Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Slieve Rua

2024-09-25T14:53:58Z

Ciara.wall: Added Cat Wall climb

This hill North of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle.

[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]

===Lower Buttress===
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]

Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.

'''SELF ISOLATION''' D ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack on the far left.

'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.'' Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.

'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''' '''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.

'''TIRIG''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''''' '''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds.

'''COVID CRACK''' VD''' '''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.'''

'''C19-REUNION''' VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.

[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]

'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.'' This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.

[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''' '''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.

'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'' Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.

'''CANADA CRACK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.

'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).'' 4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.

'''LOCKED IN''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.'' Wide crack 2m to the right of MANDATORY QUARANTINE.

'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021. ''Climb the crack 1m right of LOCKED IN to ledge, finish up crack to the left.

'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''

Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.

'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' Between Hazel's Maze and Ivy League climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.

[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]

'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD

''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''

Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.

'''FACE OFF''' VD

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''

'''MAIRE RUA''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.'' Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.

'''EVENING LIGHT''' D ''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.'' Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.

'''THE LOWLANDS''' S ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'' Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''

3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish.

'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.

2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top.

'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c

''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.''

Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start.

[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]]

'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS

''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds.

'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner.

'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D

''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.''

Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up.

'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D ''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.'' 1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top.

==Upper Buttress==
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the pocketed slab left of Trust the fairies.

'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line.

[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]

'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.

'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Takes the crack line in the middle.

'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021. ''Climb the cracked wall between Fairy Flakes and Airy Fairy.

'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.

'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges.

'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.'''

'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S

''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right.
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]]

'''SUSAN''' HS

''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.

'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b

''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024''

Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.

'''CAT CALL''' HS ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.

'''CAT SCRAPES''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''

Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.

'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S ''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m VD ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.'' 4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.

'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS

''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''

Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''

Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.

'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' Climb the inverted V right of the bay.

'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S ''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' 2m to the right of BQC climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.

'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S ''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''

Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D ''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''

''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''

A few metres to the right of The Great Floor Food Adventure, there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.

'''PATRICK''' 10m S

''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''

Climb the rib immediately right of CS.

'''HAMLET''' 10m D ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.'' Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of Cracked Actor.

Fanore

2024-09-25T14:41:55Z

Ciara.wall: /* Introduction */ added a climb

===Introduction===
A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 10m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately there are a few parking spots at the national school, walk up the small dirt road parallel to the coast road for 150m (past houses on the left) and cut up through the fields.
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]
 
[[File:Fanore.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.[[File:Ice cream parlour.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px]]

'''ICEBURGER *''' (1) 14m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

'''CHOCK A LOT *''' (2) 14m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

'''SPRINKLES''' (3) 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start just left of '''CHOCK''' and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

'''I SCREAM''' (4) 10m VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start 5m left of '''SPRINKLES''' at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

'''COHEN''' (5) 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.
[[File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg|left|thumb|600x600px|Calling Dawn]]

'''CALLING DAWN''' 12m Diff

''Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24''

Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.

[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.''

Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.

'''RODEO DRIVE''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.

'''PET SOUNDS''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.

100m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.
[[File:Fanore main crag Ap 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''SLACK TIDE''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

'''COME TO THE COAST''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.

'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

'''BAYWATCH''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

'''THE HOFF''' 10m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.

'''WALRUS''' 10m VD

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.
[[File:Liner.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CRUISE LINER''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.

The next climbing area of interest is about 400m further Right/South.
[[File:HE.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]'''HIGHER EDUCATION''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, unseconded 19th July 2024.''

Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.

File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg

2024-09-25T14:37:27Z

Ciara.wall:

Calling Dawn