Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Slieve Rua

2025-07-24T12:43:52Z

Flinner76:

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025. ''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock.

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN BUM''' S 
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''.

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BLOCK OFF''' 10m S

''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''

Post rock fall the right corner of the alcove offers a pleasant climb.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.

[[File:Lets crumble.svg.png|alt=Let's crumble topo|frameless]]

'''LET'S CRUMBLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''

About 20 metres to the right there is a hand crack with a dead bush at three-quarters height. Climb the crack treating the rock either side of it with care.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|l]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

File:Lets crumble.svg.png

2025-07-24T12:42:21Z

Flinner76:

Topo for Let's Crumble

Slieve Rua

2025-07-24T12:30:00Z

Flinner76: Added Block Off and Let's Crumble route descriptions.

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025. ''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock.

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN BUM''' S 
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''.

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BLOCK OFF''' 10m S

''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''

Post rock fall the right corner of the alcove offers a pleasant climb.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.

'''LET'S CRUMBLE''' VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''

About 20 metres to the right there is a hand crack with a dead bush about two-thirds height. Climb the crack treating the rock either side of it with care.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|l]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

Slieve Rua

2025-06-21T21:33:04Z

Flinner76: Added Table For One

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025. ''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock.

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN BUM''' S 
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''.

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.'' Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

File:Table for one.svg.png

2025-06-21T21:28:42Z

Flinner76:

Image and topo for Table for one

Slieve Rua

2025-06-01T22:31:40Z

Flinner76: Added Squeezier to Slieve Rua Upper Buttress

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.

[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]

'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.

File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png

2025-06-01T22:30:27Z

Flinner76:

Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress

Slieve Rua

2025-05-20T21:59:09Z

Flinner76:

This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8 m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.

[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]

'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50 m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

Slieve Rua

2025-05-17T22:33:21Z

Flinner76: /* Lower Buttress */ Addition of three climbs: Tile Style, Flapper, Broken Cuckoo

This hill North of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
The first two climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8 m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.

[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]

[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|900x900px]]

'''TILE STYLE''' S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.

'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025. ''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too.
[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]]
'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.'' About 50 m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack.

[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.'''

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.

File:Broken cuckoo.png

2025-05-17T22:31:50Z

Flinner76:

Broken Cuckoo, Lower Buttress, Slieve Rua

File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png

2025-05-17T22:25:04Z

Flinner76:

West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua

File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png

2025-05-17T22:09:32Z

Flinner76:

Indicating location of Tile Style

Oughtdarra

2024-07-03T21:54:01Z

Flinner76: Typo

==Introduction==

The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

[[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.

==Gale Buttress==
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress there is a small steep outcrop above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.

Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]

'''ISOBAR''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

==Northern Buttress==
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully there are two corners.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan, Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007,'' Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m left of Arnhem.
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
 
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further Right/South there is

==Goat Buttress==
[[File:Goat_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==
[[File:Canyon_buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 11m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 12m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
[[File:Central_Area_Right_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard gojng at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

===Crumlin Wall===
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]

'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' Severe (mild), Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.

'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' Diff, Approx. 8m.

''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022''

Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.

'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' Mod, Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' 20m HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.

'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024. ''Climb the fist crack, merging with the finish of Violent Love.
[[File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg|alt=Let's go crackers 2024|center|thumb|Let's go crackers 2024]]
'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''

'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
[[File:MM.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with rests), 13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

===Beagle Walls===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

15m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI''' S''''' '''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

30m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018. ''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.
[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b

''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.''

Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020. ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=]]

First ascent of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS'''

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]
<big>'''FINNBHEAR**'''</big> <big>HVS 5b </big>''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022. ''Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butters.

'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,
[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.
[[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson 19th May 2024.'' Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, November 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019. ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b ''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S ''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D ''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Darragh on Soft Landing

'''POP''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.

(Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]

Colm on The Reach

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.

Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]

'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''

On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The crack on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

==Cottage Buttress==
A small outcrop 100m East of and above Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean lines to climb on.
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]

'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''PEIG''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.

A pleasant groove at the grade.

'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.

'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Aillnagapple

2024-07-03T21:50:09Z

Flinner76: Added a new route Mine's a T-bone

==Introduction==

<display_map zoom="14"> 53.122192, -9.10135~Aillnagapple </display_map>

An exposed, West facing crag, which appears to dry quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with few sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on the established routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and another lower hill to the north and can be clearly seen as you drive east out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.

[[File:View.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/View.jpg]]

==Approach==

The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes. Part of the walk-in is on what appears to be a hiking trail so there may be a better way to gain access.

On the N67 between ''Kinvara'' and ''Ballyvaughan'' there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called ''Bell Harbour''. From here head towards ''Ballyvaughan'' for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block access.

From here the walk-in is about 30 minutes. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (northward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. We approached this line through the field behind the house through the gate to it's right, but as I warned above there may be a better approach. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until ''Aillnagapple'' comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is ''Singing In The Rain''.

[[File:Topo Aill.jpg|alt=Topo for Aillnagapple|Topo.jpg]] ''Left to right: Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, Mine's a T-bone, Mistaken Identity, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!''

''To the left of Delivery Boy is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.''

'''Delivery Boy''' 12m HS ''S. McGowan (Onsight Solo), 22/08/2010.'' This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.

'''Singing In The Rain''' * 12m VS 4c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 21/08/2010.'' The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.

'''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants''' * 15m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of ''Singing In The Rain''. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.

'''Mine's a T-Bone''' * 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, Colin Tierney, 03/07/2024.'' Start as for Attack of the Orange Space Ants but continue straight up on good holds and protection.

'''Mistaken Identity''' * 15m Diff ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 05/09/2023.'' To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.

'''The Emperors Trousers''' 12m Diff ''S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed), 22/08/2010.'' Start 10m right of ''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants'', just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. ''Possible descent route for the next two routes.''

''The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.''

'''London Bridge''' 10m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.

'''Your Ma!''' ** 10m E2 5c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight), 22/08/2010.'' Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of ''London Bridge''. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.

File:Topo Aill.jpg

2024-07-03T21:48:21Z

Flinner76:

Topo for Aillnagapple

Oughtdarra

2024-06-26T11:31:36Z

Flinner76: Added image of Let's go crackers 2024

==Introduction==

The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

[[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.

==Gale Buttress==
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress there is a small steep outcrop above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.

Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]

'''ISOBAR''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

==Northern Buttress==
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully there are two corners.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan, Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007,'' Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m left of Arnhem.
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
 
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further Right/South there is

==Goat Buttress==
[[File:Goat_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==
[[File:Canyon_buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 11m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 12m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
[[File:Central_Area_Right_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard gojng at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

===Crumlin Wall===
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]

'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' Severe (mild), Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.

'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' Diff, Approx. 8m.

''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022''

Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.

'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' Mod, Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' 20m HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.

'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024. ''Climb the fist crack right, merging with the finish of Violent Love.
[[File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg|alt=Let's go crackers 2024|center|thumb|Let's go crackers 2024]]
'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''

'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
[[File:MM.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with rests), 13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

===Beagle Walls===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

15m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI''' S''''' '''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

30m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018. ''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.
[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b

''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.''

Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020. ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=]]

First ascent of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS'''

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]
<big>'''FINNBHEAR**'''</big> <big>HVS 5b </big>''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022. ''Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butters.

'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,
[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.
[[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson 19th May 2024.'' Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, November 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019. ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b ''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S ''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D ''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Darragh on Soft Landing

'''POP''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.

(Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]

Colm on The Reach

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.

Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]

'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''

On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The crack on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

==Cottage Buttress==
A small outcrop 100m East of and above Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean lines to climb on.
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]

'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''PEIG''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.

A pleasant groove at the grade.

'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.

'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg

2024-06-26T11:29:32Z

Flinner76:

Let's go crackers 2024 route

Oughtdarra

2024-06-26T08:54:51Z

Flinner76: /* Brandon’s Block */ Addition of new route

==Introduction==

The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

[[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.

==Gale Buttress==
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress there is a small steep outcrop above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below.

'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.

'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.

Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack.
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]

'''ISOBAR''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.

There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.

==Northern Buttress==
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully there are two corners.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan, Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007,'' Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m left of Arnhem.
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
 
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further Right/South there is

==Goat Buttress==
[[File:Goat_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==
[[File:Canyon_buttress.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 11m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 12m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
[[File:Central_Area_Right_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard gojng at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

===Crumlin Wall===
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]

'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' Severe (mild), Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete.

'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' Diff, Approx. 8m.

''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022''

Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.

'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' Mod, Approx. 8m

''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022''

For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner.
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' 20m HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.

'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 20m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024. ''Climb the fist crack right, merging with the finish of Violent Love.

'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''

'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..
[[File:MM.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with rests), 13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

===Beagle Walls===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

15m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI''' S''''' '''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.

30m to the South/Right there are..
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018. ''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.
[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b

''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.''

Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020. ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=]]

First ascent of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS'''

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]
<big>'''FINNBHEAR**'''</big> <big>HVS 5b </big>''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022. ''Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butters.

'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,
[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.
[[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]
'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson 19th May 2024.'' Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, November 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO *''' E1 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019. ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b ''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S ''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D ''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]

Darragh on Soft Landing

'''POP''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start.

(Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]

Colm on The Reach

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.

Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]

'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''

On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The crack on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

==Cottage Buttress==
A small outcrop 100m East of and above Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean lines to climb on.
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]

'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''PEIG''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.

A pleasant groove at the grade.

'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.

Climb easily to platform and follow the crsck above.

'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''

Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux).

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Aillnagapple

2023-09-05T21:45:56Z

Flinner76: Climb added

==Introduction==

<display_map zoom="14"> 53.122192, -9.10135~Aillnagapple </display_map>

An exposed, West facing crag, which appears to dry quickly with great views out over Ballyvaughan Bay. The height varies between 10-15m and the rock is generally solid with few sharp holds. The protection has been found to be good on the established routes, with surprisingly good cam placements. It is situated on a saddle between Moneen Mountain and another lower hill to the north and can be clearly seen as you drive east out of Ballyvaughan on the N67, as shown in the picture below.

[[File:View.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/View.jpg]]

==Approach==

The crag is accessed from it's North-Easterly side, not from where it can be seen in the photo above. The access described below is through private land, so please respect the land-owners wishes. Part of the walk-in is on what appears to be a hiking trail so there may be a better way to gain access.

On the N67 between ''Kinvara'' and ''Ballyvaughan'' there is a sharp bend in the road at a place called ''Bell Harbour''. From here head towards ''Ballyvaughan'' for approximately 1.5km until there is a lane on the right opposite two abandoned buildings (a house and another building). Park down this lane, being careful not to block access.

From here the walk-in is about 30 minutes. The line of the walk can be seem from the lane as a green strip, in between the scree, heading diagonally rightward (northward) up the hill behind the abandoned house. We approached this line through the field behind the house through the gate to it's right, but as I warned above there may be a better approach. Once you are on the green strip, follow it and a steep, rough trail until you come across a cairn. From here the angle eases and you pass two wooden posts. Follow the mountain around to the left passing a low slabby buttress on your left. Pass over a dry stone wall just after this. From here continue around to the left until ''Aillnagapple'' comes into view on your left. The first obvious line with the crack running up the middle of an otherwise blank looking slab is ''Singing In The Rain''.

[[File:Topo.jpg|Topo.jpg|alt=]] ''Left to right: Delivery Boy, Singing In The Rain, Attack Of The Orange Space Ants, The Emperors Trousers, London Bridge, Your Ma!''

''To the left of Delivery Boy is a steep gully with grass, the rock just left of this gully has been used as a descent for all of the routes.''

'''Delivery Boy''' 12m HS ''S. McGowan (Onsight Solo) 22/08/2010'' This takes the blank looking groove/corner on the left, near the top of the main wall. Slightly contrived when it steps right avoiding the easier ground left of the corner. Start on easy ground with a grassy/overgrown corner between you and the main face to your right. From here climb up until you can step right back onto the main face. Work your way up the corner and a crack out right with lots of bomber gear until an awkward move leads to the finishing holds. The groove is a lot less blank than it looks.

'''Singing In The Rain''' * 12m VS 4c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight) 21/08/2010'' The obvious line of the crag. Start below the crack that splits the otherwise blank looking slab on the main face. Continue up this using smears, jams, slopers and crimps until the crack disappears near the top. From here go straight up through the horizontal breaks to reach the top.

'''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants''' * 15m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight) 22/08/2010'' There is a pillar resting against the crag to the right of ''Singing In The Rain''. Start below and to the right of this pillar. Climb the right hand face of the pillar until you can reach a clean wide crack on the wall above. Start up this then step left to make use of the other crack to your left. Continue up to a ledge with some clumps of grass (beware of orange space ants). From here you can move slightly left and gain the face above before finishing directly.

'''Mistaken Identity''' * 15m Diff ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn 05/09/2023'' To the right of the pillar of Attack of the Orange Space Ants lies another smaller pillar. Climb up this and the wall above.

'''The Emperors Trousers''' 12m Diff ''S. McGowan (Onsight Down-Soloed) 22/08/2010'' Start 10m right of ''Attack Of The Orange Space Ants'', just before the base of the climbs moves up the slope and the routes get shorter. Climb straight up the vague arete to a grassy ledge. From here go slightly right before finishing up the face and crack above. There were two loose blocks in the second half which should probably be removed but they weren't an immediate danger. ''Possible descent route for the next two routes.''

''The next two routes are on a shorter wall that is facing more northerly than the rest of the crag.''

'''London Bridge''' 10m S ''A. Grennan, S. McGowan (Onsight) 22/08/2010'' So called because of the amount of loose rock that was found on the first ascent, but has since been cleaned. On the shorter wall there is a crack running almost from bottom to top. Start just right of this and climb up to gain possibly the biggest jug known to man. From here move up the crack and the face right of it past a loose block (that doesn't want to move) at half height. You can then gain a grassy ledge and the final crack above.

'''Your Ma!''' ** 10m E2 5c ''S. McGowan, A. Grennan (Onsight) 22/08/2010'' Short but enjoyable. There's more holds than there first appears, but spotting them all on lead can add to the interest. Start below a scoop in the wall to the right of ''London Bridge''. Climb the small corner to reach a series of flakes. Place some good gear behind these before making some interesting moves to the first break. Place a good large cam before another amusing move leads to the next juggy break. Mantle the grass ledge and continue up through some rock and grass to reach the anchors. Small people may hate me for this one.

Slieve Rua

2023-07-22T21:30:23Z

Flinner76: Added three routes

This hill North of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gap in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point).'' 4m's right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.

[[File:Sl_lower_middle.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of MANDATORY QUARANTINE.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of LOCKED IN to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' S

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Curious george section.svg.png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack. Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of Trust the fairies.

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between Fairy Flakes and Airy Fairy.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.

[[File:Cat fight cat call.png|alt=Photo of routes Cat Fight and Cat Call|frameless|465x465px]]

'''CAT FIGHT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow crack immediately to right of Pfizer Driver. Continue up the rightward trending widening crack to the top.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2033.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of BQC climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.

[[File:Cracked actor Hamlet.png|alt=Cracked Actor & Hamlet|frameless|603x603px]]

'''CRACKED ACTOR''' 10m VD ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' A few metres to the right of The Great Floor Food Adventure, there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of Cracked Actor.

File:Curious george section.svg.png

2023-07-22T21:28:47Z

Flinner76:

Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.

Irish Climbing Wiki

2023-06-27T21:33:32Z

Flinner76: Added link to Moneen

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Fanore]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Moneen]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]]

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

[[Coolrakan Quarry]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]

[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]

[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Great Sugar Loaf]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

__FORCETOC__
__INDEX__
__NEWSECTIONLINK__

Moneen

2023-06-27T21:30:30Z

Flinner76: Added map

==Introduction==
<display_map zoom="14" type="satellite"> 53.112336, -9.094191~Moneen </display_map>

Access as for [[Scailp Na Seisri, Co. Clare|Scailp Na Seisri]]. At the junction where the path leads down into the Scailp, continue up the hill and trend in a north westerly direction. After 15 minutes, a small cliff band is visible. Crossing a stone wall, follow the cliff to the left until a large alcove is reached with an obvious right facing corner crack. This is Corner Piece With Yellow Icing.

[[File:Moneen left.png|alt=Photos of routes on the left end of Moneen crag|frameless|728x728px]]

'''The Birthday Party''' 8m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follows the crack on the left edge of the crag.

'''47 or 48?''' 8m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follow the parallel crack to the right of The Birthday Party.

'''Breach of Contract''' 10m HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, May 18 2023. ''Move up face and crack to the left of the large hanging block. Treat the rock with care.

[[File:Moneen alcove climbs.png|alt=Route photos of climbs in the alcove section of the crag|frameless|709x709px]]

'''Corner Piece With Yellow Icing''' 12m HS 4b ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Climb the right-facing corner in the large alcove.

'''School Run''' 12m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follow broken rock and crack to the right of Corner Piece With Yellow Icing.

'''It's Nothing Special He Says''' 10m VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, May 18 2023. ''Climb the left-facing corner in the large alcove.

[[File:Moneen right end of crag.png|alt=Route photo of climbs at the right end of the crag|frameless|709x709px]]

'''Ghosteen''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''To the right of the alcove, climb the bulge to get to easier ground above.

'''Jubilee Street''' 8m VD ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the right facing corner.

'''Skeleton Tree''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the crack.

'''Carnage''' 8m VD ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the shallow square-cut groove.

'''Distant Sky''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Takes the crack 2 metres right of the square-cut groove.

'''Push the Sky Away''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the left trending wide crack at the right end of the crag.

Moneen

2023-06-27T21:26:12Z

Flinner76: Added Moneen crag

==Introduction==

Access as for [[Scailp Na Seisri, Co. Clare|Scailp Na Seisri]]. At the junction where the path leads down into the Scailp, continue up the hill and trend in a north westerly direction. After 15 minutes, a small cliff band is visible. Crossing a stone wall, follow the cliff to the left until a large alcove is reached with an obvious right facing corner crack. This is Corner Piece With Yellow Icing.

[[File:Moneen left.png|alt=Photos of routes on the left end of Moneen crag|frameless|728x728px]]

'''The Birthday Party''' 8m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follows the crack on the left edge of the crag.

'''47 or 48?''' 8m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follow the parallel crack to the right of The Birthday Party.

'''Breach of Contract''' 10m HS 4a ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, May 18 2023. ''Move up face and crack to the left of the large hanging block. Treat the rock with care.

[[File:Moneen alcove climbs.png|alt=Route photos of climbs in the alcove section of the crag|frameless|709x709px]]

'''Corner Piece With Yellow Icing''' 12m HS 4b ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Climb the right-facing corner in the large alcove.

'''School Run''' 12m S ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, April 21 2023. ''Follow broken rock and crack to the right of Corner Piece With Yellow Icing.

'''It's Nothing Special He Says''' 10m VD ''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, May 18 2023. ''Climb the left-facing corner in the large alcove.

[[File:Moneen right end of crag.png|alt=Route photo of climbs at the right end of the crag|frameless|709x709px]]

'''Ghosteen''' 10m S ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''To the right of the alcove, climb the bulge to get to easier ground above.

'''Jubilee Street''' 8m VD ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the right facing corner.

'''Skeleton Tree''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the crack.

'''Carnage''' 8m VD ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the shallow square-cut groove.

'''Distant Sky''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Takes the crack 2 metres right of the square-cut groove.

'''Push the Sky Away''' 8m D ''Cormac Flynn, June 13 2023. ''Follow the left trending wide crack at the right end of the crag.

File:Moneen right end of crag.png

2023-06-27T21:24:25Z

Flinner76:

Route photo of climbs on the right end of the crag

File:Moneen alcove climbs.png

2023-06-27T21:20:56Z

Flinner76:

Climbs in the large alcove at the Moneen crag

File:Moneen alcove.png

2023-06-27T21:17:56Z

Flinner76:

Route photos in alcove

File:Moneen left.png

2023-06-27T21:14:34Z

Flinner76:

Photo of routes on the left end of the crag

Slieve Rua

2023-06-22T23:32:26Z

Flinner76: Added two routes and some route photos.

This hill North of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gap in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point).'' 4m's right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.

[[File:Sl_lower_middle.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of MANDATORY QUARANTINE.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of LOCKED IN to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' S

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of Trust the fairies.

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between Fairy Flakes and Airy Fairy.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.

[[File:Cat fight cat call.png|alt=Photo of routes Cat Fight and Cat Call|frameless|465x465px]]

'''CAT FIGHT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow crack immediately to right of Pfizer Driver. Continue up the rightward trending widening crack to the top.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2033.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of BQC climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.

[[File:Cracked actor Hamlet.png|alt=Cracked Actor & Hamlet|frameless|603x603px]]

'''CRACKED ACTOR''' 10m VD ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' A few metres to the right of The Great Floor Food Adventure, there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of Cracked Actor.

File:Listen to the elves.png

2023-06-22T23:31:40Z

Flinner76:

Photo of route Listen to the Elves

File:Cat fight cat call.png

2023-06-22T23:29:04Z

Flinner76:

Photo of routes Cat Fight and Cat Call

File:Cracked actor Hamlet.png

2023-06-22T23:24:24Z

Flinner76:

Photo of routes Cracked Actor and Hamlet

Slieve Rua

2023-06-22T23:15:21Z

Flinner76: Three routes added.

This hill North of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gap in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point).'' 4m's right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.

[[File:Sl_lower_middle.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of MANDATORY QUARANTINE.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of LOCKED IN to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' S

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of Trust the fairies.

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between Fairy Flakes and Airy Fairy.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.

'''CAT FIGHT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow crack immediately to right of Pfizer Driver. Continue up the rightward trending widening crack to the top.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2033.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of BQC climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.

Slieve Rua

2023-05-29T22:35:12Z

Flinner76: Added image of What's love got to do with it

File:Whats love got to do with it.png

2023-05-29T22:31:55Z

Flinner76:

Image of What's love got to do with it and Winter Lockdown

Slieve Rua

2023-05-26T21:16:47Z

Flinner76:

Slieve Rua

2023-05-26T21:14:58Z

Flinner76: Added a new route