Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Irish Climbing Wiki

2025-12-05T15:59:11Z

Daveh:

<s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s>

<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s>

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Fanore|Fanore More]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Moneen]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]]

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

[[Coolrakan Quarry]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Lamb's Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Swiss Valley]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

[[Clogherhead]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]

[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]

[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Great Sugar Loaf]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

__FORCETOC__
__INDEX__
__NEWSECTIONLINK__

Irish Climbing Wiki

2025-12-05T15:57:54Z

Daveh:

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Fanore|Fanore More]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Moneen]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]]

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

[[Coolrakan Quarry]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Lamb's Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Swiss Valley]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

[[Clogherhead]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]

[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]

[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Great Sugar Loaf]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

__FORCETOC__
__INDEX__
__NEWSECTIONLINK__

Irish Climbing Wiki

2025-05-22T08:02:42Z

Daveh:

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Fanore]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Moneen]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]]

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

[[Coolrakan Quarry]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Lamb's Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

[[Swiss Valley]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]

[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]

[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Great Sugar Loaf]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

__FORCETOC__
__INDEX__
__NEWSECTIONLINK__

Coreen More

2024-10-01T21:56:11Z

Daveh:

Location

This crag is located in the Wild Nephin National Park, on the Northern end of Coreen More ridge,

F956 079.

From Newport, take the N59 to Mulranny/Achill. Shortly after leaving the town, turn right to the

L1402 to Furnace. Continue for approximately 12 km, and then turn left to the Broghan Carroll

Bothy/Letterkeen Trailhead. Park there. Follow the marks for the Western Way North on the forestry

road. Follow the road for approximately 40 minutes. Then, take the trail into the col between Coreen

More and Coreen Beg. Walk past the highest point on the trail, and the crag will become visible from

the path on the left. Cut through the bog to the crag.

Although the crag is situated almost right in the middle of the Letterkeen Loop/Bothy Loop, the

western side of Coreen More is boggy and more difficult, approaching it from that side is not

advised.
[[File:Coreen1.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|Location|alt=]]
Character

It is a short, 9m crag perfect for learning leading trad. Routes vary from Diff to HS, varied protection

is required, thus it is a perfect learning ground. The rock above provides some protection for

anchors, however, cams or tricams are necessary. As these types of protection tend to walk,

constant supervision is required. Hence, the crag is not suitable for bottom roping.
[[File:Coreen2.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|Coreen More Topo]]

Routes described left to right

1. Cheap Flights, HS, J.Gruszczyk, C. Murray, 7.09.24

Start just right from the corner, climb the overhang to the corner between the overhanging

rock. Scramble carefully on the grass to reach the anchor point.

2. Yekaterina Direct, Diff., A. Souček, J. Gruszczyk, 9.03.24

Start on good holds directly below the corner between the overhanging rock and the slab.

Then, climb the corner. Excellent protection.

3. Balconi, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

Start on good holds 1m right from Yekaterina Direct, climb straight up.

4. Pootfath, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

The line directly in the middle of the slab. Excellent climbing on good holds, and much easier

than it looks, but the first good piece of protection is half way up.

5. Knees Up Mother Brown, V.Diff., I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 16.09.24

Climb 1m right from Pootfath.

6. Deception, Severe, C. Murray, J. Gruszczyk, 7.09.24

Bouldery, risky start. Start on the arete and veer slightly left when you reach mid-height.

Coreen More

2024-10-01T21:55:12Z

Daveh:

Location

This crag is located in the Wild Nephin National Park, on the Northern end of Coreen More ridge,

F956 079.

From Newport, take the N59 to Mulranny/Achill. Shortly after leaving the town, turn right to the

L1402 to Furnace. Continue for approximately 12 km, and then turn left to the Broghan Carroll

Bothy/Letterkeen Trailhead. Park there. Follow the marks for the Western Way North on the forestry

road. Follow the road for approximately 40 minutes. Then, take the trail into the col between Coreen

More and Coreen Beg. Walk past the highest point on the trail, and the crag will become visible from

the path on the left. Cut through the bog to the crag.

Although the crag is situated almost right in the middle of the Letterkeen Loop/Bothy Loop, the

western side of Coreen More is boggy and more difficult, approaching it from that side is not

advised.
[[File:Coreen1.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|Location]]
Character

It is a short, 9m crag perfect for learning leading trad. Routes vary from Diff to HS, varied protection

is required, thus it is a perfect learning ground. The rock above provides some protection for

anchors, however, cams or tricams are necessary. As these types of protection tend to walk,

constant supervision is required. Hence, the crag is not suitable for bottom roping.
[[File:Coreen2.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|Coreen More Topo]]

Routes described left to right

1. Cheap Flights, HS, J.Gruszczyk, C. Murray, 7.09.24

Start just right from the corner, climb the overhang to the corner between the overhanging

rock. Scramble carefully on the grass to reach the anchor point.

2. Yekaterina Direct, Diff., A. Souček, J. Gruszczyk, 9.03.24

Start on good holds directly below the corner between the overhanging rock and the slab.

Then, climb the corner. Excellent protection.

3. Balconi, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

Start on good holds 1m right from Yekaterina Direct, climb straight up.

4. Pootfath, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

The line directly in the middle of the slab. Excellent climbing on good holds, and much easier

than it looks, but the first good piece of protection is half way up.

5. Knees Up Mother Brown, V.Diff., I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 16.09.24

Climb 1m right from Pootfath.

6. Deception, Severe, C. Murray, J. Gruszczyk, 7.09.24

Bouldery, risky start. Start on the arete and veer slightly left when you reach mid-height.

File:Coreen2.jpg

2024-10-01T21:54:25Z

Daveh:

Coreen More Topo

File:Coreen1.jpg

2024-10-01T21:52:59Z

Daveh:

Coreen More

2024-10-01T21:48:06Z

Daveh: Initial version of the page. Submitted by Justyna Gruszczy.

Location

This crag is located in the Wild Nephin National Park, on the Northern end of Coreen More ridge,

F956 079.

From Newport, take the N59 to Mulranny/Achill. Shortly after leaving the town, turn right to the

L1402 to Furnace. Continue for approximately 12 km, and then turn left to the Broghan Carroll

Bothy/Letterkeen Trailhead. Park there. Follow the marks for the Western Way North on the forestry

road. Follow the road for approximately 40 minutes. Then, take the trail into the col between Coreen

More and Coreen Beg. Walk past the highest point on the trail, and the crag will become visible from

the path on the left. Cut through the bog to the crag.

Although the crag is situated almost right in the middle of the Letterkeen Loop/Bothy Loop, the

western side of Coreen More is boggy and more difficult, approaching it from that side is not

advised.

Character

It is a short, 9m crag perfect for learning leading trad. Routes vary from Diff to HS, varied protection

is required, thus it is a perfect learning ground. The rock above provides some protection for

anchors, however, cams or tricams are necessary. As these types of protection tend to walk,

constant supervision is required. Hence, the crag is not suitable for bottom roping.

Routes described left to right

1. Cheap Flights, HS, J.Gruszczyk, C. Murray, 7.09.24

Start just right from the corner, climb the overhang to the corner between the overhanging

rock. Scramble carefully on the grass to reach the anchor point.

2. Yekaterina Direct, Diff., A. Souček, J. Gruszczyk, 9.03.24

Start on good holds directly below the corner between the overhanging rock and the slab.

Then, climb the corner. Excellent protection.

3. Balconi, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

Start on good holds 1m right from Yekaterina Direct, climb straight up.

4. Pootfath, V.Diff., J. Gruszczyk, I. Hicks, 16.09.24

The line directly in the middle of the slab. Excellent climbing on good holds, and much easier

than it looks, but the first good piece of protection is half way up.

5. Knees Up Mother Brown, V.Diff., I. Hicks, J. Gruszczyk, 16.09.24

Climb 1m right from Pootfath.

6. Deception, Severe, C. Murray, J. Gruszczyk, 7.09.24

Bouldery, risky start. Start on the arete and veer slightly left when you reach mid-height.

Main Page

2024-09-19T07:51:28Z

Daveh: Added note on registration emails.

==Irish Climbing Database==

There are two main methods of accessing the database.

#The <big>'''[[Irish Climbing Wiki|Irish Climbing Database]]'''</big> page is a text list of crags by county.
#The <big>'''[https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing Interactive Map]'''</big> is a Google map of over 200 pins listing crags, gyms, stacks, etc.

This database supplements the Mountaineering Ireland guidebooks.

Anybody can read the contents of the database, but to edit, you'll need an account or send new route reports to [mailto:admin@climbing.ie admin@climbing.ie]. Please see Readers Guide and Editors Guide sections below.

'''NOTE:''' DUE TO A RECENT SOFTWARE UPGRADE (March 2021), all logins had to be removed, and new registrations are required. So please use the Create Account page to register. '''''There is a problem with the server sending you the registration email due to security issues, so please email daveh@climbing.ie with your username and I can manually enable your registration''.'''

List of Updates:

*New WYSIWYG Editor, no more having to deal with wiki mark up language.
*Updated the wiki software from a 12-year-old version to a right-up-to-the-minute version.
*New mobile-friendly skin. Makes the info much more readable on portable devices.
*New interactive map with more than 100 pins.

==Useful Links==

*To edit the database, you'll need to [[Special:UserLogin|Log In]]. And, to do that, you'll need to [[Special:CreateAccount|Create a New Account]].
*For specific questions on particular climbing areas, go to the [http://forum.climbing.ie Irish Climbing Online forum].
*[[Editing a Page]]
*[[Compiling A Climbing Guidebook]]
*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents#For_readers Reader User's Guide]
*[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents#For_editors Editor User's Guide]

==Help==

For all website related matters please contact admin@climbing.ie, and for technical issues, i.e. if something's broken, please contact daveh@climbing.ie.

Aill na Cronain

2024-04-16T15:39:27Z

Daveh:

====Introduction====
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''

This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park.

Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.

15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts

==Access==

Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.

'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''

==Aill na Crónain Topo ==
''Aill Na Cronain''

==Far East side==

[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]

'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.'' The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.

'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016. ''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.

'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL '''16m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.'' Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.

'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016. ''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.

'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.'' A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m climb the right facing corner.

'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016. ''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’. This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.

'''The Scenic Variation''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015. ''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.

'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.'' Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.

'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016. ''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.

'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016. ''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave. Climb steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.

'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016. ''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.

'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering ''First Ascent A man followed by a bear First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.'' Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening.

'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015. ''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.

'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016. ''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.

'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016. ''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.

'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.'' Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.

'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.'' Finish up the overhanging wall.

'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.'' A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.

'''COROLLA GROOVE  '''HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016. ''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to finish directly up the wall.

A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.

'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.'' Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.

[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]] [[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.'' Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above, medium to big gear essential.

'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.'' A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!

'''ARTICLES OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.'' Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).   '' ''

'''THE LUG WALK''' D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.'' Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.

'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.'' Once in, it's tricky to get out of ! Finish up the wide off-width crack.

'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.'' Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish. ''' '''

'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.'' Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish

==East Side==
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.'' Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.

'''CLEFT''' 10m VD ''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.'' Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.

'''BLOODLINE '''10m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.'' Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche.  Veer right to avoid the overhang which is cappedwith ivy and a loose block.

'''AILEEN's ARETE '''10m VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.'' 20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.

'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.'' Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright

'''FRIGHT''' 10m S ''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.'' The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of the descent

'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS ''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.'' The arete just right of Fright. Awkward at the top.

==Skull Buttress==
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.

[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]

'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a ''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.'' Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.

'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 20m S ''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.'' Start just right of the descent on the extreme left of the buttress under an open-book corner at the top. Gain a large rounded ledge at 15m by a ridge weakness and climb the top corner on the right.

'''LOCKJAW''' 15m HVS 5a ''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.'' Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab [directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS], climb this confidently to a large pocket [large cam] rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.

'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a ''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.'' Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.

'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c ''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.'' A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.

'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S ''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.'' Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.

'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS ''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.'' Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).

'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD ''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.'' This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.

'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.

'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S ''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.'' Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall. '''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose.

'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S ''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.'' Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.

'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a ''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.'' Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difﬁculty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.

[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]

'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S ''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.'' A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’. 1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here. 2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.

[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]

'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.'' This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.

'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS ''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.'' The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.

'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D ''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.'' The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.

'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS ''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.'' 6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.

'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S ''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.'' The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.

==Falla Uachtarach==
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]

[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]

'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S ''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.'' 20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.

'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S ''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.'' Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.

'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.'' Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.

20m to the right there is

'''DOM''' 10m S ''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.'' Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.

'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S ''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.'' Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.

'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S ''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.'' Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.

'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S ''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.'' Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.

'''JENNIE''' 16m VD ''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016. Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017. ''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.

100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD ''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.'' Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.

'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.'' Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.

'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016'' Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.

'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.'' Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).

'''ENGAGEMENT''' S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''

Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.

'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.'' 5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.

'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''

Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.

'''FACILE''' 12m D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016'' Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.

'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.'' 2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily.

'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.'' Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.

'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.'' Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
'''DETENTION''' S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''

Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.

'''SUSPENSION''' S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''

Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.

'''EXPULSION''' S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''

Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.'' 50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.

==Small Wall==
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.

[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]

'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b ''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.'' 10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.

'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D ''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.'' 2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.

'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS ''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.'' Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.

'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S ''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.'' Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.

'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS ''T. Ryan, 1983.'' Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.

'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS ''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.'' Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).

'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b

''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''

Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.

'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS ''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.'' Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.

'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b

''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.''

Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''

'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS ''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.'' The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.

'''COVENANT''' 12m HS ''T. Ryan, 1983.'' The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.

[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]

Irish Climbing Wiki

2023-08-23T13:13:16Z

Daveh: Moorhill Quarry ban

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Fanore]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Moneen]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]]

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

[[Coolrakan Quarry]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]

[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]

[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Great Sugar Loaf]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

__FORCETOC__
__INDEX__
__NEWSECTIONLINK__

Killary Crags

2023-05-15T08:24:19Z

Daveh: Fixed up the numbering

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9mCarl Maddox ''Carl Maddox'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
Ciaran Lennon,

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straignt up the short crack.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 4b ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches top wall, ascend obvious open crack to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS4c ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m HVS 5a 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Good Protection

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m VS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse right to arete, follow left side of arete, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m S4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING'''
'''Some good boldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m V.Diff 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS 4c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4a/b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 4c/5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S 4a ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m VS 4a/b ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 3c ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 4c ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S 4a ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Killary Crags

2023-05-15T08:19:34Z

Daveh: Added info from Kevin Kilroy.

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9mCarl Maddox ''Carl Maddox'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
Ciaran Lennon,

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top.

'''R1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straignt up the short crack.

'''R1 b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''R3. 2 Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''R2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached.

'''R2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 4b 
''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' 
Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb 

'''R2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''R2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''R4- Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''R4a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''R4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''R5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches top wall, ascend obvious open crack to finish

'''R5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''R6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''R7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS4c ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''R8. Fire Starter *''' 14m HVS 5a 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Good Protection

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''R9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''R10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m VS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse right to arete, follow left side of arete, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start.

'''R11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height

'''R11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''R12. Naked lady *''' 10m S4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING'''
'''Some good boldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''R13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''R14. Pick Pocket''' 13m V.Diff 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket

'''R15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''R17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS 4c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab

'''R18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''R19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''R20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''R21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''R22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''R23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''a.1. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4a/b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 4c/5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S 4a ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m VS 4a/b ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 3c ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 4c ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S 4a ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''Pollux''' 30ft M.S. 
'''Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. 
''To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.''

'''Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct. 

'''Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Oughtdarra

2022-04-26T14:26:52Z

Daveh: Small formatting change

==Introduction==

The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone outcrops, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!

[[File:Final Oughtdarra.jpg|600px|Final Oughtdarra.jpg]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area

[[File:IMG 2677.JPG|600px|IMG 2677.JPG]]

==Northern Buttress==

[[File:Northern Buttress.jpg|600px|File:Northern Buttress.jpg]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.

'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022. ''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.

''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.''

'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S ''Ingolf Kühn Solo, 15th April 2022. ''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017. ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

''Right of the descent gully there are two corners.''

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013. ''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007,'' Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m left of Arnhem.

[[File:Northern central area.jpg|600px|File:Northern central area.jpg]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEH *''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.

[[File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg]]
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.

Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3 m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN ''' 12m E3 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian,
below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.

100m further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==

[[File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang
3m further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m further on there is

==Goat Buttress==

[[File:Goat Buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand
crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge
and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100m further south there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==

[[File:Canyon buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 10m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 13m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.

[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.

[[File:pre_op.jpg]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' 15m VD * ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête,
Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 15m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==

[[File:Central Section1 Left Hand.jpg|600px|Central Section1 Left Hand]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn. ''Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.

[[File:Central Area Right Hand.jpg|600px|Central Area Right Hand]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.

[[File:An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg|600px|An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (practiced on top rope). ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.

[[File:An Fear Breige Central.jpg|600px|Fear Breige Central.jpg]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.

[[File:DSC02187.JPG|400px|File:DSC02187.JPG]]

First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' VS 4c ** ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.

[[File:Even more an fear breige.jpg|600px|Even more an fear breige.jpg]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.

[[File:Capture (2).JPG|600px|File:Capture (2).JPG]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.

[[File:Areaupdate.jpg|600px|File:Areaupdate.jpg]]

Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

==='''Crumlin Wall'''===
[[File:Husavik.jpg|600px|File:Husavik.jpg]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''ANCHORMAN''' HS

''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''

Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.

[[File:Ss.jpg|600px|File:Ss.jpg]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' * HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''

Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.

Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''

'''99''' HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.

'''CITY OF ASHES''' HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left,

'''CITY OF BONES''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 25m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

'''CITY OF GLASS''' 25m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''

Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge.

'''GRISHA''' 25m S

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''

10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, finish up a left facing corner on the left.

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
Further Right and South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.
[[File:Bb 1.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''

Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.

'''WILDSTYLE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.

'''JAVELIN''' 16m * VS 4c

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''

Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner at the top of the cliff.

Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner.

[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|frameless]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, (alt leads) 6th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 10m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 14m HS Traverse 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..

'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, (ground up with rests)13th June 2021. ''

10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.

300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

==='''Beagle Walls'''===
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''IRPIN''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.

'''CHERNIHIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.

'''SUMY''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.

'''KHARKIV''' HS

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''

Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.

'''KHERSON''' HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''

Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.

[[File:Clone wars.jpg|600px|File:Clone wars.jpg]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI S'' '''''<nowiki/>''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|left|thumb|696x696px]]

[[File:Left hand apr.JPG|600px|File:Left hand apr.JPG]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Approx half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' 11m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZI''' 12m D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.''

Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the tip.

'''BONZO''' 12m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|600px|File:Capture2apr2019.JPG]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' 12m HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

[[File:Faster.PNG|400px|File:Faster.PNG]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' 12m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018 ''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''MARIUPOL'''

11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''

Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above.

'''180''' 11m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''KYIV''' 10m HS

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. ''

Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''.

'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

'''DELTA VARIANT''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.''

Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.'''

Further South and right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|none|thumb|559x559px]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020 ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''Fir Bolg''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''Tír na Phúca''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

[[File:Thumbnail100.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail100.jpg]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress.
Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.

[[File:Capturecod.JPG|700px|File:Capturecod.JPG|]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

[[File:Grapes.jpg|600px|File:Grapes.jpg]]

[[File:LNB Grapes.jpg|600px|Leaba na hAon Bhó left wall]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt

'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.

[[File:Jack.jpg|600px|File:Jack.jpg]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 14m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville and Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butters.

'''THE BALROG''' E1 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,

[[File:LNB HS.jpg|600px|File:LNB HS.jpg]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

[[File:LNB WWW.jpg|600px|File:LNB WWW.jpg]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

[[File:LNB Cave.jpg|600px|File:LNB Cave.jpg]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:

[[File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg|600px|File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''': E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''': 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT''': HVS 4c/5a ** ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN''': VS 4c* ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' E2 5c** ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared
for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' * S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019 ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.

[[File:Mitch.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic1]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD ''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''. 
Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S 
''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.'' 
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b 
''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. 
Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S 
''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''. Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D 
L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.'' 
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D 
''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' 
Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

[[File:Darragh.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic2]]

'''POP''' VD 
''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' 
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS 
''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. 
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a 
''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''. 
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' - HVS 5a 
''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.'' 
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)

[[File:TheReach.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic3]]

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS''' 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above

'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The Crack just right of '''All Right Now.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.

[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|600x600px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Ballyryan

2022-01-07T14:13:38Z

Daveh:

==Introduction==

''This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.'' Known locally as Ballyreen.

[[File:CaptureCC.JPG|300px|File:CaptureCC.JPG]]

'''HIGHWAY PATROL''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020'' Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of '''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

'''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' VD (1) ''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

[[File:Picture5330365.png|600px|File:Picture5330365.png]]

'''SALTSHAKER''' HS ''E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997'' A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue below and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK

[[File:Saltshaker.jpg|600px|File:Saltshaker.jpg]]

'''JOE SMOKES CRACK''' VD (1) ''T Sommerville, M McGrath 09/03/2019'' As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

'''GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES''' Diff (1) ''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice

'''NOT TERRY'S CRACK''' S (2) ''G Shannon, O Kelly 09/03/2019'' Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam.
Follow crack. Traverse right two thirds of the way up. No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish
[[File:Sketch-1552232504555.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM''' S (3) ''A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí R O'Sullivan 08/03/2019'' Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.

'''KINDER SURPRISE''' HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 1994'' Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.

[[File:1972.PNG|600px|File:1972.PNG]]

First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)

'''WHOSE CORNER''' VS 4c ''First ascent J O'Connor J Whyte August 1972 First Recorded Ascent ''
C. Torrans (solo)'' The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.''

'''TESCO VALUE HANGOVER''' HS 4b ''First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan 14/07/2013'' Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish.

'''WACKEY''' HS ''J Mulhall K Whyte August 1972'' Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner

'''CAOIMHE''' HVS/E1 5a ''Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010'' 1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.

'''THE DIVIL GETS AT YA''' HS ''B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

'''BALLYMEGASH''' HS ''B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep
wide crack.

'''STREET RACER''' VD ''B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)'' Climb the broken rib 2m left of '''FROST IN MAY''' to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

'''FROST IN MAY''' S Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

'''COUCH POTATOES ''' HS ''B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998'' Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.

'''RIB''' VD The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

'''CHIMNEY''' D The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)

'''BETWEEN LEFT CRACK''' S ''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

'''7. LEFT CRACK''' HS 4b The crack just right of chimney. (7)

'''8. RIGHT CRACK''' * VD Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

'''9. BALLYALPINE''' S ''Unknown'' Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top. Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

'''10. VULGARIAN''' S ''R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98'' Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

'''10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK''' HS4c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony 01/01/20'' Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney

'''11. WIDE CHIMNEY''' D The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)

'''11b. CHEAP LABOUR''' E1 5a ''(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09)'' This route is to the left of ''Slave Labour''. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)

[[File:CheapLabour.jpg|RTENOTITLE|alt=|800x800px]]

'''12. SLAVE LABOUR''' E1 5b ''C. Torrans.'' This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)

'''13. MANNERLESS MONSTER''' * HS 4b ''C. Torrans.'' This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.

'''AGONY ANT''' E2 5c ''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete

'''THE ALCOVE CRACK''' * HS 4b This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.

'''TRIUMPH CRACK''' * HS 4b The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.

'''€40 PATAGONIA HAT''' Diff ''Adam West and Fionn Delahunty 16/04/2017'' An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chockstones and slither to the top.

'''LOUISE''' VS ''Brian Rodgers 01/8/2009'' Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.

'''HIPPY TO YUPPY''' HVS 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86'' Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.

[[File:Legover.jpg|600px|File:Legover.jpg]]

'''CRAZY GAME OF POKER''' E3 6a ''Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope) ''Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway. [Headpoint] (Green line in pic below denotes actual route)

[[File:Crazy_game_of_poker.jpg|200px]]

'''ARETHUSA''' VS 5a 
''B Watts, N Callendar, 12th June 1999'' 
An early attempt on the poker arete. Pull your way up the arete for 3m (and no sneaky bridging over to Dolmen Corner either!). Swing right around the arete and move up to reach a ledge. Finish diagonally rightwards up easier cracks.
[[File:Arethusa 2.jpg|none|thumb|388x388px|Arethusa location|alt=]]

'''DOLMEN CORNER''' HS 4b ''unknown'' The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.

'''INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH''' VS ''K Cooper Oct 1994 (first recorded)'' ''R. Kernan, S. Oakes 14/7/2013'' A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.

'''BALLYRYAN DASHER''' S 4a This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

'''LEGOVER''' VS 4c The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

'''SCOWER BALL''' E3 5c ''D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04'' An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.

'''CRACK 90''' E3 6a ''D. Johnson, August 1988.'' Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?

'''ELVIS WHO?''' HVS 5a ''D. O Sullivan, April 1986.'' Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.

[[File:ElvisWho.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]

'''MR PRESIDENT''' VS 5a ''A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.'' The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.

'''Is Anyone In The Jacks''' HS 4b/c ''R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.'' The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected

Ballyryan

2022-01-07T14:12:22Z

Daveh: Reverted edits by Daveh (talk) to last revision by Barry watts

==Introduction==

''This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.'' Known locally as Ballyreen.

[[File:CaptureCC.JPG|300px|File:CaptureCC.JPG]]

'''HIGHWAY PATROL''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020'' Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of '''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

'''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' VD (1) ''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

[[File:Picture5330365.png|600px|File:Picture5330365.png]]

'''SALTSHAKER''' HS ''E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997'' A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue below and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK

[[File:Saltshaker.jpg|600px|File:Saltshaker.jpg]]

'''JOE SMOKES CRACK''' VD (1) ''T Sommerville, M McGrath 09/03/2019'' As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

'''GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES''' Diff (1) ''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice

'''NOT TERRY'S CRACK''' S (2) ''G Shannon, O Kelly 09/03/2019'' Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam.
Follow crack. Traverse right two thirds of the way up. No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish
[[File:Sketch-1552232504555.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM''' S (3) ''A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí R O'Sullivan 08/03/2019'' Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.

'''KINDER SURPRISE''' HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 1994'' Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.

[[File:1972.PNG|600px|File:1972.PNG]]

First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)

'''WHOSE CORNER''' VS 4c ''First ascent J O'Connor J Whyte August 1972 First Recorded Ascent ''
C. Torrans (solo)'' The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.''

'''TESCO VALUE HANGOVER''' HS 4b ''First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan 14/07/2013'' Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish.

'''WACKEY''' HS ''J Mulhall K Whyte August 1972'' Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner

'''CAOIMHE''' HVS/E1 5a ''Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010'' 1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.

'''THE DIVIL GETS AT YA''' HS ''B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

'''BALLYMEGASH''' HS ''B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep
wide crack.

'''STREET RACER''' VD ''B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)'' Climb the broken rib 2m left of '''FROST IN MAY''' to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

'''FROST IN MAY''' S Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

'''COUCH POTATOES ''' HS ''B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998'' Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.

'''RIB''' VD The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

'''CHIMNEY''' D The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)

'''BETWEEN LEFT CRACK''' S ''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

'''7. LEFT CRACK''' HS 4b The crack just right of chimney. (7)

'''8. RIGHT CRACK''' * VD Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

'''9. BALLYALPINE''' S ''Unknown'' Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top. Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

'''10. VULGARIAN''' S ''R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98'' Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

'''10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK''' HS4c ''J Healy, G O'Mahony 01/01/20'' Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney

'''11. WIDE CHIMNEY''' D The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)

'''11b. CHEAP LABOUR''' E1 5a ''(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09)'' This route is to the left of ''Slave Labour''. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)

[[File:CheapLabour.jpg|RTENOTITLE|alt=|800x800px]]

'''12. SLAVE LABOUR''' E1 5b ''C. Torrans.'' This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)

'''13. MANNERLESS MONSTER''' * HS 4b ''C. Torrans.'' This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.

'''AGONY ANT''' E2 5c ''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete

'''THE ALCOVE CRACK''' * HS 4b This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.

'''TRIUMPH CRACK''' * HS 4b The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.

'''€40 PATAGONIA HAT''' Diff ''Adam West and Fionn Delahunty 16/04/2017'' An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chockstones and slither to the top.

'''LOUISE''' VS ''Brian Rodgers 01/8/2009'' Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.

'''HIPPY TO YUPPY''' HVS 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86'' Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.

[[File:Legover.jpg|600px|File:Legover.jpg]]

'''CRAZY GAME OF POKER''' E3 6a ''Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope) ''Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway. [Headpoint] (Green line in pic below denotes actual route)

[[File:Crazy_game_of_poker.jpg|200px]]

'''ARETHUSA''' VS 5a

''B Watts, N Callendar, 12th June 1999''.

An early attempt on the poker arete. Pull your way up the arete for 3m (and no sneaky bridging over to Dolmen Corner either!). Swing right around the arete and move up to reach a ledge. Finish diagonally rightwards up easier cracks.
[[File:Arethusa 2.jpg|none|thumb|388x388px|Arethusa location|alt=]]

'''DOLMEN CORNER''' HS 4b ''unknown'' The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.

'''INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH''' VS ''K Cooper Oct 1994 (first recorded)'' ''R. Kernan, S. Oakes 14/7/2013'' A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.

'''BALLYRYAN DASHER''' S 4a This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

'''LEGOVER''' VS 4c The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

'''SCOWER BALL''' E3 5c ''D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04'' An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.

'''CRACK 90''' E3 6a ''D. Johnson, August 1988.'' Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?

'''ELVIS WHO?''' HVS 5a ''D. O Sullivan, April 1986.'' Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.

[[File:ElvisWho.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]

'''MR PRESIDENT''' VS 5a ''A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.'' The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.

'''Is Anyone In The Jacks''' HS 4b/c ''R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.'' The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected

Ballyryan

2022-01-07T14:12:07Z

Daveh:

==Introduction==

''This little crag is comprised of pillars, corners and chimneys and can be seen clearly from the road. Most of the routes were climbed by Tiglin groups before they were recorded. Access - From the car-park of Ailladie (Stone Wall area) walk south for a few hundred metres until the roadside crag swings sharply east and becomes a bit higher.'' Known locally as Ballyreen.

[[File:CaptureCC.JPG|300px|File:CaptureCC.JPG]]

'''HIGHWAY PATROL''' S 
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 17/10/2020'' 
Before the roadside crag swings sharply East and 5m left of '''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' there is a high face split by a discontinuous crack line. Climb the crack and take care with the rock.

'''PUCK MAY BE FAMOUS''' VD (1) 
''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' 
Razor sharp rock, follow the crack to top, lots of protection.

[[File:Picture5330365.png|600px|File:Picture5330365.png]]

'''SALTSHAKER''' HS 
''E Fitzgerald, 20/12/1997'' 
A thin line following the left crack and slab marked in light blue below and left of JOE SMOKES CRACK

[[File:Saltshaker.jpg|600px|File:Saltshaker.jpg]]

'''JOE SMOKES CRACK''' VD (1) 
''T Sommerville, M McGrath 09/03/2019'' 
As shown, a really nice crack with lots of lovely gear placement, get to the ledge 3/4 of the way up and continue to top. Anchors are sparse but there are two threads a ways back, bring a long rope.

'''GET THEM FECKIN' CRUNCHIES''' Diff (1) 
''M McGrath, T Sommerville 09/03/2019'' 
A small climb but room for nice gear if you want it. A small climbing challenge at the start and then easy to the finish. Good for practice

'''NOT TERRY'S CRACK''' S (2) 
''G Shannon, O Kelly 09/03/2019'' 
Climb starts 3m left of wham bam tank you cam.
Follow crack. Traverse right two thirds of the way up. No.1 nut needed for protection on last move. Easy start hard finish
[[File:Sketch-1552232504555.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''WHAM BAM THANK YOU CAM''' S (3) 
''A Ní Cheallaigh-Mhuirí R O'Sullivan 08/03/2019'' 
Route far to the left of usual scramble ascent/descent. Start the crack just left of boulder. Protect from below the crux - a bulge which is strenuous to gain. Then continue the crack easily towards the right.

'''KINDER SURPRISE''' HVS 5a 
''J. Hawkins, J O'Connor, 1994'' 
Start on the face left of ‘Whose corner’ and 1m right of the descent, climb the thin crack over a tricky bit to the top.

[[File:1972.PNG|600px|File:1972.PNG]]

First ascent of Whose Corner and Wackey (Steve Young photo collection)

'''WHOSE CORNER''' VS 4c ''First ascent J O'Connor J Whyte August 1972 First Recorded Ascent ''
C. Torrans (solo)'' The short, right-facing corner 15m left of the chimney.''

'''TESCO VALUE HANGOVER''' HS 4b ''First Recorded Ascent M .Campbell, T. Fegan 14/07/2013'' Climb the crack line 1.5m right of 'Whose Corner'. An easy start provides protection for a thoughtful finish.

'''WACKEY''' HS ''J Mulhall K Whyte August 1972'' Climb the broken crack 3m right of whose corner

'''CAOIMHE''' HVS/E1 5a ''Alan Flood, Derick Tully, July 2010'' 1.5m to the right of Wackey follow the thin left trending crack that eventually disappears to a featureless crux finish.

'''THE DIVIL GETS AT YA''' HS 
''B Watts, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, G Angelini, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' 
Start just right of ‘’Caoimhe’’, climb straight up the wall and tackle the short off width crack.

'''BALLYMEGASH''' HS 
''B Watts, G Angelini, A O’Toole, S Kelly, B O’Toole, K Kelly, 28/7/2019 (First recorded ascent).'' 
The obvious fissure right of ‘’’the divil’’ is easy to start , finish up the steep
wide crack.

'''STREET RACER''' VD 
''B Watts, A O'Toole, 7/4/2019 (First recorded ascent)'' 
Climb the broken rib 2m left of '''FROST IN MAY''' to the ledge and finish up the wide crack

'''FROST IN MAY''' S Start below the left-facing corner crack at half height. Climb over the bulge, up to the corner crack and up this to the top.

'''COUCH POTATOES ''' HS 
''B Watts, E Fitzgerald, 15/2/1998'' 
Start right of Frost in May, climb easily up the wide crack to a ledge and gain the top using the left hand crack.

'''RIB''' VD 
The flakey rib just left of the chimney.

'''CHIMNEY''' D 
The chimney with the jammed chockstone. (6)

'''BETWEEN LEFT CRACK''' S 
''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' 
Start just right of Chimney and far left of Left Crack. Climb directly to the top

'''7. LEFT CRACK''' HS 4b 
The crack just right of chimney. (7)

'''8. RIGHT CRACK''' * VD 
Easy to start, difficult to finish. (8)

'''9. BALLYALPINE''' S 
''Unknown'' 
Climb 2 m up ‘Right crack’ then veer right up the slab and wall to the top. Note: It’s been climbed for years but I heard it referred to by Clare climbers as Ballyalpine (9)

'''10. VULGARIAN''' S 
''R. Mullen, T. Ore 01/12/98'' 
Start just left of the base of Wide Chimney. Up over short vertical cracks to a tiny slab then direct to the top. (10)

'''10a. GETYOURNAMEINTHEBOOK''' HS4c 
''J Healy, G O'Mahony 01/01/20'' 
Climb the arete between Vulgarian and Wide chimney

'''11. WIDE CHIMNEY''' D 
The second chimney on the crag, just left of the steep wall. (11)

'''11b. CHEAP LABOUR''' E1 5a 
''(Tim and John O'Connell, March 09)'' 
This route is to the left of ''Slave Labour''. Follows the blank slab then runs into a crack before topping out. (Red)

[[File:CheapLabour.jpg|RTENOTITLE|alt=|800x800px]]

'''12. SLAVE LABOUR''' E1 5b 
''C. Torrans.'' 
This route climbs the thin crack in the steep west-facing wall. Good climbing on sound rock. (12)

'''13. MANNERLESS MONSTER''' * HS 4b 
''C. Torrans.'' 
This excellent little route climbs the broad rib on the left edge of the alcove. Climb the rib to the top. Poor protection.

'''AGONY ANT''' E2 5c 
''Brian Rodgers 1/8/2009'' 
Start on the slab wall left of the arete next to The Alcove Crack. Climb directly to the top of the crag on small holds with pockets to start. Do not use the arete

'''THE ALCOVE CRACK''' * HS 4b 
This route takes the left of the two wide cracks in the alcove. Strenuous climbing on sound rock.

'''TRIUMPH CRACK''' * HS 4b The right-hand of the two cracks. Strenuous but delightful climbing.

'''€40 PATAGONIA HAT''' Diff 
''Adam West and Fionn Delahunty 16/04/2017'' 
An adventure through the crag, pass through Triumph Crack into the narrow chimney, then squeeze in behind the chockstones and slither to the top.

'''LOUISE''' VS 
''Brian Rodgers 01/8/2009'' 
Start in the centre of the wall between Triumph Crack and Hippy to Yuppy. Climb directly to the top. Tricky to adequately protect.

'''HIPPY TO YUPPY''' HVS 5b 
''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/4/86'' 
Up the arete to the ledge and continue up the right edge.

[[File:Legover.jpg|600px|File:Legover.jpg]]

'''CRAZY GAME OF POKER''' E3 6a ''Cian Kearns, Brian Bateson, 8/9/2014 (practiced on top-rope) ''Climb the slightly overhanging arete to the right of "Hippy to Yuppy" staying mainly on the face. The crux is getting your feet onto the obvious, hollow-sounding flake around one third height. Protection is poor after halfway. [Headpoint] (Green line in pic below denotes actual route)

[[File:Crazy_game_of_poker.jpg|200px]]

'''ARETHUSA VS 5a''' 
B Watts, N Callendar, 12th June 1999. 
An early attempt on the poker arete. Pull your way up the arete for 3m. Swing right around the arete and move up to reach a ledge. Finish diagonally rightwards up easier cracks.

'''DOLMEN CORNER''' HS 4b 
''unknown'' 
The obvious corner crack left of Ballyryan Dasher has been climbed for years but never recorded, It's worthwhile and I think a grading of HS 4b would be accurate, I'm not aware of any local names for it but something like 'Dolmen corner' would be keeping in with tradition and the environment ! - Barry Watts.

'''INTERVIEW WITH A JELLYFISH''' VS 
''K Cooper Oct 1994 (first recorded)'' 
''R. Kernan, S. Oakes 14/7/2013'' 
A slightly eliminate but good line which takes the bulging corner 1m left of Ballyryan Dasher (i.e. Where you generally have your right foot). Plenty of bridging and good gear.

'''BALLYRYAN DASHER''' S 4a 
This route is situated in the bay just right of the square-cut alcove and climbs the broken, wide crack.

'''LEGOVER''' VS 4c 
The right-hand crack in the bay. Treat the rock with care.

'''SCOWER BALL''' E3 5c 
''D.Ayton, C.Harney (lead onsight) July 04'' 
An overhanging arête to the left of Crack 90. Loose rock at the top and no gear past mid height, medium wires in a thin crack up to that point. A NO star route but a route non-the-less.

'''CRACK 90''' E3 6a 
''D. Johnson, August 1988.'' 
Climbs the overhanging thin crack left of Elvis Who?

'''ELVIS WHO?''' HVS 5a 
''D. O Sullivan, April 1986.'' 
Several metres right of the bay is a right-trending wide crack. This is climbed to the top.

[[File:ElvisWho.jpg|RTENOTITLE]]

'''MR PRESIDENT''' VS 5a 
''A. McDaniel, S. Klaver, 11/4/96.'' 
The crack right of Elvis Who?. Climb the crack and move left to the arete and finish up the crack above the overhang.

'''Is Anyone In The Jacks''' HS 4b/c 
''R. Dalton, B. Walsh, 27/01/11.'' 
The obvious crackline 3m right of 'Mr President.' Varied climbing, well protected

Slievemageogh

2022-01-05T09:31:33Z

Daveh:

<display_map zoom="14" type=satellite>54.127995,-6.0639086~Slievemageogh</display_map>

'''These routes are on the West facing side of a small crag at grid ref J266216 along the southern ridge of Pigeon Rock Mountain towards Slievemageogh'''
[[File:Slievemageogh.jpg|thumb|800x800px|alt=|none]]

'''Something Will Turn Up''' Severe 4a 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start below a large left facing flake towards the right-hand end of the West facing side of the small outcrop at 266216. Climb on positive holds and edges towards a good ledge below a small protruding triangular roof. Pass roof on left (crux) to finish on top of outcrop.

'''No Rest for the Humble''' VS 4c 15m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 3m left of Something Will Turn Up. Climb slabby rock to a good ledge below a short blank face at approximately half-height. Use good purchase on top of blank face to assist strenuous move to top of blank face (crux). Finish climbing on delicate moves to the top.

'''Don’t Call Me Daisy''' Severe 4b 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 1 m left of No Rest for the Humble. Climb on slab and good holds to gain a narrow heathery ledge. Climb pockmarked rock before stepping left to use a wide crack to finish.

Slievemageogh

2022-01-05T09:29:33Z

Daveh:

'''These routes are on the West facing side of a small crag at grid ref J266216 along the southern ridge of Pigeon Rock Mountain towards Slievemageogh'''
[[File:Slievemageogh.jpg|thumb|800x800px|alt=|none]]

'''Something Will Turn Up''' Severe 4a 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start below a large left facing flake towards the right-hand end of the West facing side of the small outcrop at 266216. Climb on positive holds and edges towards a good ledge below a small protruding triangular roof. Pass roof on left (crux) to finish on top of outcrop.

'''No Rest for the Humble''' VS 4c 15m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 3m left of Something Will Turn Up. Climb slabby rock to a good ledge below a short blank face at approximately half-height. Use good purchase on top of blank face to assist strenuous move to top of blank face (crux). Finish climbing on delicate moves to the top.

'''Don’t Call Me Daisy''' Severe 4b 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 1 m left of No Rest for the Humble. Climb on slab and good holds to gain a narrow heathery ledge. Climb pockmarked rock before stepping left to use a wide crack to finish.

Slievemageogh

2022-01-05T09:29:12Z

Daveh:

'''These routes are on the West facing side of a small crag at grid ref 266216 along the southern ridge of Pigeon Rock Mountain towards Slievemageogh'''
[[File:Slievemageogh.jpg|thumb|800x800px|alt=|none]]

'''Something Will Turn Up''' Severe 4a 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start below a large left facing flake towards the right-hand end of the West facing side of the small outcrop at 266216. Climb on positive holds and edges towards a good ledge below a small protruding triangular roof. Pass roof on left (crux) to finish on top of outcrop.

'''No Rest for the Humble''' VS 4c 15m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 3m left of Something Will Turn Up. Climb slabby rock to a good ledge below a short blank face at approximately half-height. Use good purchase on top of blank face to assist strenuous move to top of blank face (crux). Finish climbing on delicate moves to the top.

'''Don’t Call Me Daisy''' Severe 4b 14m 
''S. Black, V.Adamson 12/6/21'' 
Start about 1 m left of No Rest for the Humble. Climb on slab and good holds to gain a narrow heathery ledge. Climb pockmarked rock before stepping left to use a wide crack to finish.

Slievemageogh

2022-01-05T09:26:53Z

Daveh: Added Image

File:Slievemageogh.jpg

2022-01-05T09:26:21Z

Daveh:

Slievemageogh

Irish Climbing Wiki

2022-01-05T09:24:37Z

Daveh: /* Co. Down */

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slievemageogh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

Irish Climbing Wiki

2021-10-29T11:11:11Z

Daveh: Remove link to mournesclimbers.com, as it's now a spam site.

'''IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:'''

http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html

[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]

==Introduction==

There are several websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information:

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]

[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]

Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and we'll forward on any info received to the relevant guidebook editors.

Alternatively just email the info to [mailto:newroutes@climbing.ie newroutes@climbing.ie]
==Crag List==
==Co. Antrim==
[[Ballygalley Head]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Fairhead]]

[[Garron Point]]

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)

[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)

[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]

[[Músaem Uladh]]

==Co. Armagh==

==Co. Carlow==

==Co. Cavan==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Englishman's House Crag]]

[[The Playbank]]

==Co. Clare==

[[Ailladie]]

[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]

[[Aill na Cronain]]

[[Aillnagapple]]

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Ballyryan]]

[[Ballynahown]]

[[Ceann Capaill]]

[[Cliffs Of Moher]]

[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]

[[Doolin]]

[[Eagles Rock]]

[[Loop Head]]

[[Mullach Mor]]

[[Murroughkilly]]

[[Slieve Rua]]

[[Oughtdarra]]

[[Scailp Na Seisri]]

[[Turloughmore]] (Anyone have a Grid Reference for this crag?)

==Co. Cork==

[[Adrigole]]

[[Allihies]]

[[Barry's Head]]

[[Beaumont Quarry]]

[[Black Ball Head]]

[[Cape Clear Island]]

[[Castletownroche]]

[[Cumeengadhra]]

[[Glengarriff]]

[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]

[[Knockadoon Head]]

[[Mizen Head]]

[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]

[[Oysterhaven]]

[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]

[[Sands Cove]]

[[Seven Heads]]

[[Sheeps Head]]

[[Sherkin Island]]

[[Whiteball Head]]

==Co. Derry==

[[Sperrin Mountains]]

==Co. Donegal==

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal Online Guidebook]

[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]

[[Portsalon]]

==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==

The 31 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location.

'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]                           [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Affrain''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''Muckish''' Mountain guidebook download]                [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]

<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big>

[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gweedore''' guidebook download]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Glenveagh''' guidebook download]                          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Bingorms/Lough Barra''' guidebook download]         [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]          [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Crohy Head''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]                          [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Tory Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inishsirrer''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Umphin''' guidebook download]                                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tororragaun''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gola Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inishillintry''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''Cruit Island''' guidebook download]                        [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Owey Island''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Arranmore_island''' guidebook download]                 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download]                   [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']

'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]                  [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]            [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]                      [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]                             [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]

[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]

'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothanvarra''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Bristi Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Gull Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''Tormore Island''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']

[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']

==Co. Down==
[[Alnadue Quarry]]

[[Annalong Buttress]]

[[Ben Crom]]

[[Bearnagh Slabs]]

[[Bearnagh Tors]]

[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]

[[Binnian Tors]]

[[Blue Lough Buttress]]

[[Buzzard's Roost]]

[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]

[[Doan]]

[[Douglas Crag]]

[[Eagle Mountain]]

[[Eagle Rocks]]

[[Hare's Castle]]

[[Hen Mountain]]

[[Little Binnian]]

[[Lower Cove]]

[[Meelmore]]

[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry''']

[[Percy Bysshe]]

[[Pigeon Rock]]

[[Slieve Beg]]

[[Slieve Commedagh]]

[[Slieve Muck]]

[[Slieve Lamagan]]

[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]

[[Spellack]]

[[Upper Cove]]

[[Unnamed Tor]]

==Co. Dublin==

[[Bullock Harbour]]

[[Dalkey Quarry]]

[[Howth Head]]

[[Ireland's Eye]]

[[The Scalp]]

==Co. Fermanagh==

[[Benaughlin]]

[[Crag With A View]]

[[Cuilcagh Gap]]

[[The Fosstra]]

[[Hanging Rock]]

[[Knockmore]]

[[Monastir Sink]]

[[Skreen Rock]]

[[Wheathill Rock]]

==Co. Galway==

[[Aran Islands]]

[[Bencorr]]

[[Binn Braon]]

[[Cnoc Mordáin]]

[[Diamond Hill]]

[[Errisbeg]]

[[Gleann Chochan]]

[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]

[[Inagh Valley]]

[[Little Killary]]

[[Maamturks]]

[[Galway city]]

==Co. Kerry==

===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===

[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]

[[Brandon East Buttress]]

[[An Charraig Ard]]

[[Com an Lochaigh]]

[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]

[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]

[[Glanteenassig forest]]

[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]

[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]

[[Ceann Sibéal]]

[[Binn Diarmada]]

===Other===

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs Point]

[[Ballyheigue]]

[[Black Valley]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]

[[Coomachuillin]]

[[Cuas Croom]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]

[[Gap Of Dunloe]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]

[[Glanearagh south]]

[[Illaunnaweelaun]]

[[Kerry Head]]

[[Loo Bridge]]

[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]

[[Maghancoosaun]]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]

[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]

[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]

==Co. Kildare==

==Co. Kilkenny==

[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]

[[Knockdrinna]]

==Co. Laois==

==Co. Leitrim==

[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]

[[Cloonty Pruglish]]

[[King's Rock]]

[[Mass Rock]]

[[The Doons]]

==Co. Limerick==

[[Knockhourough]]

[[Knockroe]]

[[Lough Gur]]

==Co. Longford==

==Co. Louth==

[[Slievenaglogh]]

[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]

==Co. Mayo==

[[Achill|Achill]]

[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]

[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]

[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]

[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]

[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]

[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]

[[Doonamo_Point|Doonamo Point]]

[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]

[[Erris_Head|Erris Head]]

[[Erris_Head/Danish_Cellar|Erris Head/Danish Cellar]]

[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]

[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]

[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]

[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]

[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]

[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]

[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]

[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]

[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]

[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]

[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]

[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]

==Co. Meath==

==Co. Monaghan==

==Co. Offaly==

[[Silver River Crag]]

==Co. Roscommon==

==Co. Sligo==

[[Aughris Head]]

[[Cooney Rock]]

[[Doomore Crag]]

[[Happy Valli]]

[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]

[[Kings Mountain]]

[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]

[[Scalp na gCapail]]

[[Slish Wood]]

[[Tormore]]

[[Union Woods]]

==Co. Tipperary==

[[Devil's bit]]

==Co. Tyrone==

[[Strabane Glen]]

[[Cookstown Quarry]]

==Co. Waterford==

[[Ardmore Head]]

[[Ballinaclough]]

[[Bunmahon]]

[[Coumshingaun]]

[[Crotty's Rock]]

[[Fauscoum]]

[[Foill An Priosun]]

[[Helvick Head]]

[[Mahon Valley]]

[[Coum Tay]]

[[Nire Valley]]

==Co. Westmeath==

[[Fore]]

[[Rock of Curry]]

==Co. Wexford==

[[Rocklands]]

[[Forth Mountain]]

==Co. Wicklow==

[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]

[[Annalecka Buttress]]

[[Barnacullian]]

[[Barnbawn]]

[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]

[[The Bishop - Dunran]]

[[Bonfire Buttress]]

[[Bray Head]]

[[Carrick Mountain]]

[[Carrigshouk]]

[[Cloghoge]]

[[Glendalough]]

[[Glenmalure]]

[[Green Lizard]]

[[Hollywood]]

[[Lough Bray]]

[[Lough Dan]]

[[Lough Nahanagan]]

[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]

[[Luggala]]

[[Mall Hill]]

[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]

[[Rocky Valley]]

[[Wicklow Head]]

[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]

Sands Cove

2021-08-06T16:10:41Z

Daveh: Added google maps link. Will also add to crag map.

'''Grid Ref: W377 336'''
Rock Type: Sandstone.

<display_map type=satellite>51.552494, -8.898166</display_map>

[[File:SC map.jpg|frameless|800px]]

'''Single pitch climbing in delightful surroundings.'''

'''Access:''' '''Sands Cove is a small gravel beach at a cul de sac kept quiet by limited parking and the proximity of other more accessible beaches nearby.''' '''There are some houses at the beach so maintain a low key presence. We met some residents who were very friendly and didn’t mind us climbing there.'''

'''The climbs are tidal and the rocks at the base of the crag remain quite wet and slippery even at low tide. It is difficult to keep your rock shoes dry so bring a towel and a mat.'''

'''In general the bottoms of the climbs are wave washed, solid and smooth, the middle sections have better holds and the top can get crumbly.'''
'''Limited belay options require some degree of creativity and caution.'''

======Sands Cove Crag 1======
'''This is the first crag nearest the house and the main gravel beach. The climbs are described from right to left.'''

[[File:Topo 1.png|frameless|500px]]

'''1. Minecraft: Diff 6m.''' ''B. Smyth solo 31/07/21.'' Just left of the boulders on the beach start up the first inside square cut corner. Up slightly left to exit through the small notch at the top.

'''2. One for the road: V.diff 6m.''' ''B. Smyth solo 01/08/21.'' Climb directly up the middle of the slab between climbs 1 and 3. Exit through the small notch at the top as for Minecraft.

'''3. The Hammer Twins: Severe 6m.''' ''E. McBride, B. Smith. 31/07/21.'' Stand on the slippery tidal rocks and bridge up into the wide crack. The crack ends at 2/3 height. Keep left to pull over the top. Good nut protection.

'''4. The Dying Whale: VS 6m.''' ''B. Smyth, E. McBride. 01/08/21.'' Walk leftwards from climb 3 around the large bulge to the next internal corner. Start up the narrow crack to gain a thin ledge at half height, Finish up the through the flakey corner on the right. Hex/Nut protection.

'''5. What’s left of the whale?: VS 6m.''' ''E. McBride, B. Smyth. 01/08/21.'' Start at the bottom of the next crack to the left of climb 4. Climb up the crack onto the left side of the thin ledge. A direct finish is thwarted by loose flakey rock above so traverse rightwards on the ledge to finish as for the Dying Whale. Hex/Nut protection.

'''The next climbs are just left of crag 1 on an isolated rock tower surrounded by gravel beach and some large boulders.'''

====Sands Cove Tower====
'''6. Squirm: V.diff 7m.''' ''E. McBride, B. Smyth. 31/07/21.'' There is an obvious chimney on the front right side of the tower.
Easy atmospheric fun. Good nut protection in the upper section.

'''7. Messner’s Trousers: Severe 7m.''' ''B. Smyth, E. McBride. 31/07/21.'' Go around to the back left side of the tower where two large boulders lie. Climb the face close to the left edge. Poorly protected by slings on 3 dubious flakes. Upon gaining the top edge, move right up the sharp arete for a sling belay on the rear crown of the tower.

North-facing Cliff

2021-07-23T12:28:11Z

Daveh: Formatting

[[File:Nfc.jpg|200px|Nfc.jpg]] [Photo shows West side of Main gully, Emperor Buttress and Main Face]

These cliffs have so far provided the best and hardest routes in the Comeragh Mountains. The rock is steep and clean cut with well developed vertical jointing. Though the main face is a bit gloomy in all but the nicest weather, many of the climbs are in fact on the side walls of the large gullies bounding and bisecting the cliff and therefore receive a fair amount of sunshine.

The cliff is best approached via a high sheep track above the southern shore of the lake. Gain height steeply from the south east corner of the lake and then contour the hillside on some sheep tracks.

Descent is best achieved by continuing up the hillside until a sheep track is encountered and then traversing off to the left (east) to gain the large gully. (In the dark, it is better to go higher still to a second sheep track before traversing east). For climbs west of Black Chocolate gully, it is best to traverse off to the west. However, it is important to gain open ground before descending, rather than attempting the open gully which has a tricky section lower down.

==Coumshingaun North-facing Cliffs Layout==

'''Main Gully [East side]''' Sea Breeze Karaluk '''Main Gully [West side]''' Amelia Harvest Moon Sleep of Reason Sleep of Reason direct '''Emperor Buttress''' Twin-crack Corner Kishon Prophets of Baal Horeb Yammerschooner Vale of Galgopleye Emperor’s Nose '''Emperor Buttress West face''' Talking God Dark Angel Dark Angel- direct start Stone the Roses Capricorn '''Main Face''' The Khalid Question The Medial Axis Perne in a Gyre The Delta Variant The Immortal Path The Tower of Darkness Geronimo Cuinne Flaithulach Anchor Alley, Greystone A Mast For The Soul Journey to the Great Flake '''Atom Ant Wall ''' Crooked Smile Tyger tyger Grendel Atom Ant Slippery People Controlled Burning '''Grey Hotel Buttress''' Damocles Grey Hotel '''Black Chocolate Gully – Birdman Wall''' Birdman Planet Clare Raging cow '''Black Chocolate Gully''' Central Pillar of Chocolate '''Bk. Choc. Gully – Satanic Majesty Wall''' Colours on the Water Satanic Majesty Prehistoric World '''West Face''' Filamingo Ed’s Roof Stephen’s Crack Chuckler The Diamond Griddler Griddler Arete '''The West End''' Run Rabbit Red-line Vibrations Anstey’s Desire The Tailor Perpetual Motion A Walk on the West End West End Slab

[[File:Cs north3.png|800px|Cs north3.png]]

==ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS==

===Main Gully East side [West-facing wall]===

'''Sea Breeze''' 20m [E1 5b] ''P. Scanlan, B. McConnell Aug 2015 [On Sight]'' Start at the front of the lower buttress (left side), climb steeply up the small crack line to gain a ledge, the line narrows until the crack widens half way up the buttress. Now climb the wide crack on the other wise blank slab, hand jams are not possible but good holds can be obtained within the crack, 5 friend needed to protect. Make strenuous moves up to small ledge and place protection before making hard delicate moves to the belay ‘pulpit’.

'''KARALUK''' 20m [HS 4b] ''J Bergin, D McGrath, April 1988'' Start at the left end (lower) of the buttress, and right of a wide and broken looking crack. Climb up steeply on large holds to the base of an overhang, traverse diagonally right until it is possible to climb a crack to the belay 'pulpit'.

'''The following two little routes are on a fairly clean buttress approx. 30 meters higher up the gully and on the same side as Karaluk'''

'''Sadrack''' 10m [HS 4b] ''J. Bergin, R Smith. June 2012'' Start at the left end of the buttress,, about 1 meter to the right of the left edge. Step up and diagonally leftwards until you reach the top left end of the buttress, and under a large block. Continue directly upwards, then carefully up the vegetation to belay about 4 meters from the top.

'''Nanuk.''' 10m [S/VD 4a?] ''J. Bergin, R. Smith. June 2012.'' This route starts about 2 meters to the right of Sadrak, under a small left trending ramp which starts after about 2meters....the first move is probably harder than VDiff. Gain the ramp and follow it to the top which is right of a large block. Continue directly upwards, then tread carefully on the vegetation to belay back about 4 meters.

===Main Gully West side [East-facing Wall]===

'''This is the wall bounding the east side of the North Facing Cliff proper. It is located opposite and slightly lower than the Karaluk buttress. The climbing is steep and fingery on this vertical wall, with good cracks and sharp incuts.'''

'''AMELIA''' 23m VS 4c ''J Bergin. A Widger, 25 Aug. 1991 ''A fine wall route which starts almost directly under the left most of three steep corners facing the lake. 1. Climb up the steep left end of a ramp, where a few delicate moves lead to easier climbing to gain the corner. This is climbed using the arete on the left. At top of corner, trend right and find the least-unappealing line. Top-out horrendous.

'''HARVEST MOON''' 27m [HVS 5a/b] ''J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 ''Start at the first section of an obvious ramp which starts immediately right of a damp section of the cliff. Climb the ramp until it is possible to bridge across to a diagonal crack to the left of a huge 'detached' block. Some strenuous jams bring you to reach the top of the flake (it might be advisable not to use camming devices behind the large block which is detached from the face). From here, follow the steep curving crack in the corner above to the top. Variation: E2 5c Follow the steep curving crack on the face which is hard uncomfortable 5c

'''THE SLEEP OF REASON''' 35m [E3 6a] ''S. Gallwey (unseconded), 7 May 1989 ''An athletic route of sustained difficulty and interest, climbing up the left (east-facing) side of the obvious steep arete where the east and north faces intersect. Start at the base of the arete. Climb out onto resting stance on right-hand wall. Reach back left into crack and make a hard move to gain better holds. Continue up with difficulty until it is possible to follow parallel diagonal cracks leftwards to the overlap. Gain hold on right above overlap, and then make a long reach out right for small incut hold. Hard strenuous moves upwards establish one on better holds above the overlap (crux). Move diagonally right to the arete to gain a good handhold, which once stood upon, provides the first "hands off" rest of the route. Climb up the arete on slightly easier ground to a ledge about 4 m. below the top. Move left off ledge to climb a short overhanging wall on large holds to the top.

'''SLEEP OF REASON DIRECT''' 35m [E5 6a] ''H Fogg, G Fogg 2009 ''This does not follow the cracks leftward but goes straight up. Sustained.
===The Emperor area & main North facing cliff===

'''The Emperor, a startling great prow of rock with a cracked overhang (the nose) near the top, juts out of the North Facing Cliff near its east end. Several good routes tackle its exposed flank.'''

===Emperor Buttress===

'''TWIN-CRACK CORNER''' 35m [E1 5b] ''G Fogg, H Fogg 8/8/08 Onsight. ''Gain rushy ledge at 6m. Move to right-hand side of ledge. Climb boldly past bulge [in-situ peg, placed on lead] to eponymous corner.

'''KISHON''' 50m [HVS 5a] ''G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning. ''Just left of base-camp, climb/chimney the edge of the detached flake. At the ledge, move out from the corner onto the short hanging slab at left to gain the bottom of the thin crack that leads to the corner above and thence to the higher corner above to left. At the top is a short vertical wall with good gear. With 50m ropes, it is necessary to belay above this and let your second continue through the last 2m to ledge. Abseil descent from in-situ slings.

'''PROPHETS OF BAAL''' 48m [E1 5b] ''G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning. ''Start as for ''Kishon''. From ledge, ascend corner system to right, through overhang, heading for higher wider overhang and niche above to left, and on to abseil ledge.

'''HOREB''' 20m [E2 6a] ''H Fogg G Fogg 22/5/10 Abseil inspection.A test-piece from the abseil-ledge to the top. ''From the left-hand side of the ledge, straight up through overhang, following crack.

'''YAMMERSCHOONER''' 70m [E3 6a 4c] ''G Fogg, H Fogg 21/6/09 Prior cleaning on abseil. ''This is the leftmost corner of the three-toothed overhang just right of base-camp boulder. 1. 46m Climb the ramp to ledge [level with start of the Emperor] and then left to overhanging corner. Solve the problem of what to do, then thrutch up [well-protected]. Enjoyable climbing follows to good ledge. 2. 25m Continue to top and boulder belay. Abseil descent from tat via ledge ideal.

'''VALE OF GALGOPLEYE''' 70m [E4 6a/b 5a] ''H Fogg, G Fogg 20/7/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF. ''This is the rightmost of the three-toothed overhangs. 1. 35m Start as for Yammerschooner to ledge. A peg protects the move off the ledge to a tenable position and protection below the overhang. Getting further is hard. Higher up transfer delicately across to the right-hand crack and continue to a sloping belay at the left-hand end of the Emperor ledge. 2. 35m Bridge up chimney and continue to top to boulder belay.

'''EMPEROR'S NOSE''' 60m [E2 5b, 5b] ''S. Gallwey, W. Lee. August 1980'' This climb takes the line of the obvious corner crack on the left side of the arete with the prominently overhanging nose near the top. Start from the base of the chimney/gully, traverse left around the arete that forms the eastern wall of the gully. Start below the corner, just left of a square-cut overhang at 4 m. 1) 27 m. Climb the wall to the ledge at 5 m. (crux 1). Climb the corner until the crack in the back of it closes at approx. 15 m. With difficulty reach a large hold on the arete to the right. Swing out onto this and mantle-shelf it (crux 2). Continue up the arete to a ledge. Step back left into corner and up easy ground to belay at back of ledge. Avoid loose flake. (2) 33 m. Climb the good crack past the nose to exit onto a ledge on the right, just below the top. Belay. Good protection though some large pieces are needed for the top pitch.

Variation: Stay in corner on first pitch. H Fogg, G Fogg 13/6/04

===Emperor West Face===

[[File:DATopo2.jpg|370px|DATopo2.jpg]]

'''6 TALKING GOD''' 30m [E4 6a] S Gallwey, J Bergin. July 1991 An exciting and exposed climb up the right hand overhanging and undercut arete of the emperor. Climb the first pitch of Dark Angel, and continue for approximately 4m to belay on small stance underneath the first of two overhangs on the arete to the right. Start - In the corner, level with the lower overhang. Make several hard moves diagonally leftwards across the wall just above the overhangs, to gain a vertical crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break where another hard move is encountered to get established in the crack above. Continue on up the crack until it is possible to reach the edge of the arete just below the overhanging section. Step left for a good rest. Climb the overhanging arete on huge holds to get another rest below the nose. Ascend past the nose on the right hand side, making a hard move to get established on the face. Reach back left to the arete and climb this more easily to the top. Good protection, though camming devices are not recommended too close to the edge of the arete.

'''TALKING GOD DIRECT START''' [E5 6a/b] From the Dark Angel belay, climb the corner to under the overhang. Fix protection and traverse left to rest on ledge. Pause. Traverse back right under overhang to gain base of crack. Continue to top. H. Fogg 22/6/2014 Onsight.

'''7 DARK ANGEL''' 60m [HVS 4c, 5a] O. Jacob, S. Gallwey , June 1980 The route takes the line of the ramp that runs up the western wall of the emperor, forming an obvious corner in its upper sections. Start in a sentry box overlooking the lake, just around the corner from the gully. (1) 25 m. Climb the crack to where the rock steepens. Traverse left for 3 m. and climb the flakes to a sloping ledge below the prominent roof. (2) 35 m. Move right into the main corner and climb it to the top. Crux is surmounting the first overlap. Good protection. This excellent route has unfortunately become mossy in recent years which has spoiled its looks. It is not a problem when dry, rather it lends itself to smoother and more satisfying hand-jams. '''Alternative Start''' - 12 m 12m [E1 5b] S. Gallwey, W. Lee, August 1980 Climb the obvious jamming crack which splits the east wall of the gully to join Dark Angel at a large ledge.

'''STONE THE ROSES''' 60m [E3 5c, 5b] The blank vertical west-facing wall. 1. 30m Mantel onto start ledge then follow the cracks which lead to arête at horizontal break. Move back onto face to follow crack to belay at mid-way ledge. 2. 30m Move right to wide crack. Where crack forks, take left-hand option to top. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan 5/4/08 Cleaned on abseil.

Alternative finish: [5b] Take the right-hand option to top. [in error] G Fogg, H Fogg '08

'''CAPRICORN''' 60m [E5 6a/b] Start as for Stone the Roses. 1. 30m Follow the Right-hand crack until it is possible [but hard] to gain the bottom of the thin crack further right. Thin climbing with just enough protection leads to the horizontal break [big cams]. More moves lead to thin ledge/corner and a committing move to higher slanting ledge to right which leads to belay ledge. 2. 30m As for Stone the Roses. H Fogg, G Fogg 24/8/09 Cleaned on abseil.

===Main Face===

The bottom section of this part of the cliff is covered with a vertical garden of wet-loving vegetation and climbing on this is neither possible nor desirable [a recent scar on this is due to a natural failure of the mechanical strength of the vegetation and not to any misguided cleaning by climbers]. This does not shorten the climbs -- they start level with most of the rest but it does make getting to their foot more difficult -- a little adventure in itself.

'''THE KHALID QUESTION''' 75m [E1 5a 5b 5b] This begins as for The Medial Axis but takes the blunt arete to the left up the centre of this wall. 1. 30m. Start as for The Medial Axis but move left to belay on the second large ledge/terrace. 2. 25m. Continue up the broken crack for 2 or 3m then step left at rowan sapling and climb to left of arete to gain cracks at arete. Continue to ledge. 3. 20m. Begin up left-slanting flakes then go up straight to tooth and corner. G.Fogg[2] H.Fogg[3] 27/7/2014 Onsight.

'''THE MEDIAL AXIS''' 75m [E2 5a 5c 5c] This is in the bay between Emperor Buttress and the Main Face. 1. 30m 5a. On the right hand side of the bay is a slab with a crack up the centre. The crack sports tufts of frochan festooned with moss-like filmy fern. Climb a series of edges to the right of this, finding protection in the crack, without needlessly disturbing the vegetation, to a large woodrush ledge. Continue up the broken groove to a small grassy stance about 5 or 10m below the flat face. 2. 30m 5c. Continue to flat face, stepping over clubmoss. The face is immaculate. The arrow-straight crack accepts small wires and micros. 3. 15m 5c. Step left and finish up crack through small overhang. Tricky. G.Fogg [1], H.Fogg [2&3] 15/6/2014. Top pitches cleaned G.Fogg flashed H.

'''PERNE IN A GYRE''' 80m [E1 5a/b 5a/b 5a 5a] A devious route, not all visible from below, with a couple of moments of notable exposure. Location: At the left-hand side of the embayment defined at its right-hand side by the blank face of the second pitch of The Immortal Path. Approach: The start of the approach ledge is marked by a slender inverted truncated triangular buttress one third the height of the cliff. A few metres past this brings you below two pillars in succession above. Pitches 1 and 2 take the East-facing corners formed by these pillars. Lack of precision in the grading is the result of the difficulty of judging when cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. 1. 25m 5a/b Climb from the ledge to the base of the first corner and continue to the base of the second corner. 2. 10m 5a/b The second corner. Belay on the top of the pillar at the square-cut rock ledge. 3. 20m 5a Follow the diagonal crack rightwards to the arete and around it to gain the start of the vertical crack which widens rapidly as it rises. Belay at the terminal spike of the flake, standing on the large jammed block. 4. 25m 5a Continue to the top of the next huge flake and make an airy step across the crevasse to the left-hand side of the slab and follow a short crack to the large rough corner. The last couple of metres at the top are steep. G Fogg, M Griffin 26/9/2020 Pitches 1 and 2 onsight.

'''THE DELTA VARIANT''' 80m [E2 4c 5c 5b] 1. Same as ''The Immortal Path. ''2. Climb the crack as for ''The Immortal Path,'' but instead of moving to the arete, continue up the crack. A no.4 Camalot protects this section. 3. 40m 5b Step across the corner and climb the small corner and groove behind the small rowan tree. No sling on the tree or its root, please, as it seems only barely attached itself. Keep going up until the way above peters out. Make an exposed and exciting but, happily, not entirely unprotected traverse left, to gain a crack system leading up. Near the top, it opens up and looks easy but the difficulties continue to the very top, when you exit left, from beneath a block over the corner, to squirm out into the sunshine. An intermediate belay may be taken below the top to allow communication with your second. G Fogg, M Griffin 29/6/2021 Top pitch cleaned on abseil 2020

'''THE IMMORTAL PATH''' 82m [E2 4c 5c 5a 4c] Approach: Traverse from the foot of Dark Angel. About 20m ahead, a flat face at half height extends down along its edge to the ledge. 1.22m 4c Follow up beside the face in a cleaned channel to a large sloping woodrush ledge. Hard to start. 2. 20m 5c. From the top of the block, climb the crack which widens as it rises. Where the crack becomes offwidth, place a large piece (no. 11 Hex is good) and, using a narrow ledge, gain the arete. Follow the arete, and the crack which runs from this point, to the belay ledge. Beware of the large spike at the ledge which may be used for balance but should not be pulled on. From the belay, continue along the ledge to where it reveals itself as a flake. Drop down behind the flake to a good belay nest below a steep corner. 3. 25m 5a Climb the corner and then follow the large broken crack to the top of Geronimo buttress. Continue over some stacked boulders to a large recess. Belay. 4. 15m 4c + 8m Exit recess to the left, maintaining respect for the exposure. A large rounded boulder set into the hillside above provides a positive belay for a large sling or rope loop. Pitches 1and 2 onsight. G Fogg, M Griffin 6/7/2020. Pitch 3 cleaned on abseil and climbed. G Fogg, M Griffin, P Flynn 20/7/2020

'''THE TOWER OF DARKNESS''' 80m [E1 4c 5b 5b 5a 4c] Approach: Past the start of The Immortal Path, the ledge narrows. Continue along this to a small notch at the base of the next corner system. Belay. 1. 10m 4c. A couple of metres of rock gives way to some steep woodrush swimming to a comfortable ledge below the steep vee corner. 2. 10m 5b The corner. 3. 20m 5b Continue to ledge. 4. 25m 5a (pitch 3 of The Immortal Path) Up steep corner and then larger broken corner, over stacked boulders to large recess. 5. 15m 4c Track right. Whichever line is taken in this top part, it is still climbing, not as easy as it looks like being, and still potentially serious. G Fogg, M Griffin 14/9/2020 Climbed onsight.

'''GERONIMO''' 70m [E2 5b 5b 5b] This route leads up to and through the clean crack through the bare overhanging bulge at threequarters height to the left of Cuinne Flaithuilach. Traverse the ledge as for Cuinne Flaithuilach. At the end of the sketchy section is a corner. Start here. Cuinne Flaithuilach is 3m further on. 1. Ascend the crack above the corner to a good ledge. 2. Follow the crack with trapped flakes, through a small overhang and slab above to ledges 3. Second should traverse left to belay below the crack through the overhang. Pull through the overhang to glorious climbing above. Higher is a short broken crack to top of pillar and ledges. 4. Diff climbing and scrambling leads to moorland. G Fogg, P Britton 26/3/2011 Onsight. Cleaned on lead. One rest for cleaning on pitch 2. First ascent took over seven hours. Further ascents should take somewhat less.

'''CUINNE FLAITHIULACH''' 70m [HVS 5a, 4b, 5a] J Bergin, M Keenleyside, 20th Aug. 1991 This route, for a long time, the only one on the main face proper, climbs an impressive dark steep corner with excellent jamming and bridging on the left side (east) of a prominent bay in the middle of the North facing cliff. The start is reached by a traverse right from the foot of Dark Angel, which is best done in boots, and the boots then thrown down to the track underneath (or carried to the top !!). The traverse is airy but there is ample protection and the moves are no more that V Diff. The first two pitches can be combined, but you will loose contact with your second, and there is the slight possibility of the rope getting jammed in a corner. 1. 25m. Climb the arete to the left of the corner until you are forced to escape to the slab on the right, which is climbed easily until the corner steepens. Some delicate bridging and/or lay-backing (crux) brings you to the base of an overhang. Move left onto the wall and climb to gain the corner above. Belay. 2. 15m. Climb easily up the corner and gain a grassy recess and belay. (It might be advisable to belay to the left in the recess out of the direct line of the final pitch due to some potentially loose rock. 3. 30m. Climb the steep crack above with the aid of some huge jugs to a small terrace, continue up above this and follow the continuing crack to the top. The last section is impending but well protected.

'''ANCHOR ALLEY, GREYSTONE''' 75m [E2 5b, 5c, 5a] A soaring line on the right-hand side of the bay of which Cuinne Flaithiuilach is on the left. Bring lots of largish hexes or friends for pitch 1. Approach as for the last i.e. tied on and putting in protection as required. Belay 2m left of the corner overhead. 1. 25m Climb short vertical face to slab and traverse this to base of corner and cracks on right. Ascend jamming crack to jammed block and offwidth. Belay bridged across corner on left. 2. 25m Continue up corner past two bulging sections and make tricky exit onto grassy ledge on right. Belay anchors 2m to right at foot of next pitch. 3. 25m Climb straight up just right of jutting nose. Belay on top of this -- one of the best belay perches in the Comeraghs. Scramble the last two or three metres to heathery top. Traverse off left. G Fogg [1 &3] H Fogg [2] 22/7/2011 Prior cleaning on abseil.

'''A MAST FOR THE SOUL''' 75m [E1 5b, 5b, 5a] 
Interesting and varied climbing. It starts from the same point as Journey to the Great Flake and shares the same top pitch as Anchor Alley, Greystone 
1. 35m Start as for Journey to the Great Flake but trend left to reach the slab. This is traversed delicately to gain the crack through the overhang. Climb the crack to reach the belay at the ledge on top of a flake. 
2. 15m Jam the bulging crack above the belay and negotiate the less-straightforward patch above to belay on a good grassy ledge. 
3. 25m As for Anchor Alley.

The second and third pitches may be climbed as one. Indeed, you might not even notice the ledge - as happened to the first ascentionist on a recent, presumed, second ascent. 
G. Fogg [1], H. Fogg [2], R. Pearson [3] 22/5/2017 Cracks cleaned on abseil.

'''JOURNEY TO THE GREAT FLAKE ''' 60m  [E1 5b, 5b] 
''G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell  15/5/2016  Onsight.'' 
An entertaining route demanding a wide range of climbing skills. It takes a plumb-line path from the ledge to the left-hand edge of the Great Flake and through an overhang on the skyline. Lower down it passes through a section of shallow chimney formed by a small corner on the right and thin jutting blocks on the left. 
Approach:  Traverse onto ledge from right as for ''Crooked Smile''. Continue, crawling under a low roof and on 4m until directly below the afore-mentioned chimney. 
'''1'''.  30m  Delicate climbing leads to the smooth chimney. Once established in it, progress is made by back-and-foot bridging. Above, move left onto the face to tackle the bulge and, with right hand on the arete, continue to belay at a small stance just left of and level with the Great Flake ledge. 
'''2'''.  30m  Climb up, trending right, to the crack through the overhang at the edge of the Flake. This is overcome by gymnastic bridging and jamming. Easier climbing to the belay. 
Descent: The ''Atom Ant'' abseil point is a couple of metres to the right around the corner

===Black Chocolate gully area===

'''This area contains the biggest concentration of good quality hard climbs in the coum. The initial west facing wall adjacent to crooked smile is probably the only area in the Comeraghs approaching route saturation. This clean cut wall, being just off vertical, allows for hard climbing on some very small holds. Having the afternoon sun on your back gives a welcome boost to climbing on this high mountain crag. There are two old abseil bolts at the top of Atom Ant. Test these well with good belay back up before use.'''

[[File:Cs 9 to 13.png|400px|Cs 9 to 13.png]]

'''9 CROOKED SMILE''' 60m [HVS 4b, 5a] S. Gallwey (2), E. Hernstadt (1) June 1981 This climb takes the crooked chimney/corner system which splits the arete formed between the main face of the cliff and the left wall of the gully. Start just left of the base of the arete on a large ledge. Traverse in from right. (1) 20 m. Climb the obvious flakes on the arete and then up the right-hand wall. Traverse right to a crack splitting a large block. From top of block, step across to large ledge and belay in base of a short corner. (2) 40 m. Climb corner and traverse left to base of chimney. Climb chimney to hanging slab leading up left. Climb slab until forced out onto the arete by the overhang. Pass the overhang and then climb up diagonally rightwards to the top of the crag.

===Atom Ant Wall===

'''10 TYGER TYGER''' 35m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. April 1988 This route climbs the steep, straight crack on the exposed face just right of Crooked Smile. Start from the belay below the 2nd pitch of Crooked Smile. Climb up the left-hand side of a large flake leaning against the face. From the top of the flake, climb the wall and crack to its end.

'''11 GRENDEL''' 40m [E1 5b] E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey August 1984 This route takes the steep corner just right of Tyger Tyger. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) As for Crooked Smile. (2) Climb the short corner and step right to a large flake. From the top of the flake, step around to the right into the base of the main corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, which is turned to the right (crux). Climb the short corner above to the top.

'''12 ATOM ANT''' 40m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. August 1984 This route takes a diagonal line up the wall to the right of Grendel. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) - As for Crooked Smile. (2) - Follow Grendel to the base of the large corner. Climb the diagonal crack line trending rightwards to a small ledge. Traverse left to join Grendel for the short upper corner. Strenuous. '''Direct finish''' S Gallwey, J Bergin. June 1991 Climb straight up the face with good holds and protection

'''SLIPPERY PEOPLE''' 30m [E3 6a] S Gallwey, June 1992 This route climbs the wall about 3m left of Controlled Burning, joining a good crack-line at mid point. Start - Scramble up the leftwards trending diagonal grassy ramp which starts at the base of the chimney. Scramble up another right ward trending grassy ramp to belay at the base of the wall. Climb up the wall on very small holds, using small wires for protection. Above a small overlap, a good crack presents itself and easier climbing leads to a series of round holes in the face. A hard move near the top puts you in position to finish by grabbing the edge of Controlled Burning to the right. From the ledge, the direct finish to Atom Ant, probably provides the best way up.

'''13 CONTROLLED BURNING''' 30m [E2 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. May 1991 This climb takes the obvious vertical crack up the right hand side of the face 2m to the right of Atom Ant. Climb the wall (crux) with holds and protection improving with height. Gain a good crack and climb this to the top of the tower. From the ledge, climb directly up the face to the right of the direct finish of Atom Ant. Good protection.

===Grey Hotel Buttress===

'''DAMOCLES''' 70m [E4 6a 4c] This starts in the corner at the left-hand side of Grey Hotel Buttress, just right of a deep wet cave. A good view of the route is to be had whilst abseiling Atom Ant wall. 1. 48m Climb the initial awkward corner [small friends] and onto slab at right. Find some protection for the blank vertical/bulging section which leads to better holds and then to ledge. Go left around the arête into the upper corner which has good protection [small wires]. Exiting corner onto arête at ‘damocles’ block is also hard. Continue to belay at large triangular block. 2. 20m Easy climbing to top. Belay at top of Grey Hotel. H Fogg, G Fogg 17/8/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF.

[[File:Birdman wall.png|400px|Birdman wall.png]]

'''15 GREY HOTEL''' 85m [E3 6a,5a,5b] Pitches 1 & 2 -S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. (alternate leads) May 1987 Pitch 3 - S Gallwey, J Bergin. Spring 1990 This climb takes the grey face/tower situated in the deep gully to the right of Crooked Smile. The initial wall faces out towards the lake and is about 10 m. across. Recommend combining pitches 1&2. Start - At centre of face. (1) 25 m. Climb up diagonally rightwards to top of choss. Gain a horizontal break above with a vertical crack at its left-hand side. Climb up strenuously just right of the crack, making hard moves to gain a small resting ledge near the right-hand arete. Climb the face to the left to gain the left-hand crack again and follow this up until level with a large sloping ledge on the right. Traverse right to gain this and belay. (2) 20 m. Climb the overhanging corner above, past a ledge on the left-hand wall, to exit onto a large grassy ledge. (From here it is possible to scramble up to the right onto the Birdman ledge). (3) 40m. Climb the pleasant corner at the back of the ledge into overhanging territory until it is possible to gain a second non-overhanging corner to the right. Follow up the face of the ramp with the off-width crack on the left (Small wires in the left-hand wall). The crux is at 3/4 height. Respect the precarious - looking block at the top.

===Black Chocolate Gully - East side===

'''16 BIRDMAN''' 70m [E2 4a 5b 5b] O. Jacob (1,3), S. Gallwey (2). November 1981 The Birdman headwall is very steep and offers superb climbing. It may be reached by following the first two pitches of Birdman, or better by way of the first two pitches of Grey Hotel. It is also worth abseiling into it for its own sake. It is located high up on the left hand side of the upper section of Black Chocolate gully. This climb is located in the gully to the right of Grey Hotel, finishing up the superb crack which splits the top headwall near its left-hand side. The 1st pitch is poor. Start - At a grassy section of the left wall of the gully just up from a large wedged block. (1) 18 m. Climb up leftward on mixed ground to the ridge. Continue up rightwards on ridge to gain a large grassy terrace and belay at the base of a short lay-back corner. (2) 30 m. Layback strenuously for 8 m. then scramble up right to a good ledge beneath the headwall. (3) 21 m. Climb obvious steep crack at left-hand end of headwall. At overhangs, use both cracks up to a little ledge. Climb diagonally right to the top.

'''17 PLANET CLARE''' 20m [E3 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. Sept. 1990 Climbs the wall to the right of Birdman through 4 small overhangs. Start - In the centre of the Birdman ledge. Best to belay somewhat to the right as there is a potentially loose block in the initial corner. Climb the rightward facing corner flake in the centre of the wall past the 'loose' block to the first overhang. Climb strenuously up a crack line to the right on finger jams and lay-aways to gain a good hand hold and thereafter the large ledge. Exit to the left.

'''18 RAGING COW''' 17m [HVS 5a] S. Gallwey, O. Jacob November 1981 This route takes the obvious crack to the right of the top pitch of Birdman. Start - At the right-hand end of the Birdman ledge. Climb the steep crack to the top.

'''BLACK CHOCOLATE GULLY''' ##### 90m S D Ellickson, T Sherman, 24. 3. 1963 The location of this climb is uncertain, despite best efforts of the editors. The only known attempt to repeat it was thought to be VS. This description is taken from an old IMC newsletter. 1. 21m. climb the buttress and step right into the gully. continue to stance and belay at large chock-stone. 2. 13m. Follow the gully to the second chock-stone. 3. 13m. Chimney past second chock-stone to belay beneath overhanging chock. 4. 19m. Step across gully to ledge in corner and climb the parallel cracks then back right to the gully and continue 6m to the bottom of a lichenous corner. Belay. 5. 12m. Climb the corner - steep and vegetated at the top. 6. 19m. The gully opens out into mixed rock and heather which is climbed directly or by a long traverse over the right wall.

'''CENTRAL PILLAR OF CHOCOLATE''' 35m [HVS 4c, 5a, 5b] 
At the back of the gully, the Central Pillar rises as a tower of stacked detached blocks. This route tackles the tower whereas 'Black Chocolate Gully' does seem actually to follow the gully up on the right. 
1. 15m 4c Climb the vegetated buttress, using the gully where prudent, to reach the wide crack behind the square-section block on the right-hand side of the Pillar and up this to belay on top of the block. 
2. 15m 5a Chimney the wide crack behind the next block to its top and continue up the ever-widening crack on the right with increasing difficulty. The only protection for this section is a micro wire on the left [unless you are carrying a very large cam]. 
3. 5m [+15 heather] 5b The dramatic jutting finger on left beckons, providing an exposed and exciting move or two to climb. Continue up the heather slope to find a belay at the rock band. 
If the finger does not appeal, a less intimidating option is offered by the open-book corner on the right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin, 19/6/2017 Onsight.

===Black Chocolate Gully - West side===

'''COLOURS ON THE WATER''' 45m [E3 5c] This is the striking crack threequarters of the way up the gully on the right hand side, l. 10m Climb crack to ]edge. 2. 35m Continue to top [Climb as one pitch] Pitch 1 G Fogg, S Gallwey 9/6/06 onsight [as new start to Satanic Majesty] Full route G Fogg, S Gallwey 17/6 06 onsight. Cleaned and abseil point put in 21/8/07

'''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a] From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past `Colours' to crack system near arete. Belay. [preliminary pitch ] Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete. S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001, Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK]

'''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E3 5c 5b] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989 An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully. Very hard to protect [doubtful peg near start gives little confidence], moves 5c at least. Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully. 1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay. 2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.
===The West Face===

'''This consists of a pleasant series of buttresses and ribs at the West end of the North Facing Cliff. They possess an airy and open feeling which is a welcome change from the gully area to the left. The climbs are best located with reference to the West end buttress, the west most buttress with a gully to the right. The buttress appears to lean against the rest of the cliff. The arete of this buttress is taken by 'A Walk On The West End' while the face to the left (north) is taken by 'Perpetual Motion'. The next arete to the east divides in two at midpoint to form a double feature with a groove between and a capping overhang at the top. 'Ansty's Desire' and 'The Tailor' take the left and right aretes respectively.'''

Photo with most routes here: [[Media:CS_TheWestEndF9.jpg]]

'''FILAMINGO''' 45m [HVS 5a] Clean [now] corner immediately right of gully. Abseil descent as for 'Prehistoric World', P Britton, C Ennis, Hh Fogg; N Walls 13/6/04

'''RED WALL AND ROOF [ED'S ROOF]''' 25m [E2 5c] Back on the north-facing rock beyond Filamingo, past an undercut at ground level. Climb the curving corner crack and slab to obvious crack through roof. Continue to belay at boulder above. Descent is either by abseil from old nut plus new tat or by slithering down the near-vertical woodrush to fetch up at the foot of Filamingo. G Fogg, H Fogg 22/8/08 Onsight.

'''STEPHEN'S CRACK''' 15m [HVS 5a/b] Climb right-hand edge of slab at Ed’s Roof. Move right, around arête to broken crack. Generous jugs at the breaks make up for slight overhang. G Fogg, H Fogg, P Brennan. 13/6/09 Onsight.

'''CHUCKLER''' 20m [E4 6a] Traverse left from secret sentry-box to base of west-facing wall. Climb thin crack through small overhang to ledge. Abseil descent [tat]. H Fogg, G Fogg 22/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''THE DIAMOND''' 18m [E3 6a] The cleaned crack up the centre of the flat face. Abseil off ledge from tat at right. H Fogg, G Fogg 8/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER''' 16m [E2 5c] The left-slanting crack that joins to top of the Diamond. H Fogg, G Fogg 21/6/09 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER ARETE''' 60m HS 4c, 4c, 4c 
This long arete is a scruffy companion to Anstey's Desire to the right and a counterpoint to the the short hard technical Griddler and Diamond to the left. 
1. 15m. Step across the ledge and climb the distinctive three-piece pillar to the ledge [the top for The Diamond and Griddler]. Continue around to the right and up a short slab to the large flat ledge. 
2. 30m. From the left hand side of the ledge, climb the cracks and step airily back right to regain the arete. There follows the long broken scruffy section. Keep to the right hand side of the arete on the slabs. 
3. 15m. The clean steep more challenging-looking top section of the arete. 
G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell 10/05/2017 Onsight.
===The West End===

'''RAMPANT RABBIT''' [HVS] The broken crack a couple of metres left of 'Red-line Vibrations'. M Walsh, H Hennessy '07

'''RED-LINE VIBRATIONS''' 40m [E3 5b 5c] “Start 5m left of Ansty’s Desire. 1. 20m Steep gnarly fist-crack to technical ramp, then easy traverse to base of arête. 2. 20m Bold. Climb wall left of arête to small ledge. Move up and right around arête to large ledge [Anstey’s belay].” 3. Pitch 3 is pitch 2 of The Tailor. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan June 2007

'''ANSTY'S DESIRE''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5a] J Bergin, S Gallwey, 3rd June 1991 Start just down and left of the corner formed where the west end buttress joins the main cliff, at a broken corner with a steep slab to its right. 1. 30m. Layaway up the broken corner until it is possible to step left on to a slab, continue and climb an off-width crack on the right to a grassy ledge, then climb the off-width spectacularly to a large pulpit and belay. 2. 45m. Traverse left onto the arete on large holds and climb to the top. Crux at mid height. (50m ropes necessary to reach belay).

'''THE TAILOR''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5b] J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 1. 30m. As for Ansty's Desire. 2. 45m. Gain the right hand arete, which is climbed to the top in a spectacular position. See the note re. belaying for Ansty's Desire.

'''PERPETUAL MOTION''' 65m [E1 4b, 5b, 4c] J Bergin. S Gallwey. 23rd May 1991 Start approx 10 m to the left of the arete A Walk On The West End in an obvious west facing corner. 1. 20m. Climb the corner on good holds. Break onto the face at the overhang and continue on to belay on a small ledge on the face. 2. 20m. Climb the crack with increasing difficulties. Surmount the overhang on small holds and climb to the base of the next, larger overhang. Traverse delicately to the left and then continue up to belay on the arete. 3. 25m. Climb the arete to the top. This pitch is shared with A Walk On The West End, and may be made slightly harder by keeping to the left of the arete.

'''A WALK ON THE WEST END''' 55m [HS 4a,4c] J. Bergin, S Gallwey. 16th May 1991 This route climbs the obvious arete at the end of the cliff. It is probably the best lower grade route in the Comeraghs, with a real feeling of traveling and exposure. The one 4c move is very well protected and could be aided if necessary. Start - on a slab on the west face of the arete. 1. 30m. Quickly gain the arete proper, and climb it to a large and convenient belay ledge. 2. 25m. Continue on up the sharp arete to the top. The crux is shortly above the belay.

'''WEST END SLAB''' 60m VS 4c, 4c 
Very nice slab climbing that starts at the same point as A Walk on the West End but takes the centre of the slab rather than the arete. 
1. 30m From the lowest point, track rightwards towards the centre of the slab and follow the overlap that curves on up. After 30m, move left to belay on the prominent clean nose.. 
2. 30m Traverse the vegetated ledge rightwards to reach clean rock. From here, aim to pass to the right of the rowans overhead. This means making repeated moves to the right. If in doubt step right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin. 8/7/2017 Onsight.

North-facing Cliff

2021-07-23T12:26:36Z

Daveh: Formatting Cleanup

[[File:Nfc.jpg|200px|Nfc.jpg]] [Photo shows West side of Main gully, Emperor Buttress and Main Face]

These cliffs have so far provided the best and hardest routes in the Comeragh Mountains. The rock is steep and clean cut with well developed vertical jointing. Though the main face is a bit gloomy in all but the nicest weather, many of the climbs are in fact on the side walls of the large gullies bounding and bisecting the cliff and therefore receive a fair amount of sunshine.

The cliff is best approached via a high sheep track above the southern shore of the lake. Gain height steeply from the south east corner of the lake and then contour the hillside on some sheep tracks.

Descent is best achieved by continuing up the hillside until a sheep track is encountered and then traversing off to the left (east) to gain the large gully. (In the dark, it is better to go higher still to a second sheep track before traversing east). For climbs west of Black Chocolate gully, it is best to traverse off to the west. However, it is important to gain open ground before descending, rather than attempting the open gully which has a tricky section lower down.

==Coumshingaun North-facing Cliffs Layout==

'''Main Gully [East side]''' Sea Breeze Karaluk '''Main Gully [West side]''' Amelia Harvest Moon Sleep of Reason Sleep of Reason direct '''Emperor Buttress''' Twin-crack Corner Kishon Prophets of Baal Horeb Yammerschooner Vale of Galgopleye Emperor’s Nose '''Emperor Buttress West face''' Talking God Dark Angel Dark Angel- direct start Stone the Roses Capricorn '''Main Face''' The Khalid Question The Medial Axis Perne in a Gyre The Delta Variant The Immortal Path The Tower of Darkness Geronimo Cuinne Flaithulach Anchor Alley, Greystone A Mast For The Soul Journey to the Great Flake '''Atom Ant Wall ''' Crooked Smile Tyger tyger Grendel Atom Ant Slippery People Controlled Burning '''Grey Hotel Buttress''' Damocles Grey Hotel '''Black Chocolate Gully – Birdman Wall''' Birdman Planet Clare Raging cow '''Black Chocolate Gully''' Central Pillar of Chocolate '''Bk. Choc. Gully – Satanic Majesty Wall''' Colours on the Water Satanic Majesty Prehistoric World '''West Face''' Filamingo Ed’s Roof Stephen’s Crack Chuckler The Diamond Griddler Griddler Arete '''The West End''' Run Rabbit Red-line Vibrations Anstey’s Desire The Tailor Perpetual Motion A Walk on the West End West End Slab

[[File:Cs north3.png|800px|Cs north3.png]]

==ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS==

===Main Gully East side [West-facing wall]===

'''Sea Breeze''' 20m [E1 5b] ''P. Scanlan, B. McConnell Aug 2015 [On Sight]'' Start at the front of the lower buttress (left side), climb steeply up the small crack line to gain a ledge, the line narrows until the crack widens half way up the buttress. Now climb the wide crack on the other wise blank slab, hand jams are not possible but good holds can be obtained within the crack, 5 friend needed to protect. Make strenuous moves up to small ledge and place protection before making hard delicate moves to the belay ‘pulpit’.

'''KARALUK''' 20m [HS 4b] ''J Bergin, D McGrath, April 1988'' Start at the left end (lower) of the buttress, and right of a wide and broken looking crack. Climb up steeply on large holds to the base of an overhang, traverse diagonally right until it is possible to climb a crack to the belay 'pulpit'.

'''The following two little routes are on a fairly clean buttress approx. 30 meters higher up the gully and on the same side as Karaluk'''

'''Sadrack''' 10m [HS 4b] ''J. Bergin, R Smith. June 2012'' Start at the left end of the buttress,, about 1 meter to the right of the left edge. Step up and diagonally leftwards until you reach the top left end of the buttress, and under a large block. Continue directly upwards, then carefully up the vegetation to belay about 4 meters from the top.

'''Nanuk.''' 10m [S/VD 4a?] ''J. Bergin, R. Smith. June 2012.'' This route starts about 2 meters to the right of Sadrak, under a small left trending ramp which starts after about 2meters....the first move is probably harder than VDiff. Gain the ramp and follow it to the top which is right of a large block. Continue directly upwards, then tread carefully on the vegetation to belay back about 4 meters.

===Main Gully West side [East-facing Wall]===

'''This is the wall bounding the east side of the North Facing Cliff proper. It is located opposite and slightly lower than the Karaluk buttress. The climbing is steep and fingery on this vertical wall, with good cracks and sharp incuts.'''

'''AMELIA''' 23m VS 4c ''J Bergin. A Widger, 25 Aug. 1991 ''A fine wall route which starts almost directly under the left most of three steep corners facing the lake. 1. Climb up the steep left end of a ramp, where a few delicate moves lead to easier climbing to gain the corner. This is climbed using the arete on the left. At top of corner, trend right and find the least-unappealing line. Top-out horrendous.

'''HARVEST MOON''' 27m [HVS 5a/b] ''J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 ''Start at the first section of an obvious ramp which starts immediately right of a damp section of the cliff. Climb the ramp until it is possible to bridge across to a diagonal crack to the left of a huge 'detached' block. Some strenuous jams bring you to reach the top of the flake (it might be advisable not to use camming devices behind the large block which is detached from the face). From here, follow the steep curving crack in the corner above to the top. Variation: E2 5c Follow the steep curving crack on the face which is hard uncomfortable 5c

'''THE SLEEP OF REASON''' 35m [E3 6a] ''S. Gallwey (unseconded), 7 May 1989 ''An athletic route of sustained difficulty and interest, climbing up the left (east-facing) side of the obvious steep arete where the east and north faces intersect. Start at the base of the arete. Climb out onto resting stance on right-hand wall. Reach back left into crack and make a hard move to gain better holds. Continue up with difficulty until it is possible to follow parallel diagonal cracks leftwards to the overlap. Gain hold on right above overlap, and then make a long reach out right for small incut hold. Hard strenuous moves upwards establish one on better holds above the overlap (crux). Move diagonally right to the arete to gain a good handhold, which once stood upon, provides the first "hands off" rest of the route. Climb up the arete on slightly easier ground to a ledge about 4 m. below the top. Move left off ledge to climb a short overhanging wall on large holds to the top.

'''SLEEP OF REASON DIRECT''' 35m [E5 6a] ''H Fogg, G Fogg 2009 ''This does not follow the cracks leftward but goes straight up. Sustained.
===The Emperor area & main North facing cliff===

'''The Emperor, a startling great prow of rock with a cracked overhang (the nose) near the top, juts out of the North Facing Cliff near its east end. Several good routes tackle its exposed flank.'''

===Emperor Buttress===

'''TWIN-CRACK CORNER''' 35m [E1 5b] ''G Fogg, H Fogg 8/8/08 Onsight. ''Gain rushy ledge at 6m. Move to right-hand side of ledge. Climb boldly past bulge [in-situ peg, placed on lead] to eponymous corner.

'''KISHON''' 50m [HVS 5a] ''G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning. ''Just left of base-camp, climb/chimney the edge of the detached flake. At the ledge, move out from the corner onto the short hanging slab at left to gain the bottom of the thin crack that leads to the corner above and thence to the higher corner above to left. At the top is a short vertical wall with good gear. With 50m ropes, it is necessary to belay above this and let your second continue through the last 2m to ledge. Abseil descent from in-situ slings.

'''PROPHETS OF BAAL''' 48m [E1 5b] ''G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning. ''Start as for ''Kishon''. From ledge, ascend corner system to right, through overhang, heading for higher wider overhang and niche above to left, and on to abseil ledge.

'''HOREB''' 20m [E2 6a] ''H Fogg G Fogg 22/5/10 Abseil inspection.A test-piece from the abseil-ledge to the top. ''From the left-hand side of the ledge, straight up through overhang, following crack.

'''YAMMERSCHOONER''' 70m [E3 6a 4c] ''G Fogg, H Fogg 21/6/09 Prior cleaning on abseil. ''This is the leftmost corner of the three-toothed overhang just right of base-camp boulder. 1. 46m Climb the ramp to ledge [level with start of the Emperor] and then left to overhanging corner. Solve the problem of what to do, then thrutch up [well-protected]. Enjoyable climbing follows to good ledge. 2. 25m Continue to top and boulder belay. Abseil descent from tat via ledge ideal.

'''VALE OF GALGOPLEYE''' 70m [E4 6a/b 5a] ''H Fogg, G Fogg 20/7/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF. ''This is the rightmost of the three-toothed overhangs. 1. 35m Start as for Yammerschooner to ledge. A peg protects the move off the ledge to a tenable position and protection below the overhang. Getting further is hard. Higher up transfer delicately across to the right-hand crack and continue to a sloping belay at the left-hand end of the Emperor ledge. 2. 35m Bridge up chimney and continue to top to boulder belay.

'''EMPEROR'S NOSE''' 60m [E2 5b, 5b] ''S. Gallwey, W. Lee. August 1980'' This climb takes the line of the obvious corner crack on the left side of the arete with the prominently overhanging nose near the top. Start from the base of the chimney/gully, traverse left around the arete that forms the eastern wall of the gully. Start below the corner, just left of a square-cut overhang at 4 m. 1) 27 m. Climb the wall to the ledge at 5 m. (crux 1). Climb the corner until the crack in the back of it closes at approx. 15 m. With difficulty reach a large hold on the arete to the right. Swing out onto this and mantle-shelf it (crux 2). Continue up the arete to a ledge. Step back left into corner and up easy ground to belay at back of ledge. Avoid loose flake. (2) 33 m. Climb the good crack past the nose to exit onto a ledge on the right, just below the top. Belay. Good protection though some large pieces are needed for the top pitch.

Variation: Stay in corner on first pitch. H Fogg, G Fogg 13/6/04

===Emperor West Face===

[[File:DATopo2.jpg|370px|DATopo2.jpg]]

'''6 TALKING GOD''' 30m [E4 6a] S Gallwey, J Bergin. July 1991 An exciting and exposed climb up the right hand overhanging and undercut arete of the emperor. Climb the first pitch of Dark Angel, and continue for approximately 4m to belay on small stance underneath the first of two overhangs on the arete to the right. Start - In the corner, level with the lower overhang. Make several hard moves diagonally leftwards across the wall just above the overhangs, to gain a vertical crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break where another hard move is encountered to get established in the crack above. Continue on up the crack until it is possible to reach the edge of the arete just below the overhanging section. Step left for a good rest. Climb the overhanging arete on huge holds to get another rest below the nose. Ascend past the nose on the right hand side, making a hard move to get established on the face. Reach back left to the arete and climb this more easily to the top. Good protection, though camming devices are not recommended too close to the edge of the arete.

'''TALKING GOD DIRECT START''' [E5 6a/b] From the Dark Angel belay, climb the corner to under the overhang. Fix protection and traverse left to rest on ledge. Pause. Traverse back right under overhang to gain base of crack. Continue to top. H. Fogg 22/6/2014 Onsight.

'''7 DARK ANGEL''' 60m [HVS 4c, 5a] O. Jacob, S. Gallwey , June 1980 The route takes the line of the ramp that runs up the western wall of the emperor, forming an obvious corner in its upper sections. Start in a sentry box overlooking the lake, just around the corner from the gully. (1) 25 m. Climb the crack to where the rock steepens. Traverse left for 3 m. and climb the flakes to a sloping ledge below the prominent roof. (2) 35 m. Move right into the main corner and climb it to the top. Crux is surmounting the first overlap. Good protection. This excellent route has unfortunately become mossy in recent years which has spoiled its looks. It is not a problem when dry, rather it lends itself to smoother and more satisfying hand-jams. '''Alternative Start''' - 12 m 12m [E1 5b] S. Gallwey, W. Lee, August 1980 Climb the obvious jamming crack which splits the east wall of the gully to join Dark Angel at a large ledge.

'''STONE THE ROSES''' 60m [E3 5c, 5b] The blank vertical west-facing wall. 1. 30m Mantel onto start ledge then follow the cracks which lead to arête at horizontal break. Move back onto face to follow crack to belay at mid-way ledge. 2. 30m Move right to wide crack. Where crack forks, take left-hand option to top. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan 5/4/08 Cleaned on abseil.

Alternative finish: [5b] Take the right-hand option to top. [in error] G Fogg, H Fogg '08

'''CAPRICORN''' 60m [E5 6a/b] Start as for Stone the Roses. 1. 30m Follow the Right-hand crack until it is possible [but hard] to gain the bottom of the thin crack further right. Thin climbing with just enough protection leads to the horizontal break [big cams]. More moves lead to thin ledge/corner and a committing move to higher slanting ledge to right which leads to belay ledge. 2. 30m As for Stone the Roses. H Fogg, G Fogg 24/8/09 Cleaned on abseil.

===Main Face===

The bottom section of this part of the cliff is covered with a vertical garden of wet-loving vegetation and climbing on this is neither possible nor desirable [a recent scar on this is due to a natural failure of the mechanical strength of the vegetation and not to any misguided cleaning by climbers]. This does not shorten the climbs -- they start level with most of the rest but it does make getting to their foot more difficult -- a little adventure in itself.

'''THE KHALID QUESTION''' 75m [E1 5a 5b 5b] This begins as for The Medial Axis but takes the blunt arete to the left up the centre of this wall. 1. 30m. Start as for The Medial Axis but move left to belay on the second large ledge/terrace. 2. 25m. Continue up the broken crack for 2 or 3m then step left at rowan sapling and climb to left of arete to gain cracks at arete. Continue to ledge. 3. 20m. Begin up left-slanting flakes then go up straight to tooth and corner. G.Fogg[2] H.Fogg[3] 27/7/2014 Onsight.

'''THE MEDIAL AXIS''' 75m [E2 5a 5c 5c] This is in the bay between Emperor Buttress and the Main Face. 1. 30m 5a. On the right hand side of the bay is a slab with a crack up the centre. The crack sports tufts of frochan festooned with moss-like filmy fern. Climb a series of edges to the right of this, finding protection in the crack, without needlessly disturbing the vegetation, to a large woodrush ledge. Continue up the broken groove to a small grassy stance about 5 or 10m below the flat face. 2. 30m 5c. Continue to flat face, stepping over clubmoss. The face is immaculate. The arrow-straight crack accepts small wires and micros. 3. 15m 5c. Step left and finish up crack through small overhang. Tricky. G.Fogg [1], H.Fogg [2&3] 15/6/2014. Top pitches cleaned G.Fogg flashed H.

'''PERNE IN A GYRE''' 80m [E1 5a/b 5a/b 5a 5a] A devious route, not all visible from below, with a couple of moments of notable exposure. Location: At the left-hand side of the embayment defined at its right-hand side by the blank face of the second pitch of The Immortal Path. Approach: The start of the approach ledge is marked by a slender inverted truncated triangular buttress one third the height of the cliff. A few metres past this brings you below two pillars in succession above. Pitches 1 and 2 take the East-facing corners formed by these pillars. Lack of precision in the grading is the result of the difficulty of judging when cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. 1. 25m 5a/b Climb from the ledge to the base of the first corner and continue to the base of the second corner. 2. 10m 5a/b The second corner. Belay on the top of the pillar at the square-cut rock ledge. 3. 20m 5a Follow the diagonal crack rightwards to the arete and around it to gain the start of the vertical crack which widens rapidly as it rises. Belay at the terminal spike of the flake, standing on the large jammed block. 4. 25m 5a Continue to the top of the next huge flake and make an airy step across the crevasse to the left-hand side of the slab and follow a short crack to the large rough corner. The last couple of metres at the top are steep. G Fogg, M Griffin 26/9/2020 Pitches 1 and 2 onsight.

'''THE DELTA VARIANT''' 80m [E2 4c 5c 5b] 1. Same as ''The Immortal Path. ''2. Climb the crack as for ''The Immortal Path,'' but instead of moving to the arete, continue up the crack. A no.4 Camalot protects this section. 3. 40m 5b Step across the corner and climb the small corner and groove behind the small rowan tree. No sling on the tree or its root, please, as it seems only barely attached itself. Keep going up until the way above peters out. Make an exposed and exciting but, happily, not entirely unprotected traverse left, to gain a crack system leading up. Near the top, it opens up and looks easy but the difficulties continue to the very top, when you exit left, from beneath a block over the corner, to squirm out into the sunshine. An intermediate belay may be taken below the top to allow communication with your second. G Fogg, M Griffin 29/6/2021 Top pitch cleaned on abseil 2020

'''THE IMMORTAL PATH''' 82m [E2 4c 5c 5a 4c] Approach: Traverse from the foot of Dark Angel. About 20m ahead, a flat face at half height extends down along its edge to the ledge. 1.22m 4c Follow up beside the face in a cleaned channel to a large sloping woodrush ledge. Hard to start. 2. 20m 5c. From the top of the block, climb the crack which widens as it rises. Where the crack becomes offwidth, place a large piece (no. 11 Hex is good) and, using a narrow ledge, gain the arete. Follow the arete, and the crack which runs from this point, to the belay ledge. Beware of the large spike at the ledge which may be used for balance but should not be pulled on. From the belay, continue along the ledge to where it reveals itself as a flake. Drop down behind the flake to a good belay nest below a steep corner. 3. 25m 5a Climb the corner and then follow the large broken crack to the top of Geronimo buttress. Continue over some stacked boulders to a large recess. Belay. 4. 15m 4c + 8m Exit recess to the left, maintaining respect for the exposure. A large rounded boulder set into the hillside above provides a positive belay for a large sling or rope loop. Pitches 1and 2 onsight. G Fogg, M Griffin 6/7/2020. Pitch 3 cleaned on abseil and climbed. G Fogg, M Griffin, P Flynn 20/7/2020

'''THE TOWER OF DARKNESS''' 80m [E1 4c 5b 5b 5a 4c] Approach: Past the start of The Immortal Path, the ledge narrows. Continue along this to a small notch at the base of the next corner system. Belay. 1. 10m 4c. A couple of metres of rock gives way to some steep woodrush swimming to a comfortable ledge below the steep vee corner. 2. 10m 5b The corner. 3. 20m 5b Continue to ledge. 4. 25m 5a (pitch 3 of The Immortal Path) Up steep corner and then larger broken corner, over stacked boulders to large recess. 5. 15m 4c Track right. Whichever line is taken in this top part, it is still climbing, not as easy as it looks like being, and still potentially serious. G Fogg, M Griffin 14/9/2020 Climbed onsight.

'''GERONIMO''' 70m [E2 5b 5b 5b] This route leads up to and through the clean crack through the bare overhanging bulge at threequarters height to the left of Cuinne Flaithuilach. Traverse the ledge as for Cuinne Flaithuilach. At the end of the sketchy section is a corner. Start here. Cuinne Flaithuilach is 3m further on. 1. Ascend the crack above the corner to a good ledge. 2. Follow the crack with trapped flakes, through a small overhang and slab above to ledges 3. Second should traverse left to belay below the crack through the overhang. Pull through the overhang to glorious climbing above. Higher is a short broken crack to top of pillar and ledges. 4. Diff climbing and scrambling leads to moorland. G Fogg, P Britton 26/3/2011 Onsight. Cleaned on lead. One rest for cleaning on pitch 2. First ascent took over seven hours. Further ascents should take somewhat less.

'''CUINNE FLAITHIULACH''' 70m [HVS 5a, 4b, 5a] J Bergin, M Keenleyside, 20th Aug. 1991 This route, for a long time, the only one on the main face proper, climbs an impressive dark steep corner with excellent jamming and bridging on the left side (east) of a prominent bay in the middle of the North facing cliff. The start is reached by a traverse right from the foot of Dark Angel, which is best done in boots, and the boots then thrown down to the track underneath (or carried to the top !!). The traverse is airy but there is ample protection and the moves are no more that V Diff. The first two pitches can be combined, but you will loose contact with your second, and there is the slight possibility of the rope getting jammed in a corner. 1. 25m. Climb the arete to the left of the corner until you are forced to escape to the slab on the right, which is climbed easily until the corner steepens. Some delicate bridging and/or lay-backing (crux) brings you to the base of an overhang. Move left onto the wall and climb to gain the corner above. Belay. 2. 15m. Climb easily up the corner and gain a grassy recess and belay. (It might be advisable to belay to the left in the recess out of the direct line of the final pitch due to some potentially loose rock. 3. 30m. Climb the steep crack above with the aid of some huge jugs to a small terrace, continue up above this and follow the continuing crack to the top. The last section is impending but well protected.

'''ANCHOR ALLEY, GREYSTONE''' 75m [E2 5b, 5c, 5a] A soaring line on the right-hand side of the bay of which Cuinne Flaithiuilach is on the left. Bring lots of largish hexes or friends for pitch 1. Approach as for the last i.e. tied on and putting in protection as required. Belay 2m left of the corner overhead. 1. 25m Climb short vertical face to slab and traverse this to base of corner and cracks on right. Ascend jamming crack to jammed block and offwidth. Belay bridged across corner on left. 2. 25m Continue up corner past two bulging sections and make tricky exit onto grassy ledge on right. Belay anchors 2m to right at foot of next pitch. 3. 25m Climb straight up just right of jutting nose. Belay on top of this -- one of the best belay perches in the Comeraghs. Scramble the last two or three metres to heathery top. Traverse off left. G Fogg [1 &3] H Fogg [2] 22/7/2011 Prior cleaning on abseil.

'''A MAST FOR THE SOUL''' 75m [E1 5b, 5b, 5a] 
Interesting and varied climbing. It starts from the same point as Journey to the Great Flake and shares the same top pitch as Anchor Alley, Greystone 
1. 35m Start as for Journey to the Great Flake but trend left to reach the slab. This is traversed delicately to gain the crack through the overhang. Climb the crack to reach the belay at the ledge on top of a flake. 
2. 15m Jam the bulging crack above the belay and negotiate the less-straightforward patch above to belay on a good grassy ledge. 
3. 25m As for Anchor Alley.

The second and third pitches may be climbed as one. Indeed, you might not even notice the ledge - as happened to the first ascentionist on a recent, presumed, second ascent. 
G. Fogg [1], H. Fogg [2], R. Pearson [3] 22/5/2017 Cracks cleaned on abseil.

'''JOURNEY TO THE GREAT FLAKE ''' 60m  [E1 5b, 5b]

An entertaining route demanding a wide range of climbing skills. It takes a plumb-line path from the ledge to the left-hand edge of the Great Flake and through an overhang on the skyline. Lower down it passes through a section of shallow chimney formed by a small corner on the right and thin jutting blocks on the left.

Approach:  Traverse onto ledge from right as for ''Crooked Smile''. Continue, crawling under a low roof and on 4m until directly below the afore-mentioned chimney.

'''1'''.  30m  Delicate climbing leads to the smooth chimney. Once established in it, progress is made by back-and-foot bridging. Above, move left onto the face to tackle the bulge and, with right hand on the arete, continue to belay at a small stance just left of and level with the Great Flake ledge.

'''2'''.  30m  Climb up, trending right, to the crack through the overhang at the edge of the Flake. This is overcome by gymnastic bridging and jamming. Easier climbing to the belay.

Descent: The ''Atom Ant'' abseil point is a couple of metres to the right around the corner.

G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell  15/5/2016  Onsight.

===Black Chocolate gully area===

'''This area contains the biggest concentration of good quality hard climbs in the coum. The initial west facing wall adjacent to crooked smile is probably the only area in the Comeraghs approaching route saturation. This clean cut wall, being just off vertical, allows for hard climbing on some very small holds. Having the afternoon sun on your back gives a welcome boost to climbing on this high mountain crag. There are two old abseil bolts at the top of Atom Ant. Test these well with good belay back up before use.'''

[[File:Cs 9 to 13.png|400px|Cs 9 to 13.png]]

'''9 CROOKED SMILE''' 60m [HVS 4b, 5a] S. Gallwey (2), E. Hernstadt (1) June 1981 This climb takes the crooked chimney/corner system which splits the arete formed between the main face of the cliff and the left wall of the gully. Start just left of the base of the arete on a large ledge. Traverse in from right. (1) 20 m. Climb the obvious flakes on the arete and then up the right-hand wall. Traverse right to a crack splitting a large block. From top of block, step across to large ledge and belay in base of a short corner. (2) 40 m. Climb corner and traverse left to base of chimney. Climb chimney to hanging slab leading up left. Climb slab until forced out onto the arete by the overhang. Pass the overhang and then climb up diagonally rightwards to the top of the crag.

===Atom Ant Wall===

'''10 TYGER TYGER''' 35m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. April 1988 This route climbs the steep, straight crack on the exposed face just right of Crooked Smile. Start from the belay below the 2nd pitch of Crooked Smile. Climb up the left-hand side of a large flake leaning against the face. From the top of the flake, climb the wall and crack to its end.

'''11 GRENDEL''' 40m [E1 5b] E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey August 1984 This route takes the steep corner just right of Tyger Tyger. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) As for Crooked Smile. (2) Climb the short corner and step right to a large flake. From the top of the flake, step around to the right into the base of the main corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, which is turned to the right (crux). Climb the short corner above to the top.

'''12 ATOM ANT''' 40m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. August 1984 This route takes a diagonal line up the wall to the right of Grendel. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) - As for Crooked Smile. (2) - Follow Grendel to the base of the large corner. Climb the diagonal crack line trending rightwards to a small ledge. Traverse left to join Grendel for the short upper corner. Strenuous. '''Direct finish''' S Gallwey, J Bergin. June 1991 Climb straight up the face with good holds and protection

'''SLIPPERY PEOPLE''' 30m [E3 6a] S Gallwey, June 1992 This route climbs the wall about 3m left of Controlled Burning, joining a good crack-line at mid point. Start - Scramble up the leftwards trending diagonal grassy ramp which starts at the base of the chimney. Scramble up another right ward trending grassy ramp to belay at the base of the wall. Climb up the wall on very small holds, using small wires for protection. Above a small overlap, a good crack presents itself and easier climbing leads to a series of round holes in the face. A hard move near the top puts you in position to finish by grabbing the edge of Controlled Burning to the right. From the ledge, the direct finish to Atom Ant, probably provides the best way up.

'''13 CONTROLLED BURNING''' 30m [E2 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. May 1991 This climb takes the obvious vertical crack up the right hand side of the face 2m to the right of Atom Ant. Climb the wall (crux) with holds and protection improving with height. Gain a good crack and climb this to the top of the tower. From the ledge, climb directly up the face to the right of the direct finish of Atom Ant. Good protection.

===Grey Hotel Buttress===

'''DAMOCLES''' 70m [E4 6a 4c] This starts in the corner at the left-hand side of Grey Hotel Buttress, just right of a deep wet cave. A good view of the route is to be had whilst abseiling Atom Ant wall. 1. 48m Climb the initial awkward corner [small friends] and onto slab at right. Find some protection for the blank vertical/bulging section which leads to better holds and then to ledge. Go left around the arête into the upper corner which has good protection [small wires]. Exiting corner onto arête at ‘damocles’ block is also hard. Continue to belay at large triangular block. 2. 20m Easy climbing to top. Belay at top of Grey Hotel. H Fogg, G Fogg 17/8/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF.

[[File:Birdman wall.png|400px|Birdman wall.png]]

'''15 GREY HOTEL''' 85m [E3 6a,5a,5b] Pitches 1 & 2 -S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. (alternate leads) May 1987 Pitch 3 - S Gallwey, J Bergin. Spring 1990 This climb takes the grey face/tower situated in the deep gully to the right of Crooked Smile. The initial wall faces out towards the lake and is about 10 m. across. Recommend combining pitches 1&2. Start - At centre of face. (1) 25 m. Climb up diagonally rightwards to top of choss. Gain a horizontal break above with a vertical crack at its left-hand side. Climb up strenuously just right of the crack, making hard moves to gain a small resting ledge near the right-hand arete. Climb the face to the left to gain the left-hand crack again and follow this up until level with a large sloping ledge on the right. Traverse right to gain this and belay. (2) 20 m. Climb the overhanging corner above, past a ledge on the left-hand wall, to exit onto a large grassy ledge. (From here it is possible to scramble up to the right onto the Birdman ledge). (3) 40m. Climb the pleasant corner at the back of the ledge into overhanging territory until it is possible to gain a second non-overhanging corner to the right. Follow up the face of the ramp with the off-width crack on the left (Small wires in the left-hand wall). The crux is at 3/4 height. Respect the precarious - looking block at the top.

===Black Chocolate Gully - East side===

'''16 BIRDMAN''' 70m [E2 4a 5b 5b] O. Jacob (1,3), S. Gallwey (2). November 1981 The Birdman headwall is very steep and offers superb climbing. It may be reached by following the first two pitches of Birdman, or better by way of the first two pitches of Grey Hotel. It is also worth abseiling into it for its own sake. It is located high up on the left hand side of the upper section of Black Chocolate gully. This climb is located in the gully to the right of Grey Hotel, finishing up the superb crack which splits the top headwall near its left-hand side. The 1st pitch is poor. Start - At a grassy section of the left wall of the gully just up from a large wedged block. (1) 18 m. Climb up leftward on mixed ground to the ridge. Continue up rightwards on ridge to gain a large grassy terrace and belay at the base of a short lay-back corner. (2) 30 m. Layback strenuously for 8 m. then scramble up right to a good ledge beneath the headwall. (3) 21 m. Climb obvious steep crack at left-hand end of headwall. At overhangs, use both cracks up to a little ledge. Climb diagonally right to the top.

'''17 PLANET CLARE''' 20m [E3 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. Sept. 1990 Climbs the wall to the right of Birdman through 4 small overhangs. Start - In the centre of the Birdman ledge. Best to belay somewhat to the right as there is a potentially loose block in the initial corner. Climb the rightward facing corner flake in the centre of the wall past the 'loose' block to the first overhang. Climb strenuously up a crack line to the right on finger jams and lay-aways to gain a good hand hold and thereafter the large ledge. Exit to the left.

'''18 RAGING COW''' 17m [HVS 5a] S. Gallwey, O. Jacob November 1981 This route takes the obvious crack to the right of the top pitch of Birdman. Start - At the right-hand end of the Birdman ledge. Climb the steep crack to the top.

'''BLACK CHOCOLATE GULLY''' ##### 90m S D Ellickson, T Sherman, 24. 3. 1963 The location of this climb is uncertain, despite best efforts of the editors. The only known attempt to repeat it was thought to be VS. This description is taken from an old IMC newsletter. 1. 21m. climb the buttress and step right into the gully. continue to stance and belay at large chock-stone. 2. 13m. Follow the gully to the second chock-stone. 3. 13m. Chimney past second chock-stone to belay beneath overhanging chock. 4. 19m. Step across gully to ledge in corner and climb the parallel cracks then back right to the gully and continue 6m to the bottom of a lichenous corner. Belay. 5. 12m. Climb the corner - steep and vegetated at the top. 6. 19m. The gully opens out into mixed rock and heather which is climbed directly or by a long traverse over the right wall.

'''CENTRAL PILLAR OF CHOCOLATE''' 35m [HVS 4c, 5a, 5b] 
At the back of the gully, the Central Pillar rises as a tower of stacked detached blocks. This route tackles the tower whereas 'Black Chocolate Gully' does seem actually to follow the gully up on the right. 
1. 15m 4c Climb the vegetated buttress, using the gully where prudent, to reach the wide crack behind the square-section block on the right-hand side of the Pillar and up this to belay on top of the block. 
2. 15m 5a Chimney the wide crack behind the next block to its top and continue up the ever-widening crack on the right with increasing difficulty. The only protection for this section is a micro wire on the left [unless you are carrying a very large cam]. 
3. 5m [+15 heather] 5b The dramatic jutting finger on left beckons, providing an exposed and exciting move or two to climb. Continue up the heather slope to find a belay at the rock band. 
If the finger does not appeal, a less intimidating option is offered by the open-book corner on the right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin, 19/6/2017 Onsight.

===Black Chocolate Gully - West side===

'''COLOURS ON THE WATER''' 45m [E3 5c] This is the striking crack threequarters of the way up the gully on the right hand side, l. 10m Climb crack to ]edge. 2. 35m Continue to top [Climb as one pitch] Pitch 1 G Fogg, S Gallwey 9/6/06 onsight [as new start to Satanic Majesty] Full route G Fogg, S Gallwey 17/6 06 onsight. Cleaned and abseil point put in 21/8/07

'''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a] From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past `Colours' to crack system near arete. Belay. [preliminary pitch ] Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete. S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001, Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK]

'''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E3 5c 5b] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989 An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully. Very hard to protect [doubtful peg near start gives little confidence], moves 5c at least. Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully. 1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay. 2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.
===The West Face===

'''This consists of a pleasant series of buttresses and ribs at the West end of the North Facing Cliff. They possess an airy and open feeling which is a welcome change from the gully area to the left. The climbs are best located with reference to the West end buttress, the west most buttress with a gully to the right. The buttress appears to lean against the rest of the cliff. The arete of this buttress is taken by 'A Walk On The West End' while the face to the left (north) is taken by 'Perpetual Motion'. The next arete to the east divides in two at midpoint to form a double feature with a groove between and a capping overhang at the top. 'Ansty's Desire' and 'The Tailor' take the left and right aretes respectively.'''

Photo with most routes here: [[Media:CS_TheWestEndF9.jpg]]

'''FILAMINGO''' 45m [HVS 5a] Clean [now] corner immediately right of gully. Abseil descent as for 'Prehistoric World', P Britton, C Ennis, Hh Fogg; N Walls 13/6/04

'''RED WALL AND ROOF [ED'S ROOF]''' 25m [E2 5c] Back on the north-facing rock beyond Filamingo, past an undercut at ground level. Climb the curving corner crack and slab to obvious crack through roof. Continue to belay at boulder above. Descent is either by abseil from old nut plus new tat or by slithering down the near-vertical woodrush to fetch up at the foot of Filamingo. G Fogg, H Fogg 22/8/08 Onsight.

'''STEPHEN'S CRACK''' 15m [HVS 5a/b] Climb right-hand edge of slab at Ed’s Roof. Move right, around arête to broken crack. Generous jugs at the breaks make up for slight overhang. G Fogg, H Fogg, P Brennan. 13/6/09 Onsight.

'''CHUCKLER''' 20m [E4 6a] Traverse left from secret sentry-box to base of west-facing wall. Climb thin crack through small overhang to ledge. Abseil descent [tat]. H Fogg, G Fogg 22/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''THE DIAMOND''' 18m [E3 6a] The cleaned crack up the centre of the flat face. Abseil off ledge from tat at right. H Fogg, G Fogg 8/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER''' 16m [E2 5c] The left-slanting crack that joins to top of the Diamond. H Fogg, G Fogg 21/6/09 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER ARETE''' 60m HS 4c, 4c, 4c 
This long arete is a scruffy companion to Anstey's Desire to the right and a counterpoint to the the short hard technical Griddler and Diamond to the left. 
1. 15m. Step across the ledge and climb the distinctive three-piece pillar to the ledge [the top for The Diamond and Griddler]. Continue around to the right and up a short slab to the large flat ledge. 
2. 30m. From the left hand side of the ledge, climb the cracks and step airily back right to regain the arete. There follows the long broken scruffy section. Keep to the right hand side of the arete on the slabs. 
3. 15m. The clean steep more challenging-looking top section of the arete. 
G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell 10/05/2017 Onsight.
===The West End===

'''RAMPANT RABBIT''' [HVS] The broken crack a couple of metres left of 'Red-line Vibrations'. M Walsh, H Hennessy '07

'''RED-LINE VIBRATIONS''' 40m [E3 5b 5c] “Start 5m left of Ansty’s Desire. 1. 20m Steep gnarly fist-crack to technical ramp, then easy traverse to base of arête. 2. 20m Bold. Climb wall left of arête to small ledge. Move up and right around arête to large ledge [Anstey’s belay].” 3. Pitch 3 is pitch 2 of The Tailor. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan June 2007

'''ANSTY'S DESIRE''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5a] J Bergin, S Gallwey, 3rd June 1991 Start just down and left of the corner formed where the west end buttress joins the main cliff, at a broken corner with a steep slab to its right. 1. 30m. Layaway up the broken corner until it is possible to step left on to a slab, continue and climb an off-width crack on the right to a grassy ledge, then climb the off-width spectacularly to a large pulpit and belay. 2. 45m. Traverse left onto the arete on large holds and climb to the top. Crux at mid height. (50m ropes necessary to reach belay).

'''THE TAILOR''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5b] J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 1. 30m. As for Ansty's Desire. 2. 45m. Gain the right hand arete, which is climbed to the top in a spectacular position. See the note re. belaying for Ansty's Desire.

'''PERPETUAL MOTION''' 65m [E1 4b, 5b, 4c] J Bergin. S Gallwey. 23rd May 1991 Start approx 10 m to the left of the arete A Walk On The West End in an obvious west facing corner. 1. 20m. Climb the corner on good holds. Break onto the face at the overhang and continue on to belay on a small ledge on the face. 2. 20m. Climb the crack with increasing difficulties. Surmount the overhang on small holds and climb to the base of the next, larger overhang. Traverse delicately to the left and then continue up to belay on the arete. 3. 25m. Climb the arete to the top. This pitch is shared with A Walk On The West End, and may be made slightly harder by keeping to the left of the arete.

'''A WALK ON THE WEST END''' 55m [HS 4a,4c] J. Bergin, S Gallwey. 16th May 1991 This route climbs the obvious arete at the end of the cliff. It is probably the best lower grade route in the Comeraghs, with a real feeling of traveling and exposure. The one 4c move is very well protected and could be aided if necessary. Start - on a slab on the west face of the arete. 1. 30m. Quickly gain the arete proper, and climb it to a large and convenient belay ledge. 2. 25m. Continue on up the sharp arete to the top. The crux is shortly above the belay.

'''WEST END SLAB''' 60m VS 4c, 4c 
Very nice slab climbing that starts at the same point as A Walk on the West End but takes the centre of the slab rather than the arete. 
1. 30m From the lowest point, track rightwards towards the centre of the slab and follow the overlap that curves on up. After 30m, move left to belay on the prominent clean nose.. 
2. 30m Traverse the vegetated ledge rightwards to reach clean rock. From here, aim to pass to the right of the rowans overhead. This means making repeated moves to the right. If in doubt step right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin. 8/7/2017 Onsight.

Coum Tay

2021-07-19T09:43:36Z

Daveh: Formatting Cleanup

The next coum south west from Mahon Falls. It is a large coum facing south-east. Easily reached from the road via a forestry path. It will take about an hour to get there.

[[File:coumTayCliffs.jpeg|500px]]

''Main Cliff and Route One Buttress.''

===ROUTE ONE BUTTRESS===

The right hand [Easternmost] section as far as the Dark Cleft.

'''1. THE DARK CLEFT''' 45m HS/VS 
This is the deep dark split that divides Route One Buttress from the Main Face. Approach: From the terrace across base of Route One or directly up talus. If the latter, then an initial 3m wet step is by-passed by grass-scrambling on the left. Climb the narrow ramp on the left until ready to enter the narrowing chimney. Pass behind the wedged boulder, stay in chimney and continue to belay at terrace. From here, a scramble up the open gully will gain the top or, for a more adventurous alternative, take the stunningly exposed ''Stegosaurus'' arete. 
G Fogg H Fogg 7/6/2013 Onsight.

'''2. STEGOSAURUS''' 45m E1 5b 
The bare jagged jutting arete that defines the eastern edge of the open gully above ''The Dark Cleft''. Tremendous exposure, occasional suspect rock and a technical finish on gritty sandstone. Brilliant.

And yes! it is left at the top, up the bare blunt undercut arete made of gritstonesque rock flecked with white quartz pebbles. 
H Fogg G Fogg 7/6/2013 Onsight.

'''3. THE COLOUR OF DEER GRASS''' 85m HVS 
This has, at 55m, the longest single pitch in the Comeraghs. 
1. 30m 4b Climb pitch 1 of Crystal-Clear. 
2. 55m 5a Climb the sunlit corner which gives continuously interesting and varied climbing that goes on and on all the way to the top. Boulder belay. 
[H Fogg 1] G Fogg 2 14/9/2013 Onsight.

'''4. CRYSTAL-CLEAR''' 60m E4 4b 5c/6a 
Looking up at the Dark Cleft, the arete of Stegosaurus rises up behind and above, defining the left hand edge of a huge diedre. Crystal-clear climbs the right hand face of this feature. 
The climbing is reminiscent of face-climbs on Atom Ant wall or Birdman wall in Coumshingaun but topped off with a challenging overhang and headwall. 
1 30m 4b To reach the start of the route proper, start from the terrace, well to the right and climb the rocky A-shaped buttress, fixing good protection before making the comfortable traverse left on vegetation. Go around the arete and up the corner to a good stance at the base of the wall. 
2 30m 5c/6a Start 2m left of the arete at the mossy crack. Climb the face, go through the centre of the overhang and finish up the headwall. 
Easier rock does continue above but this may be avoided by traversing off to the right. 
[G Fogg 1] H Fogg 2 31/8/2013 Onsight.

'''5. ROUTE ONE''' 55m E2 5a 5c 
Looking into the coum,the right-hand [eastern] buttress stands highest. A terrace slants down at 20 degrees to the horizontal below the vertical cliffs. The longest and most continuous section of clean rock rises from the lower [western] end of the terrace. The route follows a right-leaning fault-line that runs straight from bottom to top of this section. Access to the terrace is from the right (East) or else by heading up to the start of The Dark Cleft and gaining the ledge from there. 
1. 5a 30m. Follow the vegetated line to the quartz-backed terrace above. Adequate protection lower down, improves with height. 
2. 5c 25m. The large right-facing corner. The anticipated crack for gear at the back of the corner is absent. The blank left wall impends and holds are poor on the back wall which bulges. Short but testing. Above is an easy open-book corner. It may be advisable to belay at the top of the first corner if you think your second might have some difficulty --- as perhaps, for example, if they are wearing a wellington boot! Boulder belay at top. Return by traversing right (East). 
G Fogg, H Fogg [one rock shoe, one wellie] Onsight. 20/4/2013

'''6. NUNC DIMITTIS''' 60m E2 5a 5b/c 
5m right of and parallel to ''Route One.'' Start 2 or 3m left of ''Green Gully''. 1. 30m 5a. A scruffy start past bonsai furze leads to a clean sound knobbly face with a thin grassy crack providing some protection. Thence by easy but awkward steps to quartzy ledge. 2. 30m 5b/c. Interesting and technical climbing up the vee-grooves. Boulder belay. 
G Fogg[1], H Fogg[2] 9/6/2013 Onsight.

[[File:CoumTay1.jpeg|400px]]

''Route One Buttress right of The Dark Cleft.''

===MAIN CLIFF===
From the Main Central Gully on the left [west] to the Dark Cleft on the right.

'''7. URBS FORTITUDINIS''' 95m E2 5b 5a 
At the left hand side of the Main Cliff, is a relatively clean flat face. The first pitch goes up the middle of this. 
1. 50m 5b Follow the deceptively innocuous-looking vegetated line up to a thin grassy ledge at two thirds height. Traverse this left around the arete and up the groove to the terrace. 
2. 45m 5a Cross the terrace up and right to the obvious chimney/groove with the jenga-like broken blocks at the back. Do not attempt these. Instead, climb the solid right-hand arete, with good protection to the top. Boulder belay. Magnificent belay seat. 
H Fogg [1], G Fogg [2] 5/5/2013 Onsight.

'''''A note on the grading''' All of the routes are quite adventurous. None will have seen any traffic. This is not a bad thing because it means that the routes are in the same condition as at the time of their first ascent. Further cleaning, except for the occasional nut placement, is neither desirable nor necessary.''

'''8. The MIDDLE WAY''' 45m HVS 5a 
Halfway between Urbs Fortitudinis and Solidago. 
Easy climbing up to the overhang that spans the broad shallow groove. At this point, take the right hand side. The climbing is immediatly both much harder and less secure. 
The obvious continuation would be the top pitch of either Solidago or Urbs F. 
H Fogg, G Fogg 28/9/2013 Onsight.

'''9. SOLIDAGO''' 80m E2 5b 5a 
To the right of the flat section carrying Urbs Fortidudinis, the face is distinguished by three overhangs: the largest and lowest at about 3m. The route starts at the centre of this overhang and goes straight up. 
As seems to be the norm for Coum Tay, the first pitch is a lot steeper, harder and longer than it appears from below. 
1 30m 5b Summon the resolve to surmount the overhang, being prepared for limited welcome above although rock is reassuringly sound. Comfort and enjoyment increase with height. Wonderful Comeragh climbing. 
2 50m 5a Climb the centre of the square jutting buttress the left edge of which is defined by Urbs Fortitudinis. Easy ground gives way to thick pointy sandstone flakes and then to steeper but sounder knobbly rock. Follow the corner formed by the detached pillar/flake and short corner above. 
G Fogg [1], H Fogg [2] 21/8/2013 Onsight.

'''10. THE EYE OF THE NEEDLE''' 40m E1 5b 
This is on the upper tier, 50m to the right of Solidago. 
50m right of Solidago, before the cliff face recedes back, there are two parallel lines. This is the left hand one: a sharp vee groove guarded by a diamond-shaped overhanging block. 
Start at a narrow rock ledge. Ascend steep vegetation to start of crack. The first awkward bulge is tackled straight-on. At the overhang [crux],take the direct approach [i.e. on right side] to gain the secure comfort of the groove above. 
On the first ascent,loose blocks on the obvious holds above the overhang, as well as a 'death' block sitting on top of the diamond, added considerably to the difficulty and gave not a little anxiety. These are now gone, reducing the grade to probable 5b. 
At the top, a small boulder, like an almost-buried tombstone gives a convenient [indeed the only] belay. This is perfectly good so long as the direction of pull is kept low. 
G Fogg, H Fogg 28/9/2013 Onsight.

'''11. LENTICULAR CLOUDS''' 90m HVS 4c 4c 
Location: Below the Main Cliff, mid-way between the scree cone of Main Central Gully and that of The Dark Cleft, is the scree cone of Chock Stone Gully. Start up this. Lenticular Clouds is the cleft that goes a good way up through the solid rock band to the left before closing. From a distance,the cleft could be mistaken for a jamming crack; from closer, it can be seen to be off-width. In wet weather only, the line boasts a waterfall but is normally quite dry. 
1. 45m 4c. Climb to the left of the cleft with protection to the right. Continue after split closes to a bay and through the overhang to a second bay. Belay here. 
Walk left around arete to below second pitch which is the split above, 4m from arete, 5m right of The Eye of the Needle. 
2. 45m 4c. Climb up past large flakes and some grass to the pebbly crack. Three small spike boulders provide belay. 
G Fogg[1], H Fogg[2] 15/3/2014 Onsight.

Chock Stone Gully provides a very convenient descent back to the starting point but route-finding is tricky and comfortableness with the situation is required.
===NED’S CLIFF===

A scruffier cliff bounded by the Main Central Gully on the right and the clean line of ‘NED’S LEGACY’ on the left. It is split by another dark gully in the centre.

'''12. NED’S LEGACY''' 130m HS 
Follow a line of scree to a clean water washed corner with crack. 
1. 48m 4b. Start up a clean rightward facing corner which eases after the first bulge. Continue left and up to a belay. 
2. 50m+ 4a. Continue easily up the rock road until it steepens, then up a short corner, step left and finish on the Comeragh plateau. 
C Ennis[1], P Britton[2] 21/7/2013 Onsight.

[[File:NedsLegacy2.jpg|600px]]

http://wiki.climbing.ie/images/e/e9/NedsLegacy2.jpg

 

===GULLIES===

'''WET GULLY''' 100m Grade 3 scramble (1). 
This is the first distinct gully in the coum starting from the right side. It follows a small stream all the way up.

'''GREEN GULLY''' 60m V Diff 
This is the gully that splits Route One Buttress. Dangerous at top. For the enthusiast/collector only. Not recommended. G & H Fogg 9/6/2013

'''CHOCK STONE GULLY '''
140m XS (1), S.Bender & T. McSweeney Oct 29 2012 
This starts after the rock face to the left of "Wet Gully" going diagonally to the right (towards the face). There is a prominant rock pinnacle jutting out just up from the start of the gully. I graded it this way because of the added wet, loose and slippery rock, its scary climbing! 
The 2 first pitches cover some easy rocky steps. As it is squite steep and slippy i would recommend belaying your partner.there is good protection to be found for hexes, cams and large nuts. you will need long slings to reduce rope drag. 
Pitch 3: Here it starts to get interesting. There are 3 options to choose from. the left one is really steep and slimey (best left for winter), the right one is just a steep grassy slope, but the middle one is great fun. its a steep crag 10m high. Climb this untill small ledge underneath some overhanging rocks, watch out for loose stuff here.traverse to left along small wet ledge to large stance, Belay here. 
Pitch 4: Climb rocky step and continue to large boulder, belay here. 
Pitch 5: Now you are looking at the reason for the name of this gully. Climb step and go in behind the chock stone, continue to large boulders on left and belay here. 
After this just scramble to the top with easy exit.

'''MAIN CENTRAL GULLY''' V Diff
'''ARC GULLY III 4 [Winter]''' As per the name. A moist clamber to enter and a rocky step to get past a boulder further up. First ascent: Ned Curran's granny, Neolithic Period. First Winter ascent: C Ennis, R Noone 5/12/2010 (the sharp right trending fork in the gully at mid height was taken to give the final pitches)

'''GARDENERS' GRAPPLE''' V Diff 
J. Tremayne, P. Kelly, October, 2017 
A route composed almost entirely of grass. Do it in the wet for the full experience. 
Start up Main Central Gully. At the steep rocky step (second major obstacle) traverse out left on a grass terrace for 15m and belay. 
1. 45m Climb steep grass up the face trending slightly to the right to a big boulder belay(a belay is also available half way up pitch.)
2. 35m Climb the grass/rock ridge to the base of a steep rock wall. 
Skirt around the wall easily on its left side and continue to the top.

Eagles Rock

2021-07-19T09:36:01Z

Daveh: Small bit of formatting

==Introduction==
The east face of Sliabh Cairn is an enormous vegetated cliff which runs north, curves east and then back north again at a lower level. The crag is just before this last bend and is the clean-looking section visible from the south.

From Kinvara, take the first left and drive to Cappaghmore crossroads. Go straight on for about 2.5km and take the right fork which leads for 1.5km to a parking place on the right

Parking at 53.076307,-8.998787 (https://www.google.ie/maps/@53.076307,-8.998787,3a,90y,351.9h,83.74t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1s5QyKvsgTIUV4L2x6re6wxg!2e0).

Crag location: https://goo.gl/maps/3u9yoR1N6xUFUehv5

<display_map zoom="14">
53.076307,-8.998787~Eagle Rock Parking
53.076307,-8.998787~Eagle Rock Parking
</display_map>

Cross by the stile and walk along the stone wall for 0.5km. At this point the crag can be seen up ahead amongst hazel and ash trees (15mins). Here the path crosses the wall and heads in the direction of the Sliabh Carran – this leads to the early monastic settlement of Saint Coleman MacDuach which is well worth visiting. Instead of following the path, keep along side the stone wall for another 0.5km. Cross through the hazel copse, and gently ascend through mossy limestone escarpments to the base of the crag.

'''SCALYFACE''' 12m MS 
''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, J. Hobbs, 15/4/78.'' 
Start about 100m left of and above The Cardinal at the top of the wide scree slope. The route takes the obvious steep square left-facing corner.

'''PRIMA VERA''' 12m HS 4b 
''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, J. Hobbs, 15/4/78.'' 
On the face outside and to the right of Scalyface, 2m right of the corner immediately under the wide vertical crack at 6m. Gain the wide crack by the steep wall and surmount a wobbly block by a strenuous pull up (crux).

'''SMEAGOL''' 28m VD 
''L. Byrne, C. Kavanagh, 12/5/78.'' 
About 50m left of and above The Cardinal on the left end of the main buttress and 5m left of a dark overhanging corner there is a wall which is split by a wide crack which narrows at half height. Start just left of the crack. (1) 20m Climb mainly on flakes, trending leftwards until forced to step into the small bay at the left-hand edge. Again onto the wall and climb directly to the top. (2) 8m Finish up the short wall immediately above the belay.

'''HARTBURN''' 20m S 
''L. Byrne, D. Walsh, 27/8/78.'' 
Start just right of Smeagol at the base of the wide crack. (1) Move up on the right-hand side of the crack. Surmount the steep wall where the crack narrows before entering the widening crack (groove) above and following this directly to the top. Belay well back as for Smeagol. (2) Finish up pitch 2 of Smeagol.

'''GOLLUM''' 20m MS
 ''L. Byrne, C. Kavanagh, 12/5/78''
 Start just right of Hartburn. (1) Climb the shallow groove to a point immediately below a prominent rightward-trending crack on the final wall. Step up and out left to gain the steep wall which is then followed to finish at the top. (2) Finish up pitch 2 of Smeagol.

'''JOHN PAUL 1''' * 20m VS 4c 
''D. Walsh, L. Byrne, 27/8/78.'' 
Start about 1m left of The Cardinal at the foot of a crack. Climb the crack for 6m to a niche. Climb the slanting wall on the left above by laybacking until it is possible to escape left (crux) below the overhang onto a wall. Gain the corner above and follow it to the top.

'''GARLIC''' ** 21m HVS 5a 
''J. Flanagan, D. Walsh, 2/6/86.'' 
Start as for the Cardinal and take the steep right-trending crack in the main wall right of John Paul 1. Bridge out to a pinnacle when surmounting the overhang on top. Solid and well protected.

'''THE CARDINAL''' ** 21m HS 4a 
''D. Walsh, M. Daly, P. Gargan, 30/6/74.'' 
Start at the bottom left of the obvious detached pinnacle which is the main feature of the crag. Climb the short slab to the obvious chimney and climb the chimney until it is possible to step around the corner onto the ledge on the right. From the end of the ledge climb up to the base of the vertical flake. Hand traverse the flake (strenuous) until it is possible to mantelshelf.Descend by either climbing down the slab, then into the chimney, then vegetation on the right-hand side of the pinnacle (more or less the line of Turd) or make a long step onto the short slab on the main face.

Direct Finish ''D. Walsh, 2/6/86.''
 Don't hand traverse, airily pull straight up.

'''KINVARA DIRECT''' E6 6c. ''Kevin Power. June 8th 08. ''Climb the overhanging crack that splits the front of the pillar. It was worked on top-rope prior to ascent, gear is hard to place, hence the grade.

[[Image:Kinvarra Direct.JPG|500px|]]

'''ROWSBY WOOF''' * 24m VS 
''D. Walsh, F. Clarke, 12/5/78.'' 
Start on the right side of the pinnacle below and right of The Cardinal. The crux is the initial overhang. Climb the crack above. Finish up the slab to the top of the pinnacle or the more attractive direct finish.

Direct Finish
G. Smyth, 1982.
Up the right-facing corner on the face behind. The crux is the escape move, strenuous.

'''TURD''' 23m VD 
''D. Walsh, M. Daly, P. Gargan, 30/6/74.'' 
No longer relevant except as a descent or to give easy access to the summit of the pinnacle. Scramble up vegetation, bearing left to the slab on the top of the pinnacle, make a long step left into a letterbox foothold and climb the clean slab to the top.

'''FAERY WOG DOG''' * 13m S 
''D. Walsh, F. Clarke, 12/5/78.'' 
Right of the detached pinnacle the left-facing corner on the main face left of Scoop. To start scramble up 16m of gunge to the right of the pinnacle. Start climbing beside a tree and go up the leftward-slanting groove to a ledge at 6m. Bridge up the steep corner above (crux).

'''SCOOP''' * 26m S 
''S. Barrett, D. Walsh, (alternate leads), May 1983.'' 
The banana-shaped groove high above Base Camp (see diagram). Start in a cave below a short wall. (1) Climb the short steep wall above, exiting to the left, and belay at the foot of the overhanging crack beside the flake. (2) Using the flake gain the horizontal crack in the steep wall which enables you to move left into the start of the scoop. Climb this clean groove more easily to the top. 
Direct Start
J. Flanagan, 2/6/86.
Enter the second pitch direct. Grade unchanged.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' * 25m S 
''G. Moss, E. Hackett, 2/6/86.'' 
Start just right of the first pitch of Scoop. (1) Climb the left-trending crack in the rounded prow just left of the second pitch of Eyrie. Belay as for Eyrie. (2) Climb the cracked wall right of the second pitch of Scoop, left of the third pitch of Eyrie.

'''BLACK DIAMOND NAIL CLIPPERS''' 40m HS 4b ''D. Fahey, L. Kinnucane, 05/07/21'' (1) Climb the chimney hidden behind the tree, 5m left of the start of EYRIE. Climb behind the large chock stone and up to the same belay stance as the second pitch of EYRIE. (2) Walk back approx 5m and climb the prow at the corner just before Scoop. Nice holds on the arete to the left and gear in a crack to the right. Gain the easy slab and make an anchor in the wide hand crack above. (3) Climb the face between vertical cracks with two horizontal breaks. Possibly the same as the second pitch of piece of cake?

'''EYRIE''' * 40m HS 4b 
''A. Douglas, D. Walsh, 26/11/72.'' 
Start at the obvious off-width crack between a large block and the main face well below and right of the pinnacle at the lowest point of the crag. (1) Climb the crack (5m) to a stance below the overhang. Traverse 2m left and climb the chimney to the top of the second block. (2) Step steeply onto the slab on small holds (crux - well protected) and turn the overhang then up to the belay. (3) Easy left-trending crack to finish.

'''THE SLASHER''' 7m VS 4b 
''S. Peel, G. Moss, 2/6/86.'' 
A worthwhile harder way to finish Eyrie. Start 6m right of the third pitch of Eyrie on the same ledge and jam up the crack.

'''FIRST CONTACT''' 7m HVS 5b 
''L. Kinnucane, D. Fahey 05/07/21'' 
Approx 100m right of Eyrie, a face split in two by a horizontal crack at 4m. Climb two parallel vertical finger cracks to the horizontal break, escape right to the corner next to the block and small dead tree. place protection and use the wider crack on the upper section to finish

'''The next three climbs are in a triangular bay 100m right of Base Camp.'''

'''TALON''' 15m MS 
''D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 1982.'' 
Start at the bottom of the vegetated groove on the left of the bay. Climb up to the vertical crack immediately to its left. Climb the crack and finish to the left of a small tree.

'''BEAK''' 15m D 
''D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 1982.'' 
Start as for Talon. The climb takes the corner crack with two trees growing in it to the left of Talon. This is gained by a diagonal crack.

'''WING''' 15m D 
''D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 1982.'' 
Start 1m to the right of the vegetated groove. Climb straight up the Y-shaped crack and follow its left branch to a ledge. Continue straight up, finishing to the right of a small tree.

Scalp na gCapail

2021-07-15T12:03:05Z

Daveh: Formatting

'''This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.'''

'''The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently (2018 - 2021) on the left side opening up 10 new routes worth doing. Grades range from S to E2. Care should be taken on newer routes as there is still a bit of loose rock about!'''

'''Numbers are far left to right from the bottom of the crag'''
[[File:Scalp na gCapaill Topo June 2021 (Yellow).jpg|alt=|center|861x861px]]

-1. '''High Five''' 18m S (4a) 
''(Martin Daly , Conan McSharry Daly - 26/06/2021)'' 
Start: 25m left of route No. 1 ( Santa Maria de Vison) there is a wall which is broken by a ledge at 10m. The route starts in the centre of the wall. 
Climb the centre of the wall on pockets and square cut edges until the ledge at 10m is reached. Continue up the wall above the ledge to a small overhang below the top. Surmount the overhang by using good holds on the left to gain the top. Good protection.

1. '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)'' 
The route takes the left hand side of the wall. 
Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.

2. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019'' 
Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Straight up a thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds.

3. '''An Éalaitheoir''' 25m HVS (5a) 
C Ó Fiannachta, J Mcnulty. 19/06/2021 
A few metres right of Garda Síochána there is a bulge/overhang at mid height split by a thin crack (crux). This route takes a direct line through this. Start at the second short rightward facing corner directly below the bulge and continue in a direct line. Hard but well protected crux leads to easier climbing. Cleaned prior, lead onsight

3a. '''Slí na Fianna.''' 25m HS 4b * 
(C Ó Fiannachta, L Slaughter, 12/07/2021) 
This route takes a direct line up the series of cleaned bulges and cracks just left of Dreadnought and finishing up the slightly dodgy looking detached pillar/arête. Start at a low rightward facing corner step and climb up to below yellow stained bulge swing left to good pockets under bulge then back right to stay on bulge. Follow cracks on bulges to top.

4. '''Dreadnought''' 25m HS 4a 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 15th April 2021)'' 
Left of Juliana there is an obvious corner that the route follows. For the first few metres the profile of the corner is to the right. Climb this (crux) to where the profile of the corner changes to the left. Follow the rest of the corner at V Diff using jugs and small ledges to where a step left can be made onto the arete just below the top. Good protection throughout.

5. '''Juliana''' 25m VS (4c) 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
Start 2m right of Dreadnought. There is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).

6. '''Lockdown Lunacy''' 25m HVS 5a/b 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
A few metres right of Juliana there is a large ledge at 2 metres. Gain the ledge.
Midway along the ledge, climb the overhang with difficulty using the thin crack to gain good stance above. Climb the wall to a detached flake at mid height (thread runner). Continue to stance below the righthand end of overhang. Climb this, strenuously, to top and belay.
Good protection throughout.

7. '''Lavia''' 25m E1(5b) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018) ''
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top. 
'''Direct start''': At the righthand end of the big scoop climb the groove for a few metres. Step right onto the arete at the pocket (no 4 friend). Continue up to the stance below faint crack. (M. Daly, B. Foley - 13/06/21)

7a. '''Téigh Siar Fear Óg''' 27m HS 4b 
''L. Slaughter, M. Magennis. 10/07/2021'' 
Takes the large obvious diagonal fault. Start at the base of the crack shared by Lavia and Firestarter and follow this line diagonally rightwards. Make a move around and over the bulge at half height (crux) to good gear and easier terrain. Continue up and right to finish up corner groove right of An Domhan Nua.

'''''3m to the right of this is'''''

8. '''Firestarter''', 20m HVS 5a/b * 
''C Ó Fiannachta, J Gillmor. 13/05/2019'' 
This route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves using small flat holds to surmount this to good holds and rest. The fire has been started. Finish straight up slabby wall.

9. '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019'' 
Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.

'''''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..'''''

10. '''An Domhan Nua''', 20m, S(4a) 
''C. Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 27/04/2019'' 
Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.
[[File:Scalp na gCapaill Topo (right side) June 2021 (Adjusted line 22-23).jpg|none|thumb|977x977px]]

11. '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017'' 
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.

'''''The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by'''''

12. '''Moore Street Trader''' 25m HVS (5a) * 
''(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.

13. '''Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay

14. '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b) 
''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)'' 
Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay

'''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''

15. '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay

16. '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b) 
''(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)'' 
On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Do not belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off as it’s dead. Better now to finish up more easily on the cleaned groove on left or further left by joining one of the previous routes.

17. '''Postie Pornstar''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)'' 
The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.

'''''Two lines were climbed in the 70’s (18 & 21)to the right of this face and are as follows:'''''

18. '''Hanging Tree Chimney''' 25m Severe (3a) 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.

19. '''Groovezone''' 25m Severe 4a (Unknown)

20. ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.

21. '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.

'''''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by'''''

22. '''Teach Urlar''' 17m HS (4b) 
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007) 
Climb the leftward trending blocky crack to top. Stake belay

'''''The adjoining crack is taken by'''''

23. '''Floozy in the Jacuzzi''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this to top. Stake belay.

'''''One metre further right is another crack, the most obvious crack on wall'''''

24. '''Crack Cocaine''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct to top . Stake belay.

25. Unknown

North-facing Cliff

2021-07-02T10:20:39Z

Daveh: Small line-break fixes.

[[File:Nfc.jpg|200px|Nfc.jpg]] [Photo shows West side of Main gully, Emperor Buttress and Main Face]

These cliffs have so far provided the best and hardest routes in the Comeragh Mountains. The rock is steep and clean cut with well developed vertical jointing. Though the main face is a bit gloomy in all but the nicest weather, many of the climbs are in fact on the side walls of the large gullies bounding and bisecting the cliff and therefore receive a fair amount of sunshine.

The cliff is best approached via a high sheep track above the southern shore of the lake. Gain height steeply from the south east corner of the lake and then contour the hillside on some sheep tracks.

Descent is best achieved by continuing up the hillside until a sheep track is encountered and then traversing off to the left (east) to gain the large gully. (In the dark, it is better to go higher still to a second sheep track before traversing east). For climbs west of Black Chocolate gully, it is best to traverse off to the west. However, it is important to gain open ground before descending, rather than attempting the open gully which has a tricky section lower down.

==Coumshingaun North-facing Cliffs Layout==

'''Main Gully [East side]''' Sea Breeze Karaluk '''Main Gully [West side]''' Amelia Harvest Moon Sleep of Reason Sleep of Reason direct '''Emperor Buttress''' Twin-crack Corner Kishon Prophets of Baal Horeb Yammerschooner Vale of Galgopleye Emperor’s Nose '''Emperor Buttress West face''' Talking God Dark Angel Dark Angel- direct start Stone the Roses Capricorn '''Main Face''' The Khalid Question The Medial Axis Perne in a Gyre The Delta Variant The Immortal Path The Tower of Darkness Geronimo Cuinne Flaithulach Anchor Alley, Greystone A Mast For The Soul Journey to the Great Flake '''Atom Ant Wall ''' Crooked Smile Tyger tyger Grendel Atom Ant Slippery People Controlled Burning '''Grey Hotel Buttress''' Damocles Grey Hotel '''Black Chocolate Gully – Birdman Wall''' Birdman Planet Clare Raging cow '''Black Chocolate Gully''' Central Pillar of Chocolate '''Bk. Choc. Gully – Satanic Majesty Wall''' Colours on the Water Satanic Majesty Prehistoric World '''West Face''' Filamingo Ed’s Roof Stephen’s Crack Chuckler The Diamond Griddler Griddler Arete '''The West End''' Run Rabbit Red-line Vibrations Anstey’s Desire The Tailor Perpetual Motion A Walk on the West End West End Slab

[[File:Cs north3.png|800px|Cs north3.png]]

==ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS==

===Main Gully East side [West-facing wall]===

Sea Breeze 20m [E1 5b] P. Scanlan, B. McConnell Aug 2015 [On Sight]

Start at the front of the lower buttress (left side), climb steeply up the small crack line to gain a ledge, the line narrows until the crack widens half way up the buttress. Now climb the wide crack on the other wise blank slab, hand jams are not possible but good holds can be obtained within the crack, 5 friend needed to protect. Make strenuous moves up to small ledge and place protection before making hard delicate moves to the belay ‘pulpit’.

'''KARALUK''' 20m [HS 4b] J Bergin, D McGrath, April 1988 Start at the left end (lower) of the buttress, and right of a wide and broken looking crack. Climb up steeply on large holds to the base of an overhang, traverse diagonally right until it is possible to climb a crack to the belay 'pulpit'.

The following two little routes are on a fairly clean buttress approx. 30 meters higher up the gully and on the same side as Karaluk

Sadrack 10m [HS 4b] J. Bergin, R Smith. June 2012 Start at the left end of the buttress,, about 1 meter to the right of the left edge. Step up and diagonally leftwards until you reach the top left end of the buttress, and under a large block. Continue directly upwards, then carefully up the vegetation to belay about 4 meters from the top.

Nanuk. 10m [S/VD 4a?] J. Bergin, R. Smith. June 2012. This route starts about 2 meters to the right of Sadrak, under a small left trending ramp which starts after about 2meters....the first move is probably harder than VDiff. Gain the ramp and follow it to the top which is right of a large block. Continue directly upwards, then tread carefully on the vegetation to belay back about 4 meters.

===Main Gully West side [East-facing Wall]===

'''This is the wall bounding the east side of the North Facing Cliff proper. It is located opposite and slightly lower than the Karaluk buttress. The climbing is steep and fingery on this vertical wall, with good cracks and sharp incuts.'''

'''AMELIA''' 23m VS 4c J Bergin. A Widger, 25 Aug. 1991 A fine wall route which starts almost directly under the left most of three steep corners facing the lake. 1. Climb up the steep left end of a ramp, where a few delicate moves lead to easier climbing to gain the corner. This is climbed using the arete on the left. At top of corner, trend right and find the least-unappealing line. Top-out horrendous.

'''HARVEST MOON''' 27m [HVS 5a/b] J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 Start at the first section of an obvious ramp which starts immediately right of a damp section of the cliff. Climb the ramp until it is possible to bridge across to a diagonal crack to the left of a huge 'detached' block. Some strenuous jams bring you to reach the top of the flake (it might be advisable not to use camming devices behind the large block which is detached from the face). From here, follow the steep curving crack in the corner above to the top. Variation: E2 5c Follow the steep curving crack on the face which is hard uncomfortable 5c

'''THE SLEEP OF REASON''' 35m [E3 6a] S. Gallwey (unseconded), 7 May 1989 An athletic route of sustained difficulty and interest, climbing up the left (east-facing) side of the obvious steep arete where the east and north faces intersect. Start at the base of the arete. Climb out onto resting stance on right-hand wall. Reach back left into crack and make a hard move to gain better holds. Continue up with difficulty until it is possible to follow parallel diagonal cracks leftwards to the overlap. Gain hold on right above overlap, and then make a long reach out right for small incut hold. Hard strenuous moves upwards establish one on better holds above the overlap (crux). Move diagonally right to the arete to gain a good handhold, which once stood upon, provides the first "hands off" rest of the route. Climb up the arete on slightly easier ground to a ledge about 4 m. below the top. Move left off ledge to climb a short overhanging wall on large holds to the top.

'''SLEEP OF REASON DIRECT''' 35m [E5 6a] This does not follow the cracks leftward but goes straight up. Sustained. H Fogg, G Fogg 2009

===The Emperor area & main North facing cliff===

'''The Emperor, a startling great prow of rock with a cracked overhang (the nose) near the top, juts out of the North Facing Cliff near its east end. Several good routes tackle its exposed flank.'''

===Emperor Buttress===

'''TWIN-CRACK CORNER''' 35m [E1 5b] Gain rushy ledge at 6m. Move to right-hand side of ledge. Climb boldly past bulge [in-situ peg, placed on lead] to eponymous corner. G Fogg, H Fogg 8/8/08 Onsight.

'''KISHON''' 50m [HVS 5a] Just left of base-camp, climb/chimney the edge of the detached flake. At the ledge, move out from the corner onto the short hanging slab at left to gain the bottom of the thin crack that leads to the corner above and thence to the higher corner above to left. At the top is a short vertical wall with good gear. With 50m ropes, it is necessary to belay above this and let your second continue through the last 2m to ledge. Abseil descent from in-situ slings. G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning.

'''PROPHETS OF BAAL''' 48m [E1 5b] Start as for ''Kishon''. From ledge, ascend corner system to right, through overhang, heading for higher wider overhang and niche above to left, and on to abseil ledge. G Fogg H Fogg 15/5/10 Prior abseil cleaning.

'''HOREB''' 20m [E2 6a] A test-piece from the abseil-ledge to the top. From the left-hand side of the ledge, straight up through overhang, following crack. H Fogg G Fogg 22/5/10 Abseil inspection.

'''YAMMERSCHOONER''' 70m [E3 6a 4c] This is the leftmost corner of the three-toothed overhang just right of base-camp boulder. 1. 46m Climb the ramp to ledge [level with start of the Emperor] and then left to overhanging corner. Solve the problem of what to do, then thrutch up [well-protected]. Enjoyable climbing follows to good ledge. 2. 25m Continue to top and boulder belay. Abseil descent from tat via ledge ideal. G Fogg, H Fogg 21/6/09 Prior cleaning on abseil.

'''VALE OF GALGOPLEYE''' 70m [E4 6a/b 5a] This is the rightmost of the three-toothed overhangs. 1. 35m Start as for Yammerschooner to ledge. A peg protects the move off the ledge to a tenable position and protection below the overhang. Getting further is hard. Higher up transfer delicately across to the right-hand crack and continue to a sloping belay at the left-hand end of the Emperor ledge. 2. 35m Bridge up chimney and continue to top to boulder belay. H Fogg, G Fogg 20/7/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF.

'''EMPEROR'S NOSE''' 60m [E2 5b, 5b] S. Gallwey, W. Lee. August 1980 This climb takes the line of the obvious corner crack on the left side of the arete with the prominently overhanging nose near the top. Start from the base of the chimney/gully, traverse left around the arete that forms the eastern wall of the gully. Start below the corner, just left of a square-cut overhang at 4 m. 1) 27 m. Climb the wall to the ledge at 5 m. (crux 1). Climb the corner until the crack in the back of it closes at approx. 15 m. With difficulty reach a large hold on the arete to the right. Swing out onto this and mantle-shelf it (crux 2). Continue up the arete to a ledge. Step back left into corner and up easy ground to belay at back of ledge. Avoid loose flake. (2) 33 m. Climb the good crack past the nose to exit onto a ledge on the right, just below the top. Belay. Good protection though some large pieces are needed for the top pitch.

Variation: Stay in corner on first pitch. H Fogg, G Fogg 13/6/04

===Emperor West Face===

[[File:DATopo2.jpg|370px|DATopo2.jpg]]

'''6 TALKING GOD''' 30m [E4 6a] S Gallwey, J Bergin. July 1991 An exciting and exposed climb up the right hand overhanging and undercut arete of the emperor. Climb the first pitch of Dark Angel, and continue for approximately 4m to belay on small stance underneath the first of two overhangs on the arete to the right. Start - In the corner, level with the lower overhang. Make several hard moves diagonally leftwards across the wall just above the overhangs, to gain a vertical crack in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack to a horizontal break where another hard move is encountered to get established in the crack above. Continue on up the crack until it is possible to reach the edge of the arete just below the overhanging section. Step left for a good rest. Climb the overhanging arete on huge holds to get another rest below the nose. Ascend past the nose on the right hand side, making a hard move to get established on the face. Reach back left to the arete and climb this more easily to the top. Good protection, though camming devices are not recommended too close to the edge of the arete.

'''TALKING GOD DIRECT START''' [E5 6a/b] From the Dark Angel belay, climb the corner to under the overhang. Fix protection and traverse left to rest on ledge. Pause. Traverse back right under overhang to gain base of crack. Continue to top.

H. Fogg 22/6/2014 Onsight.

'''7 DARK ANGEL''' 60m [HVS 4c, 5a] O. Jacob, S. Gallwey , June 1980 The route takes the line of the ramp that runs up the western wall of the emperor, forming an obvious corner in its upper sections. Start in a sentry box overlooking the lake, just around the corner from the gully. (1) 25 m. Climb the crack to where the rock steepens. Traverse left for 3 m. and climb the flakes to a sloping ledge below the prominent roof. (2) 35 m. Move right into the main corner and climb it to the top. Crux is surmounting the first overlap. Good protection. This excellent route has unfortunately become mossy in recent years which has spoiled its looks. It is not a problem when dry, rather it lends itself to smoother and more satisfying hand-jams. '''Alternative Start''' - 12 m 12m [E1 5b] S. Gallwey, W. Lee, August 1980 Climb the obvious jamming crack which splits the east wall of the gully to join Dark Angel at a large ledge.

'''STONE THE ROSES''' 60m [E3 5c, 5b] The blank vertical west-facing wall. 1. 30m Mantel onto start ledge then follow the cracks which lead to arête at horizontal break. Move back onto face to follow crack to belay at mid-way ledge. 2. 30m Move right to wide crack. Where crack forks, take left-hand option to top. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan 5/4/08 Cleaned on abseil.

Alternative finish: [5b] Take the right-hand option to top. [in error] G Fogg, H Fogg '08

'''CAPRICORN''' 60m [E5 6a/b] Start as for Stone the Roses. 1. 30m Follow the Right-hand crack until it is possible [but hard] to gain the bottom of the thin crack further right. Thin climbing with just enough protection leads to the horizontal break [big cams]. More moves lead to thin ledge/corner and a committing move to higher slanting ledge to right which leads to belay ledge. 2. 30m As for Stone the Roses. H Fogg, G Fogg 24/8/09 Cleaned on abseil.

===Main Face===

The bottom section of this part of the cliff is covered with a vertical garden of wet-loving vegetation and climbing on this is neither possible nor desirable [a recent scar on this is due to a natural failure of the mechanical strength of the vegetation and not to any misguided cleaning by climbers]. This does not shorten the climbs -- they start level with most of the rest but it does make getting to their foot more difficult -- a little adventure in itself.

'''THE KHALID QUESTION''' 75m [E1 5a 5b 5b] This begins as for The Medial Axis but takes the blunt arete to the left up the centre of this wall. 1. 30m. Start as for The Medial Axis but move left to belay on the second large ledge/terrace. 2. 25m. Continue up the broken crack for 2 or 3m then step left at rowan sapling and climb to left of arete to gain cracks at arete. Continue to ledge. 3. 20m. Begin up left-slanting flakes then go up straight to tooth and corner. G.Fogg[2] H.Fogg[3] 27/7/2014 Onsight.

'''THE MEDIAL AXIS''' 75m [E2 5a 5c 5c] This is in the bay between Emperor Buttress and the Main Face. 1. 30m 5a. On the right hand side of the bay is a slab with a crack up the centre. The crack sports tufts of frochan festooned with moss-like filmy fern. Climb a series of edges to the right of this, finding protection in the crack, without needlessly disturbing the vegetation, to a large woodrush ledge. Continue up the broken groove to a small grassy stance about 5 or 10m below the flat face. 2. 30m 5c. Continue to flat face, stepping over clubmoss. The face is immaculate. The arrow-straight crack accepts small wires and micros. 3. 15m 5c. Step left and finish up crack through small overhang. Tricky. G.Fogg [1], H.Fogg [2&3] 15/6/2014. Top pitches cleaned G.Fogg flashed H.

'''PERNE IN A GYRE''' 80m [E1 5a/b 5a/b 5a 5a] A devious route, not all visible from below, with a couple of moments of notable exposure. Location: At the left-hand side of the embayment defined at its right-hand side by the blank face of the second pitch of The Immortal Path. Approach: The start of the approach ledge is marked by a slender inverted truncated triangular buttress one third the height of the cliff. A few metres past this brings you below two pillars in succession above. Pitches 1 and 2 take the East-facing corners formed by these pillars. Lack of precision in the grading is the result of the difficulty of judging when cleaning with an ice-axe on lead. 1. 25m 5a/b Climb from the ledge to the base of the first corner and continue to the base of the second corner. 2. 10m 5a/b The second corner. Belay on the top of the pillar at the square-cut rock ledge. 3. 20m 5a Follow the diagonal crack rightwards to the arete and around it to gain the start of the vertical crack which widens rapidly as it rises. Belay at the terminal spike of the flake, standing on the large jammed block. 4. 25m 5a Continue to the top of the next huge flake and make an airy step across the crevasse to the left-hand side of the slab and follow a short crack to the large rough corner. The last couple of metres at the top are steep. G Fogg, M Griffin 26/9/2020 Pitches 1 and 2 onsight.

'''THE DELTA VARIANT''' 80m [E2 4c 5c 5b] 1. Same as ''The Immortal Path. ''2. Climb the crack as for ''The Immortal Path,'' but instead of moving to the arete, continue up the crack. A no.4 Camalot protects this section. 3. 40m 5b Step across the corner and climb the small corner and groove behind the small rowan tree. No sling on the tree or its root, please, as it seems only barely attached itself. Keep going up until the way above peters out. Make an exposed and exciting but, happily, not entirely unprotected traverse left, to gain a crack system leading up. Near the top, it opens up and looks easy but the difficulties continue to the very top, when you exit left, from beneath a block over the corner, to squirm out into the sunshine. An intermediate belay may be taken below the top to allow communication with your second. G Fogg, M Griffin 29/6/2021 Top pitch cleaned on abseil 2020

'''THE IMMORTAL PATH''' 82m [E2 4c 5c 5a 4c] Approach: Traverse from the foot of Dark Angel. About 20m ahead, a flat face at half height extends down along its edge to the ledge. 1.22m 4c Follow up beside the face in a cleaned channel to a large sloping woodrush ledge. Hard to start. 2. 20m 5c. From the top of the block, climb the crack which widens as it rises. Where the crack becomes offwidth, place a large piece (no. 11 Hex is good) and, using a narrow ledge, gain the arete. Follow the arete, and the crack which runs from this point, to the belay ledge. Beware of the large spike at the ledge which may be used for balance but should not be pulled on. From the belay, continue along the ledge to where it reveals itself as a flake. Drop down behind the flake to a good belay nest below a steep corner. 3. 25m 5a Climb the corner and then follow the large broken crack to the top of Geronimo buttress. Continue over some stacked boulders to a large recess. Belay. 4. 15m 4c + 8m Exit recess to the left, maintaining respect for the exposure. A large rounded boulder set into the hillside above provides a positive belay for a large sling or rope loop. Pitches 1and 2 onsight. G Fogg, M Griffin 6/7/2020. Pitch 3 cleaned on abseil and climbed. G Fogg, M Griffin, P Flynn 20/7/2020

'''THE TOWER OF DARKNESS''' 80m [E1 4c 5b 5b 5a 4c] Approach: Past the start of The Immortal Path, the ledge narrows. Continue along this to a small notch at the base of the next corner system. Belay. 1. 10m 4c. A couple of metres of rock gives way to some steep woodrush swimming to a comfortable ledge below the steep vee corner. 2. 10m 5b The corner. 3. 20m 5b Continue to ledge. 4. 25m 5a (pitch 3 of The Immortal Path) Up steep corner and then larger broken corner, over stacked boulders to large recess. 5. 15m 4c Track right. Whichever line is taken in this top part, it is still climbing, not as easy as it looks like being, and still potentially serious. G Fogg, M Griffin 14/9/2020 Climbed onsight.

'''GERONIMO''' 70m [E2 5b 5b 5b] This route leads up to and through the clean crack through the bare overhanging bulge at threequarters height to the left of Cuinne Flaithuilach. Traverse the ledge as for Cuinne Flaithuilach. At the end of the sketchy section is a corner. Start here. Cuinne Flaithuilach is 3m further on. 1. Ascend the crack above the corner to a good ledge. 2. Follow the crack with trapped flakes, through a small overhang and slab above to ledges 3. Second should traverse left to belay below the crack through the overhang. Pull through the overhang to glorious climbing above. Higher is a short broken crack to top of pillar and ledges. 4. Diff climbing and scrambling leads to moorland. G Fogg, P Britton 26/3/2011 Onsight. Cleaned on lead. One rest for cleaning on pitch 2. First ascent took over seven hours. Further ascents should take somewhat less.

'''CUINNE FLAITHIULACH''' 70m [HVS 5a, 4b, 5a] J Bergin, M Keenleyside, 20th Aug. 1991 This route, for a long time, the only one on the main face proper, climbs an impressive dark steep corner with excellent jamming and bridging on the left side (east) of a prominent bay in the middle of the North facing cliff. The start is reached by a traverse right from the foot of Dark Angel, which is best done in boots, and the boots then thrown down to the track underneath (or carried to the top !!). The traverse is airy but there is ample protection and the moves are no more that V Diff. The first two pitches can be combined, but you will loose contact with your second, and there is the slight possibility of the rope getting jammed in a corner. 1. 25m. Climb the arete to the left of the corner until you are forced to escape to the slab on the right, which is climbed easily until the corner steepens. Some delicate bridging and/or lay-backing (crux) brings you to the base of an overhang. Move left onto the wall and climb to gain the corner above. Belay. 2. 15m. Climb easily up the corner and gain a grassy recess and belay. (It might be advisable to belay to the left in the recess out of the direct line of the final pitch due to some potentially loose rock. 3. 30m. Climb the steep crack above with the aid of some huge jugs to a small terrace, continue up above this and follow the continuing crack to the top. The last section is impending but well protected.

'''ANCHOR ALLEY, GREYSTONE''' 75m [E2 5b, 5c, 5a] A soaring line on the right-hand side of the bay of which Cuinne Flaithiuilach is on the left. Bring lots of largish hexes or friends for pitch 1. Approach as for the last i.e. tied on and putting in protection as required. Belay 2m left of the corner overhead. 1. 25m Climb short vertical face to slab and traverse this to base of corner and cracks on right. Ascend jamming crack to jammed block and offwidth. Belay bridged across corner on left. 2. 25m Continue up corner past two bulging sections and make tricky exit onto grassy ledge on right. Belay anchors 2m to right at foot of next pitch. 3. 25m Climb straight up just right of jutting nose. Belay on top of this -- one of the best belay perches in the Comeraghs. Scramble the last two or three metres to heathery top. Traverse off left. G Fogg [1 &3] H Fogg [2] 22/7/2011 Prior cleaning on abseil.

'''A MAST FOR THE SOUL''' 75m [E1 5b, 5b, 5a] 
Interesting and varied climbing. It starts from the same point as Journey to the Great Flake and shares the same top pitch as Anchor Alley, Greystone 
1. 35m Start as for Journey to the Great Flake but trend left to reach the slab. This is traversed delicately to gain the crack through the overhang. Climb the crack to reach the belay at the ledge on top of a flake. 
2. 15m Jam the bulging crack above the belay and negotiate the less-straightforward patch above to belay on a good grassy ledge. 
3. 25m As for Anchor Alley. 
G. Fogg [1], H. Fogg [2], R. Pearson [3] 22/5/2017 Cracks cleaned on abseil.

'''JOURNEY TO THE GREAT FLAKE ''' 60m  [E1 5b, 5b]

An entertaining route demanding a wide range of climbing skills. It takes a plumb-line path from the ledge to the left-hand edge of the Great Flake and through an overhang on the skyline. Lower down it passes through a section of shallow chimney formed by a small corner on the right and thin jutting blocks on the left.

Approach:  Traverse onto ledge from right as for ''Crooked Smile''. Continue, crawling under a low roof and on 4m until directly below the afore-mentioned chimney.

'''1'''.  30m  Delicate climbing leads to the smooth chimney. Once established in it, progress is made by back-and-foot bridging. Above, move left onto the face to tackle the bulge and, with right hand on the arete, continue to belay at a small stance just left of and level with the Great Flake ledge.

'''2'''.  30m  Climb up, trending right, to the crack through the overhang at the edge of the Flake. This is overcome by gymnastic bridging and jamming. Easier climbing to the belay.

Descent: The ''Atom Ant'' abseil point is a couple of metres to the right around the corner.

G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell  15/5/2016  Onsight.

===Black Chocolate gully area===

'''This area contains the biggest concentration of good quality hard climbs in the coum. The initial west facing wall adjacent to crooked smile is probably the only area in the Comeraghs approaching route saturation. This clean cut wall, being just off vertical, allows for hard climbing on some very small holds. Having the afternoon sun on your back gives a welcome boost to climbing on this high mountain crag. There are two old abseil bolts at the top of Atom Ant. Test these well with good belay back up before use.'''

[[File:Cs 9 to 13.png|400px|Cs 9 to 13.png]]

'''9 CROOKED SMILE''' 60m [HVS 4b, 5a] S. Gallwey (2), E. Hernstadt (1) June 1981 This climb takes the crooked chimney/corner system which splits the arete formed between the main face of the cliff and the left wall of the gully. Start just left of the base of the arete on a large ledge. Traverse in from right. (1) 20 m. Climb the obvious flakes on the arete and then up the right-hand wall. Traverse right to a crack splitting a large block. From top of block, step across to large ledge and belay in base of a short corner. (2) 40 m. Climb corner and traverse left to base of chimney. Climb chimney to hanging slab leading up left. Climb slab until forced out onto the arete by the overhang. Pass the overhang and then climb up diagonally rightwards to the top of the crag.

===Atom Ant Wall===

'''10 TYGER TYGER''' 35m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. April 1988 This route climbs the steep, straight crack on the exposed face just right of Crooked Smile. Start from the belay below the 2nd pitch of Crooked Smile. Climb up the left-hand side of a large flake leaning against the face. From the top of the flake, climb the wall and crack to its end.

'''11 GRENDEL''' 40m [E1 5b] E. Hernstadt, S. Gallwey August 1984 This route takes the steep corner just right of Tyger Tyger. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) As for Crooked Smile. (2) Climb the short corner and step right to a large flake. From the top of the flake, step around to the right into the base of the main corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, which is turned to the right (crux). Climb the short corner above to the top.

'''12 ATOM ANT''' 40m [E2 5c] S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. August 1984 This route takes a diagonal line up the wall to the right of Grendel. Start as for Crooked Smile. (1) - As for Crooked Smile. (2) - Follow Grendel to the base of the large corner. Climb the diagonal crack line trending rightwards to a small ledge. Traverse left to join Grendel for the short upper corner. Strenuous. '''Direct finish''' S Gallwey, J Bergin. June 1991 Climb straight up the face with good holds and protection

'''SLIPPERY PEOPLE''' 30m [E3 6a] S Gallwey, June 1992 This route climbs the wall about 3m left of Controlled Burning, joining a good crack-line at mid point. Start - Scramble up the leftwards trending diagonal grassy ramp which starts at the base of the chimney. Scramble up another right ward trending grassy ramp to belay at the base of the wall. Climb up the wall on very small holds, using small wires for protection. Above a small overlap, a good crack presents itself and easier climbing leads to a series of round holes in the face. A hard move near the top puts you in position to finish by grabbing the edge of Controlled Burning to the right. From the ledge, the direct finish to Atom Ant, probably provides the best way up.

'''13 CONTROLLED BURNING''' 30m [E2 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. May 1991 This climb takes the obvious vertical crack up the right hand side of the face 2m to the right of Atom Ant. Climb the wall (crux) with holds and protection improving with height. Gain a good crack and climb this to the top of the tower. From the ledge, climb directly up the face to the right of the direct finish of Atom Ant. Good protection.

===Grey Hotel Buttress===

'''DAMOCLES''' 70m [E4 6a 4c] This starts in the corner at the left-hand side of Grey Hotel Buttress, just right of a deep wet cave. A good view of the route is to be had whilst abseiling Atom Ant wall. 1. 48m Climb the initial awkward corner [small friends] and onto slab at right. Find some protection for the blank vertical/bulging section which leads to better holds and then to ledge. Go left around the arête into the upper corner which has good protection [small wires]. Exiting corner onto arête at ‘damocles’ block is also hard. Continue to belay at large triangular block. 2. 20m Easy climbing to top. Belay at top of Grey Hotel. H Fogg, G Fogg 17/8/09 Cleaned GF, flashed HF.

[[File:Birdman wall.png|400px|Birdman wall.png]]

'''15 GREY HOTEL''' 85m [E3 6a,5a,5b] Pitches 1 & 2 -S. Gallwey, E. Hernstadt. (alternate leads) May 1987 Pitch 3 - S Gallwey, J Bergin. Spring 1990 This climb takes the grey face/tower situated in the deep gully to the right of Crooked Smile. The initial wall faces out towards the lake and is about 10 m. across. Recommend combining pitches 1&2. Start - At centre of face. (1) 25 m. Climb up diagonally rightwards to top of choss. Gain a horizontal break above with a vertical crack at its left-hand side. Climb up strenuously just right of the crack, making hard moves to gain a small resting ledge near the right-hand arete. Climb the face to the left to gain the left-hand crack again and follow this up until level with a large sloping ledge on the right. Traverse right to gain this and belay. (2) 20 m. Climb the overhanging corner above, past a ledge on the left-hand wall, to exit onto a large grassy ledge. (From here it is possible to scramble up to the right onto the Birdman ledge). (3) 40m. Climb the pleasant corner at the back of the ledge into overhanging territory until it is possible to gain a second non-overhanging corner to the right. Follow up the face of the ramp with the off-width crack on the left (Small wires in the left-hand wall). The crux is at 3/4 height. Respect the precarious - looking block at the top.

===Black Chocolate Gully - East side===

'''16 BIRDMAN''' 70m [E2 4a 5b 5b] O. Jacob (1,3), S. Gallwey (2). November 1981 The Birdman headwall is very steep and offers superb climbing. It may be reached by following the first two pitches of Birdman, or better by way of the first two pitches of Grey Hotel. It is also worth abseiling into it for its own sake. It is located high up on the left hand side of the upper section of Black Chocolate gully. This climb is located in the gully to the right of Grey Hotel, finishing up the superb crack which splits the top headwall near its left-hand side. The 1st pitch is poor. Start - At a grassy section of the left wall of the gully just up from a large wedged block. (1) 18 m. Climb up leftward on mixed ground to the ridge. Continue up rightwards on ridge to gain a large grassy terrace and belay at the base of a short lay-back corner. (2) 30 m. Layback strenuously for 8 m. then scramble up right to a good ledge beneath the headwall. (3) 21 m. Climb obvious steep crack at left-hand end of headwall. At overhangs, use both cracks up to a little ledge. Climb diagonally right to the top.

'''17 PLANET CLARE''' 20m [E3 5c] S Gallwey, J Bergin. Sept. 1990 Climbs the wall to the right of Birdman through 4 small overhangs. Start - In the centre of the Birdman ledge. Best to belay somewhat to the right as there is a potentially loose block in the initial corner. Climb the rightward facing corner flake in the centre of the wall past the 'loose' block to the first overhang. Climb strenuously up a crack line to the right on finger jams and lay-aways to gain a good hand hold and thereafter the large ledge. Exit to the left.

'''18 RAGING COW''' 17m [HVS 5a] S. Gallwey, O. Jacob November 1981 This route takes the obvious crack to the right of the top pitch of Birdman. Start - At the right-hand end of the Birdman ledge. Climb the steep crack to the top.

'''BLACK CHOCOLATE GULLY''' ##### 90m S D Ellickson, T Sherman, 24. 3. 1963 The location of this climb is uncertain, despite best efforts of the editors. The only known attempt to repeat it was thought to be VS. This description is taken from an old IMC newsletter. 1. 21m. climb the buttress and step right into the gully. continue to stance and belay at large chock-stone. 2. 13m. Follow the gully to the second chock-stone. 3. 13m. Chimney past second chock-stone to belay beneath overhanging chock. 4. 19m. Step across gully to ledge in corner and climb the parallel cracks then back right to the gully and continue 6m to the bottom of a lichenous corner. Belay. 5. 12m. Climb the corner - steep and vegetated at the top. 6. 19m. The gully opens out into mixed rock and heather which is climbed directly or by a long traverse over the right wall.

'''CENTRAL PILLAR OF CHOCOLATE''' 35m [HVS 4c, 5a, 5b] 
At the back of the gully, the Central Pillar rises as a tower of stacked detached blocks. This route tackles the tower whereas 'Black Chocolate Gully' does seem actually to follow the gully up on the right. 
1. 15m 4c Climb the vegetated buttress, using the gully where prudent, to reach the wide crack behind the square-section block on the right-hand side of the Pillar and up this to belay on top of the block. 
2. 15m 5a Chimney the wide crack behind the next block to its top and continue up the ever-widening crack on the right with increasing difficulty. The only protection for this section is a micro wire on the left [unless you are carrying a very large cam]. 
3. 5m [+15 heather] 5b The dramatic jutting finger on left beckons, providing an exposed and exciting move or two to climb. Continue up the heather slope to find a belay at the rock band. 
If the finger does not appeal, a less intimidating option is offered by the open-book corner on the right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin, 19/6/2017 Onsight.

===Black Chocolate Gully - West side===

'''COLOURS ON THE WATER''' 45m [E3 5c] This is the striking crack threequarters of the way up the gully on the right hand side, l. 10m Climb crack to ]edge. 2. 35m Continue to top [Climb as one pitch] Pitch 1 G Fogg, S Gallwey 9/6/06 onsight [as new start to Satanic Majesty] Full route G Fogg, S Gallwey 17/6 06 onsight. Cleaned and abseil point put in 21/8/07

'''SATANIC MAJESTY''' 40m [E3/4 6a] From top of gully slope, traverse along narrow ledge on right, past `Colours' to crack system near arete. Belay. [preliminary pitch ] Climbing the cracks brings one to the left of a slab under the overhang at 35m. Traverse breathlessly right into the sunshine and climb more easily up the arete. S Gallwey, G Fogg Aug 2001, Abseil point put in 21/8/07 [Free-hanging abseil, 50m ropes OK]

'''PREHISTORIC WORLD''' 40m [E3 5c 5b] S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. 3 Sept. 1989 An exciting climb following the exposed line of the arete bounding the right-hand side of the gully. Very hard to protect [doubtful peg near start gives little confidence], moves 5c at least. Start - Directly opposite the start of Birdman, just above the wedged block that spans the gully. 1. 25 m. Climb up the arete to a horizontal break. Place a small wire blindly in crack high on left wall. Make hard moves to gain jugs above overlap. Continue up arete more easily to where the right wall forms an overhang. Move left onto the face and climb straight up on small holds (crux) to large holds and good protection back near the arete. Continue up arete to ledge and belay. 2. 15 m. After placing a high runner in the cracks to the left, climb up the arete to the flake (somewhat loose) and thence up easier ground to a magnificent belay pulpit, complete with abseil bolts.

===The West Face===

'''This consists of a pleasant series of buttresses and ribs at the West end of the North Facing Cliff. They possess an airy and open feeling which is a welcome change from the gully area to the left. The climbs are best located with reference to the West end buttress, the west most buttress with a gully to the right. The buttress appears to lean against the rest of the cliff. The arete of this buttress is taken by 'A Walk On The West End' while the face to the left (north) is taken by 'Perpetual Motion'. The next arete to the east divides in two at midpoint to form a double feature with a groove between and a capping overhang at the top. 'Ansty's Desire' and 'The Tailor' take the left and right aretes respectively.'''

Photo with most routes here: [[Media:CS_TheWestEndF9.jpg]]

'''FILAMINGO''' 45m [HVS 5a] Clean [now] corner immediately right of gully. Abseil descent as for 'Prehistoric World', P Britton, C Ennis, Hh Fogg; N Walls 13/6/04

'''RED WALL AND ROOF [ED'S ROOF]''' 25m [E2 5c] Back on the north-facing rock beyond Filamingo, past an undercut at ground level. Climb the curving corner crack and slab to obvious crack through roof. Continue to belay at boulder above. Descent is either by abseil from old nut plus new tat or by slithering down the near-vertical woodrush to fetch up at the foot of Filamingo. G Fogg, H Fogg 22/8/08 Onsight.

'''STEPHEN'S CRACK''' 15m [HVS 5a/b] Climb right-hand edge of slab at Ed’s Roof. Move right, around arête to broken crack. Generous jugs at the breaks make up for slight overhang. G Fogg, H Fogg, P Brennan. 13/6/09 Onsight.

'''CHUCKLER''' 20m [E4 6a] Traverse left from secret sentry-box to base of west-facing wall. Climb thin crack through small overhang to ledge. Abseil descent [tat]. H Fogg, G Fogg 22/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''THE DIAMOND''' 18m [E3 6a] The cleaned crack up the centre of the flat face. Abseil off ledge from tat at right. H Fogg, G Fogg 8/8/08 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER''' 16m [E2 5c] The left-slanting crack that joins to top of the Diamond. H Fogg, G Fogg 21/6/09 Cleaned GF flashed HF.

'''GRIDDLER ARETE''' 60m HS 4c, 4c, 4c 
This long arete is a scruffy companion to Anstey's Desire to the right and a counterpoint to the the short hard technical Griddler and Diamond to the left. 
1. 15m. Step across the ledge and climb the distinctive three-piece pillar to the ledge [the top for The Diamond and Griddler]. Continue around to the right and up a short slab to the large flat ledge. 
2. 30m. From the left hand side of the ledge, climb the cracks and step airily back right to regain the arete. There follows the long broken scruffy section. Keep to the right hand side of the arete on the slabs. 
3. 15m. The clean steep more challenging-looking top section of the arete. 
G. Fogg, B. Mc Connell 10/05/2017 Onsight.
===The West End===

'''RAMPANT RABBIT''' [HVS] The broken crack a couple of metres left of 'Red-line Vibrations'. M Walsh, H Hennessy '07

'''RED-LINE VIBRATIONS''' 40m [E3 5b 5c] “Start 5m left of Ansty’s Desire. 1. 20m Steep gnarly fist-crack to technical ramp, then easy traverse to base of arête. 2. 20m Bold. Climb wall left of arête to small ledge. Move up and right around arête to large ledge [Anstey’s belay].” 3. Pitch 3 is pitch 2 of The Tailor. M Walsh, D O’Sullivan June 2007

'''ANSTY'S DESIRE''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5a] J Bergin, S Gallwey, 3rd June 1991 Start just down and left of the corner formed where the west end buttress joins the main cliff, at a broken corner with a steep slab to its right. 1. 30m. Layaway up the broken corner until it is possible to step left on to a slab, continue and climb an off-width crack on the right to a grassy ledge, then climb the off-width spectacularly to a large pulpit and belay. 2. 45m. Traverse left onto the arete on large holds and climb to the top. Crux at mid height. (50m ropes necessary to reach belay).

'''THE TAILOR''' 75m [HVS 4b, 5b] J Bergin, A Widger, 25th Aug. 1991 1. 30m. As for Ansty's Desire. 2. 45m. Gain the right hand arete, which is climbed to the top in a spectacular position. See the note re. belaying for Ansty's Desire.

'''PERPETUAL MOTION''' 65m [E1 4b, 5b, 4c] J Bergin. S Gallwey. 23rd May 1991 Start approx 10 m to the left of the arete A Walk On The West End in an obvious west facing corner. 1. 20m. Climb the corner on good holds. Break onto the face at the overhang and continue on to belay on a small ledge on the face. 2. 20m. Climb the crack with increasing difficulties. Surmount the overhang on small holds and climb to the base of the next, larger overhang. Traverse delicately to the left and then continue up to belay on the arete. 3. 25m. Climb the arete to the top. This pitch is shared with A Walk On The West End, and may be made slightly harder by keeping to the left of the arete.

'''A WALK ON THE WEST END''' 55m [HS 4a,4c] J. Bergin, S Gallwey. 16th May 1991 This route climbs the obvious arete at the end of the cliff. It is probably the best lower grade route in the Comeraghs, with a real feeling of traveling and exposure. The one 4c move is very well protected and could be aided if necessary. Start - on a slab on the west face of the arete. 1. 30m. Quickly gain the arete proper, and climb it to a large and convenient belay ledge. 2. 25m. Continue on up the sharp arete to the top. The crux is shortly above the belay.

'''WEST END SLAB''' 60m VS 4c, 4c 
Very nice slab climbing that starts at the same point as A Walk on the West End but takes the centre of the slab rather than the arete. 
1. 30m From the lowest point, track rightwards towards the centre of the slab and follow the overlap that curves on up. After 30m, move left to belay on the prominent clean nose.. 
2. 30m Traverse the vegetated ledge rightwards to reach clean rock. From here, aim to pass to the right of the rowans overhead. This means making repeated moves to the right. If in doubt step right. 
G. Fogg, M. Griffin. 8/7/2017 Onsight.

Howth Head

2021-06-23T10:45:58Z

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]

Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.

Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.

The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.

In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest. ''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.

The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!

While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.

Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.

<display_map zoom="13">
53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
</display_map>

==Deer Park Crag==

[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]

'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.

'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below). For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.

'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.

''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)

Climbs listed left to right.
[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]

===Mayan Rock===

''Mayan Rock Topo:''
[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]

The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:

'''Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees. 

===Maol Wall===

[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]

Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.

'''Grainne (HVS? 4c) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.

'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall, beware the loose block below the rhododendron stumps.
[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 

===Pine Tree Ledge===

The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.

''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]

'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.

'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.

'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''This climb is found in the center of the "Pine Tree Ledge" area. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
[[File:FireCertStart.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.

'''Navicula (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.

 [[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.

'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.

===Middle Yurt===
A section of the crag with easier angled slabs and ledges between "pine tree ledge" and "the northside".

'''Midshift Madness (S 4a) 23m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty''

Starts three meters to the left of "The Gabhar", once the first ledge is reached trend left until the steeper slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the groove to the right of the arete.

'''The Gabhar (S 4a) 22m'''

Starts on the right side of "middle yurt" just to the right of the rhododendron tree growing at the base, climb the obvious gully to the first ledge, then continue up the gully towards the crux where the face steepens before another ledge, from the ledge tend right to the short corner, climb this to top out.

===Northside===

''Northside Topo (left end):''

[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it. '''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.

'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle. PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.

'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m '''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018 ''
Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .

'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015 ''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish. 

[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Nicky Place''' (Diff) ''Ian Christie – June 2015 ''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.

'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m ''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015 ''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here. Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).

'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014 ''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb. Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.

'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019 ''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.

'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m ''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016 ''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground. 

[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]

'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014 ''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux). PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).

'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015 ''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).

'''The Budgie {Bites Back}''' (VS 4c) 20 mtrs PR: G° New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018 ''
Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.

'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.

'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b) 20 mtrs PR: G New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018 ''
Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.

'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015 ''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.

'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14 ''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top. 

===Southside===

Southside Topo:
[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''

[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''

'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14 ''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.

'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15 ''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.

'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required) ''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015 ''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.

'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014 ''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.

'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015 ''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.

'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.

'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015 ''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!

'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.

'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.

==Sutton to Baily==

From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is

===Warning Sign Slab===

Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88

'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.

'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb.. 

===Red Rock===

''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6

''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''

'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..

''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''

'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..

''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''

'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002. ''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear.. '''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up.. '''Toasted''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.. 

Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.

'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb.. '''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m) 4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb. '''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m) ''Jim Cooper?, January 2002 ''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile. 

===Martello Wall===

''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8

100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.

[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]

'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c) ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020 ''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts. 

'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m) ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi ''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays. 

===Sheep Hole Cliffs===

Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.

The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.

'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem. 

'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb. 

'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb up the front of this promontory. 

'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''

'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound. 

===Ayton’s Cave===

''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA

A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.

===Mussel Cove (with Block)===

''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89

After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.

The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.

The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.

There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).

'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001 ''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.

===Rusty Wall===

''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7

''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one of the established routes found here is "Interdimensional Fucker".''

[[File:Rusty.png|frameless|799x799px]]

'''Crumbling Castle''' E4 6a''' '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021 ''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route. Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.

'''Interdimensional Fucker''' (E5/6 6B) 12m ''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018 ''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.

'''Interstellar Hugger''' E3 5c''' '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021 ''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour. Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.

'''Interdimensional Cable''' E3 6a''' '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021''' '''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.

'''Interdimensional Nutter''' E2 5c''' '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021 ''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.

 '''300m-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''

===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96

This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.

On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.

'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''

''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''

''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''

===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===

Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6

Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.

From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.

Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.

Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.

Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.

On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).

==Baily to Howth Village==

There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.

===Webs Castle Rock===

Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7

[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]

Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.

===Puck's Rocks===

Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9

From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;

Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539

===Kilrock Quarry===

Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6

Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m? The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.

[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]

===Cat Rock===

Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA

Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.

Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.

'''Fizzecca''' (HVS/E1 5a/5b?) ''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016 ''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad. 

'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?) ''Chris acDhuibhne 2019 ''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended. 

[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]

===Balscadden Bay===

Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.

==Inland==

===Ben Howth Outcrops===

In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.

Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.

· The pillar is Hard Severe, · The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b, · The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe, · The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe, · The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct! All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001

Just above is a north west facing outcrop.

Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.

About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.

To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.

Howth Head

2021-06-23T10:44:54Z

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]

Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.

Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.

The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.

In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest. ''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.

The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!

While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.

Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.

<display_map zoom="13">
53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
</display_map>

==Deer Park Crag==

[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]

'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.

'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below). For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.

'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.

''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)

Climbs listed left to right.
[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]

===Mayan Rock===

''Mayan Rock Topo:''
[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]

The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:

'''Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees. 

===Maol Wall===

[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]

Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.

'''Grainne (HVS? 4c) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.

'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall, beware the loose block below the rhododendron stumps.
[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 

===Pine Tree Ledge===

The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.

''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]

'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.

'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.

'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''This climb is found in the center of the "Pine Tree Ledge" area. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
[[File:FireCertStart.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.

'''Navicula (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.

 [[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.

'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.

===Middle Yurt===
A section of the crag with easier angled slabs and ledges between "pine tree ledge" and "the northside".

'''Midshift Madness (S 4a) 23m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty''

Starts three meters to the left of "The Gabhar", once the first ledge is reached trend left until the steeper slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the groove to the right of the arete.

'''The Gabhar (S 4a) 22m'''

Starts on the right side of "middle yurt" just to the right of the rhododendron tree growing at the base, climb the obvious gully to the first ledge, then continue up the gully towards the crux where the face steepens before another ledge, from the ledge tend right to the short corner, climb this to top out.

===Northside===

''Northside Topo (left end):''

[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it. '''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.

'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle. PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.

'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m '''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018 ''
Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .

'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015 ''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish. 

[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Nicky Place''' (Diff) ''Ian Christie – June 2015 ''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.

'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m ''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015 ''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here. Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).

'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014 ''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb. Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.

'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019 ''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.

'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m ''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016 ''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground. 

[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]

'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014 ''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux). PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).

'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015 ''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).

'''The Budgie {Bites Back}''' (VS 4c) 20 mtrs PR: G° New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018 ''
Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.

'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.

'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b) 20 mtrs PR: G New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018 ''
Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.

'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015 ''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.

'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14 ''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top. 

===Southside===

Southside Topo:
[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''

[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''

'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14 ''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.

'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15 ''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.

'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required) ''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015 ''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.

'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014 ''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.

'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015 ''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.

'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.

'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015 ''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!

'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.

'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.

==Sutton to Baily==

From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is

===Warning Sign Slab===

Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88

'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.

'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb.. 

===Red Rock===

''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6

''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''

'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..

''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''

'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..

''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''

'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002. ''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear.. '''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up.. '''Toasted''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.. 

Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.

'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb.. '''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m) 4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb. '''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m) ''Jim Cooper?, January 2002 ''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile. 

===Martello Wall===

''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8

100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.

[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]

'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c) ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020 ''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts. 

'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m) ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi ''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays. 

===Sheep Hole Cliffs===

Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.

The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.

'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem. 

'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb. 

'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb up the front of this promontory. 

'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''

'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound. 

===Ayton’s Cave===

''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA

A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.

===Mussel Cove (with Block)===

''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89

After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.

The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.

The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.

There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).

'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001 ''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.

===Rusty Wall===

''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7

''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one of the established routes found here is "Interdimensional Fucker".''

[[File:Rusty.png|frameless|799x799px]]

'''Crumbling Castle E4 6a '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021 ''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route. Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.

'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m''' ''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018 ''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.

'''Interstellar Hugger E3 5c '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021 ''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour. Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.

'''Interdimensional Cable E3 6a '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021''' '''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.

'''Interdimensional Nutter E2 5c '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021 ''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.

 '''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''

===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96

This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.

On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.

'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''

''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''

''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''

===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===

Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6

Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.

From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.

Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.

Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.

Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.

On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).

==Baily to Howth Village==

There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.

===Webs Castle Rock===

Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7

[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]

Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.

===Puck's Rocks===

Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9

From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;

Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539

===Kilrock Quarry===

Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6

Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m? The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.

[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]

===Cat Rock===

Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA

Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.

Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.

'''Fizzecca''' (HVS/E1 5a/5b?) ''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016 ''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad. 

'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?) ''Chris acDhuibhne 2019 ''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended. 

[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]

===Balscadden Bay===

Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.

==Inland==

===Ben Howth Outcrops===

In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.

Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.

· The pillar is Hard Severe, · The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b, · The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe, · The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe, · The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct! All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001

Just above is a north west facing outcrop.

Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.

About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.

To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.

Howth Head

2021-06-23T10:42:13Z

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]

Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.

Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.

The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.

In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest. ''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.

The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!

While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.

Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.

<display_map zoom="13">
53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
</display_map>

==Deer Park Crag==

[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]

'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.

'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below). For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.

'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.

''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)

Climbs listed left to right.
[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]

===Mayan Rock===

''Mayan Rock Topo:''
[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]

The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:

'''Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees. 

===Maol Wall===

[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]

Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.

'''Grainne (HVS? 4c) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.

'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall, beware the loose block below the rhododendron stumps.
[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 

===Pine Tree Ledge===

The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.

''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]

'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.

'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.

'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''This climb is found in the center of the "Pine Tree Ledge" area. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
[[File:FireCertStart.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.

'''Navicula (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.

 [[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.

'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.

===Middle Yurt===
A section of the crag with easier angled slabs and ledges between "pine tree ledge" and "the northside".

'''Midshift Madness (S 4a) 23m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty''

Starts three meters to the left of "The Gabhar", once the first ledge is reached trend left until the steeper slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the groove to the right of the arete.

'''The Gabhar (S 4a) 22m'''

Starts on the right side of "middle yurt" just to the right of the rhododendron tree growing at the base, climb the obvious gully to the first ledge, then continue up the gully towards the crux where the face steepens before another ledge, from the ledge tend right to the short corner, climb this to top out.

===Northside===

''Northside Topo (left end):''

[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it. '''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.

'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle. PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.

'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m '''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018 ''
Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .

'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015 ''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish. 

[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Nicky Place''' (Diff) ''Ian Christie – June 2015 ''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.

'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m ''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015 ''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here. Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).

'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014 ''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb. Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.

'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019 ''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.

'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m ''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016 ''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground. 

[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]

'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014 ''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux). PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).

'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015 ''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).

'''The Budgie {Bites Back}''' (VS 4c) 20 mtrs PR: G° New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018 ''
Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.

'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.

'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b) 20 mtrs PR: G New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018 ''
Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.

'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015 ''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.

'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14 ''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top. 

===Southside===

Southside Topo:
[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''

[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''

'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14 ''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.

'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15 ''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.

'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required) ''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015 ''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.

'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014 ''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.

'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015 ''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.

'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.

'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015 ''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!

'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.

'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.

==Sutton to Baily==

From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is

===Warning Sign Slab===

Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88

'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.

'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb.. 

===Red Rock===

''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6

''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''

'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..

''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''

'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..

''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''

'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002. ''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear.. '''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up.. '''Toasted''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.. 

Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.

'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb.. '''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m) 4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb. '''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m) ''Jim Cooper?, January 2002 ''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile. 

===Martello Wall===

''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8

100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.

[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]

'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c) ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020 ''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts. 

'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m) ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi ''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays. 

===Sheep Hole Cliffs===

Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.

The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.

'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem. 

'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb. 

'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb up the front of this promontory. 

'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''

'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound. 

===Ayton’s Cave===

''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA

A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.

===Mussel Cove (with Block)===

''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89

After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.

The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.

The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.

There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).

'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001 ''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.

===Rusty Wall===

''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7

''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one established route "Interdimensional Fucker" is found here .''

[[File:Rusty.png|frameless|799x799px]]

'''Crumbling Castle E4 6a '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021 ''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route. Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.

'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m''' ''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018 ''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.

'''Interstellar Hugger E3 5c '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021 ''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour. Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.

'''Interdimensional Cable E3 6a '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021''' '''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.

'''Interdimensional Nutter E2 5c '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021 ''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.

 '''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''

===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96

This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.

On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.

'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''

''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''

''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''

===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===

Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6

Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.

From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.

Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.

Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.

Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.

On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).

==Baily to Howth Village==

There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.

===Webs Castle Rock===

Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7

[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]

Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.

===Puck's Rocks===

Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9

From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;

Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539

===Kilrock Quarry===

Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6

Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m? The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.

[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]

===Cat Rock===

Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA

Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.

Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.

'''Fizzecca''' (HVS/E1 5a/5b?) ''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016 ''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad. 

'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?) ''Chris acDhuibhne 2019 ''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended. 

[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]

===Balscadden Bay===

Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.

==Inland==

===Ben Howth Outcrops===

In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.

Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.

· The pillar is Hard Severe, · The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b, · The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe, · The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe, · The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct! All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001

Just above is a north west facing outcrop.

Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.

About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.

To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.

File:Rusty.png

2021-06-23T10:41:07Z

Daveh:

Rusty

Howth Head

2021-06-23T10:32:04Z

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */ New Routes

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]

Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.

Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.

The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.

In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest. ''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.

The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!

While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.

Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.

<display_map zoom="13">
53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
</display_map>

==Deer Park Crag==

[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]

'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.

'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below). For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.

'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.

''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)

Climbs listed left to right.
[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]

===Mayan Rock===

''Mayan Rock Topo:''
[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]

The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:

'''Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees. 

===Maol Wall===

[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]

Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.

'''Grainne (HVS? 4c) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.

'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall, beware the loose block below the rhododendron stumps.
[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 

===Pine Tree Ledge===

The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.

''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]

'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.

'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.

'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''This climb is found in the center of the "Pine Tree Ledge" area. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
[[File:FireCertStart.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.

'''Navicula (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.

 [[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.

'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.

===Middle Yurt===
A section of the crag with easier angled slabs and ledges between "pine tree ledge" and "the northside".

'''Midshift Madness (S 4a) 23m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty''

Starts three meters to the left of "The Gabhar", once the first ledge is reached trend left until the steeper slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the groove to the right of the arete.

'''The Gabhar (S 4a) 22m'''

Starts on the right side of "middle yurt" just to the right of the rhododendron tree growing at the base, climb the obvious gully to the first ledge, then continue up the gully towards the crux where the face steepens before another ledge, from the ledge tend right to the short corner, climb this to top out.

===Northside===

''Northside Topo (left end):''

[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it. '''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.

'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle. PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.

'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m '''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018 ''
Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .

'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015 ''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish. 

[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Nicky Place''' (Diff) ''Ian Christie – June 2015 ''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.

'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m ''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015 ''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here. Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).

'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014 ''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb. Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.

'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019 ''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.

'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m ''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016 ''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground. 

[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]

'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014 ''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux). PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).

'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015 ''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).

'''The Budgie {Bites Back}''' (VS 4c) 20 mtrs PR: G° New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018 ''
Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.

'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.

'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b) 20 mtrs PR: G New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018 ''
Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.

'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015 ''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.

'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14 ''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top. 

===Southside===

Southside Topo:
[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''

[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''

'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14 ''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.

'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15 ''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.

'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required) ''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015 ''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.

'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014 ''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.

'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015 ''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.

'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.

'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015 ''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!

'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.

'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.

==Sutton to Baily==

From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is

===Warning Sign Slab===

Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88

'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.

'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb.. 

===Red Rock===

''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6

''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''

'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..

''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''

'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..

''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''

'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002. ''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear.. '''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up.. '''Toasted''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.. 

Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.

'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb.. '''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m) 4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb. '''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m) ''Jim Cooper?, January 2002 ''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile. 

===Martello Wall===

''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8

100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.

[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]

'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c) ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020 ''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts. 

'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m) ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi ''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays. 

===Sheep Hole Cliffs===

Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.

The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.

'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem. 

'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb. 

'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb up the front of this promontory. 

'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''

'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound. 

===Ayton’s Cave===

''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA

A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.

===Mussel Cove (with Block)===

''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89

After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.

The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.

The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.

There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).

'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001 ''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.

===Rusty Wall===

''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7

''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one established route "Interdimensional Fucker" is found here .''

'''Crumbling Castle E4 6a '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021 ''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route. Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.

'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m''' ''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018 ''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.

'''Interstellar Hugger E3 5c '''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021 ''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour. Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.

'''Interdimensional Cable E3 6a '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021''' '''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.

'''Interdimensional Nutter E2 5c '''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021 ''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.

 [[File:InterdimensionalF.jpeg|center|400px|InterdimensionalF.jpeg]]

 '''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''

===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96

This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.

On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.

'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''

''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''

''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''

===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===

Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6

Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.

From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.

Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.

Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.

Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.

On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).

==Baily to Howth Village==

There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.

===Webs Castle Rock===

Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7

[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]

Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.

===Puck's Rocks===

Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9

From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;

Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539

===Kilrock Quarry===

Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6

Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m? The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.

[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]

===Cat Rock===

Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA

Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.

Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.

'''Fizzecca''' (HVS/E1 5a/5b?) ''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016 ''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad. 

'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?) ''Chris acDhuibhne 2019 ''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended. 

[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]

===Balscadden Bay===

Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.

==Inland==

===Ben Howth Outcrops===

In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.

Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.

· The pillar is Hard Severe, · The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b, · The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe, · The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe, · The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct! All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001

Just above is a north west facing outcrop.

Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.

About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.

To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.

Oughtdarra

2021-06-16T12:57:54Z

Daveh: Reverted edits by Daveh (talk) to last revision by Barry watts

==Introduction==

The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!

[[File:Final Oughtdarra.jpg|600px|Final Oughtdarra.jpg]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area

[[File:IMG 2677.JPG|600px|IMG 2677.JPG]]

==Northern Buttress==

[[File:Northern Buttress.jpg|600px|File:Northern Buttress.jpg]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack in the middle to the ledge. Climb up the centre of the wall above to a thin crack.

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017 ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VDiff
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

Right of the descent gully there are two corners.

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013 ''Start 2m's left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' ''HS B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' 14m VD
Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m's left of Arnhem

[[File:Northern central area.jpg|600px|File:Northern central area.jpg]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5 m's right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. HVS 5b 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' 18m HS ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019 ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5 m's right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.

[[File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m S ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protrouding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to finish over a small overhang.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3 m's to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes.
Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S,
The climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN ''' 12m E3 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m's right of Meridian,
below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m's. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face
above via cracks and small ledges.

100 m's further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==

[[File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5 m's (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang
at 2 m's height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang
3 m's further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge.
Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m's further on there is

==Goat Buttress==

[[File:Goat Buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand
crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner. continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand
crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m's right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge
and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100 m's further south there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==

[[File:Canyon buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 10m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 13m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m's left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.

[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.

[[File:pre_op.jpg]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' 15m VD * ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête,
Climb the clean cracked wall 1 m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 15m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==

[[File:Central Section1 Left Hand.jpg|600px|Central Section1 Left Hand]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn. ''Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.

[[File:Central Area Right Hand.jpg|600px|Central Area Right Hand]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.

[[File:An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg|600px|An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang.
Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder,
finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012. ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.

[[File:An Fear Breige Central.jpg|600px|Fear Breige Central.jpg]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.

[[File:DSC02187.JPG|400px|File:DSC02187.JPG]]

First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' VS 4c ** ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.

[[File:Even more an fear breige.jpg|600px|Even more an fear breige.jpg]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3 metres and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and corner 3m's right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m's left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.

[[File:Capture (2).JPG|600px|File:Capture (2).JPG]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E2 5c ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m right of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the
top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.

[[File:Areaupdate.jpg|600px|File:Areaupdate.jpg]]

Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

==='''Crumlin Wall'''===
[[File:Husavik.jpg|600px|File:Husavik.jpg]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th Octoer 2020. ''Climb the crack 3 m's left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3 m"s right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

==='''Swampstone Wall'''===
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature.

[[File:Ss.jpg|600px|File:Ss.jpg]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.

It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall..

[[File:Thumbnail central.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail central.jpg]]

'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP''' VS 4c * ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' HS * ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1 m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''99''' HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 5th June 2020.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4 m's right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face right 2 m's of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 10m's right of Chasing Cars.

'''CITY OF ASHES''' HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 4th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left,

'''CITY OF BONES''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 4th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarily finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 25m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:Bb.jpg|600px|File:Bb.jpg]]

Further Right and South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''WILDSTYLE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|frameless]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, (alt leads) 5th June 2021. '' A well protected fun outing.

1 10 m VD 100m's right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.

2 14 m HS Traverse 15m's left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..

300m's South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

'''Beagle Walls'''

'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack on the left.

[[File:Clone wars.jpg|600px|File:Clone wars.jpg]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI S'' '''''<nowiki/>''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|left|thumb|696x696px]]

[[File:Left hand apr.JPG|600px|File:Left hand apr.JPG]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Approx half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m's right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove
2m’s right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZO''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018 ''6m's right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall
traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the right facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|600px|File:Capture2apr2019.JPG]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

[[File:Faster.PNG|400px|File:Faster.PNG]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m’s right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 11m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018 ''3m's in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {11m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.

[[File:Thumbnail1.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail1.jpg]]

'''180''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''DOGS LIFE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m's right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

Further South and right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|none|thumb|559x559px]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m's left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5 m's, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m's and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020 ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m's right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m's right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m's right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''Fir Bolg''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20 metres up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''Tír na Phúca''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

[[File:Thumbnail100.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail100.jpg]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3 m's right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress.
Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.

[[File:Capturecod.JPG|700px|File:Capturecod.JPG|]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

[[File:Grapes.jpg|600px|File:Grapes.jpg]]

[[File:LNB Grapes.jpg|600px|Leaba na hAon Bhó left wall]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt

'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.

[[File:Jack.jpg|600px|File:Jack.jpg]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 14m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville and Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butress.

'''THE BALROG''' E1 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,

[[File:LNB HS.jpg|600px|File:LNB HS.jpg]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

[[File:LNB WWW.jpg|600px|File:LNB WWW.jpg]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

[[File:LNB Cave.jpg|600px|File:LNB Cave.jpg]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start a few metre's left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:

[[File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg|600px|File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''': E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''': 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT''': HVS 4c/5a ** ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN''': VS 4c* ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' E2 5c** ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared
for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

Right of NONO is a small bay with a prominent finger crack cross at its centre. There are three routes in the bay.

[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019 ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.

[[File:Mitch.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic1]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010. 
Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S 
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b 
Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S 
S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D 
L Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017. 
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D 
Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

[[File:Darragh.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic2]]

'''POP''' VD 
Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS 
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017. 
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a 
Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' - HVS 5a 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010. 
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)

[[File:TheReach.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic3]]

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS''' 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above

'''Blood on the rack''' HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The Crack just right of '''All Right Now.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.

[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|600x600px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''Mobility Issues''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100 metres to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3 metres into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Oughtdarra

2021-06-16T12:56:40Z

Daveh: Fixed some line breaks.

==Introduction==

The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!

[[File:Final Oughtdarra.jpg|600px|Final Oughtdarra.jpg]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area

[[File:IMG 2677.JPG|600px|IMG 2677.JPG]]

==Northern Buttress==

[[File:Northern Buttress.jpg|600px|File:Northern Buttress.jpg]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack in the middle to the ledge. Climb up the centre of the wall above to a thin crack.

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017 ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VDiff
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

Right of the descent gully there are two corners.

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013 ''Start 2m's left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' ''HS B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' 14m VD
Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m's left of Arnhem

[[File:Northern central area.jpg|600px|File:Northern central area.jpg]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5 m's right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. HVS 5b 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' 18m HS ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019 ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5 m's right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.

[[File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m S ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protrouding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to finish over a small overhang.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3 m's to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes.
Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S,
The climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN ''' 12m E3 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m's right of Meridian,
below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m's. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face
above via cracks and small ledges.

100 m's further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==

[[File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5 m's (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang
at 2 m's height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang
3 m's further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge.
Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m's further on there is

==Goat Buttress==

[[File:Goat Buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand
crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner. continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand
crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m's right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge
and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100 m's further south there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==

[[File:Canyon buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 10m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 13m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m's left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.

[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.

[[File:pre_op.jpg]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' 15m VD * ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête,
Climb the clean cracked wall 1 m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 15m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==

[[File:Central Section1 Left Hand.jpg|600px|Central Section1 Left Hand]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn. ''Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.

[[File:Central Area Right Hand.jpg|600px|Central Area Right Hand]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.

[[File:An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg|600px|An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang.
Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder,
finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012. ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.

[[File:An Fear Breige Central.jpg|600px|Fear Breige Central.jpg]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.

[[File:DSC02187.JPG|400px|File:DSC02187.JPG]]

First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' VS 4c ** ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.

[[File:Even more an fear breige.jpg|600px|Even more an fear breige.jpg]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3 metres and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and corner 3m's right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m's left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.

[[File:Capture (2).JPG|600px|File:Capture (2).JPG]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E2 5c ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m right of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the
top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.

[[File:Areaupdate.jpg|600px|File:Areaupdate.jpg]]

Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

==='''Crumlin Wall'''===
[[File:Husavik.jpg|600px|File:Husavik.jpg]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th Octoer 2020. ''Climb the crack 3 m's left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3 m"s right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

[[File:Ss.jpg|600px|File:Ss.jpg]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

[[File:Thumbnail central.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail central.jpg]]

'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP''' VS 4c * ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' HS * ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1 m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''99''' HS 4b ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 5th June 2020. ''So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4 m's right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face right 2 m's of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 7m's right of Chasing Cars.

'''CITY OF ASHES''' HS 4b ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 4th June 2021. ''Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left,

'''CITY OF BONES''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 4th June 2021. ''Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarily finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 25m S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021. ''Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:Bb.jpg|600px|File:Bb.jpg]]

Further Right and South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of Don’t call mee…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top.
A hand crack on the left and on the head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''WILDSTYLE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5th June 2021. ''300m's South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

==='''Beagle Walls'''===
'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack on the left.

[[File:Clone wars.jpg|600px|File:Clone wars.jpg]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI S'' '''''<nowiki/>''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|left|thumb|696x696px]]

[[File:Left hand apr.JPG|600px|File:Left hand apr.JPG]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Approx half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m's right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove
2m’s right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZO''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018 ''6m's right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall
traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the right facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|600px|File:Capture2apr2019.JPG]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

[[File:Faster.PNG|400px|File:Faster.PNG]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m’s right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 11m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018 ''3m's in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {11m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.

[[File:Thumbnail1.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail1.jpg]]

'''180''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''DOGS LIFE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021. ''5m's right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

Further South and right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|none|thumb|559x559px]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m's left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021. ''5m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5 m's, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m's and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020 ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m's right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m's right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m's right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''Fir Bolg''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20 metres up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''Tír na Phúca''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

[[File:Thumbnail100.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail100.jpg]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3 m's right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress.
Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.

[[File:Capturecod.JPG|700px|File:Capturecod.JPG|]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

[[File:Grapes.jpg|600px|File:Grapes.jpg]]

[[File:LNB Grapes.jpg|600px|Leaba na hAon Bhó left wall]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt

'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.

[[File:Jack.jpg|600px|File:Jack.jpg]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 14m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville and Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butress.

'''THE BALROG''' E1 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,

[[File:LNB HS.jpg|600px|File:LNB HS.jpg]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

[[File:LNB WWW.jpg|600px|File:LNB WWW.jpg]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

[[File:LNB Cave.jpg|600px|File:LNB Cave.jpg]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start a few metre's left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:

[[File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg|600px|File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''': E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''': 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT''': HVS 4c/5a ** ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN''': VS 4c* ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' E2 5c** ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared
for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

Right of NONO is a small bay with a prominent finger crack cross at its centre. There are three routes in the bay.

[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019 ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.

[[File:Mitch.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic1]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010. 
Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S 
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b 
Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S 
S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D 
L Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017. 
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D 
Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

[[File:Darragh.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic2]]

'''POP''' VD 
Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS 
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017. 
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a 
Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' - HVS 5a 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010. 
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)

[[File:TheReach.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic3]]

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS''' 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above

'''Blood on the rack''' HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The Crack just right of '''All Right Now.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.

[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|600x600px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''Mobility Issues''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100 metres to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3 metres into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Scalp na gCapail

2021-06-14T13:52:56Z

Daveh: Moved "direct start" to after the original route description.

'''This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Take a minor road on the left after 3Km signed for Cooney L6102. This leads, in a short distance, to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach [[Happy Valli]] crag.'''

'''The original routes are focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, however a lot of cleaning and development has been done recently on the left side opening up several new good routes. Grades range from S to E2.'''

'''Note: The numbers on the topo photo below don't correspond to the numbers in the list of routes. No. 1 in the photo is More Street Trader (no. 9 in the list), no. 2 in the photo is Polish Paddy (no. 10 in the list), and so on. There isn't a photo showing routes 1 to 8, although you can see where Under the Carpet starts - up the slanted rectangular block between two fence posts to the left of Moore Street Trader (the fence posts aren't there any more).'''

[[Image:ScalpNaGcapail.jpg|800x800px|alt=]]

1. '''Santa Maria de Vison''' 20m HS (4a) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)'' 
The route takes the left hand side of the wall. 
Climb square cut ledges on the left-hand side of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.

2. '''Garda Síochána''' 20m HS (4a) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H Doherty. 13/05/2019'' 
Start 2m right of "Santa Maria De Vision" on good steps moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where wall steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up small bank. Very good protection and wide variety of holds

2a. '''Dreadnought''' 25m HS 4a 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 15th April 2021)'' 
Left of Juliana there is an obvious corner that the route follows. For the first few metres the profile of the corner is to the right. Climb this (crux) to where the profile of the corner changes to the left. Follow the rest of the corner at V Diff using jugs and small ledges to where a step left can be made onto the arete just below the top. Good protection throughout.

3. '''Juliana''' 25m VS (4c) 
''( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)'' 
A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).

3(a) '''Lockdown Lunacy''' 25m E2 (5c) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
A few metres right of Juliana there is a large ledge at 2 metres. Gain the ledge.
Midway along the ledge, climb the overhang with difficulty using the thin crack to gain good stance above. Climb the wall to a detached flake at mid height (thread runner). Continue to stance below the righthand end of overhang. Climb this, strenuously, to top and belay.
Good protection throughout.

4. '''Lavia''' 25m E1(5b) 
''(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018) ''
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top. 
'''Direct start''': At the righthand end of the big scoop climb the groove for a few metres. Step right onto the arete at the pocket (no 4 friend). Continue up to the stance below faint crack. (M. Daly, B. Foley - 13/06/21)

'''''3m to the right of this is'''''

5. '''Firestarter''', 20m E1(5b) * 
''C Ó Fiannachta, J Gilmore. 13/05/2019'' 
This route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves using small flat holds to surmount this to good holds and rest. The fire has been started. Finish straight up slabby wall.

6. '''Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach''' 20m VS (4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 1/5/2019'' 
Start 2m right of Firestarter at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of human size notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Arrange protection and make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right!), then enjoy a good rest. Finish straight up the middle of the slabby wall.

'''''2m to the right directly behind the tree lies..'''''

7. '''An Domhan Nua''', 20m, S(4a) 
''C. Ó Fiannachta, H. Doherty. 27/04/2019'' 
Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top.

8. '''Under the Carpet''' 20m HS(4c) 
''C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017'' 
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.

'''''The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by'''''

9. (1 on photo) '''Moore Street Trader''' 25m HVS (5a) * 
''(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.

10. (2 on photo) '''Polish Paddy''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay

11. (3 on photo) '''Ganger Gaffney''' 25m E2 (5b) 
''(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)'' 
Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay

'''''The rightmost crack line is taken by'''''

12. (4 on photo) '''Tweezer''' 25m VS (4c) 
''(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)'' 
Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay

13. (5 on photo) '''God of Strathyre''' 13m E1 (5b) 
''(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)'' 
On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Do not belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off as it’s dead. Better now to finish up more easily on the cleaned groove on left or further left by joining one of the previous routes.

14. (7 on photo) '''Postie Pornstar''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)'' 
The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.

'''''Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:'''''

15. '''Hanging Tree Chimney''' 25m Severe (3a) 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.

16. '''Tadpole Creek''' 25m V Diff 
''(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)'' 
Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.

16(a) ''' D+2''' 20m Severe (4a) 
''(Martin Daly, Brendan Proctor - 8th June 2020)'' 
Route takes the arete on the LHS of wall.
Climb the diagonal leftward trending crack to a pedestal below and right of the arete. Move up and across left to the arete which is followed to top.

'''''Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after 2m. The leftmost is taken by'''''

17. (9 on photo) '''Teach Urlar''' 17m HS (4b) 
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007) 
Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay

'''''The adjoining crack is taken by'''''

18. (10 on photo) '''Floozy in the Jacuzzi''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.

'''''One metre further right is another crack…….'''''

19. (11 on photo) '''Crack Cocaine''' 17m VS (4c) 
''(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)'' 
Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.

Oughtdarra

2021-06-10T10:40:15Z

Daveh: /* Beagle Walls */

==Introduction==

The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!

[[File:Final Oughtdarra.jpg|600px|Final Oughtdarra.jpg]]

View of Northern Buttress from Central Area

[[File:IMG 2677.JPG|600px|IMG 2677.JPG]]

==Northern Buttress==

[[File:Northern Buttress.jpg|600px|File:Northern Buttress.jpg]]

This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.

'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a ''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009. ''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.

'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S ''Cliff Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/2017. ''Climb the wide crack in the middle to the ledge. Climb up the centre of the wall above to a thin crack.

'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m VD ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.

The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.

'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS ''K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. ''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.

'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017 ''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.

'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VDiff
 ''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017. ''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start

Right of the descent gully there are two corners.

'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m VD ''K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013 ''Start 2m's left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.

'''Direct finish''' ''HS B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015. ''Climb directly up fist sized crack.

'''HULALOOPER''' 14m VD
Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m's left of Arnhem

[[File:Northern central area.jpg|600px|File:Northern central area.jpg]]

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.

'''ARNHEM''' 16m VS 4c ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''5 m's right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.

'''Direct Start''' Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. HVS 5b 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.

'''BALLYNALACKEN''' 20m VS 4c ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007. ''Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' 18m HS ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011. ''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019 ''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish.

'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Takes the high steep corner 5 m's right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.

[[File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:NoRHS Sept 2017.jpg]]

'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m S ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protrouding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to finish over a small overhang.

'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011. ''Start in a niche, 3 m's to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS ''Emma Glanville, July 2005. ''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017. ''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes.
Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,
move right up a shallow corner to the top

The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S,
The climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!

There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.

'''MERIDIAN ''' 12m E3 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight). ''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017. ''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m's right of Meridian,
below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m's. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face
above via cracks and small ledges.

100 m's further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.

==Builders Buttress==

[[File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg|600px|File:Builders Sept 2017.jpg]]

This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.

'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5 m's (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top

'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.

'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017. ''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.

'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010. ''About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.

'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010. ''Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.

'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015. ''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang
at 2 m's height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang
3 m's further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge.
Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.

5m's further on there is

==Goat Buttress==

[[File:Goat Buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand
crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner. continuing up the corner to the top.

'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and
overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand
crack line directly to the top.

'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''3m's right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge
and scramble leftwards along this to finish.

About 100 m's further south there is Canyon Buttress.

==Canyon Buttress==

[[File:Canyon buttress.jpg|800px]]

'''ROCKERY''' 10m D ''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013. ''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.

'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016. ''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.

'''PRE OP''' 13m HS 4a ''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014. ''2m's left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.

[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG]]

'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a ''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013. ''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.

[[File:pre_op.jpg]]

'''GRAND CANYON''' 15m VD * ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. ''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête,
Climb the clean cracked wall 1 m left of this arête directly to the top.

'''BONANZA''' 15m S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. ''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.

Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.

==Central Area==

[[File:Central Section1 Left Hand.jpg|600px|Central Section1 Left Hand]]

'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c ''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a ''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012. ''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.

'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS ''Malcolm O'Beirn. ''Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.

[[File:Central Area Right Hand.jpg|600px|Central Area Right Hand]]

'''TWO WATER MELONS''' 10m VS 4c ''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005. ''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.

'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b ''Paul Daly, July 2005. ''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove

'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b ''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012. ''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.

'''THEX MHEX''' HS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017. ''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.

'''REX HEX LIZ''' 15m HS 4b ''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. ''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.

'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D ''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999. ''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.

==An Fear Bréige==
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.

Routes are listed from left to right West to East.

[[File:An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg|600px|An Fear Breige Far Left.jpg]]

'''RAM RAID''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang.
Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder,
finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.

'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The left hand crack

'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c ''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. ''The right hand crack

'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a ''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012. ''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.

[[File:An Fear Breige Central.jpg|600px|Fear Breige Central.jpg]]

'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.

'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.

'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. ''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right
and finish up the cracked wall above.

[[File:DSC02187.JPG|400px|File:DSC02187.JPG]]

First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''

'''LONE STAR''' VS 4c ** ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016. ''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.

[[File:Even more an fear breige.jpg|600px|Even more an fear breige.jpg]]

'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. ''20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,
Traverse left for 3 metres and finish up the flake crack.

'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS ''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.

'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. ''Climb the wall and corner 3m's right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.

'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c ''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m's left of Baby Lotion.

'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a ''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993. ''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

200m east of An Fear Breige there is.

==Lysacht's Cave area==

The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation. There was once a large ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.

[[File:Capture (2).JPG|600px|File:Capture (2).JPG]]

'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977. ''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a ''N. Diamond, Spring 1987. ''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977. ''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c ''I. Ryan, 1984. ''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. ''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E2 5c ''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988. ''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.

'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c ''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977. ''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977. ''There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m right of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b ''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977. ''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the
top.

==Leacht na nAmadan==

This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km's further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m's after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs.

[[File:Areaupdate.jpg|600px|File:Areaupdate.jpg]]

Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.

==='''Crumlin Wall'''===
[[File:Husavik.jpg|600px|File:Husavik.jpg]]

'''EASY PEASY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete

'''AN GEATA BAN''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th Octoer 2020. ''Climb the crack 3 m's left of the corner

'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS

''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang.

'''HUSAVIK''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the corner.

'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Start 3 m"s right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.

[[File:Ss.jpg|600px|File:Ss.jpg]]

'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.

[[File:Thumbnail central.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail central.jpg]]

'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5th June 2021. ''

Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.

'''JOHNNY JUMP UP''' VS 4c * ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.

'''EMERALD''' HS * ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. ''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1 m right of the arete.

'''CHASING CARS''' VD ''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020. ''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.

'''99''' HS 4b

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 5th June 2020.''

So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4 m's right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face right 2 m's of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.

'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020, ''Climb the chimney 7m's right of Chasing Cars.

'''CITY OF ASHES''' HS 4b

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 4th June 2021.''

Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left,

'''CITY OF BONES''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 4th June 2021.''

Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarily finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''

'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 25m S

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''

Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.

==='''Brandon’s Block'''===
[[File:Bb.jpg|600px|File:Bb.jpg]]

Further Right and South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.

'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB.

'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, 10/7/2020. ''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.

'''VIOLENT LOVE''' VS 4c ''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019. ''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m’s right of Don’t call mee…., take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top.
A hand crack on the left and on the head wall will come in handy higher up.

'''WILDSTYLE''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019. ''Climb the overhanging corner above BB by clever use of the slab on the right.

[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|frameless]]

'''CATTLE CRUSH''' HS 4b 
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 5th June 2021. '' 
300m's South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.

==='''Beagle Walls'''===
'''NICK OF TIME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack on the left.

[[File:Clone wars.jpg|600px|File:Clone wars.jpg]]

'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The left hand crack on the buttress.

'''CLONE WARS''' ''S Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''The right hand crack on the buttress

'''THE JEDI S'' '''''<nowiki/>''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020. ''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|left|thumb|696x696px]]

[[File:Left hand apr.JPG|600px|File:Left hand apr.JPG]]

'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 ''Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Approx half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).

'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner.

'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019. ''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.

'''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m's right of the corner

'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' VS/HVS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove
2m’s right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top.

'''BONZO''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018 ''6m's right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall
traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the right facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab.

'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' HS 4b ''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.

[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|600px|File:Capture2apr2019.JPG]]

'''STRAY DOGS''' HVS 5a ''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019. ''Take the only crack, 2-3m left of the pillar block. Move up the crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above. Satisfying.

[[File:Faster.PNG|400px|File:Faster.PNG]]

First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''

'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018. ''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.

'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S ''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019. ''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.

'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. ''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.

'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019. ''Thin crack line 3m’s right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''.

'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 11m VS 4c ''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018 ''3m's in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {11m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.

'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' VS 4c ''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Climb the twin cracks 3m’s right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.

[[File:Thumbnail1.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail1.jpg]]

'''180''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.

'''DOGS LIFE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top

'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' HS ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019. ''Take the right hand crack line to the top

'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab.

'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m's right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this.

Further South and right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|none|thumb|559x559px]]
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''Thin crack 2m's left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.

'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress

'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''

5m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5 m's, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m's and climb diagonally rightwards to the top.

'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. ''8m's right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top.

'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' S ''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018. ''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress. 1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top.

'''Family Fun Variation:''' ''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly 12/9/2020 ''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one

'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S ''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018. ''Start 2m's right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' 1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge. 2 7m Climb the crack 2m's right of the v shaped chimney. 3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. 3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.

'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m's right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.

'''Fir Bolg''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020. ''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.

The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20 metres up a grassy boulder strewn slope.

'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge.

'''BACK TO ARAN''' S ''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020. ''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above.

'''Tír na Phúca''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020. ''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top.

[[File:Thumbnail100.jpg|600px|File:Thumbnail100.jpg]]

'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests. ''Finger crack and cracked wall to top.

'''POWER SEIZURE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. ''Start 3 m's right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.

'''BLISTER''' HS ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. ''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish.

'''CHASM RAVE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, 28th September 2018. ''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.

'''ROCK AND ROLL''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

'''YOUNGLING''' HVS 5b ''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011. ''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

'''THE ULSTERMAN''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. ''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.

==Leaba na hAon Bhó==

[[File:180618.jpg|1000px|thumb|centre|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014]]

The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress.
Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.

Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.

[[File:Capturecod.JPG|700px|File:Capturecod.JPG|]]

'''WOUNDED KNEE''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''The corner on the left hand side of the face.

'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' D ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12 August 2017. ''Climb the central crack.

200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.

'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12 August 2017. ''Easy chimney.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

[[File:Grapes.jpg|600px|File:Grapes.jpg]]

[[File:LNB Grapes.jpg|600px|Leaba na hAon Bhó left wall]]

'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018. ''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step at start and easier thereafter.

'''COMIC TIMING''' HS ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.

'''CORONER'S CORNER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt

'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b ''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011. ''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 12m VD ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018. ''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.

[[File:Jack.jpg|600px|File:Jack.jpg]]

'''FANTAPANTS''' 14m S ''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012. ''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.

'''STRIPPER''' D ''Terry Sommerville and Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020. ''Between Fantapants and Slab of Heineken. Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of lightning strike. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.

'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending
slightly leftwards

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the lightning crack butress.

'''THE BALROG''' E1 5c ** ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011. ''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS ''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011. ''Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,

[[File:LNB HS.jpg|600px|File:LNB HS.jpg]]

'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.

About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind.

'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.

'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011. ''This is 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.

[[File:LNB WWW.jpg|600px|File:LNB WWW.jpg]]

'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' HS 4b ''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011. ''Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' S ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011. ''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. ''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019. ''Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete.

[[File:LNB Cave.jpg|600px|File:LNB Cave.jpg]]

'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D ''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005. ''Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

'''SACRED COW''' D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011. ''Follows the rib 1m right of Stall the Digger to the top

'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S ''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018. ''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route!
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.

'''DONDAGE ''' D ''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015. ''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent

'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012. ''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.

'''DO BOTHER''' VD ''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017. ''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake.

'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017. ''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to Golden Circle at about 3m.

'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011. ''Start a few metre's left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS ''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012. ''Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.

From left to right:

[[File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg|600px|File:Leaba na haon bho central.jpg]]

'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''': E1 5a ''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009. ''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''': 6a HighBall Problem ''Colm Shannon, 2009. ''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

'''FACE PLANT''': HVS 4c/5a ** ''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005. First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009'' Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

'''COCO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.

'''CRUBEEN''': VS 4c* ''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011. ''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' E2 5c** ''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017. ''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained

'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b ''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011. ''Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!

'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared
for a strenuous exit to finish.

'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.

'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011. ''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.

'''Variation: Direct Finish''' HS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011. ''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

'''NONO''': E1 5b* ''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011. ''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

Right of NONO is a small bay with a prominent finger crack cross at its centre. There are three routes in the bay.

[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg]]

'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD ''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.

'''THE KNACK''' HS 4c ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.

'''SWAMPY JOCKS''' VD ''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017. ''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.

'''THE KID, HEH''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019 ''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.

'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S ''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017. ''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.

[[File:Mitch.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic1]]

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

'''TOILET TIME''' VD 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010. 
Climb the left corner

'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S 
Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.

'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b 
Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Follow middle crack.

'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S 
S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017. 
Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.

'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D 
L Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017. 
Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.

'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D 
Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.

[[File:Darragh.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic2]]

'''POP''' VD 
Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017. 
Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.

'''GLEBE''' VS 
Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017. 
Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.

'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a 
Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010. 
Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

'''SOFT LANDING''' - HVS 5a 
Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010. 
Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)

[[File:TheReach.jpg|600px|Oughtdarra topo pic3]]

'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a ''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010. ''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.

'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c ''Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy, 30/07/2011. ''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.

'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS''' 5a ''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012. ''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.

'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS ''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17. ''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above

'''Blood on the rack''' HS ''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021. ''The Crack just right of '''All Right Now.''' Follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.

[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|600x600px]]

Dave on Blood on the Rack HS

'''Mobility Issues''' VS ''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021. ''100 metres to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3 metres into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!

[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|450x450px]]

Line of Mobility Issues VS

Ballynahown

Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra

Ailladie

2021-06-03T14:27:15Z

Daveh: /* Introduction */

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map type=satellite>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

[[File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
142 The Happiness that Hurts 
143 Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel 
144 Black Widow 
145 Forever Young 
146 Ailleadóir 
147 Sea Bird 
148 Gallipoli]]

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

[[File:Vein.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
149 The Vein 
150 Reprieve 
151 The Wound That Never Heals 
152 Splash Down]]

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

[[File:Splash.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
152 Splash Down 
153 Barracuda 
154 Doolin Rouge 
155 Calanus 
156 Crepuscular Ray 
157 Great Balls of Fire 
158 White Witch 
159 Black Magic 
160 Salt Rope 
161 Glanced a Snatch 
162 String of Balls]]

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

[[File:Footloose.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
163 Foot Loose 
164 Aria 
165 Hiphop 
166 Stevo 
167 Two Hand Reel 
168 The Littlest Hobo]]

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.

Ailladie

2021-06-03T14:16:15Z

Daveh: Boulder Wall Topo

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

[[File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
142 The Happiness that Hurts 
143 Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel 
144 Black Widow 
145 Forever Young 
146 Ailleadóir 
147 Sea Bird 
148 Gallipoli]]

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

[[File:Vein.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
149 The Vein 
150 Reprieve 
151 The Wound That Never Heals 
152 Splash Down]]

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

[[File:Splash.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
152 Splash Down 
153 Barracuda 
154 Doolin Rouge 
155 Calanus 
156 Crepuscular Ray 
157 Great Balls of Fire 
158 White Witch 
159 Black Magic 
160 Salt Rope 
161 Glanced a Snatch 
162 String of Balls]]

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

[[File:Footloose.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
163 Foot Loose 
164 Aria 
165 Hiphop 
166 Stevo 
167 Two Hand Reel 
168 The Littlest Hobo]]

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.

File:Footloose.jpg

2021-06-03T14:14:18Z

Daveh:

Footloose

Ailladie

2021-06-03T14:06:11Z

Daveh: Boulder Wall topo

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

[[File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
142 The Happiness that Hurts 
143 Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel 
144 Black Widow 
145 Forever Young 
146 Ailleadóir 
147 Sea Bird 
148 Gallipoli]]

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

[[File:Vein.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
149 The Vein 
150 Reprieve 
151 The Wound That Never Heals 
152 Splash Down]]

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

[[File:Splash.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
152 Splash Down 
153 Barracuda 
154 Doolin Rouge 
155 Calanus 
156 Crepuscular Ray 
157 Great Balls of Fire 
158 White Witch 
159 Black Magic 
160 Salt Rope 
161 Glanced a Snatch 
162 String of Balls]]

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.

File:Splash.jpg

2021-06-03T14:03:24Z

Daveh:

Splash

Ailladie

2021-06-03T13:56:08Z

Daveh: The Vein Topo

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

[[File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
142 The Happiness that Hurts 
143 Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel 
144 Black Widow 
145 Forever Young 
146 Ailleadóir 
147 Sea Bird 
148 Gallipoli]]

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

[[File:Vein.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
149 The Vein 
150 Reprieve 
151 The Wound That Never Heals 
152 Splash Down]]

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.

File:Vein.jpg

2021-06-03T13:54:12Z

Daveh:

Vein

Ailladie

2021-06-03T13:50:36Z

Daveh: Space Monkeys Topo

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

[[File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
142 The Happiness that Hurts 
143 Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel 
144 Black Widow 
145 Forever Young 
146 Ailleadóir 
147 Sea Bird 
148 Gallipoli]]

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.

File:SpaceMonkeys.jpg

2021-06-03T13:48:12Z

Daveh:

SpaceMonkeys

Ailladie

2021-06-03T13:42:05Z

Daveh: Conger Topo

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. ''Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a ''E. Cooper, September 1981.'' A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.'' Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77'' The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b ''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.'' About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77. ''Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS ''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012. ''Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m ''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72 ''This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b ''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77. ''Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001 ''Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b ''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72. ''Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76. ''There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c ''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001 ''Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S ''B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent). ''(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D ''J. O Connor, 7/8/72. ''This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a ''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77. ''Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76. ''This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.
[[File:Ailladie1.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
13. O'Connor's Corner 
14. Lisdoonfarout 
15. Altered Images 
18. Ground Control 
19. Phoenix 
20. Jumbo]]

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a ''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76. ''Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b ''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95. ''The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85. ''An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976 ''A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979. ''As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982. ''Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

'''Direct start''' 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985. ''Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985. ''Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.
[[File:Ailladie2.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
23. Jet 
24. Spifire 
25. Finale 
26. Orca 
27. The Ocean 
29. Undertow]]

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77. ''Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85. ''Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977. ''This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c ''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05 ''The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85. ''A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.
[[File:Ailladie3.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
30. Dead Ringer 
31. Dagger 
32. Mucher 
33. Angel 
34. Battery Hen 
35. Atomic Rooster 
37. Preacher-Heckler]]

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85. ''Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a ''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77. ''The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c ''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76. ''Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84. ''This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. ''Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b ''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. ''A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a ''D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. ''Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b ''B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. ''Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c ''M. Manson, June 1985. ''A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

[[File:Genesis.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
39 Genesis 
41 Genocide 
42 An Puka 
43 Bonnáin Buí 
44 Substantial Doubts 
45 Nutrocker 
46 Up in Smoke 
47 Saddleback Sow]]

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c ''N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. ''Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. ''A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a ''S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. ''Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a ''Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) ''Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. ''A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. ''Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 ''This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b ''Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 ''Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a ''C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. ''A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b ''H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 ''Re-climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020 Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b ''J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. ''Re-climbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

[[File:Amharsach.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
51 Amhrasach 
52 Son of Sam 
53 Route 32 
54 Whitewash 
55 Drop The Dead Donkey 
56 Blasket]]

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. ''A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. ''Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* ''A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a ''S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). ''An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a ''F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) ''Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c ''T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. ''This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c ''R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005 (Top-roped prior to ascent) ''Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

'''ROLLERBALL''' * 28m E3 5c ''T. Irving, August 1977. ''A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.[[File:Rollerball.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
57 The Inner Torment of Professor Roberts 
58 Rollerball 
59 Forbidden Kink 
60 Gallows Pole 
61 Marchanded Crack 
62 Midnight Summer Dream 
63 Desolation Row 
64 Sunbane 
65 Sunstone]]

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c ''Conor McGovern ''Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. ''Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c ''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. ''A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b ''B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. ''An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. ''This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. ''An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). ''Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a ''T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. ''An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top. '''Direct Start''' 6a ''K. Murphy, 1984. ''Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b ''D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. ''This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained). '''Direct Start''' 6b ''E. Cooper, 1988. ''Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c ''R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.
[[File:Sunstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
65 Sunstone 
66 Eliminator 
67 Kleptomaniac 
68 Earthling 
69 Grey Dawn 
70 Point Blank 
71 Pointless 
72 Lucy]]

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b ''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. ''A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. ''This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade. '''Alternative start''' E2 6a ''E. Cooper, September 1984. ''Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b ''C. Waddy, 1986. ''Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. ''A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

[[File:Skywalker.jpg|none|thumb|776x776px|
73 Stigmata 
74 Blockhead 
75 Skywalker 
76 Moments of Inertia]]

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. ''A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

'''Direct Star''' - The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

'''Variation''' 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. ''A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a ''J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. ''Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

'''Variation''' 6a ''W. Rock, 1995. ''Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. ''Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a ''C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). ''This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c ''J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. ''This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. ''This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b ''Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 ''Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

[[File:Stardust.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
77 High Profile 
78 Moon Rill 
79 Stardust 
80 Sea of Dreams 
81 The Crying Game 
82 Very Big Springs 
83 The MacPhearson Strut 
84 Hoping 
85 Line of Fire 
86 Ice Queen 
87 Wall of Fossils 
88 Fall of Wossils 
89 Hang About 
90 Ladda 
91 Chocks Away]]

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b ''G. Smith, 1993. ''The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b ''Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, ''Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a ''G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. ''Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. ''A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b ''R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, ''A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust.

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. ''The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a ''T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). ''This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c ''A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. ''The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95 ''Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m ''R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. ''An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.
[[File:Tombstone.jpg|none|thumb|800x800px|
92 Tombstone Terror 
93 Loosing Touch 
94 Hooked on Crack 
95 Faith 
96 Flaws in the Glass]]

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b ''C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. ''A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a ''R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. ''This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b ''J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. ''This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c ''Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 ''Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b ''G. Smith (on sight). ''This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b ''A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 ''The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) ''An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

[[File:VirtualImage.jpg|none|thumb|950x950px|
98 Refraction 
99 Snell’s Law 
100 Virtual Image 
101 Virtual Image 
102 The Cutter 
103 Phoenix in the Mirror 
104 Face to Face 
105 Through the Looking Glass 
106 Looking Back 
107 On Reflection108 The Ramp 
109 The Ramp 
110 Prism Sentence 
111 Quicksilver ]]

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a ''K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''SNELL’S LAW''' 36m E7 6c ''Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. ''Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a ''D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. ''A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a ''G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. ''This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c ''D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. ''The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a ''J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. ''Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. ''An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top. '''Direct start''' E3 6a This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b ''E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. ''Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a ''G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. ''A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a ''D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. ''A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a ''E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. ''A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b ''G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. ''Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''QUICKSILVER''' *** 31m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. ''A brilliant route. Start below the first corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b ''B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. ''Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.
[[File:Sardine.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
112 Peanut Butter Special 
113 Obscene Sardine 
114 Temptation 
115 Peanut Sheller 
116 Peppermint Kiss 
117 Fatal Attraction 
118 Black Baron 
119 Joker Man 
120 Damn the Torpedoes 
121 Sharkbait 
122 Pis Fliuch]]

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c ''S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. ''A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. ''A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b ''J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. ''A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a ''A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) ''An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). ''A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. ''Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b ''E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. ''An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a ''E. Cooper, 1992. ''Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b ''H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 ''Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a ''J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. ''The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b ''Craig Adam, Andy Marshall ''Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner. Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c ''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. ''Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top. '''Direct Finish''' 20m E3 5c ''James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 ''Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

[[File:KeyLargo.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
123 Key Largo 
124 Hopeless acts of desperation 
125 Garbh 
126 Forty Coats 
127 Western Pride 
128 Fish Rising 
129 The Horizontal Dance 
130 Jug City]]

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a ''C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. ''A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c ''D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 ''4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b ''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. ''After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a ''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. ''First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c ''C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. ''A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) ''Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 ''The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c ''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. ''Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. ''Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

[[File:Conger.jpg|none|thumb|850x850px|
132 Conger 
133 The Water Margin 
134 The Weed 
135 The Emigrant 
136 The Rack 
137 Ship of Fools 
138 Siren 
139 Song to the Siren 
141 Venusian Spray 
142 The Happiness that Hurts]]

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. ''A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c ''T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. ''This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b ''J. Colton, 21/8/77. ''Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a ''K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. ''This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a ''E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom. '''Alternative start''' E6 6b ''K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). ''Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c ''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. ''From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a ''F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) ''This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a ''Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) ''Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a ''Conor McGovern 12th August 2017 ''Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a '' J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. ''On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c '' Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 ''This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b '' S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. ''A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b'' T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. ''The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c '' Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin ''From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.'' ''A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.'' ''The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b '' D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. ''An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b '' M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. ''Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a '' D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.''

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a '' T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. ''The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.'' '''''Direct Finish''' E3 6a '' ''E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. '' ''Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. ''An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .''

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c '' Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 ''Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 ''The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a '' Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 ''The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide.

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. ''Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.'' '''''Direct Start''' '' E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. ''The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a '' ''This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. ''A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b '' T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. ''This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c '' J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). ''This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a '' B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. ''An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.'' '''''Alternative Finish''' E1 5b '' K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. ''At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 '' C. Ryan, C. Shannon, June 2014 (Headpoint) ''Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a '' T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. ''Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b '' E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. ''A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a '' Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. ''Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a '' H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. ''The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b '' G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. ''A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c '' P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. ''Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.'' '''''Direct Start''' VS 4c '' P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, ''Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b '' E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A ''Short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c '' E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. ''This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c '' C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. ''This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c '' M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. ''Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c '' P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. ''This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c '' J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c '' P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. ''Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD '' J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. ''Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b '' I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. ''On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD '' ''It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks

[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

The DWS routes have been moved to their own page at [[Ailladie DWS Routes|<big>'''Ailladie DWS Routes'''</big>]], so that a pin on the map can have a different colour to the trad routes.