http://wiki.climbing.ie/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=FHGJDKGHIrish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]2026-04-22T23:35:17ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.1http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Ballykeefe_Quarry&diff=3997Ballykeefe Quarry2023-11-10T10:22:01Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>==Introduction==<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173710 6~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173710_6~2.jpg]]<br />
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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny<br />
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Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.<br />
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The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.<br />
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Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.<br />
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Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.<br />
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All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.<br />
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The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.<br />
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Because it is south facing and sheltered, the <br />
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.<br />
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'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''<br />
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As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."<br />
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The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.<br />
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'''UPDATE 2023:'''<br />
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As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.<br />
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'''**PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.**''' <br />
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If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.<br />
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'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS''' <br />
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By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors. <br />
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==Overview, Parking and Maps==<br />
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There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.<br />
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[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 103040 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_103040_7.jpg]]<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104436 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104436_7.jpg]]<br />
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==Entrance Wall==<br />
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.<br />
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[[File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|600px|File:Polish 20200322 213728046.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200322_213728046.jpg]]<br />
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'''Sylvester''' 9m VD<br>''G. Fogg. May '99''<br>Up corner to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.<br />
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'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Grod''' 9m VD <br>''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan''<br>Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish<br />
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'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99''<br>2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.<br />
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'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon '80's''<br>Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.<br />
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'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.''<br>Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200322 182229 8~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_182229_8~2.jpg]]<br />
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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's''<br>Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face<br />
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'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.<br />
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'''Lolos''' grade??<br>''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable??<br>''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.<br />
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'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish<br />
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'''Rugrats''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.<br />
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'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''<br />
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'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected<br />
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'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''<br />
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'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)<br />
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The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.<br />
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'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.<br />
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[[File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|400px|File:Polish 20200323 233624468.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200323_233624468.jpg]]<br />
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'''First Corner''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>Follow arête to top.<br />
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==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall. <br />
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[[File:Left Pigs Wall-1.jpg|alt=|544x544px|File:Polish 20200323 224327100.jpg]]<br />
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'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99<br>''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.<br />
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'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's<br>''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.<br />
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'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m <br>''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000<br>''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.<br />
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'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's<br>''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.<br />
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==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''<br />
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From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack. <br />
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The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.<br />
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The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.<br />
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Traverse''' ''<br>G. Fogg. 31/5/2000<br>''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.<br />
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' ''<br>G. Fogg. 1/10/2000<br>''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.<br />
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[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m<br>''G Fogg''<br>First bolted route from left on main wall.<br />
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'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m<br>''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.<br />
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'''Pigeon''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000''<br>Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.<br />
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'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+<br>''H Fogg G Fogg 2003<br>''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.<br />
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'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m <br>''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.<br />
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'''Animal''' F6b 15m<br>''B Dunne, N Mahon'' <br>This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.<br />
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'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m<br>''G Fogg'' <br>Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.<br />
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'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.<br />
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'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.<br />
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==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.<br />
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This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.<br />
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The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.<br />
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'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave.<br>''M.Manning. 80's.''<br>Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.<br />
Direct Finish 5m<br>A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]<br />
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'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.''<br>Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.<br />
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'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)''<br>Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.<br />
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Direct start 6a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)''<br>It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.<br />
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[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below<br />
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'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.''<br>About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.<br />
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'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's''<br>2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.<br />
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'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b<br>''G Fogg solo''<br>1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).<br />
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'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b<br>The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).<br />
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'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's''<br>Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.<br />
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'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.<br />
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'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b<br>''26/9/99.''<br>Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.<br />
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'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.''<br>1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.<br />
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'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.''<br>2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts<br />
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'''Clover''' 7m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.<br />
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'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a<br>1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.<br />
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'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a<br>A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.<br />
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'''Disc''' 7m 6a+<br>Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.<br />
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'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c<br>Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.<br />
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'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b<br>An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.<br />
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'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Left of bush, past small overhang.<br />
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'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.<br />
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'''Ascent Route''' 14m D<br>''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.''<br>Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.<br />
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==Above Main Terrace==<br />
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.<br />
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Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs on this picture<br />
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'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S<br>''N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.<br />
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'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a<br>''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.<br />
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'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.<br />
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'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.''<br>Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.<br />
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'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.''<br>Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.<br />
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'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.''<br>A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.<br />
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'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.<br />
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'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.<br />
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'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.<br />
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'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a<br>''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.''<br>1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.<br />
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'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's''<br>Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.''<br>About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.<br />
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'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD<br>''T. Brophy. 80's''<br>To top to the left of Widowmaker.<br />
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'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b<br>''T. Brophy. 90's''<br>Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.<br />
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==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.<br />
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'''Stone Pony''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg H Fogg 2003<br>''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge. <br />
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'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's''<br>A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.<br />
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'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.''<br>Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).<br />
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'''Open Book''' 20m F6a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.''<br>Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.<br />
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'''The Prow''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.''<br>Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.<br />
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'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's''<br>The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)<br />
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'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02''<br>From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.<br />
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'''Gecko''' 10m F7a<br>''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.''<br>''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.''<br>This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts). <br />
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.<br />
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'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.''<br>This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.<br />
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'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.<br />
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'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.<br />
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==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.<br />
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For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.<br />
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'''Stinger''' 17m 6b<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.<br />
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'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.<br />
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'''Apache Mountain<br>'''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage.<br>''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.<br />
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'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5<br>''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.''<br>3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.<br />
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'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.<br />
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'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.''<br>1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.<br />
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'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+<br>''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011<br>''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace. <br />
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'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.<br />
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'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.<br />
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'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.<br />
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'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.''<br>2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.<br />
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'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.''<br>3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.<br />
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'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.<br />
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'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.<br />
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==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.''<br>Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.<br />
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'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.''<br>Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.<br />
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'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.''<br>Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).<br />
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==Fear Breaga Buttress==<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.<br />
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'''Central Crack''' 6m VD<br>''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.''<br>Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.<br />
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'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.<br />
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==Four-Inch Holes==<br />
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''<br />
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'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.''<br>Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.<br />
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'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.''<br>Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.<br />
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'''Jenga''' 5m S<br>''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.''<br>Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.<br />
==Potential Crag==<br />
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs. <br />
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Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.) <br />
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[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Ballykeefe_Quarry&diff=3996Ballykeefe Quarry2023-11-06T09:19:17Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>==Introduction==<br />
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Google Maps: Ballykeeffe Amphitheatre, Ballykeefe Hill, Kilmangah, Co. Kilkenny<br />
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Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.<br />
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The rock is a crinoidal packstone/wackestone Carboniferous limestone. The rock itself is very strong and has been well-cleaned by the pioneers of the routes; nevertheless, having been fractured by blasting, there is no guarantee that rain and frost might not have loosened formerly-sound holds. Exercise appropriate caution and judgement. Likewise whilst any bolts or pegs which have been placed have been so put with the best care, it behoves each new climber to make their own assessment of the soundness of these.<br />
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Bolts have only been placed on routes that are otherwise unprotectable. They have been placed as sparingly as possible, consistent with safety. Where natural protection is available, no bolts have been placed – including those parts of bolted routes where natural gear can be placed.<br />
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Any climbs bolted by locals were cleaned and inspected and climbed on top-rope prior to bolting. It is important to understand that the bolts so placed were never intended to be fallen on but rather as possible salvation in case things went wrong. It should not be assumed by any visiting climber that a bolt may be fallen on with impunity. Bolts, even if once sound, might fail due to corrosion or fatigue or other factors.<br />
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All bolts and pegs have been placed by the pioneers for their own use only. Mention of bolts in route descriptions is not an invitation to use them. Anyone else making use of these bolts or pegs does so entirely at their own risk.<br />
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The rock gets polished much more easily than most crags. Concern has been raised about the start of some climbs (in particular the Pigs Wall) becoming polished due to groups setting up top ropes on routes that are too hard, spending a long time at the bottom, and polishing the holds.<br />
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Because it is south facing and sheltered, the <br />
quarry is always considerably warmer than the general environment, especially from Autumn to Spring, when the sun is low in the sky. In addition, the rock dries incredibly quickly, as soon as it is no longer actually raining.<br />
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'<nowiki/>'''New Bolts''''<br />
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As posted in a [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4324.0/topicseen.html climbing.ie post (retrieved 2011-06-17)] : "it was agreed to increase the bolting on 3 of the less challenging routes to facilitate leading by less experienced climbers. This work was recently carried out by and John F Kennedy & John G O’Dwyer of ''Mid-Tipp Hillwalkers'' on routes where it is not possible to place traditional protection."<br />
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The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.<br />
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'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS''' <br />
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By now (2021) most of the bolts have been in place for twenty years or more. If they were ever reliable - which can never be certain - they may not now be regarded as such. It is advised that anyone wishing to climb these routes does so on top-rope. Likewise the lower-offs cannot be trusted and trees should be used as top anchors. <br />
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==Overview, Parking and Maps==<br />
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There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.<br />
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[[File:Untitledmap.png|600px|File:Untitledmap.png|link=Special:FilePath/Untitledmap.png]]<br />
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==Entrance Wall==<br />
Entrance wall runs along the road/path to where the quarry opens out. The main feature is the vee-shaped gully of Oggy. The climbing in this section is all trad climbing and offers some of the easier climbing in the quarry. There are loads of conveniently located trees at the top of the climbs for anchors and the walk down takes about a minute via a path that come out to the left of the wall. The grading is quite easy compared to some places like the Gap of Dunloe and is comparable to somewhere like Ballyryan in the Burren.<br />
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'''Sylvester''' 9m VD<br>''G. Fogg. May '99''<br>Up corner to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Aristotle''' 9m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1m right of Sylvester. Up centre of upper wall. Good protection.<br />
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'''Bill and Ben''' 9m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. May '99.''<br>1.5m right of Sylvester. Follow crack from ground-level. Go straight up or take the right-hand fork at top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Grod''' 9m VD <br>''T.Sommerville and A.O'Sullivan''<br>Bad protection on easy climbing, good protection on harder climbing. Start in the middle between Bill and Oggy, go up the broken face, there is a trapped block about 1/3 the way up you can wrap a sling around. Continue up the broken section of rock until you reach the flat face. Small cam is good here. Continue up, topping out just left of the gorse bush using the alternate finish for Bill and Ben as this routes finish<br />
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'''Plato''' 10m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. May '99''<br>2m left of Oggy. Go straight up the broken bulge and go straight to the top. Protection from small wires and small tricam in horizontal breaks.<br />
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'''Steering Wheel''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon '80's''<br>Up the bulge on the left side of Oggy. Tricam in borehole at top of bulge, small wires above.<br />
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'''Oggy and the Cockroaches''' 10m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. May '99.''<br>Bridge up the vee to the ledge and then shuffle step up your way up to the crux. Layback to get through the crux. After that its relatively easy climbing to the top. Large and Medium Hex protection but a little run-out at the crux as the crack opens out too wide for most standard gear. Good protection overall.<br />
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'''GTX''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's''<br>Up the arête to the right side of Oggy and finish up flat face<br />
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'''Ford Wall''' 8m E1 5b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up the flat face on left side of vee. No protection. Crux near the bottom but don't slip. Finish up grassy slope.<br />
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'''Lolos''' grade??<br>''H Fogg 2005 Unrepeated. Repeatable??<br>''Up the centre of Ford Wall, without either edge. 1bolt.<br />
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'''Cadet Crack''' 10m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon. '80's.''<br>Up through mini-chimney, make your way to the right and straight up to finish<br />
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'''Rugrats''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Crack at back of diedre. Trend right to finish. Good protection.<br />
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'''Between Rugrats and Jim Crack, there is a selection of possibilities at VD.'''<br />
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'''Jim Crack''' 13m VD<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>15m right of Rugrats. Follow crack to top. Very well protected<br />
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'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''<br />
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'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)<br />
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The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.<br />
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'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''First Corner''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>Follow arête to top.<br />
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==Left Pigs Wall '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall. <br />
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'''Cliffhanger''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 15/4/99<br>''Scramble easily up the left hand side of the slope then follow up under, and find protection in the overhanging crack, beware of loose rock. N.B. ‘Loose rock’ fell down, and more was knocked down in 2020. Route probably doesn’t exist - and wasn’t worth doing anyway. Topo is wrong, it’s the line on the left.<br />
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'''Kestrel Crack''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''M. Manning, T. Brophy. 80's<br>''Above ramp. Climb crack to the top (crux at 2/3 height). Protection is good but is a little tricky to arrange.<br />
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'''The Eiger Sanction''' F6a 15m <br>''G. Fogg. 5/8/2000<br>''Between the two cracks. Go straight up past three bolts. Crux at top.<br />
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'''Kevin's Corner''' 15m HVS 5a<br>''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's<br>''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.<br />
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==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
'''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''<br />
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From Rosehip Crack on, there is a terrace. The Bay of Pigs is the bay to the left of Rosehip Crack. <br />
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The right-hand side of the bay, where the rock rises vertically from bottom to top, has some of the hardest and most sustained climbing in the quarry and has been known since early days as The Pigs.<br />
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The left-hand side of the Bay has fewer climbs but has three naturally-protected crack climbs. At ground-level, is the slightly-overhanging blank face of Street Ball Wall, so-called from the fading graffito it bears. This offers some strenuous bouldering.<br />
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Traverse''' ''<br>G. Fogg. 31/5/2000<br>''Start with both hands on arête at left, between the horizontal scars, feet on wall only. Hand-traverse to corner.<br />
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Bouldering''<br>'''''Street Ball Mantelshelf''' ''<br>G. Fogg. 1/10/2000<br>''Mantelshelf the wall just left of its highest point.<br />
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[[File:The Bay of Pigs 1.jpg|alt=|600x600px|File:Polish 20200324 011149460.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Kevin's Corner Direct''' F6a+ 15m<br>''G Fogg''<br>First bolted route from left on main wall.<br />
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'''Miss Piggy''' F6b+ 15m<br>''M Daly, G Fogg 2000.''Start at the second drill mark 1.5m past Kevins corner. from the good hold on the borehole after the second bolt, crimp slightly left on poor holds then up. easier above.<br />
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'''Pigeon''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg S Gallwey 2000''<br>Start just left of the 4th. drill-mark and follow the bolts (three). The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Above the 3rd. bolt, move right into niche and enjoy easier climbing to the top.<br />
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'''A Cone Ochone''' 6b+<br>''H Fogg G Fogg 2003<br>''An eliminate - like all the routes in the quarry. No hands or feet outside the defined line for the tick.From the first bolt of ''Cats'', go straight up the narrow (0.5m) pilaster between the borehole on the left and the arete on the right. Up the centre of the slab below the overhang [no palming on left] and finish straight up.<br />
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'''Cats''' F6b+ 15m <br>''M Daly, G Fogg 17/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 5th. drill-mark (left-slanting) and follow the four bolts to the top. There is a cruxy section below the second bolt and again at the fourth bolt where tired arms have to drag the climber past a bulge.<br />
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'''Animal''' F6b 15m<br>''B Dunne, N Mahon'' <br>This is the classic hard route in the quarry,dating from the first phase of development. Originally protected by just three bolts, Start at the 7th drill-mark on the prominent bulge and go straight up. Use is often made of a rattly 'loose tooth' near the top – it hasn't come out yet – Brian. Sustained.<br />
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'''The Last Pig''' F6b+ 15m<br>''G Fogg'' <br>Start at the 8th. drill-mark. Climb delicately up to 4m then follow drillmark to right. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small Tricam gives protection near the top.<br />
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'''Makin Whoopee''' F6b 15m<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 27/5/2000.''<br>Start at the 10th. drill-mark (half-way up ramp). There are two bolts at the first clip, the right-hand one is in a dubious flake and ought not to be used. The crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Well protected.<br />
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'''Aardvaark''' F6a 15m<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.<br />
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==Main Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.<br />
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This area offers a wide selections of relatively short harder grade trad routes and interesting bolted sport climbs.<br />
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The Ascent Route is not a climb but a scramble up onto the terrace and is located on the far right where the terrace ends, it is one way to access the terrace where all these climbs end. Note also that there are multiple rings to absail off, one on the far right of the terrace near enough the top of the ascent route, one over to the left of the terrace and a stuck drill bit on the far left, which can be used as an anchor.<br />
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'''Rosehip Crack''' 8m VS 5a Much harder since loss of block above the cave.<br>''M.Manning. 80's.''<br>Follow the left-trending crack easily to a cave at 6m. A bolt on the left from Aardvark can be used to protect the next (crux) move up and right to the terrace.<br />
Direct Finish 5m<br>A satisfying finish to this climb goes straight up from the belay cave and through the slit between jutting noses at top. Good protection.<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|400px|File:IMG 20200323 151533 7.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_151533_7.jpg]]<br />
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'''Easy Street''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne 29/12/2000.''<br>Follow the first drill-mark 1.3m right of Rosehip Crack, assiduously avoiding the large flake on the left at 2.3m. The start is tricky and surmounting the bulge can be awkward. No protection. Thread belay at cave.<br />
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'''Undercut Alley''' 7m 5c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo) 26/8/99. (After top-rope practice)''<br>Start at the 2nd drill-mark from Rosehip Crack, 1m right of Easy Street. Follow the drill-mark from ground-level using a succession of undercut holds. Then move delicately right to meet the drill-mark 0.6m to the right at 3m. No protection. Thread belay at cave.<br />
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Direct start 6a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26.8.99 (after top-rope practice)''<br>It is possible to eliminate the second undercut.<br />
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[[File:Ballykeefe27.jpg|alt=|700x700px|File:Polish 20200324 005205715.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to add in more climbs to the picture, here is a start anyway. Also need a picture of Sally Crack and Ascent Route below<br />
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'''The Pope's Nose''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. 15/9/01.''<br>About 3m right of Rosehip Crack. Over obvious snout to mid-section.<br />
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'''The Vatican''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. '80's''<br>2m right of The Pope's Nose. Follow drill-mark past overhanging sharp flake.<br />
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'''Ichabod''' 7m F6b<br>''G Fogg solo''<br>1.6m right of The Vatican. Follow the borehole straight up the centre, above the pale scar. Well-protected (two bolts).<br />
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'''Paradise Crack''' 7m HS 4b<br>The obvious crack on the left side of The Slab (piton).<br />
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'''Slab Direct''' 7m HS 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N.Mahon. 80's''<br>Climb the centre of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Slab RHS''' 7m HS 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Climb the right-hand side of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Shadrach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>The first drill-mark to the right of the slab. No protection.<br />
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'''Meshach''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The second drill-mark almost 1m right of Shadrach. No protection.<br />
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'''Abednego''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/9/99.''<br>The third drill-mark, about 0.5m right of Meshach. No protection.<br />
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'''Dented Ego''' 7m HS 4b<br>''26/9/99.''<br>Climb to the white corner at 3m and up.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has an additional bolt for a total of 2 bolts. No bolts were placed on the top section of the route as this can be adequately protected by traditional gear placement.<br />
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'''Nailbreaker''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B.Dunne. 80's.''<br>1m right of Dented Ego. Climb to dark corner (bolt) then up.<br />
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'''Bishop's Nose''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's.''<br>2m right of Nailbreaker. Climb the nose at 3m and up. No protection.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Previously had no protection, Now has 3 bolts<br />
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'''Clover''' 7m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Corner 1m right of Bishop's Nose. No protection.<br />
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'''The Pooka''' 7m 6a<br>1m left of Lady Jane. Climb the blank section between the drill-mark on left and the thin crack on right using side-pulls (poor wire in crack). Mantelshelf the ledge above and easily up.<br />
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'''Lady Jane''' 7m HVS 5a<br>A quarry classic. Follow the cleaned crack (wire and piton protection). Although short, this is an interesting route which can be climbed by different techniques and may be found to be more difficult than it appears.<br />
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'''Disc''' 7m 6a+<br>Start at ground level just right of Lady Jane. Go straight up past two bolts.<br />
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'''Push Your Granny''' 7m HS 4c<br>Just left of Spreadeagle. Follow the right-trending drill-mark. Two bolts.<br />
[http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Ballykeefe_Quarry#New_Bolts New Bolts:] Now has 2 additional bolts for a total of 4 bolts.<br />
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'''Spreadeagle''' 7m 6b<br>An early test-piece. Start directly below drill-mark in shallow scoop. Work your way up by bridging. (3 bolts). Well protected. This route combines nicely with Widowmaker.<br />
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'''Cut the Tree''' 7m HS 4b<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Left of bush, past small overhang.<br />
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'''Sally Crack''' 20m S 4a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>2m right of Cut the Tree. Past bush at 3m to mid-section and continue to top if desired. Plenty of protection but beware of loose rock.<br />
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'''Ascent Route''' 14m D<br>''T. Brophy, M. Manning, 80's.''<br>Over clay-parting at ground-level and up ramp, then up left behind detached boulder. Traverse left to mid-section, making airy step-across on way.<br />
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==Above Main Terrace==<br />
This is the section of rock above Main Terrace. You can get to it via absail from above (dont leave the path blocked) or from the ground via the ascent scramble from the right side. On the terrace itself, there is a ring bolted into the ground on the right side you can absail to the ground from and a stuck drill bit way on the left. This area represents some of the harder trad routes in the quarry.<br />
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Unaccountably, this section of vertical rock had been largely overlooked until, with this guide in preparation, it seemed obvious that it should be cleaned and climbed for the sake of completeness. The cleaning took place over Halloween 2000 and the removal of surprising quantities of loose rock revealed a rather attractive series of climbs from Severe to VS and with good natural protection. Very useful in this regard are small tricams or hexes for the cleaned clay-partings between the upper beds.<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 110021 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_110021_1.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs on this picture<br />
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'''Ascent Route Direct''' 7m S<br>''N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Up the drill mark in the corner at the ascent route, then to left behind willow bush and follow drill mark to top.<br />
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'''Feddan''' 7m VS 5a<br>''N. Eager, G. Fogg. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Ascent Route Direct using bouldery moves to ledge, then follow the drill mark on right to top. Tricam and nut protection.<br />
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'''Palatine Street''' 7m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Follow the drill mark almost 1m right of Feddan to ledge and continue straight up the obvious shallow chimney above. Good protection.<br />
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'''The Whangie''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 4/11/2000.''<br>Up the drill mark 1m right of Palatine Street then follow the drill mark on right to top.Good protection.<br />
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'''Melanophy's''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 14/11/2000.''<br>Follow the left-slanting crack and drill mark 2.5m right of The Whangie to obvious bay. Bridge up this to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Visions of Johanna''' 7m HS 4b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/11/2000.''<br>Start at the crack-line and drill mark about 1m right of Melanophy's. Follow this and trend left to finish at the distinct vee-notch at the top.Excellent protection.<br />
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'''Ezekiel Saw a Wheel''' 7m VS 5a<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 4/11/2000.''<br>A boulder problem start and an easier finish. Start between and keep within the drill marks of Visions of Johanna and Ain't it just like the Night, below the sloping flake crack. Delicately surmount this and finish up the drill mark directly above. Be ready for the loose but captive block just below the top.<br />
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'''Ain't it just like the Night''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark 1m right of Visions of Johanna, below overhanging flake at 2.5m and finish up the drill mark to the right. The first protection is in the clay parting at 2/3 height. There is a loose but captive block just below the top.<br />
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'''Louise''' 7m VS 4c<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start at the drill mark about 1.5m right of Ain't it just like the Night and about 1.5m left of the abseil ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.<br />
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'''Key Chain''' 7m HS 4b<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 14/11/2000.''<br>Start above the ring and finish up the drill mark to the right.<br />
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'''Small talk at the wall''' 7m S 4a<br>''G.Fogg. (Solo). 23/11/2000.''<br>1m to the right of the ring. Finish up the broken corner.<br />
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'''Jane's Granny''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's''<br>Almost 3m right of the ring, past two small overhangs to top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Jane's Aunt''' 7m S 4a<br>''G. Fogg, F. O'Connell. '98.''<br>About 1m right of Jane's Granny. Up groove at top. Good protection.<br />
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'''Monkey's Tail''' 7m S 4a<br>''B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>4m right of Jane's Granny. To ledge and then just right of vertical brown stain to top.<br />
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'''Sally Crack Upper''' 7m VD<br>''T. Brophy. 80's''<br>To top to the left of Widowmaker.<br />
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'''Widowmaker''' 7m HVS 5b<br>''T. Brophy. 90's''<br>Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.<br />
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==Long Traverse Ledge '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.<br />
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'''Stone Pony''' 6b+<br>''G Fogg H Fogg 2003<br>''Just right of the ascent route. Up the middle of the blank section. No bridging [obviously]. 2 bolts. Anchor at ledge. <br />
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'''Painted Lady''' 20m HVS 5a<br>''B. Dunne, H. McNamara. 80's''<br>A most enjoyable early classic. Start past the ramp to an obvious crack at paint splash and follow this to mid-section (excellent protection). From here, continue straight to top, past two bolts.<br />
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'''Après Mars''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg. 8/10/2000.''<br>Start at the moist closed crack almost 2m right of corner of ramp to Painted Lady. Go straight up and follow the protruding drill-mark on left, past three bolts. Then up slope, past borehole (Tricam) trending right towards the white scar and follow left-leaning drill-marks to top. (2 bolts + nut in horizontal break).<br />
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'''Open Book''' 20m F6a<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 4/3/2001.''<br>Gain the scoop at 2.5m. Bridge up this (two bolts), up past the flake (nut placement) and delicately over the rounded section to mid-way. Follow Après Mars or Knock Airport to top.<br />
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'''The Prow''' 20m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, C. Murphy. 14/10/2000.''<br>Start below the protruding drill-mark and go straight up to mid-way. (3 bolts). To reach top, follow line of Knock Airport.<br />
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'''Knock Airport''' 20m F6a+<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's''<br>The groove to the right of The Prow. Climb groove (2 bolts) and over nose at 8m (sling over bar) to mid-way. Then straight to top, going straight over overhang (bolt)<br />
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'''Indian Summer''' 8m F6b<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg, B. Dunne. 22/9/02''<br>From the ledge above the first leg of Knock Airport to the top. Two bolts. A route to the top from Gecko or an alternative finish to Knock Airport.<br />
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'''Gecko''' 10m F7a<br>''G. Fogg, S.Gallwey.15/7/2000.''<br>''Reclimbed after loss of block, G.Fogg, S.Gallwey. 24/9/2000.''<br>This impressively blank piece of rock provides the quarry test piece. Start in the shallow vee-shaped bay below an over-jutting flat face. The original route involved a beautiful delicate balancy rock-over (the 'gecko' move) onto the face from left at the overhang. However, since the loss of a large chunk at the bottom of the overhang (thanks a lot Nigel), the approach is now, more thuggishly, straight up. Once established on the face, and with the top bolt clipped, the target is a jug high on the arête (To get full tick stick to the face and continue to chain). With this (first) good hold, you are up. Well protected (3 bolts). <br />
Chain for abseil. Recently the gate was removed by someone.<br />
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[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]<br />
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'''Komodo''' 24m 6b+/6c<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 23/02/2001.''<br>This route is a worthy neighbour to Gecko. It takes the blunt arête at the right of the Gecko slab and follows the sharp arête above to the Long ledge. Start just left of the wet stripe. A bolt protects the awkward problem of passing the clay wayboard. With the second bolt clipped and the good hand holds above, make the committing move to easier ground and the third bolt. Move up towards the well-defined arête and bolt. A lay away gains good holds at the top of the arête; mantelshelf these. Finish comfortably up the bay (piton) below the trapped block.<br />
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'''Soap Gut''' 24m HS<br>''B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>2.5m right of Gecko. Over wet bulge, then wide crack at left of the large wedged-shaped block.From the corner at the point of this, traverse left, crossing Komodo, to follow the easy ramp to Long ledge. Move right and climb the bay as for Komodo to the top.<br />
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'''White Elephant Direct''' 24m 6a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.<br />
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==Upper Terrace '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.<br />
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For belay anchors, there are some in-situ pegs (test for yourself) as well as some eye-bolts cemented into boreholes at the base of the back wall. Easiest access to this terrace is at the eastern end.<br />
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[[File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|700px|File:Polish 20200324 030732899.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Polish_20200324_030732899.jpg]]<br />
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'''Stinger''' 17m 6b<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Hardest at the top (hence name). Start as for no. 57 to ledge (bolt). Then up past three bolts. Two pitons provide belay anchors.<br />
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'''Mt. Rushmore''' 17m 5+<br>''M. Daly, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start as for White Elephant Direct From ledge, follow three bolts 2m right of Stinger. A pleasant excursion.<br />
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'''Apache Mountain<br>'''A highball boulder problem with a bolt, just left of the start of ''The Brendan Voyage.<br>''Up the centre of the blank section on thin layaways.<br />
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'''The Brendan Voyage''' 17m 5<br>''M. Daly, B. Proctar. 15/7/2000.''<br>3m right of Mt. Rushmore. From ground, go easily up the broken ramp, past the clay parting and easily up to clip the first bolt at 8m. Continue past two more bolts.<br />
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'''Purging Flax''' 5m HS 4c<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>2m right of the start of The Brendan Voyage. Up the brown stain past overhang to ledge.<br />
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'''Empire State''' 17m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 5/6/2000.''<br>1.5m left of the ash tree at ground level. Follow the drill-mark past the 'Ballykeefe hold' at 2.5m and bolt to ledge. Piton at base of pilaster.Up this and delicately past bolt to terrace.<br />
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'''Safe Space''' 20m 6b+<br>''H.Hennessy, M.Walsh 2/2011<br>''The borehole between blackstonia and broken stairs, stay between the boreholes at the third bolt, eye bolt belated at back of terrace. <br />
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'''Blackstonia''' 15m 6b<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Move delicately up drill-mark past bolt to easier section trending right to base (nut placement) of pale scar and right-leaning drill-mark (bolt) to terrace.<br />
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'''The Escalator''' 7m HVS 5a<br>''G. Fogg (Solo). 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of ash tree, at start of Broken Stairs. Make a rising traverse on small holds to intersect Blackstonia at ledge.<br />
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'''Broken Stairs''' 21m VS 4c<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo) 26/6/2000.''<br>3.5m right of the ash tree. Follow broken corner rightwards past two bolts and nut protection in crack to first ledge. Continue up short wall past another bolt to the second ledge. Finish up the centre of the blank wall (protection in horizontal crack and in pocket near top) to terrace. Eyebolt belay at back of terrace.<br />
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'''The Hen's Nest''' 15m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 12/8/2000.''<br>2m right of Broken Stairs, below neat round niche at 5m. Climb straight up to niche (2 bolts) and out of it again over bulge (crux) to ledge. Finish to terrace up top of Broken Stairs.<br />
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'''Blood on the Tracks''' 16m 6b+<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 3/3/2001.''<br>3.5m right of The Hen's Nest. A well-defined buttress about 2.5m wide has a drill-mark at its centre which starts about 2.5m above the ground and leads upwards to end in a peak at the top. From ground level at left side of ramp, climb up and follow the central drill-mark to a good blocky hold at 5m. If inspiration or resolve fails, the saddle-horn on the left-hand drill-mark provides an easy escape but the real challenge (and crux of the climb) is to finish directly up the centre (nose to the borehole). The second tier is a repeat performance. To the left is relatively easy but the climb goes straight up (second crux). Protection is from three bolts. A ringbolt at the back of the terrace provides a belay anchor.<br />
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'''Zig and Zag''' 15m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>Follow jagged edge on left of smooth wall 2.3m right of Blood on the Tracks, then straight to mid way. Route uncertain at the top.<br />
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'''Evening Press Reissue''' 20m HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.<br />
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==Gromwell Bay '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Twinkletoes''' 20m 6a<br>''G. Fogg, H. Fogg. 22/8/2001.''<br>Start at the blank section of rock 2m right of the left-slanting edge of Evening Press Reissue (not part of this climb!). Quality moves on thin holds leads up to the first clip. Thence, under the protruding arête and to the left past the second bolt to the ledge. From here, trend left through the diedre past peg to easy ground.<br />
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'''The Teaser''' 20m 6b+<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 5/8/2001.''<br>Start in the middle of the bay. Easyish moves lead to the first clip, followed by the trickier crux section. From the ledge, move up and slightly left, past a poor peg, over broken rock to easy ground.<br />
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'''Gromwell''' 20m 6b<br>''G. Fogg, N. Eager. 3/8/2001.''<br>Start just right of the centre of the bay. Tricky moves lead to the first bolt. Continue up to the ledge and easily up the central gully to the bottom of the brown weathered wall. Climb the middle of this (natural gear).<br />
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==Fear Breaga Buttress==<br />
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[[File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 174603 6.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_174603_6.jpg]]<br />
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Feel free to mark climbs<br />
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'''Fear Breaga Ascent Route''' 30m D<br>''G. Fogg. '99.''<br>Start at the left of the buttress and go up a stepped arête to 4m, then weave up and rightwards to pass behind the upstanding 'Fear Breaga' boulder to the right and then bridge up behind the detached block to gain the top. This route is little more than a scramble but needs careful navigation on the way down.<br />
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'''Central Crack''' 6m VD<br>''P. Melanophy, C.Flynn. 19/4/2001.''<br>Climb the crack at the back of the diedre and continue up straight over the bulge. Belay at the Fear Breaga pillar.<br />
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'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.<br />
<br />
==Four-Inch Holes==<br />
'''To the right of the Fear Breaga ascent-route, just below the top, is a section of vertical rock which catches the evening sun when the rest of the quarry is in shadow. The climbs are short but worthwhile.'''<br />
<br />
'''Tom Joad''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, P. Melanophy. 27/1/2001.''<br>Start on the scree-slope at the projecting drill-mark 5m to the right of the corner formed by the huge detached boulder at the top of the Fear Breaga Ascent Route. Follow the drill-mark to 2.5m and then move left to the crack at the right edge of the flake (protection). Move onto the flake and continue delicately to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Preacher Casey''' 5m VS<br>''G. Fogg, B. Dunne. 4/2/2001.''<br>Start at the projecting drill-mark 4m right of Fear Breaga Ascent Route, above a boulder in the scree-slope and follow the drill-mark up before moving left under the overhang.A camming-device in the vertical slot at 2m gives some protection for the balancy moves just above it. Find more protection under the overhang and then move out to clip the bolt and finish up the middle of the face above.<br />
<br />
'''Jenga''' 5m S<br>''P. Melanophy, G. Fogg. 27/1/20.''<br>Climb the broken corner 5m right of Central Crack. Good protection but beware of loose rock.<br />
==Potential Crag==<br />
There is potential for a number of easy to moderate trad routes here. Currently the area is very dirty and there is loose rock everywhere but if someone were to make a project out of cleaning it there is the potential for a number of nice climbs. <br />
<br />
Don’t get your hopes up. I was all over this and cleaned it around 2000. Found nothing. (G.F.) <br />
<br />
[[File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200322 173523 2~2.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200322_173523_2~2.jpg]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Knockdrinna&diff=3989Knockdrinna2023-10-16T08:47:20Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Knockdrinna.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br>'''Access restricted: During the bird nesting season, beginning of March until the end of July, climbers are kindly asked not to enter the quarry. Mountaineering Ireland is currently engaging with Kilkenny County Council to agree on access to the quarry going forward. Mountaineering Ireland thanks all climbers for their cooperation and further information will be provided in due course.'''<br />
<br />
Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67<br />
<br />
The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.<br />
<br>The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.<br />
<br />
[http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=52.499199&amp;lon=-7.2395895&amp;zoom=18&amp;layers=M OpenStreetMap]<br />
<br />
The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way. <br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Knockdrinna topo 2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''1. Salt Peanuts''' F7a+ 7m<br><br />
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts. <br><br />
It looks easy but it's not. <br><br />
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004<br />
<br />
'''2. Seek and Destroy''' F6a 6m<br><br />
Arete.Two bolts.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 21/2/2010<br />
<br />
'''3. Tide's Out''' 4c/5a 6m <br><br />
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath. <br><br />
N. Eager solo 2003<br />
<br />
'''4. West Fork''' F6a+ 6m <br><br />
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts <br><br />
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004<br />
<br />
'''5. Boppit Extreme''' F6b+ 6m <br><br />
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts <br><br />
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right)<br><br />
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004<br />
<br />
'''5(a). breakeven''' F6b+ 6m <br><br />
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts.<br><br />
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012<br />
<br />
'''6. Twayblade''' F6a 6m<br><br />
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts.<br><br />
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003<br />
<br />
'''unknown''' F6a 12m<br />
<br />
The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face. (Hanger bolts).<br />
<br />
'''Slack in Da System 7a 15m'''<br />
<br />
The line of glue ins immediately left of 6a crack line. Make awkward mantels up to under cling rail rising leftwards. Climb series of undercut crimps on this up to the break. Crux is a throw into the break and up to the chains.<br />
<br />
T.O'Connell 2022<br />
<br />
'''stretch armstrong''' 7b 14m<br />
<br />
Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 3/10/2021<br />
<br />
'''rising tide''' 7b+<br />
<br />
The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.<br />
<br><br />
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022<br />
<br />
'''. Bolt bandits''' F7b 14m<br><br />
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half. <br />
<br><br />
H Hennessy 26/7/2020<br />
<br />
'''7. Hugh's Route''' F7b+ 15m<br><br />
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.<br />
<br>H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010<br />
<br />
'''closed project'''<br />
<br />
the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted<br />
<br />
'''8. Omaha Beach''' F6c+ 15m<br><br />
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all].<br><br />
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004<br />
<br />
'''9. Draighean Dubh''' F7c 12m '''(route no longer there)'''<br><br />
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall.<br><br />
Desperate.<br><br />
H.Fogg 2/2009<br />
<br />
'''10. Fist Full of Steel''' F7a 8m '''(route no longer there)'''<br><br />
The left hand crack.<br> Three bolts<br />
H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008<br />
<br />
'''11. La Mussara beg''' F6a+ 15m <br><br />
G.Fogg 2/2009<br />
<br />
'''12. Slimline''' F5+ 15m<br><br />
A bit chossy. Four bolts. <br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 2/2009 <br />
<br />
'''13. Otherside''' F6c 15m<br><br />
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts<br />
<br />
'''14. Gates of Eden''' F6b 15m<br><br />
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top.<br> four bolts<br />
H.Hennessy 24/12/2008 <br />
<br />
''' Wasteland''' F6a+ 12m<br><br />
climb the arete on its left hand side.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts<br />
<br />
'''15. Intoxicated''' F6a 12m<br><br />
a bit loose near the top.<br><br />
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts<br />
<br />
'''The optimist's door''' 6c 12m<br />
<br />
Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.<br />
<br />
D. Dillon 6/2020<br />
<br />
'''forgotten flake''' 6b+ 12m <br />
<br />
The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 6/2020</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Knockdrinna&diff=3988Knockdrinna2023-10-16T08:45:42Z<p>FHGJDKGH: new route</p>
<hr />
<div>[[File:Knockdrinna.jpg|200px]]<br />
<br />
<br>'''Access restricted: During the bird nesting season, beginning of March until the end of July, climbers are kindly asked not to enter the quarry. Mountaineering Ireland is currently engaging with Kilkenny County Council to agree on access to the quarry going forward. Mountaineering Ireland thanks all climbers for their cooperation and further information will be provided in due course.'''<br />
<br />
Location 515 392 Discovery Series no. 67<br />
<br />
The easiest way to find this is to drive from Knocktopher towards Kilkenny along the main road. Take the first left turn into L8247 and continue for 1.94km until the quarry appears beside the road on your right. The quarry faces west and catches the evening sun but takes some time to dry out following wet weather.<br />
<br>The M9 now passes very close to the quarry, perhaps startling surprised climbers with thoughts of unclimbed rock. Approaching along this, exit at Knocktopher and proceed as above.<br />
<br />
[http://www.openstreetmap.org/?lat=52.499199&amp;lon=-7.2395895&amp;zoom=18&amp;layers=M OpenStreetMap]<br />
<br />
The rock is a crinoidal limestone of the Ballysteen formation with some clay content. Long-exposed surfaces tend to exfoliate in a character-building way. <br><br />
<br><br />
[[File:Knockdrinna topo 2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''1. Salt Peanuts''' F7a+ 7m<br><br />
Follow crack to lower off. 4 bolts. <br><br />
It looks easy but it's not. <br><br />
H.Fogg, G.Fogg 8/6/2004<br />
<br />
'''2. Seek and Destroy''' F6a 6m<br><br />
Arete.Two bolts.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 21/2/2010<br />
<br />
'''3. Tide's Out''' 4c/5a 6m <br><br />
From the arete, move left and up. Seriousness depends on the `state of the tide' of gravel underneath. <br><br />
N. Eager solo 2003<br />
<br />
'''4. West Fork''' F6a+ 6m <br><br />
Right fork of crack. 2 bolts <br><br />
G. Fogg, H. Fogg 26.6.2004<br />
<br />
'''5. Boppit Extreme''' F6b+ 6m <br><br />
Left fork of Y-crack 2 bolts <br><br />
(Cheat-blocks might be needed to reach the starting holds - crimp left and sidepull right)<br><br />
H.Fogg, G . Fogg 26.6.2004<br />
<br />
'''5(a). breakeven''' F6b+ 6m <br><br />
a bouldery route just right of twayblade. 2 bolts.<br><br />
H. Hennessy 25/2/2012<br />
<br />
'''6. Twayblade''' F6a 6m<br><br />
Flake crack to lower off. 2 bolts.<br><br />
G.Fogg onsight on trad gear. 2003<br />
<br />
'''unknown''' F6a 12m<br />
<br />
The crack left of the roof on the right of the main face.<br />
<br />
'''Slack in Da System 7a 15m'''<br />
<br />
The next line of glue ins immediately left of 6a crack line. Make awkward mantels up to under cling rail rising leftwards. Climb series of undercut crimps on this up to the break. Crux is a throw into the break and up to the chains.<br />
<br />
T.O'Connell 2022<br />
<br />
'''stretch armstrong''' 7b 14m<br />
<br />
Start four meters right of bolt bandits, follow ledges up to an undercut, a big move leads into sustained climbing to the lower off.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 3/10/2021<br />
<br />
'''rising tide''' 7b+<br />
<br />
The line between bolt bandits and stretch armstrong. Shared lower off with bolt bandits.<br />
<br><br />
H. Hennessy 21/5/2022<br />
<br />
'''. Bolt bandits''' F7b 14m<br><br />
The line right of "Hugh's route" Climbs the seam that starts at half height. Flakey first half excellent second half. <br />
<br><br />
H Hennessy 26/7/2020<br />
<br />
'''7. Hugh's Route''' F7b+ 15m<br><br />
Crimpy technical climbing up the main blank face. It's much harder in the sun. Very good.<br />
<br>H Fogg [onsight] 2/7/2010<br />
<br />
'''closed project'''<br />
<br />
the line right of omaha beach. Not fully bolted<br />
<br />
'''8. Omaha Beach''' F6c+ 15m<br><br />
Bridge up the striking corner. A hard struggle all the way. 7 bolts [you'll be glad of them all].<br><br />
G.Fogg, H.Fogg 12/6/2004<br />
<br />
'''9. Draighean Dubh''' F7c 12m '''(route no longer there)'''<br><br />
The right hand crack on the very slightly overhanging wall.<br><br />
Desperate.<br><br />
H.Fogg 2/2009<br />
<br />
'''10. Fist Full of Steel''' F7a 8m '''(route no longer there)'''<br><br />
The left hand crack.<br> Three bolts<br />
H.Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 20/12/2008<br />
<br />
'''11. La Mussara beg''' F6a+ 15m <br><br />
G.Fogg 2/2009<br />
<br />
'''12. Slimline''' F5+ 15m<br><br />
A bit chossy. Four bolts. <br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 2/2009 <br />
<br />
'''13. Otherside''' F6c 15m<br><br />
H.Hennessy (toproped proir to ascent) 2/2009 Three bolts<br />
<br />
'''14. Gates of Eden''' F6b 15m<br><br />
Nice climbing up the arete. Crux at top.<br> four bolts<br />
H.Hennessy 24/12/2008 <br />
<br />
''' Wasteland''' F6a+ 12m<br><br />
climb the arete on its left hand side.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 22/1/2011 Three bolts<br />
<br />
'''15. Intoxicated''' F6a 12m<br><br />
a bit loose near the top.<br><br />
H. Hennessy (toproped prior to ascent) 27/3/2010 Four bolts<br />
<br />
'''The optimist's door''' 6c 12m<br />
<br />
Left of "Intoxicated" the first line of glue in bolts.<br />
<br />
D. Dillon 6/2020<br />
<br />
'''forgotten flake''' 6b+ 12m <br />
<br />
The line of glue in bolts left of "the optimist's door". Shared lower off.<br />
<br />
H. Hennessy 6/2020</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3940Garron Point2023-09-12T06:29:47Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
The left hand line below was first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as a highball slab. It has not been equipped as a beginner sport route.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Deep Blue Sea<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|thumb|slab|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Trad'''<br />
<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3939Glenmalure2023-09-11T13:39:21Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
<br />
TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
<br />
====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
<br />
NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br>Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br>P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
<br />
CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br>P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Rock got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
<br />
'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE LE BUET====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
<br />
'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
<br />
WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
<br />
EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
<br />
TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
<br />
HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
<br />
PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
<br />
'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
<br />
ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
<br />
SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
<br />
[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
<br />
ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
<br />
The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
<br />
ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
<br />
SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
<br />
ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
<br />
'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
<br />
ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
<br />
==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
<br />
[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3938Garron Point2023-09-11T13:22:29Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|thumb|slab|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Trad'''<br />
<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3937Garron Point2023-09-11T13:21:51Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|thumb|slab|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Trad'''<br />
<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3936Garron Point2023-09-11T13:21:22Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|thumb|slab|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Trad<br />
<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3935Garron Point2023-09-11T13:20:53Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|left|thumb|slab]]<br />
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====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3934Garron Point2023-09-11T13:20:30Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|thumb|alt=|left]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|left|thumb|slab]]<br />
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<br /><br />
====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3933Garron Point2023-09-11T13:19:17Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|none|thumb]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|left|thumb|slab]]<br />
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====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3932Garron Point2023-09-11T13:19:03Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|none|thumb]]<br />
<br />
'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
<br />
6b - straight up bolts<br />
<br />
6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
<br />
6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
<br />
'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
<br />
7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
<br />
7a- arête <br />
<br />
'''Main wall''' <br />
<br />
8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
<br />
7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
<br />
7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
<br />
8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
<br />
'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
6c+ - left side <br />
<br />
6c - right side <br />
<br />
'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
<br />
2x 5s<br />
<br />
'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
<br />
These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
<br />
4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
<br />
6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|left|thumb|slab]]<br />
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====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
<br />
Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
<br />
Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
<br />
'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
<br />
'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
<br />
'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
<br />
'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
<br />
'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
<br />
'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
<br />
'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
<br />
'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
<br />
'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
<br />
'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
<br />
'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3931Garron Point2023-09-11T13:18:45Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
<hr />
<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
<br />
The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
<br />
AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
<br />
=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
<br />
The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
<br />
Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|none|thumb]]<br />
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'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
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6b - straight up bolts<br />
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6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
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6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
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'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
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7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
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7a- arête <br />
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'''Main wall''' <br />
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8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
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7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
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7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
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8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
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'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
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6c+ - left side <br />
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6c - right side <br />
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'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
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2x 5s<br />
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'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
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These two lines were first recorded by John McCabe in 2018 as highballs. They have now been equipped as short sport routes to give beginner climbers more options to climb at the crag.<br />
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4c - Left hand line (Aidan’s slab)<br />
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6b - Right hand variation (Climb before you crawl)<br />
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[[File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg|left|thumb|slab]]<br />
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====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
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Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
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Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
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'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
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'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
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'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
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'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
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'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
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'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
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'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
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'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
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'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
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'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
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'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
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'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
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'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
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'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
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'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
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'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:WhatsApp_Image_2023-09-11_at_14.13.16.jpg&diff=3930File:WhatsApp Image 2023-09-11 at 14.13.16.jpg2023-09-11T13:17:35Z<p>FHGJDKGH: </p>
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<div>slab</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3918Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:58:07Z<p>FHGJDKGH: e</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
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There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
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====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
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'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
<br />
THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
<br />
LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
<br />
ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
<br />
BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
<br />
'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
<br />
WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
<br />
LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
<br />
'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
<br />
ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
<br />
==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3917Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:57:50Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
<br />
TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
<br />
====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
<br />
NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
<br />
Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
<br />
The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
<br />
THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
<br />
'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|Crag Topo|alt=|frameless]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
<br />
ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
<br />
SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3916Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:57:07Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
<br />
====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
<br />
====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
<br />
Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
<br />
'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
<br />
====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|thumb|Crag Topo]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
<br />
[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
<br />
FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
<br />
THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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<br />
NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
<br />
LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
<br />
THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
<br />
PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
<br />
Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
<br />
THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
<br />
GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
<br />
'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
<br />
FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
<br />
REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
<br />
ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
<br />
[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
<br />
'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
<br />
PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
<br />
BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
<br />
GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
<br />
GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
<br />
RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
<br />
PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
<br />
'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
<br />
WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
<br />
LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
<br />
'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
<br />
WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
<br />
EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
<br />
TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
<br />
HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
<br />
'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
<br />
PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
<br />
====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
<br />
'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
<br />
ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
<br />
SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
<br />
[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
<br />
ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
<br />
The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
<br />
ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
<br />
SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
<br />
ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
<br />
GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
<br />
'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
<br />
FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
<br />
'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
<br />
ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
<br />
==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
<br />
[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3915Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:56:51Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
<br />
TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
<br />
====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
<br />
NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
<br />
CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
<br />
====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
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'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|thumb|Crag Topo]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3914Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:56:29Z<p>FHGJDKGH: edit</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
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There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
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====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
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'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|thumb|Crag Topo]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3913Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:56:09Z<p>FHGJDKGH: minor edit</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
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====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
<br />
'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====GLENMALURE POLE CRAG====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|thumb|Crag Topo]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Glenmalure&diff=3912Glenmalure2023-09-07T09:55:43Z<p>FHGJDKGH: addition</p>
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
<br />
There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
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====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
<br />
'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
<br />
'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
<br />
==== GLENMALURE POLE CRAG ====<br />
Immediately above the car park on the Northern slope of the valley is a small sport crag with 3 completed lines. The rock is very compact granite/schist with no natural protection. 3 routes have been equipped. The right most line has not been climbed and is open to anyone who wants to try.<br />
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Location: 52°59'21.7"N 6°24'26.5"W<br />
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https://goo.gl/maps/8ugvbBqTAEDQPNb46<br />
[[File:GlenmalureSport.jpg|left|thumb|Crag Topo]]<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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<div>[http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]<br />
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There are three minor climbing crags in Glenmalure and another two in Baravore Valley above Glenmalure. Although the climbing interest in this area is rather limited the wild remote setting adds an ingredient that should reward the visiting climber's day.<br />
The valley lies to the south of Glendalough, beyond a ridge of mountains and is reached by following the Military Road south of Laragh across an upland pass (The Three Crosses) to Drumgoff cross-roads (T 107 909) north of the bridge over the Avonbeg River. Turn right into Glenmalure at this cross.<br />
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TODO add a map of the various locations here.<br />
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====DWYER'S ROCK====<br />
This crag is about 5 minutes walk west of the Glenmalure Hotel to the right of the road to Baravore. From the road it is almost completely hidden from view by the surrounding woodland but it can be clearly seen from the old barracks just across the valley. The crag is a narrow high outcrop of tough schistose rock. It is very steep with a large overhang at mid-height. Though having a rather vegetated appearance the rock is generally sound and the two routes that have been cleaned and recorded offer some good climbing in exposed situations.<br />
N.B. The cliff is a peregrine nesting site which puts climbing here out of bounds from April to July.<br />
The following two routes take the main front face of the crag, starting either side of a large nest.<br />
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NECK TIE 37m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start midway up a vegetated ramp to the left of the nest site. Climb up and left to the niche below the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jugs and step right to the base of a leftward-trending crack. Follow this crack for about 12m and then finish directly up the wall.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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CAUGHT IN THE ACT * 42m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start just to the right of the nest below a V-notch in the roof. Climb with difficulty onto the obvious nose. Move steeply right to the base of leftward-trending slabs. Follow the slabs to a perch immediately beneath the roof. Climb the overhang by moving horizontally left and then up on good holds and jams in a very exposed position. Step right and then continue, trending leftwards, up the face to the top.<br><br />
P. Breen, T . O Brien, May 1989.<br />
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====GLENMALURE NORTH CRAG / POLE ROCK====<br />
The crag is on the northern side of Glenmalure (Ref. T073 941) approximately 4 km up the valley from Drumgoff. <br />
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Leave the road just beyond a tree-enclosed house opposite cowsheds about 300m south east of the car-park at Baravore Ford; the scramble up over the boulder-strewn, bracken-infested slope takes about 30 minutes. It makes a lot of sense to visit this crag before the bracken rears its ugly head from about mid-June. After that date anyone going there without a machete risks becoming suicidal. The best approach might be a diagonal from the carpark at the ford.<br />
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The buttress is more than 50m high but is broken at about mid-height by an offset terrace. Much of the face is subject to winter seepage which accounts for the black moss which somewhat disfigures the appearance of the crag from the climber's perspective. A few of the routes are quite dirty but in general the climbing is of an enjoyable if hardly inspirational nature with proficiency in steep slab work being the main skill required. The routes are described from left to right as one faces the buttress. An important reference point is the large holly tree at the bottom centre. The routes starting from the base of the buttress are first described and then those from the offset terrace above.<br />
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Pole Roack got its name from a pole fixed there to support a ropeway to bring turf cut on the upper slopes into the valley below.<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 245]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 1]'''<br />
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BEE LINE 17m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start to the left of the left edge of the main face and climb directly up between two faint crack-lines to two giant blocks, one above the other. Finish up over the blocks and belay a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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DAEDALUS* 20m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the main face, below an arête. Climb the arête on its right side. The crux is a high step up to a smear at half-height. Finish up over the blocks above as for Bee-line<br><br />
J. Lyons, July 1989.<br />
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HIDDEN AGENDA * 21m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This thin, eliminate-type climb takes a direct line up the face to the right of Daedalus and just left of a black mossy streak. Start about 1 - 2m right of Daedalus at a crack.<br><br />
Climb left of this crack to a horizontal break. Continue upwards with hard moves around a circular area of white rock. Pass blocks with care and also the larger block above. Protection is sparse; "Friends" will be needed.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 4 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 2]'''<br />
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EVENING STAR 22m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start just a little to the right of Hidden Agenda and follow a direct line between two parallel black mossy streaks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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CIÚNAS * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Follows a steep line just left of centre on the buttress. Start from about 4-5m left of the holly tree. Climb up to a short crack-line and to a horizontal crack and then slant up right to an overhang which is surmounted near its right side. Continue up the right-trending, juggy crack until another crack leads out left. Follow this to a smooth lichenous scoop. Move up this to below a steep bulge and climb this poorly protected section to finish on a grassy ledge.<br><br />
S.R. Young, B. Davies, 5/9/1975.<br />
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BLAST OFF 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
In a very dirty state, it could hardly be climbed without prior cleaning. The first pitch is not well protected. Start just left of the holly tree near the centre of the buttress.<br><br />
1. 27m Climb the steep slab on good holds to a small ledge beneath an overhang and move diagonally left along a short, open, greasy crack to the base of the wall. Climb the wall going up and right on small widely-spaced holds, following the rough line of a shallow vegetated groove to reach a wide, grassy ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge.<br><br />
2, 25m Climb the slabs at the back of the ledge diagonally right via quartzy seams to reach the base of a crack at 8m and climb this up the centre of the face, finishing on small holds towards the top. Belay well back.<br><br />
J. Hastings, D. McNulty, February 1977.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 3]'''<br />
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THE WILD WIND BLOWS * 25m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start behind the holly tree moving in from the left and follow a more or less direct line to the top, at first up the right side of the raised narrow section of slab to a vegetated ledge and then up a crack and slab directly to the top, finishing to the right of the crux of Ciúnas.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 14/10/1989.<br />
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NO LINGERING ** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start immediately right of the holly tree. Climb the slab to reach blocky rock to the left of the overhang. Traverse right beneath this for several metres to the base of an arête forming the left wall of the obvious chimney. Move up and gain the slab above on the left side of the exposed arête. Make delicate balance moves up along the arête towards easier ground and the finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 1/7/1989.<br />
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LEFTIESWELL * 27m S (4a)<br><br />
Start on the right side of the buttress, right of the holly tree, under and slightly left of the obvious chimney at half-height.<br><br />
1. 18m Climb the slab, trending right to the base of the chimney. Climb the right wall of the chimney to a grassy terrace and belay.<br><br />
2. 9m Crux pitch. Go straight up from the top of the chimney which narrows to a crack with two awkward moves. Belay well back.<br><br />
D. Walsh, P. Donnelly, D. Ó Murchú, 4/10/1974.<br />
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'''Download topos of the next 3 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North 4]'''<br />
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'''Also download topos of the next 5 routes at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Glenmalure North full]'''<br />
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ANTICYCLONE 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Leftieswell about 8m right of the holly tree and at a right-trending quartz crack. <br><br />
1. 15m Follow the thin knobby quartz line up to the ledge, continue up left of loose blocks to another ledge and then go diagonally right to finish at the belay ledge.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb out left and go up the slab to the Leftieswell chimney; finish up just right of the chimney via the slab. Struggle through furze to belay well back on the terrace.<br><br />
S.R. Young, J. Leonard, 14/8/1977.<br />
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ALIENS WAITING ROOM * 22m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This eliminate type slab climb, which has an unprotected crux, starts 2m to the left of the Cyclone Corner crack below a steep narrow slab going up to the left side of an overhang with a holly tree.<br><br />
Climb the delicate slab (avoiding any recourse to the crack) working gradually left towards the top to a small pedestal foothold on the left side of the slab above a heather ledge. Edge back right and pull up on the rounded top edge of the slab to the break just left of the overhang. Continue up the easier slab to the left of the overhang to the terrace.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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CYCLONE CORNER 52m VS (4c,4a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress at a partly vegetated crack which runs up to an overhang with a holly tree. Nature is reclaiming this route. <br><br />
1. 22m Climb the crack to the overhang. Move out slightly left onto the steep slab and around the overhang (crux) to a stance. Climb the corner above, which is awkward to start. Belay at the terrace.<br><br />
2. 30m Start in the middle of the wall (just right of Stone Maiden) about 2m left of the obvious crack. Climb up on small edges passing a diagonal crack to just below a horizontal break. Move out left to a heathery stance. Move up and diagonally right along a crack for about 6m and gain<br><br />
a slabby edge. Follow this to the top<br><br />
J. Leonard, P. Sloane, P. O Connor, August 1977.<br />
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The following two climbs start off the higher left-hand level of the offset grassy terrace.<br />
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PROCTOR'S SLAB 23m S (3c)<br><br />
Gives a good finish to Leftieswell. From the top of Leftieswell climb the centre of the obvious slab on good hidden holds to the top.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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THE VALLEY WILD 23m HS (4a/b)<br><br />
Start at the right-hand end of the higher terrace at an area of light-coloured quartzy rock. Go up a short curving crack and the short horizontal joints above it to reach the base of a crack. Climb the smooth slab to the left of the crack (crux)to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons 23/8/1992.<br />
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'''The next four routes start off the lower right-hand grassy terrace. This terrace can be reached by scrambling up the right-hand side of the buttress.'''<br />
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GRANISTER 16m S (4a)<br><br />
Start at the left side of the terrace below a dirty corner. Climb up just to the right of a right-trending quartzy crack, to the small overhang. Go straight up over the overhang and belay on a block.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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STONE MAIDEN 30m S (4a)<br><br />
Start just to the right of Granister. Surmount the slight bulge (thread runner above it), move right and climb up just left of the narrow chimney over short horizontal joints until just level with the top of Granister. Finish up the tiers of rock and vegetation to the right of the arête.<br><br />
B. Proctor, S.R. Young, 11/2/1975.<br />
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SLEEP-WALKER 14m VD<br><br />
Takes the long crack 4m to the right of Stone Maiden which leads up into the narrow chimney on the left side of the small overhang. Bridge up the crack and chimney to the top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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TOE THE LINE 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just right of Sleep-Walker and climb up a small ledge and the smooth wall to beneath the right-hand side of the overhang. Up past the break and work out right for 2m on small footholds to gain a short wide crack. Up this to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, 23/8/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY/ BENLEAGH==== <br />
'''(also known as Fraughan Rock Glen or The Three Valleys or Bolinaskea - Buaile na Sciatha ) '''<br />
is approached by crossing the ford/bridge on the Avonbeg at Baravore turning towards the hostel and after 100m heading up the obvious spur to the left of the old mine building. On reaching the forest road follow it in a generally southwest to west direction until the scree slopes on the right-hand side of the valley come into sight above the forest, more or less directly ahead. Follow a slightly descending section of the track to a sharp left-hand bend,marked on the left by a large boulder, and continue for 100m to the foot of the falling ground. Turn in to the right and skirt some scraggy trees to a moraine which leads up through the forest to steep grass and heather slopes. Above can be seen a prominent gully to the left of The Rock of Baravore -a vegetated wall of rock forming the rim of the valley. This is known to climbers as Great Gully and is reached from the car park in less than one hour.<br><br />
The setting is wild and impressive with some excellent climbing. The Gully is 250m higher than Glendalough crag and so is more prone to cold winds. It shows its magnificence best on a fine day while in dull weather it can provide preparation for the Alps. Unstable or loose blocks are possible, due to the thin, serrated nature of the ridge, and care should always be exercised.<br />
Active erosion in the higher reaches of the gully makes descent difficult and unpleasant, particularly in rock boots. An abseil chain has been placed at the top of Great Gully Route. If this is to your satisfaction it will just be possible to reach the gully floor by using two 50m ropes.<br />
The climbs are found on the right-hand side when facing up the Gully and are described from the bottom upwards.<br />
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'''See the location of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Routes 22 & 45 and location of crag]'''<br />
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'''Download topos of the crag at [http://www.irishmountaineeringclub.org/wicklowguide Page 251]'''<br />
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FLEETING SUMMER 32m E1 (5b)<br><br />
This route starts at a toe of rock at the bottom right side of the gully, 2m to the right of the Great Gully Route corner.<br><br />
Gain the narrow slab delicately from the left and climb up to a small overhang which is taken on its front face. Move left and up the short grassy corner to a heather ledge beneath an undercut hanging groove. Gain the groove with difficulty and reach up to a horizontal break. Traverse out left onto the steep slab and climb up steeply to reach a narrow foot-ledge at the break. Continue up the centre of the slab and easier blocks beyond to gain a good thread and flake belay on the right side of the ridge. To escape, scramble down to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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GREAT GULLY RIDGE ** 140m HS (4a,3c,4b,4a)<br><br />
This climb takes a line up the rock ridge which bounds the right-hand side of Great Gully; good clean climbing in a very fine situation. Best enjoyed with not more than 4 people on the route to savour the full flavour. Big groups take away from the experience and the tail-enders can expect to arrive home late.<br><br />
Start in the corner at the bottom right of the gully.<br><br />
(1) 10m Climb the corner to wide crack. Belay under a roof at the top of crack<br><br />
(2) 45m Gain the ridge and follow it directly to large stepping stones and easy ground.<br><br />
(3) 40m Move rightwards up steps and then climb a crack in the right corner of the slab above (crux) or more easily move up right via leaning corners and then back left above the crack. Gain height to a large platform visible from below.<br><br />
(4) 45m Move rightward to a short grassy wall. Move left up this for 3m to the base of a chimney with jammed blocks. Climb these to the top. Pitch not identified by anyone who sought it. It may describe going up via the off-width crack in the variation below.<br><br />
Variation: (4a) Climb a short grassy bank and step up left onto a wide ledge beneath an overhanging off width crack. Move on and down to the end of the ledge (belaying here reduces rope drag) and step up onto a small heathery ledge in a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and continue up a cracked wall above it. Scramble across the face to a pointed detached block. Finish up the slope behind this.<br><br />
J. Morrison, A. Kopczynski, 1951. Rediscovered by Richard Dean and A. Latham about 1980. They (re)named it "McAlpine's Back Passage"<br />
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'''Overview Of Great Gully Ridge'''<br />
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[[File:Exampleghty555.jpg|600px]]<br />
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Photo: Nick Simons<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG lower.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Lower section of Great Gully.|thumb|Lower section of Great Gully.]]<br />
D-FOR-DOG* 18m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of Great Gully corner at the bottom of the obvious clean slab. Climb the arête to the overhang and follow the parallel cracks to the ridge.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh. Ray Morrissey, Summer 2003<br />
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FLAKE* 15m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Start 15m up on the right side of the gully. Climb broken rock to a grassy ledge beneath the triangular face. Follow the crack-line, trending leftwards to the sharp flake then move rightwards to finish at the boulder on the ridge.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh, March 2000<br />
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THE RAMP 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
Take the steep ramp to the left of the triangular face to the large overhang. Move right to finish.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh Summer 2003<br />
[[File:Glenmalure GG mid.jpg|alt=Rock climbing toppo. Mid section of Great Gully.|thumb|Mid section of Great Gully.]]<br />
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NOT Z BACKWARDS* 25m HVS (5b)<br><br />
Previously incorrectly labeled as "Z BACKWARDS". That climb is in fact further up the gully under a similar little overhang. This error made it into the 2009 printed guidebook.<br><br />
Follow the ramp to under the overhang. Move high and left under the overhang before stepping right to gain the crack above.<br><br />
Unknown first accent.<br />
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LET THE HARE SIT 20m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
From the top of the detached block this route takes the line via the short cracks above it (crux)then up easier ground on good holds to the half way mark. Veer up steeply right on large holds and good friction a meter or so in from the right edge to gain G.G.Ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving. Christy Rice. 15th June 2014.<br />
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THREE MAD SHEEP (Great Gully) 27m VS (High in the grade)<br><br />
Start on the right hand side of the giant rock pedestal, where the pedestal butts up to the face two meters right of Pauls Crack. Pitch one 22 meters VS. Start at the very wide crack almost like a chimney at the bottom. Climb this all the way as it closes in to form a crack, difficulty increases with height. Athletically finish lay back moves from rounded pulls. Belay on top of grass ledge from nut on face and large block on top of Gully Crack. Pitch two S 5 meters. Step out right and climb wall above on rounded but good friction holds, tending steeply to right. Good belay on ridge.<br><br />
Tom Irving, Christy Rice. Alt leads. August 24th 2013 <br />
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PAUL'S CRACK 18m VS 4b<br><br />
Starts a further 20m up the gully. This route follows the obvious wide crack on the right side of the giant rock pedestal.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh February 2003<br />
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Z BACKWARDS* 25m VS (4a/4b)<br><br />
Start under the left end of the overhang. Move up and follow the well protected crack-line on the slab above.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003 <br />
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THE WINGS OF AN ANGLE 18m E2 (5c)<br><br />
Starts 8m to the left of Paul's Crack below the overhangs. Move diagonally to the right climbing the obvious fault (blocks). Climb the overhang (beware loose block) on to the face and follow the thin fault-line up the face to the horizontal crack and finish directly above. (poor protection)<br><br />
Ray Morrissey. Paul Kavanagh<br />
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GULLY CRACK 15m VS (4b)<br><br />
A further 20m or so up the gully, this route follows the obvious wide crack on the left-hand side of the giant rock pedestal where it meets the main face.<br><br />
Ray Morrissey, Paul Kavanagh March 2003<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in a recessed area on a mainly clean but crack-riven face capped by a projecting triangular block. Scramble up grassy slopes to reach the climbs.'''<br />
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FLYING DAGGERS 13m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start near the right-hand side of ledges in a corner beneath an overhang. Climb the shattered corner/crackline system past the overhang, finishing right of the projecting overhang.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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IMAGINING* 15m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Start at a small overhanging recess.<br><br />
Climb the recess and slant up right near the edge before taking a direct line upwards, a little to the left of the shattered crack of Flying Daggers. The crux is rather bold and delicate.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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GALE ALLEY* 18m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts below two parallel clefts. Go up via the right-hand cleft and slightly right to a very small niche. Continue up to finish at the projecting block.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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FULL TILT* 18m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Starts beneath the left-hand cleft, left of "Gale Alley". Climb the cleft and the overlap above it to a small niche directly above. Finish by climbing up direct or veering a little to the right.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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INSIDE EDGE 22m VS (4c)<br><br />
Starts in a slanting corner on the left side of the recessed slab. Clim past a small overhang and step right into a niche. Go up directly to finish.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 6/7/2003<br />
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REMEMBRANCE 13m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Takes the narrow rounded slab left of "Inside Edge". Climb near the right-hand side of the slab, moving left near the top to finish. Bold, delicate climbing.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall, 2/9/01<br />
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ALIX 20m S (4a)<br><br />
Takes a cleaned crack to the left of the "Remembrance" slab. Climb this, trending leftwards onto a grassy ledge, beneath a large open crack. Continue up this to the ridge above.<br><br />
Paul Kavanagh, July 2003.<br />
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[[File:BaravoreGullyHead.jpg|1067x1067px|alt=]]<br />
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'''The following climbs are on the last clean slab reachable from the gully floor.'''<br />
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PEPPA PIG** 20m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Obvious corner below the clean wall of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Good finger jamming, laybacking and bridging with some slab wobbling as well. Climb the right side of the slab to reach the hanging corner crack then climb that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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BABY SHARK* 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Loosely follows the arête formed by 2 slabs. Some interesting features and a bouldery crux. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. Arrange gear in the vertical corner at the right end of the ledge (which is surprisingly void of holds) then step up and left to gain a good hand hold in the thin crack close to the arête (crux). Pull up to good holds and a rest before stepping left round the arrete and following a slightly eliminate crack system to the top of the slab.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK 25m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Nice climbing that joins some interesting features but is ultimately escapable into RAMBLE for much of it's length. Start below and left of the left end of a large hanging grassy ledge. Climb a small overhang to gain the grassy ledge. From the leftmost end of the grassy ledge, make an easy but poorly protected move left onto the slab. Continue up the slab 1-2 meters from the arrete on the right. Eventually gear runs out so escape leftwards onto the obvious crack of RAMBLE and continue up that to the top.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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GRANDMA SHARK Variation 25m E1 (5a)<br><br />
Climb GRANDMA SHARK until the gear gets scarce but continue up the slab at the top for the final few meters instead of escaping leftwards.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2020.<br />
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RAMBLE 30m HS (4a)<br><br />
An easy way to reach the ledge of Eye-eye and Tower Crack. Start on the blocky ledge as for Plinth then start up the left side of the slab until ½ height, taking care of some loose blocks in the corner. When the angle of the slab eases, gain the obvious cracks that lead up the center of the slab, finally topping out on the right hand side where it is easier to mantle onto the grassy ledge at the base of Tower Crack. From here it is possible (with care) to reach the final pitch of Great Gully Ridge by traversing right across the grassy ledges.<br><br />
Ferghal Breathnach, July 2019.<br />
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PLINTH*** 30m VS (4c)<br><br />
An exciting pitch through some unlikely terrain. Start at the base of the clean slab shortly before the gully narrows and becomes impassible. Mantle onto a blocky ledge at the base of the slab then follow the obvious crack system up the middle of the slab until at 2/3rds height it is possible to move left to a detached flake on the front of the broken pillar of Obelisk. Impressive moves on good jugs lead up this flake then continue up the easier ground above to belay. From here it’s possible to traverse the steep grassy ledges with care to Left Crack, Right Crack or continue up Obelisk.<br><br />
Duncan Blom, July 2019.<br />
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'''The following climbs are found in the headwall area, in the upper reaches of Great Gully. They are described from left to right and are reached by carefully traversing in rightwards over vegetated ledges.'''<br />
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WINDRUSH 23m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start to the left of the buttress beneath a series of clefts. Follow the cleft-line to ledges and move up to the left of the overhang to finish via a crack at jammed blocks.<br><br />
J. Lyons, D. Wall 9/10/1994<br />
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LEFT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start below and to the left of Windrush at a cracked rib of rock. Climb this, going slightly left to gain the left-hand crack which finishes on the right side of a rocking block. Go right to reach the base of an overhanging corner which is climbed on small holds to belay in a niche just below the cliff-top.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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RIGHT CRACK * 25m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start as for Left Crack but move over to the right-hand crack and climb it to the overhanging corner which is again surmounted as for Left Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. Ó Hanlon. 27/9/1992.<br />
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OBELISK ** 45m HVS (5a)<br><br />
This route is visible as a broken pillar of rock from the gully below it. Reach the start by further traversing down to the right of Right Crack to obvious clean cracks or by climbing Plinth from the gully below.<br><br />
Climb the cracks to a blocky ledge (beware loose blocks) and continue up over sound blocks to a crack going diagonally left across a wall. Work across left here and climb a steep cracked groove to a partial rest-point just below a square-cut ledge on the right. Gain this directly or traverse right to reach better holds before pulling up onto a short overhanging corner which is climbed as for Left Crack and Right Crack<br><br />
J. Lyons, M. McSherry, 13/9/1992.<br />
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'''The next group of climbs are further right, on that section of the headwall directly behind the ridge above the recessed slab area.'''<br />
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WINK** 25m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb through the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall and proceed up the thin crack above. Tend leftwards as you go up, using another thin crack and eventually the corner to the left. When the corner starts to get vegetated, it is possible to escape onto a ledge on the wall to the left. Protection for belaying at the top can be hard to find so it is recommended to carefully walk rightwards to the top of EYE-EYE and belay there.<br><br />
Duncan Law, Summer 2021.<br />
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EYE-EYE*** 25m E2 (5b)<br><br />
Well protected climbing up the thin cracks in the clean wall left of the upper pitch of Great Gully Ridge. Twin ropes helpful. Start below the obvious triangular niche in the otherwise clean wall. Climb the obvious crack to gain the triangular niche then traverse right for 2-3 meters with feet at the height of the bottom of the niche until the next thin vertical crack can be reached. Climb this to the top on excellent wires and complicated fingerlocks.<br><br />
Duncan Law, June 2019.<br />
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TOWER CRACK** 30m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Follows the right-hand crack in the steep wall forming the left flank of this section of the headwall. Climb the well-protected crack, moving left near the top, past a slight overhang to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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CASTLES IN THE AIR* 40m E1 (5b)<br><br />
Moving left from the ridge below a frontal section of the headwall climb the obvious bulging crack to a ledge; Traverse left for 3m and climb ledges to a bulging corner crack. Climb this to an exciting airy finish (crux).<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, Summer 2000.<br />
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HIGH IDEALS 40m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Climb the obvious bulging crack to the ledge as for Castles in the Air but then finish directly above to the right.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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HAKUNA MATATA** 40m E2 (5c)<br><br />
To the right of the obvious bulging crack is a smaller crack about 4m long. Climb this to the ledge above (good protection). Continue directly up to finish.<br><br />
R. Morrissey, P. Kavanagh, March 2000.<br />
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'''The following route takes the steep arête-like ridge which forms the left side of Great Gully.'''<br />
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PINNACLE RIDGE 150m HVS (4c)<br><br />
Not for the rock purist but nevertheless an interesting and sometimes demanding challenge on rock and heather up this steep, arête-like ridge. The route follows the crest of the ridge and climbs the main obstacles directly. It starts at a steep wall behind a tree and climbs the wall directly which is difficult and poorly protected at the top. The next major rock obstacle is taken partly on the right, going up and over a large rocking block. Rather easier but pleasant climbing on good rock towards the top of the ridge with panoramic views.<br><br />
J. Lyons, S. O Hanlon, 27/9/1992.<br />
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====BARAVORE VALLEY (LOWER)====<br />
'''This crag is at the northern end of the line of cliffs in Baravore Valley. Reach it by following the spur and forest road as in the description of Baravore Valley (Upper). This time however turn right at the first junction and after about 10 minutes take a rough track rising on the left through recently planted (circa 2000) forest. This track starts at a sweeping lefthand bend in the road and is directly opposite two mature pines, both with their tops lopped off (there is a clearing and a rocky outcrop below the two pines). The top of the crag can be seen from the start of the track, above the trees ahead. Follow the unplanted area up through a narrow gap in the trees and leave it when level with the foot of the crag to traverse sharply left, keeping close to the rock to avoid rough ground below. Failure to do this will leave you in an area of cunningly hidden, heather-covered holes between the boulders where even the mountain rescue may not find you. Pass through a grove of alder trees in a gully to reach the toe of the first buttress. 35 - 40 minutes from the hostel. As the crag is approached from the right the routes are described from right to left. Although the rock is sound and the climbing generally good the awkward access and resurgence of heather in the cracks detracts from the enjoyment of the crag.'''<br />
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'''ALDER BUTTRESS is the first buttress reached, to the left of the tree-filled gully.'''<br />
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ALDER AMBLER 39m VS (4b,4b)<br><br />
Start at the lowest point of the buttress, on the left-hand side, below a crack slanting up right.<br><br />
1. 24m Climb the crack to a ledge, pull up onto a block and move across and up left to a ledge on the edge of the slab. Gain a higher ledge and climb a short steep wall to the foot of a deep crack which splits the upper slab. Strenuous moves gain the crack which is followed to a wide ledge and thread belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Move left and climb the wide crack running up to the right of the overhang, difficulty increases with height<br><br />
G. Moss, E. Hackett, 20/2/1993.<br />
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SNOWFLAKES * 40m HVS (5a,4c)<br><br />
Although escapable at several points it gives enjoyable climbing. Start 2m left of Alder Ambler, below a thin dogleg crack running up the right-hand edge of the steep face.<br><br />
1. 25m Climb the crack to a ledge, traverse horizontally left for 2m and make a difficult move up to gain a short slanting crack (crux). Move left again and pull up into the slanting corner. Leave the corner by hand traversing out left from beneath the overhang and pull up into a small triangular cave. Make an awkward move out right to gain a ledge at the base of the upper slab. Delicate moves lead up the left edge to a wide ledge and belay.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the left edge of blocks to a stance below the left side of a short hanging slab. Hand traverse left along the lip of the slab and pull around into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br><br />
Variation: Direct Start 23m HVS (5b)1a Starting midway between Snowflakes and Alder Statesman climb directly up the wall via the short, thin vertical crack to gain the sloping crack of Snowflakes.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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[[file:glm1.jpg|600px]]<br />
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'''Snowflakes - direct start.'''<br />
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ALDER STATESMAN * 36m VS (4c,4b)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Snowflakes, below the overhang.1. 21m Climb the cracks to the overhang. Move across left to gain the foot of a flake below the cave. Climb the flake and traverse left along the wide zig-zag crack to exit by a projecting block.<br><br />
2. 15m Follow the wide crack to a ledge below and right of the overhang. Step left onto the slab and pull directly over the overhang on good holds.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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CRACK AND SLAB 25m HS (4b)<br><br />
Start 5m up left of Snowflakes and just left of a large rowantree growing against the face. Climb the cracks and exit by aprojecting block onto a wide ledge. Climb the edge of the blocks to a stance below and left of the hanging slab. Makea delicate move up left onto the slab and climb the crack above.<br><br />
E. Hackett, G. Moss, 20/2/1993.<br />
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The next two climbs are on ROWAN BUTTRESS to the left of and at right-angles to Alder Buttress.<br />
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ROWAN ROOFS 27m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start at the bottom right of the buttress, in a corner below a series of overhangs and 4m above a large rowan tree.The first three overhangs are taken on the left, the fourth by a short lay-back crack. Above this step right and climb a thin crack to a ledge. A shallow corner and a block lead to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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ROWAN ARÊTE * 27m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start at the bottom left of the buttress, beside a conifer, below and left of a rowan growing above an overhang.Pull up right onto a block, climb a short crack and a flake to gain a crack running up the left side of the arête. Follow the crack until it is possible to step right onto the arête and move up to a ledge. Difficult moves lead to a higher ledge at the foot of a short, steep section capped by an overhang. Climb the edge on small holds (crux), step right and jam up the crack which splits the overhang. A difficult mantelshelf is followed by easier climbing to a grassy bay with a short pillar and good belays.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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'''The next five climbs are on HOLLY BUTTRESS which is to the left of, and around the corner from, Rowan Buttress. A large holly tree grows in a corner at its base.'''<br />
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SAVAGE SAGA 28m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start 3m right of the holly tree, on a heather ledge below an overhang and just left of a small rowan tree.Climb a short left-trending ramp to reach a horizontal finger crack and traverse back right above the overhang. Delicate moves gain the upper slab and lead with continuing delicacy up its left edge to a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and step onto the slightly overhanging wall. Steep climbing leads to a strenuous exit.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, 25/8/1993.<br />
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ROGHA NA COILLE * 28m VS (4b)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a sloping ledge and pull up onto a detached block. Continue pleasantly up the corner with some difficult moves near the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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FIRST TREE OF THE GREENWOOD 19m VS (4c)<br><br />
Start just left of the holly tree. Climb a flake and traverse right into the corner behind the tree. Climb this corner to a good ledge below the shallow, overhanging scoop. Climb this (crux) and the short wall above.<br><br />
G. Moss, H. Sharkey, 13/4/1993.<br />
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DECK THE HALLS * 19m HVS (5a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of the holly tree, just below and right of three rowan trees, at the foot of a thin crack. Steep climbing leads to a good ledge where the crack widens. Continue pleasantly up the crack to the overhang, surmount this (crux) and continue more easily to the top.<br><br />
G. Moss, B. Hannon, H. Sharkey, 5/7/1993.<br />
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GREENLANDIC 23m S (4a)<br><br />
Start 3m left of Deck The Halls at the foot of the highest of the three rowan trees.<br><br />
1. 13m Traverse rightwards to reach a sloping ledge behind the holly tree. Pull up onto a detached block and move across right to belay at the foot of the slab with an overhang on its left.<br><br />
2. 10m Climb the slab - difficult to start and delicate to finish.<br><br />
B. Hannon, G. Moss, 25/8/1993.<br />
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'''The next two climbs are on FRAUGHAN BUTTRESS which is about 15m left of the top of Holly Buttress. A rowan tree grows at its foot and another at the base of an obvious deep chimney.'''<br />
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FRAUGHAN CHIMNEY 12m VD<br><br />
Start at the small rowan tree at the foot of the buttress. Move up right to a ledge with a second rowan. Squeeze into the narrow chimney and climb it, moving left above to belay on the highest ledge.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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FRAUGHAN ARÊTE 12m VS (4b)<br><br />
Takes the arête between the previous route and the next one.<br><br />
T. O Neill, H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 9/5/1995.<br />
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FRAUGHAN WALL 11m HS (4a)<br><br />
Start as for Fraughan Chimney. Climb the corner to the left of the arête until it is possible to pull up into the grassy niche on the wall. Steep climbing on good holds leads via the jammed block to a belay as for the chimney.<br><br />
H. Sharkey, G. Moss, 13/4/1993.<br />
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'''There is one final route in Barravore Valley on the opposite (south-east) side of the valley on the steep rocky buttress which descends leftwards, west of Art's Lough.'''<br />
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ENTERPRISE 100m VD<br><br />
Takes a central line up the buttress to the left of a shallow, grassy gully.<br><br />
J. Lynam, J. Shortell, November 1951.<br />
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==Map of locations in Glenmalure==<br />
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[[File:glenmalure.png|800px]]</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Garron_Point&diff=3893Garron Point2023-08-28T11:07:49Z<p>FHGJDKGH: 2 new lines</p>
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<div>====Sport====<br />
A newly developed sport crag overlooking the bay at Waterfoot. Good quality climbing on milky white limestone with interesting flint-stone features, easy access, and a useful spread of grades.<br />
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The location benefits from a relatively dry climate, being in the rain shadow of the nearby Antrim plateau. The rock dries fairly quickly and the steeper main wall stays dry in light rain. The cliff gets evening sun from around 5pm in spring/summer. Can be midgey on still days in summer/autumn. <br />
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AS WITH ANY NEWLY DEVELOPED CRAG, WHILE THE ROUTE EQUIPPERS HAVE CLEANED THE ROCK TO THE BEST OF THEIR ABILITY SOME LOOSE HOLDS SHOULD BE EXPECTED - HELMETS ADVISABLE.<br />
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=====Approach notes=====<br />
There's room for 5 or 6 cars in a lay-by below the crag, just before the two houses on the seafront. Cross through the gate with the blue Honesty Box - please make a small contribution to show appreciation to the local farmer who allows access on his land. Form the honesty box walk rightwards (sheep track on your right) for a short distance uphill to the crag towards the stack.<br />
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The neighboring farmer is happy for climbing to take place on this wall. Please stay off the crags above the farmer's fields to the west of the main cliff, as access to these hasn't been agreed.<br />
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Please act considerately to nearby homeowners as noise carries in this tranquil location - no loud whooping after your flash of Saturn V! [[File:Garron Point.jpg|none|thumb]]<br />
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'''Small wall left to right.''' <br />
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6b - straight up bolts<br />
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6a - starts left, merge into right route to share 2 bolts and finish left on own bolts <br />
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6a - straight up right line of bolts <br />
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'''Right of small wall.''' <br />
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7b+ - starts left. Small Boulder to gain arête- finish up arête <br />
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7a- arête <br />
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'''Main wall''' <br />
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8a - left line of bolts (arguably loose block at top) <br />
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7b+ - straight up bolts, move right to merge with 7c finish <br />
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7c- straight up bolts. Merge top section with 7b+<br />
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8b/+ - expansion bolts. Keep right of 7c. <br />
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'''Steep side Pinnacle -''' <br />
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6c+ - left side <br />
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6c - right side <br />
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'''Slab side pinnacle -''' <br />
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2x 5s<br />
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'''Shorter slab below Pinnacle -'''<br />
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4c - Left hand line<br />
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6b - Right hand variation<br />
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====Trad====<br />
Garron Point (Grid Ref - 30 24) is a prominent headland five kilometres north of Carnlough on the Antrim Coast road. The rock is a type of chalk containing large flints which form sharp holds. Above the chalk there is a tilted layer of weathered basalt which forms the bulk of the headland proper and is of no climbing interest. The routes can be quite loose, particularly at the top, and care must be taken not to dislodge rocks onto the road. Climbers have hitherto been active here with the tacit permission of the owners at the nearby college.<br />
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Cars may be parked in the public car park adjacent to the post office, about 30m from the crag.<br />
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Descent from the routes is by the large grassy gullies at either side of the crag.<br />
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'''As of 2017 the crag is covered with metal mesh to stabilise it rendering it effectively unclimbable'''<br />
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'''Moratorium''' 40m HS<br><br />
P Blake, M Curran. 9/6/1970.<br><br />
A large buttress on the left of the crag encroaches on the road. The route which starts in a sheltered alcove winds its way round the buttress from bottom left to top right. After a difficult start move around the corner (right) to gain a steep groove. Continue up past ivy and loose rock to belay on a post.<br />
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'''Cockleshell Cracks''' 45m HS<br><br />
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 6/1969.<br><br />
The best route on the crag. Start at the bottom of two impressive cracks which run up the corner behind the lay-by. <br>1) 15m. Climb easily up the chimney, exit left and continue up to a restricted stance under a large overhang. <br>2) 30m. Move up and right past an old wedge to gain a vertical crack. Climb the corner on good holds, loose at the top. Finish up the grass.<br />
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'''King Nose''' 40m S<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 14/10/1971.<br><br />
Start approximately half way between Cockleshell Cracks and El Condor in a vegetated corner left of a prominent arête. <br>1) 30m. Climb the right-hand pocketed wall on good holds before moving left into the corner. Move up and step left below a small tree. Step back right and gain the wide irregular crack. Follow this rightwards, exiting onto an airy platform on the arête. <br>2) 12m. Easily up mixed grass and rock to the top.<br />
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'''Tort''' 56m S<br><br />
M Curran, L B Marshall. 1971.<br><br />
A rising traverse of the right-hand buttress, this route takes in some good scenery. Poor protection. Start at the base of the obvious groove at the left edge of the right-hand buttress. <br>1) 28m. Enter the corner and climb easily on large holds until it is possible to pull out right and traverse right below the overhanging wall to a sentry box belay in the middle of the buttress. <br>2) 28m. Continue the horizontal traverse across the right wall onto the arête. From this exposed position climb on poor rock to the top.<br />
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'''Impending Disaster''' 42m VD + A2<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 24/1/1970.<br><br />
An exposed route with fine situations. Start at the base of an inverted Y-crack, roughly in the middle of the buttress. <br>1) 20m. Begin up the wriggly crack and weave through the overhangs above to arrive at sentry box. <br>2) 22m. The impending wall on the left is split by a rising crack. Move out across this crack on pegs (some in place) to the edge where the crack assumes a near vertical tilt. Using thinner pegs move up this headwall to grass and a metal spike belay.<br />
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'''El Condor''' 42m S<br><br />
L N Griffin, M Curran. 25/10/1970.<br><br />
1) 20m. As for Impending Disaster. <br>2) 22m. Follow a steep ramp leading diagonally upwards to the right. Emerge onto the arête and follow it to the top.<br />
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'''This crag lies about 500m north of the Coast Road Crag beside a side road running up to the nearby college. Most routes tend to be short and problematical, particularly those found on the seaward buttress. The three routes listed are on the landward side of the road close to the main wall. Descend towards a small cottage 100m to the south.'''<br />
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'''== Descriptions for the following routes are out of date due to rock fall and they are considered dangerous =='''<br />
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'''Coughin Wall''' 33m HS<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 6/12/1969.<br><br />
Serious with some loose rock at mid-height, not well protected. Start at the bottom of an ill-defined groove about 3m left of the shallow arête formed where the main wall meets the road. Locate a small overhang and climb directly up. At about 10m move slightly right to gain the depression above. Finish straight up.<br />
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'''Ottago''' 33m S<br><br />
M Curran, B Blake. 20/4/1969.<br><br />
Start a few metres right of Coughin Wall at the left-hand side of the main wall. The route follows a thin groove to a tiny stance on the arête at about 9m. Move left to gain the depression which is crossed on large flint bollards. Straight up to the top and belay on the metal spike.<br />
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'''Heckler''' 40m VS<br><br />
M Henry, M Curran (Alternate Lead). 1/6/72.<br><br />
A fine airy route with good protection throughout. The line follows the prominent groove on the right-hand side of the main wall. Start at the entrance to a small cave. <br>1) 10m. Climb up out of the cave turning the large perched block on the right. <br>2) 30m. Move left into the groove proper up a series of ledges. Awkward moves follow as the groove begins to lean to the right. Easier rock leads to the top.<br />
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'''About 1.5 kilometres further north along the Coast Road there is a tiny cottage and a small pier. A tilted finger of rock, Saturn Pinnacle, on the slopes above has two routes.'''<br />
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'''Violator''' 18m VD<br><br />
M Curran, P Blake. 30/11/1969.<br><br />
Start at the back of the pinnacle. Gain the ledge and move right to the arête. Continue to the top.<br />
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'''The Savage''' 35m VD<br><br />
F Mason. 1966<br><br />
On the seaward side of the pinnacle climb straight up the slab, loose at the top. (Descent is by abseil).<br />
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'''Milky Way''' 30m E2 5c<br><br />
M Daly, P McGarrity. 5/8/1995.<br><br />
Behind Saturn Pinnacle there is a white wall with a crack running up the centre – the route takes this perfect jam crack.</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Annalecka_Buttress&diff=3847Annalecka Buttress2023-07-27T14:23:23Z<p>FHGJDKGH: added exact coordinates of crag + google maps link</p>
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<div>This small buttress is only two or three minutes walk from the road. Although short, each route presents its own difficulties. Protection is mostly good apart from one or two routes which require confidence. The rock is a very rough granite with a high volume of quartz. Seamus Crowley discovered the area back in 2005 and developed some bouldering problems. Dave Flanagans "Bouldering in Ireland" has a couple of pages dedicated to the problems to be found here. <br />
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'''Note:''' Some of these routes may or may not have been climbed in the past but were never recorded. Please see [http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,4952.0.html] and [http://irishmountaineeringclub.org/index.php?option=com_loudmouth&Itemid=&task=topic&id=4348]<br />
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'''Approach:''' Coming from Laragh take the R756 over Wicklow Gap and descend down the western side. Park on the left hand side just before the bridge for Annalecka Brook with white railings. Walk up the track until you see a St Kevin's Way signpost. Continue to follow the track around to the right for a about fifty meters. The buttress is down on the left hand side.<br />
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'''Google Maps crag location''': https://goo.gl/maps/G9GU4AhfWkRQKeef9<br />
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'''Crag Coordinates:''' 53.053918, -6.423820<br />
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[[File:Annalecka 2023.jpg|alt=]]<br />
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[[File:Annalecka-side.jpg]]<br />
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'''1. Picnic Basket''' VS 4c<br /> <br />
''Aodhnait Carroll, Danielle Rosenberg Polak 11/3/12''<br /><br />
Gain the short crack and finish strenuously to the top.<br />
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'''2. Becky''' HVS 5a<br /><br />
''Rob Davies, Debbie Davies 10/3/12''<br /><br />
Start below the right hand of 3 diagonal cracks in the middle of the buttress. Using ledges and a good hand hold move up onto the small sloping ledge. Arrange gear in the left hand crack (good Cam and large Wire) then make bold moves on small holds to the top. A final good cam can be used to protect the final move.<br />
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'''3. Shannon''' VS 4c<br /><br />
''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll 14/1/12''<br /><br />
Gain the short crack in the middle of the buttress and continue up to better holds then follow the deep crack out left and to the top.<br />
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'''4. Sixteen Mississippi''' HS 4b<br /><br />
''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll 14/1/12''<br /><br />
Start as for Shannon. Follow the small right trending ledge for a bit then follow the crack rightwards to finish. <br />
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'''5. Shush Your Mouth''' S 4a (Not HS as topo shows)<br /><br />
''Aodhnait Carroll, Terrance Glancy 14/1/12''<br /><br />
A crescent shaped route. Gain the rightward trending crack and follow the left curve to finish. Well protected. <br />
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'''6. Mudhammer''' S 4a<br /><br />
''Danny Kennedy, Marco Waddock 11/3/12''<br /><br />
The deep crack is flared and dirty!<br />
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'''7. So Does Straight On''' VS 4c<br /><br />
''Aodhnait Carroll, Danielle Rosenberg Polak 11/3/12'' <br /><br />
Start up the right trending crack and delicately make your way up to the fading cracks to finish.<br />
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'''8. So Sideways Works''' S 4a<br /><br />
''Aodhnait Carroll, Terrance Glancy 14/1/12''<br /><br />
Start as for So Does Straight On and follow the narrow ledge and cracks out right to finish.<br />
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'''9. There's Always a First''' VS 4c<br /><br />
''Piotr Berlowski, Rob Davies 08/04/12''<br /><br />
Start 1m left of "Becky". Move up and right on delicate feet with hands on the sloping ledge. Gain the ledge and step right onto the ramp with balancy move without hands. Traverse along the ramp and through to the right trending crack. Finish as for "Sixteen Mississippi". Bring many "friends" and keep your second in mind when arranging the protection.<br />
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'''10. Pesto Special''' HS 4a<br /><br />
''Dave Gillard, Alison Gillard 25/3/12''<br /><br />
If you nip around the corner to the right from So Sideways Works the crag reduces in height quite significantly, but there is one major line which really stands out. Gain the very obvious large niche/ledge by a slightly dynamic move before trending leftwards to reach the top.<br />
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'''11. Grand Canal (Shannon Direct)''' VS 4c<br /><br />
''Piotr Berlowski, Natasza Berlowska 28/08/21''<br /><br />
Start directly below the crack at the top of Shannon using sidepulls on delicate feet. Climb straight up to gain the ledge and then to finish as for Shannon. Only sketchiest protection is available until the bomber cam at the bottom of the ledge.<br />
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'''12. Skadoosh''' E3 5c<br />
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''Dave Ayton, Caroline Harney Ayton 11/07/23''<br />
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Climb direct to the right hand end of the obvious rising horizontal break. Good cams. Leave the gear behind and climb straight up to the highest point on the face exiting left. bold.<br />
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'''13. Move on''' E2 5b<br />
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''Dave Ayton, Caroline Harney Ayton 12/07/23''<br />
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Use a short vertical crack to get established standing on the horizontal break. Patter up the face to a jug at the top.<br />
[[File:Annalecka Slabs 2023.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /></div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Upper_Cove&diff=3770Upper Cove2023-06-14T10:41:46Z<p>FHGJDKGH: /* Green Cove */</p>
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<div>This is an excellent mountain crag with a commanding outlook about 800m further up the Annalong Valley from the top of the Lower Cove cliffs. The majority of the routes have a sunny aspect as they are located on south-facing buttresses, generally well protected and certainly worth the fairly energetic walk of about one and a quarter hours (or a leisurely one and a half.) The largest buttress, Fox's Crag, lies to the extreme right-hand end, with a number of smaller buttresses named `B' to `O' (right to left) lying to its left. Round the corner to the right of Fox's Crag is a large steep east facing wall and below this Green Cove, both of which are undeveloped. The smaller buttresses left of Fox's Crag would be the best beginners venue in the Mournes if only the approach was shorter. Also, although the connection along the base of the buttresses could hardly be described as handy it is rewarding to make the effort to go to a number of the crags in a single visit.<br />
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<display_map zoom="14" type="satellite">54.1724, -5.949377~Upper Cove</display_map><br />
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The crag is approached from the car park (345219) at the bottom of the Carrick Little Track as for Lower Cove to the stone sheep-fold. Up the gully on the left edge of Third Corner Buttress, crossing the plateau on -e right side of Cove Lough and up the final steep heather slopes. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the right-hand end of the East Face, and moving down to Fox's Crag, and left to the subsidiary buttresses.<br />
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'''Initiation''' 30m VS+A7<br />''C. Moore, D. Bullock. F. Bullock. 3/4/65.''<br />at the right-hand side of the East Face in the gully at a point where a large section of the face has detached itself. 12m Climb the chimney, formed by the detached face, out of the gully. ' 3m Climb the steep wall above, using aid.<br />
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'''Isis''' 20m HVS (5a, 4c)<br />''R. Cole. M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />Somewhat broken climbing but good strenuous moves, with two pitches used to eliminate rope drag. Start at the left-hand end of the East Face. <br />1) 10m Climb the overhanging groove chimney.<br />2) 10m Climb the wall just right of the arete, then move left round the arete to finish on jugs.<br />
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''Moving left round the corner is Fox's Crag.''<br />
==FOX'S CRAG==<br />
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'''Epiphone''' 48m VS (4c)<br />''F. Devlin, J. Sloan. 27/6/65.''<br />A fine? mixed route! Start just right of the railings at the right-hand side of the crag.<br />1) 15m Climb the crack and move left to perched block belay.<br />2) 15m Climb the wall on the left and step out left onto a sloping ledge. Climb the crack (peg runner) and pull up onto sloping ledge. Climb corner beyond.<br />3) 18m Scramble to top<br />
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The wall to the left of Epiphone has three prominent vertical cracks:<br />
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'''Icarus''' * 33m HVS (5a)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 17/5/80.''<br />This good route takes the right-hand crack with the overhang at the top. The wide crack is easier than it looks from below.<br />1) 15m Follow the crack which to where it widens at the overhang. Hand traverse left under the overhang for 5m to the next crack (Gorgon) which takes you to the top of the wall.<br />2) 18m Scramble to top.<br />
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'''Gorgon''' * 13m E2 (5c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 7/6/80.''<br />A route of a technically reasonable standard but sustained and follows the centre crack petering out two-thirds down. Climb the shallow crack (peg) using holds on the left wall to reach a deep crack. Climb crack above, finishing as for Icarus.<br />
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'''Edge of Darkness''' * 30m VS (5a)<br />''S. Mcllwaine, A. Whitcroft. 20/7/86.''<br />Takes the left-hand crack which is 3m right of the edge. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue up (sustained) to a ledge. Continue easily up arete on left to top, or move right and up to the top.<br />
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'''Midsummer Madness''' * 30m VD<br />''M. McMurray, H. C. Elliott. 22/5/56.''<br />Start at the right-hand edge of the gully (Fertility Gully) which lies just left of Edge of Darkness. Climb the edge and continue up the arete.<br />
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''The main face on Fox's Crag lies just left of Midsummer Madness, being separated from it by Fertility Gully.''<br />
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'''Socialist Slant''' 40m VS (4c)<br />''M. Curran (Solo). 21/5/78.''<br />A delicate start, then a bit scrappy but improves to give a well positioned finish and a grand tour of the face. Start at Fertility Gully. Move up step left and continue left to gain the ramp. Follow this diagonally left to a prominent square-cut niche. Up then trend diagonally left to left-hand edge of face and finish up flakes (as for Revisionist).<br />
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'''St Mawr *''' 45m El (5b)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, K Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A delicate crux but the interest is well maintained through-out. Start just left of Socialist Slant. Climb layback flakes to gain ramp of Socialist Slant and trend left for a few moves, until an obvious traverse line takes you back towards the arete on the right. Gain a ledge via a small spike and, from its left end, make difficult moves up to reach flakes leading to roof. Turn roof on right and continue directly up.<br />
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'''No rest for the Wicked ***''' 35m E5 (6a)<br />''J. Dunne, R. Young (Top-roped prior to first ascent). 2/5/94.''<br />The compelling faint crack/groove line up the middle of the face with a delicate start and then adequate protection. Climb to the series of ledges at quarter height (two old pegs). Using the faint groove and some widely spaced horizontal breaks move delicately up to a deeper `pocket' at half height. Continue cautiously to threequarters height, passing flake on left before the last few moves.<br />
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'''Liberal Thinker **''' 30m E2 (5b/c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 11/10/80.''<br />Open climbing with a serious air. Start the obvious crack and dyke line which is gained by following Revisionist and stepping right to the crack. Climb the right-leaning dyke (peg at two-third height) to the top.<br />A better independent start (l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.) is to take the crack 5m left of St Mawr to gain a clean ledge in the middle of Socialist Slant which is followed leftwards to the dyke.<br />
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'''Revisionist **''' 30m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A fine airy climb with a bold feel. Start on top of the pillar left of Liberal Thinker, best approached from the foot of Needles Eye Gully (to the left). Go up and right via a flake to gain a prominent square-cut niche. Traverse horizontally left to the arete, up a short crack, and finish via flakes.<br />Variation Blow in the Po * E2 (5b) A. Chambers, N. Anderson. 10/4/94. A direct finish to Revisionist which continues up the crack/seam directly from the square-cut niche. This finish can be combined with the variation start to Liberal Thinker to give a good independent route.<br />
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'''Needles Eye Gully *''' 52m<br />''D C. Brims and Party. 23/7/39.''<br />A fine traditional route i.e. normally dripping wet, slimy and manky with an amusing exit for the more portly climber. Start the large vertical gash left of Revisionist.<br />1) 40m Scramble up the sandy floor of the gully. 2) 12m Climb up the back of the gully exiting to right or left.<br />(An alternative finish, mentioned in earlier guides, is the green wall lower down on the left.)<br />
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''The final section of Fox's Crag lies left of Needles Eye Gully.''<br />
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'''The Brucer **''' 25m VS (4b)<br />''R. Cole, M. Smith. 23/6/79.''<br />A pleasantly sustained mountain route with a delicate start. Start underneath a scoop below a roof, 3m left of Needles Eye Gully. Scramble up and climb scoop then move right under the roof. Climb up cracks and grooves to top.<br />
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'''Comic Relief * 2'''0m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, S. Wheeler. 2/11/86.''<br />A pleasant route with a fine finish. Start as for The Brucer. But move left under roof into corner then step back right onto wall. Climb to obvious left-slanting crack and finish delicately along this.<br />
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'''Winding Stair *''' 25m S (4a)<br />''P. Blake, L. Griffin. 17/3/71.''<br />A satisfying route on good positive holds and well protected. Start 2m left of The Brucer. Gain flake left of obvious corner and up to this to ledge below overhang which is turned on its left-hand side. Variation 25m S (3c) Not as good as the original. Gain the corner which is followed until about 3m below the overhang a traverse left leads along a tiny ramp to join the original at the ledge.<br />
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'''The Tiddler''' 21m VD<br />''R. Cole, M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />The route takes a vegetated line between Winding Stair and Shark's Nose. It starts below the left-hand end of the small overhang at half height and takes in a small corner, the left-hand end of the small overhang then moves left and up to finish.<br />
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'''Shark's Nose **''' 45m D<br />''C. Brims (Solo). 17/3/39.''<br />A' classic' climb more or less taking the arete forming the left-hand edge of Fox's Crag and starts just left of the arete.<br />
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'''Little Umbrellas''' 30m HS (4a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />Start about 5m left of Shark's Nose up the gully wall. Climb the thin left trending crack with many horizontal breaks, over a bulge and finish just to the left of the actual Shark's Nose.<br />
==B BUTTRESS==<br />
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B Buttress is the first of the smaller buttresses lying left of Fox's Crag. The climbs on B Buttress start just right of the lowest part of the face, and are described from right to left.<br />
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'''Jaws''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the face. Climb up a blank wall for 3m to a prominent layback flake. Follow to top.<br />
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'''Drop Off''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Jaws. Climb leftwards and up on sloping ledges, then trending right to join the finish of Jaws.<br />
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'''Shamrock''' 50m D<br />''M. Curran (solo). 17/3/71.''<br />Takes the arete at the extreme left of the buttress, being separated from Drop Off by two small grassy bays.<br />
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'''Clover Corner''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson, J. Brown. 12/8/84.''<br />Up the gully left of Shamrock, on the right-hand side is an 8m tower. This route starts just above the broken blocks above the tower. Surmount crumbling flakes and gain the diedre above, then move right onto wall below the roof. Climb up right of the roof onto the terrace above. Move back left out over the gully wall to climb the nose above and finish.<br />
==C BUTTRESS==<br />
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C Buttress lies about 60m to the left, and slightly higher up from B Buttress. The lines lie towards the left-hand end of the crag, with the right-hand end becoming shorter and more vegetated. The first route is the obvious chimney/crack at this right-hand side<br />
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'''Strongarm''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Up chimney/crack until possible to bridge up and past the big flakes (one loose) on good holds, trend right and using a jamming crack climb to belay.<br />
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'''Pendulum''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Strongarm, at obvious groove. Proceed upwards using bridging to reach a poor handhold on right, at a slightly overhanging top portion of the climb.<br />
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'''Roisin Roulette''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, R. Bankhead, R. Young. 11/8/96.''<br />Start 2m left of Pendulum. Climb directly up wall passing jutting block.<br />
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''A few metres left of Roisin Roulette is another groove.''<br />
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'''Lost Province''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Climb the arete left of this groove past two distinctive threads.<br />
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'''Class Struggle *''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''P. Mallon, M. McNiff. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 2m left of Lost Province and 5m right of the left arete of the buttress. Climb the wall into a hanging niche capped by a roof. Pull left out of niche and then right, to the top.<br />
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'''Roughing It''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start just left of Class Struggle. Climb steep wall into shallow scoop, break out left and then go straight up.<br />
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'''Tapestry''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''V. McCartney, D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the groove just right of the left arete of the buttress.<br />
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'''Touch''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start left and around the corner from Tapestry on the gully wall. Take the obvious diagonal line just left of the edge, with the crux low down at the thin cracks.<br />
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==D BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Congor Crack''' 25m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Takes the obvious curving crack on the right just before the buttress becomes shorter and vegetated. Follow crack into and over jutting ledges to mantelshelf finish. Poor belay.<br />
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'''Captains Log''' 25m S<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start at base of crack with delicate tree 6m left of Congor Crack. Up slab and continue up corner to easier rock on the right. Continue to top via blocks and ledges.<br />
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'''Enterprise Ulster''' 25m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 1 m left of Captain's Log at white mark. Trend left to diedre and follow to top<br />
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'''Warp Factor''' 25m S (3c)<br />''D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Start as for Enterprise Ulster. Move right up a short wall at bottom of diedre to gain blunt arete between Captain's Log and Enterprise Ulster.<br />
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'''Dad's Route''' * 40m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.''<br />A route in the finest of alpine traditions which takes the chimney crack on the left-hand end of the buttress, weaving its way through the overhangs. Climb a knobbly wall past a flake overhang at 8m and continue up the chimney with suspect blocks at top (possible belay). Scramble up arete to bivi site behind flake and up the short headwall.<br />
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'''Tish''' 30m VD <br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.'' <br />Start at a slabby flake 10m left of Dad's Route, separated by vegetation. Climb the slab and gain the diedre at 10m. Up the diedre escaping right at top or climb arete on left.<br />
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'''Venus''' 15m VS (4b)<br />''M. Mills. 25/4/82.''<br />The route is usually damp and green, but the grade is for dry conditions should they ever arise - it has been known to happen! Climb the regular green groove 5m along the gully wall from Tish.<br />
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'''White Indian''' ** 30m HS (4b) l<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />A highly recommendable route saving its crux for a grand well protected finale. Start on the buttress across the gully from Venus and left of a small pinnacle. Climb, trending left, the steep, blocky face left of the nose and finish via a short steep, hand crack on the left.<br />
==E BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Trichotomy''' 45m D<br />''J. Forsythe (solo). 5/81.''<br />Takes the left-hand arete of E Buttress.<br />
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'''Nose Cone''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson. J. Brown. 21/4/85.''<br />Start at a small recess half-way up the gully left of Trichotomy. Climb up the recess and surmount the nose cone (crux). Step into a left-trending groove. Climb this for 13m and step right into another groove and follow it to top (loose).<br />
==F BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a small square buttress with a distinctive 'A' shaped recess and lies to the left of E Buttress. There is a small buttress up the gully separating E and F Buttress's.<br />
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'''Juniper Ridge''' 50m VD<br />''J. Forsythe. M. Forsythe, R. Cole. 2/5/86.''<br />1)20m Take a line of ledges from the bottom right to the top left. 2) 30m Follow ridge artificially to top. 2) The short wall to the right of the `A shaped recess provides the following four entertaining routes:<br />
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'''The Geek''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''l. Rea, R. Bankhead, D. Crawley. 24/5/97.''<br />Start 2m right of Apathy League. Go straight up to grass moustache and move up diagonally right to ledge on edge. Come back left a few moves then finish directly via a crack in bulging wall.<br />
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'''Apathy League''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start at two parallel grooves running up (or down) the wall. Climb the grooves directly to the top.<br />
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'''Wine Victim''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start just right of short corner which is at the right arete of the alcove. Step onto small ledge and continue straight up to ledge at 3m (crux). Continue directly up the wall to top.<br />
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'''Pointless Arete''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start the short corner at the right arete of the alcove. Climb the arete, the crux is gaining the obvious ledge just above the corner. At the top bulge step left into the awkward crack.<br />
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''At the left-hand end of the buttress, just right of arete are two thin parallel cracks, with a deeper crack lying just to their right.''<br />
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'''Lysteria''' 16m VS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, T. Hawkins, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the deeper crack to the top.<br />
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'''Hysteria''' 16m E1 (5b)<br />''S. Mcllwaine. 15/3/87.''<br />A good little eliminate. The crux is short but steep with excellent protection. Climb the thin parallel cracks until forced through the overhang using the right-hand of the two cracks.<br />
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'''Hobo Heart''' 16m HS<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start as for Hysteria. Then after a few metres step left onto the flaky left edge/face and go up this.<br />
==G BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a thin broken buttress, which is quite loose. J. Forsythe climbed Johndarme Bandit VD (also loose). However on the left-hand side of the buttress there are two parallel grooves, the left-hand one ending about 10m up the wall. These give the following two good lines on clean rock:<br />
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'''Les Begs d'Orages''' 22m S<br />''D. Crawley, N. Kielty. 26/5/97.''<br />Start at base of right-hand crack. Up crack and overhang to finish.<br />
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'''Just Eric''' 22m<br />''S D. Crawley (Solo). 26/5/97.''<br />Climb wall 2m left of the previous route to ledge and on up crack to finish.<br />
==H BUTTRESS==<br />
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This culminates in a large overhang and has no routes.<br />
==I BUTTRESS==<br />
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This buttress offers steep climbing and clean routes on good rock and well worth the efforts of a visit. It is split up the centre by a shallow chimney (Shinbone), and lies to the left of H Buttress, being separated by a narrow gully. An obvious scree run also starts from this buttress.<br />
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'''Wings of Desire **''' 25m E2 (5c)<br />''l. Rea, P. Holmes. 29/8/96.''<br />Start at the base of the right arete. Climb crack and flakes up the edge until a series of good holds lead diagonally up left to a large horizontal flake/jug a few metres below the top. Hand traverse horizontally right along this flake to gain edge and finish up this in a great position.<br />
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'''Centrefold''' ** 30m El (5b) <br />''S. Mcllwaine. 187.'' <br />The obvious crack-line up the wall right of Shinbone chimney and is deceptively steep but on fairly positive holds in an exciting position with good protection. Gain large grass ledge at base of corner by any line. Climb corner moving right onto ledge. Follow crack to the top.<br />
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'''Shinbone''' 35m VD<br />''J. Forsythe (Solo). 17/9/83.''<br />Takes the dirty, horrendous looking chimney in the centre of the buttress.<br />
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'''Finger Freeze''' 20m HS (4b)<br />''S. Wheeler, I. Rea. 2/11/86.''<br />Takes the arete at the left-hand end of the buttress. Ascend the lower section of the arete over several steps, and then climb the steeper upper arete. Finish by pulling over a small overhang on good holds.<br />
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'''Frantic Baskit *''' 17m HS (4b)<br />''R. Cole. 21/6/86.''<br />Well protected enjoyable climbing but beware of rope drag. Start just round the corner from Finger Freeze. On the right-hand gully wall is a prominent square-cut corner with a deep crack. Climb crack until the overhang forces you out left and round the corner onto the south face. Continue to top.<br />
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'''BOF''' 12m S (4a)<br />''R. Cole. D. O'Murchu. 6/87.''<br />Start 5m up and left of Frantic Basket. Climb the dog-leg crack to the top, stepping left at the final bulge for extra fun.<br />
==J BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Lies just left of I Buttress.''' Standing at the bottom of I Buttress gully, two vegetated diedres are obvious on J Buttress.<br />
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'''Sullivan''' 15m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the right-hand diedre.<br />
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'''Gilbert''' 15m S (3c)<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the left-hand diedre.<br />
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'''More Letters than Moves''' 15m S (3c) <br />''M. McNiff, V. McCartney. 15/4/89.'' <br />The arete immediately left of Gilbert. K BUTTRESS K Buttress is the long, normally wet, buttress left again which dries after a good spell but is prone to seepage. For the route below gain the spacious grassy platform on the righthand side of the buttress below the steep wall.<br />
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'''High Sierra''' ** 30m E2 (5c)<br />''I. Rea. M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start below the right-hand side of the long, slim, elongated overhang which is about 4m above the ground. Go directly over the overhang at an obvious crack/seam (crux) and follow the fault to the next bulge which gives more difficult moves before the easier wall above is gained.<br />
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''A narrow gully separates K Buttress from L Buttress which is characterised by its three obvious parallel crack/grooves. Left again are three small buttresses M, N and O which provide short but clean climbs and good rock. They are most easily gained from the Lamagan/Cove col.''<br />
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==M BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is the third one right of this col and at its left-hand side is an obvious inverted Y-crack.<br />
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'''Carrying a Torch''' 12m HVS (5a) <br />''G. Murray, I. Rea. 8/91.'' <br />climbs the right-hand branch of this crack.<br />
==O BUTTRESS==<br />
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The first buttress right of the above mentioned col. Near the right-hand side of this buttress is a deep cleft.<br />
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'''City Lights''' 12m VS (4b)<br />''I. Rea, G. Murray. 8/91.)'' <br />climbs the wall just right of this on good horizontal breaks.<br />
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''A distinctive series of small buttresses can be found on the northern slopes of Cove Mountain. Looking from Slieve Beg the lowest right-hand buttress contains two short routes.''<br />
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'''Wish You Were Here''' 20m S (3c)<br />''I. Rea, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb an obvious diedre moving right past a block and up pancake slabs to the base of a corner. Climb this moving left onto a ledge and finish up a short wall.<br />
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'''Wuthering Heights''' 16m S (4a)<br />''I. Rea, D. Walsh, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start just right of the upper corner/arete of lower buttress. Climb up outer face of expanding flake and move left up obvious groove line. On the western slope of Cove is a sliver of slab which points towards the end of Ben Crom reservoir.<br />
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'''Up Yours''' 80m VD<br />''A. Blair (Solo). 31/3/95.''<br />Worth climbing but not worth going to climb. Start at the toe of the slab beside a small boulder. Climb the right side, then up pocks and groove to step left, across damp streak, and up a clean easy rib. Climb the middle of the wet slab to moustache (or avoid it easily on the left) at the base of two fingers of slab. Either climb the right finger (better) or the one on the left.<br />
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==Green Cove==<br />
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The Lower of the East Faces of Upper Cove.<br />
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'''The Inevitable End''' *** 35m E9 7a <br />
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A. Marshall. L Quinn. 4/9/2021<br />
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Upper Coves, Lower East face known by local climbers as “Green Cove” overhangs dismally along its entire length. There are no other routes on this wall.<br />
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Nevertheless, start on top of the big grassy ledge beside a holly bush below the steepest part of the face.<br />
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Climb the wall above moving left through an overlap whilst the holds decease in size up to a very short slab. A long reach allows access onto the slab with a rest and gear.<br />
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Move up and right following a series of good holds until stepping back left to a large flake. From the flake quest along the sloping rightward trending break until a long move leads to the break above. Move left through a series of side pulls and undercuts. Another long move to the break above leads to a good hold and good gear. Move left to the last of the quality climbing up the exposed short arête leading to the finish, above a large ledge.<br />
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The pitch to the top of the crag turns from quality rock to an exposed & loose vertical heather scramble it is only for those with an insatiable thirst for adventure, for the rest descend from the fixed anchor.<br />
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[[File:Upper Cove Green Face 1.jpg|frameless|400x400px]]<br />
[[File:Upper Cove Green Face 2.jpg|alt=|left|frameless|711x711px]]<br />
<br /></div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Upper_Cove&diff=3769Upper Cove2023-06-14T10:39:41Z<p>FHGJDKGH: /* Green Cove */</p>
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<div>This is an excellent mountain crag with a commanding outlook about 800m further up the Annalong Valley from the top of the Lower Cove cliffs. The majority of the routes have a sunny aspect as they are located on south-facing buttresses, generally well protected and certainly worth the fairly energetic walk of about one and a quarter hours (or a leisurely one and a half.) The largest buttress, Fox's Crag, lies to the extreme right-hand end, with a number of smaller buttresses named `B' to `O' (right to left) lying to its left. Round the corner to the right of Fox's Crag is a large steep east facing wall and below this Green Cove, both of which are undeveloped. The smaller buttresses left of Fox's Crag would be the best beginners venue in the Mournes if only the approach was shorter. Also, although the connection along the base of the buttresses could hardly be described as handy it is rewarding to make the effort to go to a number of the crags in a single visit.<br />
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<display_map zoom="14" type="satellite">54.1724, -5.949377~Upper Cove</display_map><br />
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The crag is approached from the car park (345219) at the bottom of the Carrick Little Track as for Lower Cove to the stone sheep-fold. Up the gully on the left edge of Third Corner Buttress, crossing the plateau on -e right side of Cove Lough and up the final steep heather slopes. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the right-hand end of the East Face, and moving down to Fox's Crag, and left to the subsidiary buttresses.<br />
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'''Initiation''' 30m VS+A7<br />''C. Moore, D. Bullock. F. Bullock. 3/4/65.''<br />at the right-hand side of the East Face in the gully at a point where a large section of the face has detached itself. 12m Climb the chimney, formed by the detached face, out of the gully. ' 3m Climb the steep wall above, using aid.<br />
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'''Isis''' 20m HVS (5a, 4c)<br />''R. Cole. M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />Somewhat broken climbing but good strenuous moves, with two pitches used to eliminate rope drag. Start at the left-hand end of the East Face. <br />1) 10m Climb the overhanging groove chimney.<br />2) 10m Climb the wall just right of the arete, then move left round the arete to finish on jugs.<br />
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''Moving left round the corner is Fox's Crag.''<br />
==FOX'S CRAG==<br />
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'''Epiphone''' 48m VS (4c)<br />''F. Devlin, J. Sloan. 27/6/65.''<br />A fine? mixed route! Start just right of the railings at the right-hand side of the crag.<br />1) 15m Climb the crack and move left to perched block belay.<br />2) 15m Climb the wall on the left and step out left onto a sloping ledge. Climb the crack (peg runner) and pull up onto sloping ledge. Climb corner beyond.<br />3) 18m Scramble to top<br />
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The wall to the left of Epiphone has three prominent vertical cracks:<br />
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'''Icarus''' * 33m HVS (5a)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 17/5/80.''<br />This good route takes the right-hand crack with the overhang at the top. The wide crack is easier than it looks from below.<br />1) 15m Follow the crack which to where it widens at the overhang. Hand traverse left under the overhang for 5m to the next crack (Gorgon) which takes you to the top of the wall.<br />2) 18m Scramble to top.<br />
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'''Gorgon''' * 13m E2 (5c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 7/6/80.''<br />A route of a technically reasonable standard but sustained and follows the centre crack petering out two-thirds down. Climb the shallow crack (peg) using holds on the left wall to reach a deep crack. Climb crack above, finishing as for Icarus.<br />
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'''Edge of Darkness''' * 30m VS (5a)<br />''S. Mcllwaine, A. Whitcroft. 20/7/86.''<br />Takes the left-hand crack which is 3m right of the edge. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue up (sustained) to a ledge. Continue easily up arete on left to top, or move right and up to the top.<br />
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'''Midsummer Madness''' * 30m VD<br />''M. McMurray, H. C. Elliott. 22/5/56.''<br />Start at the right-hand edge of the gully (Fertility Gully) which lies just left of Edge of Darkness. Climb the edge and continue up the arete.<br />
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''The main face on Fox's Crag lies just left of Midsummer Madness, being separated from it by Fertility Gully.''<br />
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'''Socialist Slant''' 40m VS (4c)<br />''M. Curran (Solo). 21/5/78.''<br />A delicate start, then a bit scrappy but improves to give a well positioned finish and a grand tour of the face. Start at Fertility Gully. Move up step left and continue left to gain the ramp. Follow this diagonally left to a prominent square-cut niche. Up then trend diagonally left to left-hand edge of face and finish up flakes (as for Revisionist).<br />
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'''St Mawr *''' 45m El (5b)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, K Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A delicate crux but the interest is well maintained through-out. Start just left of Socialist Slant. Climb layback flakes to gain ramp of Socialist Slant and trend left for a few moves, until an obvious traverse line takes you back towards the arete on the right. Gain a ledge via a small spike and, from its left end, make difficult moves up to reach flakes leading to roof. Turn roof on right and continue directly up.<br />
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'''No rest for the Wicked ***''' 35m E5 (6a)<br />''J. Dunne, R. Young (Top-roped prior to first ascent). 2/5/94.''<br />The compelling faint crack/groove line up the middle of the face with a delicate start and then adequate protection. Climb to the series of ledges at quarter height (two old pegs). Using the faint groove and some widely spaced horizontal breaks move delicately up to a deeper `pocket' at half height. Continue cautiously to threequarters height, passing flake on left before the last few moves.<br />
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'''Liberal Thinker **''' 30m E2 (5b/c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 11/10/80.''<br />Open climbing with a serious air. Start the obvious crack and dyke line which is gained by following Revisionist and stepping right to the crack. Climb the right-leaning dyke (peg at two-third height) to the top.<br />A better independent start (l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.) is to take the crack 5m left of St Mawr to gain a clean ledge in the middle of Socialist Slant which is followed leftwards to the dyke.<br />
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'''Revisionist **''' 30m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A fine airy climb with a bold feel. Start on top of the pillar left of Liberal Thinker, best approached from the foot of Needles Eye Gully (to the left). Go up and right via a flake to gain a prominent square-cut niche. Traverse horizontally left to the arete, up a short crack, and finish via flakes.<br />Variation Blow in the Po * E2 (5b) A. Chambers, N. Anderson. 10/4/94. A direct finish to Revisionist which continues up the crack/seam directly from the square-cut niche. This finish can be combined with the variation start to Liberal Thinker to give a good independent route.<br />
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'''Needles Eye Gully *''' 52m<br />''D C. Brims and Party. 23/7/39.''<br />A fine traditional route i.e. normally dripping wet, slimy and manky with an amusing exit for the more portly climber. Start the large vertical gash left of Revisionist.<br />1) 40m Scramble up the sandy floor of the gully. 2) 12m Climb up the back of the gully exiting to right or left.<br />(An alternative finish, mentioned in earlier guides, is the green wall lower down on the left.)<br />
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''The final section of Fox's Crag lies left of Needles Eye Gully.''<br />
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'''The Brucer **''' 25m VS (4b)<br />''R. Cole, M. Smith. 23/6/79.''<br />A pleasantly sustained mountain route with a delicate start. Start underneath a scoop below a roof, 3m left of Needles Eye Gully. Scramble up and climb scoop then move right under the roof. Climb up cracks and grooves to top.<br />
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'''Comic Relief * 2'''0m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, S. Wheeler. 2/11/86.''<br />A pleasant route with a fine finish. Start as for The Brucer. But move left under roof into corner then step back right onto wall. Climb to obvious left-slanting crack and finish delicately along this.<br />
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'''Winding Stair *''' 25m S (4a)<br />''P. Blake, L. Griffin. 17/3/71.''<br />A satisfying route on good positive holds and well protected. Start 2m left of The Brucer. Gain flake left of obvious corner and up to this to ledge below overhang which is turned on its left-hand side. Variation 25m S (3c) Not as good as the original. Gain the corner which is followed until about 3m below the overhang a traverse left leads along a tiny ramp to join the original at the ledge.<br />
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'''The Tiddler''' 21m VD<br />''R. Cole, M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />The route takes a vegetated line between Winding Stair and Shark's Nose. It starts below the left-hand end of the small overhang at half height and takes in a small corner, the left-hand end of the small overhang then moves left and up to finish.<br />
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'''Shark's Nose **''' 45m D<br />''C. Brims (Solo). 17/3/39.''<br />A' classic' climb more or less taking the arete forming the left-hand edge of Fox's Crag and starts just left of the arete.<br />
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'''Little Umbrellas''' 30m HS (4a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />Start about 5m left of Shark's Nose up the gully wall. Climb the thin left trending crack with many horizontal breaks, over a bulge and finish just to the left of the actual Shark's Nose.<br />
==B BUTTRESS==<br />
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B Buttress is the first of the smaller buttresses lying left of Fox's Crag. The climbs on B Buttress start just right of the lowest part of the face, and are described from right to left.<br />
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'''Jaws''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the face. Climb up a blank wall for 3m to a prominent layback flake. Follow to top.<br />
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'''Drop Off''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Jaws. Climb leftwards and up on sloping ledges, then trending right to join the finish of Jaws.<br />
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'''Shamrock''' 50m D<br />''M. Curran (solo). 17/3/71.''<br />Takes the arete at the extreme left of the buttress, being separated from Drop Off by two small grassy bays.<br />
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'''Clover Corner''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson, J. Brown. 12/8/84.''<br />Up the gully left of Shamrock, on the right-hand side is an 8m tower. This route starts just above the broken blocks above the tower. Surmount crumbling flakes and gain the diedre above, then move right onto wall below the roof. Climb up right of the roof onto the terrace above. Move back left out over the gully wall to climb the nose above and finish.<br />
==C BUTTRESS==<br />
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C Buttress lies about 60m to the left, and slightly higher up from B Buttress. The lines lie towards the left-hand end of the crag, with the right-hand end becoming shorter and more vegetated. The first route is the obvious chimney/crack at this right-hand side<br />
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'''Strongarm''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Up chimney/crack until possible to bridge up and past the big flakes (one loose) on good holds, trend right and using a jamming crack climb to belay.<br />
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'''Pendulum''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Strongarm, at obvious groove. Proceed upwards using bridging to reach a poor handhold on right, at a slightly overhanging top portion of the climb.<br />
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'''Roisin Roulette''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, R. Bankhead, R. Young. 11/8/96.''<br />Start 2m left of Pendulum. Climb directly up wall passing jutting block.<br />
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''A few metres left of Roisin Roulette is another groove.''<br />
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'''Lost Province''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Climb the arete left of this groove past two distinctive threads.<br />
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'''Class Struggle *''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''P. Mallon, M. McNiff. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 2m left of Lost Province and 5m right of the left arete of the buttress. Climb the wall into a hanging niche capped by a roof. Pull left out of niche and then right, to the top.<br />
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'''Roughing It''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start just left of Class Struggle. Climb steep wall into shallow scoop, break out left and then go straight up.<br />
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'''Tapestry''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''V. McCartney, D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the groove just right of the left arete of the buttress.<br />
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'''Touch''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start left and around the corner from Tapestry on the gully wall. Take the obvious diagonal line just left of the edge, with the crux low down at the thin cracks.<br />
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==D BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Congor Crack''' 25m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Takes the obvious curving crack on the right just before the buttress becomes shorter and vegetated. Follow crack into and over jutting ledges to mantelshelf finish. Poor belay.<br />
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'''Captains Log''' 25m S<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start at base of crack with delicate tree 6m left of Congor Crack. Up slab and continue up corner to easier rock on the right. Continue to top via blocks and ledges.<br />
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'''Enterprise Ulster''' 25m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 1 m left of Captain's Log at white mark. Trend left to diedre and follow to top<br />
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'''Warp Factor''' 25m S (3c)<br />''D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Start as for Enterprise Ulster. Move right up a short wall at bottom of diedre to gain blunt arete between Captain's Log and Enterprise Ulster.<br />
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'''Dad's Route''' * 40m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.''<br />A route in the finest of alpine traditions which takes the chimney crack on the left-hand end of the buttress, weaving its way through the overhangs. Climb a knobbly wall past a flake overhang at 8m and continue up the chimney with suspect blocks at top (possible belay). Scramble up arete to bivi site behind flake and up the short headwall.<br />
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'''Tish''' 30m VD <br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.'' <br />Start at a slabby flake 10m left of Dad's Route, separated by vegetation. Climb the slab and gain the diedre at 10m. Up the diedre escaping right at top or climb arete on left.<br />
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'''Venus''' 15m VS (4b)<br />''M. Mills. 25/4/82.''<br />The route is usually damp and green, but the grade is for dry conditions should they ever arise - it has been known to happen! Climb the regular green groove 5m along the gully wall from Tish.<br />
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'''White Indian''' ** 30m HS (4b) l<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />A highly recommendable route saving its crux for a grand well protected finale. Start on the buttress across the gully from Venus and left of a small pinnacle. Climb, trending left, the steep, blocky face left of the nose and finish via a short steep, hand crack on the left.<br />
==E BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Trichotomy''' 45m D<br />''J. Forsythe (solo). 5/81.''<br />Takes the left-hand arete of E Buttress.<br />
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'''Nose Cone''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson. J. Brown. 21/4/85.''<br />Start at a small recess half-way up the gully left of Trichotomy. Climb up the recess and surmount the nose cone (crux). Step into a left-trending groove. Climb this for 13m and step right into another groove and follow it to top (loose).<br />
==F BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a small square buttress with a distinctive 'A' shaped recess and lies to the left of E Buttress. There is a small buttress up the gully separating E and F Buttress's.<br />
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'''Juniper Ridge''' 50m VD<br />''J. Forsythe. M. Forsythe, R. Cole. 2/5/86.''<br />1)20m Take a line of ledges from the bottom right to the top left. 2) 30m Follow ridge artificially to top. 2) The short wall to the right of the `A shaped recess provides the following four entertaining routes:<br />
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'''The Geek''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''l. Rea, R. Bankhead, D. Crawley. 24/5/97.''<br />Start 2m right of Apathy League. Go straight up to grass moustache and move up diagonally right to ledge on edge. Come back left a few moves then finish directly via a crack in bulging wall.<br />
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'''Apathy League''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start at two parallel grooves running up (or down) the wall. Climb the grooves directly to the top.<br />
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'''Wine Victim''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start just right of short corner which is at the right arete of the alcove. Step onto small ledge and continue straight up to ledge at 3m (crux). Continue directly up the wall to top.<br />
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'''Pointless Arete''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start the short corner at the right arete of the alcove. Climb the arete, the crux is gaining the obvious ledge just above the corner. At the top bulge step left into the awkward crack.<br />
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''At the left-hand end of the buttress, just right of arete are two thin parallel cracks, with a deeper crack lying just to their right.''<br />
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'''Lysteria''' 16m VS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, T. Hawkins, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the deeper crack to the top.<br />
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'''Hysteria''' 16m E1 (5b)<br />''S. Mcllwaine. 15/3/87.''<br />A good little eliminate. The crux is short but steep with excellent protection. Climb the thin parallel cracks until forced through the overhang using the right-hand of the two cracks.<br />
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'''Hobo Heart''' 16m HS<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start as for Hysteria. Then after a few metres step left onto the flaky left edge/face and go up this.<br />
==G BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a thin broken buttress, which is quite loose. J. Forsythe climbed Johndarme Bandit VD (also loose). However on the left-hand side of the buttress there are two parallel grooves, the left-hand one ending about 10m up the wall. These give the following two good lines on clean rock:<br />
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'''Les Begs d'Orages''' 22m S<br />''D. Crawley, N. Kielty. 26/5/97.''<br />Start at base of right-hand crack. Up crack and overhang to finish.<br />
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'''Just Eric''' 22m<br />''S D. Crawley (Solo). 26/5/97.''<br />Climb wall 2m left of the previous route to ledge and on up crack to finish.<br />
==H BUTTRESS==<br />
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This culminates in a large overhang and has no routes.<br />
==I BUTTRESS==<br />
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This buttress offers steep climbing and clean routes on good rock and well worth the efforts of a visit. It is split up the centre by a shallow chimney (Shinbone), and lies to the left of H Buttress, being separated by a narrow gully. An obvious scree run also starts from this buttress.<br />
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'''Wings of Desire **''' 25m E2 (5c)<br />''l. Rea, P. Holmes. 29/8/96.''<br />Start at the base of the right arete. Climb crack and flakes up the edge until a series of good holds lead diagonally up left to a large horizontal flake/jug a few metres below the top. Hand traverse horizontally right along this flake to gain edge and finish up this in a great position.<br />
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'''Centrefold''' ** 30m El (5b) <br />''S. Mcllwaine. 187.'' <br />The obvious crack-line up the wall right of Shinbone chimney and is deceptively steep but on fairly positive holds in an exciting position with good protection. Gain large grass ledge at base of corner by any line. Climb corner moving right onto ledge. Follow crack to the top.<br />
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'''Shinbone''' 35m VD<br />''J. Forsythe (Solo). 17/9/83.''<br />Takes the dirty, horrendous looking chimney in the centre of the buttress.<br />
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'''Finger Freeze''' 20m HS (4b)<br />''S. Wheeler, I. Rea. 2/11/86.''<br />Takes the arete at the left-hand end of the buttress. Ascend the lower section of the arete over several steps, and then climb the steeper upper arete. Finish by pulling over a small overhang on good holds.<br />
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'''Frantic Baskit *''' 17m HS (4b)<br />''R. Cole. 21/6/86.''<br />Well protected enjoyable climbing but beware of rope drag. Start just round the corner from Finger Freeze. On the right-hand gully wall is a prominent square-cut corner with a deep crack. Climb crack until the overhang forces you out left and round the corner onto the south face. Continue to top.<br />
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'''BOF''' 12m S (4a)<br />''R. Cole. D. O'Murchu. 6/87.''<br />Start 5m up and left of Frantic Basket. Climb the dog-leg crack to the top, stepping left at the final bulge for extra fun.<br />
==J BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Lies just left of I Buttress.''' Standing at the bottom of I Buttress gully, two vegetated diedres are obvious on J Buttress.<br />
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'''Sullivan''' 15m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the right-hand diedre.<br />
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'''Gilbert''' 15m S (3c)<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the left-hand diedre.<br />
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'''More Letters than Moves''' 15m S (3c) <br />''M. McNiff, V. McCartney. 15/4/89.'' <br />The arete immediately left of Gilbert. K BUTTRESS K Buttress is the long, normally wet, buttress left again which dries after a good spell but is prone to seepage. For the route below gain the spacious grassy platform on the righthand side of the buttress below the steep wall.<br />
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'''High Sierra''' ** 30m E2 (5c)<br />''I. Rea. M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start below the right-hand side of the long, slim, elongated overhang which is about 4m above the ground. Go directly over the overhang at an obvious crack/seam (crux) and follow the fault to the next bulge which gives more difficult moves before the easier wall above is gained.<br />
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''A narrow gully separates K Buttress from L Buttress which is characterised by its three obvious parallel crack/grooves. Left again are three small buttresses M, N and O which provide short but clean climbs and good rock. They are most easily gained from the Lamagan/Cove col.''<br />
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==M BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is the third one right of this col and at its left-hand side is an obvious inverted Y-crack.<br />
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'''Carrying a Torch''' 12m HVS (5a) <br />''G. Murray, I. Rea. 8/91.'' <br />climbs the right-hand branch of this crack.<br />
==O BUTTRESS==<br />
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The first buttress right of the above mentioned col. Near the right-hand side of this buttress is a deep cleft.<br />
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'''City Lights''' 12m VS (4b)<br />''I. Rea, G. Murray. 8/91.)'' <br />climbs the wall just right of this on good horizontal breaks.<br />
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''A distinctive series of small buttresses can be found on the northern slopes of Cove Mountain. Looking from Slieve Beg the lowest right-hand buttress contains two short routes.''<br />
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'''Wish You Were Here''' 20m S (3c)<br />''I. Rea, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb an obvious diedre moving right past a block and up pancake slabs to the base of a corner. Climb this moving left onto a ledge and finish up a short wall.<br />
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'''Wuthering Heights''' 16m S (4a)<br />''I. Rea, D. Walsh, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start just right of the upper corner/arete of lower buttress. Climb up outer face of expanding flake and move left up obvious groove line. On the western slope of Cove is a sliver of slab which points towards the end of Ben Crom reservoir.<br />
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'''Up Yours''' 80m VD<br />''A. Blair (Solo). 31/3/95.''<br />Worth climbing but not worth going to climb. Start at the toe of the slab beside a small boulder. Climb the right side, then up pocks and groove to step left, across damp streak, and up a clean easy rib. Climb the middle of the wet slab to moustache (or avoid it easily on the left) at the base of two fingers of slab. Either climb the right finger (better) or the one on the left.<br />
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==Green Cove==<br />
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The Lower of the East Faces of Upper Cove.<br />
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'''The Inevitable End''' *** 35m E9 7a <br />
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A. Marshall. L Quinn. 4/9/2021<br />
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Upper Coves, Lower East face known by local climbers as “Green Cove” overhangs dismally along its entire length. There are no other routes on this wall.<br />
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Nevertheless, start on top of the big grassy ledge beside a holly bush below the steepest part of the face.<br />
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Climb the wall above moving left through an overlap whilst the holds decease in size up to a very short slab. A long reach allows access onto the slab with a rest and gear.<br />
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Move up and right following a series of good holds until stepping back left to a large flake. From the flake quest along the sloping rightward trending break until a long move leads to the break above. Move left through a series of side pulls and undercuts. Another long move to the break above leads to a good hold and good gear. Move left to the last of the quality climbing up the exposed short arête leading to the finish, above a large ledge.<br />
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The pitch to the top of the crag turns from quality rock to an exposed & loose vertical heather scramble it is only for those with an insatiable thirst for adventure, for the rest descend from the fixed anchor.<br />
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[[File:Upper Cove Green Face 1.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
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<br /></div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:Upper_Cove_Green_Face_3.jpg&diff=3768File:Upper Cove Green Face 3.jpg2023-06-14T10:39:32Z<p>FHGJDKGH: </p>
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<div>Green Cove</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:Upper_Cove_Green_Face_2.jpg&diff=3767File:Upper Cove Green Face 2.jpg2023-06-14T10:38:50Z<p>FHGJDKGH: </p>
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<div>Upper Cove Green Face 2</div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Upper_Cove&diff=3766Upper Cove2023-06-14T10:37:19Z<p>FHGJDKGH: /* Green Cove */</p>
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<div>This is an excellent mountain crag with a commanding outlook about 800m further up the Annalong Valley from the top of the Lower Cove cliffs. The majority of the routes have a sunny aspect as they are located on south-facing buttresses, generally well protected and certainly worth the fairly energetic walk of about one and a quarter hours (or a leisurely one and a half.) The largest buttress, Fox's Crag, lies to the extreme right-hand end, with a number of smaller buttresses named `B' to `O' (right to left) lying to its left. Round the corner to the right of Fox's Crag is a large steep east facing wall and below this Green Cove, both of which are undeveloped. The smaller buttresses left of Fox's Crag would be the best beginners venue in the Mournes if only the approach was shorter. Also, although the connection along the base of the buttresses could hardly be described as handy it is rewarding to make the effort to go to a number of the crags in a single visit.<br />
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<display_map zoom="14" type="satellite">54.1724, -5.949377~Upper Cove</display_map><br />
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The crag is approached from the car park (345219) at the bottom of the Carrick Little Track as for Lower Cove to the stone sheep-fold. Up the gully on the left edge of Third Corner Buttress, crossing the plateau on -e right side of Cove Lough and up the final steep heather slopes. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the right-hand end of the East Face, and moving down to Fox's Crag, and left to the subsidiary buttresses.<br />
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'''Initiation''' 30m VS+A7<br />''C. Moore, D. Bullock. F. Bullock. 3/4/65.''<br />at the right-hand side of the East Face in the gully at a point where a large section of the face has detached itself. 12m Climb the chimney, formed by the detached face, out of the gully. ' 3m Climb the steep wall above, using aid.<br />
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'''Isis''' 20m HVS (5a, 4c)<br />''R. Cole. M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />Somewhat broken climbing but good strenuous moves, with two pitches used to eliminate rope drag. Start at the left-hand end of the East Face. <br />1) 10m Climb the overhanging groove chimney.<br />2) 10m Climb the wall just right of the arete, then move left round the arete to finish on jugs.<br />
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''Moving left round the corner is Fox's Crag.''<br />
==FOX'S CRAG==<br />
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'''Epiphone''' 48m VS (4c)<br />''F. Devlin, J. Sloan. 27/6/65.''<br />A fine? mixed route! Start just right of the railings at the right-hand side of the crag.<br />1) 15m Climb the crack and move left to perched block belay.<br />2) 15m Climb the wall on the left and step out left onto a sloping ledge. Climb the crack (peg runner) and pull up onto sloping ledge. Climb corner beyond.<br />3) 18m Scramble to top<br />
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The wall to the left of Epiphone has three prominent vertical cracks:<br />
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'''Icarus''' * 33m HVS (5a)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 17/5/80.''<br />This good route takes the right-hand crack with the overhang at the top. The wide crack is easier than it looks from below.<br />1) 15m Follow the crack which to where it widens at the overhang. Hand traverse left under the overhang for 5m to the next crack (Gorgon) which takes you to the top of the wall.<br />2) 18m Scramble to top.<br />
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'''Gorgon''' * 13m E2 (5c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 7/6/80.''<br />A route of a technically reasonable standard but sustained and follows the centre crack petering out two-thirds down. Climb the shallow crack (peg) using holds on the left wall to reach a deep crack. Climb crack above, finishing as for Icarus.<br />
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'''Edge of Darkness''' * 30m VS (5a)<br />''S. Mcllwaine, A. Whitcroft. 20/7/86.''<br />Takes the left-hand crack which is 3m right of the edge. Gain the crack with difficulty and continue up (sustained) to a ledge. Continue easily up arete on left to top, or move right and up to the top.<br />
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'''Midsummer Madness''' * 30m VD<br />''M. McMurray, H. C. Elliott. 22/5/56.''<br />Start at the right-hand edge of the gully (Fertility Gully) which lies just left of Edge of Darkness. Climb the edge and continue up the arete.<br />
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''The main face on Fox's Crag lies just left of Midsummer Madness, being separated from it by Fertility Gully.''<br />
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'''Socialist Slant''' 40m VS (4c)<br />''M. Curran (Solo). 21/5/78.''<br />A delicate start, then a bit scrappy but improves to give a well positioned finish and a grand tour of the face. Start at Fertility Gully. Move up step left and continue left to gain the ramp. Follow this diagonally left to a prominent square-cut niche. Up then trend diagonally left to left-hand edge of face and finish up flakes (as for Revisionist).<br />
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'''St Mawr *''' 45m El (5b)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, K Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A delicate crux but the interest is well maintained through-out. Start just left of Socialist Slant. Climb layback flakes to gain ramp of Socialist Slant and trend left for a few moves, until an obvious traverse line takes you back towards the arete on the right. Gain a ledge via a small spike and, from its left end, make difficult moves up to reach flakes leading to roof. Turn roof on right and continue directly up.<br />
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'''No rest for the Wicked ***''' 35m E5 (6a)<br />''J. Dunne, R. Young (Top-roped prior to first ascent). 2/5/94.''<br />The compelling faint crack/groove line up the middle of the face with a delicate start and then adequate protection. Climb to the series of ledges at quarter height (two old pegs). Using the faint groove and some widely spaced horizontal breaks move delicately up to a deeper `pocket' at half height. Continue cautiously to threequarters height, passing flake on left before the last few moves.<br />
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'''Liberal Thinker **''' 30m E2 (5b/c)<br />''M. Smith, R. Cole. 11/10/80.''<br />Open climbing with a serious air. Start the obvious crack and dyke line which is gained by following Revisionist and stepping right to the crack. Climb the right-leaning dyke (peg at two-third height) to the top.<br />A better independent start (l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.) is to take the crack 5m left of St Mawr to gain a clean ledge in the middle of Socialist Slant which is followed leftwards to the dyke.<br />
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'''Revisionist **''' 30m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 6/9/86.''<br />A fine airy climb with a bold feel. Start on top of the pillar left of Liberal Thinker, best approached from the foot of Needles Eye Gully (to the left). Go up and right via a flake to gain a prominent square-cut niche. Traverse horizontally left to the arete, up a short crack, and finish via flakes.<br />Variation Blow in the Po * E2 (5b) A. Chambers, N. Anderson. 10/4/94. A direct finish to Revisionist which continues up the crack/seam directly from the square-cut niche. This finish can be combined with the variation start to Liberal Thinker to give a good independent route.<br />
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'''Needles Eye Gully *''' 52m<br />''D C. Brims and Party. 23/7/39.''<br />A fine traditional route i.e. normally dripping wet, slimy and manky with an amusing exit for the more portly climber. Start the large vertical gash left of Revisionist.<br />1) 40m Scramble up the sandy floor of the gully. 2) 12m Climb up the back of the gully exiting to right or left.<br />(An alternative finish, mentioned in earlier guides, is the green wall lower down on the left.)<br />
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''The final section of Fox's Crag lies left of Needles Eye Gully.''<br />
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'''The Brucer **''' 25m VS (4b)<br />''R. Cole, M. Smith. 23/6/79.''<br />A pleasantly sustained mountain route with a delicate start. Start underneath a scoop below a roof, 3m left of Needles Eye Gully. Scramble up and climb scoop then move right under the roof. Climb up cracks and grooves to top.<br />
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'''Comic Relief * 2'''0m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, S. Wheeler. 2/11/86.''<br />A pleasant route with a fine finish. Start as for The Brucer. But move left under roof into corner then step back right onto wall. Climb to obvious left-slanting crack and finish delicately along this.<br />
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'''Winding Stair *''' 25m S (4a)<br />''P. Blake, L. Griffin. 17/3/71.''<br />A satisfying route on good positive holds and well protected. Start 2m left of The Brucer. Gain flake left of obvious corner and up to this to ledge below overhang which is turned on its left-hand side. Variation 25m S (3c) Not as good as the original. Gain the corner which is followed until about 3m below the overhang a traverse left leads along a tiny ramp to join the original at the ledge.<br />
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'''The Tiddler''' 21m VD<br />''R. Cole, M. Mills. 14/8/81.''<br />The route takes a vegetated line between Winding Stair and Shark's Nose. It starts below the left-hand end of the small overhang at half height and takes in a small corner, the left-hand end of the small overhang then moves left and up to finish.<br />
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'''Shark's Nose **''' 45m D<br />''C. Brims (Solo). 17/3/39.''<br />A' classic' climb more or less taking the arete forming the left-hand edge of Fox's Crag and starts just left of the arete.<br />
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'''Little Umbrellas''' 30m HS (4a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />Start about 5m left of Shark's Nose up the gully wall. Climb the thin left trending crack with many horizontal breaks, over a bulge and finish just to the left of the actual Shark's Nose.<br />
==B BUTTRESS==<br />
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B Buttress is the first of the smaller buttresses lying left of Fox's Crag. The climbs on B Buttress start just right of the lowest part of the face, and are described from right to left.<br />
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'''Jaws''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the face. Climb up a blank wall for 3m to a prominent layback flake. Follow to top.<br />
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'''Drop Off''' 20m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Jaws. Climb leftwards and up on sloping ledges, then trending right to join the finish of Jaws.<br />
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'''Shamrock''' 50m D<br />''M. Curran (solo). 17/3/71.''<br />Takes the arete at the extreme left of the buttress, being separated from Drop Off by two small grassy bays.<br />
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'''Clover Corner''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson, J. Brown. 12/8/84.''<br />Up the gully left of Shamrock, on the right-hand side is an 8m tower. This route starts just above the broken blocks above the tower. Surmount crumbling flakes and gain the diedre above, then move right onto wall below the roof. Climb up right of the roof onto the terrace above. Move back left out over the gully wall to climb the nose above and finish.<br />
==C BUTTRESS==<br />
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C Buttress lies about 60m to the left, and slightly higher up from B Buttress. The lines lie towards the left-hand end of the crag, with the right-hand end becoming shorter and more vegetated. The first route is the obvious chimney/crack at this right-hand side<br />
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'''Strongarm''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Up chimney/crack until possible to bridge up and past the big flakes (one loose) on good holds, trend right and using a jamming crack climb to belay.<br />
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'''Pendulum''' 15m S (3c)<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start 2m left of Strongarm, at obvious groove. Proceed upwards using bridging to reach a poor handhold on right, at a slightly overhanging top portion of the climb.<br />
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'''Roisin Roulette''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, R. Bankhead, R. Young. 11/8/96.''<br />Start 2m left of Pendulum. Climb directly up wall passing jutting block.<br />
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''A few metres left of Roisin Roulette is another groove.''<br />
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'''Lost Province''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Climb the arete left of this groove past two distinctive threads.<br />
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'''Class Struggle *''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''P. Mallon, M. McNiff. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 2m left of Lost Province and 5m right of the left arete of the buttress. Climb the wall into a hanging niche capped by a roof. Pull left out of niche and then right, to the top.<br />
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'''Roughing It''' 15m HVS (5a)<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start just left of Class Struggle. Climb steep wall into shallow scoop, break out left and then go straight up.<br />
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'''Tapestry''' 15m HS (4b)<br />''V. McCartney, D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the groove just right of the left arete of the buttress.<br />
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'''Touch''' 15m VS (4c)<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 20/4/97.''<br />Start left and around the corner from Tapestry on the gully wall. Take the obvious diagonal line just left of the edge, with the crux low down at the thin cracks.<br />
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==D BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Congor Crack''' 25m VD<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Takes the obvious curving crack on the right just before the buttress becomes shorter and vegetated. Follow crack into and over jutting ledges to mantelshelf finish. Poor belay.<br />
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'''Captains Log''' 25m S<br />''NIMC Group. 3/5/80.''<br />Start at base of crack with delicate tree 6m left of Congor Crack. Up slab and continue up corner to easier rock on the right. Continue to top via blocks and ledges.<br />
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'''Enterprise Ulster''' 25m HS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Start 1 m left of Captain's Log at white mark. Trend left to diedre and follow to top<br />
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'''Warp Factor''' 25m S (3c)<br />''D. Stelfox. 15/4/89.''<br />Start as for Enterprise Ulster. Move right up a short wall at bottom of diedre to gain blunt arete between Captain's Log and Enterprise Ulster.<br />
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'''Dad's Route''' * 40m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.''<br />A route in the finest of alpine traditions which takes the chimney crack on the left-hand end of the buttress, weaving its way through the overhangs. Climb a knobbly wall past a flake overhang at 8m and continue up the chimney with suspect blocks at top (possible belay). Scramble up arete to bivi site behind flake and up the short headwall.<br />
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'''Tish''' 30m VD <br />''J. Forsythe, R. Cole, M. Smith. 7/6/80.'' <br />Start at a slabby flake 10m left of Dad's Route, separated by vegetation. Climb the slab and gain the diedre at 10m. Up the diedre escaping right at top or climb arete on left.<br />
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'''Venus''' 15m VS (4b)<br />''M. Mills. 25/4/82.''<br />The route is usually damp and green, but the grade is for dry conditions should they ever arise - it has been known to happen! Climb the regular green groove 5m along the gully wall from Tish.<br />
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'''White Indian''' ** 30m HS (4b) l<br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 18/6/95.''<br />A highly recommendable route saving its crux for a grand well protected finale. Start on the buttress across the gully from Venus and left of a small pinnacle. Climb, trending left, the steep, blocky face left of the nose and finish via a short steep, hand crack on the left.<br />
==E BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Trichotomy''' 45m D<br />''J. Forsythe (solo). 5/81.''<br />Takes the left-hand arete of E Buttress.<br />
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'''Nose Cone''' 25m VD<br />''T. Wilson. J. Brown. 21/4/85.''<br />Start at a small recess half-way up the gully left of Trichotomy. Climb up the recess and surmount the nose cone (crux). Step into a left-trending groove. Climb this for 13m and step right into another groove and follow it to top (loose).<br />
==F BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a small square buttress with a distinctive 'A' shaped recess and lies to the left of E Buttress. There is a small buttress up the gully separating E and F Buttress's.<br />
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'''Juniper Ridge''' 50m VD<br />''J. Forsythe. M. Forsythe, R. Cole. 2/5/86.''<br />1)20m Take a line of ledges from the bottom right to the top left. 2) 30m Follow ridge artificially to top. 2) The short wall to the right of the `A shaped recess provides the following four entertaining routes:<br />
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'''The Geek''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''l. Rea, R. Bankhead, D. Crawley. 24/5/97.''<br />Start 2m right of Apathy League. Go straight up to grass moustache and move up diagonally right to ledge on edge. Come back left a few moves then finish directly via a crack in bulging wall.<br />
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'''Apathy League''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start at two parallel grooves running up (or down) the wall. Climb the grooves directly to the top.<br />
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'''Wine Victim''' 16m VS (4c)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start just right of short corner which is at the right arete of the alcove. Step onto small ledge and continue straight up to ledge at 3m (crux). Continue directly up the wall to top.<br />
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'''Pointless Arete''' 16m HVS (5a)<br />''R. Bankhead, T. Fallon. 4/7/92.''<br />Start the short corner at the right arete of the alcove. Climb the arete, the crux is gaining the obvious ledge just above the corner. At the top bulge step left into the awkward crack.<br />
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''At the left-hand end of the buttress, just right of arete are two thin parallel cracks, with a deeper crack lying just to their right.''<br />
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'''Lysteria''' 16m VS (4b)<br />''P. Mallon, T. Hawkins, M. Wallace. 15/4/89.''<br />Climb the deeper crack to the top.<br />
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'''Hysteria''' 16m E1 (5b)<br />''S. Mcllwaine. 15/3/87.''<br />A good little eliminate. The crux is short but steep with excellent protection. Climb the thin parallel cracks until forced through the overhang using the right-hand of the two cracks.<br />
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'''Hobo Heart''' 16m HS<br />''l. Rea, M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start as for Hysteria. Then after a few metres step left onto the flaky left edge/face and go up this.<br />
==G BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is a thin broken buttress, which is quite loose. J. Forsythe climbed Johndarme Bandit VD (also loose). However on the left-hand side of the buttress there are two parallel grooves, the left-hand one ending about 10m up the wall. These give the following two good lines on clean rock:<br />
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'''Les Begs d'Orages''' 22m S<br />''D. Crawley, N. Kielty. 26/5/97.''<br />Start at base of right-hand crack. Up crack and overhang to finish.<br />
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'''Just Eric''' 22m<br />''S D. Crawley (Solo). 26/5/97.''<br />Climb wall 2m left of the previous route to ledge and on up crack to finish.<br />
==H BUTTRESS==<br />
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This culminates in a large overhang and has no routes.<br />
==I BUTTRESS==<br />
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This buttress offers steep climbing and clean routes on good rock and well worth the efforts of a visit. It is split up the centre by a shallow chimney (Shinbone), and lies to the left of H Buttress, being separated by a narrow gully. An obvious scree run also starts from this buttress.<br />
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'''Wings of Desire **''' 25m E2 (5c)<br />''l. Rea, P. Holmes. 29/8/96.''<br />Start at the base of the right arete. Climb crack and flakes up the edge until a series of good holds lead diagonally up left to a large horizontal flake/jug a few metres below the top. Hand traverse horizontally right along this flake to gain edge and finish up this in a great position.<br />
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'''Centrefold''' ** 30m El (5b) <br />''S. Mcllwaine. 187.'' <br />The obvious crack-line up the wall right of Shinbone chimney and is deceptively steep but on fairly positive holds in an exciting position with good protection. Gain large grass ledge at base of corner by any line. Climb corner moving right onto ledge. Follow crack to the top.<br />
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'''Shinbone''' 35m VD<br />''J. Forsythe (Solo). 17/9/83.''<br />Takes the dirty, horrendous looking chimney in the centre of the buttress.<br />
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'''Finger Freeze''' 20m HS (4b)<br />''S. Wheeler, I. Rea. 2/11/86.''<br />Takes the arete at the left-hand end of the buttress. Ascend the lower section of the arete over several steps, and then climb the steeper upper arete. Finish by pulling over a small overhang on good holds.<br />
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'''Frantic Baskit *''' 17m HS (4b)<br />''R. Cole. 21/6/86.''<br />Well protected enjoyable climbing but beware of rope drag. Start just round the corner from Finger Freeze. On the right-hand gully wall is a prominent square-cut corner with a deep crack. Climb crack until the overhang forces you out left and round the corner onto the south face. Continue to top.<br />
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'''BOF''' 12m S (4a)<br />''R. Cole. D. O'Murchu. 6/87.''<br />Start 5m up and left of Frantic Basket. Climb the dog-leg crack to the top, stepping left at the final bulge for extra fun.<br />
==J BUTTRESS==<br />
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'''Lies just left of I Buttress.''' Standing at the bottom of I Buttress gully, two vegetated diedres are obvious on J Buttress.<br />
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'''Sullivan''' 15m VD<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the right-hand diedre.<br />
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'''Gilbert''' 15m S (3c)<br />''J. Forsythe, M. Curran. 20/3/82.''<br />Takes the left-hand diedre.<br />
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'''More Letters than Moves''' 15m S (3c) <br />''M. McNiff, V. McCartney. 15/4/89.'' <br />The arete immediately left of Gilbert. K BUTTRESS K Buttress is the long, normally wet, buttress left again which dries after a good spell but is prone to seepage. For the route below gain the spacious grassy platform on the righthand side of the buttress below the steep wall.<br />
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'''High Sierra''' ** 30m E2 (5c)<br />''I. Rea. M. Rea, P. Wells. 3/5/97.''<br />Start below the right-hand side of the long, slim, elongated overhang which is about 4m above the ground. Go directly over the overhang at an obvious crack/seam (crux) and follow the fault to the next bulge which gives more difficult moves before the easier wall above is gained.<br />
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''A narrow gully separates K Buttress from L Buttress which is characterised by its three obvious parallel crack/grooves. Left again are three small buttresses M, N and O which provide short but clean climbs and good rock. They are most easily gained from the Lamagan/Cove col.''<br />
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==M BUTTRESS==<br />
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This is the third one right of this col and at its left-hand side is an obvious inverted Y-crack.<br />
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'''Carrying a Torch''' 12m HVS (5a) <br />''G. Murray, I. Rea. 8/91.'' <br />climbs the right-hand branch of this crack.<br />
==O BUTTRESS==<br />
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The first buttress right of the above mentioned col. Near the right-hand side of this buttress is a deep cleft.<br />
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'''City Lights''' 12m VS (4b)<br />''I. Rea, G. Murray. 8/91.)'' <br />climbs the wall just right of this on good horizontal breaks.<br />
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''A distinctive series of small buttresses can be found on the northern slopes of Cove Mountain. Looking from Slieve Beg the lowest right-hand buttress contains two short routes.''<br />
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'''Wish You Were Here''' 20m S (3c)<br />''I. Rea, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. Climb an obvious diedre moving right past a block and up pancake slabs to the base of a corner. Climb this moving left onto a ledge and finish up a short wall.<br />
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'''Wuthering Heights''' 16m S (4a)<br />''I. Rea, D. Walsh, D. Carson. 28/10/78.''<br />Start just right of the upper corner/arete of lower buttress. Climb up outer face of expanding flake and move left up obvious groove line. On the western slope of Cove is a sliver of slab which points towards the end of Ben Crom reservoir.<br />
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'''Up Yours''' 80m VD<br />''A. Blair (Solo). 31/3/95.''<br />Worth climbing but not worth going to climb. Start at the toe of the slab beside a small boulder. Climb the right side, then up pocks and groove to step left, across damp streak, and up a clean easy rib. Climb the middle of the wet slab to moustache (or avoid it easily on the left) at the base of two fingers of slab. Either climb the right finger (better) or the one on the left.<br />
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==Green Cove==<br />
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The Lower of the East Faces of Upper Cove.<br />
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'''The Inevitable End''' *** 35m E9 7a <br />
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A. Marshall. L Quinn. 4/9/2021<br />
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Upper Coves, Lower East face known by local climbers as “Green Cove” overhangs dismally along its entire length. There are no other routes on this wall.<br />
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Nevertheless, start on top of the big grassy ledge beside a holly bush below the steepest part of the face.<br />
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Climb the wall above moving left through an overlap whilst the holds decease in size up to a very short slab. A long reach allows access onto the slab with a rest and gear.<br />
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Move up and right following a series of good holds until stepping back left to a large flake. From the flake quest along the sloping rightward trending break until a long move leads to the break above. Move left through a series of side pulls and undercuts. Another long move to the break above leads to a good hold and good gear. Move left to the last of the quality climbing up the exposed short arête leading to the finish, above a large ledge.<br />
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The pitch to the top of the crag turns from quality rock to an exposed & loose vertical heather scramble it is only for those with an insatiable thirst for adventure, for the rest descend from the fixed anchor.<br />
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[[File:Upper Cove Green Face 1.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
<br /></div>FHGJDKGHhttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:Upper_Cove_Green_Face_1.jpg&diff=3765File:Upper Cove Green Face 1.jpg2023-06-14T10:34:23Z<p>FHGJDKGH: </p>
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<div>Green Cove Image 1</div>FHGJDKGH