Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Killary Crags

2025-11-04T18:44:05Z

Carlos:

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, with a delicate unprotected lower section. Left of West Wing is a clean brown south facing slab. Start on the left arete of the slab, climb up arete and delicate slab passing shallow cracks to an easier finish on the upper cracks.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox ''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon, 2011'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish as for Mind your own business.

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straight up the short crack. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m V Diff (old school) 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached, leading to the upper ledges. No Protection.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep / overhang start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches upper part / top of wall, ascend obvious open crack on right wall to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS / HVS 4c/5a ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b

Carl Maddox, 2008. 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks. (2 x micro wires placed in upper crack on abseil prior to ascent, hard to find / place on lead).

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m HVS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse from left to right towards arete, follow left side of arete and grooves, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start, and protection hard to see, requiring micro wires, offsets and micro cams to protect.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height, well protected and slightly high in the grade.

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING''' '''Some good bouldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m Severe 4a 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge (crux) and follow water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket to save your bacon.

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c/5a 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m E1 5c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making some tricky, delicate balance moves trending up to gain to upper slab. Small / micro wires / cams protect the crux. (shockingly under graded for many years).

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2/E3 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr. Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)

'''3. Wanderley Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

A really good climb up the slab and hanging corner, exit upper overhang trending left ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5a. Gabhar''' 12m VS 4b

Carl Maddox, 2010

Thin crack line 3 meters left of the Fly, climb faint crack until it disappears along with protection, delicate climbing to meet the fly finish.

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a

A nice climb up thin cracks and into the upper blocks long traverse left to the belay ledges. ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a

A delicate climb with spaced protection after mid-way ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m HVS 5a ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse (Chimney squeeze)''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. 

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

''Carl Maddox 2009.''

Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. (Small wires and cams). 

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Excellent climbing with a steep start. ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff

Super long slab climbing with a tricky start ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

1st led clean 2023

Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

The corner on the left can be climbed at a similar grade to meet the upper arete.

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

Excellent climbing with a steep, bouldering style start to gain the groove ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Superb climbing, start up the hand size crack to where it runs out, make a committing, albeit well protected move left to gain a sloping ledge (crux) and finish up the stepped corner, small wires and cams to protect upper section. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

Excellent climb up obvious corner crack at the far right of the crag / upper wall ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Killary Crags

2025-11-04T09:30:03Z

Carlos: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, with a delicate unprotected lower section. Left of West Wing is a clean brown south facing slab. Start on the left arete of the slab, climb up arete and delicate slab passing shallow cracks to an easier finish on the upper cracks.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox ''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon, 2011'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish as for Mind your own business.

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straight up the short crack. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m V Diff (old school) 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached, leading to the upper ledges. No Protection.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep / overhang start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches upper part / top of wall, ascend obvious open crack on right wall to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS / HVS 4c/5a ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b

Carl Maddox, 2008. 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks. (2 x micro wires placed in upper crack on abseil prior to ascent, hard to find / place on lead).

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m HVS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse from left to right towards arete, follow left side of arete and grooves, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start, and protection hard to see, requiring micro wires, offsets and micro cams to protect.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height, well protected and slightly high in the grade.

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING''' '''Some good bouldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m Severe 4a 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge (crux) and follow water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket to save your bacon.

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c/5a 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m E1 5c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making some tricky, delicate balance moves trending up to gain to upper slab. Small / micro wires / cams protect the crux. (shockingly under graded for many years).

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2/E3 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr. Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)

'''3. Wanderley Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

A really good climb up the slab and hanging corner, exit upper overhang trending left ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a

A nice climb up thin cracks and into the upper blocks long traverse left to the belay ledges. ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m HVS 5a ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse (Chimney squeeze)''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. 

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

''Carl Maddox 2009.''

Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. (Small wires and cams). 

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Excellent climbing with a steep start. ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

The corner on the left can be climbed at a similar grade to meet the upper arete.

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

Excellent climbing with a steep, bouldering style start to gain the groove ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Superb climbing, start up the hand size crack to where it runs out, make a committing, albeit well protected move left to gain a sloping ledge (crux) and finish up the stepped corner, small wires and cams to protect upper section. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

Excellent climb up obvious corner crack at the far right of the crag / upper wall ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Killary Crags

2025-10-30T13:57:37Z

Carlos:

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks and easier climbing to finish.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox ''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon,'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straight up the short crack. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep / overhang start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches upper part / top of wall, ascend obvious open crack on right wall to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS / HVS 4c/5a ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks.

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m HVS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse from left to right towards arete, follow left side of arete and grooves, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start, and protection hard to see, requiring micro wires, offsets and micro cams to protect.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height, well protected and slightly high in the grade.

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING''' '''Some good bouldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m Severe 4a 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge (crux) and follow water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket to save your bacon.

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c/5a 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m E1 5c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making some tricky, delicate balance moves trending up to gain to upper slab. Small / micro wires / cams protect the crux. (shockingly under graded for many years).

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2/E3 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr. Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

A really good climb up the slab and hanging corner, exit upper overhang trending left ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a

A nice climb up thin cracks and into the upper blocks long traverse left to the belay ledges. ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m HVS 5a ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse (Chimney squeeze)''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. ''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Excellent climbing with a steep start. ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

The corner on the left can be climbed at a similar grade to meet the upper arete.

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

Excellent climbing with a steep, bouldering style start to gain the groove ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Superb climbing, start up the hand size crack to where it runs out, make a committing, albeit well protected move left to gain a sloping ledge (crux) and finish up the stepped corner, small wires and cams to protect upper section. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

Excellent climb up obvious corner crack at the far right of the crag / upper wall ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Killary Crags

2025-10-30T13:12:47Z

Carlos:

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks and easier climbing to finish.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox ''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon,'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straight up the short crack. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep / overhang start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches upper part / top of wall, ascend obvious open crack on right wall to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS / HVS 4c/5a ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks.

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m HVS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse from left to right towards arete, follow left side of arete and grooves, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start, and protection hard to see, requiring micro wires, offsets and micro cams to protect.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height, well protected and slightly high in the grade.

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING''' '''Some good bouldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m Severe 4a 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge (crux) and follow water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket to save your bacon.

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c/5a 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m E1 5c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making some tricky, delicate balance moves trending up to gain to upper slab. Small / micro wires / cams protect the crux. (shockingly under graded for many years).

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2/E3 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr. Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m HVS 5a ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse (Chimney squeeze)''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. ''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Excellent climbing with a steep start. ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

Excellent climbing with a steep, bouldering style start to gain the groove ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Superb climbing, start up the hand size crack to where it runs out, make a committing, albeit well protected move left to gain a sloping ledge (crux) and finish up the stepped corner, small wires and cams to protect upper section. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

Excellent climb up obvious corner crack at the far right of the crag / upper wall ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Killary Crags

2025-10-30T13:05:05Z

Carlos: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

==Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)==

[[Image:KillaryH1.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:KillaryUpper.jpg|800px]]

'''Location:'''
This crag is situated approx. 2km West of Bundorragha Pier
on the northern shore of Killary harbor, Co. Mayo.
Parking at Pier, or in lay-by at the end of small road 0.5 km beyond Bundurragha
Grid Ref: L822632 Walk In 25 mins

'''Character:'''
A small crag of generally clean, fast drying, volcanic tuff, routes on the upper crag range from 6-16 meters. The climbs once cleaned are generally solid, though the occasional hold can be brittle on less popular routes.
Protection varies but majority of routes are well protected. A range of cams and off-set wires are handy, some of the harder walls follow pockets where tri-cams may prove useful

A few harder routes have been included which are either projects or climbed with protection already in place. These offer good potential for training, or onsight ascents for stronger climbers. Any route not led ground up has been given a technical grade only.

Climbs described left to right

Two sections of slabby rock/ walls mark the far left end of the upper crag, the first route takes the faint left trending crack line in the right slabby wall

'''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a 
''Clement Quinn 2011'' 
A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
Start at left arete of slab, climb straight delicate slab passing shallow cracks and easier climbing to finish.

'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox ''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon,'' 
Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.

'''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff 
''Peter Cody, Lena Doherty Nov.2009'' 
Start just left of 'First Lady' at leftwards slanting ledges. Follow ledges left to to step into triangular niche (short crux), from niche follow crack to top. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1. First Lady''' 10m V.Diff 
''Lena Doherty, Peter Cody Nov. 2009'' 
Follow easy slabs to obvious, left trending crack line, hand traverse the crack then finish straight up the short crack. Greasy in wet weather.

'''1b. GBH''' 10m Severe 4a
 ''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010'' Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney

'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998'' 
The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block

'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b ''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998'' Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.

'''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a ''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010'' Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade 

'''2b. BFG''' 8m Hard Severe 4b ''Richie Byrne, Hugh Hunter, Spring 2010.'' The right side of the arete has some short steep grooves. Climb grooves direct.

'''2c. Would you ever shut up about that Rock''' 9m Severe 4a ''Mark Bonner, Graham Brooks Spring 2010'' Start at groove/ corner, four meters right of BFG, higher up and above the boulders. Up corner /groove directly.

[[Image:KillaryUM.jpg|800px]]

'''3. Hide n Seek''' 16m HS ''J. Healy, Achill OEC, July 2018'' Start a few metres right of Hammer Man, beneath a groove. Climb up to groove to good hold at 4m and make a committing step up and right onto the slab. Continue more easily to the top.

'''3a. Hammer Man '''16m V.Diff 
''Graham Brookes, Mark Bonner, Nov 2009'' Start to the left of the main slabs, 3 meters right of jumbled rocks/ boulders. Step up on positive holds and continue straight up short slabs and overlaps, into large open groove, follow this to finish.

'''4. Pink Slab Possy''' 14m V.Diff 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, May 1998'' Left side of main slab, steep / overhang start on good holds, follow cracks then trend left to corner and crack finish

'''5. Slab and Tickle''' 14m Diff 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith, May 1998'' Start in center of slab, keeping just left of side wall, as slab reaches upper part / top of wall, ascend obvious open crack on right wall to finish

'''5b. Paddy G''' 12m 5c/6a 
A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top

'''6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a ''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight) ''
The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip

'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m'' Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023 ''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.

''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

'''7. Gardeners Delight *''' 14m VS / HVS 4c/5a ''Lisa Milner, Barry Smith May 1998'' The obvious chimney crack is followed throughout. Well protected

''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''

'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b 
Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks.

''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''

''The wall just right gives a Moderate route '<nowiki/>'''Passage West'''<nowiki/>' 9meters''

'''9. Portwest''' 9m 5b/c 
Some thin an delicate moves up the right side of the wall 
Top rope only

'''10. Starboard Enterprise *''' 11m HVS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith 2000'' 
Start as for Portwest, traverse from left to right towards arete, follow left side of arete and grooves, before moving left to finish up thin crack. Bold start, and protection hard to see, requiring micro wires, offsets and micro cams to protect.

'''11. Donegal Redneck *''' 10m Severe 4a 
''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter, Nov 2009'' 
Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height, well protected and slightly high in the grade.

'''11a. MC Casey''' 9m HS 4b 
''Michelle Casey, 2010'' 
A slightly eliminate line, but offering soma nice worthwhile, and mostly independent climbing. Start at mid point arete, between Donegal Redneck and First Lady. Follow short grooves and ledges, hardest at start and finishing moves.

'''12. Naked lady *''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, 2005'' 
The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

'''BOULDERING''' '''Some good bouldering is available on the upper crag''' 
a. Around the overhangs between Naked lady and muddy gully 
b. Long traverses between the over hangs and right end of the right wall 
c. The short walls to right of main crag, as passed on approach 

[[Image:KillaryUpperRight.jpg|800px]]

'''A muddy gully marks the start of the Right wall climbs in Killary upper, The slabby grooves just right of the gully mark the first route'''

'''13. Jungle Train''' 14m M-VD 
Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully

'''14. Pick Pocket''' 13m Severe 4a 
''Larry Hunt 1997'' 
Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge (crux) and follow water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket to save your bacon.

'''15. Fingerlicker *''' 12m VS 4c/5a 
''Carl Maddox, Barry Smith'' 
Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket '''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route

'''16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b 
''Alex Russell 2022'' 
2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish

'''17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m E1 5c 
''Peter V. / Juraj Georgievsky 2006'' 
Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making some tricky, delicate balance moves trending up to gain to upper slab. Small / micro wires / cams protect the crux. (shockingly under graded for many years).

'''18. Jelly Legs''' 11m E2/E3 5c 
''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999, (one fall on 1st Ascent, not yet climbed clean).'' 
1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top 

'''The right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove'''

'''19. Groovy Baby''' 10m VS 4c 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Climb into the groove, using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start 

'''20. HNC Arete''' 10m HS 4b 
''Carl Maddox, Richard Beird 1999'' 
Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found

'''21. Strangely Aroused''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Michelle Casey, Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan,Spring 2010'' Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

'''22. Sin E''' 16m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

'''23. Sasta''' 15m V Diff
 ''Dave 'Big Wave' Whelan, Michelle Casey,Spring 2010'' Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

==Killary Crags – Harbour Crag==

This crag is approx ten minutes walk beyond Killary Upper Crag, follow the natural grass ramp which leads from the base of the upper wall routes and descends steadily on approach to the harbour crag. The crag offers a good mix of climbing, including good quality crack climbs, slab routes, steep grooves, aretes and walls. Protection on the majority of routes is good. There are also some slightly bold line's, this should be indicated in the route descriptions. The crag so far has around thirty five developed routes, with plenty of scope for further development.

Route Length 10 - 20 meters
Protection mostly good, a range of cams and off-set wires useful

[[File:KillaryH5.jpg|800px]]

To the left of Honeysuckle crack, are three obvious lines.

6 meters left of Honeysuckle crack, on far left of buttress, is a short arete and slab.

'''Silent Forty''' 12m S 4a
 ''Carl Maddox,Keith Nevin, August 2012.'' Start steeply on arete to base of slab, a delicate move gains top of slab, easier ground to top.

'''Failure After School''' 15m VS 5a
 ''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13'' 3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.

''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.

'''1a. Mr. Keith''' 15m HS 4b
 ''Keith Nevin, Carl Maddox, August 2012.'' Start as for Honey Suckle Crack, going straight up to overhanging Arch, move left out of arch, traversing delicately following a left trending overlap (crux) easier cracks finish straight up. Nice, technical climbing.

'''1.Honey Suckle Crack''' 14m HS 4b
 ''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.'' Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)

'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)

'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004''

'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b ''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a ''Carl Maddox, 2010.''

[[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]

'''6.Midnight Cruiser''' 10m VD

'''7.The Night Crawler''' 10m D

'''8.Nashanator''' 9m D ''Mary Nash 2009.''

'''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD ''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a ''Hugh Hunter 2009.''

'''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b ''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''

'''12.Spider Pig''' 12m HS 4b ''Carl Maddox, Neil McAloon, 2010.''

'''13.Shane's Route''' 9m VD ''Shane Treacy, 2009.''

'''14.Noisy Neighbors''' 9m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009.''

'''15.The Panther''' 8m VD ''Peter Cody, 2009''

'''16.Jammie Dodger''' 8m D ''Richie Byrne, 2009''

[[Image:KillaryH8.jpg|800px]]

'''17. Towering Inferno''' 10m HVS 5a ''Clare Wheatley, 2010.''

'''18.Jessica Rabbit''' 10m Severe 4a ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''19.Mad-dog's Whacky Warehouse (Chimney squeeze)''' 8m Diff ''Carl Maddox (Solo) 2010.''

'''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b

Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. ''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''

'''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a ''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''

'''22.Paddy Wagon''' 9m V Diff ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''23.Jumanji''' 12m Severe 4a ''Patrick Gethings, 2009.''

'''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a

Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

[[Image:KillaryH7.jpg|800px]]

'''26.Vanilla Ice''' 20m Severe 4a

Excellent climbing with a steep start. ''Graham Brookes, 2009''

'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff ''Carl Maddox, 2004.''

'''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a ''Maura Lyons, 2009''

'''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a

Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

'''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

Excellent climbing with a steep, bouldering style start to gain the groove ''Henry Wilkinson, 2009.''

'''30 a.Ring of Fire''' 20m E1 5a

'''31. Black Baron''' 20m VS 4c

Superb climbing, start up the hand size crack to where it runs out, make a committing, albeit well protected move left to gain a sloping ledge (crux) and finish up the stepped corner, small wires and cams to protect upper section. ''Carl Maddox 2009.''

'''32.Hairline Crack''' 14m S/HS 4a/b

Excellent climb up obvious corner crack at the far right of the crag / upper wall ''Carl Maddox 1999.''

[[Image:KillaryH.jpg|800px]]

==Killary Crags Northwest==
This information is taken from New Climbs 1981. 

A gritstone edge above Killary Harbour on flank of Mweelrea. It lies on the end of Killary Harbour, about 300ft up from the shore and one third of a mile east of long beach on the Mayo side of Killary Bay. 
Sheet 37 OS Discovery Series. GR 770 665. 
The edge is approached either from the roadhead leading to the beach or by boat from Gubbandabo Quay.The beach is followed for about a mile from the road then the Killary shore for about one third of a mile to a small cove, which can be reached by boat. The edge is 300 ft directly up the hillside. 
The edge can be divided roughly into three tiers of sizeable buttresses. The first tier encountered has a tree growing out of it; no routes here. The second tier is up and to the L of the first tier. It extends onto the west flank of the hillside overlooking the beach in a short section of 80 ft. slabs. The highest, third tier has one large (50 ft.) impressive buttress, with a good niche crack (unclimbed) and some smaller buttresses to the R. Going R from this buttress the routes are: 

[[File:IMG 20180220 211722 (1).jpg|800px]]

'''1. Deprivation''' 30ft M.S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it. 
Follow a flake, then the R arete.

'''2. Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff. 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall. 
Follow crack throughout. 

'''3. Mania''' 20 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.

'''4. Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.

The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.

'''5. Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R. 
Climb overhang and finish easily.

'''6. The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+) 
''Kelcey, Fenner.'' 
On R-hand side wall of buttress. 
Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.

''On the Second Tier.''

'''7. Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a) 
''Kelcey (solo)'' 
On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.

'''8. Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S. 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
50 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L. 
Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.

'''9. Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Slab around arete from previous route.

'''10. Pollux''' 30ft M.S.

'''11. Castor''' 30ft. M.S. 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs. To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.

'''12. Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff 
''Kelcey, Fenner'' 
Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.

'''13. Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS 
''Fenner, Kelcey.'' 
L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete. 
Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct. 

'''14. Pangs''' 50ft. HS 
Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.

Doo Lough

2025-10-30T12:47:12Z

Carlos: /* Doo Lough – Lower Crag */

==Doo Lough – Lower Crag==

A small compact sandstone crag, situated just above the south western shore of Doo Lough.
GR: 842 671 10 mins walk
The crag is steep and fast drying. Some routes are dusty and in need of a re-clean.

Routes described left to right

[[Image:Doo-Lough-lower-Topo-1200x900px.jpg]]

On the left side of the crag, is a grass ledge which creates a break at half height. An obvious crack give the first route

'''1. Left Crack Severe 4a '''18 meters
 ''C Maddox 1999.'' Climb the crack directly, (in need of a clean)

''In the centre of the main steep wall is a curving ramp''

'''2. Boomerang * E2 5b '''20 meters
 ''B.Smith 1999, (led with protection in place from previous attempt).'' Follow the distinct ramp to small blocky niche, a tricky layback move leads to the steep head wall and faint left trending groove which leads to the top.

'''3. Slab Central * E2 5b '''22 meters
 ''B. Smith 1999'' A direct start to same finish on the steep head wall of Boomerang, climb up the centre of wall to gain upper wall just beyond niche of boomerang, finish as previous route up faint left trending groove.

'''4. Project Route''' – The main over hang has been top roped inspected, probably around 6a moves though roof

'''5. Project route''' – The large hanging corner has been part cleaned and top roped giving moves around 5c

''The final set of routes on the right hand side of the crag are on good rock, belays are well back on the grassy slopes, needing small wires and Cams. The routes all have some good wire placements, however a good range of small to medium cams is recommended to keep the head straight''

'''6. Sunflower Arete * (top section needs re-clean) E1 5c '''18 meters
 ''C Maddox 1999. Cleaned on abseil).'' Start below arete, just left of main corner. Hard start, Pull up gymnastically onto arete and follow this and crack to horizontal break. Traverse break rightwards to finish (original route) or continue straight up shallow groove to top.

'''7. Paper Planes E1/2 5b '''17 meters
 The steep wall, 2 meters right of Sunflower arete. An eliminate line but with some good technical wall climbing, head straight up the wall between Sunflower arete and Sandstorm to the horizontal break, finish up the shallow groove of its sister routes.

'''8. Sandstorm HVS/ E1 5b '''18 meters
 Well protected climbing, starts 4 meters right of Sunflower Arete under steep, blocky grooves and cracks. Pull up steeply onto the hanging block then step left to follow the obvious groove line up the wall, step right near top to delicate moves to finish.

'''9 Born Slippy VS 4c '''12 meters
 Cleaned hanging groove / corner near right hand side of crag,

==Doo Lough - Upper Crag==
The crag is located directly above the northern end of Doo Lough (L 686 824 OS .5" map sheet 10) and can be seen from the road. It is approached by walking along the northern shore of the lake and then up a murderous grassy slope for about 300m. (about 45 minutes). The crag is composed of several buttresses of sandstone, conglomerate and a hard red rock which is possibly volcanic ash (?). Its height ranges from 90 - 60m. The rock is a bit fragile in places, but the climbing is good quality. The routes are described from left to right.

The exact details of IRELAND WALL and KNIGHT'S MOVE are not known. The part of IRELAND WALL reminiscent of the map of Ireland is a fairly small scale feature, at about 20m, and it should be pretty obvious.

'''IRELAND WALL''' S 
''F. Winder, P. Kenny. Easter 1950''

'''KNIGHT'S MOVE''' Diff 
''J. Lynam, Kathleen Price. Easter 1950''

'''(1) AILILL''' 13m E1 5b 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
This climb is found on the most easterly of the smooth buttresses. Protection is not so good. Start at a steep groove - crackline near the right hand end of the buttress. 
Up the groove to steepening rock. Bridge up to gain a blocky hold on the right, 2m. from the top. Move delicately left to a wide crack and finish.

'''(2) VOYAGER''' 42m VS 4c 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start above and slightly to the right of Ailill at a large flake. 
Climb up onto the flake and follow the crack-line directly up the wall to steepening rock and the crux. Finish on good holds. Belay on a block some distance to the left and hard to find

''Left of the main face there is a small triangular buttress of superb smooth reddish rock. It is separated from the main face by a grassy gully. To the right of the buttress there is a large rocky gully which usually has a waterfall. The routes on this buttress are among the finest on the crag.''

''' (3) BRAGELA's WATCH''' 100m E1 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
An excellent climb with a real mountain atmosphere. Start to the east of the crag beneath a tall, steep, narrow buttress, just right of a major gully running up the hillside - about 20m. left of Nightrider. 
1. 30m, 5b. Climb the left face of the buttress to a ledge (micro-wires) and then climb a steep ramp on the left of the buttress with increasing difficulty to a flake crack. Up more easily to a belay. 
2. 20m, 3c. Move up rightwards to a grassy niche, and then left on a rock nose. Follow grass to belay at the base of a steep arête. 
3. 30m, 5a. Climb up the arête passing a short vertical wall on the right. Continue up slightly right to grass ledge and back to a belay. 
4. 20m, 3c. Move up right and then left via a ramp to easy ground and belay some distance to the right.

''' (4) RED DAWN''' 25m E2 5c 
''T. Ryan, S. McEvoy. July 1990'' 
Another excellent and sustained climb with good protection. It takes the right hand of two cracks on the left side of the buttress. 
Approaching from the left make a difficult sequence of moves to gain the crack. Follow this to a difficult bulge to the top. Abseil off to the left.

''' (5) LETTER TO BRESHNEV''' 30m E3/4 6a 
''T. Ryan, S. McEvoy. July 1990'' 
This excellent and serious route starts up a shallow groove near to the right side of the buttress. 
Bridge precariously up the sustained groove to a good peg at 10m. Make a difficult traverse right to large holds. Continue straight up past a poor peg to a crack leading left near the top. Follow this leftwards for 5m. to a short thin crack that leads to the top of the smooth face. Climb a slender pillar of rock above to a belay in a chimney on the left just under the top of the buttress. A superb sustained face climb.

''The following routes are all in the region of the main face, which is an impressive, relatively smooth sheet of rock about 45m. high, the highest buttress on the crag. It has a broad base but tapers towards the top. The right side of the face is a well defined arête with a deep grassy groove on its right. To the left of the face there is a detached buttress of smooth reddish rock. Left again there is a deep slimy gully with a waterfall. The best approach to the area is by following a vague sheep track contouring up over the NW side of Doo Lough to a broad scree filled gully extending down from the crag. Follow the left edge of the gully (about 45 minutes from the road). The starts of most routes are marked by small cairns. The climbs are generally good quality but care is required on some due to the brittle nature of the rock and poor protection. The crag is in a magnificent setting high above the lake with extensive views of mountains and Clew Bay.''

''' (6) EARTH WATCH''' 70m E1/2 
''T. Ryan, S. McEvoy. July 1990'' 
Two contrasting pitches to the left of the main face. The first takes a short fragile looking wall sandwiched between the main face, a wide grassy gully on the left and a grassy terrace above. The second pitch takes a superb line up a prominent corner with overhangs on the upper left side of the main face. Start below the centre of the short wall at a shallow groove. 
1. 30m. 5b. Make a difficult move up the groove to reach brittle flakes which lead to good holds near the top of the face (no. 6 rock sideways at 10m.). Pull precariously over grass and scramble up the terrace to a large blocky belay below the prominent corner (a serious pitch) 
2. 40m. 5b. The corner is initially bulging. Climb this section on large holds. Continue up traversing under two overhangs to a third overhang. Climb over this using a wide crack to the top of the buttress. Scramble up heathery slopes to a spike belay. An excellent pitch on solid rock. It can be reached more easily and safely by starting up the first pitch of Nightrider, reducing the overall grade to E1.

''' (7) NIGHTRIDER''' 70m E1/2 5b/c 
''T. Ryan, A. Dawe. August 1984'' 
The crag is dominated by a large triangular face bounded on its right side by a deep grassy groove. This route takes a line up the left-hand side of the face. Start in the middle of the face. 
1. 25m. 5b. Climb steeply up the wall to a left-trending diagonal crack. Follow this to a gully on the left side of the face. Continue up the left edge of the face until it is possible to move left into the gully. Block belay on the left at the top of the gully. 
2. 45m. 5b/c. Traverse right for 7m. back onto the face (crux) to a crack. Climb the crack in a superb position to easy ground. Scramble up trending slightly right to a spike belay near the top. 
Escape off the cliff by first scrambling up leftwards and then up rightwards along a grassy ramp.

''' (8) CHINA BEACH''' 60m E2 
''T. Ryan, S. McEvoy. July 1990'' 
Takes zigzag cracks up the right side of the main face. A serious route due to sustained climbing on brittle rock and less than perfect protection. Start under the centre of the face just right of the start of Nightrider. 
1. 20m. 5a. Climb steeply up to a narrow ledge. Continue up just left of a large sheet of smooth white rock to another narrow ledge below a thin crack. Make an uncomfortable belay on this ledge using a nut and a No. 1 Friend 3m. higher. 
2. 40m. 5b. Climb the crack and move right to gain a long prominent left trending crack. Ascent to the top of the crack and move right to a right trending crack (No. 4 Friend) which is followed to the right arête of the face. Climb the arête which leads to scrambling and a poor spike belay.

''' (9) SOLITAIRE ''' 55m HS 
''T. Ryan (solo) July 1990'' 
This route follows the prominent grassy groove that bounds the right side of the main face. Although heavily vegetated in the groove the climbing is entirely on solid rock. Start directly below the groove. 
Initially climb just left of the groove, then bridge across the vegetation until it gets slightly steeper at mid-height. Make a delicate move up the left slab of the groove to a ledge. Continue up to a steeper finish to gain the top right arête of the main face. Scramble up to the top of the buttress.

''' (10) ON REFLECTION''' '''115m VS 4b,4c,4b''' 
''Juraj Georgievsky, Carl Maddox, 04.06.2008'' 
A good mountain route with good interest throughout. 
'''1. 4b, 55m''' Start as for Solitaire, follow the major corner and arete feature as for Solitaire, to large block belay. A good pitch on solid rock with some bold climbing on the central section. (If in doubt trick your climbing buddy into leading this pitch) 
'''2. 4c, 30m''' An Excellent varied pitch, well protected. Cross the grass ramp, move up and right to a steep wall and finger crack, (left of blocky section) Climb finger crack for 6 meters (crux) to ledge. Up on blocky ground trending left then right to obvious steep corner, superb bridging up corner to grass ledge and belay 
'''3. 20m 4b,''' Drop down ramp for a few meters to next wall. Follow slab and corner for 10m, move left to steep wall, directly up this taking care with the rock to belay at massive boulder. '''(10 a)''' Direct Finish '''P3. 5a/b 20m Nads Direct''' ''Clement Quinn, Carl Maddox, 24.06.2014'' To the right of the slab and corner, head directly to the clean, obvious overhang. Place good cam protection in the overhang / roof, and make hard, strenuous moves right to gain the ramp. Traverse right along ramp to central crack, and finish delicately, straight up. A well protected challenge, crux high in the grade.

'''(11) DICTATOR''' 75m E1 5b,4b 
''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast. 28.6.1981'' 
The central and highest part of the crag is dominated by an impressive 45m. wall. This is bordered on the right by a deep grassy groove. Right of this there is an obvious thin diagonal crack trending leftwards up a steep slab(!). Start below a shallow corner at the bottom of the crack and about 9m. right of the deep grassy groove. The first pitch offers tremendous climbing. 
1. 42m. 5b. Climb steeply up the corner to a ledge on the right at about 6m. Move left and continue easily up the crack to where it steepens at about 18m. Avoid the crack by following a line of holds on the left wall to a minute overlap. Traverse back right into the thin crack and up this (crux) to a second and larger overlap. Hand traverse down leftwards under the overlap for about 5m. and up to a small ledge. Climb diagonally rightwards to a confined grassy belay stance directly above the crack line. 
2. 33m. 4b. Move left, firstly on grass and then rock to a small overlap. Over this and up a shallow groove for about 6m. At the top of the groove traverse right for about 5m. and pull up onto vegetation. Scramble up to an obvious short leftward-trending groove and up this to the top. Good nut belay (large hex.) about 9m. up the grassy ramp that forms the top of the buttress.

''The next three climbs are found close together in the centre of the crag left and right of a recessed zone of black rock. The first begins on the right side of a steep buttress left of the seepage zone.''

''' (12) BANBA''' 28M HVS 4c 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Climb a steep ramp to a grass ledge and belay.

''' (13) DARK WATERS''' 56m VS 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start just right of the seepage zone below a steep buttress and 2m. left of the start of Heuston Blues. 
1. 28m, 4c. Up the narrowing ramp and crack to a grass ledge and a belay. 
2. 28m, 4c. Up slabby rock to a grass ledge. Climb steepening rock to a bulge and finish. 
(The second pitch may be the top section of Heuston Blues)

''' (14) HEUSTON BLUES''' 30m VS 4b 
''T. Ryan, M. Prendergast. 27.6.1981'' 
About 273m. from the right end of the crag there is an area of black and often wet rock with a long 1m. wide overhang 9m's. up. This route climbs a zigzag crack line on the buttress right of the black rock. Start just right of a gully between the two buttresses at the bottom of a rightward-trending crack. 
Traverse rightwards along the crack to another crack slanting up leftwards. Climb this to a ledge at mid-height. Continue over a small bulge and hence up an easy crack to the top.

''' (15) LAIRGREN''' 48m VS 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start 75m. right of Dark Waters at a ramp - a few metres left of Blue Movie. 
1. 23m, 4b. Climb the leftwards sloping ramp to a ledge and block belay. 
2. 25m,4c. Climb up steeply and slightly left via discontinuous cracks to a ledge. Up again slightly left via a knobbly slab to steeper rock beneath a triangular niche. Climb up on smallish holds (crux) and finish up a gentle slab to belay. 

''' (16) BLUE MOVIE''' 36m S 
''M. Prendergast (1), T. Ryan (2). 27.6.1981'' 
This climb follows an obvious blue-stained leftward-trending ramp about 30m. right of Heuston Blues. 
1. 18m. Climb the ramp to a grassy ledge and belay. 
2. 18m. Move left and follow a leftward-trending crack to a grassy ledge. Trend rightwards up a fine short wall of rough conglomerate. 
Poor protection.

''' (17) PIONEER''' 20m E2 5c 
''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 9.9.1989'' 
Takes a thin crack-line up the wall just right of the ramp of Blue Movie. Start directly below the crack. 
Scramble up to a grassy ledge at 3m. Trend right up the wall into the thin crack and up this (crux) to a large flake at mid-height. Continue awkwardly up the wider left-trending crack above to the top. Good climbing.

''' (18) VOYAGER''' 20m E1 5b 
''T. Ryan, S. MacGerailt, P. Breen. 9.9.1989'' 
About 10m. right of Blue Movie there is a narrow left-trending ramp. Start under this. 
Climb the ramp for 5m. Step left onto small holds and climb steeply to larger holds. There is a poor flake runner out to the left. Continue up the wall, past a poor spike runner to regain the ramp which is followed to the top. Good climbing, though poorly protected.

''' (19) AIFE''' 53m HVS 
''. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
A short but demanding and exciting first pitch. Start at a steep right-trending crack 50m. right of Lairgren. 
1. 18m,5a/b. Climb crack (sustained but with good protection to a small ledge and then left for 5m. to a block belay. 
2. 35m, 3c. Continue up the arête to easy ground.

''' (20) IOLAR''' 40m VS 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start 5m. right of Aife and 3m left of a dirty corner. 
1. 28m, 3c. Up onto the arête to a large block and grassy ledge. Belay behind a large block at the base of the chimney. 
2. 12m, 4c. Up the chimney and crack to an overhanging jammed block which is passed on the left with care.

''The following three climbs are located on the buttress near the right end of the crag. The buttress is characterized by two obvious wide cracks, one trending left and the other right. They meet some distance above the ground. Below the cracks there is a mossy area of rock:''

'''(21) COLUMBIA''' 21m VS 4c 
''T. Ryan, R. Gill. 20.6.1981'' 
This route takes the left-hand crack mentioned above. Start at a broken crack just left of the mossy rock and about 2m. right of the gully forming the left-hand boundary of the buttress. 
Climb diagonally rightwards for about 5m. Ascend the thin jagged crack above to a niche in the wide crack at mid-height. Continue up the leftward-trending crack to the top.

''' (22)WINGS''' 21m HVS 5b 
''T. Ryan, J. Burke. 20.6.1981'' 
Start below a thin faint and red ramp about 9m. right of Columbia. 
Climb the ramp until further progress becomes difficult near the top. Traverse right across the wall to a crack and up this easily to the top. (Excellent sustained climbing.)

''' (23) BEETLE''' 
''T. Ryan, J. Burke, R. Gill. 20.6.1981'' 
This route takes a rightward-trending crack which starts just right of Wings. 
Climb the crack to the top. Scramble up to a block belay.

''' (24) ARDAN''' 42m S 4a 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start 3m. right of Beetle. 
1. 20m. Up via niches to the arête and follow this to a ledge and belay. 
2. 22m. Continue up easier ground to finish. 

''' (25) AINNLE''' 10m HVS 5a 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Unimpressive looking but probably worth it for the crux. Start right of Ardan at a small cave. 
Climb up to beneath the overhang, move left and gain the crack strenuously. Continue up more easily to the top.

''' (26) BARACH''' 13m S 3c 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start to the right of Ainnle. At a small buttress in a recess above the blockfield. 
Climb the arête on the left of the buttress passing the overhang (crux).

''' (27) BRANWEN''' 13m V.Diff 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start just right of Barach. 
Climb up the centre of the buttress past an overlap.

''' (28) GUAIRE''' 47m HVS 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start right of an obvious descent gully at a small, steep, smooth faced buttress. 
1. 12m, 5a. Climb the centre of the buttress to the top treating the rock with care. Poor protection. 
2. 35m, 3c. Climb the wall above on its left side directly to easy ground and belay.

''' (29) CLIONA's WAVE''' 20m VS 4b 
''J. Lyons, D.Wall, July 1987'' 
Start near the western end of the crag just right of a grassy gully and directly above three obvious boulders. 
Climb the corner to dubious blocks and move right beneath an overhang. Gain height and move delicately left to the top of the overhang. Then move easily to the top.

''These routes lie on the cliffs above the south-west end of the lake at Doolough. The most striking buttress here is subtended by a Y-shaped gully. Ascend the rib on the left of the stem of the Y and then traverse onto the face of the buttress above the vegetated portion. The face above has two roughly parallel cracks and a smaller one on the extreme edge. Two routes were taken up the face.''

'''UNNAMED 1''' 45m V.Diff 
''Ms E. Healy and F. Winder Easter 1957'' 
This route starts up the left-hand crack. 
1. 15m. Take the start of the left crack but pull out right up a sloping slab leading right back to the top of a pedestal in the middle of the face. 
2. 15m. Take the right crack to ledge - caution with projecting blocks. Up groove to overhang. Traverse right to belay. 
3. 15m. Take easy groove above to top.

'''UNNAMED 2''' 55m MS 
''B. McCall and F. Butler Easter 1957'' 
The right-hand crack starts just to the right of a pedestal in the middle of the face. This route starts just to the right of this pedestal and initially takes a line up the face to the right of the right crack, but ends up to the left of the previous climb. 
1. 30m. Straight up to belay at the end of the second pitch of Unnamed 1. 
25m. Instead of the easy grooves above, traverse left under an overhang and take a steep groove to the top - really a continuation of the left crack.

'''Pampalona Ridge''' 150m Moderate Scrambling to V.Diff 
''C. Warner and A. Warner 24th July 2013'' 
[[File:DooloughSouth.JPG|center]]
 
From the weir at the downstream end of Doo Lough follow the fence to the left for 100-200m ascend the grassy ramp ‘Weir Gully’ all the way to the flat topped undulating southeastern shoulder of Teevaree. Walk 10 – 15mins towards Teevaree. At approximately N83350, E267120 is the last main rocky outcrop before the main saddle. Descend the steep walled easy gully ‘alleyway’ to the east . Descend 120m keeping to the right of the gully until the rock ridge ends and a sheep track to the south east becomes evident. The route starts at the toe of the ridge. The ridge is divided into a lower and an upper section by a grassy ramp at about 60m which joins the ‘alleyway’ gully. The rock quality was found to be very good. Gear was adequate. 
 
1. 40m Moderate to Diff enjoyable climbing on solid rock as far as large grassy ledge. Belay at a low wall of conglomerate rock. 
2. 30m Moderate to Hard Scrambling to the top of lower section. Scramble across (right) the dividing grassy ramp to the foot of upper section and climb to a belay. 
3. 30m Moderate to Hard Scrambling. Climb on solid rock to the left of a grassy gully before crossing right via a right trending grass ramp and rock to the right edge of ridge overlooking the ‘alleyway’ gully. Belay at an excellent crack just to the left of edge. 
4. 30m Diff to V.diff. Climb on to the the top of solid large blocks at the right edge of the ridge, and then escape onto the narrow arête to the left across a niche and climb / bridge up out of the difficulties to good sling belay. 
5. 20m Moderate scrambling on solid rock to top of ridge.

Achill

2024-03-08T10:47:54Z

Carlos:

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Over 100 climbs on the sea cliffs leading to Keem bay, both Single and Multi-Pitch, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes. In addition the Slievemore ridge offers a mix of accessible slabs and mountain routes with around 15 developed climbs and plenty of development potential.'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * VD (3c) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

Around 15 routes ranging from long easy and accessible slab climbing to more mountain style climbs topping out on the Slievemore ridge. Some of the shorter slab climbs start above steep, grassy approaches so an abseil might offer a more relaxed and logical approach, albeit missing the original adventure of grass and heather belays.

A bit of cleaning would bring plenty of new route potential and the current climbs such as Natasha VS and Bitch out Route E2 offer good example's of the climbing quality.

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''HS 1 Route'''

'''VS 3 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

'''E2 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ledges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along huge block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) First pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]

Achill

2024-03-08T10:44:04Z

Carlos: /* Achill Sea Cliffs */

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Over 100 climbs, both Single and Multi-Pitch, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * VD (3c) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

Around 15 routes ranging from long easy and accessible slab climbing to more mountain style climbs topping out on the Slievemore ridge. Some of the shorter slab climbs start above steep, grassy approaches so an abseil might offer a more relaxed and logical approach, albeit missing the original adventure of grass and heather belays.

A bit of cleaning would bring plenty of new route potential and the current climbs such as Natasha VS and Bitch out Route E2 offer good example's of the climbing quality.

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''HS 1 Route'''

'''VS 3 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

'''E2 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ledges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along huge block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) First pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]

Achill

2024-03-08T10:27:17Z

Carlos: /* Achill Sea Cliffs */

===Achill Sea Cliffs===

'''Compiled by Carl Maddox, Easy Fear Productions'''

'''The Climbing'''

'''Around 108 Single and Multi-Pitch Routes, up to 105 meters. Rock quality is mostly good with excellent friction and generally well protected routes'''

'''M-VD 17 Routes'''

'''S-HS 49 Routes'''

'''VS-HVS 36 Routes'''

'''E1-E4 6 Routes'''

On a clear day, the Achill climbing experience can be superb. Quality climbing, great sea views and varied wildlife are all part of the mix.

The sea cliff climbing in Achill is on well weathered and featured Daldradian Quartzite, Meta-sediments and Conglomerates. The climbs so far are mainly in the lower to mid grades, and some of the really stand out routes tend to be in the Severe to HVS range. As a general rule the rock offers excellent friction, good protection and very clean distinct lines. The climbs have an adventurous feel, often striking out directly above the sea, most requiring abseil access and often hanging belay stances. Whilst some routes are more easily accessible, parties should be well organized and competent in sea cliff access. The ground, scrambling out above the tops of some routes requires care due to some looser capping layers in parts. It is worth leaving abseil ropes in place for Belays and to protect the exit from routes. The climbs particularly around Waterfall cove top out on steep grass or looser rock, so escape ropes should be left in place in this top section for safety, along with Prussiks.

Main Belay points are sometimes just below these grassy/ rocky top outs and this should be noted for the area your climbing in.

Use of helmets is strongly advised.

Sea conditions can be rough, at times requiring a high belay point to avoid spray and large waves.
Once orientated and comfortable with the approach, Achill offers high quality climbing, covering a whole variety of situations and techniques. New routes are easily found, with scope for a huge number of lines at all grades.

To get the best from each area and make the most from each visit, a good approach is to pick a section of cliff for the day, set your abseil and get as many lines ticked in this area as possible before moving on.

[[Image:Achill1.jpg|800px]]

'''Main Approach'''
From Achill Sound take main R319 for approx 17km to Keel. Then onto Dooagh (3km). Stay on R319 towards Keem bay

Use Parking Area A 
For access to: '''Foher, Waterfall Cove, Mweelaun Rocks and Carrickmore Point'''
2.5km from Dooagh, GR: F585044

'''Parking Area A'''
Cars can be left at a lay-by on the right of the road leading to Keem. Park just before the turn off to the water board plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to Waterfall cove (see crag entry) Approach to other cliff sections in this area are described in relation to Waterfall cove.

'''Parking Area B''' 
For access to areas, '''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) and Fohermore (Ocean Boulevard Area)'''1km from parking area A GR: F576044
From parking area A, continue towards Keem on R319 for around 1km. Park at Grassy lay-by on left. This lay-by is found as road reaches its highest point and just before the road dips and bends to the right around a major gully line

<display_map>
53.969249, -10.156746~Parking Area A
53.96983, -10.17175~Parking Area B
</display_map>

[[Image:Achill2.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill_Locations_Guide_P1_.jpg]]

==Far West - Long Walk Area==
A new area between Keem beach and the Big blue area was explored. There seems to be scope for a small number of routes here, including an impressive hanging corner, which was too wet to try on our visit, and a reasonable looking shorter wall. Approach to this area starts from parking area B. From the parking area B, walk along the road towards Keem bay. Passing two major and steep gully systems until a third gully reached. This Gully is easy angled and straight forward to walk into, follow this third gully down to its base. As you stand facing the sea, turn and head left to a large, obvious rock pinnacle, that has a distinct crack running on its right wall.
This is:

'''The Long Walk * Severe 4a 22m (+ 38m Scramble)'''
Follow the obvious crack on right side of the rock pinnacle, passing small overhangs at half height(crux),finish directly up capping slabs. A long scramble trending left leads to belay.
Carl Maddox, Henry Wilkinson, March 2010

==Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area)==
A compact area of cliffs 150m west of the major, main gully and bordered on the right by large overhangs which lead to a sizable cove. 30 meters from the left (west facing) edge of the cove is a series of obvious corners, arêtes, walls and crack lines facing out to the open sea, GR: 573043 This is the Big Blue central Area. The routes generally offer good clean rock, are well protected and offer excellent friction. From the crag top, looking out to sea, the distinct corner of ‘Barnacle Bill’ marks the left edge of this section. Route descriptions are described in relation to the base of this route. All routes are approached by abseil, and some requiring a belay stance above high water mark. As is common in Achill, once set up in an area the best approach to tick off several routes, is to climb a number of lines from one abseil link before moving on.

[[Image:Achill24.jpg|800px]]

[[Image:Achill3.jpg|800px]]

'''1a. A'chill Seagull, VS 4C 16m'''
Takes the arete just right of Barnicle Bill with a step left at 1/3 height to continue on arete. A few good moves and a bold start leads to better gear and easier pleasant climbing. C. Ó Fiannachta, O. Parkinson-Coombs, J. Gillmor, 12/06/21

'''1b. A View to Achill HS 4b 11m'''
Takes the corner just right of A'Chill Seagull. Start up thin crack directly beneath corner. Proceed up corner, placing gear strenuously or moving speedily to gain the ledge. From here surmount a couple easy ramps to reach a comfortable belay. Worth doing if the tide has risen and you want a quick route to round out the day. O. Parkinson-Coombs, C. Ó Fiannachta 12/06/21
[[File:A'chill Seagull topo.jpg|none|thumb|531x531px]]

'''1.Barnacle Bill, * VD (3c) 17m''' 
Take obvious V corner and cracks, (which when viewed from above) mark’s the left section of this area. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

All routes are now described as if from the base of the crag, facing in land

'''2.Sky Road, * VS (4b) 17m''' 
The arête just left of Barnacle Bill, bold start 
14/06/09

'''3.Thumper , ** VS (4c) 18m''' 
The first full crack line left of Sky Road, Excellent crack climbing, with the crux near the start, and a layback to finish 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Alt finish, follow crack to 2/3rd Height, traverse right to short finishing crack/ arête of sky road'''

'''4.The Big Blue, *** HS (4a) 27m''' 
Superb airy climbing, start up left hand crack with increasing difficulty to ledges. Make a delicate traverse left to exposed arête, up this to finish. 
Carl Maddox, 14/06/09

'''5.Bridge Over Troubled Waters, ** S (4a) 26m''' 
Another corker of a route, start in the corner left of Big Blue, climb corner to bulge, as corner eases move right to crack, follow crack to deep v groove. Climb the groove with excellent bridging passing left of blocks near top. 
Paddy Gethings 14/06/09

'''Fohernadihabby (Big Blue Area) Left Walls'''

[[Image:Achill3a.jpg|800px]]

'''6. Little Block of Horrors, * HS (4b) 26m''' 
The thin crack line, 2m left of A Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Belay on small ledge 1-2m left of crack line. Tricky start, step right to crack and short hanging groove. Up crack to large block which wobbles but seems secure so far, angle eases after this block. Follow crack to end, step 1 meter right to short brown corner, up this and easy grooves to finish 
Carl Maddox. 16/06/09

'''7. Noo Shoos? Diff/ V.Diff 28m''' 
Start 2 meters left of Little Block of Horrors. Follow corner crack to short easy chimney. Trend slightly left following obvious easy slabs, grooves and cracks to belay 
Paddy Gethings 16/06/09

'''8. Echoes ** VS (5a) 25m''' 
Nice climbing 2-3 meters left of Noo Shoos. Start at the thin finger crack, directly below A shaped overhang. Climb crack which gets steeper near overhang (crux, small wires useful), make delicate move to gain good hold below overhangs, another hard move gains foot ledge. Finish pleasantly through overhangs to easier scramble finish. 
Carl Maddox, 16/06/09

'''9. Crouching Tiger S (4a) 20m''' 
This climb starts just left of Echoes, and follows crack and corner into the overhang, crouch up and traverse right to good foothold. Straight up overhang to finish as Echoes 
Carl Maddox, 24/08/09

Moving left from Echoes wall, around a blunt arete, is a steep wall dropping directly to the sea, the far side of this wall turns into the main zawn. The top section of the wall has a huge seawards slanting ledge, leading to capping well featured overhangs.

[[Image:Achill23.jpg|800px]]

'''10.EZ Nuff S (4a) 22m''' 
Start 3 meters right of Ball licker at large ledge well above hight tide mark. Climb straight up groove and small overhang to reach large sloping ledges. Follow ledges to finish as for Ball licker.
Richard Byrne, Hugh Hunter 20/02/10

'''10.Ball Licker * S (4a) 28m''' 
Start 1 meter right of Deliverance, below obvious right hand crack leading to vee groove/ corner. Up directly to ledge, scramble to steeper finish on right side of overhangs 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''11.Deliverance * S (4a) 28m''' 
2 meters right of Clockwork Orange, Straight up crack to huge ledge, tackle overhangs just right of main prow, heading to finish up steep 'green' wall. 
Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

'''12.Clockwork Orange ** HS (4b)28m (Possibly VS4c)''' 
Central Orange and Black pock marked crack, straight up crack passing second crack and crux at 2/3 height. From ledge straight up under main overhangs, pull over this in a dramatic and exposed position, large holds. 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''13. Dark Water * HS (4b) 27m'''
Start 2 meters left of Clockwork Orange,Straight crack lead's to l/r slanting twin cracks. Climb cracks where crux move gain's horizontal break. Traverse break right for 2-3 meters to slab. Follow slab under shadow of vee overhang to easy finish. Jurai Georgievsky, August, 2011

'''14. Twelve Monkeys ** VS (5a) 30m'''
Take the thin crack 2 meters left of Dark Water. Follow crack where crux moves gain horizontal break. Climb up and slightly left to groove/ chimney left of arete, at large overhangs traverse right to arete top and ledge. (care with rock to right of ledge)from tip of arete, pull up steeply through overhang on good rock and large holds to finish. A great, varied route, with some exposed moves. Carl Maddox, August, 2011.

==Californication Area==
This non tidal crag, sits (as you face out towards the sea) just left and behind you from the Big Blue ledges above and left of Barnacle Bill. A steep and well featured wall with and overhang to its left is visible and marks the first of the routes Californication. Routes are described from left to right as your facing the crag.

16. '''Californication, * S 4a 20m'''
This route takes the steep and well featured wall, start on lower ledges up to corner where steep bridging gains the wall and overhang, move directly up the cracked wall until a vegetated groove is met, step right around arete and finish to large block belay. Nice little route.

Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

17. '''Huckleberry Hound, * HS 4b 20m'''
Start on the lower ledges directly below the corner of 'Californication'. Climb up to the base of corner with arete on right. Follow thin cracks (crux) leading to a step out onto the arete. Traverse the horizontal cracks rightwards to arete and finish.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky, October 2011.

18. '''Yosemite Sam, * VS 4c 14m'''
Scramble down and 5m right of Californication. Start on bold slab leading to overhanging corner. Follow slab trending slightly left to overhangs. Surmount overhang (crux) into corner to finish at block belay as for previous routes.
Carl Maddox, Chris Mckeagney August 2010

19. '''UMPH, Sev 4a 23m'''
Start on ledges 4-5 meters right of Yossmite Sam overhangs, under the next obvious overhang. Go up easy wide crack where steepening groove leads to main overhang. Traverse left under overhangs until a break right take you onto upper walls/ slabs. Straight up to finish.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October, 2011.

20. '''Foghorn Leghorn, * HVS 5a 23m'''
Start as for UMPH to overhangs/ roof, slot some gear in the roof and launch out directly on good powerful moves and hoopla onto the slabby walls above, finish direct. A worthwhile route with an entertaining and well protected crux.

Carl Maddox, Juraj Georgievsky. October 2011.

Moving right again from start of Yosemite Sam, passing overhangs until an obvious l/r angled corner appears, the next three routes start at the base of this corner

21. '''OMG VS 4c 22m'''
Start just left of the Colonel Mustard corner, go up wall directly 2 meters left of steep groove line. Make delicate moves (crux) up this steep wall which gradually eases towards the top.

Clare Wheatley, Paddy Gethings, October 2011.

22. '''Colonel Mustard, * VS 4b 22m'''
Start at angled corner, move up for three meters then head straight to follow vertical groove line. Climb this to a tricky move to escape groove. Place gear on right then follow rising traverse for four meters to a delicate rock over onto a good foot hold, on the bulging slab. Up this to block belay. Nice climbing.

Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010

23. '''Captain Boycott, S/HS 4a 20m'''
Start at angled corner and follow this to make awkward move onto ledge, protection tricky to arrange/ poor in places. Move up and trending right along obvious R/L groove and crack lines to block belay.

24. '''Alternative finish to Captain Boycott HS 4b'''
From mid-way ledge move up passing overhang on right and meet short steep wall, high gear protects tricky move right crossing steep wall and gaining top of overhang. Finish up to blocks and belay.
Carl Maddox, Patrick Schofield, August 2010.

==Area East of Big Blue Area==

Park and approach as for Big Blue area. This area lies 150m east of Big blue area, closer to the main gully. Approach down right flank (west) side of main gully. As edge of main gully turns to meet the open sea, follow cliff tops towards big blue area, for approx 75 meters. Two obvious large slabs appear. These routes are reached by abseil down the first slab, routes are described from Left to right as you face the wall.

'''25.Lepoard * Diff 38m''' 
Take the obvious crack line in the middle of main slab 
Charlotte Perkins 20/09/09

'''27.Lola * VS (4c,4a) 28m''' 

'''1. (4c).15m''' Start in middle of slab below large triangular block. Up slab to triangular block, pull over block and make tricky move left to gain short hanging slab, follow slab to next overhang , traverse left under overhang to its end, belay at twin cracks. 

'''2. (4a) 12m.''' Straight up twin cracks to steep orange wall, straight up this wall on good holds 
Paddy Gethings 24/09/09

'''26.Corner Climb * V Diff 32m''' 
Follow corner of slab/ walls up and traversing right below overhangs to finish easily up slab 
Carl Maddox, 20/09/09

'''28.Pegasus ** HVS 5a/b 32m''' 
'''P1. 20m (5a/b)''': Follow slab corner on far right of slab, which leads to a distinct hanging groove. Follow groove, sustained to pull through overhang using crack on right. Up slab to next overhangs, move delicately left under overhangs to reach a vee-slot, reach through vee and pull onto slab and belay

'''P2. (4a)''': 12m Easier but delicate ground to finish.

Carl Maddox, 24/09/09

==Main Gully, West Walls==

'''The huge (Well large) West Facing wall of the Main Gully looks to have great potential for new routes, with some obvious hard lines through hanging corners, and steep, bold slab climbing. Two routes have been done here so far, the two routes so far, whilst having some easy sections, offer good solid climbing lines and interesting pitches. '''

Approach is either by walking down the main gully following the right side and then traversing back east into the gully base, or better by abseiling down the central main slab area. The Abseil is a handy 5 mins from the car parking B, and a 50 meter rope will get you to the base scramble quite quickly

29. '''Eagull * 95m HS 4b, 4a, 4b'''

Climbed on a day, my climbing buddy Clem incorrectly identified a Sea Gull as a White tailed Eagle.
Abseil or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West facing Wall.

1. 25m Start under short lowest wall, and climb steep left hand crack (tricky to start) to ledge, step right and climb orange wall to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of the steep wall.

2. 30m Take left trending crack and vegetated corner to base of Arete. Traverse left of Arete and climb unprotected, vertical vegetation for 15 meters and pray you don't fall! Belay on grass ledge

3. 40m Climb pebbled slab, directly behind belay then traverse right to small spike. From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd left traverse and up corner to finish on Pebbled slab and cliffs high point. (An excellent Adventure)

'''NOTE: Pitch 2 was an escape option (And not recommended) the intended route up the prominent crack in the center of slab / wall required cleaning, and was subsequently climbed on The Eagle Has Landed route. The pitch once cleaned offers some great climbing and a fairly committing and bold crux'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox May 2014.

[[Image:Achill Eagle Has Landed 2a.jpg]]

30. '''The Eagle Has Landed ** 105m HVS 5a, 5a, 4b'''

90 meter Abseil central slab or walk to lowest point of the Gullys West Wall.

1. 25m (5a/b) Start under short wall, and climb left crack - as for 'Eagull' (tricky to start) to ledge, step left to overhang. Climb outside edge of overhang with a strenuous and gymnastic layback start into the large V groove. Move up left corner to grass ledges. Climb pebbled slab for 12 meters to reach base of steep wall.

2. 32m (5a) Traverse right to base of prominent, steep crack in the center of slab / wall. Climb crack for 10 meters to reach large flakes left of the grass ledge. Move up on flakes and make delicate and bold traverse right (Crux) to reach small side crimps. Rise boldly on crimps to better hand holds and pull into the mini corner. Climb corner (protection now returns) then traverse right for 4 meters then up to belay on large grass ledge. (An excellent pitch offering some great climbing with a fairly committing and bold crux, requiring a confident approach)

3. 48m (4b) 'The Monster pitch' From belay traverse 10 meters left to reach short slab, below prominent crack lines. Climb slab, then traverse right to small spike (as for Eagull). From Spike, place high gear and traverse left then follow corner and cracks, trending slightly left. Follow cracks to 2nd traverse and corner. From 2nd corner step delicately, down and left to base of central left trending crack. Climb the left trending crack to top.(Technically the easier pitch, but with an adventurous big feel)

'''ALL in an excellent route, with a short hard bouldering start, a superb and challenging 2nd crux pitch and a big feel adventure pitch to finish.'''

Clem Quinn & Carl Maddox, 15th May 2014.

==Fohermore and Ocean Boulevard Area==

Park as for Fohernadihabby, Parking area B at the grassy lay-by, GR: 576044

An interesting area with plenty of potential for further development. Approach by descending the East (left) side of the main Gully until the Cliffs turn out East (Leftwards) to face the open sea. Two large ribs of rock mark the start of this section. The first rib, nearest the main gully has one route so far, this route takes a diagonal line across the first rib. Abseil to the right side of the rib (as you face the sea), finding a belay below overhangs.

31. '''One Step Beyond S 4a ** 30m'''

Start below the overhangs, climb directly through these, then traverse left on big holds to easier ground and scramble finish

32. '''One Step Below VS 4c ** 35m'''
Climb lowest crack from small ledge at the base of right side of rib to meet start of previous route, on meeting the scramble finish of One Step Beyond, climb instead up the steep and exposed crack line to the left of the scramble, to give a well protected and dramatic finish
Carl Maddox, August 2011.

'''Moving East away from the Main Gully, a large re-entrant separates the first and second Ribs'''

The next set of routes are reached by abseil or scramble down the centre of the second rib, routes described from the base of the Rib, left to right

33. '''Micheal's Mills * VS 4b, 4c, 4c 40m'''
Start as for Pitch 1 of The Rainmaker. A good varied route, with an exposed second pitch.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of large, open book corner.

2. 4c. Move left of corner to follow grooves and thin crack to left side of overhangs. Locate the well lodged block in the overhangs and pull hard through this onto hanging slab. Up slab for 2-3 meters to belay on small ledge just right of left curving corner.
3. 4b. The Original route finished as for the rainmaker, following v-corner to finish. Micheal and Jurai Georgievsky, September, 2011.

'''A better finish to Micheal's Mills, pitch 3 follows the steep left curving corner and crack above the belay'''

Alt Pitch 3.'''Dough Bre Finish to Micheal's Mills* 4c'''

From belay of pitch 2, step left and follow the curving corner to finish on upper slab. Take care with rock on last few meters

Clement Quinn, September, 2011.

34. '''The Rainmaker * HS 4b, 4b, 36m'''
Start as for Fishy Suspicious. A nice route with a committing traverse on pitch 2.

1. 4b. 10m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, traverse left to belay at base of the large, open book corner.

2. 4b. 26m Climb corner direct to where it meets overhangs. Swing out right along the horizontal break and using delicate foot work which leads to a rockover, rightwards onto the slab. Climb straight up shallow groove and into easier v-corner to finish.

Carl Maddox, September, 2011.

35. '''Deception S 4a, 3c 35m'''
Abseil in as for Fishy Suspicious. Move right to smooth outer face of 'massive block wall'.

1. 4a. 8m Up middle of smooth wall with protection in horizontal breaks, Belay on top of block

2. 3c. 27m Follow slabby ground directly above block to top

Cormac Ryan September 2010

36. '''Fishy Suspicious HS 4b,4b 35m'''
Start on large blocky ledges, just left of leaning corner and massive block wall

1. 4b. 25m Pull steeply up main central crack and follow this to first ledge, then follow next crack direct to second ledge and distinct vee-slot. Belay below steep orange cracked wall.

2. 4b. 10m Pull straight up onto orange wall and follow left crack then easier ground to top

Chris Mckeagney, September 2010.

'''Heading East from the second Rib, a large and obvious V-corner marks the line of Rising Damp. 20 meters right (West) of this corner (as your looking out to sea) is a scramble which leads to the top of a clean, easy angled slab with short corner on the right which turns then towards a long well featured, West Facing, cracked wall. Abseil the wall past the corner to reach slanting, non-tidal ledges below this series of cracks'''

37. '''First Impressions * HS (4a) 28m'''
Follow the right hand obvious crack and arete throughout, well protected with sustained quality climbing for 14 meters followed by easy slabby climbing for another 14 meters to reach belays
Neal McAloon 14/05/10

The next crack line, to the left is the start of the next three routes, which despite being link ups, all have a distinct style and individual challenge

38. '''Head Shop S (4a) 11m'''

Take the second distinct crack line, starting 2-3 meters left of First Impressions, follow crack direct to top
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

39. '''The Great Escape * HS (4b) 20m'''

A nice route with a couple of tricky moves. Start as 'Head Shop', follow the crack to just over half height, then follow diagonal crack left passing a couple of tricky sections before finishing up the short scooped corner
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

40. '''Empire State of Mind * VS (5a) 30m'''

A nice link up climb, with a short, hard sting in the tail. Follow great escape entirely to the scoop corner, get a good rest then move diagonally left under a small overhang/ undercut, before making a committed move left, to step down onto a brown foot ledge. Move up to the R/L trending crack line, using slopers and jams for the hands, before a tricky move left leads to a yahoo celebration as you bridge the corner. Relax and enjoy the view then saunter up the corner to belay
Carl Maddox 14/05/10

Moving 20 meters East, the next obvious feature is the large V groove / chimney of Rising Damp

41. '''Rising Damp, * S (4a) 42m''' 
A good value route, with well protected and mostly straight forward climbing. Abseil down corner to start at High tide mark, just right of damp lower cracks. Up and move into corner as soon as possible, follow corner then move right near the top to cracks avoiding the vegetation. Treat blocks near top with Care. 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

For the next route abseil in as for Rising damp. Move 6-7 meters right of Rising damp start to belay in a short corner, topped by overhang.

42. '''The Walrus * HS, (4a, 4b) 40m''' 
A nice climb following the walls and cracks to the Right of Rising Damp 

'''(4a) 22m.''' Pass out first overhang, taking v slot on right, easy ground leads up and left to large overhang. Pass this on left by stepping out onto steep cracked wall, follow cracks to low angled groove belay, just below next overhang 

'''(4b) 18m.''' Up to overhang, which is passed on the left by delicate traverse out over lip of slab and gain corner crack on right (crux). Struggle up this before bursting through with relief to an easier finish up the short arête 
Carl Maddox, 17/06/09

[[Image:Achill4.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, the Large V Corner of Rising Damp'''

[[Image:Achill6.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, The Walrus, S/HS 4a, 4a/b'''

East again of Rising Damp, a small sea inlet / re-entrant separate’s the large Corner of Rising Damp and the rib of Ocean Boulevard

43. '''Ocean Boulevard, * S(4a) 30m''' 
Climb up trending left to obvious overhanging crack with v-groove above and to the left. Traverse overhang left and into v groove (crux). Up this and short corner above to belay below grass. Prusik out of the grass and blocks, treating rock with care. A good adventure for the grade 
Paddy Gethings 17/06/09

Next route starts by Abseiling onto ledge below the overhang of Ocean Boulevard. From the ledge, scramble down and left across massive block to belay at base of corner left of Zawn.

44. '''White Zawn, S (4a) 35m'''
Climb corner to steep wall leading to large hand traverse, leading left along flake. Continue easily and trending slightly left to short crack, up this and easy ground to top.
Jurai Georgeivsky, August 2011.

A new area 200 meters beyond Ocean Boulevard, towards waterfall cove. There appears to be scope for several routes in this area.

This next section is situated to the East of main gully, marked on OS map 30 as Fohermore. The area is contained with main gully to the West and small cove marking the most easterly limit. Head straight down towards sea from parking. As you approach the cliffs traverse East (left) towards the Cove.
As the Cove edge turns to face the open sea, a steep rock and grass drop off, leads to a large, clean rock rib below. Abseil from large thread, down grass to rib, continue to lowest point on rib, belaying on ledge just above high tide mark.

The next two routes are approached by abseil over steep hanging blocks (of varying stability). Abseil to large block ledges.

45. '''Zoolander * VS 4c / HVS 5a 35m'''

From highest point of block ledges, interesting, steep climbing leads to hanging crack / corner to to a second overlap (crux). From top of overlap move easily up pebbled corner slab to overhangs on left. Pull gingerly through overhanging blocks on good holds. A good climb with some dubious blocks/ ground to finish.
Carl Maddox, Jurai Georgeivsky, November 2011. (Second overlap was aided for 2 meters, due to wet rock and excessive fear, after a dryer spell looks like offering good 5a climbing)

46. '''Delicato * VS 4b 38m'''

Climb obvious thin crack from left tip of boulder ledges. Nice moves with spaced gear leads straight up to reach a ramp, climb rightwards along ramp to pull over to base of pebbled corner slab (as for Zoolander). Up slab for 4 meters then move right along ledge then pull directly through main overhangs, treating the rock with care. Good, albeit run out climbing requiring a steady lead.
Jurai Georgeivsky, Carl Maddox November 2011.

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

'''Fohermore, GR578042'''

Walk westwards from Mweelam for 300m to the next zawn with a large easy angled slab on its western side. Abseil in from good boulders to a huge belay ledge.

'''AN TAIGEAN''' VS 4c 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

From the seaward side of the ledge, step up left onto the wall and traverse left to a small ledge. Climb direct for 6m before trending further leftward to gain a pale achre shield. Pull up right and continue direct.

'''SAUCERFUL OF SECRETS''' E3 5b 30m

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Continue directly up between the between a broken crack 2m to the left and a vertical white quartz line 1m to the right. hard moves with no protection gain a small overlap. Continue delicately and directly up to easier ground. First decent nut at 25m.

'''GATES OF DAWN''' E1 5a

T Taylor, M Baron, 12/4/1995.

Start at inverted <nowiki>''V''</nowiki> 4m from seaweed end of ledge. Pull up onto the black slab. Step right across the white rock. Continue up immediately left of pronounced white streak to the break where the streak ends. Pad easily up the finishing slab. Protection spaced but good.

Further west is another zawn with a massive vertical orange wall at its's back. It lies 250m west of '''GATES OF DAWN'''. Approach from there or by parking at the turn off for Acorymore Lake and walking down diagonally westward. A useful landmark is the massive easy angled slab dropping into the sea 50m east of the zawn.

The following two routes take the slab on the western side of the zawn. Scramble easily down the boulder strewn grass slope above the western slab. From the boulders abseil down to the top of the slab or cautiously scramble down to the top of the slab. A long abseil down the slab to small ledges just above the high water mark and below the large overlap.

'''SLIDE OF HAND''' VS 4c 40m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

Climb easily into the rightward facing groove. Up this to the overlap and pull through onto the compact slab. Continue straight up this to the abseil point. Difficulties are short lived. Pleasant slab climbing.

'''GATES OF EDEN''' HVS 5a 90m

T Taylor, M Baron, 16/4/1995.

#4c. 27m. Start on the small ledge, traverse up rightwards across the pebbled slab to a brea and the overlap. Belay.
#4b. 44m. Continue up the centre of the black slab with good but spaced protection to belay below white overlap at right side of slab.
#5b. 18m.Pull through the white overhang before thin slabby moves, gain the grass edge. Easy scrambling to good rock belay. Difficulties are over quickly.

==Foher Area==

Two routes, which wander just a bit too much are recorded for completeness. They are found 200m west of Foher Area, short walls with easy scramble access to non tidal rock ledges

47. '''Bootlegger HS (4b) 16m''' Chris Keely, Carl Maddox, June 2004

48. '''Foot loose in Wonderland S/HS (4a) 15m''' Carl Maddox, Chris Keely, June 2004

About 500m, West of waterfall cove is a large rib of rock, pointing out to the open sea.
As right hand slab turns to face the open sea, routes described from below from left to right

49. '''Stokie ** HS (4b) 18m''' 
As the wall turns left two obvious, steep, left trending cracks topped by a distinct overhang appear. Follow cracks on good holds and protection in a leftwards rising traverse, under overhangs until cracks run out and force you to reach holds over the overhang. Up to belay. Great steep climbing on good holds, scramble out to finish Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

50. '''Potters S (3c) 35m'''
Start in middle of wall at orange slab. Trend left to left edge of wall, up slab to overhang, step right round overhang to blocky slab, up this (crux) to finish easily on rib above 
Ben Siddal, Carl Maddox Sept, 2003

51. '''Foher Corner * Diff. 30m''' 
The obvious crack and v-corner/ groove. Start easily up to corner, nice bridging leads to right traverse to ledge. Move left off ledge to rib, scramble up rib to finish 
Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Sept, 2003

==Waterfall Cove==

This crag is situated on the coast between Dooagh and Keem bay. Cars can be left at a lay-by on the road to Keem near a turn off to the water treatment plant. From here a short walk south east brings you to a small cove. A small stream forms a waterfall at the back of the cove hence the area has been called Waterfall Cove. Eighteen routes have been made in this cove and the remainder are found to the east.

A large pebbled slab forms the bulk of the east facing side of the cove. To the left of this are a series of grooves and bulges, and a small orange and black slab. Left again is a slabby wall and the first eight routes can be found from here. Descent to the platform is by abseil, or down climbing

[[Image:Achill11.jpg|800px]]

(52). '''Slanting Grooves’ on the slabby wall Moderate, 18m'''

(53). '''1. Babywinkle * V.Diff 18m''' 
A nice climb on the slabby wall. The small corner formed by two cracks 6m left of In the Pink. Large friends/ hexes useful 
T.McQueen, 1989

(54). '''2. In The Pink Diff 20m''' 
Obvious corner at right end of slabby wall, move left onto the slab as the corner bulges 
D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

The top out on this section is grass (routes 3-8) Belays are just below top out, care of wet grass whilst in climbing shoes! Recommended for teams to top out protected by top belay to safer ground on left. Body belay to protect last climber from top belay and across grass.

(55). '''3. Sure Nuff ‘N’ Yes I Do * VS (4b) 20m'''Start as for In The Pink. Up rightwards to niches then left on ramp to gain hanging pebbled corner. Up to belay just below grass. Slightly bold but straight forward on traverse 
T.McQueen, A.McQueen, 1989

(56). '''4. A Right One HS (4b) 20m '''Up the orange and black slab and then the deep recessed groove to the right 
A.Macfarlane, 1989

(57). '''5. Colonial Boy ** E1 (5a/b) 20m''' 
The thin crack line immediately right of the orange and black slab, and the shallow groove directly above, Belay at spike/ block just below the grass. 
A.Macfarlane,T.McQueen, 1989

(58). '''6. Zig Zag Wanderer ** HS (4b) 20m''' 
Start from the rightmost and smallest ledge on the platform. Traverse right 3m to good cracks. Up, then rising traverse leftwards to ledge (crux). Right and round to finish directly up white pebbled slab at Colonial Boy belay. T.McQueen, A.Macfarlane, 1989

(59). '''7. Dawson and Mags * HS (4a/b) 20m''' Traverse 3m further right from Zig Zag Wanderer to a crack which widens as it meets the sea. Up crack to overhang. Bridge up then swing out right on good jugs. Up easily then left sloping ramp to top. Belay to left of Colonial Boy D.Stelfox, M.Stelfox, 1989

(60). '''8. The Gash HS (4a) 25m''' The most obvious crack line up the centre of the large pebbled slab. Gain starting niche by long rightwards traverse from the platform, or by abseiling into the back of the zawn and shorter traverse and shorter traverse left from boulders A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Waterfall Cove, Achill Badger Slabs'''

[[Image:Achill7.jpg|800px]]

The west facing side of Waterfall Cove is a series of slabs and arêtes. The right most slab is the most extensive and has a gently sloping platform (tidal in part) at its base. The lower right portion of the slab is recessed and there is a cave left of this. Stakes allow an abseil to the platform at this cave and access to routes 9-18.

(61). '''9. Funnel Web, HS (4a) 30m ''' This climb takes a line up the large slab left of Achill Badger, a poor and loose route. Start in corner on right of slab, up this for 5 meters to obvious horizontal crack, traverse left to slab edge, up edge of slab until poor rock pushes you right, up middle of slab to finish. Carl Maddox, Maurice J. Dixon 2007

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(62). '''10. The Fox * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the corner just left of Achill Badger, up corner to overhang traverse right under overhang to finish as for Achill Badger Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, Dec. 1999

(63). '''11. Achill Badger ** S (4a) 25m ''' A quality, well protected route. Makes a route up the left edge of the main slab. Follow flakey cracks immediately right of the slab edge. Finish up wide crack. T.McQueen, A.Lyttle, 1985 '''12.Alternate Start 1 ** S (4a) 8m''' Climb the left trending crack to join the original route near the arête. '''13.Alternate Start 2 * HVS (5a) 12m'''
Climb thin crack up centre of of slab to horizontal break, Traverse left to original route.

(64). '''13b. BRAVE NEW WORLD E4 5c.'''
Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab and continue straight up the blank slab. Bold. Diarmuid Duggan March 2002.

(65). '''13a. Juraj HVS (5a/b) 28m''' A continuation to this route was added by climbing a series of short grooves and horizontal breaks to the right of Achill Badgeer. 
Juraj Georgievsky Carl Maddox May 2008.

Safest belay option for routes 10-18 is to leave abseil in situ and belay at top lip of slab/ cliff, below loose top out

(66). '''14. The Myth of Trust ** HVS (5a) 30m ''' Start 6 meters right of Achill Badger and climb cracks slanting rightwards to the edge of the main slab. Lay off arête (Bold crux) to gain a wide leftwards slanting crack. Up this and finish as for Achill Badger T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(67). '''15. Atlantic City * VS (4c) 30m''' Start in the cave. Surmount jammed block at back of cave. Traverse right to recessed slab and up to overhung niche. Through overhang (crux) to small ledge. Continue up short corner crack, move left and finish by crack in wall left of small slab (Belay here before grass is reached)
T.McQueen, 1985

(68). '''15a. Exiting the Womb** VS (4c) 30m''' An entertaining, unique and varied route. Start as for Atlantic City. After surmounting the jammed block go left instead of right, squeezing yourself between the ever-encroaching walls of the cave until you emerge into the daylight at the bottom of the wide crack of The Myth of Trust. Finish as for this route or go right about 7m below the top, following a line of 3 parallel hairline cracks (HVS 5a).
R.Creagh, C.Hogan 25/06/12

(69). '''16. Sapphire * HVS (5a) 30m''' Start below centre of recessed slab (tide permitting), initial hard moves to gain slab. Directly up slab to overhang. Committing move to gain jug and pull up to upper slab. Easy fault right then left to ledges. Horizontally left to finish as for Atlantic City T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(70). '''17. Hail Stone Corner S (4a) 25m''' The corner which marks the right end of the recessed slab. Traverse right beneath overhanging blacks near the top to finish at arête. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(71). '''18. Escape Route Diff 30m''' The easiest route up cracks and blocks right of hailstone corner to a breech left of a small pinnacle. Scramble up arête to finish. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Dingo Area'''
Facing the open sea around the arête is a square non tidal ledge. In good weather this is a real suntrap. It can be reached by traversing round from Waterfall cove, down climbing Touché Turtle or by abseil

(72). '''19. Touché Turtle * Diff 30m''' Climb the scoop just left of Suntrap ledge. Continue up easy angled corner to arête. Up this as for Escape Route. T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1985

(73). '''20. Levon Helm * E1 (5c) 30m''' Climbs the corner at the back of suntrap ledge. Technical moves to gain groove, finish more easily up right edge of slab T.McQueen, A. Macfarlane, 1989

'''Alt finish, Place protection on right of slab, traverse left 2 meters to finish directly up centre of slab (5b)'''

(74). '''21. Gleaning the Crumbs * HVS (5b) 20m''' From the right edge of suntrap ledge. Up short rightwards leading slab then back left through overhang. Easy ground to top. A. Macfarlane, T.McQueen, 1989

(75). '''22. Dingo ** S (4a) 25m''' Traverse right from ledge across a chimney to the next wall. Take the crack up the middle of this wall. Excellent situations for the grade, maybe safer to abseil into hanging belay A. Macfarlane, 1989

(76). '''23. Indian Summer * S (4a) 25m''' Takes the arête forming the right edge of Dingo wall. Traverse or abseil to hanging belay just left of arête. Traverse right to arête, up arête (No protection for 4 meters) and continue direct to easier ground above Carl Maddox, Ben Siddal, Oct, 2003

'''East of Waterfall Cove, Achill Slab and Fair Dinkum Area'''

The next two routes start from a platform beneath an intimidating overhanging wall right of Dingo. The platform can be reached by abseil or by down climbing Achill Slab.

(77). '''24. Achill Slab S (3c) 20m''' The slab that forms the left boundary of the large overhanging wall and lies to the right of the wall Dingo is situated on A. Macfarlane, 1989

(78). '''25. Zawn Chorus HVS (4c) 25m''' Take a slanting right to left line of weakness which becomes a chimney. At 12 meters traverse left across a well hung slab (often damp) to exposed ledge. Up sandy corner above, finishing out left of capstone. Poor rock at top needs to be cleaned (the last 2m were top roped) T. McQueen, P. McClenaghan, 1989

Right of the overhanging wall is a smooth, bulging arête and then a deep cut chimney/ zawn. Right again are three routes. These can be easily reached by descending gentle slabs further to the east and traversing round. This is around 50m east of Waterfall Cove

(79). '''26. Achilldorightly * V.Diff 15m''' The stepped corner 6m right of the deep cut chimney/ zawn. Take the line of least resistance and finish entertainingly wide chimney T.McQueen, A. Lyttle, 1983 '''Direct finish, VS (4c) 15m. Up stepped corner to ledge, straight up from ledge through overhanging corner/ crack. Short but strenuous'''
Barry Smith Carl Maddox 1999

(80). '''27. Fair Dinkum * E2 (5b) 15m'''

A thin crack splitting the steep wall 2m right of Achilldorightly. Sustained quality climbing , small wires for protection A.Macfarlane, D. Stelfox. 1989

(81). '''28. Billy the Fish HVS (5a) 15m''' The right to left slanting crack line (often damp) 2m right of Fair Dinkum. Try to ignore the two large ledges leading out rightwards T.McQueen, A. McQueen, 1989

==Mweelaun Rocks==
'''(West of Waterfall Cove)'''

These crags are located east of Waterfall cove/ Achilldorightly wall. Across from the rock platform from Achilldorightly wall is a small zawn with an east facing wall. A few short easy routes can be found here. 

Further east again is a deep cut, narrow zawn, OS Map 30, GR 586041. The east facing wall of this zawn has steep walls, with potential for some harder routes.

The west facing wall, with dark coloured rock, has a slab section at its base, with a distinct overhang at 2/3 Height. The next set of routes are on this wall Approach- Abseil into high tide mark, beneath overhangs, all routes start from here. Routes described from left/right

[[Image:Achill8.jpg|800px]]

'''Above, Mweelaun Rocks'''

(82). '''1.Rosco V Diff 12m''' Traverse left from slabs, crossing Uncle Jess and well featured wall, straight up to ledge, finish easily. Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(83). '''2.Uncle Jess Mod 10m ''' Obvious line of weakness left of overhangs. Trend up and left in groove to ledge. Then rightwards in groove to finish. Carl Maddox, Solo, 12/06/09

(84). '''3.PG Tips * S (4a) 10m''' Start on left side of slab, up quartz crack to overhang and crack. Up this (crux) to finish
Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

(85). '''4.Boss Hog * VS (4c) 10m''' Climbs the right side of slab, following thin quartz crack. At overhang go straight up (crux) to finish Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

(86). '''5.Sand Fly * S (4a) 11m''' Start to right of overhangs, in V. Up shallow crack to head wall. Move right then left through head wall on excellent holds Paddy Gethings, 12/06/09

==Carrickmore Point==

West again of Mweelaun rocks/ zawn is a small rocky peninsula, which marks the end of the main cliffs section. This area has a short, steep wall, with a partly tidal platform (platform can be slippy in places). The left wall is steep with an undercut base. It has a distinct left trending crack, a steep vertical crack and overhangs to the right

[[Image:Achill10.jpg|800px]]

'''Left Photo, Mweelaun rocks in foreground, with left wall and Carrickmore point behind'''

[[Image:Achill9.jpg|800px]]

''' Above, Carrickmore Point'''

(87). '''a1.Fred Flintstone * HS (4a/b) 15m''' A nice climb, with some fiddly Cam placements. Start on the far left of the steep wall, by the large left sloping roof. Pull up steeply on good holds to gain the obvious horizontal foot crack. Traverse entire wall to overhang, step round this and over the void to finish. Bring a good range of Cams to keep you afloat. Carl Maddox, Lisa Kennedy 25/09/13

(88). '''1.Daisy Duke ** HS (4b) 10m''' Take the central crack straight up the steep left wall, crossing several horizontal breaks (cams useful). A great little route, easier than it looks Carl Maddox, 12/06/09

Just right of the left wall is a pebbled slab

(89). '''2.Pebbles Diff 9m''' Start at the lowest point of the slab, straight up, taking care with the pebbles Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

Right again of pebble dashed slab is a steep pebble wall

At the end of the peninsula is a short 8m wall, of very weathered rock, several lines can be tackled between mod-diff standard

(90). '''3.Barney Rubble Mod 8m''' Straight up brown wall to highly weathered finish Carl Maddox Solo, 12/06/09

MCI New Climbs (1993‐1995) records the following

The sea crag/cove is located about 100m west of Waterfall Cove, (GF583042), just off the road from Dooagh to Keem an area which was developed by Dawson Stelfox and friends in the 80's. Look for a pillar on the end of a short rock spur. Descend to the top of the main face to the right (looing seawards).There is huge potential of all grades here but good conditions are needed to climb some of these routes.

'''PEBBLEDASH PILLAR''' Diff 15m

Step across below belay (at low tide only) to scramble up to the top of the pillar.

Pat Rodgers (solo) Marie Arsonze (solo) 11/8/94

'''CLOCHETTE''' VS 10m

Access is by abseil to bottom of slab. Climb diamond shaped 60m slab from bottom corner to top corner on small pockets and edges. Two thirds of the way up step left to a small ledge for your hands (crux). Continue more easily to the top. Top roped prior to first ascent.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94

'''PERFECT BLUE''' VS

From the ledge at the base, climb directly up the centre of the slab, on excellent, rough, well protected rock.

T Taylor, M Baron, 13/4/1994.

'''LISDOONFARAWAY''' Diff 10m

Climb the corner to the left of '''CLOCHETTE.'''

Pat Rodgers (solo) 11/8/94.

'''HAMAC''' HS 17m

Start from recessed belay stance. Step out right. Continue up and diagonally right over ledges for about two thirds of the route then move diagonally left to finish at belay directly above start.

Pat Rodgers, Marie Arsonze, 11/8/94.

'''UNINTENTIONAL''' S 17m

Climb out left from recessed slab belay stance. Move up the deep crack and continue to the right to inish directly above start.

Pat Rodgers (solo) 17/9/94.

About 40m further west (GF581042) are two more routes on another little rock peninsula. Scramble down to the top of the climbs over large boulders. Speranza is situated to the right, the top of the climb in a saddle. Abseil to the bottom.

'''SPERANZA''' VS 12m

Start easily up the crack in the slightly overhanging wall. Move up and left on the ramp. Finish up the obvious short crack at the top of the ramp (crux).

Pat Rodgers, Kieran Wilson, 8/9/94.

The nest route is situated to the left of the peninsula about 50m from '''SPERANZA'''. Abseil down to a long narrow ledge just above high water mark.

'''ELEGANT ELEPHANT''' VD 12m

Climb the obvious crack to the right o the platform.

Kieran Wilson, Helen Bradley, Pat Rodgers, 9/9/94.

==SLIEVEMORE==

'''Diff 2 Routes'''

'''V Diff 2 Routes'''

'''Severe 5 Routes'''

'''VS 2 Routes'''

'''HVS 1 Route'''

==DUGORT SLABS==
The lowest two crags on the North West Flank of Slievemore Ridge, 15 mins. walk from Dugort Quay Road.

'''PIRATE''' 52m Diff Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74 Start 20m. left of the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag, the middle of the smooth white slab. 1. 15m. The slab to a short corner stance on the Quartz band. Belays. 2. 37m. Climb direct the pleasant rib above, stance on the easy way down. Good belays. 

'''MID CENTURY''' 66m V Diff 
Clare Sheridan, Joss Lynam (shared leads) and AFAS party 30.6.74. 
Start at the lowest point of the right hand side of the first crag. 
1. 38m. Climb the long slab to stance on big grass ledge. Belay at right hand end. 
2. 13m. Move left climb the wall to a short corner, mantleshelf onto the upper slab, stance on grass. Nut belay. 
3. 15m. Move right and ascend the slab to stance at blocks.
(The steep wall on pitch 2 can be climbed to the left of the belay at between severe and hard severe)

The second crag is separated from the first by an open gully. Scramble along rough ground below the crag until an obvious pink slab comes into view. This is:

'''PINKIE''' 35m Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start on a rib barely emerging from the heather, to the left, and below the slab. 
1. 25m. Climb onto the slab and go straight up to a big recess. 
2. 10m. Climb the wall on the right in a corner. 

Beyond Pinkie are a number of short slabs and corners of insufficient sustained interest to be worth recording. Near the right hand end of the crag is a vertical rib. This is:

'''SALAMANDER''' 22m Severe 4a 
Carl Maddox, Jason Ryan 11.05.08 
The obvious hanging slab half way between Pinkee and Production line. Scramble up grassy ladges to vegetated corner/ wall below and right of the clean hanging slab. (Abseil approach maybe easier). 
Move up and trend left on on vegetated rock to overhanging block, move left round block then step right to grass ledge. Traverse left along hugh block and crack to slab base. Directly up clean well featured slab to finish.

Right of Salamander and left of the rib start of Production line, is another hanging slab, with a large overhang at its base, the next climb starts below the right side of the slab and overhangs. Best approached by abseil.

'''AMPHIBIAN''' 20m Severe 4a (Possibly HS 4a due to bold section)
Carl Maddox, Neal McAloon 01.08.10 
Take the broken rock and vegetation just right of overhangs. A tricky and scruffy start leads straight to better climbing up the right side of slab. Drop a cam at base of slab and move boldly for six meters to horizontal break and easier climbing to top.

'''PRODUCTION LINE''' 28m V Diff 
Joss Lynam, Lesley Richardson. 15.6.75 
Start at the foot of the rib (the belay is higher up on the right. 
1. 20m. Climb up the series of big steps on the rib. Where the rib loses itself in the face, bridge up the corner and belay on the shelf above. Walk 12m. left along the shelf to the foot of a slab with an overlap to its right side. 
2. 8m. Climb the pleasant slab.

==FIRST PINNACLE BUTTRESS==

'''This is the big gable-ended crag halfway up the Slievemore Ridge from Dugort. It is best reached by climbing the ridge and then traversing in to the foot of the buttress. The most obvious point of reference is a white wall at about mid height on the western face.'''

'''GREAT WESTERN''' 130m VS N. Allen, Sheilagh Manning, M. McDonagh. 11.6.75 Start at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet, either scramble up grass ledges on the right or traverse the left side of a semi-detached block via. an awkward corner. 1. 15m. Climb a short steep corner, move left (right?) along a rake to stance on grass. Nut belay. 2. 30m. Step right onto the slab and make a long delicate traverse to a semi-cave below an overlap. Nut belay. 3. 30m. Move up and right onto a block, and climb leftwards to a good ledge below the prominent white wall. Climb a short corner on the left of the ledge, and the fine white wall to a good stance. Nut and piton belay. 4. 33m. Move right 3m. and climb the overlap and the short groove above, step left on grass and make a rising traverse to the right, to an obvious brown corner, climb this and step right at the top to a good stance. Piton belay below a big overlap. 5. 22m. Pad up the narrowing slab to the right and where the slab ends make a difficult mantle shelf. Ascend to the roof and traverse pleasantly left to finish up at a short steep wall, on the ridge.

'''CRUSADE''' 80m HVS Ken Higgs, (1) (2), Tom Ryan. 5.6.1977

The route below takes the obvious diagonal line of narrow ramps and slabs up the North face of the First Pinnacle Buttress and finishes up a steep corner high on the left side of the face. Start as for Great Western, i.e. at the foot of the nose where the north and west faces meet. 1. 45m - 4c. Climb leftwards up the ramp on the side of the semi-detached block, and across the top of a corner to a good stance and possible belay. (Great Western goes straight up from here). Move left on slab and pull around the corner. Descend slightly and step across groove to gain slab on left with difficulty. Move up to crack, and up this a few feet until possible to traverse left across wall to a good foot ledge below the leftward trending narrow slab (the slab is split by a thin crack). Climb slab and continue up narrow ramps to a grass ledge beneath a wide crack. Peg and spike belays. 2. 35m - 5b. Climb wide crack to top of block. Traverse left across block to corner. Move around left edge of corner and gain a narrow ramp on face. Move up this a few feet until possible to climb onto sloping ledge above (crux).Climb steep corner above ledge and pull out right and gain top with an awkward mantelshelf. Scramble up 6m. for a nut and peg belay.

'''Little Bitchitis''' 110m VS 4c

J. Tremayne, L. Gin - April 2018

1) Frst pitch as for crusade

2) 4c- 20m climb up the wide crack to the top of the block and arrange protection. From the top of the block make an airy traverse to the right. Continue more easily upwards to a large grass ledge and belay.

3) 3c - 30m climb upwards to below the head wall. Traverse leftwards below the headwall until you can pull around its far left edge. belay at the large blocks.

4) 15m climb easily up the slab to the top.

'''GRANUAILE''' 114m S Clare Sheridan, Bairbre Sheridan. 14.6.75 Start by scrambling to obvious crack below a dark overhanging groove, right of the high white wall, left of a large boulder with overhanging roof. 1. 36m. Climb crack and continue to below overhanging groove. Move left and around nose onto large slab. Belay at left (peg) (or up vegetated ramp). 2 18m. Climb short corner and continue up veg. for a few feet. Step right onto a white wall and climb to ledge (coincides with upper part of pitch (3) of Great Western). Nut belay below overhang. 3. 42m. Step up and left to surmount overhang and continue straight up on easier ground, bearing right round overhangs (loose blocks). Choice of belays. 4. 18m. Climb easily and directly to top.

'''Joss' Fault''' 62m S Joss Lynam, Bob Richardson (shared leads). 14.6.75 This goes up the rather obvious fault line which forms an incipient chimney in the nose about 20m. right of the white wall. Start at the foot of the fault. 1. 27m. Follow the line of the fault, mostly keeping to the right into a niche (pitch could be broken here). Climb up the slightly overhanging chimney above (crux) to a ledge on the left. Go up diagonally, right round the overhang to a terrace. Go up a further 4m. on vegetation to a wire chock belay. Beware of loose blocks on this pitch. 2. 35m. Climb the big slabby steps left of the impending wall. At about 20m. go left over a small wall into a big recess with an overhanging roof. Exit by the left wall and move up right to belays.

'''To the left of the First Pinnacle Buttress is a smaller buttress. Left of centre on this is a big corner formed between a steep slab and a somewhat overhanging wall. There is an overhang across the top of the slab. The climb goes up the layback crack in the corner, then traverses left to a narrow vertical crack in the slab.'''

'''NATASHA''' 30m VS Bob Richardson, Joss Lynam. 14.6.1975 1. 22m. Reach the foot of the layback crack with some difficulty. Layback up to big overhang (moss on slab). Chock runner. Make a slightly descending traverse to the crack. Climb the crack jamming (crux) and exit left to a big ledge. 2. 8m. Traverse left along grassy ledge and climb the easy corner by bridging.
<div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">'''BITCH OUT ROUTE'''** 30m E2 5c </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">George Ponsonby, Cillian O'Corrbui 25.5.2016 </div><div id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1464822885002_4956" dir="ltr">Goes up the obvious large corner formed by the slab and overhanging wall, using a large variety of climbing techniques. Climb the wide crack as for Natasha to the overhang. Continue up the overhang (sustained) to the top. Protection is perfect throughout. If cleaned, it is a potential 3 star route, though the grade could be reduced if new holds appear. </div>
'''Moving left again, from 'Natasha' approx 50m, is an obvious pinnacle with a massive fallen block at its peak, the next climb starts at the outwards face of the pinnacle, below a hanging , curving crack line.'''

'''SLITHER''' 20m HS 4b Clem Quinn, Carl Maddox. 14.3.14 1. 10m. 4a/b (Start right side of Pinnacle) Reach the foot of the curving hanging crack via large sloping ledges. From top of crack, make a high step up and left, the make a rising traverse on sloping ledges to large 'Gap' belay.

2. 10m. 4a/b Straight up to steep wall, then Traverse right, along exposed ledge to reach the inside of the pinnacle. Make a tricky traverse to reach the fallen block and pull steeply over this to finish.

'''Descent - Cross fallen block to exit.'''

'''Note:''' This route was climbed in drizzle, so wet holds and smears made the final grade hard to judge. 'Natsha' looks like a classic, steep line - hopefully a dry day on our next visit.

==SLIEVEMORE BUTTRESS==
At the head of the valley on the north face of Slievemore is a prominent pear-shaped slabby buttress 1 hr. from the road

'''THE SNEAKER''' 114m S 
N. Allen, Shelagh Manning, M, McDonough. 10.6.75 
Start directly below the summit of Slievemore, 15m up the left-hand bounding rake, at a cairn. (arrow on the slab) 
1. 39m. Step onto the slab, move up to an overlap, traverse right and climb a crack. Step right and make a rising traverse across the slabs to a stance below an obvious brown roof. Nut belays. 
2. 33m. Climb the corner above and enter the slabby corner. Move right on grass, cross a slab leftwards to regain the corner. Ascend this until a stance can be taken on the left, on a large block. 
3. 42m. Move up easier slab and grass above to a stance on easy ground. 100m. scramble to the right remains.

Updated guide: [[Media:Achill_Climbing_Guide_Mark_3.pdf]]