Irish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]

Fore

2025-04-30T16:42:55Z

Boardtc: Clarity/anchor edit

This small outcrop overlooks the village of Fore and its antiquities. 

'''Salvage''' 50ft. S. 
Start: 10ft. left of the edge of the outcrop, below the highest section of the rock. 
Up over the bulge and continue until it is possible to traverse left for 5ft. and escape back right above the main overhang. 
D. Walsh, S.R.Young. 3 June 1974. 

A low-level traverse was also made, of about 100ft. 

'''1974''' VS?4c?(practiced on toprope) Start as for Salvage,then from the bulge (overhead square block) move right under a flat roof (cams)to gain "the nose" of "the face"(small wire). Good holds in the horizontal break and more small wires overhead then tackle the main roof head-on with strenuous moves to top out taking care for loose rock. G.Masterson, L.Jameson, 6/5/2017.

'''1974 direct''' Vs/hvs? 
Both routes a tribute to the pioneers of this obscure little crag, start just right of "salvage" put on the blinders skip the bulge and head straight up over the main overhang and highest section of rock. G.Masterson, A.Egan, 23/5/2019.

[[File:fore1.jpg]]

'''Anchorite's Cell''' 12m s 4a 
start four meters left of salvage at a short overhanging corner, move right and up to another short corner, move right again just below the small roof and finish straight up. 
H. Hennessy, C. Seery 8/8/2010

'''Foreplay''' 12m vs 4b 
start one meter left of Anchorite's Cell, follow the crack to top. 
H.Hennessy 3/5/2010

'''The life of Reilly''' 12m HS 
Start one meter left of Foreplay. Follow the crack up to the obvious block. Continue straight up to top out between the hazel and hawthorn trees. HS 12m. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 8-6-2017

'''3'n'4(Fore)''' 12m VS 5a 
Start 3m left of foreplay. Step onto a good ledge and place first protection out right (offset nut). Layback move to gain better holds above (by small plant) progress quickly past this to rest point and 2nd piece of protection. Continue up and finish as for Wholly. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 2-6-2017

'''Wholly''' 12m HS 
Start 4m left of foreplay. Follow the left trending crack to 2/3 height then step out right to finish between 2 hazel trees. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 22-5-2017

'''A bit Presumptuous''' 12m HvS 4c 
Start 3m right of the left end of the crag under a small roof. Start on good holds to move up to the roof. Pull strenuously over the roof (crux, unprotected) to gain a good stance. (Rest and first gear) continue up and slightly right on decent holds to finish left of the holly trees. 
R.Lynch, R.O'Reilly 8-6-2017

'''Ancient Brambles Arête''' 12m V Diff 3c 
Start at the right end of the crag, 10M right of Salvage, and climb the Arête to a top pillar that can be slung. The Arête becomes more obvious as it's climbed. Tree chain anchor installed in 2024. 
T. Corcoran, C. Airton 20/6/2013

[[File:Ancient_brambles_arete_labelled.jpg]]

'''Immram''' (Diff) 
Start downhill from the main crag to the right of the gully. Dash through the jungle slinging trees for protection. Walk right along the tree-obscured grassy ledge placing gear overhead before tackling the "headwall". Top out to a massive ash tree. 
L. Smith, G. Masterson 7/7/17 

[[File:Immram_wiki.png|alt=|1057x1057px]]

'''Zardos speaks''' M.severe 
Start 1M left of anc'brambles arête,climb to a small roof and offset nut placement,move right underneath the roof and straight up to a corner(nut placements),bridge up the corner and move left to another corner,finish up this on good holds but with little protection (small cam!?)could be severe. 
G.Masterson L.Smith 8/7/2017 

[[File:IMG-20170719-WA0006.jpg|alt=|1067x1067px]]

'''Road to ruin''' Severe 
Scramble up the grass to the broken stump of an elder tree and arrange a small wire out to the left,climb up awkwardly around the stump and begin,bridge,crimp and jam up the cracked corner over a small roof,move right and continue up the"flint blade"arěte on to higher ground,mixture of large hexes and small to medium wires,rope folded to make two,generally good protection and holds but as always for this type of rock take care for loose sections. G.Masterson K.McCourt 14/4/19 

'''Flint blade''' V diff 
Climb the stepped ridge on the far right of the outcrop 1m to the right of "road to ruin",a mildly tricky start leads to a couple of bold but enjoyable steps upwards toward slightly steeper ground and better gear,finish up the face and arěte on good holds and good gear(small to medium wires)nice climbing on interesting rock,but as always take care for loose bits G.Masterson F.Gallagher 18/4/19 [[File:Temporary topo.jpg|alt=|1324x1324px]]

Glendalough

2021-08-12T21:49:22Z

Boardtc: deleted space

[http://www.mountaineering.ie/shop/ Printed guidebook available here]

Glendalough (The Valley of the Two Lakes) is a glacial valley of great beauty, deeply cut into the eastern flanks of the Wicklow mountains. The valley sides are very steep with cliffs in many places. Most of these consist of friable schist but beyond the Upper Lake the rock changes to granite with the climbing buttresses visible on the right-hand or south-facing flank of the valley above the boulder slopes, as one travels west on the valley track. Climbing is concentrated in three areas as follows: (i) Twin Buttress: This is the main crag, steep and prominent, clearly visible near the upper western end of the glen. It is split down the centre by a darkened recess, usually a double watercourse, into East and West Wings. (ii) The Upper Cliffs: These are at a slightly higher level and to the east or right of Twin Buttress. They consist largely of a discontinuous line of slabs which are prone to seepage and often heavily vegetated. (iii) Hobnail Buttress: This is a minor buttress just below the right-hand end of the Upper Cliffs and becomes visible on the right when leaving the last trees on the valley floor.

=====APPROACH & CRAG LAYOUT=====
Glendalough is about 50 km from Dublin and can be reached by following the N11 as far as Kilmacanoge from where the R755 is followed through Roundwood to Laragh before taking the road westwards into the valley to the car-park just below the Upper Lake. There is a regular bus service (St. Kevin's Bus) to the lower lake of Glendalough from Dublin which is also served by the Wicklow Local Link 183 Wicklow to Glendalough route, using Wicklow station this local link service facilitates much earlier arrival and much later departure times than the former.

To reach the crags follow the track along the right-hand side of the Upper Lake. At the head of the lake Hobnail Buttress is the first prominent feature to come into view below the near end of the Upper Cliffs. To reach it, follow the zig-zags of an old mining track which is reached by following the edge of the last trees on the right.

If heading for Twin Buttress or the Upper Cliffs continue past the derelict mine buildings on the right of the Glenealo River to the zig-zag path at the head of the glen. Leave the zig-zags where the track turns left for the second time and follow a well worn trail, waymarked by red paint blotches, to the foot of a small outcrop called Acorn Buttress. This is Base Camp below Twin Buttress and is reached in about 45 minutes from the car-park.

The Upper Cliffs are usually approached from here by heading up diagonally right in the direction of the large whitish slab of Lifeline, clearly visible from below.

Route descriptions begin on the left side of Far West Buttress and continue in a left to right direction to the Main Face, Acorn Buttress, East Wing Lower Tier, East Wing Upper Tier, Upper Cliffs and Hobnail Buttress.

TWIN BUTTRESS This is the centrepiece of climbing interest in Glendalough. The climbs are steep, clean and generally free of vegetation. Lines a re usually fairly direct, taking corners or cracks with good protection. The faces catch the sun and dry quickly after rain and climbing is possible at almost any time of the year.

The central waterfalls separate Twin Buttress into West Wing to the left and East Wing to the right.

The West Wing consists of the Far West Buttress which is westfacing and out of sight of Base Camp and, to the right and around the arête, the south-facing Main Face, visible from Base Camp. To the left the Main Face is quite featured and disjointed. Its central feature is a steep, narrow sweep of exposed and relatively featureless rock while to the right it breaks into steep and even overhanging corners and walls. The routes on this imposing monolith, variously long, airy, delicate and strenuous, embody all of the finest elements of climbing in Glendalough. The East Wing is directly above Base Camp and Acorn Buttress. It is traversed at half-height by tree-covered ledges. Routes on the Lower Tier give access to these ledges. The best of the climbing is found on the walls above these ledges on the Upper Tier.

Descent is possible, but not easy, from the top of Twin Buttress as follows: 1. Abseil down various routes. The shortest of these is Expectancy which requires only a doubled 50m rope but care should be exercised on the tricky scramble further down after the abseil. ********* Note that the 'tricky scramble' mentioned above is exposed and has become very eroded. There has been at least one nasty accident (full helicopter etc. rescue). It is advisable to avoid this potentially lethal scramble by making a long abseil (double ropes)from the top of expectancy down the gully to safe ground.******** 2. From the top of the East Wing follow a short track east down a slight depression to the edge of the cliff. Descend a 2 metre rock step and continue east with one short descent and ascent to a grassy gully. Go down this eastwards to the base of Witality Slab and the slope running down to Base Camp. Care should be taken as the start may be difficult to find and the descent down the steep section can be slippy and dangerous in wet weather. 3. Follow a broad heathery rib just west of the shallow gully near the upper left-hand side of Far West Buttress. This is very awkward.

<display_map zoom="14">
53.00937, -6.383283~Glendalough Twin Buttress & Upper Cliffs
53.008698, -6.372983~Glendalough Hobnail Buttress
</display_map>

==Links to route descriptions==

[[Glendalough_West_Wing_&_Main_Face|Glendalough West Wing & Main Face]]

[[Glendalough_Acorn_Buttress_&_East_Wing|Glendalough Acorn Buttress & East Wing]]

[[Glendalough_Upper_Cliffs_&_Hobnail_Buttress|Glendalough Upper Cliffs & Hobnail Buttress]]

==New Routes==

"Deviation" may be "Vortex" which was badly described in the old guidebook. Comment or removal welcome. '''Deviation''' HVS 5b Essentially a variation on "Vortex". Climb "Acorn Crack" as far as the jammed chockstone and step out right onto the vertical wall - reaching for a fingery ledge and mini-jug situated above the left of two thin parallel cracks (crux) A quick sling over the mini-jug will prevent a potentially hazardous fall. A semi-dynamic move from here gains another good hold and the large ledge above. Cross over the chimney of "Inferno" and finish as for "Vortex". C. Mogensen, P. Carolan. 18. Oct. 2008.

"Patash" may be the variation described in "Provo" Comment or removal welcome. '''Patash''' HS 4b Takes the thin crack between "Provo" and "Facilis Descensus" - finishing to the left of the block at the top. P. Carolan, C. Mogensen 18. Oct. 2008.

Fore

2021-03-29T10:19:13Z

Boardtc:

This small outcrop overlooks the village of Fore and its antiquities. 

'''Salvage''' 50ft. S. 
Start: 10ft. left of the edge of the outcrop, below the highest section of the rock. 
Up over the bulge and continue until it is possible to traverse left for 5ft. and escape back right above the main overhang. 
D. Walsh, S.R.Young. 3 June 1974. 

A low-level traverse was also made, of about 100ft. 

'''1974''' VS?4c?(practiced on toprope) Start as for Salvage,then from the bulge (overhead square block) move right under a flat roof (cams)to gain "the nose" of "the face"(small wire). Good holds in the horizontal break and more small wires overhead then tackle the main roof head-on with strenuous moves to top out taking care for loose rock. G.Masterson, L.Jameson, 6/5/2017.

'''1974 direct''' Vs/hvs? 
Both routes a tribute to the pioneers of this obscure little crag, start just right of "salvage" put on the blinders skip the bulge and head straight up over the main overhang and highest section of rock. G.Masterson, A.Egan, 23/5/2019.

[[File:fore1.jpg]]

'''Anchorite's Cell''' 12m s 4a 
start four meters left of salvage at a short overhanging corner, move right and up to another short corner, move right again just below the small roof and finish straight up. 
H. Hennessy, C. Seery 8/8/2010

'''Foreplay''' 12m vs 4b 
start one meter left of Anchorite's Cell, follow the crack to top. 
H.Hennessy 3/5/2010

'''The life of Reilly''' 12m HS 
Start one meter left of Foreplay. Follow the crack up to the obvious block. Continue straight up to top out between the hazel and hawthorn trees. HS 12m. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 8-6-2017

'''3'n'4(Fore)''' 12m VS 5a 
Start 3m left of foreplay. Step onto a good ledge and place first protection out right (offset nut). Layback move to gain better holds above (by small plant) progress quickly past this to rest point and 2nd piece of protection. Continue up and finish as for Wholly. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 2-6-2017

'''Wholly''' 12m HS 
Start 4m left of foreplay. Follow the left trending crack to 2/3 height then step out right to finish between 2 hazel trees. 
R.O'Reilly, R.Lynch 22-5-2017

'''A bit Presumptuous''' 12m HvS 4c 
Start 3m right of the left end of the crag under a small roof. Start on good holds to move up to the roof. Pull strenuously over the roof (crux, unprotected) to gain a good stance. (Rest and first gear) continue up and slightly right on decent holds to finish left of the holly trees. 
R.Lynch, R.O'Reilly 8-6-2017

'''Ancient Brambles Arête''' 12m V Diff 3c 
Start at the right end of the crag, 10M right of Salvage, and climb the Arête to a top pillar that can be slung. The Arête becomes more obvious as it's climbed and would be more aesthetic with some gardening. Bad brambles at the top meant an abseil off the pillar leaving gear in situ. 
[http://skinnyword.blogspot.ie/2013/07/ancient-brambles-arete-lost-ring_3.html blog story] 
T. Corcoran, C. Airton 20/6/2013

[[File:Ancient_brambles_arete_labelled.jpg]]

'''Immram''' (Diff) 
Start downhill from the main crag to the right of the gully. Dash through the jungle slinging trees for protection. Walk right along the tree-obscured grassy ledge placing gear overhead before tackling the "headwall". Top out to a massive ash tree. 
L. Smith, G. Masterson 7/7/17 

[[File:Immram_wiki.png|alt=|1057x1057px]]

'''Zardos speaks''' M.severe 
Start 1M left of anc'brambles arête,climb to a small roof and offset nut placement,move right underneath the roof and straight up to a corner(nut placements),bridge up the corner and move left to another corner,finish up this on good holds but with little protection (small cam!?)could be severe. 
G.Masterson L.Smith 8/7/2017 

[[File:IMG-20170719-WA0006.jpg|alt=|1067x1067px]]

'''Road to ruin''' Severe 
Scramble up the grass to the broken stump of an elder tree and arrange a small wire out to the left,climb up awkwardly around the stump and begin,bridge,crimp and jam up the cracked corner over a small roof,move right and continue up the"flint blade"arěte on to higher ground,mixture of large hexes and small to medium wires,rope folded to make two,generally good protection and holds but as always for this type of rock take care for loose sections. G.Masterson K.McCourt 14/4/19 

'''Flint blade''' V diff 
Climb the stepped ridge on the far right of the outcrop 1m to the right of "road to ruin",a mildly tricky start leads to a couple of bold but enjoyable steps upwards toward slightly steeper ground and better gear,finish up the face and arěte on good holds and good gear(small to medium wires)nice climbing on interesting rock,but as always take care for loose bits G.Masterson F.Gallagher 18/4/19 [[File:Temporary topo.jpg|alt=|1324x1324px]]

File:Ancient brambles arete labelled.jpg

2021-03-29T10:17:36Z

Boardtc: