Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Sheeps Head

2026-07-18T21:19:43Z

Damo95: /* West Inlet. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]
[[File:Screenshot 20260718 220640 Gallery.jpg|thumb|West inlet from base. A B & C visible. Perhaps its Ressesed Slab to the left (?) but not confirmed. |alt=]]

 
[[File:Screenshot 20260718 221436 Galler.jpg|thumb|Second face of west inlet. Gerry88 marked with red dots. ]]
'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks.

Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) Ticks in the Heather''' VD Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

File:Screenshot 20260718 221436 Galler.jpg

2026-07-18T21:17:44Z

Damo95:

Second wall of west inlet.

File:Screenshot 20260718 221436 Gallery.jpg

2026-07-18T21:15:24Z

Damo95:

Second face of west inlet.

Sheeps Head

2026-07-18T21:11:49Z

Damo95: /* West Inlet. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]
[[File:Screenshot 20260718 220640 Gallery.jpg|thumb|West inlet from base. A B & C visible. Perhaps its Ressesed Slab to the left (?) but not confirmed. |alt=]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks.

Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) Ticks in the Heather''' VD Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-07-18T21:08:28Z

Damo95: /* West Inlet (from base). */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]
[[File:Screenshot 20260718 220640 Gallery.jpg|thumb|401.116x401.116px|West inlet from base]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks.

Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) Ticks in the Heather''' VD Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

File:Screenshot 20260718 220640 Gallery.jpg

2026-07-18T21:07:42Z

Damo95:

Dooneen West inlet (from base)

Seven Heads

2026-07-05T18:26:56Z

Damo95: /* Pool Area. */

Seven Heads lies on the coast, almost halfway between The Old Head of Kinsale and the town of Clonakilty. Sheet 87 of O.S. Discovery series. GR W 506 355

<display_map zoom="11"> 51.57025, -8.713328~Seven Heads </display_map>

The following information is taken from New Climbs 1982 & 1984. This sandstone crag is best approached from Courtmacsherry through Butlerstown, and eventually via the track leading to the old signal tower. The climbs are short but steep and technical with much hand-jamming on sharp rock. The protection is usually good with medium-sized nuts. Large numbers of seagulls nest here in the Spring, so climbing does not start until June. Many of the climbs start at the low-water mark so care with the tides is necessary. The routes were done during 1980-82, unless otherwise stated. See figure 1 for the location of East Wall, Main Wall and the Rock Pool.

==East Wall==

 '''Surprise''' 15m S 4a. Climb the first corner L of the way down. C. O'Leary.

'''Chuckawalla''' 15m VD. Climb the stepped slab and crack 3m L of Surprise. P. Long.

'''Venturer''' 15m MS. Start: as for Chuckwalla. Climb up the R-hand side of corner which starts half-way up. P. Long.

'''Wayward''' 15m S. Start: in the corner L of Venturer. Climb R-wards until a crack is reached which is followed L-ward to the top. P. Long.

'''Grown Up Jelly Baby Maker''' 17m HVS 5a. Satrt: on the L-hand side of the steep slab L of Wayward. Climb the shallow corner for 6m. Exit L and climb directly up the slab/wall to the top. Poor protection. S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.

'''Decadence''' 17m VS 4c. Takes the obvious curving corner L of Wayward. Step up onto pointed block and climb the corner crack, passing a loose, but useful, hold to the top. D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.

'''L.O.L.R.A.S.''' S. This route takes the broken loose chimney at the far L end of the big ledge at the base of East Wall. S. O'Riordan, M. Foley.

==Main Wall==

From the bottom R to top L is a rising ledge. This is Con's Ledge. This can be used (with great care) as a descent route. Alternatively, scramble down the L side of the wall (facing in). The L end of the wall is less affected by the tide. The climbs are described from R to L here.

'''Niamh's Diff''' 10m Start: 10m from low-water level at the R end of Con's Ledge. Climb the R-ward trending corner.

'''Birdy Loo''' 12m VD. Climb the bulge 2m L of Niam's Diff and finish up crack in the centre of the slab. S. O'Riordan.

'''Sea Spray''' 12m S 4a. Climb the overhang L of Birdy Loo at its easiest point and finish up dihedral and crack on L-hand side of the slab. P. Long.

'''Monocular''' 12m S 4a. Take the overhang on good holds and trend L-wards, finishing up crack with a circular pocket. P. Long.

'''Finger Tip Ballet''' 20m VS 4c. From the base of Con's Ledge descend westwards to a steep triangular slab. Climb the centre one of three cracks (crux) to rejoin Con's Ledge. Move slightly L and up shallow depression onto the upper wall. Exit R of small overhang. D. OConnell, S. O'Riordan.

'''Sniggering Sardine''' 27m E3 5c Start: up the third crack R of Sniggering Seal and climb R-wards to finish up L of the first crack R of Sniggering Seal. Climb the hard crack until a step L can be made to an obvious footholds below an overlap. Move up and L to a jug and then gain a ledge on the L. Continue L to the next hard crack and follow this until it ends, then step L to a foothold. Climb straight to top. K. Murphy, S. O'Sullivan. 16 Sept. 1984

'''Bishop's Move''' 20m E2 5b Start up the wide R-facing, R trending corner/crack R of The Sniggering Seal. At the overlap at the top of the crack step L onto the obvious foothold and L again to a good jug. Finish up the thinner crack. S. O' Riordan, C. Bloxham. 1983

'''The Sniggering Seal''' 20m E1 5b This route takes the second crack from the L-hand side of Main Wall. Climb a thin wall to a crack at 3m (bold) continue to a small overhang. Surmount this and follow the crack to emerge on the L edge of a sloping ramp. A short corner crack leads to the top. D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.

'''The Mangle''' 20m HVS 5a Climb the short L-facing corner on the L end of Main Wall for 3m to the start of a wide sharp crack. Climb the crack (crux) to a resting position and finish up final corner. D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.

'''Diplomatic''' 10m VD, Climb the wide broken crack on the short wall L of Main Wall. Anonymous.

'''Moonlight and Vodka''' 10m E3 5c/6a Start: takes the wall just R of Seagull's Nest. Climb directly up the wall to ledge. Climb straight up onto obvious jug and straight up on small holds to top. K. Murphy, S. O'Sullivan. 16th Sept. 1984.

'''Seagull's Nest''' 10m VD Climb slab to obvious corner at mid-height and finish up this. C. O'Leary, P. Long.

13 new routes

The following 13 routes are short (5m - 8m) and generally quite easy. I am sure they were all soloed as a warm-up back in the 80's or maybe earlier by the climbers who put up the other routes in the area. They are well above the high tide and moderate scramble up and down make them a good challenge for novice leaders or as a rough weather option for others (but not too rough).
[[File:Seven Heads main wall new routes.png|center|thumb|601x601px]]
Routes are from right to left looking in (Leader in the top right of picture is on Seagull’s nest VD).

'''Herring''' - 8m Diff

8m left of Seagull’s nest, climb thin cracks to the ledge then continue right up the arete or groove to the next level.

Unknown

'''Razorbill''' - 5m S

Start 3m left of Herring up thin cracks to top

Unknown

'''Ramp'''- 5m Diff

Climb rightward leaning ramp to top.

Unknown

'''Left foot''' – 5m VD

Start as for Ramp, gain small ramp then follow crack under leftward slopping roof.

Unknown

'''Guillemot''' - 5m Diff

Start at the bottom of a small rightward leaning ramp, follow wide cracks to top.

Unknown

'''Large friend''' - 5m VD

Start 3m left of Guillemot, follow wide crack to the top.

Unknown

'''Candy flipping''' - 8m S

Start 1m left of Large friend, move up and leftward to gain a large vertical pocket (crux), then up and leftward again to ledge and follow thin crack to top.

R. Falcini, D. Boyle 2021

'''Candy craic''' - 8m VD

Start 4m left of Candy flipping, difficult start then follow thin cracks to top. Good gear.

R. Falcini, D. Boyle 2021

'''Puffin''' - 8m Diff

First thin crack on right in the bay with large puddle, manage rope with care. Great route for the grade.

Unknown

'''Oystercatcher''' - 8m Diff

Second thin crack in puddle bay. Start on a small dry ledge at the back of the bay and step over the water carefully to right to start. Stay right of the easy groove at the top.

'''Gannet''' 11- 8m Diff

Start on small dry ledge, climb straight up thin cracks and stay left of the groove at the top.

Unknown

'''Redshank''' - 8m Diff

Start as for Gannet but move leftward to wide crack to top.

Unknown

'''Fulmar''' - 8m Diff

Step back and left from small dry ledge to a triangular groove, climb up wide cracks to top.

Unknown

==Pool Area.==
[[File:Pool Area black wall .jpg|thumb]]

'''Plastered''' 7m S Takes the first corner and crack on good jams. S. O'Riordan, N. Cohalan.

On the black wall at the back of the Rock Pool there are three routes.

'''Anonimity''' 12m VD The easiest way up the black wall onto the ledge and up the easiest crack to the top.

'''Blarney''' 15m VS 4b Take the R-hand crack up the black wall to the wide ledge, then up a short crack to a second ledge and final short crack to the top. S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.

'''Beony''' 15m VS4b Climb the L-hand crack (crux) to the ledge and finish up L-hand cracks to the top.

'''Looking across the inlet there is a steep wall. The descent route to this area is down the western side of the obvious nose.'''

'''Battenberg & Malt''' 18m VS 4b Move east from the descent route to a series of corners and ledges. Climb these for 11m and step L into an inverted V chimney. Climb this (crux) to the top. D. O'Connell, P. Long.

'''Escape''' 20m E1 5b Start: takes the obvious crack/groove in the wall L of the descent route mentioned above. Belay at a corner on L near the high water mark. Climb up and R to base of crack. Climb this (hard to start) to top. K. Murphy, C. Bloxham. 16th Sept 1984.

West from the descent route is an obvious sentry box.

'''Piece O' Cake''' 15m S 4a Climb into sentry box and exit L onto a platform. Climb a short steep wall to finish. S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.

'''Birdy Snatch''' 15m VD Step down past Piece O' Cake and onto a sloping platform. Climb the stepped corner to a large ledge and finish up back wall. E. O'Flynn, S. O'Riordan.

'''Humpty Dumpty Was Pushed''' 15m VS 4c From the L edge of sloping platform climb the arete onto the ledge. Finish up crack on R-hand wall. S. O'Riordan, D. O'Connell.

'''Steppin' Out''' 15m VS 4c From the L edge of the platform swing down and into a short corner. Climb this to L edge of the ledge and continue up the L-hand side of the back wall. D. O'Connell, S. O'Riordan.

==Maps==

'''Map to scale'''

[[File:7 heads again.png|700px|7 heads again.png]]

'''Rough sketch'''

[[File:7 heads.png|700px|7 heads.png]]

File:Pool Area black wall .jpg

2026-07-05T18:26:33Z

Damo95:

Pool Area black wall

Sheeps Head

2026-06-21T09:57:33Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks.

Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) Ticks in the Heather''' VD Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-30T11:13:20Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) Ticks in the Heather''' VD Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-30T10:11:20Z

Damo95: /* Sqaure faced Buttress */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Square faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

===2nd Crag===

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger.''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) ???.''' ? Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-30T10:06:08Z

Damo95: /* Tooreen */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

===Sqaure faced Buttress===

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger.''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) ???.''' ? Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-29T22:19:26Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

'''Square-faced Buttress'''

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''(A) Abalak Digger.''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''(B) ???.''' ? Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-29T22:18:34Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

'''Square-faced Buttress'''

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===
[[File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg|thumb]]

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''Abalak Digger.''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''???.''' ? Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

File:Screenshot 20260529 231536 Gallery.jpg

2026-05-29T22:18:10Z

Damo95:

Tooreen Cub Crag pic

Sheeps Head

2026-05-29T22:13:58Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

'''Square-faced Buttress'''

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress, closer to sea. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Likely been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names untill someone else claims them.

Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''Abalak Digger.''' D Damien Collins & Ger O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''???.''' ? Ger O'Sullivan & Damien collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-29T21:55:58Z

Damo95: /* Cub Crag */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

 

===Cub Crag===

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress. Maybe 6-8m high (?), lots of horizontal cracks. Probably been climbed before, but putting them here for reference and giving names unless someone else claims them. Can scramble up and down the left side (facing the wall) using the flakes. Probably can get up and down the right side too but didn't try it. only did 2 routes to start but plenty potential for more easy climbs there.

Beware of loose rocks though, test everything.

'''Abalak Digger.''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan 29/5/2026

Roughly follows second fault/weakness in wall from left side. Up to small overhang and went around to right and up to finish.

'''???.''' ? G O'Sullivan & D collins 29/5/2026

tougher start and easy finish. Starts at beginning of overhang section approx 3/4 of the way across from left edge of crag, pink flowers sprouting from bottom half of the crack at regular intervals. Climb the overhang using a big flake and then easier climbing up to finish. Horizontal cracks and cams.

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2026-05-29T21:14:18Z

Damo95: /* Tooreen */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

===Cub Crag===

Small crag full of easy lines off to the right of of the square faced buttress

'''Abalak digger.''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan 29/5/2026 

 

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T22:11:31Z

Damo95: /* Black Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Steps''' 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T22:07:37Z

Damo95: /* Morning Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px|frame|left|'''The Black Steps''']] 

 
===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T22:06:46Z

Damo95: /* Morning Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px|frame|left|'''The Black Steps''']] 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T22:04:45Z

Damo95: /* Black Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px|frame|left|'''The Black Steps''']] 

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T22:03:08Z

Damo95: /* Black Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px|frame|left|'''The Black Steps''']]

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T21:39:09Z

Damo95: /* Black Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

'''The Black Steps**''' D D Collins & G O'Sullivan Nov 2025 **probably climbed before so the names provisional. Originally thought this was the black arete route but when I looked at the picture above (the guy climbing in a yellow jacket), it seems to be a different line. Open to correction though.
Details: followed red dots in image below. Started at the corner between Morning Wall and Black Wall, going up the steps before traversing left and then up to finish.

[[File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg|600px|frame|left|'''The Black Steps''']]

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

File:Screenshot 20251205 213013.jpg

2025-12-05T21:34:03Z

Damo95:

black steps

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T21:22:16Z

Damo95: /* Grey Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===
 
[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Lamb to the Slaughter*''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. *Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.
 
[[File:20251119 151102(1).jpg|600px]]
 '''Lamb to the Slaughter''' follows red dots

3 other climbs have been added since the crag sketch was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|600px]]

 1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

Sheeps Head

2025-12-05T21:07:40Z

Damo95: /* Grey Wall. */

==Introduction==
Sheep's Head O.S. Sheet 88 Discovery Series. The Sheep's Head peninsula is not too widely known to the outside world. It deserves better, having much to offer the climber, walker and cyclist. As to the climbing, the rock is clean and sound, the gear good, and the situations inspiring. '''There are still many possible lines awaiting a first ascent''' so, if at some stage you tire of following someone else's chalk marks, grow weary of playing the numbers game, feel like breaking away from the herd and making your own personal contribution to the Irish climbing scene, why not pay a visit.

There is a campsite 4km south of Durrus on the road to Schull (Dunbeacon Campsite, ph. 027 61246). For details of self-catering and B&Bs, see www.thesheepshead.com, or drop in to the cafe cum information centre at the turning table near the tip of the Head, where the road ends, (run by a local woman, it serves tea and home-made pastries). Naturally, every village has at least one pub, and pub-grub is available in Kilcrohane and Durrus. For some really excellent local produce try 'Good things to Eat' just outside Durrus, on the road to Kilcrohane.

==Carrignacappul==
Grid. Ref. V 798 356 Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate (close it after you) and strike off right, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark. In general, the west side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

===East Inlet.===
The most easterly (left looking out to sea) of the 3 inlets is bounded on the west (right, looking out to sea) by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two sections. The inner section is provided with plentiful holds; the outer section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The climbs are described from left to right when facing the rock.
[[File:SH2.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]

[[image:sheeps head.png]]

[[file:ssh14a1.jpg|600px]]

'''East Inlet (View from descent)'''

A = Be Not Afraid. B = Trup. C = Samuelito

[[file:shs4.jpg|600px]]

'''Be Not Afraid VS4b/c'''

'''Be Not Afraid.''' VS 4b/c G. Moss, L. Convery, H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Scramble in from the head of the inlet along narrow ledges or abseil down the fault-line and move left down a ramp to a good ledge on the high-water mark. Belay below some thin cracks in the slab. This climb follows left-hand crack slanting up left . Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.
[[File:Fm.jpg|center|thumb|573x573px]]
'''Fin & Minke VS 5a'''

'''Fin & Minke''' VS 5a

P Concannon, M Creedon, 10/8/2020.

Takes a thin right wards trending line left of Pegasus and R of BNA small wires useful, picture of line below,

'''Pegasus.''' S 4a G. Moss L. Convery H. Herzman 6/6/2005 Start as for Be Not Afraid, below the thin right-hand crack. Climb the crack. Small wires and friends useful.

[[file:sh15a.jpg|600px]]

'''Trup, Trup, Trup.'''

'''Trup, Trup, Trup''' D L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 6/6/2005 Start at the foot of the shallow corner formed by the vertical fault-line. Climb the corner, moving a little left. near the top.
[[File:SH.jpg|center|thumb|666x666px]]
'''Morning Dew.''' S J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013 Start to the right of Trup, Trup, Trup at the end of the ledge where it rises a little. After some in-cut steps, follow the crack line directly up.

'''Cormorants’ Parade.''' VD P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013 Start just beyond the ledge and right of Morning Dew. After a slabby start, it’s all edges and ledges and three steps right.

'''Tide Line Breach''' S P. Britton, J. Bergin, 16/11/2013. This route starts at an obvious shallow square cut depression about 4m left of Samuelito. Step into the depression and follow the crack line on the right above. (Grade needs confirmation on a dry day.)

'''Misty''' VD J. Bergin, P. Britton, 16/11/2013. Start 1m left of Samuelito. Step across the void onto the slab at some left facing holds, then straight up.

[[file:shs12a.jpg|600px]]

'''Samuelito VD'''

'''Samuelito.''' VD H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Scramble down the gully at the head of the inlet and belay halfway along the inner section of the slab, below two diverging cracks. Pull up onto the slab and foot traverse left along a ledge system to where it ends. Climb straight up from here.

'''Apprentice.''' D H. Herzman, G. Moss, L. Convery, 6/6/2005. Start as for Samuelito, below the left-hand of two cracks. Make a steep move up onto the slab and follow the crack to the top.

'''Sweet Marie.''' D L. Convery, H. Herzman, 6/6/2005. Start as for above. Climb the right-hand crack.

'''Dream of a Sacrificial Lamb''' 40m HS 4b

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Paddy O’Brien, 1/7/2018.

An enjoyable rising traverse of the inner slab. Start as for Samuelito and follow the shelves leftwards until forced up to cross blank slab to reach the cliff crest (crux). Resist the temptation to top out; instead hand-traverse to finish at the top of Morning Dew.

===Central Inlet===
This inlet, like the west inlet, culminates in a large cave. '''Central Slab.''' The outer section of the spur dividing the central and western inlets narrows to a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The first two climbs are reached by back-climbing a two-metre step (this section can be protected by placing a large sling over a flake) and scrambling out along the arete to where an abseil anchor can be arranged. Abseil down the back of the slab to a ledge system and scramble around left to reach a narrow ledge on the high water mark at the front of the slab (it is possible to abseil down the front of the slab, but the ledge is narrow and care will be needed to keep the rope from getting wet).

[[file:sh9a.jpg|600px]]

'''Central Slab'''
A = Mutton Dressed as Lamb as viewed from above the cave.

[[file:shs11.jpg|600px]]

'''Mutton Dressed as Lamb'''

'''Mutton Dressed As Lamb.''' VS 4c G. Moss, L. Convery, 26/6/2005. Start on the narrow ledge, just left of a shallow corner and below two small overhangs. Climb the crack to the first overhang, followed by the short corner, finishing up the thin crack above the second overhang.

'''Capall Mara.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, L. Convery 26/6/2005 Start just right. of Mutton Dressed as Lamb. This climb takes the crack just right of the square-cut overhang and corner of the previous climb.

'''Capall Luascáin.''' VS 4b. G. Moss H. Herzman 8/8/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high water mark, at the foot of a right facing corner at the right-hand end of the slab and just left of a small, narrow subsidiary inlet. Climb the crack in the corner, difficulties ease after the horizontal ledge.

[[file:sh1a.jpg|600px]]

'''Calum's Corner''' A = Calum's Corner VD. B = Point to Point S. C = Capall Luascáin VS 4b.

'''Point to Point.''' S G. Moss L. Convery 26/6/2005 Abseil down to a ledge on the high-water mark, at the foot of the long corner-crack just left (west) of the cave mouth and right of the subsidiary inlet mentioned above. Climb diagonally left to reach the arete at the edge of the inlet. Move up the arete to a large ledge and traverse left above the inlet. Step down left across a gap to gain the slanting crack on the face of the slab. Follow this left-ward to the top.

'''Calum's Corner.''' VD L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/2005 The imposing-looking corner just left of the cave gives as good a V. Diff as you will find anywhere. Start as for Point to Point. Climb the corner, move out left at the overhang and finish up the chimney.

===West Inlet.===
The west side of this inlet is composed of a series of corners. The next climb takes a slab at the back of the deepest recess and access is by abseiling down the easy-angled slab.
[[File:SH1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
 
[[File:Sheeps HeadWI1.jpg|thumb|alt=|center|667x667px]]

'''Happy Cathy''' D C. McGovern, G,. Moss 1/5/2023 Start: Abseil down Recessed Slab to some blocks. Scramble on down to belay on a ledge just above the high water mark. Step L across the gap and continue diagonally L to the foot of the headwall, which is climbed near its R edge.

'''Recessed Slab.''' D L. Convery G. Moss 26/6/06 Start on some large blocks at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab.

'''Blocky Rocky.''' D (A) H. Herzman, G. Moss 8/8/2005 This climb takes the left-hand fault, which is the widest of the two, and ends up over some stacked blocks.

'''Cathy58''' MS. (B) C. McGovern. G.Moss 19/07/24 This climb follows the fault line 2m L of the shallow corner.

'''Gerry88''' S+ (C) G. Moss, C. McGovern 19/07/24 Climb the shallow L facing corner.

'''Old Grey Mare.''' MS G. Moss, H. Herzman 8/8/2005 This climb takes the obvious long corner starting 3m below and R of the blocks.

==Dooneen Wall==
From the parking place mentioned above for Carrignacappul, walk back up the road to the stile on the left. for the Sheep's Head Way. Follow the Way to where it starts to head inland, away from the coast (there is a warning sign at this point). The wall is a few meters beyond the sign. About five minutes from the car. The climbs all start from the same point the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk) that runs all the way across the wall, just above the high water mark.

This wall, and some slabs to the left of it, can be seen to the northwest from Carrignacappul.

[[file:sh5a.jpg|600px]]

'''Dooneen Wall'''
A = The Golden Fleece VS 4c. B = Crooked Crack VD. C = Saltire HS 4a.
D = Twenty Years HS 4a. E = Bo Peep VS 4c. F = The Sheepwalk MS.

'''The Golden Fleece.''' VS 4c G. Moss L. Convery 27/6/06 Start just right of the crooked crack, at the right-hand end of the footledge (The Sheepwalk). A bouldering start leads to better holds and the short finishing crack directly above.

[[file:sh13.jpg|600px]]

'''The Golden Fleece VS 4c'''

'''Crooked Crack.''' VD. L. Convery G. Moss 27/6/06 Start at the foot of the obvious crooked crack slanting up left. Follow the crack up, across, and up again.

[[file:sh6.jpg|600px]]

The Crooked Crack, VD.

'''Saltire.''' HS 4a. G. Moss, H. Herzman, 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk to the foot of the first crack left of Crooked Crack. Climb this to the horizontal section of Crooked Crack, foot traverse back right along this and climb the thin crack above its right-hand end.

'''Twenty Years.''' HS 4a H. Herzman, G. Moss 10/8/2005 Traverse along The Sheepwalk passing Saltire, to where two parallel cracks slope up left. Climb the right-hand one which continues all the way to the top.

'''Bo Peep.''' VS 4c. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005. Traverse out along The Sheepwalk until below the final crack in the wall, which is about 2m right of where the footledge ends. Climb the crack which is fingery to start and finish.

'''The Sheepwalk.''' MS. G. Moss, H. Herzman 10/8/2005 Traverse the footledge to where it ends. Climb the corner, move up onto the arete, make a step across and climb the headwall via the short crack.

==Trá Ruaim==
'''About 4km southwest of Kilcrohane there is a road junction at a two storey house (The Black Gate). Just beyond this junction there is a road on the left, signposted Trá Ruaim. Drive down this narrow lane until it ends at Trá Ruiam pier. Cross the stream, go through the gate and strike up along the inside of the fence on the right, following it to where it ends, at a large boulder. Five minutes, at most, from the pier. Scramble down towards the sea and contour around to the east on ledges just above the high water mark to a ramp below the Grey Wall. The first routes start from this ramp, which contains a narrow, cone-shaped pool about 4m long.'''

===Grey Wall.===

'''Lamb to the Slaughter''' VD D Collins & G O SUllivan Nov 2025. Probable repeat, name provisional. Route roughly follows the next main vertical crack to the left of 1a Wooly Minded. Probably climbed previously but wanted to add it here for reference. Climbed a left facing corner into a shallow recess, then moved left onto a horizontal crack on the face and stepped up. Small mantel over the top to finish. Protection isn't great for the top out.
Grade: VD or S.

3 climbs have been added since the sketch below was created (1a, 1b and 1c).
[[File:TR LHS.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]
1a '''Wooly Minded.''' Diff. G.Moss. C. McGovern. 10/7/22

Start just R of the cone shaped pool, below a L facing corner. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above.

1b '''Cathy''' Diff. C. McG. G. M. 10/7/22 Start 3m R of Wooly Minded, below a white patch and corner on the wall above. Climb the corner and the pocketed wall above, pull and finish up over the small overhang on good holds.

The next climb (Ursulas Biscuit) tackles the left-facing corner that starts halfway up the grey slab and just left of the overhang. The climb culminates in an open-book corner with a good crack

[[image:sheeps head 2.png]]

'''Ursula's Bisket.''' S H. Herzman G. Moss L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start on the ramp, R of Cathy and below the slanting left-facing corner and just left of the overhang at half height.. Climb the groove and the open-book corner above.

1c '''Wool Gathering. V. Diff'''. G.M. C. McG. 10/7/22. Start below the ramp and R of Ursula's Bisket. Move up and climb the edge just R of the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang direct and finish on good holds.

'''Sheep May Safely Graze.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start about 3m right of Ursula's Bisket and just right of the overhang, directly beneath a thin crack running up the lower two-thirds of the grey face. Climb to a small ledge and make fingery moves up the crack to better holds. Step right and finish direct. Low in the grade, small wires useful.

[[file:shs10a.jpg|600px]]

'''Sheep May Safely Graze HVS 5a'''

A = The Obvious Flake S. B = Ursula's Bisket S.

'''The Obvious Flake.''' S. L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 7/6/2005. Start from a ledge at the bottom of a left-facing corner 2m to the right of Sheep May Safely Graze There is a prominent left-facing flake at the top of the corner. Climb the corner to the flake, up over this and continue more easily to the top.

===Black Wall.===

'''The Black Cleft.''' S G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 7/6/2005. Start just right of The Obvious Flake. Move across right into the cleft and climb it direct.

'''The Black Sheep.''' VS 4c G. Moss H. Herzman L. Convery 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform to the right of The Black Cleft, below an undercut, fist-wide crack. Climb the crack to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack sloping up right and step around right to finish.

'''Tortoise Full o' Rigor Mortis''' HVS 5a Duggan, R. Julienne, H. 08/2010. Climbs the thin finger crack to the left of The Black Sheep. Climb this to a ledge, and fix protection below small roof above. Climb the roof direct, topping out on good holds.

'''Barnacle Bay''' S J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss 16/07/2011. Start 2m R of The Black Sheep, below a sloping ledge. Difficult move gain the ledge. Continue straight up on good holds, finishing just R of the Black Sheep.

'''Purple Lamb''' VS 4c J Bergin, L Storey May 2012.
Start one meter right of Barnacle Bay, below a horizontal ledge. Mantleshelf with difficulty to gain this and continue straight to top of cliff on good but small holds - good protection.

'''The Black Arete.''' VD L. Convery H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005 Start from the wide platform, several m. right of The Black Sheep, at the foot of the arete sloping up left. Climb the arete.

[[file:shs13a.jpg|600px]]

'''The Black Arete VD''' 

A = The Black Sheep VS 4c.

===Morning Wall.===

'''Walkover.''' D H. Herzman G. Moss 8/6/2005. Start around the corner from The Black Arete 4m left of the square cut chimney, at the foot of a right-facing corner. Climb the corner.

[[file:shs19.jpg|600px]]

'''Walkover'''

'''Morning Sun''' S. J. Reville, J. Byrne, G. Moss, 16/07/2011.
This climb takes the square-cut chimney and continues direct to the top.

'''Morning Pool''' E1 5b

Elliot John, H John 15/06/2025. Start at a shallow L facing undercut corner 7m right of morning sun above a rock pool. The crack in the corner is sufficiently wide to place some gear and provide a hold low down, but narrows with bold hard moves from the ground until a ledge is reached. Easier climbing follows straight up from the ledge to the top.

'''Dark Corner''' S. G. Moss, J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start at the foot of the black, L-facing corner 10 m R of Morning Sun.
Climb the corner, move L to a ledge and continue straight up. 

[[file:sheepshead119a.jpg|600px]]

'''Morning Drink''' V.Diff. J. Byrne, J. Reville 16/07/2011. Start almost 2m R of Dark Corner, below a short shallow crack. Move up over ledges to trend R over pock-marked rock.

==Tooreen==
An outcrop near the southwest point of the Head, situated roughly halfway between some old stone-walled enclosures along the top of the sea-cliffs and the Sheep's Head Way.

Park at the Turning Table Café, where the road ends. Follow the Sheep's Head Way south for about two hundred meters and then drop down left, heading roughly southwest, aiming for the southern end of some old fields down below. The crags are about 50 meters above the fields.

Square-faced Buttress

A small attractive buttress 50m left or West of Mizen View

[[File:SFB.jpg|600px]]

'''Reville’s Edge''' 12m VS

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/6/2018.

Climb the wall just right of the left arete.

'''Specks in Space''' 12m HVS

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/6/2018.

Climb the cracks 2m to the right of the crack in the centre of the wall. Delicate, technical moves in the upper half.

and this one is above the remains of a stone wall that runs up from the southern end of the last field. The crag, which is split in two, stacked one behind the other, is distinguished by the numerous white quartzite streaks.

'''Mizzen View.''' HVS 5a G. Moss H. Herzman 9/8/2005. Start from a boulder below the narrow, tapering left face of the lower crag. Awkward holds lead to the overhang, step left and back right and move up to belay on the arete.

'''Anniversary.''' HS 4b H. Herzman G. Moss 9/8/2005. Start a little right of Mizzen View, at the left-hand end of a quartzy crack slanting up right. across the face. Climb the crack and, when it fades, finish up steeply to gain the arete. Move right, step across and climb the right-hand edge of the back wall.

'''Thin Crack''' VS 4c G. Moss, H. Herzman, 9/8/2005. Start below the thin vertical crack near the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack over two overhanging sections and continue steeply to the arete. Move a little left., step across and climb the back wall.

==Bunowen==
On the North coast there are a series of 3 headlands pointing SW into Bantry Bay below Gortavallig. Park at the slipway at Bunowen Grid Ref 761 368 and follow the Sheep’s Head Way NE wards to the headlands. The following routes were climbed on a south facing wall on a small headland between the first and second
headland. The walk-in takes about 10 mins.

[[File:Bunowen.jpg|600px]]

'''Bantry Boogie''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

The left edge of the slab using pock marks and flakes to a ledge, finish up rightwards.

'''Mr Whippy''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Crackline 4m right of Bantry Boogie.

'''Hot Squelchy Tarmac''' 10m VD

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/6/2018.

Climb the ramp and wall 1m right of Mr Whippy.

'''Wild Atlantic Ways''' 10m VD

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Barney Crampton, 30/6/2018.

Climb the right facing corner right of squelchy tarmac to a ledge, the upper corner is over hanging and committing, escape left over flakes on the wall.

File:20251119 151102(1).jpg

2025-12-05T20:50:35Z

Damo95:

Lamb to the Slaughter