''' 25m E2 (5c) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
A few metres right of Juliana there is a large ledge at 2 metres. Gain the ledge.
Midway along the ledge, climb the overhang with difficulty using the thin crack to gain good stance above. Climb the wall to a detached flake at mid height (thread runner). Continue to stance below the righthand end of overhang. Climb this, strenuously, to top and belay.
Good protection throughout.

4. '''Lavia''' 25m E1(5b) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top.

''3m to the right of this is''

5. '''Firestarter''', 20m E1(5b) * 
''C Ó Fiannachta, J Gilmore. 13/05/2019'' 
This route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves using small flat holds to surmount this to good holds and rest. The fire has been started. Finish straight up slabby wall.

6. '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019'' 
Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.

''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..''

7. '''An Domhan Nua''', 20m, S(4a) 
''C. Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 27/04/2019'' 
Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.

8. '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017'' 
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.

''The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by''

9. '''Moore Street Trader''' 25m HVS (5a) * 
''(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.

10. '''Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay

11. '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b) 
''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)'' 
Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay

''The rightmost crack line is taken by''

12. '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay

13. '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b) 
''(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)'' 
On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Do not belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off as it’s dead. Better now to finish up more easily on the cleaned groove on left or further left by joining one of the previous routes.

14. '''Postie Pornstar''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)'' 
The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.

''Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:''

15. '''Hanging Tree Chimney''' 25m Severe (3a) 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.

16. '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.

''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by''

16(a) ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.

17. '''Teach Urlar''' 17m HS (4b) 
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007) 
Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay

''The adjoining crack is taken by''

18. '''Floozy in the Jacuzzi''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.

''One metre further right is another crack…….''

19. '''Crack Cocaine''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.

Scalp na gCapail

2021-04-04T20:43:23Z

Griznovski: Added note to clarify mismatch between numbers in the photo and in the list of routes.

This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.

The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently on the left side opening up several new good routes. Grades range from S to E2.

Note: The numbers on the topo photo below don't correspond to the numbers in the list of routes. No. 1 in the photo is Under the Carpet (no. 8 in the list), no. 2 in the photo is More Street Trader (no. 9 in the list), and so on. There isn't a photo showing routes 1 to 7.

[[Image:ScalpNaGcapail.jpg|600px]]

1. '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)'' 
The route takes the left hand side of the wall. 
Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.

2. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a/b) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019'' 
Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds

3. '''Juliana''' 25m VS (4c) 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).

3(a) '''Lockdown Lunacy''' 25m E2 (5c) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
A few metres right of Juliana there is a large ledge at 2 metres. Gain the ledge.
Midway along the ledge, climb the overhang with difficulty using the thin crack to gain good stance above. Climb the wall to a detached flake at mid height (thread runner). Continue to stance below the righthand end of overhang. Climb this, strenuously, to top and belay.
Good protection throughout.

4. '''Lavia''' 25m E1(5b) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top.

''3m to the right of this is''

5. '''Firestarter''', 20m E1(5b) * 
''C Ó Fiannachta, J Gilmore. 13/05/2019'' 
This route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves using small flat holds to surmount this to good holds and rest. The fire has been started. Finish straight up slabby wall.

6. '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019'' 
Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.

''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..''

7. '''An Domhan Nua''', 20m, S(4a) 
''C. Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 27/04/2019'' 
Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.

8. '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017'' 
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.

''The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by''

9. '''Moore Street Trader''' 25m HVS (5a) * 
''(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.

10. '''Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay

11. '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b) 
''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)'' 
Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay

''The rightmost crack line is taken by''

12. '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay

13. '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b) 
''(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)'' 
On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Do not belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off as it’s dead. Better now to finish up more easily on the cleaned groove on left or further left by joining one of the previous routes.

14. '''Postie Pornstar''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)'' 
The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.

''Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:''

15. '''Hanging Tree Chimney''' 25m Severe (3a) 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.

16. '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.

''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by''

16(a) ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.

17. '''Teach Urlar''' 17m HS (4b) 
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007) 
Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay

''The adjoining crack is taken by''

18. '''Floozy in the Jacuzzi''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.

''One metre further right is another crack…….''

19. '''Crack Cocaine''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.