Gerry Fogg:

==Crotty’s Rock – Main Face==

A number of ways have been forged up the arête on the main face of Crotty’s Rock. Maha Mind provides the most direct option and is recommended. However, all options recorded here are enjoyable. Ong Gong Arête, and its direct finish, were ground up ascent and thus follow natuarlly clean lines. The keen will start from the lowest point, but it is possible to skip the first step of rock on the first pitch, but the leader and belayer must first both get established directly under the square cut overhang above.
[[Image:CrottysMainFaceTopo1.jpg|350px|left|Main Face]] 

 

'''['''

'''[Not] Up For The Match''' 85m E1 4c 5a 5b At the top left [eastern] side of the crag is a flat face and at its right-hand edge, a clean corner curving up and overhanging very slightly at the top. 
Start at the gully below, to the left of the start of Maha Mind/Ong Gong Arete, which is bridged by a large block.

1. 30m 4c. Climb up below the block and chimney in behind it to emerge on a woodrush slope. Continue up this and onto the green ledge on right.

2. 30m 5a. Climb up deceptively easy-looking vegetated rock to base of top corner.

3. 25m 5b. Up the corner. A clean honest pitch in a spectacular situation.

G. Fogg [1 & 3] H. Fogg [2] 7/9/2014. On sight.

[Historical note All three of the first ascentionists of the next route ''Maha Mind,'' died climbing: Colm and Peter in the Alps and Stephen, closer to home, in Ballykeeffe.]

'''Maha Mind''' 118m E1 5b, P. Britton, S. Galwey, C Ennis (shared leads), August 2003 A line straighter than, and in part common with, O.G.A.

[''Originally graded HVS - me bollocks! - With it’s 5b crux, length, location and a couple of other challenges, this is not a pushover at E1. This route is quite an undertaking., requiring craft, technique and composure and the long dry days of mid-Summer.'']

1. 5a 38m Same as pitch 1 of O.G.A.

[''More like 42m. Keep going (the line is obvious) until you reach the belay ledge - which is a large flat comfortable rectangle.'']

2. 5a 32m A 2m layback move just above the belay concludes with a balance move into a shallow groove. Climb to the right of the rib above and then enter the large V groove beyond. Above the groove, climb the 3m right facing corner using a finger crack then move up and left into an enclosed belay.

[''More like 22m. The enclosed belay is in behind a large flake. The crack with the off-width top is clearly visible above.'']

3. 5b 50m Climb the left trending crack above, the last 3m is overhanging and off-width. From the good stance above, climb the right facing crack to its conclusion at 3m. Take a step up and right on the wall and climb delicately to the top, exit off the wall leftwards. Traverse some 8m over the broken blocks then climb to the final pinnacle.

[''Most pairs will think it sensible to take a belay immediately above the off-width crack. Above this, the looming pinnacle , after the initial flake, has an intimidating appearance of blankness. That’s where you are going. After this, the remainder of the route, across boulders and up a final slope is a scramble.]'' 

'''''Oh Gee''' finish to Maha Mind: P. Britton, C. Ennis (shared leads), 23 August 2003 ''
''Pitchs 1 & 2 as per Maha Mind.''

''3. 5a 20m Avoid the last overhanging 3m of the off-width crack by stepping left and then traversing back onto the top of the crack. Belay just beyond the crack.''

''4. 4b 30m Move a few metres rightwards onto the sharp arête and climb onto the top of a 3m block. Now step directly back left onto the exposed wall above the crack of the last pitch. Move delicately to the top of this; protection is limited but footholds are good. Traverse some 8m then climb up to the final pinnacle.''[[Image:OngGongArt.jpg|300px|left|Main Face]] 

 

'''Ong Gong Arête '''
124m HVS 5a, P. Britton, J.Morrissey, ( 25th July 1999) This climb takes the longest possible line up the main face of Crotty’s Rock. The first pitch has some heather near the start and appears easy, however it proves otherwise and introduces the first of many enjoyable airy rightward steps. Start at 530m height about 10 m left of the remains of an old fence line.

1. 5a 38m - From the lowest point of the crag, climb the short slab to the heather terrace. Some 20m up the wall above a 2m square cut overhang is clearly visible; rejoin rock at a point directly below this*.
Climb to a stance just under the square cut overhang (1½ tri-cam and size 1 cam recommended, no protection after this). Step boldly out to the right, initially using pocket holds. Continue delicately to the top of the steep slab. Move right 3m and up to a belay ledge. 

Note:* (Alternatively, access from the left and setup belay for first pitch at this point on the sloping terrace.)

2. 4a 22m - Climb the right facing corner on the left of belay. Move up then traverse rightwards. Pass by the entrance to the large V groove; instead use the green tinged ramp to the right, which is gained by an airy step. Climb the ramp with improving holds then move left to a belay ledge with a knee height cave.

3. 4a 15m - Climb another steep right facing corner using a finger crack then move up and left to where a short crack leads into an enclosed belay. Find protection at rear of this.

4. 4b 22m - Ascend from the belay near its outside edge, then move right to the main arête. Another airy step to the right followed by some awkward moves up a crack leads to the right hand side of the arête. Climb the wall above near it's outside edge. Belay at a spike on the now exposed arête.

5. - Direct Finish - P. Britton, G. Moss, T. O'Neill (6th May 2000) 
5a/b 12m - Beyond the arête a large block rests against the final wall. Climb the block to a comfortable stance. From here traverse committingly rightwards into the base of twin cracks on the steep exposed face. Climb these to gain the top.

6. - Diff 15m Exit by a traverse and short climb to the upper pinnacle.

'''Original pitch 5.'''
“Long John Finish” With enjoyable bridging and chimney moves. 
Abseil down 15m from the belay spike (bring tat) onto the RHS of the arête. Move 12m to the right to below an obvious wide crack system. 
(5) 4a 40m - Climb the large cracks and flakes with bridging moves to gain the chimney above. Then move past a block from where more pleasant chunky and/or chimney moves lead to the top.

Mahon Valley

2025-07-02T21:19:28Z

Gerry Fogg: /* STACK'S CLIFF */

These cliffs have perhaps the easiest access of any of the Comeragh cliffs. Cars may be parked at GR314080 and a good surfaced track may be followed as far as the Mahon falls, if you are headed for the higher cliffs.

==PATHSIDE CRAGS==

'''Car Park Crags'''

From the car park, looking towards the falls, these are close by on the left- hand side (West). A ledge divides the rock into an upper and a lower band.

'''YERR OWN ARE THE WORST''' 10m HVS 5b

Visible from the car park, starting from the ledge, above an undercut section, this crack slants to the right before tracking back left and up.

Start: up the rough edge of the flake. Interest is maintained to the top.

G. Fogg, J. Bergin 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''An Giorra Butress'''

'''This little buttress with the following 2 routes is approximately 100m from the track (to the left) which leads to the Mahon Falls and is approx. 30m above it. It stands out as an obvious vertical and clean piece of rock, about 250m from the car-park, and its south-facing wall is marked on the right hand side by an obvious off-width crack.'''

'''The first two climbs are at the south-facing wall (facing the car park):'''

'''CALLUNA''' 10m HS 4b 
J. Bergin, M. Lyng, 5. 9. 1996 
This route takes the vertical crack line which starts about 3m to the left of An Giorra Maol. Climb the crack for 4m to the rightward trending break, move to the right and continue steeply upwards on bigger and better holds. Belay well back.

'''AN GIORRA MAOL''' 8m VS 4c 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
This route takes the crackline about one meter to the left of the off-width crack. Well protected.

'''PHLOGISTON''' 8m E2 6a

The ‘obvious off-width’. The crack is deeply undercut at the bottom which makes getting established both difficult and strenuous. For protection, you will need two large cams: a largish one to cover the first move and a second bigger one (Camalot 5 or equivalent) higher up.

G. Fogg, J. Butler 6/7/2022 On sight.

'''Further 100 m into the valley, the next three climbs are at an east-facing wall (facing the footpath):'''

'''LEFT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
J Bergin, J Hennessey, June 1990 
Climb the left hand crack using some painful hand-jams.

'''CENTRE CRACK''' 10m HVS 5a 
J. Bergin, A. Widger, 25th May 1990 
This route climbs the obvious jamming crack in the centre of the buttress.

'''RIGHT HAND CRACK''' 8m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin, Sept 1989 
The route climbs the thin crack on the right hand side of the wall to gain the terrace above.

==Keating’s Cliff (East-facing cliff)==

'''The following routes are located on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls.''' 
Ancient Rain is in the middle of the high cliff above the path, just above an overhanging rock that juts out from the sloping hillside below. The crag shown in the topo is at the further continuation of this band of cliffs, near to the Falls.

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''' ANCIENT RAIN''' 65m E2 4c, 5c 
S Gallwey, J Bergin, June 1991 
This route is located on the large and steep crag high up on the left of the valley as you approach the Mahon Falls. It tackles the highest part of the cliff where a double stepped overhang dominates the wall. 1. 20m Start to the left of the overhang, at the base of a corner formed by a slanting and protruding slab/ramp which runs diagonally to the right. Climb up this corner and then the ensuing slab to the large recess below the overhangs. 2. 45m. Bridge up the corner on the left hand side of the overhang until you can commit yourself to the crux sequence on the steep left-hand wall. Keep going on past the overhangs to the niche above and into a groove on the left which eases off to a belay just below the top. Very good protection.

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[[image:coum mahon.jpg]]

'''5 MAHON CHIMNEY''' 20m HVS 5a 
S. Gallwey, June 1981 
The chimney is situated at the left hand end of the crag and is formed by a huge crack splitting some detached blocks. Climb chimney facing left on lower section and right on upper section. Poor protection.

'''HAPPY CRACK''' 20m E4 6a 
Up the centre of the face to the right of Mahon Chimney. 
This little route is an ideal one for the hard-climbing visitor to warm up on: from a sunny ledge with the the sight and sound of running water in the background and an easy walk-in, mostly along a metalled path. It is short, there are holds and protection, it looks about HVS. Sure, how hard could it be?? 

Start: up the edge of the ramp to the face. Up the centre of this to the strong crack through the small overhang and continue to top. 
H. Fogg, G. Fogg 16/9/2014. On sight.

'''6 HISSING SID''' 40m E1 5b 
S. Gallwey, O. Jacob, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the corner up the steep face of the left hand buttress to the right of Mahon Chimney. 1. 10 m. Climb up left hand side of the slabs to a large grassy ledge at the base of the corner. Belay. 2. 30 m. Climb up the corner until it is possible to step left onto a ledge after the first overhang. Regain the base of the undercut corner (crux) and continue up the corner until it is possible to exit up the left hand wall.

'''7 SALAMANDER''' 42m HVS 5a, 4b 
O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, W. Lee, October 1981 
This climb takes the centre of the slab up the left hand side of the central buttress. Start at the left hand corner of the slab. 1. 24 m. Climb the crack to just above the overhang. Traverse right (no protection) on whitish rock for 6m. into the centre of the slab. Climb up into a niche (crux) and gain the obvious crack to the left, reaching a belay on the grassy ledge. 2. 18 m. Climb wide juggy crack to top.

'''8 DERANGED COUSINS''' 45m HVS 5a, 5a 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the Salamander slab just left of the arête. Start at base of arête. 1. 22 m. Climb short wall to a ledge at 6m. Climb leftwards into a groove and continue on up cracks above the groove. Belay halfway up the cliff on a ledge on the arête, just below overhang (large friends or nuts for the belay). 2. 23 m. Step up left onto a ledge and climb straight up the face above, protection improving with height. Continue on up the face keeping close to the arête. The overhang is climbed on large holds just left of the break. 
'''Alternative finish 5b''' 
E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey. May 1987 
From the horizontal break 3 m. below the overhang, step around the arête into a deep corner. Climb the slab to the right until standing on the sharp nose. Climb straight up the impending wall above for 5m. to top.

'''9 THE LISTING ATTIC''' 45m VS 4c, 4c 
S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt, (alternate leads) May 1987 
This climb takes the right hand side of the large slab on the buttress on the right of the Salamander slab. Start at the centre of face. 1. 25 m. Climb up easy ground just right of centre until just right of a niche where it is possible to traverse out rightwards onto the arête, thus avoiding the grass. Climb the arête with a difficult move to avoid the overhang. Continue up to belay on the arête below a second overhang. 2. 20 m. Climb the second overhang to the left keeping as close to the arête as possible (crux). Continue on up the face to a sloping ledge where it is possible to escape rightwards if desired. Traverse left below impending band of rock to a vertical crack, which is climbed to top.

'''9a Dave The Rave''' 45m VS 
D. Keane, P. Flynn, April 2014 
1. Start to the right of The Listing Attic and follow the grassy crack to belay at the ledge at the overhang, there is a lot of space here for large cams or hexes. 2. Continue by traversing left over the grass to cleaner rock (Mid slab). Climb slightly diagonally right crossing a grass filled crack all the way to the final overhang. Traverse left to finish.

'''10 IOMAIRE NA CAORTHAN''' 53m HS 4b, 4a 
J Bergin, A Widger, May 1990 
This climb takes the obvious arete approx 20m to the right (north) of the Salamander slab. (50 meter ropes desirable). Start in the gully to the right of the ridge proper. 1. 8m. Climb easily for about 5m until it is possible to traverse left onto the arête, then climb with confidence over a small prow. Continue and belay at a small Rowan tree. 2. 45m. Climb the arête to the top.

==STACK'S CLIFF==
This is the name given in the 1958 Climber's Club Journal (and confirmed in conversation with local sheep-farmers in 2024) to those on the right-hand side as one approaches the Falls i.e. South- West-facing cliffs.
The 1956 routes Heifer Buttress, Calf Rib and Hilary's Horror are described as being at the eastern end of the cliff and Jacob's Ladder[1957] as being at the western end. Assuming that the writers did not confuse east and west, that puts the 1956 routes further away from the [Mahon] Falls than Jacobs Ladder, in the direction of Waterfall Slabs. As obvious and inviting lines on this section of the cliff are limited, there must be a strong suspicion that some, at least, of the 1969 routes followed the same lines as the 1956 routes. Locating the account of the 1956 routes would clear this up.

[[Image:Stacks_cliff.jpg|900px|centre|Main Face]] 

'''THE PLAYGROUND AREA'''

Moving leftwards (to NW) from The Dreaming Gully, as the end of the cliff is reached, the ground rises, the top of the cliff slopes down, and the now-shorter cliff faces West. There are two sections of climbable rock here, both offering single pitch routes of about 25m, with a short and easy walk back to the bottom. Both overlook the area at the top of the Falls. This is an area likely to be reached by the more energetic or adventurous visitors to the Falls. Depending on whether or not you enjoy having an audience, this may or may not be an advantage; on Tuesdays in mid November, it is not an issue.

'''Playground 1''' The first (lower) section: fairly clean slabby rock with vertical cracklines.

'''MENE''' 26m VS 4c

Start to the left of centre and follow the two parallel cracks through a slight bulge near the top. Slightly longer and steeper than it appears and with moderate protection.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''PLAGROUND 2''' The second, higher section, dominated by a large hanging slab at the top.

'''TEKEL''' 25m VS 4c/5a

Follow the broken rib that leads to the prow just to the right of the hanging slab. Climb the crack just right of the arete and then go left into the groove between prow and slab.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 12th November 2024 On sight.

'''Dreaming Gully routes'''
'''The following routes are located on the east facing wall of the large gully immediately to the right of and overlooking the Mahon Falls. While the first pitch of The Dreaming contains some potentially loose rock, it was well tested. However, from the belay ledge, there are three fine lines up compact rock in an excellent situation. It is well worth abseiling in from a large block about 10m back from the cliff to climb any or all of these routes.'''

'''INARTICULATE DREAMS''' 20m HVS 5a (as a stand-alone route, having abseiled in) otherwise 45m E1 5b 5a in combination with pitch 1 of ''The Dreaming.'' 
J. Bergin, S. Ryan,. 5 August 1989 

20m 5a. Follow a good crack, easily and spectacularly to a crack on the left side of the overhang. Climb this to the top.

'''THE DREAMING''' 45m E1 5b, 5b 
J. Bergin, S. Gallwey, 10 May 1989

Start on the clean slab of rock two-thirds of the way up the left-hand-side of the gully, under some broken-looking rock. 
(1)25m 5b Traverse onto the slab from the gully. Climb the slab on good holds until forced into a long and blind reach to the left for a good jug. Climb up steeply through an overhanging groove, with some potentially-loose rock, then up more easily (veer slightly left to simplify matters) and belay on a comfortable ledge.

5c Variation, pitch 1: instead of following the overhanging groove rightwards, make a thin committing move to the left, and straight up. (G. Fogg 16/5/2023).

'''Direct Start''' From below the slab, follow the undercut corner and continue in a straight line along the left-hand-side of the slab to gain the flake and the original line. Perplexing start (6a) to the corner and thin moves (5c) on the slab. G. Fogg 17/7/2022 onsight.

(2) 20 m. Climb up the slab to the overhang, which is turned to the right. Follow the crack on the arête to the top (not visible from belay). 
'''Direct Finish E1 5b''' 
J. Bergin, J. Hennessey. May 1991 
From the belay ledge, continue directly through the overhang onto the headwall. Spectacular.

ASYLUM SEEKING 15m HVS 5b

The corner to the left of Political World

J Bergin, M Lyng

'''POLITICAL WORLD''' 15m S 4a 
J Bergin, S Gallwey, 22 April, 1990 
This climb follows the right edge of a steep wall near the top of the western gully higher up the gully than the start of The Dreaming. Start at an obvious leftward trending ramp. Climb this ramp with confidence until it is possible to place protection behind a large flake. Step left onto the wall and climb trending right, up a crack and steeply to the top. 

At the top of the gully, two short cleaned lines diverge in a narrow vee from the same start:

'''DUMP TRUMP''' 10m HS 4b/c

The left-hand line follows the corner.

J. Bergin, G. Horgan

'''THUMP TRUMP''' 10m VS 4c/5a

The crack to the right.

J. Bergin, A. Widger

'''The following two climbs are on the corner of the right-hand buttress as you enter the above gully.'''

'''BROKEN DREAMS''' 18m HS 3c 
J.O'Keeffe J. Horgan June 9th 2012

Start 5m Left & 7m higher up of Big Bang Theory
Climb obvious crack line for 8m, traverse left for 1.5m (Crux) then up slab section over obvious spikes (good protection) the route then joins into big bang theory. 
Tat has been placed for abseiling off both routes.

'''BIG BANG THEORY''' 25m HS 4a 
J. Bergin, R. Smith, Early 2000's 

Starting 5m right of the entrance to the large gully described in the above climbs on a West facing wall overlooking the main coum. 
Well protected for the top 18m or so of the climb, Big Bang Theory follows a varied width corner crack for the majority of the route. The crux is at approx 19m and involves exiting the crack/corner. After passing the crux proceed for 6m over a large block to belay. 
The top belay should be checked for loose rock but the stance is quite spacious and affords great views of the Mahon valley.
Abseil descent off large block to gully floor.

'''The following climbs''' ( ''Waterfall Slabs, Toadpipe, Raving, Screwtape )'' '''were originally stated as being in Foill an Priosun, but best efforts at locating them place them on the North-East cliff (South-West facing) in Coum Mahon. This is on the basis of identifying and repeating Waterfall Slabs.'''

'''*****************************************************************'''

''' '''

'''N.B. The following routes are described, in order, from East (right) to West (left).'''

'''WATERFALL SLABS''' 46m D 
Joss Lynam, solo, 19 July 1969 
The obvious water-worn slabs at the east end of the crag. Start just east of the right hand stream, cross it after about 12m and go up the slabs between the two streams to the top. Conglomerate - fairly sound.

'''TOADPIPE''' 73m VD 
Tom Wolfe, Joss Lynam, (alt leads), 20 July 1969 
This climb is just to the left of the second big grass gully west from the waterfall. The gully is distinguishable by a rock island in its lower part. Start at the foot of a small slabby buttress. 1. 24m. Climb the buttress and scramble up grass to the foot of a wall. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 2. 12m. Climb the wall moving left. , then right to a ledge. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 3. 9m. Climb the wall above the ledge. Go diagonally left. , then move right just below a grass ledge and climb into a recess. Conglomerate - fairly sound. 4. 9m. Pull out of the recess, up rock, and then steep grass to the foot of a chimney in a corner. Conglomerate - fairly sound. The chimney is the logical finish, but it is very loose (sandstone) and the climb was finished as follows - 5. 18m. Traverse left round a corner into a grassy recess and then climb a chimney to easy ground. Sandstone - loose.

'''TOADPIPE DIRECT''' 71m VS 4b, 4b, 4b, 4c/5a

In trying to find the fit between the physical features of this buttress and the written description of ''Toadpipe ,'' the conclusion is reached that that route follows ‘the line of least resistance’ . At the top, in particular, the only possible match with the loose sandstone chimneys mentioned, is on heather up the scruffy right hand side of the buttress.

The ''Direct'' route takes an uncompromising line up the centre of the buttress, heading for the large right-facing corner at the top. The climbing is not difficult but the exposure is considerable and protection minimal, including at the belays.

1. 28m 4b A show of intent is given by climbing straight through the overhang halfway up (having placed the first and last protection of the pitch) rather than skirting around it to the left. Continue up heather to the next rock wall.

2. 22m 4b Straight up to a good ledge.

3. 15m 4b To corner.

4. 6m 4c/5a Corner to top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 16/9/2024 On sight.

'''SUPER FLUMINA''' 82m E1 3c 5a 5b

Location: This goes up the centre, to the highest point of the ''Screwtape/Raving'' buttress, going straight through some unlikely-looking overhanging territory in its the upper reaches.

Start: 20m to the right of the rib of ''Raving.''

1. 30m 3c Scramble up the 45 degree sloping ramp leftwards to a little bay, backed by a clean rock face and a poor belay at its left-hand side.

2. 24m 5a Traverse right atop a thin sheet of soggy vegetation to a wet corner and good anchors. Climb up here, going out from the corner to the arete. Continue up the edge of a large flake, pass behind this, and up another arete to a large grassy ledge. This ledge has been otherwise untroubled by the feet of men or beasts.

3. 28m 5b Climb up from where you arrived at the ledge, being careful not to dislodge the loose blocks near the arete and continue up the grooves above. These grooves are the product of two intersecting sets of vertical joints that here give rise to a series of grooves of about 60 degrees, separated from their neighbours by little aretes of a similar angle, producing, in this part of the cliff only, a columnar appearance to the rock.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 14/8/2024

The first two pitches were climbed on sight. The top 10m of the top pitch was glanced at, but not touched, two years earlier on abseil in a scan of the likely feasibility of the line.

'''RAVING''' 137m HS 
Niall Rice, R. Kinsella, 19 July 1969 
Start - To the right of Screwtape 1. Up the obvious rib. 2. Loose rock to a belay in the corner. 3. A steep wall to easier ground. 4. Traverse left and finish up last pitch of Screwtape. (There is a direct finish but it is loose and was not led).

'''SCREWTAPE''' 79m HS 
Christy Rice, Paddy O'Brien, Joss Lynam, 19 July 1969 
Start - Just right of a deep gully, the third from the waterfall slabs below a big nose. 1. 18m. Up a few feet, then move left onto the nose, up, back R. and straight up to a ledge. (Conglomerate - rotten). 2. 15m. Up the wall on the left, then R. , then L. round the bulge and up easily to the bridge of the nose (Conglomerate - very rotten). 3. 24m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. Then traverse R. on loose flakes and climb up into the recess, (Sandstone - loose). 4. 21m. Up grass slopes heading for the L. edge of the big buttress above. but for more interest, traverse R. down a grassy ramp, swing round onto a rib, and climb it to the top. (Sandstone).

Screwtape Revisited

There is evidence, on both sides of the valley for the squeezing of the rocks, at some time, along an axis approximately SE - NW. This is most apparent in the finer-grained layers, resulting in a cleavage at a high angle to the more-or-less horizontal lie of the beds. It can also be seen, though less-well developed in the coarser-grained conglomerate. Screwtape is a good place to observe this!

The 1969 group was a strong party of experienced climbers. However, it seems likely that most of their experience would have been on granite - in Dalkey, Wicklow and further afield - including in the Greater Ranges. It is unsurprising then that they were not impressed by the seemingly-flaky nature of the rock that they found. So what is the climbing like?? The first two pitches are easy to follow. Above that, the description is less clear, due to: 1) the lack of an obvious line and; 2) the difficulty of identifying the feature described as ‘the big buttress above’. Nonetheless, there is good climbing to be had.

'''SCREWTAPE REVISITED''' 80m E1 4c, 4c, Diff, 5b, 5a

1. 18m 4c Good climbing as described. Rock: flaky-looking but, treated with respect, good.

2. 15m 4c As described. Rock quality of initial wall excellent; then a scramble to a little col.

3. 20m Diff. A little bit of easy rock, then grass, then more easy rock and more grass. Rock quality: irrelevant.

4. 20m 5b Go up easily to a little rock wall above a patch of small willows and place some good protection. Then, descend to the right, behind the trees, to the edge of the void. [It might be necessary to pull up one rope and throw it back down, so that it can be clear of the trees.] Edge gingerly across to gain the undercut arete, avoiding some suspect flakes. A couple of moves brings you to a position of remarkable exposure - standing on a small square jutting block, with 60m of fresh air beneath your feet. Go around the arete and make some technical moves to a ledge. Rock quality: excellent.

5. 10m 5a The previous pitch brings you to the lower end of a grassy ramp - and to the ‘more interesting’ finish of the 1969 party. Climb the rib as described. Rock quality: excellent.

Pitches 1,2,3,5 C. Rice, P. O Brien, J. Lynam 19/7/1969 Pitch 4 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 17/9/2020 on sight.

'''AT THE PITTES BRINKE''' 65m E1 5a 5b/c

20m to the right of ''The Line'', a moist corner slants across to the left at an angle of 30 degrees to meet an overlap at 10m.

1. 38m 5a Start a couple of metres left of the corner and climb the slab, heading for the junction between corner and overlap. Good protection can be found here for the move through the overlap. On the slab above, follow the left slanting crack until it becomes a small corner and here climb the little arete to grass and gear (30m). Make a rising traverse across grass and woodrush for 8m to a good stance below the square arete.

2. 27m 5b/c climb the arete, mostly on its right hand side to its apex. Then, move boldly right, following a thin curving undercut crack onto the hanging slab. Thin moves but with some good protection, lead up past a fist-sized slot to the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 8/4/2025

Abseiled previously to check the availability of protection above the overlap on pitch one and for some cleaning at the overlap. Little or no account was taken of the second pitch.

'''THE LINE''' 65m E2 5b 5b

Location: In the centre of the cliff, mid-way between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''Screwtape.'' The first pitch climbs the ruler-straight left-facing corner; the second pitch continues up the left side of the light-coloured prow above.

1. 40m 5b. Easy ground, then keep to the slab to the right until you can step left onto the grass pad in the corner. Above, the back wall bulges. Getting up this is the crux and the gear here is small, hard to find and hard to trust but ‘be ye men of valour’ , there are better holds and gear-placements above. Follow the corner to its very end (including the grassy top) to belay immediately below the headwall.

2. 25m 5b Follow the cracks above the belay. Holds and gear placements abound but the wall overhangs slightly making it quite pumpy. The angle eases towards the top.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 25/9/2022. Abseiled previously to remove the carpet of grass turf in the corner of pitch 1.

'''AND I SAW A NEW HEAVEN''' 68m E1 5a 5b

An excellent route with a good variety of climbing. The first pitch may look a little scruffy and ill-defined but the climbing is good and the route makes perfect sense when you are on it.

Location: Midway between ''Jacob’s Ladder'' and ''The Line'', is a poorly-defined, broken A-shaped buttress, just to the right of the start of ''Artemis'' and ''Apollo''; at its base is a clean 8m slab at a comfortable angle.

1. 38m 5a Climb the slab (unprotected) then move left to rough rock. Go up the arete and then the left-slanting corner, then up a steep crack. This leads to a near-vertical grass sheet. Before this is reached, a broken crack joins from the right. Follow this at an easier angle, over vegetation and go up past a square jammed flake of unknown security to belay in a corner beside a patch of furze.

2. 30m 5b From the belay, move out boldly right onto the clean jutting nose. Climb to the top of this (good nuts in a crack) and move to the right into a rectangular recess resembling a door-case, complete with a square-cut lintel making a little roof at the top. Exit left into the generous cleaned groove and continue up into the clean corner above. Go up past the peg to the top of the corner and top out to the right

G. Fogg, M. Griffin Pitch 1 29/4/2025 on sight. Full route 18/6/2025

The route was first attempted on 29/4. The first pitch received extensive cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. The second pitch was not amenable to on-sight cleaning and, in its uncleaned state did not seem ‘justifiable’ , and a different (though not easier or safer) line was taken to the left. This was written up at the time as ''Sicut Cervus E2 5a 5b'' but can safely be relegated to the position of footnote. The corner and (especially) the groove were cleaned a week later on abseil and, because the climbing seemed thin and the protection seemed lacking, a peg was put in. As it turns out, the peg wasn't really necessary but it is still reassuring for the final crux move topping out. If your ethics or conscience do not allow you to clip it, then don’t . Either way, only God (and your second) will know and no one will care.

'''ARTEMIS''' 80m E2 5a 5b/c

Location: 10m to the right (East) of ''Unseen Things Above,'' the first pitch climbs the left-slanting groove between the flake/buttress and the wall behind. (''Unseen Things'' climbs the left edge of this buttress). The groove is vegetated but this is of no consequence since the climbing consists of bridging between the edge of the flake and the clean, solid and delightfully knobbly back wall. The top 25m of the second pitch is superb high-quality climbing on clean rock.

1. 35m 5a. Up a couple of metres of vegetation to reach rock and then the groove. Bridge up this to a grassy belay.

2. 45m 5b/c. From the belay, go up and right over easy ground for 20m towards the (very small) corner in the centre of the face. Where the rock steepens, follow the edge of the triangular flake to the base of the corner . This is marked by a small square plate jutting from a slot. Climb confidently to the top, finding good protection from small nuts for most of the way.

G. Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 The first pitch was climbed on sight. An attempt was made on the second but, when no crack was found in the back of the corner, and with no sign of gear-placements visible from below, it seemed unwise to continue (‘Fain would I climb but yet fear I to fall’). An easier line was then taken to the top and a cursory examination and perfunctory clean made on abseil, consistent with safety. The easier line, at 4c, combines with the first pitch to give an excursion at HVS as follows:

'''APOLLO''' 80m HVS 5a 4c

1. 35m 5a Pitch 1 of ''Artemis.''

2. 45m 4c From the belay, go up and slightly left towards a stunted (pedunculate-) oak tree. Squirm past this on the right and follow a good edge and crack towards a (scary-looking but actually sound) hanging flake. Pass this on the left to the top.

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 28/8/2022 on sight.

'''UNSEEN THINGS ABOVE''' 80m E2 5b 5c 5b

Location: ''Jacob’s Ladder'' is easily identified by the detached block at its base. The bay to the right (East) of it is defined on its right hand side by an obvious overhanging corner/groove.

1. 30m 5b Climb the groove, exiting right into a good belay nest.

2. 25m 5c From the belay, traverse delicately left for two metres to a narrow grass ledge and follow the crack up to the slot above. Intricate climbing through this leads to a grassy platform.

3. 25m 5b. From the belay, go up and, on the left of the arete, pull strenuously up the flake-crack to a stance and then, to avoid thin suspect flakes, keep left and climb spectacularly up the edge of the thin-but-solid sharp arete to its top. From here, protection can be found in the bottom of the crack to the left, which separates the glass-smooth slab from heathery rock. The top is a few metres up. Walk off from here i.e. below the top band of rock.

G. Fogg (1,3) H. Fogg (2) M. Griffin 7/8/2022 On sight.

'''JACOB'S LADDER''' 82m HS [original grade - but read to the end] 
R. J. Wathen, K. I. Meldrum 1957 
This is a good climb in a good situation. 
The route climbs the stepped-ladder feature, one third of the way down the crag from Mahon Falls, that forms the right-hand boundary of the large wide-vee gully. The left-hand branch of this gully provides a convenient [if somewhat sketchy] descent. 
The route starts from a detached boulder. 
1. 25m. Climb straight up the face of the rib to grassy top. 
2. 35m. Up slab and obvious vee-chimney. Continue up smooth slab to grass ledge. 
3. 22m. Up slab to ledge in a little bay. The finish is up the left hand side. Described originally as ‘a much harder peg crux’ , this ‘last ten feet’ has to be 5b, is insecure, and the gear would not stop you from hitting the ledge and it seems most likely that this section was aided using the peg. The last projecting remains of the peg fell away to the touch in August 2023.

'''ART THOU ELIAS?''' 60m VS 4c 4c

Location: This is the stepped arete opposite ''Jacob’s Ladder'' , across the mouth of the forked gully. It is the next gully right (East) from Dreaming Gully.

1. 20m 4c + 10m to the belay. Start just left of the ‘Plank’ and follow the rough crack which snakes up to a little overhang at the top. Go through the centre of this overhang to a lovely little promontory.

2. 30m Severe, except for one 4c move as described: At the overhanging split nose, move up to the right and make an exciting move onto a small flat foothold just above the overhang on the point of the nose, and continue up the groove.

Scramble up to the terrace and descend via Dreaming Gully (Forked Gully not recommended without prior knowledge).

Pitch 2 G. Fogg, M. Griffin 10/5/2023 on sight. Pitch 1 G. Fogg, M. Griffin, R. Power 16/5/2023 on sight.

'''SUMMER OF ‘69''' 63m HVS 4c 4c 4b

Location: About 60m right from ''Dreaming Gully'' - mid-way between it and ''Forked Gully'' - is a dark wet blind gully with a jammed square block. The route starts at the right hand side of this gully.

1. 28m 4c Climb the rib, heading for the corner above. A considered, cautious approach to the rock is indicated for the rib. At the band of vegetation, follow the crack on the left and up heather to belay below the corner.

2. 25m 4c Good climbing up the corner, with good gear. Belay at the comfortable ledge.

3.10m 4b Climb up and to the right towards the attractive face of the overhanging prow and up this easily but spectacularly to belay above.

Cross the heather isthmus and up the easy-angled slab to the terrace.

G. Fogg, M Griffin 3/9/2023 on sight.

'''CAMEL MEETS NEEDLE''' 80m E2 4c 5c

Location: mid-way between Dreaming Gully and Forked Gully is the blind gully/chimney with the jammed blocks mentioned above. Ten or twelve metres left from this, a scruffy arete slants up to converge at the same point at the top. This arete is an obvious feature and draws the eye as you approach the Falls.

1. 50m 4c Start below the arete, which is undercut at the bottom. Surmount the overhang (gear available below it) to gain the arete. Continue for 50m to the bare rock pillar. Some vegetation must be passed on the journey up. Protection is well-spaced but sufficient.

2. 30m 5c Continue easily and securely to the crux slot. This is awkward and committing: movement is limited by the confines of the slot, and the overlying left wall pushes the climber off balance. Once the move is initiated, there is no going back, as, because it is undercut here, the feet are lost. Move right onto the hanging slab, and more-easily up to the cave. Wriggle through the window to emerge on top. Good belay anchors are to be found just across the neck, looking down into Forked Gully.

If it turns out that you are too well-fed to fit through the window (it is quite small), all is not lost: the rock to the left of the cave is climbable. Likewise, if defeated by the crux slot, a traverse right from above the belay will take you to the main gully groove, which is fairly-easily climbable at this point (this was checked on abseil).

G.Fogg, M. Griffin 11/5/2024 Pitch 1 climbed on sight; pitch 2 checked, and some minimal cleaning done on abseil.

'''A note on the grade:''' The character and challenges of each of the two pitches is so completely different, that coming up with an overall grade is difficult. The technical crux is stiff, but short and well-protected; the first pitch is not technically difficult but might disconcert those unused to such terrain. The grade given attempts to take both these considerations into account.

'''N.B''' For historical reasons, the routes on the cliff are listed from right (SE) to left (NW) '''-''' which is why the route above is the closest to ''Dreaming Gully.''