Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Howth Head

2021-05-24T10:00:43Z

Damien O'Sullivan: Edited link

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that recently (April/May 21 perhaps - though exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed and some have now been removed. However, as at 22 May 21 at least one remains. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]

Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.

Prior to that, climbers found various entertaining bits and pieces which nobody recorded until Jim Cooper explored the Head comprehensively in 2001 and 2002 and wrote down what he found. There are some worthwhile longer routes and many others which fall on the borderline of bouldering.

The rock is mainly a quartzite and mudstone mix.

In 2014/2015 a group of IMC climbers started developing the Muck Rock area above the Deer Park. Previously described on these pages as
<blockquote>"Looks impressive from a distance but is invisible from its foot because of the rhododendron forest. ''(“Bluebell Gully of moderate difficulty and little interest, T Calvert, W R Perrott”, see Bill Perrott)''."</blockquote>
The coastal area is described starting from the start of the Sutton end of the Cliff Walk and following the coast to Balscadden Road at Howth Village. Cars can be parked at the junction of Strand Road and Shielmartin Road or on Shielmartin Road itself. The Cliff Walk can also be accessed from Ceannchor Road and The Summit.

The section with possible climbing is about one and two thirds kilometres long on either side of Drumleck Point, east of the Martello Tower at Sutton House and west of Doldrum Bay. It is closer to O’Connell Street than Dalkey Quarry!

While many of the sections worth exploring are affected by high tide and only about 7 metres high, there are significant parts 12 to 15 metres high some of which are accessible above high tide.

Some sections of the rock have shaley dykes and inclusions but there is plenty of good rock. There is some excellent pink quartzite at the west (Sutton) end. Most of the crags face south west receiving the best of the afternoon sun or are in sheltered coves.

<display_map zoom="13">
53.36833, -6.092385~Warning Sign Slab (approx)
53.367716, -6.090068~Red Rock
53.366423, -6.088802~Check out the wall here
53.36253, -6.082214~Sheep's Hole
53.361019, -6.078888~Rusty Wall
53.361531, -6.080691~Mussel Cove
53.362044, -6.074404~Sandy Cove (Approx)
53.362313, -6.071571~Candlesticks
53.364669, -6.053289~Web's Castle Rock
53.385752, -6.047668~Puck's Rocks
53.386389, -6.058889~Cat Rock
53.378665, -6.08127~Muck Rock
53.375621, -6.078438~Lowest outcrop
</display_map>

==Deer Park Crag==

[[File:DeerParkIntro.png|center|600px|]]

'''Advisory Note:'''

Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that recently (April/May 21 perhaps - though exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed and some have now been removed. However, as at 22 May 21 at least one remains. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]

'''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.

'''Approach''' From the car park walk around the right side of the golf club bar and follow the track leading to the rhododendron forest. Just past the sign “Flowers must not be picked” turn right and take the small narrow left hand track at the small boulder. After approx 30m take fainter left hand track heading upwards. Walk up this for approx 200m (2 mins), ignoring overgrown leftside scrambles, and take further left hand track heading up the steps. 30m along this is up through a rhododendron ‘tunnel’ on the left (the 2nd tunnel, not the 1st) is ‘De Northside’ face. From this 2nd tunnel access to the other sections of the crag is possible by using the rough track that runs along the base (see pic below). For ‘De Southside’ overhanging face just continue along the track for 20m to the next path junction. ‘De Alcove’ is the elevated grassy area between the two.

'''Aspect''' The crag faces NW so gets sun from mid-afternoon till sunset. De Southside face has a more westerly orientation and gets the sun first. Because of its aspect it may take a while to properly dry out early in the season.

''Protection Ratings (PR)'': VG, G, M (Moderate), P (Poor)

Climbs listed left to right.
[[File:DeerParkMainNew.jpg|alt=|center|800x800px|Deerpark Crag Sections]]

===Mayan Rock===

''Mayan Rock Topo:''
[[File:MayanRockTopo.JPG|center|300px|]]

The following two routes are on Mayan Rock, a rock face found in the tree canopy to the left of Pine Tree Ledge:

'''Daoine Eile (HS 4b) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''Follows the hand sized crack at the left side of the rock face to the top. Belay from trees.

'''Daoine Maithe (HVS 5a) 13m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Start at the same crack as Daoine, but traverse out right under the small bulge to the small cracks with good gear, continue straight up. Belay from trees. 

===Maol Wall===

[[File:MaolWall2.jpg|center|500px|]]

Short steep section of the crag which has three faces, one on the left, the main castle facing side and another face around the right side.

'''Grainne (HVS? 4c) 9m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty ''A steep short and sweet route. Starts on the right side of the castle facing side of Maol Wall, just to the right of the large detached block, follow the small finger crack then tend rightward. Protection at the top of the route is small or lacking, caution is advised.

'''Cooley Crack (VS 4b) 10m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''The large obvious crack on the back of the righthand side of Maol Wall, beware the loose block below the rhododendron stumps.
[[File:Cooley crack.png|center|alt=|frameless|463x463px]]
 

===Pine Tree Ledge===

The easiest way to get to Pine Tree Ledge is from the 2nd tunnel described above in the "approach", once you reach the northside face just walk left along the rough track. Alternatively it can be reached by abseiling down "Navicula" or "Fire Cert" or scrambling down "Scram Bull" if you are confident enough in doing so.

''Pine Tree Ledge Topo:''
[[File:PineTreeLedgeDr.jpg|center|750x750px|Pine Tree Ledge Drone Shot]]

'''Zambezi Nights (S 4a)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Start just to the right of "Cooley Crack", the climb goes up the corner/gully, good gear.

'''Squawk Code (HS 4b)12m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Scramble up onto the ledge to the left of the start of snotser, climb the short slab to gain the ledge below the steep wall, the climb goes up the obvious finger crack.

'''Snotser (HS 4b)18m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak ''Scramble up the easily angled rock to a ledge. From the ledge climb the corner with the off width crack which leads to a short left tending ramp, climb the crack behind the ramp to the top. Or more easily follow the ramp.
[[File:Snotser2.png|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate (S 4a) 18m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''This climb is found in the center of the "Pine Tree Ledge" area. Start at a V groove in the rock and bridge up for 4m without protection on good holds. Clamber up the groove or the arête to top out on pine tree ledge, belay from the tree with backup.
[[File:FireCertStart.jpg|center|thumb]]

'''Fire Certificate ''"Alternate Start"'' (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''An alternative start that is a bit shorter but has some protection available in the wide crack that makes up the start. Two meters to the right of the "V-groove corner" start of "Fire Certificate" scramble up the small earth bank. Climb the crack, tend left at the top of the crack to join fire cert.

'''Navicula (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy ''Starts just to the right of Fire Cert Alt Start, climb the cracks on the right, which brings you out onto the open face, climb the face up to the pine tree.

 [[File:Navicula2.png|center|thumb]]'''Dat Dere (S 4a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Start just left of the "roof" which is close to the ground, climb behind the tree and follow the righthand tending crack, belay from top out or continue up and left to the pine tree.

'''Scram Bull (D 3a)15m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, ''Easy line that can be used to get up or down pine tree ledge.

===Middle Yurt===
A section of the crag with easier angled slabs and ledges between "pine tree ledge" and "the northside".

'''Midshift Madness (S 4a) 23m''' ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty''

Starts three meters to the left of "The Gabhar", once the first ledge is reached trend left until the steeper slab is reached. Climb left side of the slab to a ledge, move up the groove to the right of the arete.

'''The Gabhar (S 4a) 22m'''

Starts on the right side of "middle yurt" just to the right of the rhododendron tree growing at the base, climb the obvious gully to the first ledge, then continue up the gully towards the crux where the face steepens before another ledge, from the ledge tend right to the short corner, climb this to top out.

===Northside===

''Northside Topo (left end):''

[[File:3Piece.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Three Piece Sweet (S 4a) 30m, 2 pitches PR: M''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Go to the left of De Northside face past “Sharran’s Craic” for 15m till you come to an 8m high detached pinnacle which has a pointed 1m high rock coming out from the ground at the base of it. '''1. (4a)''' At the left end of the pinnacle is a cave and a tree beside it. Climb up onto the arête and continue to top of pinnacle. Step left onto a ramp which trends up leftwards until you come to a point where you can step up right to climb straight up on the slab to an angled grassy area (thread belay). '''2. (3c)''' Move right to cross underneath the roof above and then climb up the crack on the right of it to the top.

'''Variation The Sofa Start (HS 4b) PR: P''' ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 29 June 2015 ''Start at the right side of the base of the pinnacle and step onto the detached rock. From here step onto the pinnacle and up delicately trending left to the left arête and to the top of the pinnacle. PR: P No protection for this section hence HS 4b rating.

'''Captain Planet (VS 4c) 25m '''''J. Tremayne, L. Gin- May 2018 ''
Climb the slightly overhanging crack in the pinnacle. Join Three Piece Sweet and follow it until the overhang below the headwall. Arrange gear and climb up the corner. Move diagonally right up the head wall with interest to the top. .

'''Sharran’s Craic (VS 4c) 24m''' ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard - 2015 ''Walk 4m to the left of The Snapper and you will see a vertical crack in the face, this is the start of the climb. The bouldery start is the crux of the climb and you must move up on small flakes and edges above the protection to reach easier holds. Climb the crack above until it finishes and then move left 2 meters into a V shaped short gully and climb this. From the top of the gully trend right over easier ledges following the cleaned rock to a crack, climb the crack and follow the obvious route to the easy finish. 

[[File:Northside4.jpg|center|700px|]]

'''Nicky Place''' (Diff) ''Ian Christie – June 2015 ''6m to the left of the snapper you come to an alcove, climb this on the left side then right at 6m up the crack to the right of “Sharran’s Craic”. Finish as for “Sharran’s Craic”.

'''Sail of the Sentry''' (VS 4b)** 16m ''Gary Smith, Colm Peppard – 2 July 2015 ''Access the start by scrambling up the first 3m of The Snapper and moving a few metres left, along the grassy ledge, to the shallow ‘sentry box’ in the corner. The climb starts here. Move to the top of the sentry box, reach out and climb right and up onto a narrow ledge. Using the groove on the left, move up easily on good holds to the larger ledge above. Move over right to just left of a diagonal crack (possible long runner) and climb boldly leftwards & up with a delicate move (crux) to finish (escape possible to the left before tackling the crux).

'''The Snapper''' (VS 4c)*** 25m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 2014 ''Immediately in front of the entrance tunnel to De Northside face you will see a large (3m high) triangular block detached from the face, this is the start of the climb. Climb up the block on easy holds and stand on the top, place protection in the flake above and step up, follow the flake left until it peters out. Clamber on to the top (crux) of the flake (subtle move) and reach into the scoop for an excellent hand hold, place protection on your left and move up the slab on crimps and small pockets trending rightwards. Aim for vertical righthand crack above and move up this to finish up over blocky slab to belay point.

'''Sin Binn''' (E1 5b)** 23m ''Niall S. Murphy, Alan Fogarty June 2019 ''The climb starts 3m to the right of the detached block of the snapper. Start by following the fine vertical crack up to the small ledges, just above head height. Move left by using sidepulls and a high step to the ledge on the small outside corner (crux). Using small holds above continue up the vertical face until better holds appear before gaining the grassy ledge, scramble up over easier ground to the top.

'''Georgie Burgess''' (VS 4c)* 21m ''Gerry Moss, Herbert Herzmann July 2016 ''Follow the obvious groove to the bulge. The bulge provides the crux of the route and can be protected by small wires. Tricky moves lead to a high jug which helps you mount the bulge onto the small slab above. Continue up the slab to blockier ground. 

[[File:Topo_wide2.jpg|center|500px|Topo_wide2.jpg]]

'''Me Tarzan, You Insane!''' (S 4a) 20m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 Sept 2014 ''A couple of metres to the right of De Northside face entrance is a distinct inset alcove just above head height. Climb straight up the inverted triangular face just to the right of this and make a a delicate push up to gain easier ground. Climb the obvious crack in the short face on your left (great view over the top), scramble across easy ground to the face on the left side and climb the diagonal crack with a delicate move to finish (crux). PR: M/G – Protection is good but for delicate step up near the start of the climb gear is below your feet (or over 1m away on a long runner tucked around the corner in the alcove higher up on the left if you wish).

'''The Budgie Has Landed''' (S 4a) 22m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 8 June 2015 ''Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. Climb goes up left side of the obvious slab, then briefly across vegetated gully and up the obvious alcove on the left at the top. Climb up triangular block (no gear but straightforward) and initially move up right (for a cam placement if you don’t want a long ‘run in’). Strike leftward to follow clear thin diagonal crack running up the left side. Follow this as far as protection/bravery takes you and then cross grassy gully to alcove on the left with a protruding block overhead. Climb up alcove on the right to finish. (Challenge is to stay on the rock and off the grassy gully on your left).

'''The Budgie {Bites Back}''' (VS 4c) 20 mtrs PR: G° New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Keith O’Brien, Derek Hendrick 23 May 2018 ''
Start 4m to the right of MTYI (as for The Commitment) and just to the right of a narrow vegetated area. The climb goes up the left side of the slab and straight up the left side of the vertical wall above (the challenge being to stay completely off the vegetated gully to the left and on the rock at all times). {At the top of the slab a few delicate moves (protected by 2 small offset nuts in the obvious small crack running up the left side of the wall) gets you up onto a higher tier (crux). Climb straight up this on the left side briefly (to a cam placement tucked around the side half way up) and then step over rightward to finish out through the top of the Commitment Direct (see following climb).}.

'''The Commitment''' (VS 4b) 22m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''Start on the 2m high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation and loose rock by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully exiting on the right. Move carefully rightward over loose rock and place a good cam in the horizontal crack at ankle level and climb the arête confidently with small holds to the top.

'''The Commitment {Direct}**''' (HS 4b) 20 mtrs PR: G New finish in { }''' '''''Colm Peppard, Derek Hendrick, Keith O’Brien 23 May 2018 ''
Start on the 2 mtr high boulder in front of the slab approx 4 mtrs to the right of Me Tarzan, you will see a vegetated gully to the left and a vertical slab and then a V shaped rock gully (sometimes called a Diedre). Climb directly to this avoiding the vegetation by staying to the left on clean rock. Place protection and bridge up the gully (crux). {At the top move left to the base of the clean vertical wall on the left. There is a diagonal crack running up this which can be well protected with cams. Climb this to the top.}.

'''Damn You Newton''' (VS 4c)* 23m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 8 June 2015 ''Start is 3m to the right of TBHL and 2m back from the right hand edge of De Northside face. The climb goes up an obvious large leg jamb sized crack which requires a big hex/cam. Climb this with strong moves to gain a foothold to push up to the top of the crack (crux).Trend right past the overhang and move into De Alcove area. Cross this and head for the middle of the slab straight ahead (a little down from the rhododendron stumps). Make a delicate step up right at the obvious lower point. Move up briefly straight (protection placements) and then trend right for the small block on the skyline on your right and finish left around this.

'''Indian Summer''' (S 4a)** 24m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard – 27 Sept 14 ''At the right hand end of De Northside face immediately past Damn You Newton there is a wide crack on the right side of the slab leading to a small ledge at 2m. Surmount this and move up a crack above to an angled grassy bank at 6m to enter De Alcove. Move straight across De Alcove and straight up to the right of the rhododendron stumps following the obvious crack on up to the top. 

===Southside===

Southside Topo:
[[File:DeerParkSouth2.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Topo (right) - De Southside [click to enlarge]''

[[File:DeerP South1.jpg|center|700px|]]

''Deer Park Southside Topo (different angle)''

'''Eva Lution''' (HS 4a)* 29mPR: M ''Ian Christie, Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 25 Sept 14 ''Just before the track junction going up to De Southside face there is a prominent outcrop of rock about 3m high. Climb this (bouldering start) and continue up over boulders to a right trending crack. Up this to a prominent nose (~10m). Go right of this then immediately back left and up a left trending ramp then straight up to the top.

'''Ali Baba''' (MS 4a)*** 29m PR: G ''Ian Christie, Kevin Coakley – May 15 ''Climb “Eva Lution” but at the top of the right trending crack stay right onto the arête and then keep right on the arête until you can step out on to the main face. Continue up this to the top.

'''We Do This For Fun?''' (HVS 5a)*** 17m PR: G (cams required) ''Colm Peppard – 4 June 2015 ''Climb goes through the clear gap on the left side of the large blocky overhang. Start is 4m up from the path junction on the left through the 2nd narrow opening where there is a clear rock ramp. Follow the obvious crack moving diagonally right to gain the shelf below the gap in the overhang. Climb straight up just left of the gap to under the overhang (and get a cam in!). Make a brave pull up to seek out a good hold over the top for the fully committed swing across right to gain a foothold to surmount the overhang (crux). There are great holds for this but they have to be found. Above the overhang you have a choice. 1) Step up left and climb the short angled face on your right with the large crack (the original lead). 2) Move up right and climb straight up the slight overhang on the main face using the first crack on the right for a nice vertical finish.

'''Lay Back & Think Of Ireland’s Eye''' (VS 4b)** 17m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Ian Christie – 27 Sept 2014 ''In the middle of De Southside face is a large blocky overhang. This climb takes the obvious line up the right hand side of this. Start is 6m up from the path junction on the left through the largest (3rd) opening. Climb blocky slab on the right side trending rightwards.Move over to your right to climb around and up the right side of the overhang at the large crack (medium cam). Make a committed move to surmount the slight overhang(crux).Follow the crack leftwards to the small alcove above where you have a choice. 1) Make a delicate swing out right onto the faceand climb straight up to the top (the original lead). 2) Climb straight up the alcove for a satisfying direct finish.

'''Dempsey’s Rocky Road''' (VS 4b) 24m ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie – 2015 ''On De Southside face start on a diagonal crack to the left of the obvious promontory (“the pulpit”) . Climb the crack rightwards and clamber on to the top of the pulpit, continue to the right and surmount the vertical crack and bulge (crux) with a good placement below the crux move (as per LB&ToIE). When you make easier ground traverse out to the right and finish up the Arete.

'''Two Bagger Arête''' (HS 4a) 12m PR: M/G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 15 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 2nd arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is through the next opening up from LB&ToIE (4th opening) Move up around right until the 2nd arête is directly above you with a distinct ‘nose’ jutting out as an overhang. At ground level climb the smooth face immediately below the arête with the thin crack (crux) to gain a mini pinnacle just right of the arête. Step across left to gain the arête and proceed up delicate moves directly to the top (ignoring the tempting gully to the left). PR: M/G – Protection is good but there is a short run out at the top (hence HS 4a rating). The top has good hand and footholds and can be bailed either left or right if desired so PR M/G.

'''Three Bagger Arête''' (VS 4c)* 12m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Gary Smith – 27 June 2015 ''As for Two Bagger Arête but instead move left around the underside of the nose (protection placement) and make a committed pull up and step right to surmount the nose. PR: G – On the basis that once you’ve hauled yourself over the nose the short run out at the top won’t bother you!

'''Did Anyone See My Golf Ball?''' (S4a) 13m PR: G ''Colm Peppard, Kevin Coakley – 9 June 2015 ''The climb follows a direct line from bottom to top going up just left of the 1st arête in from the right hand edge of De Southside face. Start is just right of Two Bagger Arete. Climb up the small alcove and move slightly right to follow a direct line up the left side of the arête ignoring the tempting gully to the left.

'''Fire Alarm''' (VD 3a) 12m ''Kevin Coakley, Colm Peppard – 2015 ''At the extreme right of De Southside face this climb goes up to the right of the arête where a block seems to stand by itself. Clamber up onto a good ledge and climb the groove without dislodging the large loose boulder. At the top climb the cracks to the left to top out easily.

==Sutton to Baily==

From the metal gate at the Sutton start of the Cliff Walk (Strand Rd//Shielmartin Rd), follow the footpath past the Martello Tower. A short distance further on is a yellow warning sign and 50m further on it is possible to descend to the sea and move back under the sign to the base of fine looking slab at least 18m high at its left side. The base of the slab is affected by high tide. This is

===Warning Sign Slab===

Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88

'''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.

'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb.. 

===Red Rock===

''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6

''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''

'''Steps Slab''' (V Diff 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From the steps, the slab is climbed on either the right or, better, the left. Worthwhile. It can also be tackled from 2m left up a short wall at a surprisingly easy standard..

''6-8m left is a short steep red wall which is an obvious (unclimbed?) challenge.''

'''Bucket and Slab''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''From below the steep red wall climb the slab to below the recess on the left of the red wall. Climb steeply into the recess (with gorse bush). Exit left..

''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''

'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002. ''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear.. '''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up.. '''Toasted''' (Severe 10m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.. 

Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.

'''Punt''' (V Diff 12m) ''Jim Cooper, December 2001 ''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb.. '''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m) 4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m) ''Jim Cooper, January 2002 ''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb. '''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m) ''Jim Cooper?, January 2002 ''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile. 

===Martello Wall===

''Martello Wall location'': https://goo.gl/maps/NxTs2EV2WovCTJFx8

100+m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.

[[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]

'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c) ''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020 ''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts. 

'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m) ''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi ''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays. 

===Sheep Hole Cliffs===

Sheep Hole is below the Cliff Walk at the east end of this length, 5-600 m beyond the previous cliff. I cannot be sure to what feature the name, Sheep Hole, applies. There are a number of holes underneath the cliff at this point. All this length is tide affected.

The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.

'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem. 

'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb. 

'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb up the front of this promontory. 

'''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''

'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m) ''Jim Cooper, February 2002 ''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound. 

===Ayton’s Cave===

''Aytons Cave Location:'' https://goo.gl/maps/miFVHRNLGKoQBDaAA

A cave found in the area of the "Sheep Hole Cliffs", a number of difficult bouldering problems are found here, cave is effected by the tide. For more details see Short Span: http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php or 27 Crags.

===Mussel Cove (with Block)===

''Mussel Cove Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/VSqDMAKoZVL9a6h89

After Sheep Hole the Cliff Walk by-passes a headland (not Drumleck Point). The east {further)side of the headland forms a shingle cove that contains a large rectangular block 7-8m high.

The two shore-facing sides of the Block may provide high standard sport (highball bouldering) barely affected by the tide and with good landings. The top of the block is accessible by scrambling from the seaward facing side of the block. This has been climbed but not recorded.

The east facing side of the cove has a large cliff 12+m high. The better looking rock to the left is tide affected. I am told Mick Kellett and friends have made 4-5 climbs on this section.

There is an obvious central corner dividing the good from not so good rock (climbed by Des Doyle, no details).

'''Unnamed?''' (V Diff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001 ''Starting from the base of this corner (but not the corner) is a vague rightwards trending rake that is climbed on, sometimes, dubious rock.

===Rusty Wall===

''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7

''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one established route "Interdimensional Fucker" is found here .''

'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m''' ''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018 ''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead. 

[[File:InterdimensionalF.jpeg|center|400px|InterdimensionalF.jpeg]]

 '''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''

===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/jaAUgAw6Mx7vsVK96

This Cove is reached by some steps which tunnel through the vegetation.

On the south west facing side of the cove is Triffid Slab that may be up to 15m high. There is a rotten chimney in the middle. If belays can be established at the top (which looks problematic without fixed gear), 4 or 5 climbs should prove worthwhile.

'''Triffid Climb''' (Sev/VDiff 12+m) ''Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001''

''The right hand edge/rib of the slab is a good climb at a modest standard but without any apparent protection. To get off this route required a frightening battle with the Triffids (escaped South African Fig Plant?).''

''To the right of the Triffid Slab is a Red Dyke Wall. Though this wall reaches from the cliff base, up the slope, to the top, nowhere does it appear to exceed a vertical height of about 6-7m. If the rock is any good there must be possibilities here.''

===The Needles (aka The Candlesticks)===

Needles Location: https://goo.gl/maps/Mi8nwGEqX33HbJ5f6

Note: A lot of birdlife around the needles, best to avoid.

From Sandy Cove a shore level traverse brings you opposite the two stacks called the Candlesticks. Both are fully exposed at low tide.

Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott climbed them in 1949. The bigger one (“quite difficult”, 8-10m) is an obvious challenge.

Immediately east of the Candlesticks is Hippy Hole. This is an east facing cliff of some apparent size and forbidding looks. Access looks as though it may be via a traverse from the Candlesticks at a suitable state of the tide.

Half way between the Candlesticks and the Great Baily is Lion’s Head dividing Doldrum Bay from Glenaveena. There may be a cliff on the west side but I have no idea about access.

On the South West facing side of the Great Baily promontory are two or three sections of cliff that may be worth exploring. Apart from sea level traverses, access may be difficult (abseils down steep grass?).

==Baily to Howth Village==

There are three kilometres of extensive and intimidating sea cliffs on the east of Howth Head between the Nose of Howth at the north end and the Great Baily at the south end. Bill Perrott records “About 20 routes, of varying degree of interest and standard, have been made around here by the Old IMC. These usually take the form of cracks or chimneys; there are also one or two traverses. The usual length of the more vertical climbs does not exceed 60 feet. It is suggested that a continuous traverse from the Nose of Howth to the Baily would be the best expedition!!” It would be interesting if descriptions of any of these routes exist.

===Webs Castle Rock===

Webs Castle Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/8rYux21oUtYEMtZx7

[[File:Webscastlerock.jpg|center|400px|]]

Gerry Moss with Liam Convery refer to some climbs that I understand to have been done on Webb’s Castle Rock, the pyramidal buttress accessible from above, on the south side of Whitewater Brook Bay (north side of the Great Baily). Poor rock is reported!.

===Puck's Rocks===

Pucks Rocks location: https://goo.gl/maps/VTkZB5xAqFNdB9qn9

From the parking place at the end of Balscadden Road follow the Cliff Walk for a few metres and then take a slight track down to the sea at Puck's Rock. There is a square-cut zawn here where Des Doyle and friends have climbed interesting routes of about 15 to 20m up the back wall of the zawn and across the same wall and up the oposite face and corner. There has also been some bouldering at this location, see link below;

Flotsam, 7B+ (at Pucks Rock): https://27crags.com/videos/14539

===Kilrock Quarry===

Kilrock Quarry location: https://goo.gl/maps/gs6S7h54jQ7V9o1H6

Kilrock Quarry above the car park (commonly used for the "cliff walk") at the Howth village (Balscadden Rd) end of the Cliff Walk. The rock face is up to 15m? The quarry is sometimes climbed with top rope as the rock doesn't always have features for placing protection. No known recorded routes.

[[File:KilrockQuarry.png|center|700px|]]

===Cat Rock===

Cat Rock location: https://goo.gl/maps/XRxXH4zya4rSK8bGA

Small rocky outcrop off of Balscadden Road, about 15 meters out to sea. Two recorded routes on the side visible from the road, one of which is a trad route, the other a deep water solo route. Far side of the rock has not been looked at yet for routes.

Approach from Balscadden Road, jump over a wall, and scramble down to the concrete structure.

'''Fizzecca''' (HVS/E1 5a/5b?) ''Tyler Grundstrom and Jessica Bowen 25/Jul/2016 ''15m. On the inland side of the rock, climb the obvious overhanging crack in the middle of the rock. Belay at low tide.
Rock isn't always solid so make sure you check - but it's not too bad. 

'''Black Carrot DWS''' (4a french grade?) ''Chris acDhuibhne 2019 ''Deep water solo route. Righthand side of the landslide face. High tide recommended. 

[[File:BlackCarrot.jpeg|center|400px|]]

===Balscadden Bay===

Con Cormican climbed some routes nearby in Balscadden Bay but where or what is unknown.

==Inland==

===Ben Howth Outcrops===

In addition to the Deer Park Crag mentioned above, there are 4 or 5 small outcrops on the south west and north west side of Ben Howth below a subsidiary summit about 700m north west of the main summit with the mast. The rock is mostly excellent and the views are especially fine. Access is through the quarry on Windgates Road.

Lowest Outcrop (5-8m high) facing west with a pillar on the left forming a cave.

· The pillar is Hard Severe, · The crack out of the cave looks about 5a/b, · The right side of the cave is V Diff to Severe, · The steep rib to the right formed by rock resembling red concrete is Severe, · The wall right of the rib (of more red concrete) is Severe. Beware of the loose final hold if you finish direct! All Jim Cooper, Autumn 2001

Just above is a north west facing outcrop.

Further up near the hill top is another north west facing outcrop.

About 50-100m south east of the above is another south west facing outcrop.

To the north and facing north is at least one more outcrop which from a distance looks less attractive.

Knockmore

2021-04-13T13:54:40Z

Damien O'Sullivan: Information on access.

This is the half-mile long limestone cliff, up to 100 m high, above Derrygonnelly, on the L 57 Garrison road. (Grid Ref. 085507, Sheet 17).

Access to this crag is very sensitive and climbers should consider not going there until the access situation improves.

'''UNNAMED ROUTE''' 65m 
''Brooke, Cobley, Clarke'' 
Start in chimney at the centre of the crag looking right. 1) Climb to choke, 9m, thread belay beneath rotting tree (very loose). Tight chimney to rocky spur. out and over to tree. Very good belay and stance. 2) Into chimney, up boulder. Climb up right hand wall, turn around and continue up to large boulder jammed in chimney, then out left and up loose finish.

''Right of Unnamed Route is a large buttress of rock with a deep, greyish right-facing corner crack system steeply overhanging at the base -''

'''MACHINE NUT CRACK''' 77m E1 5a, 4b 
''D.Stelfox, R.Lawson 13th June 1982'' 
1) 40m Starting on the left side move up and right, through the main overhangs and strenuously up the crag above. The rock deteriorates as grade eases to a good belay ledge on the left. 2) 37m The chimney crack above is climbed, on rock to start, gradually degenerating into steep grass. If the grass is wet this section will probably be the crux and it may be wise to leave a rope hanging from the top. Belay stake in place in a slight dip beyond rock at top of crag.

'''LAXATIVE GULLY''' VS 
''J.Dixon, P.Lord July 1968'' 
Start right of centre of crag. 1) Up grass and rock to gully 2) Up gully to top then chimney up. Up left hand wall to top. Dicult rock is very good.

''The following two routes have also been recorded on the crag, where I do not know! The available descriptions are enclosed for completeness.''

'''ROOKERY NOOK''' 30m S 
''Rogers, Orr 1965'' 
Start 1/4 mile to the left of a quarry at the top edge of a huge cave formed by a fallen slab. 1) 6m. Walk up gully. 2) 24m. Up to chockstone then on up. Exit is dodgy on wall.

'''CHIMNEY ROUTE''' 
''Fulton, Rogers 1968'' 
Chimney up behind huge flake to chockstone. Continue up main face to exit on loose pebbly rock.

''This massive limestone crag sports but two new routes in its entire length- and finding them isn't easy. But the incentive to climb, or at least look at,Ireland's only (at one time) bolted sports climbs, complete with French grades, may be just enough to keep you searching through the under-growth. Walk along the road on top of the crag (which starts at the far right-hand end) for about 15 minutes until some trees start to appear - as if by magic - on your left. Keep your eyes peeled for a belay stake near the fence and an ash tree with a piece of tat on it. Congratulations. You are now above The Epic McClintock! Alternatively, do what everyone does. Walk along the base of the crag, to the primordial forest on the left and thrash your way through for several minutes until you see the bolts on a buttress up to your right.''

'''THE EPIC MCCLINTOCK''' Fr7a+ E5 6a/b 
''A. Millar & N. Grimes October '91'' Basically abseil down the route (or scramble a gully 100m to the right from the top) and climb back up the wall following (and resting on) the bolts. Repeat this until you '...have the power to string all the moves together

'''PADDY ON SITE''' E1 5c 
''N Grimes, A. Millar '90'' 
A route of more historical than aesthetical value, it was the first bolted route put up here - laying the foundation for future generations of sports climbers. About 100m deeper into the land that time forgot, (or to the right if you're on the top), there's the easy descent gully/ramp.PADDY goes past the first three bolts here and lowers off the fourth.

''Behind the main cliff, a concrete farm road leads through a rocky valley. On the left side of the road behind a low band of cliffs there rises a steep compact limestone crag about 20 metres high, broken and less steep on the left. About a third of the way in from the left start at a clean section with a groove just left of a bush on the cliff.''

'''JALLA SAID CALL IT THE FIELD''' 15m E2 5c ''Jimmy Walsh, Raymond Hassard May 1993'' 
Climb the groove on clean rock trending left then right.

Gap Of Dunloe

2021-03-27T17:19:53Z

Damien O'Sullivan: /* Cub Crag. */

What follows is 99% originally edited by Richard Stack. Thanks to Richard for allowing us to include the guide in the database.

A '1' AFTER A ROUTE NAME MEANS THAT THE ROUTE HAS HAD ONLY ONE ASCENT, DUE TO THE LACK OF ASCENTS MANY OF THE GRADES MAY BE INACCURATE. OVER 50 % OF THE ROUTES HAVE NOT HAD A THIRD ASCENT.

==PUBLISHER'S NOTE==
The sport described in this book is an inherently dangerous activity and any person, especially if inexperienced, undertaking it, should approach it with caution and under appropriate supervision. The publisher and contributors cannot accept responsibility for any accidents, injury or loss suffered by any reader of this book however it may be caused. All descriptions and grades are offered as suggestions only and are not to be taken as definitive.

==ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS==
I would like to thank all the climbers who have contributed to this guide book, particularly Peter Costelloe, Aidan Forde, Con Moriarty, Donie Mulcahy and Tim Long. Aidan Forde wrote the sections on geology and natural history. Cathal Cudden did all the art work.

==Introduction==
Due to the fact that there has been no guide, unpredictable weather and a very small number of local based climbers, the amount of climbing that has been done in Kerry has been limited. Due to the lack of ascents many of the grades may be inaccurate. It is hoped that this guide will bring the grading of climbs into line with the rest of the country. This guide should only be considered as a preliminary guide.

There have been a number of routes done on the smaller crags but these haven't been included.
A point worth noting is that the majority of all new routes done in the Gap were done on sight without prior inspection or cleaning.
Care should be taken when descending from the crags especially at night as there are a lot of holes between the boulders.
Like all inland crags the Gap has an over healthy-population of midges, so if it's calm don't arrive without midge repellent !

[[File:Gap1.gif]]

[[File:Gap2.gif]]

<googlemap version="0.9" lat="52.035023" lon="-9.58864" zoom="12">
52.030136, -9.632113
Bothán
52.036583, -9.63177
Céim
52.033236, -9.637252
Breannan's Leap
52.032292, -9.640557
West Side Crags
52.009774, -9.644988
Jigsaw Wall
</googlemap>

==Guide Updates==
An updated copy of the guide is held at the bar in Kate Kearneys Cottage. Any new routes can be written into this guide. Any comments on grades or route descriptions are welcome.

An updated version of the guide has been produced by Richard Creagh

[[File:Gap of Dunloe updated guide.pdf|link=Special:FilePath/Gap_of_Dunloe_updated_guide.pdf]]

==Access==
To date there have been very few problems and it will remain so as long as there is no interference or distraction to the horses. Only climb near the road late in the evening or when it is very quiet. When parking keep your car well in off the road and park only at the really obvious areas as trucks/tractors use the road as well as the Jaunting Cars. When using the area always remember that all the land is privately owned. On busy Summer days it is quicker to walk from Kate's car park due to the fact that there can be hundreds of cyclists and strollers in the Gap on a weekend day.

==Geology==
The rock in the Gap of Dunloe (and in all of the Cork and Kerry mountains) is Old Red Sandstone. This sedimentary rock was formed 350 million years ago in the beds and flood plains of very large rivers that carried eroded sediment southwards from mountain ranges in what we now know as Donegal and Mayo. These rivers flowed into a broad landlocked basin in what is now Cork and Kerry and the sediment was deposited in the rivers' flood plains and channels as they entered the basin. The basin was subsiding as the sediment was deposited (like Death Valley today) and eventually over 6,000m thickness of sediment was deposited.

The sands and gravel transported by the rivers were rich in iron and because these were deposited in contact with the air in a desert environment, this iron turned to iron oxide. This iron oxide (also called rust) coated the grains of quartz that make up the sandstone and gave it the reddish colour that is a striking feature of the local scenery.

As the rock was laid down in shallow water it formed layers when the sediment was carried suddenly by floodwaters. These layers are called beds and they have been preserved in the solid rock as the horizontal breaks (bedding) that are characteristic of the climbing here. Also common are smaller bedding plains that occur between the larger ones and at an angle to them. This cross-bedding shows the direction of flow of the river at the time the sediment was deposited. Preserved current ripples (similar to ripples seen in the sand at a beach) can also be used to find the ancient flow direction. The steeper face of the ripple is the downstream side. These ripples are common on the scree of Póirse Gully.

Although bedding was originally horizontal, it is now commonly folded into waves. This occurred 270 million years ago when the beds were crumpled into folds by the force of the earth's plates colliding when the local mountains were formed. The bedding throughout the Gap is folded.

Folding wasn't the only result of the mountain-building process. As the rocks were subjected to great pressures they commonly fractured. Sometimes the two sides of a fracture moved due to the pressure and a fault was formed. Most of the steep gullies in the Gap are faults. However, if the fracture was infilled with pure crystalline quartz, a vein was formed. These veins are common in the Gap and the white quartz may be mixed with a soft green mineral, chlorite. Chlorite is especially common along bedding plains that have acted as faults.

==Glaciation==
The bedrock of the Gap is just one part of the formation of the climbing crags here. The various glaciations of the ice age were just as important in the formation of the cliffs. During the most recent glaciation, from 120,000 to 15,000 years ago, the ice moved north from an ice cap near Kenmare before coming up against the barrier of the McGillycuddy's Reeks. This ice flowed around the Reeks to the east near Killarney and to the west around the Caragh River valley. As the ice level dammed up against the Reeks it eventually reached their lowest point. Like water flowing over a dam, the ice flowed over the low point of the Reeks, cut deeply into the mountain and formed the Gap as it did so. Because this is a place where the ice broke through a barrier, it is called a glacial breach and the Gap is a famous example of such a feature. The climbing crags are therefore the result of the erosion caused by this glacier flowing to the north. The lakes of the Gap are also due in part to erosion where the glacier cut into the bedrock floor and also due in part to material that was eroded upstream and dumped downstream as mounds of loose rocky debris. Such piles of eroded material are called moraines and there are several good examples on the floor of the Gap, to the east and north of the Black Lake. These moraines are the reason for the lakes existence as they dammed the valley when the ice finally melted away.

==Fauna & Flora==
The types of life found in the Gap of Dunloe are controlled to a large degree by the geology and climate of the area. The acidic rocks and the relatively infertile moraine soils derived from the same rocks make for a reduced flora that is adapted to life in these nutrient-poor conditions. In addition to these factors the area receives about 2500mm of rain a year. The constant flow of water through the ground has had the effect of leaching the iron (these rocks are rich in iron) from between the grains of quartz, in the rocks and soil profile. At one level it is deposited as a layer of iron (iron pan) and this effectively seals off the drainage of the soil. When this happens the effect of the constant wetting is compounded by the water-logging of the soil from the lack of drainage. This starts the formation of blanket bog and except in better areas, the entire Gap is covered in it.

Heather is the dominant plant on the-walk in to the crags. There are three species present and the most common is Ling Heather. This has very small leaves, just visible to the naked eye and packed closely together. Bell Heather has larger linear leaves and flowers positioned at various points on the stem. It is similar to Cross Leaved Heather which has flowers only at the top of the stem in a tight bunch, all facing the same way. The Cross Leaved Heather also has very small hairs on its leaves. Some very rare heathers grow in Connemara but the three described are the only common heathers in Ireland.

In spring, look out for the Giant Butterwort and Sundew in boggy pools at the base of the crags. These plants have sticky enzyme-tipped hairs that trap insects on their leaves. This is an adaptation to the very nutrient-poor condition of the soil - the insect bodies are digested by the plant and essential minerals are obtained.

An interesting tree growing on some of the bigger ledges, to the left of The High Buttress is the Aspen. This native tree is very common in the Rockies for example but is fairly scarce here in Ireland. Its Latin name is Populus Tremula from the way in which its leaves vibrate rapidly in the slightest breeze.

Look out for displays of crustose lichens on the rocks around the Gap. The crustose term refers to the way in which they are so closely attached to the rock, almost like paint. These plants are a mixture of alga and fungus. The alga can manufacture food from sunlight whereas fungus cannot. However the fungus provides a substrate for the alga and in some cases liberates essential materials from the rock that the alga can use. Each plant needs the other and lichens are a good example of this kind of co-dependence called symbiosis. Of the many different colonies covering the rock surface, look out for the one that look like a map - this species is called Rhizocarpon Geographicum.

St. Patricks Cabbage is a common plant in the Gap but is unusual elsewhere. It has small white flowers at the end of a long stalk and shiny leaves in a basal rosette. These leaves are spatula-shaped with teeth at the end. This is one of the saxifrage family, meaning rock-breaker in latin.

Bracken is an extremely abundant fern here and in the summer may reach several feet in height. Some of the scree slopes higher up have large strands of Male Fern (the name is not the sex of the plant). The leaf stalks in these ferns all rise from a common base and later in the summer the backs of the leaves will be crowded with the tiny cases from which millions of spores are released.

The Choughs that live in the area may entertain you with displays of acrobatics. These rare crows have curved red bills and red legs. They are closely related to the Alpine Chough (often seen around huts in the Alps) which has red legs but a yellow bill. It is a bird of sea cliffs but the Gap is one of the very few places where it breeds inland. Choughs are now nearly extinct in England and rare in Wales but they are still reasonably common on the west coast of Ireland.

There are quite a few Ravens around the Gap and together with the Grey Crow and the Fox are the largest scavengers in the area. The location of a sheep carcass is often indicated by the movement of these crows and they become particularly active in the Spring when the sheep are lambing.

While belaying keep an eye on the Black Lake, especially the upper end, for Otters. The river running through the Gap has a number of areas of good Otter habitat and Otters have been seen from the crags in the past.

In wet weather the rocks around the Gap display many Kerry Slugs feeding on the aforementioned lichens. This species has light brown spots on a dark brown body and will curl up in a ball when disturbed (it is the only slug that will do this). The Kerry Slug has a "Lusitanian" distribution in Europe. This means that it occurs along the western shoreline of Europe but not in the interior, even though it is not a coastal dwelling species. This is in contrast to the usual plant and animal species distribution in Europe where more species occur towards the centre and less towards the margins. Other species occurring in the Killarney area such as the Irish Spurge and the Arbutus also have a Lusitanian distribution.

Note : If cleaning new routes, it is advisable to know the plants that occur on the cliffs (there aren't that many of them) and to avoid damaging any that are unusual or protected. Do not approach or otherwise disturb cliff-dwelling birds at any time of the year but be especially careful from April to July when the birds are nesting.

==Grading==
The usual adjectival and numerical (technical) grading systems have been used as follows :
M Moderate
D Difficult
VD Very Difficult
MS Mild Severe
S Severe 3c,4a.
HS Hard Severe 4a,4b
VS Very Severe 4b,4c,5a
HVS Hard Very Severe 4c,5a,5b.
E1 Extremely Severe 5a,5b,5c
E2 5b,5c,6a
E3 etc. 5c,6a,6b etc

It should be noted that many of the routes have not had second ascents, these have a '1' after the route name. The accepted star grading system is used with three stars being reserved for the routes of highest quality. Again the star grading system is suggestive rather than definitive and newer routes in particular may be deserving of more or fewer stars than indicated. An absence of stars does not mean that a route is not worth doing.

Where there was some dispute over the grade, two grades were given e.g. HVS/E1 5b/5c. This means that route is most likely HVS 5b but possibly E1 5c. Also if there was some doubt over the technical grade an alternative grade is put in brackets. e.g. E2 5c(6a).

==Mountain Rescue==
In the event of an accident, where assistance is required, dial 112 and ask for Mountain Rescue. The nearest telephone is at Kate Kearneys Cottage. Give grid references and the name of the crag if possible.

==Protection==
Due to the horizontal nature of many of the crack lines, small camming devices, especially those with flexible stems prove very useful in the Gap. On many of the routes Flexible Friends are the main source of protection.

==Using the Guide==
The various crags are described starting on the east (left) side of the valley and working south up the Gap and then the routes on the western side of the valley are described in the same manner. Climbs on each face are described from left to right. Climbs thats are not numbered on the topos are newly added.

==Céim - East Side of the Gap==
About a mile up the road from Kates, there is a path to the left which leads to the river Loe (this is the river flowing out of the Black Lake). Cross the stepping stones and follow the path up to the old house. Go straight past the house and down into a small valley where the crag is situated (100 metres from the house).
Céim is very sheltered from the wind and the rain and due to the fact that it is overhanging in places some routes remain dry on wet days.

[[File:Céim.jpg|700px|link=Special:FilePath/Céim.jpg]]

'''GUINEVERE, THE WATERY TART''' 15m HVS 5b
B. Hall, D. Dowling March 2012
The true line that cuffs crap starts up. Instead of escaping right into the corner system with the tree stump, continue leftwards to climb the intimidating overhanging v-groove which is easier than it looks. Excellent protection. (Direct: Climb the white wall and overhang direct on positive side pulls. Bold start. E1 5b B. Hall, J. Hale)

'''1:CUFF'S CRAP''' 15m VS 4c
M Shea, P. Cuff . Summer 1985
Start under the overhanging corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the steps up to the corner (above the tree), finishing up the corner.

'''2:THE BLACK STUFF''' 15m HVS 5b
R. Stack, I. Counihan. 21/10/90
The obvious line to the right of Cuff's Crap. Climb on good holds to a small overhang, surmount this and move slightly right, then climb over a bulge on the corner to the top

'''3:MOONDANCE''' * 15m VS 4c
D. Tagney, A. Forde. 12/10/94
Start 1m right of The Black Stuff under a small white-stained overhang. Climb straight to the ledge, then up and step onto a small ledge. Move up and right to the top.
VARIATION: Instead of moving right continue up the left-facing corner (VS 4c).

'''4:SEAN NÓS''' 15m HVS 5a
M Shea, C. Corrigan. Summer '90
Start under a square block (about 3m up). Climb over this and continue straight up to the ledge. Finish as for Miss Piggy. Poor protection.

'''5:THE GREAT WAR''' * 15m HVS/E1 5a
R. Stack, G.Stack. 11/11/90
Start 1m left of the arete left of Miss Piggy. Climb to the overhang (good wire around corner on right) and straight to the top.

'''6:MISS PIGGY''' 17m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack July '89 and re-climbed August '91 after removal of large blocks
Climb the obvious corner (left of Titanic) to the ledge, then traverse left for 1.5m and climb the obvious crack to the top.

'''ARACHNOPHOBIA''' 12m HVS 5b
B. McSweeney, E. Kennedy, O. O’Regan 3/8/03
Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.

'''7:THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN''' 12m HVS 5a/E1 5b (1) [between A6 and A7]
D. O’Toole 27/10/01
Boulder start off the horizontal crack of A7. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.

'''8:TITANIC''' ** 12m VS 4b
M Shea, P. Cuff. Summer 1985
Short but steep. Climb the hand crack on the right hand side of the crag.

'''9:THE PRODIGAL SON''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 15/9/91.
Climb the thin line 2-3m to the right of Titanic.

==Bothán - East Side of the Gap==
This buttress is situated directly above Black Stream Bridge on the east side of the valley. Walk 100m past the bridge to two small quarried areas on the left hand side of the road, from here head straight up to the crag. It can be quite exposed to wind, which is good if the midges are out, but bad if it‟s cold. The crag dries quickly after rain and seepage isn‟t a problem on most routes. West facing; a good spot for evening sunshine.

[[File:Bothán.jpg|700px|link=Special:FilePath/Bothán.jpg]]

'''''LEFT BUTTRESS'''''

'''APRIL SUNSHINE''' 15m M S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start about 3m left of "The Ego Has Landed", climbing the left corner of the lower face, proceed up the middle of the second section, getting behind the holly tree. Good holds, but poor protection.

'''1:THE EGO HAS LANDED''' 15m VS 4c
A.Forde, I.Counihan. 15/9/90
Arete above a large ledge on the extreme left of the buttress. Protection is sparse.

'''2:FIRST COME FIRST SERVED''' * 15m VS 4b
T. Long, D. Mulcahy. 6/4/95
Climb the line between The Ego Has Landed and Agent Orange. Climb directly up to the crackline and continue straight up to the top.

'''3:AGENT ORANGE''' 15m HS 4b
I.Counihan, A.Forde. 15/9/90
Large crack and corner on the left hand side of the buttress.

'''FULCRUM''' 20m HVS 5a
R. Stack, C. Cudden, A. Forde 15/5/93
This route is between 3 and 4. Climb up to a ledge (overhanging) and then up the left side of the face above to another ledge. Continue up existing over a small overhang at the top.

'''4:PRIVATE INVESTIGATIONS''' * 20m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Shea. August '86
Climb up left of the overhang to gain a ledge. From the ledge step right and climb up to another ledge. Veer left at the blank face and climb over a small overhang near the top.

'''5:LJUBLJANA''' ** 20m E1 5c
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Start to the right of Private Investigations, climb the face onto the ledge, climb over the obvious protruding spike and then over the overhang and continue straight to the top.

'''6:DISCO LEGS''' ** 20m E3 5c
P. Hoy 4/9/99 (climbed past crux previously but was unclaimed)
Between B5 and B6, straight to roof, pocket, sidepull (not the loose one on the left), direct to top past sloping breaks. Finish up the crack of Raven. Pumpy but protection is good.

'''7:RAVEN''' ** 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, K.Tarrant. 1985
This climb is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb through the obvious breech in the overhang to a small quartz vein, traverse left and ascend the crack. Protection is poor at the start. A variation is to traverse half way across and climb over the small overhang (5a).

'''8:BUGLER''' 20m VS 4b
C. Moriarty, A.Devlin. 1985
Start as for Raven but continue straight to the top (over a holly bush). Protection is poor at the start.

'''9:FIACH DUBH''' 15m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D.Dineen. 02/05/10.
Start as for Raven. Standing on the first ledge arrange gear in the crack, then step out right onto the face gaining good holds. Go straight to the top from here, keeping left of a small bush and going past a short slab and through the overhang at 3/4 height. Beware of loose rock.

'''10:RESPECT''' 15m HVS 5a
B. O’Dwyer, E. Lawless 21/4/00
Start just to the right of the arete to the right of Bugler. A poorly protected dynamic move over the bulge (long reach helps). Tend leftwards along the obvious line to the top.

'''11:ADRIAN'S ROUTE''' 12m VS 4c
A. Devlin (Solo). 1985
This route is on the far right of the buttress 3-4m around the corner from Bugler. Climb the faint overhanging corner, move right and climb straight to the top. The most difficult moves are at the start where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BACK OR BRAIN''' 6m VS 4b
I. Counihan, R. Stack. 14/4/91
Start 2-3m to the right of Adrian's Route. Start on a small ledge right of a large holly tree. Climb the obvious line veering slightly right towards the top.

'''BERRY FUNNY''' 6m VDiff
S. Bickerdyke, F. Villain. 14/11/2011
Start right of Back Or Brain. Climb diagonal crack to the right exiting left of holly tree. Not first ascent, first recorded.

'''''RIGHT BUTTRESS'''''

'''SETANTA''' 8m S
Ger Cronin solo 14/4/2014
Start on the first flat rock at the base on the chimney, left of "Akimbo". Climb the right hand wall of the chimney, using the good hand and footholds, climbing slightly left to the highest point of the face. Protection is poor.

'''13:AKIMBO''' * 7m HS 4b/c
J. Behal, C. Cudden 13/9/95
Climb the arete left of The Hobbit. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:THE HOBBIT''' 6m HS 4b
R. Stack, B. Forde. 3/8/91
Climb the slightly overhanging crack left of the obvious corner (which contains a tree.)

'''15:BALDY''' 10m VS 4c
M Shea, B.Galvin Summer '90
Climb the edge of the face to the left of Spider. Protection is poor.

'''16:SPIDER''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty. 1985
Climb up the blank face on the left side of the buttress. This climb weaves back and forth. Protection is poor.

'''16A:CRAZY FROG''' 9m HVS 4c
J Healy, S. Clinton. 2009
Start just left of the small holly tree midway along the base of the climbs. Climb up just left of the tree on sidepulls and undercuts. Crux. Continue directly up to the top. Protection is poor.

'''17:P.O.S.''' 8m V.Diff
R. Stack, P. Cudden. Jan '89
Start about 5m to the right of Spider and climb the obvious line to the top.

==Carraig Ceannann==
This is the most northerly of the cliffs on the western side of the valley. About 1 Km up the Gap turn right and walk up the Cora Road (at the "Going Climbing" sign). Follow this zig zag road up to the nearest point to an obvious white buttress this is lower Carraig Ceannann. A few metres up and around the corner is an obvious off-width crack, this is the line of Moloise. Further left you will come to upper Carraig Ceannann.

[[File:carraig ceannain upper.png|700px]]

'''1:ERICA''' 10m V.Diff
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Start 2m right of the mossy gully on the extreme left hand end of Carraig Ceannann, keeping a small clump of heather on your right hand side. Climb up to a right tending diagonal line, continue along this and exit on an easy right tending ramp at the top.

'''2:EASY ROUTE''' 10m Severe
C. Moriarty (Solo) August '86
This climb is to the right of Erica. Climb the blank face, following no definite line. Protection is poor.

'''3:TAR WARS''' * 20m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
The furthest left crack through the small roof left of Cuchulainn.
1. 15m Climb the crack through the roof (crux) and belay on the grass ledge.
2. 5m Climb the wall behind and slightly right of the first pitch to finish left of the large block on top.

'''4:DIVING FOR PEARLS''' ** 25m E2 5c,5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 15/9/90
1. 15m Start at a narrow chimney 2m right of Tar Wars. Climb this past an upside down slot to another slot. Move up and left to gain the upper wall. Belay on the large ledge above.
2. 10m From the ledge gain a small corner above a rose bush, climb the upper wall on good holds to the left hand side of a large block on top.

'''CHRISTMAS JUMPER''' 30m E2 5b/c
R. Creagh, J. Eldred. 23/11/14 (Toproped beforehand; it was wet and looked harder!)
A bit eliminate but worth a go if you've done the other routes here. Climb Cuchulainn to the holly tree. Move left and climb the wall left of the corner, passing through the overhangs using a few holds common with Cuchulainn but keeping out of the corner proper.

'''5:CUCHULAINN''' ** 30m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty, A. Forde. July '84
This route follows the obvious line to the left of the main overhang. Traverse in from the left to the base of the line. Climb straight up the obvious line to an awkward overhanging niche. Continue to the large ledge (small holly tree in crack) climb straight up the overhanging corner (difficult to protect) and on to the top on good holds.

'''CUCHULAINN-VARIATION''' 28m E1 5b
C.Ryan, T.Mee 11/1/2014
Follow Cuchulainn to the holly bush. From here traverse right up the flat wall and continue up up to the top.

'''6:FERDIA''' ** 26m HVS 5a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. July '84
From the start of Cuchulainn climb up and right into a corner. Climb this to the overhang before breaking out right to a large ledge. Continue up the narrow chimney to the roof before turning awkwardly right again, and up into the final niche. Escape out left and up to the top.

'''7:FERDIA DIRECT''' 40m E2 5c
M Shea, B. Forde. September '89
Instead of traversing from Cuchulainn to the start of Ferdia, start at the lowest point of the line. Climb the line to a small overhang (crux), Move slightly left to surmount this and then onto the original route.

'''8:VALHALLA''' 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 24/4/90
The line immediately right of Ferdia.
1. Start at the crack over the cave, climb directly to the obvious corner (with the bush) to the right. Turn the overhang here by moving out right, continue up and then left to regain the crack, belaying on the obvious ledge.
2. Climb the roof via the crack on the right hand side to complete the route.

'''9:VALHALLA MY ARSE''' ** 30m E1 5c
C. Moriarty, A. Young. June '90
Start as for Valhalla but continue straight up through the overhang, up along the corner and finally up through the top overhang.
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'''9a Texas salad bar *'''
'' VS 4c ''
Gerard Laide, 1/8/2015 
15M. 4b start 4M to the right of Valhalla below a ledge
climb the crack or layback the large flake
climb the slab keep right at the bulge up to the bolder belay here
20M. 4c climb the obvious crack breaking out right onto the face on good holds to a small ledge to right [good cam] 0.4 silver. crux continue up the arete and
Abseil off chain

[[File:Carraig_Ceanann_lower.jpg|400px]]

'''10:GALLARUS ORIFICE''' 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 6/4/90
Climb the left hand side of the back of the alcove 5m to the left of Moloise. Above the holly tree move up and right under a small roof. Traverse up and right to a small ledge. Belay here on a tree further back and to the right. Protection is poor initially.

'''11:MOLOISE''' * 25m HVS 5a/5b
A. Forde (Solo). April '86
Climb the obvious off-width right-tending crack line on the right hand side of the buttress. The most difficult moves are at the start, where the protection is poorest.

'''12:BASH ON REGARDLESS''' *** 25m E1/2 5b/5c
A. Forde, A. Devlin. November '85
This climb is in the corner 5m right of Moloise, Climb the slight corner to the large block. Finish up the face by delicate moves. Protection is poor at the start. Holly tree belay. Abseil or walk off above and to the right.

'''13:BLACK FRIDAY''' *** 20m E2 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Protection is poor initially which accounts for the high grade. Start a few metres right of Bash on Regardless. Climb up to a horizontal quartz vein (at 5m), traverse right to a horizontal finger crack and climb up to a small ledge at half height. Continue up and left to a large flake. Surmount this and move up to a large ledge, move further right to belay on a holly tree (same belay as for April Showers).

'''15:APRIL SHOWERS DIRECT''' * 20m E1 5b
R. Stack, M Shea. 23/6/90
Start in the corner to the left of April Showers, climb the corner to the overhang, move up and right and continue up April Showers. Poor protection at the start.

'''14:APRIL SHOWERS''' 20m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 13/4/90
Left tending line on the extreme right of Carraig Ceannann. Climb the ramp to gain an obvious diagonal crack (poor protection) and then a vertical crack up to the holly tree, hanging belay. Abseil here.
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==D Buttress==
This is a small buttress above and to the left of Carraig Ceannann.

'''THE THIEF''' 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 21/6/92
This climb is left and around the corner from Sadbhóg (facing east). Climb up just left of the right hand edge. Climb up left of some gorse and onto a large ledge, mantle shelf onto a slab and then up a very short corner to the top.

'''SADBHÓG''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Crack line left of Wet Wet Wet. Climb a wide crack (that narrows towards the top) to a triangular block and horizontal crack. Step left and follow a faint crack to the base of a large block. Traverse right under this block and finish up its right hand side.

'''WET WET WET''' 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 28/4/90
Climb the obvious corner and crack line on the right hand end of the buttress.

==Brennans Leap==
This crag is situated on the road side beside the Black Lake (First Lake).

Note:
It is recommended that people don't climb on this crag during the day (between 9 am and 6pm), as climbing activities (rattling of gear and bright colours etc.) can startle the horses carrying people on the road.

[[File:Brenna's_Leap.jpg|700px]]

'''Left Buttress'''

'''1:NANUK''' 8m VS 4b
Unknown
Thin line on the left hand side of the crag. Climb to a ledge at half height and continue straight up to the top (right of some gorse).

'''2:MONKEYS UNCLE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Van Soest. 1980
Climb onto a small ledge above a black water streak on the left hand side of Brennan's Leap. Climb more left, then rightwards and up onto a protruding block, then to the top.

'''MONKEYS UNCLE DIRECT''' 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start right of Monkeys Uncle. Climb the route directly up to the top. Initial moves off the ground are hard (5b).

'''O DONOGHUE'S DISAPPOINTMENT''' 10m VS
Start 1m right of Monkey's Uncle Direct". Climb straight up and finish over the overhang. Protection is very very poor.
Ciarán Campbell, Martin J. O Donoghue, March 2014

'''3:GRANUAILE''' * 10m E1 5b
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 17/9/91
Climb a straight line starting 2m to the left of Cronins Crack. Climb up to the large triangular incut and out over the small overhang (crux) and then continue on better holds to the top. Protection is poor above the crux.

'''4:CRONINS CRACK''' ** 10m HS 4b
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
One of the first routes in the gap and also one of the most popular. Climb the obvious line in the centre of the crag. Protection is adequate.

'''5:FAT BOYS DON'T FALL''' 10m E1 5c
M Shea, Rob. Stack 1990
Climb the left tending line between Cronins Crack and Daffodils. This route is protected from Daffodils.

'''6:DAFFODILS''' * 10m VS 4c
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 1984
Start 3m to the right of Cronins Crack, Climb the obvious prominent left tending crack line.

'''7:RIGHT HAND PARALLEL''' 10m HVS 5a
C. Moriarty. 1983
Start as for Evening Falls, but climb the crack line to the left of it.

'''8:UNKNOWN''' 10m E1 6a
Start left of a block sticking out of the ground and climb straight up through an overlap using
a sloping ledge. Finish up another rout

'''9:RUSH HOUR''' * 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, C. Moriarty. 9/7/90
Climb over a small overhang (left of large overhang) to gain a ledge, move out right onto the face above the overhang and climb to the top.

'''10:EVENING FALLS''' 10m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, M. Sweeney. 1983
Climb the left tending (steep) ramp under the overhang to the ledge, climb straight up the corner to the top.

'''11:DEADLINE''' (1) * 10m E2/3 6a
R. Stack, D. Mulcahy, T. Long. 4/5/95
Climb the overhang on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb to the slot in the overhang and then over the overhang. Continue more easily to the top. Protection is poor at the start.

'''12:MOVIES''' * 10m HVS 4c
C. Moriarty (Solo). 1983
Climb the obvious corner to the right of the main overhang. Protection is poor.

'''Right Buttress'''

'''YANKEE''' 7m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Summer '90
This line is on the left of the buttress. Climb up via a ledge system, keeping a holly tree on your left.

'''WET VISITATIONS''' 7m HS 4b
J. Behal, N. O’Leary 23/6/97
Start 2-3m left of Voodoo. Climb the rightwards tending ramp and then up the obvious crack.

'''SOME KIND OF VOODOO''' 7m VS 4c
P. Costelloe, R. Stack. 17/9/91
This climb is situated in the centre of this buttress. Start under a small overhang (at 3m). Climb over the overhang (up and right) to a right tending ramp. Continue up the ramp to the top.

'''DARBY O'GILL''' (1) 9m HVS 5a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 19/9/91
Start 2m to the left of Sweet Surrender. Climb up under the overhang, move slightly right and over the overhang to gain a small ledge on the left hand side of the arete. Continue on the left of the arete to the top.

'''SWEET SURRENDER''' * 9m E1 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 19/9/94
Climb the obvious thin line on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb over the bulge to the large hand crack and continue up and right to the top.

'''Small crag at first lake, opposite Brennan’s Leap'''

'''O'DONOGHUE'S DIVE''' 5c
A.O’Donoghue solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start at far right of main face on underwater ledge. Climb to horizontal cracks and follow to obvious indentation, then to top. Jump at any time.

'''MORDANT'S MADNESS''' 5a
A. Mordant solo 12/8/03
Access by swimming. Start right of O’Donoghue’s Dive but left of grass patches. Climb overhang.

==Cub Crag.==
This is the most right hand of the lower crags 300m distance above and slightly to the left of Brennans Leap.

[[File:Cub_Crag.jpg|650px]]

'''1:VENTURE SLAB''' 10m Severe
R. Stack, Rob Stack. Jan '89
Start 2-3m to the left of Cub Crack. Climb up 3m to the sloping ledge, traverse 1-2m to the right and continue up to the top.

'''2:CUB CRACK''' 7m V.Diff
R. Stack, Rob. Stack, Jan '89.
Climb the obvious crack line in the middle of the crag

'''3:BATS''' * 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. April '90
Climb the obvious right hand overhanging crack.

'''4:FAR AWAY FRIENDS''' 10m E5 6b Damien O'Sullivan

The route takes the wall between the existing routes of Bats and Gymnasty. The start avoids the crack of gymnasty. Protection can be placed in the first horizontal break which is visible from the ground.

Top-roped first, then climbed with preplaced gear.

'''5:GYMNASTY''' (1) 10m E1 5c
A. Forde, B. Forde. 22/4/90
Climb the arete right of Bats. Start below a steep crack. Climb this and step right and up onto a ledge then up and left to finish.
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==G Buttress==
This is a small north facing crag, at the top of the gully just left of Cub Crag.

'''UNITED AGAIN''' (1) 10m HVS 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
The route is on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious line to the ledge and then up a finger crack to the top.

'''DOWNHEAVEL''' (1) 10m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 4/5/95
Climb up the centre of the face veering slightly right towards the top, finishing on a small ledge.

==H Buttress==
This is a long low wall to the left of Cub Crag.

[[File:H_Buttress.jpg|650px]]

'''1:MANDELA''' 18m HS 4a
R. Stack, Rob. Stack. 3/7/90
This climb is situated on a small buttress, with a large block on top (right of Rescue Rock). Climb up left of a large crack and then straight up to the top.

'''2:TOM''' 8m Severe
R. Stack, P. Cudden. July '89
This climb is on the left hand side of the wall. Climb the thin crack line. Protection is sparce at the very top but the climbing is easy.

'''3:SUNKEN BUSINESS''' 9m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb straight up the face between Tom and Resonate.

'''4:RESONATE''' 10m HS 4b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
Crack line 3m to the right of Tom. Climb to a square cut recess and over a bulge to a ledge.

'''5:JERRY''' 13m VS 4c
R. Stack, Rob Stack. July '89
This climb is to the right of Resonate. Climb to the right of a vegetated line. Climb about 10m to gain a ledge, then go over a small overhang to the top. Protection is poor.

'''6:THE BOULD DOG AND ME''' * 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 2/5/90
Climb the black wall 4m to the right of Jerry. Climb about 10m to a large ledge, then slightly right and over an obvious overhang to the top (as for Jerry).

Note:
The next two routes are on a small recessed wall just to the right of The Bould Dog and Me.

'''7:GAMES WITHOUT FRONTIERS''' 10m HS 4b
R.Stack, G. Stack. 7/10/90
Climb up the middle of the face going over a small overhang at half height.

'''8:THREE IN A BED''' 10m Severe
M. Shea, T. Murphy. Summer '90
Climb the right hand side of the face exiting through a break in the heather at the top.

==Rescue Rock==
There are three small buttresses on the extreme left of the lower crags. The first three routes are on the left hand buttress, and the rest are on the right buttress.

[[File:Rescue_Rock.jpg|650px]]

'''Left Buttress'''

''' 0: NOTHING BETTER TO DO''' 12m VS4c
J Healy, L Calnan. Spring 2012
Left of the Free at Last buttress there is an obvious arete just left of a small tree at 3m. At the base of the arete is a broken crack. Climb the crack to a comfortable ledge. Continue up just left of the arete to gain a vegetated ledge - crux. Climb the slab above to another ledge and a belay on the wall behind. Descend by scrambling down the gully on the R of the climb.

'''1:SKYLINE''' 10m Severe
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
Climb the left hand side of the face.

'''2:FREE AT LAST''' * 10m HVS 5a
M Shea, R. Stack. 9/9/90
Climb the centre of the face (left of Umbongo). Protection is poor.

'''3:UMBONGO''' * 10m Severe
Unknown
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the crag.

'''4:THE CRAZY HORSEMAN''' 9m E5?
??????
Up the middle of the buttress. Escaping right is possible before the overhang at around E1.

'''5:FLIER AND HATTER''' 12m HS 4b
A. Forde solo Jan 2005
Bridge up the chimney left of Siren to gain an indistinct arete on the left. Follow this to top.
Alternatively, start up Rescue Rock and after 5m make a step across the void onto the middle buttress (Severe).

'''6:SIREN''' 10m HS 4b
R. Stack, C. Cudden. 1/4/95
This route is on the left hand side of the right buttress. Climb to a shallow groove near the top, climb through this using a quartz hold on the right.

'''WILLIE ROCKS ROUTE''' 10m E3 6a
W. Rock c2000
Climb the centre of the face between Umbongo and Siren exiting through a break in a small roof.

'''7:RESCUE ROCK''' * 12m Severe
D. Maguire, P. Cronin. 1967
This route is just left of middle up the face of the buttress. Climb straight up from the large ledge and veer slightly right towards the top.

'''8:QUARTZ MOVEMENT''' * 10m VS 4c
R. Stack, T. Long 4/5/95
Start just right of Rescue Rock. Climb the right hand edge of the face.

[[File:MoP_area.jpg|400px]]

'''9:MOTHER OF PRAGUE''' *** 20m E1 5b
I. Counihan, M Barry. July '90
The obvious line to the left of Willie Wonka. Start directly below the line on top. Climb up to the base of the overhanging corner move left and climb up moving slightly right towards to the top.

'''10:WILLIE WONKA''' ** 20m E2 6a
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 27/12/89
This route is on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the right hand side of the face to a ledge (large block), climb up and into a right tending crack/corner (left of holly tree). Climb the overhang and continue straight up to the top.

==Small Crag directly above Rescue Rock==

[[File:Gap crag topo.jpg]]

1. '''MICRO **''' 15m E2 5c 
''A. Forde, J. Hussey April 2005'' 
Climb overhanging arete immediately left of main corner to good hold and continue steeply to large ledge at 6m. Continue up arete on right to top.

'''2. Vodka & Redbull''' 15m VS 4b. 
''J. Hussey, I Counihan, April 2005.'' 
Climb into the cave. Move out of cave and onto ledge on good holds. Continue up arête to top.

'''3. Young Love''' 15m HS 4a 
''I Counihan, J. Hussey, April 2005.'' 
Climb the corner to the right of the cave.

'''4. Sing Song Bully''' 15m E1 5c 
''J. Hussey, D Casey, June 2009.'' 
Climb large crack to ledge. From ledge climb up the face and through small roof.

==J Buttress==
This buttress is behind and to the right of the Main Face.

'''GREAT SLAVE''' (1) * 40m E1 5b
A. Forde, J. Forde. 3/5/90
1. Start 8m left of Oozum Croozum. Climb up and left under a small set of overhangs and past a square wedged block, then climb up and right (crux). Belay at the base of the next wall. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. Move up to gain a quartz vein and traverse right along the wall under a small roof. Exit past this roof and belay on a large sloping ledge.

'''OOZUM CROOZUM''' (1) 20m E2/3 5c/6a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/5/90
Start directly below the arete. Climb to the corner in the arete. Below the top, traverse right onto the right face and then up to a ledge. Climb the face above (poorly protected) to a large block to finish. Descend to the left.
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'''APPARITION''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde. April `95.
Start just right of Ozum Croozum.Climb ramp to overhanging groove.Surmount this (crux) and straight up wall above keeping well right of grass ledge.Climb short steep wall with overhanging block.Exit on right side of overhang.

==The Main Face==
This is the large blank face above Black Stream bridge. It is bordered on the right by overhangs and vegetation up high and on the left by a striking arete, P'u.

[[File:Main_Face.jpg|650px]]

'''1:CARRAIGS''' (1) 40m E1 5c
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
1. 15m Start immediately left of P'u, climb the face left of a tree to gain a good hand crack, above this ascend a short corner to a ledge, belay here.
2. 25m At the left end of the ledge climb the face to a break in the roof, continue to the top of the face above.

'''2:FOUR YELLOW''' 40m E2 5c
A. Forde, C. Cudden 17/8/97
1.As for Carraigs
2.Traverse left from belay tree for 5m to stand on a very narrow ledge. Climb up to a break with large boulders. Move left and climb overhang. Continue straight over breaks in middle of face to top.

'''3:AS GOOD AS IT GETS''' E3 5c ***
Denis Tangney.June`05
Start 3m up and left of PÙ on a flat stone.Climb steeply up for 8m (bold) to gain protection.Veer slightly left in direction of first bolt.Clip this and climb crack (crux) up to second bolt.Mantle up under overhang.Climb over hang on right side of bolt to finish.

'''4:P'U''' ** 30m E2 5b
P. Pritchard, A. Forde. 7/4/90
The large arete left of a tree filled gully. Start on the left face, move up and right to gain a large ledge at half height, continue onto the right wall but move immediately onto the arete and continue on the arete to a belay ledge. Protection is not good. Abseil off.
Second Pitch: Traverse left approx. 4m from the belay tree. Climb directly up on poor quality rock and past a very large hanging block on the right. Continue up the arete and wall on the left to the top. Belay off large block on top.
A. Forde, D. Tangney. August 2005.

'''5:RUFUS IS A TIT MAN''' * 50m E2 5b/6a/5a
A. Forde [1,2], R. Stack[3]. 14/4/95
1. 10m Start 3m right of the P'u arete, climb the shallow scoop to a sloping ledge and then climb a short corner to a large ledge. Poor protection.
2. 20m Climb the crack line on the left side of the ledge to a holly tree.
3. 20m Start just left of the holly tree and climb over a small overhang. Climb up over large blocks and move slightly right. Climb up and left (past a triangular incut) through the overhang to the top.

'''6:OUT OF MY REACH''' ** 45m HVS/E1 4c,5a
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
This climb is on the left hand side of the blank face to the right of the black water stain.
1. 10m Go straight up to a large ledge which contains a large tree.
2. 35m From the ledge climb up right of the black water stain (crux), poor protection. At the top of the water stain move left and climb straight up. The route follows a series of sloping ledges and up into a groove. Climb through and straight up to belay under block overhang.

'''7:THE OVERLAP''' (1) ** 45m E3 6a
A. Forde, C. Moriarty. 23/4/90
It takes the obvious left tending diagonal line on the right side of the main face.
1. Start 20m to the right of the start of Out of my Reach. Climb vertically to gain the bottom of the overlap, continue up and left to a block at 15m. Move left from here to a hanging belay.
2. Move up and right from the belay through the overhang via an obvious groove and then to the top on easier ground.

'''8:DEMASIADO''' ** 40m E1 5b,5a
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 1/5/90
1. 25m Start under a white wall with two vertical cracks (at 10m) immediately right of The Overlap. Climb directly up to the base of the white wall and step right to a small ledge. Move up via two vertical cracks to a sloping ramp. Move right to a small ledge and then up and left to a small belay ledge, beneath the overhang.
2. 15m From the belay ledge move left and then up to a large ledge on the left. Continue up to a right tending corner. Above this move up the face to a square-cut hole and up and right to finish. Belay slightly right.

'''VARIATION TO DEMASIADO''' 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 1/5/90
Pitch 2. More left from the belay ledge and climb the right side of the upper face to the top.

'''9:LOS POTATOS''' * E2 6a,5b
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney April `95
(1) Climb shallow corner right of Demasiado(bold crux)and straight up to belay stance at 20m.
(2) Move right and up to top 20m.

'''10:VIVE LA LEGION''' * 30m E1 5c
I. Counihan, D. Stuttar. 4/4/95
This route is on the white lichen-covered wall left of The Will of Zog. Start on the big block. Climb up the arete to the first small overhang. Climb the hand crack and continue up to the black roof. Move out right (crux) to gain a small ledge and traverse to a holly tree. Belay here.

'''11:THE WILL OF ZOG''' * 35m HVS 5b,5a
I. Counihan [1,3], A. Forde [2]. 12/4/90
This route takes a weak crack system to an obvious corner under a roof about 40m right of Out of My Reach and immediately right of a set of roofs.
1. 12m Start under the left hand end of a large block. Climb the off width crack to the top of the block. Climb the thin crack line to the corner under the overhang. Belay here.
2. 6m Traverse left under the overhang to gain the face and continue up to a ledge. Many parties abseil from here.
3. 17m From the right hand end of the ledge climb up and left of the chimney. Climb this for 5m and regain the right arete.

'''12:VIVALDI''' 30m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 12/4/90
The crack line immediately right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small ramp and the crackline above to a ledge. Continue on the same line above to a short corner. Climb this and step left and up to gain a ledge, (the route can finish here with an abseil from the holly tree). From the ledge climb an easy left tending crack and then a short face with a good flake. Belay on trees above. To descend, go uphill under a large chockstone and right to the descent gully.

'''13:ICY FINGERS''' 18m VS 4c
R. Stack, D. Doolan. 3/1/90
This route starts just right of The Will of Zog. Climb a small corner to the right of a small tree. Climb a crack to gain a ledge. Traverse left and climb 2m to gain another ledge. Climb straight in under an overhang and traverse out right to finish the route.

'''14:AND IT STONED ME''' 18m HVS 5a/5b
P. Costelloe, R. Morrison. 1992
Start as for Icy Fingers to gain the ledge, move slightly right and climb straight up the face, using the right tending crack near the top.

==Póirse Gully==
This is the large boulder-strewn gully that runs through the western cliffs, directly above Black Stream Bridge. A lot of the boulders in the gully are loose and care should be taken while in the gully. Approach by walking up a small stream above and left of the bridge and turning right at the top. Walk more or less straight up to the Gully.

[[File:Póirse1.jpg|400px|link=Special:FilePath/Póirse1.jpg]]

'''DOUGLAS TURD''' (1) 7m Diff
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress between the forks of the upper Póirse gully. There is a small overhang in the centre of the buttress. Climb the left hand side of the buttress.

'''LORD DENNING''' (1) 7m V.Diff
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Climb the short corner 2m right of Douglas Turd, right of the overhang.

'''1:GET A JOB''' (1) 20m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 2/6/91
Start 1m left of Life In Windy Weather. Climb the buttress between Life In Windy Weather and a large crackline to the left. Enter a left facing groove at half height and finish up on easier ground, tending right. Belay near a large block.

'''2:LIFE IN WINDY WEATHER''' (1) * 25m E1 5b
A. Forde, N. Gregory. 30/4/90
Start at an alcove on the left of the north wall in the middle of Póirse Gully. Climb through the alcove and the overhang above it. Finish through the prominent corner above. Belay at the holly tree below the top. Descend left.

'''3:THE STOOP''' (1) *** 30m E2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 7/5/95
Start just left of Echo Beach. Climb directly up to the right hand edge of the block wedged under the overhang. Traverse left under the block, climb onto the block, then move out right onto the face above the overhang and straight up to the top. Belay on a holly tree above.

'''4:AIR TIME''' 30m E4/5 6a/b
S. Hennessey
Start as for The Stoop but head for the higher right hand roof. Arrange gear before going left
under the overhang (hard) and finish straight up the headwall above.

'''5:THE MUPPET SHOW''' E1 5b *
Start two meters right of The Stoop below a short faint crack.Climb directly up to ledge at 15m.Move right to join Echo Beach (?) and follow this route to finish. 30m.
First ascent; Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde. April `96.

'''6:PEREGRINE''' ** 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty I. Counihan. 1990
(Variation to the first pitch of Echo Beach)
Start at the back of the cave. Climb to the top of the cave facing out, then traverse out and climb up to Peregrine Ledge. Continue up one of the other routes or descend off the ledge.

'''7:ECHO BEACH''' ** 30m E2 4c,5c
A. Forde, J. Price. 1985
1. 10m Start 5m left of an obvious chimney (cave), climb diagonally up and right to gain Peregrine ledge.
2. 20m Climb the arete (crux) from the ledge, turning the overhang above on the left before finishing over two easy benches.

'''8:SUN DOGS''' (1) * 30m E1 5b,5c
R. Stack[1],A.Forde[2]. 5/5/95
1. 10m Climb the shallow steep groove just left of the obvious cave. Climb straight up to Peregrine Ledge. Belay here. Protection is poor on the first pitch.
2. 20m Start 2m right of the 2nd pitch of Echo Beach (where the overhang 2m above fades out). Climb from the ledge to a vertical crack and then to a breach in the first small overhang, move slightly left and then over the top overhang.

==Peregrine Ledge.==
Access is by climbing up Peregrine or the first pitch of Echo Beach or from the base of P'u scramble up a steep grassy gully to the ledge. Alternatively, from the large cave in the gully traverse right, over a holly tree, then walk left and up to Peregrine Ledge. The ledge is recognisable by the large blocks wedged between the face and the ledge. The following five routes are based around Peregrine ledge.

[[File:Póirse2.jpg|650px|link=Special:FilePath/Póirse2.jpg]]

'''9:THANK YOU IVAN, THANK YOU LORD''' ** 15m HVS 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. 30/4/90
Start on Peregrine Ledge. Start from the large chock stone wedged between the face and the ledge. The route takes a direct vertical line to the top from this chock stone.

'''10. SHORT BUT SWEET''' 8m HS 4b
R. Creagh (Solo). 24/03/11.
Climb the obvious shallow corner left of Red Dragon

'''11:RED DRAGON''' 20m VS 4c
R. Stack, P.Costelloe. 29/9/91
Start on the grassy ledge to the right and below Peregrine Ledge, right of the cave with the wedged blocks. Climb the right hand edge of the face to the top.

'''HUBBLE''' (1) 15m VS 4c
I. Counihan, A. Forde. 30/4/90
This route is on a small buttress left of Kestrel Buttress. Climb up the centre of the buttress and over the block at the top.

==Kestrel Buttress==
This is a small buttress on the left of the upper gully which contains the following three climbs.

[[File:Kestrel.jpg|400px]]

'''PÚNCÁNACH''' ** 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, I. Counihan. March '90
Climb the prominent crackline left of Kestrel. Protection is poor at the top.

'''Bundánach''' * 20m E2 5c
???
Climb between Púncánach and Kestrel directly to the chains. Excellent protection.

'''KESTREL''' * 18m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, D. Mulcahy. 1985
Climb the arete on the right hand side of the face

'''MIDGES''' (1) 15m VS 4c
C. Moriarty, R. Gabbett. 1985
Around the arete to the right of Kestrel climb the north facing wall to the overhang before swinging around onto the arete to share the same finish as Kestrel.

==The High Buttress==
This is the large buttress left of Póirse Gully. It contains two large ledges, the lower one having a large overhang above it. There are many fine long routes on this buttress. At the back left hand side of the first ledge there is a holly tree which acts as an abseil point. Because the overhang hinders further ascent, many of the routes finish on the first ledge. Different routes can also be combined. The first pitch of Seventh Heaven and finishing on Jamaica Plain makes a fine route.
The top ledge (Burnt Ledge) can be scrambled onto from the right hand side. From the base of the buttress traverse around and up the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the shallow steep gully, which is overgrown with trees. This is quite a tricky ascent.

[[File:High_Buttress.jpg|640px]]

'''1:L'ORANGE''' (1) ** 20m E2 5c/6a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
This route is on the extreme left of the buttress. At 15m there is a large detached block / flake below a prominent overhang. This route is on the left hand side of the large block of which the right hand side is Deoch Aimsir. Climb directly up to the left hand side of the block and then continue up the crack to the roof. Surmount this and continue more easily to a holly tree belay. Abseil here.

'''2:DEOCH AIMSIR''' (1) 25m E1/2 5c
A. Forde, R. Stack. 17/9/90
Start right of L'orage. Climb the right hand side of the block, then traverse right under the roof to a large ledge. Move up and left from the ledge (crux) to gain the face above the overhang, continue up to a holly tree, belay here. Abseil or continue up Jamaica Plain or Seventh Heaven.

'''3:JAMAICA PLAIN''' * 70m HVS 5a,5a,4b,5a
A. Forde, M Shea. 1985
1. 30m Start 10m left of Seventh Heaven. Climb a corner system moving slightly left and then right, climb a corner to a large ledge below a prominent crack. Belay here.
2. 7m Climb the off width crack through the overhang and then move left to a large ledge with a holly tree. Belay here
3. 20m Climb the left side of the buttress to Burnt Ledge.
4. 13m Start on the left hand edge of the face, climb to an obvious corner / overhang with a large crack, climb about 1m right of the crack to the top (crux).

'''VARIATION ON 2ND PITCH OF JAMAICA PLAIN''' (1) 10m HVS/E1 5b
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
Instead of climbing the off-width crack, climb the thin line just to the right of it. Gain the sloping ledge and traverse left to finish as for original route.

'''4:INFERNO''' (1) 35m E1 5b,4c
A. Forde [1], R. Stack [2]. 15/9/90
Face and groove between Jamaica Plain and Seventh Heaven.
1. 25m Climb straight up for about 5m, move out right, then up and left again (to round obvious hard move) and continue straight up to a large ledge.
2. 10m From the ledge move up and left over an overhang on good holds. Continue up to a holly tree . Abseil or continue up the third pitch of Jamaica Plain.

'''5:SEVENTH HEAVEN''' *** 60m E1 4c,5b
G.Sexton [1], C. Moriarty [2]. 25/8/90
At the left hand side of the buttress and left of the prominent overhang is a white thorn tree. This route takes the obvious corner above this with initial moves over large overhanging blocks.
1. 25m Climb the corner directly then beyond a little to where it runs out Belay at an obvious cut holly tree under the large overhang.
2. 25m Climb the off width crack (as for Jamaica Plain) to the roof, traverse right under the roof to a ledge. From the far end of the ledge, climb straight up to Burnt Ledge.

'''6:FIR BOLG''' * 20m E2 5c/6a
R. Stack, A. Forde. 18/9/90
Start 3m right of Seventh Heaven, close to a white thorn bush. Gain a ledge and then a large block/ledge (this ledge is shared with Seventh Heaven). From the ledge make a long reach/jump up and right to gain a large ledge on the outer face. Climb up and right on the outer face to a groove. Continue on easier ground to the large ledge. From the ledge abseil or continue up another route.

'''7:THE BIRD''' (1) * 20m VS 4c/5a A0
R. Stack, P. Costelloe. 29/9/90
Climb to the large roof above a black corner (alcove). Aid climb out through the roof

'''My Left Foot''' E3 6a 
Start below the black corner of The Bird. Climb directly up to the smaller roofed corner 2m right of the roof crack of The Bird. Breach the overhang above on massive holds. Small cams can be arranged from a strenuous position, at the lip, before the fingery crux gains the slab. Finish directly up the wall above to the ledge. 
R. Browner, R. MacAllister. 16.04.11 
(The leader’s foot was broken by rock-fall, below the roof, during the ascent).

'''8:THE UNFORGETTABLE FIRE''' ** 73m HVS 4c,5a,5a,4b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. February 1986
1. 20m Climb the obvious centre crack over the overhang to a large grassy ledge.
A. Forde, M Barry. 1985
2. 20m From the ledge go back to the back wall and traverse right along the obvious rock ramp. Go around the corner and slightly down to gain a shallow steep groove with awkward moves to a large block ledge. Belay here.(Large Hex).
3. 20m Traverse along a ledge over the main roof. Mid way along, climb up the wall between two parallel cracks. Climb to Burnt Ledge, emerging just right of a large boulder.
4. 13m From Burnt Ledge climb directly up the wall through the obvious weakness in the overhang.

'''9:GANGSTER OF LOVE''' (1) 20m E1 5b
A. Forde, M Shea. 8/9/90
Between The Unforgettable Fire and Scairibhín. Climb directly up to a finger crack at 15m. Ascend this and belay at the large ledge above.

'''10:SCAIRBHIN''' ** 65m E1 5b,5b
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 8/9/90
At the right hand side of the crag, some 5m to the right of The Unforgettable Fire is an obvious open square cut groove, some 5/6m high. This is the start of Scairibhín.
1. 30m Climb the crack line on the left of the groove to the end of the chimney. Move right and up, to a ledge beneath an overhanging bulge with an obvious weakness (some parties belay here before the crux moves). Climb up the groove onto obvious block ledge.
2. 22m From this belay ledge climb directly up a shallow rounded groove. Continue up, emerging at the right hand corner of Burnt Ledge.
3. 13m As for final pitch of The Unforgettable Fire.

'''VARIATION TO FINAL PITCH OF SCAIRBHIN''' (1) 12m HS 4b
M Shea, A. Forde. 8/9/90
Climb the right hand side of the top buttress above Burnt Ledge. Climb up 4m and step right onto a large block, then more left onto the face to gain the central crackline. Finish up this crackline.

'''11:BIMBI LIMBO''' (1) 50m HVS 5a
A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/6/91
This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb.

'''12:J.C.B.''' (1) 40m VS 4c
D. Commins, M. Leen. 11/5/09
This is the gully up and to the right of Bimbi Limbo, the one with a small tree stump buried in it. Move
up and left onto the side wall and continue up, passing the overhanging block/ledge. From the ledge, stay right of the arete and continue straight up to Burnt Ledge.

==Aspen Ledge==
Access to this crag is from Burnt Ledge (top ledge on The High Buttress). From Burnt Ledge traverse south and down to a narrow ledge with a steep face above it.

'''THE GROOVE''' 22m HVS 5a
P. Sexton, G. Sexton. Aug '90
Climb the obvious crack line on the left hand side of the crag to a large ledge. From the ledge climb a short wall to the top (crux).

'''AN EVENING WITH NIMBUS''' ** 22m E1 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug '90
From the ledge start on the highest of two boulders. Climb the very centre of the wall over the overhangs.

'''THE JAGGED EDGE''' (1) ** 22m E1/2 5b
C. Moriarty, P. Sexton. Aug \'90
Start at the very lowest point of the arete. Climb the arete to the large block ledge. Finish up the short wall to the top. Protection is poor.

==Faill Ceol==
This crag is above and to the left of The High Buttress. There is a large overhang in the centre of the crag.

[[image:dunloe ceol.jpg]]

'''RELICS''' (1) 10m HS 4b
Rob. Stack, R+G Stack. 14/7/90
Start 20m from the end of the left hand side of the crag. Climb the obvious crack to the large ledge. Belay here on an oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''MOMENTARY LAPSE OF REASON''' (1) 10m HVS 5a
R. Stack, Rob + G. Stack. 10/9/90
Start 1.5m to the right of Relics. Climb straight up (right of large shallow scoop) and move slightly left near the top. Belay here on the oak tree. Abseil from here.

'''GASH''' 35m VS 4b
R. Stack, J. Forde. 13/7/90
Climb the black steps left of the main overhang (left of ivy), traverse right and up onto a large ledge. From here climb 10m to a large oak tree. Abseil or climb a small chimney on the right to the top.

'''PREACHÁIN''' ** 45m E2 5b,5c,5c
A. Forde, P. Falvey. 21/4/90
1. 25m Start under the left hand end of the main roof. Climb the vertical line towards the left hand end of the roof. 5m from the roof veer left and then traverse to belay on a large block. Protection is poor.
2. 10m Move left and out from the belay to gain a ledge on the outer face. Climb up on easier ground and belay.
3. 10m Traverse right from the belay under a small overhang. Gain a crack above the left centre of the overhang and climb above it. Finish easily through a shallow chimney above.

'''VARIATION TO 1ST PITCH OF PREACHÁIN''' (1) 25m HVS 5a
A. Forde, B. Forde. July '94
Start as for Preachain. Climb up 5m. Take a faint line heading diagonally left, then head straight up to the belay ledge. Protection is poor.

'''THE SIGN''' *** 65m E2 5b,A2,5c Or free in one pitch at E5 6a.
C. Moriarty, M Shea. 5/8/90
1. 25m As for the first pitch of Preacháin
2. 10m From the ledge climb free for a few moves and aid traverse out right and along the overlap line to a belay at the lip of the roof. There are pegs in place but some of these were rusty looking in 1994.
3. 30m From the ledge climb the wall directly. A vertical crack tells the way through the overhang to the top.

'''CRANES BILL''' 20m HS 4b
A. Forde, R. Stack 19/5/95
Start 3m left of Meltdown. Climb an indistinct line to the left side of the triangular roof (Meltdown goes to the right side). Back climb the route or continue up Meltdown.

'''MELTDOWN''' *** 60m HVS 4c,5b
A. Forde, A. Devlin. April '86
1. 35m Climb the obvious corner on the right of the face, under the main roof. Climb the crack to a roof, traverse right and up to a small ledge, then climb up and right to a larger ledge with a small holly tree. Belay here.
2. 25m Climb the obvious line to the break in the overhang, climb this and continue straight up to the top.
Lots of Friends are required for this climb.

'''KUDOS''' *** 50m VS 4c
A. Forde, I. Sheahan 13/7/96
1. Start as for Meltdown. After 3m move right to a large ledge. Traverse right along the top of the ramp to a vertical fist crack. Climb this and the corner above to under the overhang. Move left and up to a ledge and then right to under the upper overhang (awkward). Move up and left to the meltdown belay ledge (small to medium cams).
2. From the belay move right and up. Climb the middle of the wide black water streak following ledges and thin cracks and passing a small wedged block immediately to the left. After the wedged block gain the crack system on the right and follow this to under the overhang that crosses the whole face. Step right and the up and left to a good ledge. Follow a curving ramp on the right to a protruding block on the skyline. Belay at this block or further back at the top.

'''BOSCH''' 50m E1 5b, 4c
A. Forde, R. Stack 4/10/97
1. Start 5 m right of a holly tree which is close to an arete approx. 3m right of the Meltdown corner. Climb a slightly left-trending crack line to approx. 8m. Step up and right to a corner/crack system which trends slightly right. Belay on a large ledge near some trees.
2. Climb an obvious corner, then a face avoiding an overhang on the left. From a ledge follow a faint crack line trending right to the top

'''SURF 350''' 25m VS 4c
A. Forde, I.Counihan. 29/4/90
Obvious right facing corner on the far right hand side of the wall. Climb the corner to the off width crack, continue up and left to finish at a break in the top of the crag.

'''OH MERCY''' (1) 25m E1 5b
R. Stack, G. Stack. 14/7/90
Start 1m right of Surf 350, climb the obvious line to a very small ledge with a small overhang 1m above, climb over the overhang and move slightly left and continue straight to the top.

==Ash Valley==
This large crag is situated directly behind Cushvally Lake. About 300m past the Colleen Bawn house there are some old ruins. Just before the ruins, on the right side of the road, a path leads down to a small foot bridge on the north side of the lake. Walk to the lake and then to the crag.

'''THE ROOSTER''' (1) 30m HS 4b
P. Curtis, P. Spillane. Summer '94
This route is on the left hand side of the buttress. Start in the obvious groove, climb to the ledge and proceed left (crux) and up.

'''TIME BANDITS''' E2 5c ***
Denis Tangney,Aidan Forde.
(1)Start at shallow corner 2m left of “Coladh Samh”. Climb corner and move slightly right to small ledge.Move left and climb wall with square cut hole(crux) and continue up to holly tree belay. 25m
(2)Climb slightly left to within one meter of small overhang.Traverse right to good holds and straight up to wedged block.Climb this on left side(crux) to a good belay ledge. 25m.

'''COLADH SÁMH''' (1) ** 50m E1 5b?,5b,A1
C. Moriarty, D. Murphy. 6/5/90
1. 20m Start at the left hand end of the arch, climb the corner and continue straight to the ledge (ash tree).
2. Climb straight up a thin crack, one aid point (small wire) to some green shaded rock above. Move slightly right and up to obvious overhanging corner left of the main overhang - hanging belay.
3. Climb the overhang (one aid point) and straight to the top.

'''A SPECTACLE FOR SWANS''' 58m E2 5c
C. Moriarty, M McGillycuddy. August '86
1. 50m Under the highest point of the crag is a curved roof (arch), about 4m off the ground. This route climbs into the corner some 6 to 7m to the right of this. Climb on good holds into the obvious corner and beyond to the small right angled roof (25m). Climb through this and up over a ledge system, to a belay stance under the final overhang, underneath an obvious 'v' in the sky line. Protection is poor on this pitch.
2. 8m From the stance climb through the 'v'.

'''RIVER RUN''' E2 5c **
Aidan Forde,Denis Tangney. April `98.
Start 25m right of “ Spectacle for Swans”.Climb black wall to obvious narrow chimney.Climb this (crux) straight up to holly tree belay.Abseil from tree. 25m.

==Auger Lake Crag==
There has been more recent
development around the crags behind Auger Lake. Not much
information is available on these crags yet apart from a few pictures floating around in
cyberspace on climbing.ie. The grid reference is 874857.
Go explore

==Overhang Crag==
A small, steep crag west of the Turnpike Rocks.
Directions Park 100m before or after the Turnpike Rocks. The crag is visible across the valley, about
250m away. GR: 874855.

Conditions/Aspect
One face faces south, the other east. No seepage.

Descent
Walk back and left (as you face
the crag) for a few hundred metres before a safe descent can
be made down to the level of the crag

[[File:Overhang_Crag.jpg|640px]]

'''1.MINANS CALL''' 8m HVS 5b
D. Duggan, R. Creagh. 16/04/11.
Climb the obvious crack on the south face of the buttress. Short but steep.

'''2.AIRY FAERIE''' 8m VS 4c
R. Creagh, D. Duggan. 16/04/11.
Start as for Minans Call.Get gear in the horizontal break and traverse right to a stance on the arete. Climb this to the top

==Jigsaw Wall==
A more recently developed crag with some of the hardest routes in the Gap. Most of the
routes are short but quite steep and take aesthetic lines on excellent rock.

Directions
Park on the left just after the turnpike rocks. The crag is mostly hidden from view at the road
and lies up on the right (west) side of the valley.
It is reached by crossing the river and
walking up and left (less than 10 minutes). GR: 873853.

Conditions/Aspect
The crag seeps a lot so wait a day or two after rain. North facing so bring plenty of layers.
Descent
Chains for lowering off most routes. Otherwise walk right (as you face the crag) and down

[[File:Jigsaw_Wall.jpg|640px]]

'''1.RICHARDS ROUTE''' 9m Severe
R. Creagh (Solo). 25/03/11.
Scramble up to the base of a slab around the left corner of the crag. Climb the centre of the slab.

'''2.PINK MOON''' 9m HVS 5a
R. Creagh, D. Duggan, 16/04/11.
Climb the face left of the obvious wide crack. 41

'''3.NAME UNKNOWN''' 8m HS 4b
???
The obvious wide crack on the left of the crag.

'''4.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m VS 5a
???
Start 2m right of a large crack. Climb the faint crack to a block, move left onto a large and
finish up the corner. A long reach helps at the start.

'''5.NAME UNKNOWN''' 10m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and finish boldly up the blunt arete.

'''6.NAME UNKNOWN''' 18m E4 6a
???
Start as for 4 and continue rightwards across the crag along the crack systems, finishing up Mighty Mouse. A very pumpy route!

'''7.HAWKER''' 12m E2 5c
S. Hennessey
A brilliant line, taking the obvious splitter crack on the left of the crag. Hard to start.

'''8:WICKIDY WOCK''' 12m E3 6a
S. Hennessey
Another stunning route, taking the next splitter crack and finishing up left.

'''9.NAME UNKNOWN''' 12m E5 6a
K. Power
Start up Wickety Wock but at the start of the traverse head straight up to the chains.

'''10.MIGHTY MOUSE''' 10m E1 5c
S. Hennessey
Climb the obvious fingers to hands crack on the right side of the crag.

==Further South==

There is more climbing further south, with a few routes worthy of note.

'''BLACK DYNAMITE''' 25m E5 4b, 6b

D. Duggan [2], R. Creagh [1].16/04/11

(one wire pre-placed on first ascent). Left of Richard‟s Route at Jigsaw Wall is a black corner under a large roof.The second pitch starts here. The first can be done independently.An onsight of the route would be quite bold.
1. (10m) Abseil in from the corner(or walk around to bottom), down the black, right-facing
corner with a monster crack. Climb this (a solo without size 5 or above cams) back up to the original corner. 2. (15m) Start in the right hand of 2 corners and climb easily up to the roof (good wire in small crack on left side of roof). Pull out through the roof with a strenuous sequence and gradually fight your way up the blunt arete to a good hold above the lip. Finish easier.

'''ECHINECEA''' 25m E3 5c

E. Kennedy, D. Duggan. 17/04/10.

This route takes a steep crack line south of Jigsaw Wall that is best seen from the grassy slope near Richard‟s Route. Unfortunately it is often wet.Start in the corner left of the upper crack and follow it to the roof(Escape left possible at HS). From here move airily out right and follow the crack to the top left hand side of the cliff.

==Glas Lough Crag==

From the lay-by at the head of the Gap head up the track towards Purple Mountain. Afterabout15 minutes the crags appear on the right. The rock looks broken on most of these cliffs with few very obvious lines. There is a rowan tree near the river towards the north end of the crag. Head straight towards the wall from this tree.

'''STRANGE CREATION''' 12m HVS 5a

R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 22/05/10.

Near the wall there is a small arch created by 2 blocks. Just right of this a thin, broken, right-trending crack starts. Start here and follow the crack until you can gain the ramp. Go right up this for 2m and then straight up under a thin, closed crack further up. Exit right (loose)

=='''THE CHIMNEYS'''==

The area known as The Chimneys is situated on the eastern side of the Gap of Dunloe, above Bothán crag. They are broken down into three main outcrops. The approach is as for Bothán, but continue in a north easterly direction for approx. 10 minutes and you will arrive at the crags. The approach after leaving Bothán may be difficult as the heather in high….but I think its worth the effort.
There seems to be very little seepage there.

'''HIGHWAY TO HEAVEN''' VS 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 29/04/2014
Start on the left of the smaller crag at the left of the chimneys. Climb the obvious crack and stay left of the tree root. Climb straight up till you arrive at the ledge (avoid the temptation to move right on the High Hopes), instead, climb the overhanging face topping out a little higher than High Hopes.

'''HIGH HOPES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
This climb is on the very left of the outcrops, at the base of the large triangular rock. Start in the very obvious corner, climbing up to the overhang, move left, climb past the bush, moving slightly right before climbing to the top of the crag.

'''PEARLY GATES''' S 18m
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan S
Start as for High Hopes, but instead of going left at the overhang, climb straight up the face, topping out at the top out for High Hopes

'''CRONINS YARD''' VDIFF 16m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The start for this is about 50m to the right, and slightly uphill from High Hopes, Start at the left hand corner of the small crag, and climb the corner to the heathery covering. The decent is off to the left of the top out and down the small gully

'''THE STEPS''' VDIFF 14m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
The Steps is on the left corner of the next major crag after Cronins Yard, Climb the obvious steps, finishing on the first major heathery ledge you reach. Avoid the temptation to climb further, as it makes your decent to your left very tricky

'''MAIDEN VOYAGE''' MS 15m
Ger Cronin Solo 24/04/2014
Start about 4m to the right of The Steps, climb the rock which has a concave shape, climbing straight up the flat face and topping out at the obvious crack in the rock at the top of the climb.

'''VERTICAL LIMIT VS 46m'''
Ger Cronin/John O'Sullivan 12/06/2014
On the crag on the southern end of the Chimneys, Start at the base of the obvious crack, climb straight up, over the small overhang, onto the ledge, from here climb straight up the blocky climb to highest point in the crag. Protection is good. Decent from here is off to the right of the crag as you face it.

Ailladie

2021-03-15T09:32:12Z

Damien O'Sullivan: /* Aran Wall */

==Introduction==

''Ailladie (Aill an Daill - The Blind Man's Cliff) is an 800m long limestone sea cliff with routes varying in height from 8m to 30m. It lies out of sight below the Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughan road (R477) 11km north of Lisdoonvarna and about 1.5kms beyond where this road reaches the coast. The approach from the north is described in the introduction.''

<display_map>53.069438, -9.358384</display_map>

[[File:AilladiePanorama.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/AilladiePanorama.jpg]]

''From the layby where cars are usually parked (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 028) a short walk northward along the edge of the cliff brings one to a grassy ramp (OSi Discovery Series map 51 grid ref M 090 032) which leads down to a 3m step. This descent is used by local fishermen and is usually equipped with some rope and two metal spikes. Below this are the Dancing Ledges - an extensive non-tidal platform from which the first 90+ routes can be reached. Another 20+ routes are in the Mirror Wall area and access depends on the tide. For all routes further south descent is by abseil (see note on page ?).''

''The rock is steep with sharp incut holds and most routes take crack lines. Protection is reasonable. Many of the routes are subject to change due to high seas and winter storms. Boulders are shifted around from year to year and consequently the grades of the starts of routes can vary considerably.''

''Right of the descent the cliff gradually increases in height. 40m to the right is a short square-cut corner with an obvious wide crack (Pink Cleft). The wall is initially broken and overhanging but as Pink Cleft is approached it becomes more smooth and vertical. Left of the descent there is a long 1m wide overhang 1.5m above the boulders. The routes in this area are short but worthwhile and only a few have been recorded.''

'''ROUTE 1''' 10m HS 4b ''S. O Brien, 1977. ''Start directly beneath the second corner to the left of the large overhang left of the descent. Climb the bulge to a ledge at 4m and up the corner to the top.

'''NOSTRIL CAPERS''' 10m HVS 5b ''D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, August 1981. ''Start below the first groove left of the large overhang and 2m right of Route 1. Climb bulging rock and gain a ledge below the groove. Climb the wall just left of the groove to the top.

==Dancing Ledges==

''This is the area of cliff which stretches left from the foot of the descent route to the boulder pile near Rollerball. The next set of routes can be found to the right of the descent on the wall which runs as far as the corner of Pink Cleft.''

'''THE REVOLUTION WILL NOT BE TELEVISED''' 10m HVS 5b ''G. Whittaker, C. Smaje, 12/4/90. ''Start left of Orang Utang, below the capped, hanging corner, just left of the widest point of the roof. Climb the roof to gain the corner, up this, then over the capping roof. Finish directly up the small groove above.

'''ORANG UTANG''' 10m HS 4b D. O Connell, S. O Riordan, February 1982. Takes a thin crack just right of the start of the overhang. Climb the crack and traverse right on jugs to a broken wall.

'''HONEY MONSTER''' 10m HVS 5a

''E. Cooper, September 1981.''

A bouldering route which starts at a pile of boulders below a short thin crack near the left end of the long overhang and 2m left of Gambit. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left. Gain a higher ledge moving slightly right and up the final overhanging wall.

'''GAMBIT''' 10m HVS 5c

''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 27/11/77.''

Start about 20m right of the descent below a crack which runs from the right end of the long overhang to an overhanging corner. Climb the first overhang (strenuous). Gain the corner niche and climb the overhang above to the top.

''The rock between Gambit and Cripple has been climbed at several points at up to 5b.''

'''CRIPPLE''' 10m VS 4c

''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77''

The smooth area of rock left of Pink Cleft ends at a broken crack. Just right of this there is a short diagonal leftward-trending flake crack near the ground. Climb directly up the wall just right of this.

'''LUGER''' 10m VS 5b

''T. Ryan, 27/11/77.''

About 11m left of Pink Cleft there is a small overhang at about 2.5m. Climb the overhang, trending left to a handhold. Now trend right to the top.

'''YING YANG''' 10m HVS 5b

''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77.''

Start on a boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft below a steep wall with patches of yellow lichen. Climb steeply to a horizontal crack, gain a higher horizontal crack and up to a groove. Continue more easily to the top.

'''DODO''' 10m HVS 5a

''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 27/11/77.''

Start on the first boulder 5m left of Pink Cleft opposite a small stepped overhang and yellow rock. Gain a horizontal crack and large holds slightly higher. Straight up over a small bulge and groove to the top.

'''JONATHAN''' 12m MS

''K.Kennedy (Maharees), E. Hobbs, 23/03/2012.''

Start directly left of 'Pink Cleft' without using it as an aid. Climb the obvious crack line to ledge three quarters up and go slightly right to top out.

The 1997 guidebook says that the groove left of Pink Cleft has been climbed in the past at D

'''PINK CLEFT''' 10m

''D J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72''

This is the corner and wide crack 40m right of the descent.

'''CRATER''' 10m S 4b

''T. Ryan (solo), 27/11/77.''

Take the short wall 3m right of Pink Cleft. Climb the wall to two horizontal cracks. Move right and climb to the top.

'''THE CRAFT''' HVS 5a

''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, 17th June 2001''

Takes the wall between Crater and Gogo via a long reach from a pocket to a sloping hold

'''GOGO''' 10m HS 4b

''J. O Connor, C. Whyte, 7/8/72.''

Start below a shallow groove 5m right of Pink Cleft and climb the groove to the top.

'''CÉILÍ''' 10m E1 5c

''T. Ryan (solo) 7/8/76.''

There is an undercut groove with a triangular overhanging block 6m right of Pink Cleft . Climb the overhang strenuously and finish up the groove.

'''BACKBREAKER''' 10m E2 5b/c

''Nigel Callender, David O'Neill, July 2001''

Takes the shallow yellow groove 3m to the right of Céilí. Climb directly to the pod and ﬁnish direct. A poor R.P. protects crux. Serious despite the length, due to the poor landing.

'''MAD MACKEREL''' 13m HS 4a

''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, 7/8/76.''

A contrived route. Start on a boulder below a small Y-groove just around the arête left of O Connor's Corner (boulder gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). Climb diagonally left to a ledge. Move left and up steep cracks to the top.

[[File:Climbers descent.jpg|400px|File:Climbers descent.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/Climbers_descent.jpg]]

'''Climbers' Descent'''

The ledges and boulders between Mad Mackerel and O Connor's Corner are usually used as a descent by climbers. The wall to the right is referred to as Long Ledge Wall. Update 2014: big boulder gone from the bottom, so now a much worse way of descending.

'''IMEALL AN CHUIS''' 10m S, B Watts, C Saas, 7/5/2018 (first recorded ascent).

(The edge of reason) Takes a line between '''Climbers' Descent''' and '''O'CONNOR'S CORNER'''.
Climb the left most crack at ground level 3m left of '''O'CC''' to the big ledge, move right and climb the left side of the vertical wall to the top.

'''O'CONNOR'S CORNER''' 10m D

''J. O Connor, 7/8/72.''

This is the right-facing corner before the wall with the long ledge at one-third height.

'''DART''' 16m HS 4a

''T. Ryan (solo) 27/11/77.''

Start as for O Connor's Corner and climb the wall on the right. Scramble up to wall. Hard first move, then easy to the top on jugs.

'''OPEN AIR FLAKE''' 16m VS 4c

''S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 7/8/76.''

This route starts just right of the corner and climbs the wall via the sharp flake. Climb the wall to a small ledge and continue up using cracks and flakes.

'''LISDOONFAROUT''' 15m HS 4a

''D. Windrim, T. Ryan, 7/8/76.''

Start 5m right of O Connor's Corner below a shattered crack just left of the long ledge. Climb to the base of the shattered crack and follow this to the top, treating the rock with care.

'''ALTERED IMAGES''' 15m E1 5c

''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984.''

Climbs the wall just right of Lisdoonfarout. Serious and poorly protected. Start near the left end of the long ledge. Make a hard move to reach the ledge. Mantelshelf awkwardly onto a foothold on the wall above, trend right, then back left to the top.

'''UNCONTROLLABLE''' 15m E4 6b

''R. Browner, J. Coughlan, 29/4/95.''

The central line up the wall left of Ground Control. Start as for No Control and move onto the long ledge. Step left and climb straight up the smooth wall just right of Altered Images using small holds and a tiny flake to reach better holds and a finish. Marginal protection.

'''NO CONTROL''' 18m E3 6a

''K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 6/4/85.''

An eliminate just left of Ground Control. Make a bouldering move onto the long ledge below the finish of Ground Control. Climb a couple of feet left of the top of Ground Control. Grab a jug on Ground Control and step back left again to finish up the wall.

'''GROUND CONTROL''' ** 16m VS 4c

''T. Ryan, D. Windrim, K. Higgs, August 1976''

A popular route giving steep fingery climbing with good protection. Start below the left-trending cracks which cross the centre of the long ledge. Make a bouldering move onto the ledge and climb the diagonal crack above.

'''PHOENIX''' * 17m HVS 5a

''T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, S. Hyland, January 1979.''

As for Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 1m right to an obvious hold on the wall, from here climb steeply to the top.

'''JUMBO''' 18m HVS 5a

''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast, July 1982.''

Start as for Ground Control. Climb Ground Control to the long ledge. Move 3m right past Phoenix to a curved crack. Step up into the crack, move right and up steeply to the top. Hard for the grade.

Direct start 6a/b J. Price. Climb directly up to the start of the curved crack.

'''WASP''' 16m E2 6a

''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, S. McCrory, April 1985.''

Start just where the lower ledge ends, about 2m right of the direct start of Jumbo. A problem start leads to the ledge. Move slightly right and then back left to gain a short crack and finish up this.

'''MOSQUITO''' 16m E2 6a

''E. Cooper, K. Murphy, April 1985.''

Starts as for Wasp. Follow Wasp to the ledge. Move 2m right and gain the crack left of Jet. Follow this to the top.

'''JET''' 16m E1 5b

''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77.''

At the end of the long ledge there are two thin rightward trending cracks. This route takes the first crack 6m right of Ground Control. Climb the thin crack past a ledge at 5m. Hard to protect.

'''SPITFIRE''' 16m E1 5b

''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 8/5/77.''

Start below the second rightward-trending crack 1m right of Jet. Gain a small foothold and climb a thin crack to a horizontal break (crux) and up to a narrow ledge. Continue up the steep crack to the top.

'''FINALE''' 16m E2 5c

''T. Ryan, D. O Sullivan, 17/3/85.''

Right of the long ledge is an undercut overhang at 1.5m. The centre of the overhang is split by a crack (The Ocean). Start under a flake just left of this crack. Gain the flake. Traverse left to a niche and climb the steep wall above.

'''ORCA''' 16m E2 6a

''E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984.''

Start as for Finale. Gain the flake and horizontal crack. Climb up to the second horizontal break and finish up the steep wall on good holds.

'''THE OCEAN''' * 16m E2 6a

''S. Windrim, D. Windrim (1 nut for aid), 7/8/76. C. Torrans, J. Colton (free), 1977.''

This popular little test piece takes the crack splitting the overhang. Using the flake pull strenuously over the overhang and move rightwards into the crack (crux). Gain good holds at a horizontal break. Up more easily on large holds to the top.

'''BUTTERFLY GIRL''' E4/5 6b/c

''Nigel Callender, John Harrison, 11/09/05''

The face to the right of The Ocean, gain a juggy ledge via a brutal start, the crux is moving from this to the sanctuary of the break. Failure on the crux results in a poor landing 20' below (tested this, feel lucky to still be walking). Ample gear in the 2 breaks leads up to a steep pod. Move right on hollow holds to finish steeply.

Top roped following ground up attempts.

'''UNDERTOW''' 16m E3 6b

''K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 10/3/85.''

A strenuous and technical problem which is not well protected. About 5m left of Dagger there is an open groove that starts at head height (the second groove left of Dagger). The route takes this (hard move to start) and continues straight up.

'''DEAD RINGER''' 16m E3 6a

''D. O Sullivan (solo) 8/7/85.''

Start up the crack 2m left of Mutcher. Climb the crack and then move right to the ledge at the top of the white wall of Mutcher. Finish straight up as for Mutcher.

'''DAGGER''' 16m E1 5a

''T. Ryan, D. Somers, 26/11/77.''

The overhang right of the long ledge ends at a small ledge 2m above the ground (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017). This route takes the white wall above the ledge. Gain the ledge. Avoiding the shallow groove above step left and make a hard move up the white wall to reach a good hold at a horizontal break. Climb steeply up to a good ledge. Finish up the crack in the bulging headwall.

'''MUTCHER''' 16m HVS 4c

''C. Motyer, P. Ewen, 20/12/76.''

Serious for the grade. Start as for Dagger. Gain the ledge at 2m (ledge gone, route now much harder Aug 2017) and climb the shallow groove to a horizontal crack. Trend up rightwards to a good ledge. Up more easily to the top.

'''ANGEL''' 16m E3 6a

''T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 12/5/84.''

This route takes the thin crack trending slightly rightwards from the right end of the black ledge. Start 2m right of Mutcher. Gain the right end of the ledge and climb the crack to sloping ledges near the top. Move right and up a steep wall to finish.

'''BATTERY HEN''' * 16m E4 6a D. O Sullivan (solo) 4/6/88. Takes the wall between Atomic Rooster and Angel. Serious. Start 2m left of Atomic Rooster. Make a tricky move up the bulging wall to gain holds leading out left to a sidepull which is cranked upon to reach a spacious ledge. Finish directly up the wall above. (The start can be easier, depending on the position of the boulders).

'''ATOMIC ROOSTER''' ** 16m HVS 5b S. Windrim, D. Windrim, 8/8/76. A very good climb. Start below a short overhanging and curving groove 10m left of the deep corner, Genesis. Pull up into the groove and exit right to a good hold (crux). Move up and back left and follow a steep crack to finish.

'''AUTOMANIA''' 16m E2 6a D. O Sullivan (solo), 8/7/85. Start 2m right of Atomic Rooster. Climb up a faint groove in the wall until it is possible to move left to a ledge (crux). Continue up the bulging wall to the right of a V-groove to the triangular niche. Finish as for Preacher-Heckler.

'''PREACHER-HECKLER''' * 16m E1 5b A combination of two routes. A serious climb with poor protection it follows the shallow groove 6m left of the deep corner. Climb the groove to a ledge at 3m. Continue up until it is possible to step left and up to the vertical wall above (Preacher traverses left at this point). Move right and finish up the leftward trending crack of Heckler.

'''PREACHER''' E1 5b B. Richardson, C. Richardson, Easter 1976. Climb leftwards up the headwall via the triangular niche. No protection.

'''HECKLER''' 17m E1 5a J. Colton, 21/8/77. Start at the short, smooth wall 2m left of Genesis. Climb the blocky groove to the overhang and follow the crack trending leftward to the top.

'''DIRGE''' 16m E1 5c M. Manson, June 1985. A contrived route taking the arête left of Genesis, easier if you bridge off the right wall Start up Genesis and move left to the arête. Climb this without bridging.

'''GENESIS''' ** 16m HS 4b J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. This climb takes the deep south-facing corner which bounds the right-hand end of the long wall. A justifiably popular route. Gain the ledge at the bottom of the corner (awkward) and climb this passing a short steep section with a rattly block (crux).

'''GENOCIDE''' 15m E4/5 6a R. Browner, J. Gillmor, 6/5/96. Start right of Genesis. Climb past a series of ledges to a good hold on the bulging wall above. From here a long move leads to an easier finish. Limited R.P. protection.

'''STONED''' * 15m E3 5c N. Holliday, T. Sauerbridge, 19/4/79. Easy for the grade but with spaced gear. Start below a thin crack in the wall 5m right of Genesis. Climb to the base of the crack. Step left and up the crack (crux) to obvious flakes (loose). Continue steeply to the top.

'''AN PUKA'''* 15m E4 6b Start as for Stoned. Gain the left trending crack on Stoned, arrange gear and step back to below smooth wall. Move out and up on small edges to gain a layaway hold (good peg). Pull through to a ﬂ at ledge which isn’t as comfortable as it looks. A desperate move leads to the crack and an easy ﬁnish.

'''BONNAN BUI''' ** 15m VS 4c J. Mulhall, J. McKenzie, 26/11/72. A fine and popular route, it takes a groove which starts at mid-height on the wall right of Genesis. Start 7m right of Genesis under an arête. Climb just left of the arête and up past a hollow-sounding flake (crux).

'''NUTROCKER''' ** 15m HVS 5a S. Young, J. Mulhall (aid used on first ascent), 7/8/72. J. Levy (free), May 1975. Excellent climbing up the steep corner 8m right of Genesis, easier if you are tall.

'''SUBSTANTIAL DOUBTS''' E3/4 6a Dave Ayton, Neal McQuaid 05/2004 (Lead onsight) Get established at the base of the corner of Nutrocker. Place some bomber gear and traverse out left to the arête using some enticing edges. From here mosey on up the arête to the ledge at 3 quarters height passing some pleasant moves on tinies for feet. A fall from the crux, which is the last move before reaching the ledge, would not be advisable. From the ledge climb the last 3m directly up the wall to finish

'''UP IN SMOKE''' 15m E2 5c T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 30/4/84. A musical route on dubious flakes, it climbs the wall 4m right of the corner. Step left off the boulder and climb a short, blank groove to rattly blocks. Step right to a large ledge. Move back left onto squeaky flakes and continue to the top.

'''SADDLEBACK SOW''' * 14m HVS 5b T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 23/7/77. Good climbing with a hard start and a gymnastic finish. This route takes the rightward-trending roof crack which starts at mid-height. Start 4m right of Nutrocker. Climb the triangular rock (hard) and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Move left to a large ledge below the overhang. Climb the crack strenuously to the top.

'''PINK POSY SLAB''' 14m E1 5b B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1976 This serious little route with the crux at the start and poor protection all the way takes an obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start as for Saddleback Sow. Step onto the wall and make a difficult move up rightwards into the groove. Climb the slab to its top right-hand corner and finish up the groove.

'''EIGHTY MINUTE HOUR''' E2/3 5b Diarmuid Duggan, James Cruickshank April 2004 Start as for The Tilt. After 2 meters traverse back left and rock over onto the Pink Posy Slab. Climb straight up the head wall on side pulls and shallow pockets.

'''THE TILT''' 14m E2 5c/6a C. Torrans, T. Ryan, C. Evans, 1987. A gymnastic climb with a bold finish taking the short slab below Pink Posy Slab. Start directly below the white stain on the sloping shelf and climb the short wall to the bottom of the shelf and stain (often wet). Gain the shelf with difficulty and then climb the groove above (small wires down on the right).

'''GUILLOTINE''' 12m HS 4b H. Hennessy, M. Walsh, 5/8/2009 re climbed after Boulder moved E3/4 6a H.Hennessy, D. Dillon 30/5/2020
Start as for "AMHRASACH" move left to the bottom of the groove, climb this with increasing difficulty to a sloping ledge. Finish up the overhang on good holds. (Toproped prior to accent)

'''AMHRASACH''' 12m HVS 5b J. McKenzie, D. Mitchell, 5/11/72. Reclimbed after storm damage. C.Ryan A.Abele 2014 Climb up on the right of the bulge to the large loose hold. Passed this gain a poor hand jam via some undercuts. Reach out left to a good hold and continue to the top.

'''SON OF SAM''' ** 11m E1 5c T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 24/7/77. A muscular sort of route. Start below a steep corner at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of the detached pillar. Climb the corner crack to a ledge at mid-height and finish up the overhanging groove above.

'''ROUTE 32''' ** 11m E2 6a T. Irving, P. Wynne, 24/7/77. Several nuts were used for aid on the first ascent but these were eliminated by T. Irving on the second ascent. Short but with excellent sustained climbing, a popular and well protected route. This is the thin crack at the top of the rockfall and 2m right of Son Of Sam.

'''WHITEWASH''' * 11m E2 5c (E3 5c)* A. White 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). 6m left of Blasket there is a peg at 4m in a faint rib. Climb to this and delicately rock past it into the loose faint groove above. Follow this to the top.*** The peg is now rotted, a bouldering mat and slider nut is recommended when attempting this route***

'''GREEN WASH''' 11m E2 6a S. McEvoy, 26/3/94, (practised on top rope). An eliminate start to Whitewash which goes directly up the thin crack to the peg and reaches out to the end of the diagonal crack on the right.

'''DROP THE DEAD DONKEY''' 11m E4 6a F. Richard's, 26/3/94, (solo) Boldly boulder up the seemingly blank wall just right of Whitewash on small crimps to the horizontal break. Continue more easily direct to the top, passing some suspect rock.

'''BLASKET''' 10m E1 5c T. Ryan, L. Higgs, 8/8/76. This is the short undercut corner above the top right-hand end of the rockfall. Originally graded Severe, rockfall has produced a tricky start out of keeping with the rest of the route.

==Aran Wall==

Right of Blasket the boulder pile is lower and consequently the climbs are longer. The projecting 28m high wall right of the rockfall is Aran Wall. The first obvious feature on this section is a corner which starts at half-height just right of Blasket. The next feature is a pair of parallel cracks, still at the left end of the wall. The central section has several fine cracks and further right is a large deep cave from which a leftward-trending crack leads to a smaller cave near the top. All the routes on Aran Wall are very steep and of excellent quality. Boulder movement during winter storms can change the starts of these routes.

'''ROLLER BALL''' * 28m E3 5c T. Irving, August 1977. A technical and serious climb on excellent rock. This route takes a short corner that starts at mid-height right of Blasket. It is reached by a line of weakness from the right. Start below a vague arête at some whitish rock. Climb the wall (hard) to a niche. Move up and diagonally left to a resting foothold on a slab and finish up the corner.

'''THE INNER TORMENT OF PROFESSOR ROBERTS''' E7 6c R. Druce, R. Browner, R. Bell, N. Callender. 12. Sept. 2005.

Essentially the direct start to Rollerball. Ramble up the confused ledges to a large sloping sidepull directly under the finish of Rollerball. Stab your way up a series of dramatic soapy edges with potential for small gear in the leftward leading seam to your right. Aim for the top from here.

Top-roped prior to ascent.

'''Stranger Things''' E6 6c
Conor McGovern

Climb Rollerball until below the final corner. Step right onto the steep wall and make a serious of strenuous moves to finish around the arete.

'''FORBIDDEN KINK''' 28m E6 6c R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 16/3/97. Start as for Rollerball and continue up the blunt arete without the blatantly manufactured peg placement.

'''GALLOWS POLE''' *** 28m E2 5c K. Higgs, T. Ryan, S. Windrim, 21/8/77. A superb climb, the classic E2 of the crag. Start below the obvious pair of right-slanting parallel cracks near the left end of Aran Wall and just right of Rollerball. Climb steeply up a groove to a small overhang and around this to the base of the cracks. Climb these (crux) directly to the top.

'''MARCHANDED CRACK''' ** 28m E2 5b B. Richardson, J. Levy, May 1975. An interesting and at times awkward route from the early years of development. Start on the boulders just right of Gallows Pole. Trending rightwards climb steeply to a sloping ledge. Gain another ledge on the right. Move up left into a small niche and up to a larger niche (crux). Move right and finish steeply on good holds.

'''MIDNIGHT SUMMER DREAM''' ** 28m E3 5c T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 18/9/82. This route takes a crack that starts at mid-height just right of Marchanded Crack. Climb Marchanded Crack to the second sloping ledge on the right. Step right to the crack. Climb this (crux) to a poor rest in an inhospitable niche. Finish steeply up the crack on the left.

'''DESOLATION ROW''' ** 28m E4 6a E. Cooper, C. Torrans, April 1984. An exciting and varied route taking the crack and right trending fault line just right of Midnight Summer Dream. Start as for that route. Step down from the second niche to the bottom of the crack. Climb this (sustained) to a niche. Move up and follow the fault on the right to the top.

Direct Start 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 15/5/84. Climb the ramp of Sunstone, step left and climb the bulge to the bottom of the crack.

'''SUNBANE''' ** 30m E6 6b/c K. Murphy, J. Adams, 31/5/90. (Climbed with falls and then redpointed on gear left in place). Takes the little crack which runs from Sunstone to Desolation Row. Start up Sunstone until it is possible to step left into the base of the thin crack. Climb this to finish up Desolation Row.

'''SUNSTONE''' *** 30m E3 6a T. Ryan, D. O Connell, 25/5/83. An excellent route with a steep and technical start. It follows a right-trending ramp and crack right of Marchanded Crack. Make difficult moves onto the ramp and continue up and right to the steep crack. Sustained climbing to the top.

Direct Start 6a K. Murphy, 1984. Climb the bottomless groove to the crack

'''ELIMINATOR''' *** 28m E5 6b D. O Sullivan (yo-yoed), 12/8/85. This route takes the thin crack between Sunstone and Kleptomaniac. Start just left of Kleptomaniac at the edge of an overhung niche. Climb a short corner to the overhang. Traverse left using a good crack until it is possible to exit straight up. After a few metres move left and gain a good stance beneath Sunstone. Move right to a spacious ledge under the obvious crack. Climb the crack to the overhang (crux). Continue up through the apex of the overhang following the continuation crack to the top (sustained).

Direct Start 6b E. Cooper, 1988. Climb directly to the end of the traverse.

'''KLEPTOMANIAC''' *** 29m E3 6a K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. A magnificent climb, sustained and strenuous. Start below the obvious straight crack with yellow lichen in the middle of Aran Wall and 10m right of Marchanded Crack. Climb over a bulge at the start and gain a sloping ledge below a thin section of the crack. Climb this (crux) to good jams where the crack widens. Continue past a small bulge to the top.

'''EARTHLING''' 29m E6 6c R. Browner, H. Hebblethwaite, 30/3/97 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). The hacked and pegged crack-line just right of Kleptomaniac. Start 3m right of Kleptomaniac. Climb to the ledge, continue up the thin crack and finish trending slightly rightward.

'''GREY DAWN''' ** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite, August 1988. (Runners pre-clipped above the crux) Takes the thin crack left of Point Blank. Climb Point Blank to the ledge below the thin crack. From the thin crack move left on face holds to reach another thin crack. Climb this strenuously to a ledge and continue up the crack to the top.

'''POINT BLANK''' ** 30m E4 6b E. Cooper, C. Torrans, (1 rest point), 4/6/85. G. Gibson (free), 1986. A superb technical pitch which takes the thin crackline up the wall left of the cave. Climb the corner formed by a hanging slab to a small ledge below a thin crack. Gain the shallow corner above (crux). Sustained climbing to a ledge with a hard move to reach jugs. Move left and up to the top.

'''POINTLESS''' 30m E4 6a E. Cooper, 1992. Start just right of Point Blank. Climb the bulge right of Point Blank to the cave on Lucy. Traverse right under the overhang and then climb positively through it and up the steep wall to the top.

'''LUCY''' ** 32m E2 5c K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/9/82. This fine route takes the obvious left-trending fault that starts in a cave near the right end of Aran Wall. Start just left of the fault line. Depending on the position of the boulders reach or jump to gain the horizontal lip. Climb steeply into the wide crack. Up this easily to the deep cave above. Move out left and climb the diagonal crack in the headwall to the top (crux). High in the grade.

Alternative start E2 6a E. Cooper, September 1984. Gain the slabby nose of rock on the left side of the cave. Move right and climb a short V-chimney to join the original route. This can be much easier, depending on the position of the boulders.

'''STIGMATA''' *** 32m E6 6b C. Waddy, 1986. Start at the back of the cave to the right of Lucy. Climb the steep overhanging groove past the peg (rusty), continue up the groove and finish up the wall above.

'''BLOCKHEAD''' ** 32m E4 6a K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 12/5/84. A tremendous spectacular climb. Start just left of the right arête of the cave on Aran Wall. Climb up on good holds until a long reach leads right to the arête. Step up and reach back left to a good hold. Difficult moves lead to a vague niche, then gain a slab on the right (crux). Climb up steeply past a corner to a large ledge and finish up the steep crack on the wall above.

'''SKYWALKER''' ** 32m E2 5c K. Murphy, T. Ryan, September 1981. A popular route with good sustained climbing. Right of the deep cave on Aran Wall there is a huge projecting block at two-thirds height. This route takes a thin crack that leads up the right side of the block. Climb directly to the crack and follow this to the overhang and jutting flake formed by the right edge of the projecting block. Continue up a short corner above to the top of the block (crux). Finish up steep cracks in the top wall.

Direct Start

- The original start was via the horizontal crack running in from the right. E. Cooper climbed the direct start at 6b (September '84) but boulders piled in the area can make it the easier option.

Variation 5c F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1996. A link between Skywalker and Blockhead has been climbed. >From the bottom of the vertical crack move up leftward on the yellow rock to the bottom left-hand corner of the block. Finish up Blockhead.

'''MOMENTS OF INERTIA''' ** 30m E3 6a J. Colton, D. Somers, July 1977. Low in the grade for those with a long reach. It takes the blank corner and arête just right of the thin crack on Skywalker. Climb directly to the ledge as for Skywalker (the original start was a traverse in from the right). Step up right to the foot of the corner. Up this until a good hold halfway up a yellow streak on the right can be reached with difficulty. Using this climb the arête and corner to a good ledge on the right. Climb a crack in the wall above to the top.

Variation 6a W. Rock, 1995. Continue up the corner without traversing right.

'''HIGH PROFILE''' 30m E3 6a K. Murphy, E. Cooper, 5/4/85. Follows the diagonal crack going left out of Moon Rill. Follow the Moon Rill corner to where a crack leads diagonally left. Make a couple of hard moves across to the arête and follow this, going just left to the corner to finish. (Possible to climb the crack up the arête).

[[File:Crowbar.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/Crowbar.jpg]]

'''THE LITTLEST CROWBAR''' * 25m E3 6a C. Shannon, J. Harrison, 3/5/10 (Worked on top-rope prior to ascent). This route climbs the steep head wall just left of Moon Rill. From the large ledge half way up Moon Rill, climb the hollow flake on the left to gain the first of 2 ledges. Arrange gear and then make a hard move to gain the second ledge. From here it is possible to move right onto the aret and finish on easier ground. A direct finish is possible, avoiding the arete completly and following the hair-line crack on crimps to the large niche and then the top. Probably E4 6a.

Note: The hollow flake was once loose and should probably not be used for protection.

'''MOON RILL''' * 25m VS 4c J. Mulhall, S. Young, 7/8/72. This climb takes the first of the two right-facing corners forming the southern end of Aran Wall. Scramble up to the corner. Move up, trending right, to a large ledge. Climb up ledges to a corner and step left to finish up a good crack (crux) or finish directly up.

'''STARDUST''' ** 25m E3 5c T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 13/5/84. This strenuous and sustained route takes a steep right-trending overlap and crack just right of Moon Rill. Start below the right-hand corner and climb it to a ledge below an overhanging right-trending crack. Climb this and over an overhang to gain a thin crack above. Follow this steeply to the top.

'''SEA OF DREAMS''' 25m E6 6b Andy Long, Pat Nolan, 31/07/05 Start as for Stardust. As for Stardust, climb the corner for 3m before heading out right on a thin diagonal crack (often damp). Hard moves gain the vertical crack which is followed to a peg. Continue up the not so juggy ﬂake to the top.

'''The Crying Game''' 25m E6 6b Start below a shallow groove leading to a broken crackline. Thin and bold moves lead up the groove to the base of the crack(good wires up high). Hard moves then lead to a large ledge followed by the ﬁnal steep headwall which is climbed direct.

'''VERY BIG SPRINGS''' *** 25m E6 6b G. Smith, 1993. The thin crackline in the gold-coloured wall 10m right of Stardust. Mantel the ledge and clip a peg (good no. 1 Friend). Stretch for some side-holds high above. Gain the handrails above, leading to more beyond (good wires in the crack). A desperate move leads to improving holds straight above or a plummet.

'''The MacPhearson Strut''' 25m E7 6b Andy Long, Jason Pickles, 2006, Essentially a direct start to Hoping. Start 3m right of Very Big Springs. Climb the groove and blunt nose to a peg runner and good friend above this at 8m. Hard moves past this lead to another peg (best tied off). Move right into a scoop then back left. Follow crack to top.

'''Hoping'''* 25m E5 6a G Gibson, T Ryan, June 1989. Start as for Line of Fire. Climb up 6m of this route until the ledge on the left wall is gained. Peg runner. Move left from here around the arête to an exciting position on ﬂ at holds. Summon the courage and move out along the diagonal crack to arête. Small wires at top of crack. Step left into the upper crack system and up this to top.

'''LINE OF FIRE''' ** 25m E2 5b T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 nut for aid), July 1977.E. Cooper (free), Easter 1982. A good route giving excellent bridging up the overhanging groove in the next big corner.

'''The next two routes are on the fine wall to the right of Line of Fire.'''

'''ICE QUEEN''' *** 25m E5 6a G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. An immaculate pitch taking a line roughly up the centre of the wall. Quite bold and fingery. Start from a small ledge at a slight depression. Follow the depression up rightwards to a peg runner in a thin crack. Move up left to a slot then straight up to good holds below the final thin crack. Climb this leftwards to the top.

'''The Manhattan Project''' * E5 6b R. Browner, M. Duffy. 24.07.09, A worthy link-up, which has more than enough quality to compensate for any lack of independence. Start at the base of Wall of Fossils but stay left, out on the face, where a series of awkward right facing lay-aways lead upward (past a small wire runner) until it is possible to stretch across into Ice Queen below the peg. Follow Ice Queen as far as the, pleasantly odd, side-pull jug. Then depart leftward on undercuts and side-pulls into a shallow groove with a disappointing pocket which is used to gain the horizontal brake, crux. Escape left across the brake to join the upper corner of Stardust. 

'''WALL OF FOSSILS''' *** 25m E4 6a K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. A tremendous route, bold and exciting. It takes a thin crack up the wall right of Line of Fire. Start under a groove and overhang near the right arête of the wall. Climb the groove and layback over the overhang to an easy groove on the right. Up this to a second overhang and step up left on good holds. Climb the steep wall and thin crack (crux) to the top.

'''FALL OF WOSSILS''' ** 25m E4 6b G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling, 23/6/85. The striking right arête of Wall Of Fossils gives an impressive and unusual pitch. Start as for Wall of Fossils and follow it until it moves up left through the overhang. Arrange gear and move right to the arête with difficulty. A peg runner in the break above protects the arête which is climbed on its right side.

'''HANG ABOUT''' 28m E2 6a T. Irving, P. Wynne, July 1977 (original HVS route). This route was once an innocuous HVS but lost its start in a storm and now shares the tricky groove at the start of Wall of Fossils. Follow this route as far as the easy groove on the right. From here trend rightwards to the steep section of Ladda. Climb the crux of Ladda, step left and finish up the wall above.

'''LADDA''' 26m VS 4c A. Douglas, D. O Murchu, (1 aid point), 28/10/72. S. Windrim, (free), 1974. The next corner system. Climb corner easily to a ledge below this next corner system. Climb the steep corner (crux) and continue to the top. Hard for the grade

'''CHOCKS AWAY''' 26m HVS 5a J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95, Take the right-hand crack and corner. Climb easily on sloping ledges to where the corner steepens. Climb this for 8m (crux) after which the angle eases.

'''HY BRASIL''' E2 5a 35m R. Browner, J. Mulloy, 14 June 2013. An airy traverse, with serious pendulum potential, that crosses the upper bulge of the yellow wall between Chocks Away and Tombstone Terror. Start as for Chocks Away and as the angle of the steep corner eases, move out right onto the face to good wire protection. Leave this behind and cool the long traverse right across the wall, passing marginal micro wires in a horizontal crack, before the crux which gains the finishing 2m corner of Tombstone Terror. Note: This route was particularly hard to grade and the grade suggested is unconfirmed. The climbing is not difficult and it may be easier than E2 but it could also feel a lot harder to a leader who loses confidence while facing a possible 20m ground fall.

'''TOMBSTONE TERROR''' 25m E3 5b C. Torrans, N. O Dea, June 1990. A bold route taking a line up the wall beside the huge monolithic boulder to the right of Box of Chocks corner. Chimney up between the wall and this plinth until you reach the top of the boulder. From here throw yourself onto the wall (and the mercy of the gods, this is the crux). Once you are on move up and left on good holds until you gain the ledges above and onto the corner and the cracks to the top.

'''LOSING TOUCH''' 24m E6 6a R. Browner, P. Leane, (Practised on top rope) 9/7/95. This takes the arête between the huge block of Tombstone Terror and the wide crack of Hooked on Crack. Climb past a ledge to a long move which gains a good hold high on the arête. Swing left and make another hard move to gain another good hold. Continue up onto a ledge at the base of a steep groove. Climb this on good holds and move easily on to a mantel finish.

[[File:HookedOnCrack.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/HookedOnCrack.jpg]] ''Hooked on Crack E1 5b''

'''HOOKED ON CRACK''' 24m E1 5b J. Hawkins, J. Beard, 6/2/95. This is the last corner at the southern end of Dancing Ledges. It also forms the northern (left) limit of Mirror Wall. Climb easily to the base of the corner. Climb the crack (strenuous) and make an awkward move at half height on to the sloping ledge on the left wall (crux). Pass the block which is wedged here with difficulty and finish more easily.

'''FAITH''' E7 6c Andy Long, Chegs Evans, 03/08/05 Starts R. of Hooked On Crack. Climb the L. hand of the two cracks to the narrow ledge. Arrange gear in the crack above then fall up the headwall moving slightly R. then back left at the top. view comments(1)

==Mirror Wall==

This is the very impressive wall south of Dancing Ledges. Most of this section of the cliff is tidal and the routes are reached by boulder-hopping at low tide or by abseil. Great care should be taken in this area as it is tidal and the rock at the base of the routes is sharp. At low tide you can boulder hop as far as the corner of PIS FLIUCH.

'''FLAWS IN THE GLASS''' 35m E6 6b G. Smith (on sight). This is the obvious rightward facing slim groove near the left end of Mirror Wall. Climb the groove (easy at first) to where it steepens and make difficult moves onto the ledge out left. Continue with difficulty up the groove above and over the overlap past suspect pegs in the headwall.

'''SEEING THINGS''' *** 36m E6 6b A. Wainwright, G. Smith, 1993 The thin crack left of Refraction, as good as it looks. Climb onto a ledge and go rightwards past a peg into the thin crack. Sustained climbing past a further peg leads to better holds and a crack proper. Follow this more easily and make a wild move into Refraction. Gasp to the top.

'''REFRACTION''' *** 36m E5 6a J. Codling, G. Gibson, M. Manson, 23/6/85. (The account of the first ascent does not mention the numerous yoyos and the rest point which were seen to be used. ) An outstanding pitch which takes the dog-leg crack 20m right of the groove-line near the left-hand side of Mirror Wall. Stretch from a large flat-topped rock to boulder over a bulge past a thread to a rest point below the crack. Race the crack for 10m to a respite where it turns left. Move up and left to a better rest above the overlap. Follow the crack until it runs out. Sequence the wall above past a peg - strenuous. The original start described above became more difficult when the boulders shifted and was climbed by D. Lee at 6c. Climbers usually abseil to the first ledge.

'''VIRTUAL IMAGE''' ** 30m E3 6a K Murphy, T. Ryan, 19/9/82. Excellent climbing in a superb situation. The route takes an obvious straight and continuous crack line near the left end of Mirror Wall. The route was originally climbed starting from a boulder at the bottom but as this has since become much harder it is customary to abseil to a hanging belay in the crack 2m above a small ledge. Continue up with sustained difficulties (crux) to a horizontal break and rest at a niche. Climb the crack above to the top with help from a niche on the left.

'''Snell’s Law''' 36m E7 6c Sean Villaneuva, Kevin Power, May 2007. Climb as for Refraction to the resting ledge, arrange gear and move out right and up the thin wall above. A dynamic move leads to a break and more gear. Finish directly.

'''ZEBEDEE''' ** 35m E4/5 6a D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, July 1991. A strenuous alternative to Virtual Image, this takes the right-trending fault that breaks out about mid-height from said route. Follow Virtual Image to the bulging section at the top of the corner/groove. Move right to a large pocket and then up over a bulge to better holds. Keep going until you can move right to gain entry to a shallow runnel. Up this (past an elephant-stopping thread) to a horizontal break and finish hastily up the thin crack to the top.

'''THE CUTTER''' *** 43m E4 6a G. Gibson, J. Codling, 24/6/85. This is the stunning rightward-trending crack right of Virtual Image. Strenuous and sustained climbing on a brilliant line. Abseil to a ledge at the bottom of the crack. Climb past a niche and a break until the crack begins to fade. Continue directly to the top. High in the grade.

'''PHOENIX IN THE MIRROR''' *** 35m E6 6c D. Lee, G. Lee, July 1996. The striking thin crack in the wall 12m right of The Cutter gives a superlative route with a good finish up the wall above. Start on an appropriate boulder. Gain the crack quite boldly and follow it with sustained interest but good protection to where it runs out. Make a hard move leftwards to gain a series of holds running slightly leftward up the wall. Finish more directly from a break.

'''FACE TO FACE''' ** 45m E5 6a,6a J. Codling, G. Gibson, 24/6/85. Start 15m left of Through The Looking Glass by stretching from a boulder to an overhanging wall. (1) 15m Climb directly up to join and follow Through The Looking Glass, up a groove and then left to the crack. Teeter leftwards, then down with difficulty to a ledge and belay (backrope required for the second). (2) 30m Move leftwards and climb boldly up a series of blank ramps to a ledge. Climb the crack and walls/ledges above.

'''THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS''' *** 36m E3 6a K. Murphy, T. Ryan, August 1982. An excellent climb. This route takes a right-slanting crackline left of the ramp which is the obvious line of weakness on Mirror Wall. The crack peters out near the bottom but is reached by a traverse and vague groove on the right. Belay on a spacious flat boulder below the groove. Cross boulders on the right to the start of The Ramp. Step across to a narrow ledge at the base of the wall and start at the left end of this, opposite the belay boulder. Make a hard move up to gain a horizontal break. Traverse left to the bottom of the vague groove. Climb this until it is possible to traverse left to the crack and up this to a sloping ledge. Climb the thin crack above (crux) to a horizontal break (rest). Continue up with difficulty to a wide crack and hence more easily to the top.

Direct start E3 6a

This starts from a boulder in line with the bottom of the crack.

'''LOOKING BACK''' * 36m E5 6a/b E. Cooper, P. McArthur, 9/7/95. Follow Through the Looking Glass to the ledge below the thin crack. Move up and right to a pedestal. Exciting climbing should lead to a standing position on top of this. A series of thin cracks and flakes and a short fingery wall leads to the top.

'''ON REFLECTION''' *** 36m E6 6a G. Gibson, M. Manson, J. Codling. 23/6/85. A magnificent route taking the thin grooves just left of The Ramp. Sustained with only adequate protection. Gain and climb the groove using the thin crack in the left wall for protection until it fades. Swing boldly right and attain a standing position on a shelf. Continue straight up to faint right-veering cracks. Follow these to a small ledge and finish up the wall above.

'''THE RAMP''' *** 40m E1 5b, 5a D. Somers, J. Dwyer (1 aid point) 9/7/77. C. Torrans (free), 1977. A fine route with exposed climbing in a superb situation. Near the right-hand end of Mirror Wall there is a very obvious rightward-trending ramp. Start on boulders below the base of the ramp (1) Step across onto a ledge directly under the base of the ramp and climb up and mantelshelf onto a ledge 3m higher. Climb a groove and move out right onto the ramp. Continue up and along this to a sitting belay ledge in a fine position. (2) Traverse right to a short corner. Up this, traverse right and finish straight up.

'''NARCISSUS''' ** 35m E5 6a, 6a E. Cooper, A. Moles, 11/6/88. A desperate start leads to highly enjoyable climbing up the wall above. Start just right of a short hanging corner situated to the right of The Ramp. (1) Climb the wall and then the arête of the groove to gain the bottom of the crack in the wall above (crux). Continue with less difficulty up the crack and wall above to the ramp. Belay as for The Ramp. (2) From the apex move left and follow the line of weakness until a ledge is gained delicately. Step right to a crack and up easily to the top.

'''PRISM SENTENCE''' *** 38m E5 6a,6b G. Gibson, unseconded. 25/6/85. Climbed in one pitch on first ascent. A powerful line taking the groove below The Ramp and the wall above. Good protection although the move off The Ramp is most disconcerting. Start at the foot of the obvious groove. (1) 20m Gain the groove and climb it by inverted laybacking until it disappears. Swing right and up a short crack to a ledge. Move up left to The Ramp and follow it right to its belay. (2) 18m From just right of the point of arrival on The Ramp climb straight up the wall above with a very awkward start.

'''Quicksilver'''*** 31m E5 6a E. Cooper, S. McEvoy, 18/6/88. A brilliant route. Start below the ﬁ rst corner and chimney line of the southern end of Mirror Wall (Peanut Butter Special). Climb up a few metres until it is possible to traverse left to the base of a thin crack system. Follow the crack until it becomes too thin, make hard moves up to gain better holds and continue up the wall above with sustained interest,
ﬁnishing up a single crack with a small ramp on its right. '''Direct Start''': Avoids the chimney of the start of Peanut Butter Special by climbing the desperate black wall. (6b)

'''PEANUT BUTTER SPECIAL''' 33m VS 4b,4b B. Richardson, S. Young, 28/10/72. Start on a ledge under the first corner and chimney line at the southern (right) end of Mirror Wall. (1) Climb up and step right to a small ledge, then go left into the chimney to a crack on the right wall. Climb the crack to a large ledge and belay. (2) Gain the top of a large wobbly-looking flake and traverse into a short corner which leads to the top.

'''OBSCENE SARDINE''' 30m VS 4c,4c S. Young, B. Richardson, 28/10/72. A short awkward start leads to a pleasant chimney pitch. Start on boulders below a groove just around the arête right of Peanut Butter Special. (1) Climb the groove passing a chockstone to a ledge. Move left and up the open groove (crux) to a ledge and hence to the belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) Pitch 2 of Peanut Butter Special.

'''TEMPTATION''' 26m E4 6a,6a K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 22/7/84. A difficult and serious climb. Start on boulders below a short corner just right of Obscene Sardine. (1) 20m Climb the corner to a ledge on the right. Step left and follow an awkward jamming crack to a narrow ledge. Climb the thin difficult crack above to the wide belay ledge of Peanut Butter Special. (2) 6m Gain a shallow groove on the right wall and up this to the top.

'''PEANUT SHELLER''' 30m HVS 5a,4b J. Levy, C. Richardson, P. McMenamin, Easter 1977. A brute of a chimney. Start on boulders below the second (middle) corner at the southern end of Mirror Wall and 10m right of Obscene Sardine. (1) Step down off the boulders into the corner and up to a small ledge below a tight chimney. Climb the chimney (crux) and continue up the corner crack to a belay ledge. (2) Finish up the corner as for Peanut Butter Special.

'''PEPPERMINT KISS''' ** 30m E5 6a A. White, S. McEvoy, 12/6/94. (practised on a top-rope) An excellent, sustained and poorly protected route although the nearness of the Peanut Sheller crack reduces the seriousness of the crux. Start on the left of the wall on good holds and move up and right, placing skyhooks out right and a crucial no. 4 at the rest in a crozzle pocket, before committing to the crux moves up through the niche. Exit this (don't use the corner) up to a horizontal break. From here, step right, and continue up the wall and slab, passing near the right arete to the top.

'''FATAL ATTRACTION''' ** 30m E4 6a E. Cooper, T. Cooper, 20/5/88 (on sight). A committing lead with a very serious start. Climb the arête left of Black Baron to a ledge. From the left side of this step onto the wall and make a difficult move over a bulge to gain the arête above. Continue up the arête to an overhang, step left and follow the wall and slab directly to the top.

'''BLACK BARON''' ** 30m E2 5b T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 19/9/82. Excellent climbing with poor protection. Start on boulders below the arête left of Pis Fliuch. Gain a ledge near the bottom and climb a crack on the right wall of the arête. Place runners near the top of the crack. Descend, and from about halfway up the crack traverse left on small holds to the arête and up to a small ledge beneath an overhang. Pass the overhang on the right and enter a slabby groove below a second and larger overhang. Move right under this and up the shallow groove above with a surprisingly difficult move to finish.

'''JOKER MAN''' ** 30m E6 6b E. Cooper, 20/5/88 (one rest point). E. Cooper (free), 4/5/96. An exhausting and technical climb that is well worth the effort. Climb the crack and groove of Black Baron and continue to the roof. Take a good rest before attacking the energy-sapping crack above, which leads to a break (rest point just below the break). Move left and gain the crack above which is followed to the top.

'''DAMN THE TORPEDOES''' *** 30m E5 6a E. Cooper, 1992. Enjoyable, sustained climbing up the offset crack left of Shark Bait. Follow the crack to the break, move left to the continuation crack which is followed to the top. Well protected.

'''SHARKBAIT''' *** 30m E5 6b H. Hebblethwaite (one rest point), June 1988. E. Cooper (free), 1992 Takes the continuous crackline up the wall left of Pis Fliuch. From the boulders traverse into the right-hand of two savage-looking cracks (not as bad as it looks). Climb the sustained crack with difficulty to reach a jammed block and a rest. Continue up the crack to the top.

'''PIS FLIUCH''' *** 30m HVS 5a J. McKenzie, J. Mulhall, 25/11/72. The impressive corner south of Mirror Wall gives one of the classic routes in the country. Traverse the boulders to the foot of the third and biggest corner at the right end of Mirror Wall. Climb the corner, crux at mid-height.

'''DANGEROUS SPLIFF FACE'''* E6 6b Craig Adam, Andy Marshall Climbs the slab left of Key Largo, start as for that route. From the ledge below the ramp step left and cross the bulge using a slanting crack. Climb straight up to rejoin Key Largo. Traverse the break leftwards to a stance before pulling up to an undercut below the centre of the slab. Make hard moves up and then right to a good hold below the final break. Pull up to stand on this then finish up the corner.

Excellent bold climbing but escape would be possible from the middle break. Take 4 or 5 1 nuts and don't even think about it if it's greasy

'''KEY LARGO''' ** 30m E3 5c C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 30/9/84. Dramatic climbing up the arête right of Pis Fliuch, small wires for protection, a serious route. Climb the slabby wall easily to a large ledge above the tide line. Move left and climb the short steep ramp (crux) to a ledge. Move left and climb the overlap to a small shelf on the left. Mantel onto the shelf and move back onto the arête, climb this to the top.

Direct Finish 20m E3 5c James O Reilly, Peter Owens, June 1997 Climb Key Largo to the point where the route moves left to the shelf out on the left face. Instead of moving left continue directly up the arête to gain a good finger lock in a spectacular position (#4 wire). Make a difficult move up the arête to reach better holds and the top.

'''HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION''' ** 30m E3 6a C. Torrans, E. Cooper, 1987. A very good route taking the wall right of the arête of Key Largo. Start as for Key Largo below the first ramp of this route. Easily up ledges to the bottom of the ramp and move right onto the wall and vicious crack (this section is often wet and can be bypassed by using the ramp of Key Largo), whichever way you go finish up on a large ledge. From the right end of the ledge climb the bulging wall via a short groove. Continue up and then left on good cracks and edges. add comment

==Stone Wall==

The sea cuts off access to the climbs around the arête south of Pis Fliuch. The cliffs are 30m high, very steep and smooth and resemble Mirror Wall.

Stone Wall is the projecting cliff immediately south of Pis Fliuch. It gets its name from the stone wall that runs down from the road to the edge of the cliff.

Access to all of these routes is by abseil. It is essential to be aware of tide and weather conditions before climbing on them. See note on abseils, page ?.

'''DASIES, BUTTERFLIES AND BRICKS''' * 18m E2/3 5c D.Smyth, J.McCune 15/4/2009 4m North of Garbh a thin crack marks the finish, ab in just N of the crack to stance at bottom of right trending crack. Shuffle sharply up this to join Garbh via a mantel. Follow Garbh until a jug and horizontal break, sequency moves out left and a stretch to a slopey ledge gains a flake to the top.

'''GARBH''' ** 21m E2 5b C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 21/5/78. After a finger-tearing start the climbing is excellent. Start 7m south of the arête on Key Largo, a wide crack marks the top. Abseil down to a belay at the foot of a left-facing corner. The crack is difficult to start. Continue up passing three small niches to an awkward finish.

'''FORTY COATS''' 18m E4 6a D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, June 1994. First climbed in a gale, this route takes an unlikely line directly below the stonewall/fence line. Strenuous. Abseil from triangular niche directly below the fence to belay in a large triangular niche (Friend 1 and small wires). A prominent fault breaks out right from the apex of the niche. Gain this (Friend 3.5) and climb rightwards for 3-4m. Now climb up to the break above (crux) and finish directly via the brown runnel.

'''WESTERN PRIDE''' ** 17m E2 5c C. Parkin, P. Blackburn, 19/4/79. A good route which justifies the effort to reach it. Abseil down a crack 3m south of the fence to a ledge. Climb the crack, crux at 5m.

'''FISH RISING''' 24m E4 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. There is a black groove with a thin crack line about 3m left of Jug City. Climb the crack/groove to the second break, traverse left and then finish up the obvious thin ledges (crux).

'''The Horizontal Dance''' 25m E2 (4c, 5b) Frank Cox, John Harrison, August 2006 The Stone Wall girdle traverse although stopping short by ﬁnishing at Garbh. The full traverse has yet to be climbed. 1 Climb Jug City to the break line and follow this to Western Pride and get a hanging belay. 2 Move out along the break with sustained moves to reach a rest by a “noisy” block. Follow the break to Garbh and ﬁnish up easily.

'''JUG CITY''' ** 17m VS 4c T. Ryan, S. Gallwey, July 1979. Abseil down the corner 10m south of the fence. Climb a short shallow groove and step right to a diagonal crack. Climb the crack steeply to a horizontal break and then up a short corner to the top.

'''CITY OF TINY LIGHTS''' 20m E2/3 5c F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. Follow Jug City to approximately half height then traverse right across the steep wall via the large hole and finish easily up the arête.

'''CONGER''' 10m HVS 5a T. Ryan, K. Murphy, M. Prendergast, 1/8/81. A serious and intimidating route which takes a steep crack (not visible from above) about 7m south of Jug City. Abseil down the cliff about 5m south of Jug City and swing right to a spike near the bottom of the crack about 5m above high tide mark. Belay on the spike and abseil rope. A bag is needed to keep the rope out of the water. The leader should abseil down on a separate rope. Climb the crack directly to a niche below a short overhanging section. Climb this (crux) to a large ledge and up to another ledge on the left. Finish up a short steep wall.

'''THE WEED''' 30m E4 5c T. Ryan, K. Murphy (1 rest point ) August 1984. G. Gibson (Free) 8/6/89. This takes a line on the wall left of the arête left of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a hanging belay at the left end of a crack which trends right towards the arête. Step up and traverse right on very rough rock along the crack to a shallow vertical crack. Climb this to a good ledge. Move right under a bulge and up until it is possible to step back left to a ledge above the bulge. Climb steeply up the wall above on good holds to a ledge. Finish up the short black wall.

'''THE EMIGRANT''' 30m E2 5b J. Colton, 21/8/77. Near the south end of Stone Wall is a fierce-looking overhanging corner which can only be seen from the top of 'Siren' a few metres further south. Abseil down to a large tidal ledge below the corner. Climb the wet overhanging groove and pull into a vertical groove which leads to a good ledge 7m below the top. Climb the corner crack at the back of the ledge to finish.

Variation: Climb directly to the top from the edge of the good ledge.

'''THE RACK''' ** 40m E5 6a K. Murphy, 19/3/84 (2 yoyos). E. Cooper (free), 1996. This climb takes a crack and groove which trend rightwards from the ledge at the bottom of The Emigrant. Abseil down to a tidal ledge and belay 3m right of The Emigrant. Climb straight up the crack and follow it rightwards to a ledge (poor rest). Move straight up to a horizontal break and follow this rightwards to rejoin the crack at the base of a groove (crux). Follow the groove and cracks to the top.

'''SHIP OF FOOLS''' ** 30m E4 6a E. Cooper, S McCrory, Spring 1987. The arête between Siren and The Rack gives a good climb with an exhilarating finish. Belay on the abseil rope, left of the arête at a long sloping foot-ledge. Climb the arête, good runners on the right, take the wall just left of the arête to a horizontal break from which committing moves lead you to the top or bottom.

Alternative start E6 6b K. Murphy, J. Adams, 27/5/90 (practised on top rope). Start from the sloping shelf at sea level on the right-hand side of the arête. Move left around the arête from the end of the shelf to the base of the short groove. Climb this and move right (crux) from its end along the traverse line to the arête. A move up the groove on the arête gets you to Ship of Fools and a runner.

'''SIREN''' ** 20m E3 5c K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 18/3/84. From the black gloom of the belay this route ascends a superb and committing wall. Abseil down to a ledge left of Venusian Spray. Belay on the left of the ledge at the foot of the ramp. Climb the short ramp to a sloping ledge. Move up left and gain a small ledge on the wall (crux). Step right and climb the wall directly to the top.

'''SONG TO THE SIREN''' ** 21m E3 6a F. Richards, J. Thompson, August 1995. (practised on a top-rope) This wall-climb starts as for Siren and takes a line directly up to its right. Follow Siren to halfway up the ramp. Make thin moves up the face (crux) to an obvious small flake and easier climbing. Finish up the (higher) block right of Siren.

'''Heart Full of Arrows'''*** 20m E5 6a Diarmuid Duggan, Peter Owens, June 2006 (practised on top rope) Climb ramp as for Siren for 2m to below shallow corner. Move up boldly using a series of sidepulls to horizontal break and a peg. Traverse right along the horizontal break (often damp) for 4m onto a good hold (peg). From here, pull straight up the wall on small edges to gain sloping ramp. Follow wide crack to ﬁnish.

'''Robot Unicorn Attack''' E5 6a
Conor McGovern 12th August 2017
Follow Heart Full of Arrows to the first peg and climb directly up the wall on small positive holds.

==An Falla Uaigneach==

An Falla Uaigneach is the impressive inset cliff south of Stone Wall. The junction between the two cliffs is marked by a wide crack.

'''VENUSIAN SPRAY''' 30m HVS 5a J. Colton, D. Somers, 20/8/77. On the first ascent this climb was graded VS(4b). Strong climbers have often failed on the initial hard moves and the route is now rarely climbed. It takes the unpleasant-looking deep corner at the north end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to the ledges left of the corner. Climb just left of the corner chimney to good holds, traverse right into the corner and up this to the top.

'''The Happiness that Hurts'''** 50m E7 5c,6c Ricky Bell, Diarmuid Duggan, June 2006 This mother of all traverses gives us the ﬁnest of Burren experiences. The ﬁ rst pitch is a brilliant E1 in its own right and could be continued to ﬁnish as for Space Monkeys. Abseil onto the big ledge as for Venusian Spray. 1 20m Walk along the ledge until it is possible to climb slightly up Venusian Spray to gain the tramline break. Traverse right on jugs and belay in the corner. 2 30m Step down and traverse the break to a hard move before a peg. From here, the foot holds run out and the pump begins. Gain arête and ﬁnish as for Black Widow;

'''SPACE MONKEYS 2 - THE SEQUEL''' E1 5b S. McEvoy, D. O Sullivan, 12/6/94. A spectacular route in superb surroundings and considerably easier than the pre-storm first episode. Belay at the left end of An Falla Uaigneach at the base of a corner below an overhang. Climb the corner to the overhang, traverse right to the end of this and then directly up.

'''BLACK WIDOW''' * 25m HVS 5b T. Ryan, S. Windrim, K. Higgs, 21/8/77. The route takes a series of leftward-trending ramps near the northern (left) end of An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down to a good ledge at the bottom of the ramps. Climb the first ramp to a small ledge. Make a delicate move up the second ramp (crux) to another ledge. Ascend the third ramp to a ledge below a bulge. Step left and climb on large holds to the top.

'''FOREVER YOUNG''' E7 6c Ben Bransby, Andy Long August 2004 Named in memory of Will Perrin
From a hanging belay, above high tide line, at the base of a small R facing corner (good cam 2?). Move L out of the corner and make technical moves (good RPs) until final bold moves lead to a good break. Launch up the wall above on good but spaced crimps to the final horizontal break. Move very slightly L to climb up the twin grooves above (crux) and the top.

A lower start would be possible starting in the base of the large corners to the L of the route, although this would be very tidal and probably a little harder.

The route was climbed after abseil inspection - moves were practiced.

'''AILLEADOIR''' ** 25m E5 6b D. O Sullivan C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87. An excellent route. Start as for Seabird, belayed on small wires and abseil rope. The judicious use of slings in the initial section will reduce rope drag. Follow Seabird to the top of the corner below the huge overhang. From here traverse left for 7m along a juggy break to the overhang's end. The sequency crux moves up and left get you to a reasonable hold immediately above a peg. Continue up to a huge flat hold and finish easily direct to the campsite for a cup of tea.

'''SEA BIRD''' ** 25m E2 5b M. Smith, M. Manson, T. Ryan, 22/5/81. Fine spectacular climbing in a serious situation. In the middle of An Falla Uaigneach there is a prominent overhang, best viewed from the arête left of Venusian Spray. Abseil down to a small stance under the overhang (not tidal but the first section is usually a little damp). Belay on small nuts and the abseil rope. Step right from the belay and climb a delicate wall to an overhang. Climb a corner on the left (crux) to the main overhang. Traverse right and up into a niche. Easier climbing to the top.

'''GALLIPOLI''' ** 35m E3 6a D. O Sullivan, C. O Cofaigh, 15/8/87.

*[Recent wave activity has changed this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] Takes a line up the wall right of Seabird. Start as for Seabird. Climb up a few metres to the bottom of a left-facing corner/groove. Move out right until below an obvious undercut. Move up to gain the undercut (2.5 Friend) and climb the wall above for a few metres. Traverse right to gain a bottomless corner. Bridge up this in spectacular position and finish more easily to the top.

'''THIN ICE''' ** 30m E3 6a T. Ryan, K. Murphy, 10/6/83. The crux offers highly unusual but superb climbing. There is a shallow black corner right of Sea Bird which can only be seen from the arête left of Venusian Spray. The corner ends at a pair of horizontal cracks at about half height. Abseil down to a small ledge at the base of the corner, good nut belay. Climb the corner (crux) to a small ledge at the horizontal cracks. Traverse about 7m left and climb up on good holds until it is possible to trend right to less steep rock. Continue to the top. A good selection of small wires is needed to protect the crux.

Direct Finish E3 6a E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. Move only 2m left at the top of the corner and follow holds through the bulge to easier ground.

'''RISING TIDE''' ** 30m E3 5c E. Cooper, S. McCrory, 8/5/88. An exposed wall climb with good protection where it is needed. Belay as for The Cold War. Move left with difficulty and up past a ledge to an obvious traverse line. Follow this until it is possible to move up and gain a standing position on a flat-topped spike/flake. Step right and up (peg runner) and finish directly up.

'''THE COLD WAR''' ** 30m E3 5c E. Cooper, S. McCrory, A. Moles, 10/6/88 .

*[A massive block has fallen from this route. It is now more difficult and has yet to be reclimbed.] An enjoyable route taking the bulging wall between Thin Ice and Reprieve . Take a hanging belay at a flake in the horizontal break. Move right and make difficult moves onto a slab which is followed easily to a ledge. Traverse left until dramatic but reasonable climbing leads to the top.

'''THE VEIN''' E7 6c Andy Long, Ben Bransby 04/08/04 Belay as for Reprieve.Traverse out left along obvious break/ramp. Sort gear then up crack for a way (crucial rp2 -always wanted to say that!!). Hard moves get you to the 1st break and some good gear. Push on up past more breaks with a nice move on the slab to finish.

'''REPRIEVE''' 40m E2 5c K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 29/4/84 The route takes a corner below large overhangs halfway between Thin Ice and the deep chimney on An Falla Uaigneach. Abseil down and belay on a foothold at the base of the corner 5m above high tide level. Climb the corner (crux) to a ledge below another corner. Step right around an arête to a slab. Climb delicately up this (poorly protected), moving back left under the overhang to the top of the corner. Traverse left under the overhang until it is possible to climb steeply over it and trend right to the top.

'''THE WOUND THAT NEVER HEALS''' HVS 5a Pat Nolan, Andy Long, August 2004 The apparently unclimbed wide crack in the corner at the right end of An Falla Uigneach. Despite its appearance this route gives excellent bridging and wide jamming. Camalots 4 and 5 protect. Abseil to a small platform at low tide. add comment

==Boulder Wall==

So called because of the small boulder on the top close to the edge of the cliff. Below the boulder is a white slab with a convenient ledge at its base. The south end of Boulder Wall is bounded by black, north-facing chimneys.

'''SPLASH DOWN''' ** 15m E1 5b T. Ryan, M. Manson, M. Prendergast, 19/4/81. Serious climbing in a fine situation. This route takes the first arête left of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down from near the boulder. Take a hanging belay (small nuts) on sloping footholds half way down a black slab left of the arête. A rucksack is needed to keep the rope out of the water. Step up from the belay and move to the left side of the slab. Trend right to a small ledge on the arête. Climb the arête (minute spike runner) and over an overlap to a steep crack. Up this to the top.

Direct Start E. Cooper, S. McCrory, Spring 1987. The arête can be climbed in its entirety by starting from an obvious foothold on the right side of the arête just below the level of the belay.

'''BARRACUDA'''** 20m E4 6a This route takes the black corner immediately above belay for Splash Down. Climb easily up the corner to overhang and arrange small wires and friends. Step left around overhang. Hard moves lead up to horizontal break. Finish up the arête as for Splash Down.

'''DOOLIN ROUGE''' *** 26m E1 5a P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/79. A fine climb although protection is a bit sparse. Takes the left arête of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Abseil down to the left end of the long narrow ledge at the base of the slab. Belay on the abseil rope. Climb a very faint groove for 4m. then traverse left to the arête. Climb this to a ledge and trend right up a slab to the top.

'''CALANUS''' * 20m E1 5b T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey, 8/5/82. This route takes a line up the centre of the white slab between Doolin Rouge and a wide crack on the right (Great Balls Of Fire). Belay on the abseil rope near the left end of the ledge at the base of the slab and just right of the start of Doolin Rouge. Trend rightwards up the slab to ledges. Pass a small overhang above on the left and gain a pair of horizontal cracks below a vertical crack (the final section of Great Balls of Fire). Traverse left for 3m and climb the steep slab above to the top (crux, poor protection).

'''CREPUSCULAR RAY''' 20m E2/3 5c J. Hawkins, F. Desmond, E. Fitzgerald, 31/3/96, (practised on top-rope). This route takes the slab 2m left of Great Balls of Fire. Climb the slab to a mantelshelf at 6m (crack on Great Balls of Fire used for protection) Move left and gain the small ledge 2m above (pre-placed peg, since removed). Move up and right under the bulge. Difficult climbing to reach horizontal breaks. Continue up the bulging wall to the top.

'''GREAT BALLS OF FIRE''' *** 26m HVS 5a B. Walker, M. Boushell, June 1977. An excellent route with varied climbing. Start at the foot of a conspicuous crack near the right side of the white slab on Boulder Wall. Belay on the long ledge at the base of the slab. Climb the crack to a small overhang. Trend up leftwards and traverse delicately left using two horizontal cracks. Climb a good crack more easily to the top.

Alternative Finish E1 5b K. Murphy, T. Ryan, 28/3/84. At the overhang step right and gain a ledge up to the right. Step left from this and up steeply to the top.

'''WHITE SCIENCE''' 26m E2/3 C.RYAN, C.SHANNON, JUNE 2014 Headpoint, Climb New Black Magic to the last horizontal break. Move left and up on good undercuts.

'''NEW BLACK MAGIC''' 26m E2 5a T. Irving, P. Wynne, 3/7/77. Re climbed after storm damage. As of July 2014: Start significantly changed, *'s removed. Grade changed? New description: Abseil from the boulder to the start of a blank left facing groove. Delicately climb the bold corner with the use of holds on the right to a horizontal break (and gear). Move up and right to another break. From here move right to a finger crack and finish.

'''WHITE WITCH''' *** 26m E4/5 6a/b E. Cooper, A. Moles, 10/6/88. A varied and committing pitch with an air of seriousness, the grade depends on the climber's reach. From the right-hand end of the Great Balls Of Fire ledge climb delicately up to a good hold. From this make a committing move right into a second groove which leads to a roof (many dubious RP's and a peg). A long reach almost gains the hold above the roof which allows the wall to be climbed. Keeping just right of the arête continue to a slabby wall which is climbed delicately to the top.

'''SALT ROPE''' ** 26m E4 6a Original Route E2(5c) - T. Irving, P. Wynne, (1 aid point) 3/7/77 K. Murphy (free) 1981. Reclimbed following rockfall - M. Daly, 1995. Superb steep climbing. The route takes a thin crack line just left of the white groove of Glanced At A Snatch. Abseil down to belay on a small tidal ledge at the base of the groove. Climb the wall to gain the crack and follow this with increasing difficulty to a horizontal crack. Finish up the wall above.

'''GLANCED AT A SNATCH''' 26m E5 6a H. Hebblethwaite, Jams O Donnell, August 1991. The best protection you can get on this little gripper is a scuba team and a rubber dinghy in the sea below. Belay as for Salt Rope but opt for the groove on your right. A few RP's below the overlap some metres up help you get into a stance above. Put these out of your mind and make the crux moves to a large break at the top of the corner. A hidden hold helps when you move up. Continue easily and gratefully to the top.

'''STRING OF BALLS''' *** 70m E2 5b,5b G. Jewson, P. Blackburn, Easter 1979. A superb serious route taking the obvious horizontal cracks that cross Boulder Wall at about two-thirds height. Protection is poor and both leader and second should be very competent. Start at the large ledge at the top of Foot Loose. (1) Follow the crack left to an arête where an awkward step around can be made to the corner of Salt Rope. Continue left and up to a ledge. Step down a steep corner and belay below the overhang on Great Balls of Fire. (2) Step up left and continue leftwards to the final crack of Great Balls of Fire. Step down and traverse to the ledge of Doolin Rouge at an arête. Step around below an overhang and up onto a hanging slab. Step left across this and move to a final yellow corner. Climb this easily to the top.

'''SAMHRADH, SAMHRADH''' * 18m VS 4c P. Daly, Damien O'Sullivan, 27/7/2011. Abseil to tidal ledge below and to the left of Foot Loose. Climb first groove left of Foot Loose for 3 m. Swing around the rib on the left using a triangular hold (crux). Follow the groove pleasantly to the top. Well protected.

Direct Start VS 4c P. Daly, R. Keane, P. Conran. 17/05/2012, Takes the next groove to the left. Pleasant layaways lead directly to the finishing groove.

'''FOOT LOOSE''' * 15m E4 6b E. Cooper, 20/5/88. A short but technically demanding climb which takes the smooth black corner immediately left of Aria. This is followed with difficulty to good holds where it is possible to rest and place a runner on the right arête. A committing series of moves up the corner leads to easier ground which is followed to the top.

'''ARIA''' 15m E2/3 5c E. Cooper, T. Cooper, September 1984. This is the arête right of Foot Loose. Abseil down to ledges as for Foot Loose. Step right onto the arête and climb it with a move onto the left side just below the top.

'''HIPHOP''' * 15m E3 5c C. Torrans, M. Daly, September 1995. This route takes the wall right of Aria. Start as for that route but continue past the arête to the middle of the wall. Follow thin cracks and pockets to the top.

'''STEVO''' 20m VS 4c M. Daly, C. Torrans, September 1995. Climb the black wall left of Two Hand Reel.

'''TWO HAND REEL''' 20m VS 4c P. Blackburn, G. Jewson, 16/4/77. This line takes a black wall between the black ledge from which Foot Loose starts and the deep chimneys further right. Abseil down to a sloping ledge and belay at its left end. Climb the crack and step left at an overhang. Finish directly up the wall avoiding an easier crack on the right.

Right of the black chimneys the cliff faces west again and is much lower. There are four short routes on the slab just right of the black chimneys, their starts are reached by abseil.

'''SEASICKNESS''' 12m S 3c J. Hastings, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. Belay at the crack at the back of a ledge near the left end of the slab. Climb up onto the slab on sharp honeycombed rock. At 3m traverse left to the left edge of the slab where it overhangs the sea. Climb the left edge to the top.

'''BRIDGE OVER TROUBLED WATERS''' 12m S 4c P. Sloane, J. Leonard, B. Walker, 3/7/77. Right of Seasickness there are three very shallow grooves. This route takes the first groove 3m to the right. Climb a broken crack to the smooth slab. Climb the groove above to the top.

'''BLACK POPCORN''' 10m VD J. Leonard, P. O Connor, 3/7/77. Start from a stance just above the high tide level at the right-hand side of the slab. Climb an obvious crack to the top.

'''SLIM PICKENS''' 9m VS 4b I. Rea, C. Torrans, September 1984. On the flat area south of Black Popcorn there are many numbers painted on the rock. About 10m south of No. 21 is a fine, if short, right-angled corner. Abseil in at low tide and climb the crack on perfect jams.

'''Lazy day -''' 10m VD It starts in the left of build-in ladder. Perfect route for beginners who want to improve their abilities in leading and placing gear Gear used : micro nuts jammed into thin cracks[[File:LazyDay.jpg|RTENOTITLE|link=Special:FilePath/LazyDay.jpg]]

==DWS Routes==

[[File:Jules.jpg|800px|Julian Lines climbing at Ailladie|link=Special:FilePath/Jules.jpg]]

''The routes are generally safe and most can be climbed at any tide. Most of the routes on An Falla Uaigneach ease with height, with the the top 10m being about Fr 3. However, a fall from here could still hurt, and so they have been given S1. Hanging a rope ladder on an anchor, so that if you fall in, you can pull out and try again or climb back up the rope, is probably the best way to approach the routes on An Falla Uaignech, as the nearest exit is Durk Wall (a fair swim away). I've made a rope ladder so get in touch if you're interested. Colm.''

'''An Falla Uaigneach'''

'''The Adventures of the Wonderwagon ** 25m F7b+/7c (S1/2)''' Ab down to the second lowest ledge on Black Widow. Swing down left to gain a traverse line, and follow this to the base of a shallow grove. Follow the grove to the roof, and swing back right to finish up the end of Black Widow. 

''Best done at high tide with a particularly calm sea. Hanging a rope ladder off the lowest ledge on Black Widow provides the most convienent escape. '' FA C. Shannon 10/06/16

 '''The Jelly Situation *** 28m F7c+/8a (S1)''' The big line on the wall. Start from the Seabird belay. Traverse left, staying low initially, before moving up to an obvious jug on the wall. From there, move left to a leftwards facing jug, and then up, where a hard move gains you the overlap. Step left, and then sequence up through the overlap and pumpy headwall.

''This has hard climbing at height. Best done at high tide as a result, and I'd also recomment having someone on the Seabird ledge ready to act as lift guard. Hanging a rope ladder from the Seabird belay provides the most convienent escape. . '' FA C. Shannon 12/06/16

'''Topo:'''

[[File:DWS Topo Upload.jpg|800px|DWS Topo|link=Special:FilePath/DWS_Topo_Upload.jpg]]

'''Abseil Points:''' [[File:Abseils.jpg|800px|Abseil Points|link=Special:FilePath/Abseils.jpg]]

'''Routes Gained from the Right Abseil:''' ''Just above the high tide mark is a foot ledge and a slot above that takes a Friend 2 or 2.5, from which you can hang a rope ladder.''

'''Identity Crisis '''*** 27m Fr 7c+ (S1) 10m right of ‘Sea Bird’ there is a big blocky ledge around half height. 5m Right of this blocky ledge is a blank wall which is slightly overhanging for the first half. Abseil down to a jug about 3m above the high tide mark. Climb up and slightly right on a juggy ramp to a tricky section on small side-pulls and an undercut to gain a pocket on the lip of the bulge. A few more tricky moves to gain the rightward trending crack lead to a long reach out left to good holds and easier ground about at about 2/3’s of the height of the wall.

FA S. Moore 24/07/08

'''King Crozzle '''*** 20m F7b+ (S1) Brilliant, probably the best climb on the wall, and the best climb of its type and standard anywhere. From the foot hold, step right and move up onto the thin and absorbing blunt rib, the tenuous climbing revolves around a crucial flat edge. Continue to better holds where it joins crozzly show, which comes in from the right.

FA J.Lines 05/07/10

'''Skin deep''' *** 20m F7c/7c+ (S1) Traverse right to gain a good, flat hold in a right facing groove, climb the groove to the roof, and make difficult moves through this to gain a sequence of finger slots that lead to the break of the crozzly show. Now reach directly up for some finger dimples above, step in the break and snatch for a superb finger jug, using this, pedal for the finishing jug-ledge.

FA J.Lines 09/07/10

'''The Crozzle Monster''' *** 25m F7c+ (S1) A sustained and technical face climb. Start as for Skin Deep. From the good hold in the groove, move right on small edges for 2/3 meters before questing upwards to gain two good opposing side pulls. From here, delicate moves thin holds gains or an all out lunge (crux) gain you the break. Step right and finish as for Bing Crozzly.

''Possible to step left at the crux and take a hold from Skin Deep to gain the break at 7c.''

FA C.Shannon 07/09/12

 '''Routes gained from the Middle Abseil:''' ''To the right of the crozzly wall and left of Reprieve is a large square rock fall scar. Abseil down to a sloping ramp at the base of this feature. The routes take the break moving left from here.''

'''The Crozzly Show '''*** 35m Fr 7b (S1) Traverse the break left on good holds and big footholds at first. Continue left along a crimpy seam and past a novelty mono in the middle of the black wall. Towards the left end of the black wall a tricky move up leads to big holds and easy ground to the top.

FA R. Bell 24/07/08

[[File:Ricky Bell on Bing Crozzly Fr7b+7c.jpg|400px|Ricky Bell on the First Ascent of Bing Crozzly|link=Special:FilePath/Ricky_Bell_on_Bing_Crozzly_Fr7b+7c.jpg]]

'''Bing Crozzly '''*** 30m Fr 7b+/c (S1) Follow ‘The Crozzly Show’ onto the black wall then up the obvious flakey crack above. A few moves straight up after the crack leads to easy ground.

FA R. Bell 24/07/08

'''Routes gained from the Left Abseil:''' ''Throw a rope down the obvious corner. Abseil down to the large sloping ledge at the base of the 'Reprieve' corner.''

'''The Vein '''***  20m  F7a+ (S1/2) Move out left along the traverse to gain the thin crack in the right side of the hanging prow, climb this with difficulty, followed by further technical moves to gain a ledge. Easier to the top.

FSA R. Bell 08

''The next route starts on a grey hanging slab at a crescent shaped hold down and to the right of the ledge of reprieve. ''

'''Deep water horizon''' ** 25m F7b+ (S2/3) Traverse right under the overhangs for 4m to gain some good flake holds in the blank wall. Step up and using a thin, black, snaking crack on the left make some hard (reachy) moves to better holds. Move up and right to a rest in the base of a groove. Make a hard pull right onto the hanging slab in an exposed position, once established take a deep breath and climb diagonally left to the top (steady but getting high).

FA J.Lines 28/06/10

''The wall ends at the huge corner of the wound that never heals. To the right is a section of cliff with a huge ledge at half height. A number of safe DWS can be done here to the ledge, as long as a rope is put in place to climb out. Or can be continued up the arête of splash down (6a S2/3).''
'''Further Routes:'''

'''Ice breaker''' 10m F6a (S0) Tape harness down to a foothold above HWM about 1m right of the arête. Step left onto the arête and climb it in a good position, easing all the way to the ledge.

FA J.Lines 25/06/10

'''Two tone''' 10m F5+ (S0) The wall to the right of the arête, using holds on both the black and grey rock.

FA J.Lines 29/06/10

 ''The next three routes are started from the square cut ledge of Doolin Rouge, but the first two can finish off at the half height ledge described above or continue to the top. The top is almost exactly 60ft on a high tide (slightly less on big springs) hence the presence of an S3 grade, although the water is very deep here.''

'''Splash down'''* 10m/20m F6a+ S0 (S2/3) This is a nicely positioned climb if a little sharp. From the ledge, drop down and finger traverse into the corner, move left onto the arête and climb it to a possible exit to the half-height ledge (S0). Or continue up the arête in a great position; long reaches between good holds.

FA J.Lines 30/06/10

'''Barracuda'''* 10m/20m F6c / F7a S0 (S2/3) Climb as for Splash down into the corner, but then climb the corner to the horizontal break (exit here at S0 onto the ledge). Or continue through the overlap to a hard move up the right wall of the groove to gain the next break, and then step left and continue as for splash down. FA J.Lines 29/06/10

'''Doolin bleus''' * 20m F6b (S2/3) Start off the Doolin Rouge ledge, but immediately step left and use hidden incuts to climb the rib directly up to a ledge at 14m. Now ease your way up and left following a tight groove in an airy situation to reach the top of Splash down.

FA J.Lines 30/06/10

[[File:Normal New Routes.JPG|The Hobos and Durk Wall|link=Special:FilePath/Normal_New_Routes.JPG]]

'''Past Boulder Wall:'''

'''The Littlest Hobo'''*** E7 6c (S1/2) The sharp overhanging arete soute of boulder wall. The first ascentionist remarked 'Totally surreal climbing only for those with an imagination'. Start down and left of the arete. Turn the arete below the overhang and body bridge your way up to a good rest below a roof up and right. Sequence out to the arete.

FA R. Bell

'''The Power of the Hobo'''*** E7 6c (S1/2) A powerful line in an awesome situation which is best sent at high tide. Follow The Littlest Hobo out to a good stance below the roof. Pull up and left and force your way diagonally up right to airy moves onto the arete.

FA R. Bell 13/7/06

'''Anniversary''' *** 10m Fr 7c (S0) Right of two little E7 routes 'the hobos' at the right end of Ailladie is another hanging fin/undercut roof. Climb down the slab on the sea front west face. Traverse around the blind corner to the left via an obvious finger lock. Traverse under the roof to the left via some big moves on good spaced holds to reach an obvious square block jug. Make a series of desperate moves (following obvious diagonal undercut) involving very small crimps and slopey sidepulls to reach the huge juggy foothold on the left arete. Continue up arete with ease.

FA S. Moore 22/07/08

[[File:Anniversery.jpg|400px|Anniversary|link=Special:FilePath/Anniversery.jpg]]

'''Durk Wall''' [[File:Normal new routes durk wall.JPG|Durk Wall|link=Special:FilePath/Normal_new_routes_durk_wall.JPG]]

The next routes are climbed on the small wall at the south end of the crag. They can be accessed by scrambling down the south end of the wall and traversing in, or from the other side(bit trickier). Can be climbed at any tide, but it can be harder to get out at low tide.

'''Durk Dinger''' Fr 6b (S0) Ricky Bell

'''Durka Durka''' Fr 5a (S0) Craig Hiller

'''Durka Kong''' Fr 5a (S0) Paul Swail

'''Durk Jelly''' Fr 5b (S0) Paul Swail