===Introduction===
A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately for the South most climbs there are a few parking spots at the national school however on school days it's best to park in the public beach car park and cut up through the fields.
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]
 
[[File:Fanore.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.[[File:Ice cream parlour.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px]]

'''ICEBURGER *''' (1) 14m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

'''CHOCK A LOT *''' (2) 14m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

'''SPRINKLES''' (3) 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start just left of '''CHOCK''' and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

'''I SCREAM''' (4) 10m VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start 5m left of '''SPRINKLES''' at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

'''COHEN''' (5) 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.
[[File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg|thumb|600x600px|Calling Dawn|alt=|center]]

'''CALLING DAWN''' 12m Diff

''Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.''

Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.
[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
[[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b

''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''

Start 3m left of '''ELF ON A SHELF''' at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab and finish up '''ELF ON A SHELF.'''

'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.''

Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.

'''Cathair Bheannach''' S

''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''

The crack to the right of Elf.

'''RODEO DRIVE''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.

'''PET SOUNDS''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.

100m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.
[[File:Fanore main crag Ap 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''SLACK TIDE''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

'''COME TO THE COAST''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.

'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

'''BAYWATCH''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

'''THE HOFF''' 10m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''THE WALRUS''' 10m S

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand groove line in the next bay, veer right at the grassy topped bulge, finish leftwards up the easier wide crack/corner.

'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.
[[File:Liner.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CRUISE LINER''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.

The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.

[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

'''STRAIT TO GLORY''' HVS

'' Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

'''HORMUZ CRISIS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

'''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''' S

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

[[File:ST.JPG|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''NOT SO STRAIT''' VD

'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

'''SIRENS TAIL''' VS

'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.
[[File:HE.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]'''HIGHER EDUCATION''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, unseconded 19/7/2024.''

Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.

File:ST.JPG

2026-04-26T20:05:10Z

Barry watts:

Fanore

2026-04-26T20:04:18Z

Barry watts: /* Introduction */

===Introduction===
A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately for the South most climbs there are a few parking spots at the national school however on school days it's best to park in the public beach car park and cut up through the fields.
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]
 
[[File:Fanore.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.[[File:Ice cream parlour.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px]]

'''ICEBURGER *''' (1) 14m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.

'''CHOCK A LOT *''' (2) 14m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.

'''SPRINKLES''' (3) 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start just left of '''CHOCK''' and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.

'''I SCREAM''' (4) 10m VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start 5m left of '''SPRINKLES''' at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).

'''COHEN''' (5) 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''

Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.

200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.
[[File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg|thumb|600x600px|Calling Dawn|alt=|center]]

'''CALLING DAWN''' 12m Diff

''Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.''

Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.
[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
[[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b

''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''

Start 3m left of '''ELF ON A SHELF''' at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab and finish up '''ELF ON A SHELF.'''

'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.''

Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.

'''Cathair Bheannach''' S

''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''

The crack to the right of Elf.

'''RODEO DRIVE''' S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.

'''PET SOUNDS''' VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.

100m to the right/South there is the main buttress.
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.''

Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.
[[File:Fanore main crag Ap 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]

'''SLACK TIDE''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs.

'''COME TO THE COAST''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''

In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it.

'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above.

'''BAYWATCH''' 10m S

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand crack line in the bay.

'''THE HOFF''' 10m HS 4b

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.
[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]
'''THE WALRUS''' 10m S

''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the left hand groove line in the next bay, veer right at the grassy topped bulge, finish leftwards up the easier wide crack/corner.

'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''

Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.
[[File:Liner.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''CRUISE LINER''' 10m VD

''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''

Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.

The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South.

[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|500x500px]]

'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

'''STRAIT TO GLORY''' HVS

'' Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

'''HORMUZ CRISIS''' VD

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

'''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''' S

''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''

'''NOT SO STRAIT''' VD

'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

'''SIRENS TAIL''' VS

'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''

The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.
[[File:HE.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]'''HIGHER EDUCATION''' HS 4b

''Barry Watts, unseconded 19/7/2024.''

Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.

2026-02-18T17:34:53Z

Barry watts:

As you approach the summit of Mullach Mor from the South this crag is located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the summit cairn. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading Northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.

The crag faces South-South West and is broken into four areas. The crag looks onto Father Ted’s house under the cliffs to the West (Slievenaglasa).
[[File:AERIEL VIEW 1.png|center|thumb|600x600px]]

The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of features although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10m or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilley's Chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas, in particular at Dougal's and Mrs Doyle's Buttress (Careful Now!)

There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.

To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mullach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).

To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladie drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretative centre.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to nearby Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

The nearby Lough Avalla farm have a nice tea room that is open on weekends.
[[File:Area view.png|center|thumb|830x830px|alt=]]
 

==LE FRENCH QUARTER==

This is the west facing area of the crag whose initial climbers included a number of French. The crag is about 20m at its highest point. The rock in general is good

[[File:Mm left hand.jpg|center|File:Mm left hand.jpg]] [[File:MMFrenchQtr2.JPG|center|MMFrenchQtr2.JPG]]

'''1. GAULOISES''' 8m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the left crack, left of the prow before the crag loses height. Gain the ledge at 1m and continue up the steep crack which eases off passing two small ledges.

'''2. LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' 8m D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the groove-chute 6m left of Toulouse or not Toulouse

'''LES PROLONGATIONS''' 15m S 4a ''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 19th May 2018. ''3m right of '''LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' a thin crack slants diagonally leftwards, step off a boulder and follow the crack to reach a small ledge and large holds, gain a second ledge and trend rightwards up a crack passing a third ledge to the top.

'''3. TOULOUSE OR NOT TOULOUSE''' 10m HVS 5a ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the left facing corner to the right of '''LES''' '''PROLONGATIONS''' with a fallen block at its base, just before the crag loses height. Climb gingerly past the hollow flake to a pod and up the steep corner crack above.

'''4. A CLASS TWO RELIC''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Start 3m right of Toulouse, Climb some thin cracks and finish up the steep crack-groove.

'''5. HENRY LE BÂTARD''' 13m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes an eliminate line between Class 2 Relic & Lucky Luke, step onto the blank slab, traverse left to Class 2 relic crack, up this for 3m until level with the ledge. Traverse right along the horizontal break, gain and follow the vertical crack to the top.

'''6. LUCKY LUKE''' 15m D ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 22nd June 2010. ''Take the crack 3m right of class two relic, this forms the left hand end of the big alcove which is left of the Chauffeur prow. Follow the crack to the top taking care with some loose rock higher up. Worthwhile for the grade.

'''7. Scramble''' 15m Mod Easy ascent in bay directly to left of Chauffer.

'''8. CHAUFFEUR''' * 15m V.Diff ''Conor Warner (solo), 8th April 2000. ''Follow the centre of prominent prow to the top. Good easy route.

[[File:ToD.jpg|center|File:ToD.jpg|500x500px]]

'''10. TENTACLES OF DOOM''' 15m S/HS 4a/4b ''Eoin O’Neill, James Flanagan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes a line up the right hand side of the chauffeur prow, there are two obvious leftward trending cracks at half height, start below these and climb with sustained interest past them for the first 8m, or pass the blank section by heading left to the arete, continue on finishing as for chauffeur, a good route.

'''9. LE HANDBALL''' * 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Take the obvious crack ramp system where the protruding prow joins the main cliff, steep to start, at the grassy ledge finish up the clean crack on your left which is right of the bush.

'''11. JOE LE TAXI''' 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Takes the next groove right of LE HANDBALL. Start under an overhang a thin starting corner brings easier ground and some squeaky holds before the grassy ledge is reached (mind the large hollow flake on the left), Finish as for LE HANDBALL.

'''12. PAROCHIAL PURSUITS''' * 15m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''Takes the shallow corner groove between JOE LE TAXI and A CASE OF.... Start at the large detached block, a bouldering move leads to the top or alternately go round the back and scramble to the top of the block. climb the shallow corner groove above with a slight deviation onto the ramp on the left about half way up.

'''13. A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY''' * 12m VS 4c ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the start of St. Etienne into the niche, long step left onto a sloping wall and continue straight up this wall to the grassy ledge above.

'''14. ST. ETIENNE *''' 12m VS 4c ''Cyril Blachon, Conor Warner, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''4m left of the large tree left of Paris-Match. Up a short layback corner to a small ledge and up the crack straight above to the grassy ledge above. Good route.

'''15. ST. ETIENNE BY-PASS''' * 12m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, John O'Connor, May 2000. ''As for St. Etienne but at the ledge stand on the block swing up right onto grassy ledge, ascend the rectangular block to another grassy ledge, finish up the left facing corner crack. Another worth while route.

'''16. LA CHALEUR DU SOLEIL''' 15m HVS 5a ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the crack/wall left of tree left of Paris-Match, to a small ledge on the left. Pull through the bulge to a grassy ledge and finish more easily to the top.

'''17. LA PASSION DE ST TIBULUS''' 20m S 3c ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 11th April 2011. ''Climbs the obvious pillars left of the Paris Match bay. Start up the chimney (formed by the detatched pillar) immediately right of the tree, from the top of the pinnacle follow good cracks over several ledges to the top.

'''18. LE 'S' HOOK''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Start in the left facing corner, opposite from Paris-Match, under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Hand traverse away left from the thuggery above and pull into the more amenable crack line 2m left of the corner. Up this crack and to a groove above left and follow this to finish.

'''19. MRS DOYLE'S MUFFINS''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start in the left corner under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Layback the crack (excellent gear) and pull through to easier ground above.

'''20. GO ON GO ON GO ON''' * 20m E5 6a ''Kev Power, Squib Cubbon, October 2006. ''Start as for Mrs Doyle's Muffins. At the stance below the start of the layback place big cams and then commit out the right hand crack line. Powerful moves (crux) lead Northwards to a steep corner.
[[File:MullachMor_history_008.jpg|alt=|first ascent of '''PARIS-MATCH'''|thumb|1024x1024px|center]]

'''21. PARIS-MATCH''' ** 20m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''An excellent route, 12m left of the corner (Le Guillotine) there is an alcove with an overhang. The right hand weakness/crack is climbed by the hand crack in the slab up to a ledge. Arrange protection (small nuts), and bridge and finger jam up the blank corner to a large flat hold on your left and then trending up via the groove above. Belay at the very top, re cleaned October 2025.

'''22. Project''' 20m The direct start to "Your Mother's Snickers" via the 'tear drop' rock to the right of Paris Match has been climbed on top rope at 5c.

'''23. FATHER JACK'S CRACK''' * 20m E3 5c ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''This climb starts in the corner just right of Paris Match. Climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack which is climbed direct to the top. Thin on gear but enough to keep you going.

'''24. YOUR MOTHER'S SNICKERS''' 20m HS 4c ''Eoin Fitzgerald, Nigel Callender, 1st May 2000. ''This climb starts in the second corner right of Paris-Match. Start in the corner and climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack, traverse 3m left to the arête and up to the ledge. Follow the corner crack on the right and step around right to avoid the top loose block. Trend to the left to finish the route.

'''25. PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' 18m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Takes the obvious shallow corner 3m left of the Guillotine passing a small ledge with a bush at two thirds height. Start the crack with some difficulty which soon relents when large holds on the right wall come into reach. The final steep corner crack above yields to good holds on the right which lead up and right to a ledge.

'''26. LE GUILLOTINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 8th April 2000. ''At south end of the French Quarter and 3m right of '''PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' there is a shallow corner starting with a disjointed slab. Climb this to the offwidth and onwards to the second horizontal break line; move right onto the arête and up to the grassy ledge. Finish up the right hand side corner. Be careful with the rock, large friends needed.

==FATHER TED’S CRAG==

The description of this crag starts on the far left of the south-facing crag. The first bay of the crag is marked by large boulders and trees.

'''27. BISHOP BRENNAN'S BUM''' * 15m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 14th July 2011. ''The fist crack on the left hand side of the bay, Start at ground level and grapple the sickle shaped jamming crack which straightens, widens and eventually delivers you onto a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack as for the upper section of Le Guillotine. Strenuous and painful on your hands (think about taping up or use a pair of old cycling gloves), large cams and hexes will ensure a well protected ascent.

'''28. ARSE''' * 15m E1/2 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start below steep parallel cracks. Step up and right to gain right hand crack and up this to jug. Bypass the ivy choked pod treading lightly on the flakes to the left.
[[File:M M.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]
'''29. FECK''' * 15m E3 6a ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''On the right hand side of the bay is a thin cracked wall. Climb up the wall using RP's for protection.

'''30. GRIFFINS ARETE''' 14m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Halfway between FECK and RAM'S HEAD is an arête above large boulders. Start a few m right of the arete, a technical first move on the blank slab onto a narrow ledge and up the arête to the top.

'''31. Gospel''' 14m The left facing corner to the right of Griffin's Arete has been top roped at 5b.

'''33. SPIDERBABY''' 18m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 11th April 2011. ''Follows the buttress 8m left of Rams Head and just rightbif the big tree where there is a shallow left facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) and follow cracks to the top passing several small ledges.

'''34. PONY TAIL EXPRESS''' 8m S 4b ''Elaine Ryan (solo), 8th April 2000. ''2m left of Ram’s Head there is a verticsl crack which ends at a horizontal break, climb this to the break, traverse 1m left and finish up the crack to the top.

'''35. RAM'S HEAD''' 8m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Conor Warner, 8th April 2000. ''This offwidth crack is located at front of the small buttress left of '''CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY'''. A difficult first move leads up into the offwidth. Climb the offwidth delicately to the top. The route name comes from the goat’s skull jammed in the crack.

'''36. CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY''' 8m Diff ''Danny Buckton (solo), 8th April 2000. ''The wide chimney at the right hand side of the Ram’s Head Buttress. Used as an ascent/descent.

'''37. BEACH PARTY''' * 12m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Start up the crack 5m right of Crilley’s Chimney. Climb the jamming crack to the tree. Gain a grassy ledge on your right and finish up the wall on your left through thoughtful moves.

'''38. SPICY WEDGES *''' 12m E3 5c ''Kev Power, Steve McMullan, October 2006. ''Start 8m right of beach party below the wide groove of confederacy. After a few metre's traverse left for 3m along white rock on good holds and gear. A long move (crux) leads to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

'''39. CONFEDERACY''' ** 12m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 22nd Jan 2000. ''Good climbing on sound rock, start at the wide groove (7m left of Jack’s Bottle) to a ledge on the left with a tree root and straight on up, re cleaned October 2025.

'''40. KIWI STEW (FATTY'S BANE)''' 12m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Danny Buckton, 8th April 2000. ''The thin crack about 1m right of Confederacy. Up to the ledge and straight up just right of Confederacy’s finish. Just right of this is a perfect finger crack, still unclimbed.

'''41. CHALK OR CHEESE''' * 13m HVS 5a ''Colm O'Ciara, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''Just left of Father Jack’s Bottle is a huge flake. Climb the flake to under the tree, traverse right to almost behind the bottle and then escape back up left. Great lay-backing. (this route was top roped directly to the top, Maeve Baxter 8/3/00)
[[File:MulachMor_March2011_009_preview.jpeg|alt=|thumb|800x800px|First ascent of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE'''|center]]
'''43. FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''The exposed free standing pinnacle can be climbed via a slab on the East side. Start from toe of pillar easily up onto detached flake and wide step up onto sound rock to the top of the pinnacle. Great photo opportunity.

5m uphill and right of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' there is....

==MRS. DOYLE'S BUTTRESS==

[[File:MM Doyle But.JPG|center|MM Doyle But.JPG|alt=|925x925px]] [[File:MM Doyle But2.JPG|center|MM Doyle But2.JPG|alt=|923x923px]]

'''44a&b. MY LOVELY HORSE ''' 12m S 4a-VS 4c ''Conor Warner (S variiation), June 2008. Barry Watts, Joe Connor (VS variation), April 2010. ''Take a line up the next clean buttress. Either start in the square cut vegetated gully on the far left (S) or take the inset corner (VS) crux past two ledges, head left to easier ground when holds run out near the top, easier ground is reached by a tricky but well protected mantelshelf.

'''45. YOUNG FELLA''' '''**''' 24m HS 4a/b ''Nigel Callender, Barry Watts, 22nd Jan 2000. ''The right hand side of Mrs. Doyle's is short corner and finger crack. Layback to crack and move right onto the slab. Follow the slab up to the centre of the buttress. Up a little easier to a ledge and from there continue very delicately up the left hand side face to the top. A worthwhile route.

'''46. TOO BIG FOR SMURFS''' 24m HVS 5b ''Colm O'Ciara, Maeve Baxter, 8th April 2000. ''The inset rib between Young Fella and Blood Right. Straight up the rib and over the slight overhang to the top of Young Fella’s slab. Finish right of Young Fella’s finish in the corner.

'''47. BLOOD RIGHT''' 24m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 22nd Jan 2000. ''This takes the groove 4m right of Young Fella. It starts thinly at first by using holds on the right wall (5a). Follow the wide crack up to the ledge and finish on face holds just right of the arête (small nuts).

'''48/48a. FUNNY MEN''' 23m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 14th June 2011. 48a Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''Takes the line 6m to the right of Young Fella. Climb easy rock to the right of chute to a ledge/terrace, continue up onto face above the chute on good rock to a slight overhang bulge. Finish direct up the bulge above the chute. (or 48a at the overhang traverse 3m right and then up to finish). Good gear (loose rock in chute, Careful Now!)

A number of shorter routes exist to the right of Mrs. Doyle's Buttress. About 25m right of Blood Right is a proud buttress with a dubious flake at 4m. This is...

==DOUGAL'S BUTTRESS==
[[File:MM Dougal But 25.jpg|center|thumb|950x950px|alt=]]

'''DOOMSDAY BLUE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Start at the steep hand crack 6m left of the protruding buttress, climb this for 3m until it steepens and footholds run out. Climb diagonally rightwards to easier ground and move left to reach the terrace, finish up a left facing corner in the upper wall.

'''49. IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST''' 10m HS 4b ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''3m left of Soggy Smurf, behind the holly tree left of the suspiciously detached looking hanging flake. Avoiding the holly, climb the clean corner (crux) to a ledge then step right and finish up short leaning wall to top of pinnacle. Good gear throughout. Some loose rock on top of pinnacle.

'''DIRECT FINISH''' HS 4b

''Hugh McCarthy, David Atkinson, 23rd March 2025.''

At the ledge instead of stepping right finish up short wall to top of pinnacle.
[[File:GTBP.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px|alt=|IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST DIRECT FINISH]]

'''50. SOGGY SMURF''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 7th Jan 2000. ''This freezing cold day ascent was the first new route of the millennium in the Burren. At the front of the buttress is a deep groove. Climb up the groove and step left into the shattered face at half height and finish delicately to the top.

'''51. AN ECUMENICAL MATTER''' 10m S 4a ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''Start as for Soggy Smurf. Excavate your way up the loose shattered groove for a few m, until your sense of self-preservation forces you right on to sounder rock. Continue to the top keeping 2-3m right of the groove. Treat rock throughout with care.

'''52. CITIZEN''' 13m S 4a ''Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''4m to the left of dancing priest there is a choss filled chute. 1m left of this is a right trending diagonal crack. Follow this crack, wide step the chute and continue diagonally rightwards on a nice slab to terrace (cross over on the dancing priest). From the right edge of the jammed flake pull strongly right up onto the narrow long ledge and continue up and right of the dubiously posed flake. Good gear. (the chute has loose rock, Careful Now!)

'''53. DANCING PRIEST''' 13m S 3c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''7m right of soggy smurf there is a slab and a large boulder above. Follow the crack left of the boulder to the ledge (crux), move left and finish up pleasant juggy crack which has a ‘fang’ it’s base. Ascend the easy terrace above to a belay on flatter ground. A pleasant climb.

'''LAND GRAB''' VD ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Climb the crack and upper wall 1m right of the suspended boulder.

'''54. SMURF SYMPHONY''' '''*''' 8m HS 4c ''Maeve Baxter, Colm O'Ciara, 8th April 2000. ''Up the right angle corner 10m right of Soggy Smurf. Climb right at the block and finish straight up.

'''HEIDI'S BIT ON THE SIDE''' 8m VD

''Jana Mannion, Barry Watts, 23rd March 2025.''

Climb the left facing corner and ramp 2m right of the descent.

'''55. HEIDI''' 8m D ''Conor Warner (Solo), May 2009. ''Climb the vertical crack 4m right of the descent, gain the ledge on the left and finish up the broken wall above.

'''56. CASPER''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''About 30m right of Smurf Symphony there's a smaller version of Dougal's buttress. Climb the corner on the left to below the tree, on reaching the tree veer right and gain the juggy ledge. Finish up the short wall on good holds. Originally mistaken for 'it's great to be a priest' near dusk

About 100m on there are further buttresses which give good scrambles.

Mullach Mor

2026-02-18T17:33:52Z

Barry watts:

As you approach the summit of Mullach Mor from the South this crag is located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the summit cairn. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading Northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.

The crag faces South-South West and is broken into four areas. The crag looks onto Father Ted’s house under the cliffs to the West (Slievenaglasa).
[[File:AERIEL VIEW 1.png|center|thumb|600x600px]]

The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of features although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10m or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilley's Chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas, in particular at Dougal's and Mrs Doyle's Buttress (Careful Now!)

There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.

To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mullach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).

To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladie drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretative centre.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to nearby Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

The nearby Lough Avalla farm have a nice tea room that is open on weekends.
[[File:Area view.png|center|thumb|830x830px|alt=]]
 

==LE FRENCH QUARTER==

This is the west facing area of the crag whose initial climbers included a number of French. The crag is about 20m at its highest point. The rock in general is good

[[File:Mm left hand.jpg|center|File:Mm left hand.jpg]] [[File:MMFrenchQtr2.JPG|center|MMFrenchQtr2.JPG]]

'''1. GAULOISES''' 8m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the left crack, left of the prow before the crag loses height. Gain the ledge at 1m and continue up the steep crack which eases off passing two small ledges.

'''2. LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' 8m D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the groove-chute 6m left of Toulouse or not Toulouse

'''LES PROLONGATIONS''' 15m S 4a ''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 19th May 2018. ''3m right of '''LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' a thin crack slants diagonally leftwards, step off a boulder and follow the crack to reach a small ledge and large holds, gain a second ledge and trend rightwards up a crack passing a third ledge to the top.

'''3. TOULOUSE OR NOT TOULOUSE''' 10m HVS 5a ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the left facing corner to the right of '''LES''' '''PROLONGATIONS''' with a fallen block at its base, just before the crag loses height. Climb gingerly past the hollow flake to a pod and up the steep corner crack above.

'''4. A CLASS TWO RELIC''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Start 3m right of Toulouse, Climb some thin cracks and finish up the steep crack-groove.

'''5. HENRY LE BÂTARD''' 13m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes an eliminate line between Class 2 Relic & Lucky Luke, step onto the blank slab, traverse left to Class 2 relic crack, up this for 3m until level with the ledge. Traverse right along the horizontal break, gain and follow the vertical crack to the top.

'''6. LUCKY LUKE''' 15m D ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 22nd June 2010. ''Take the crack 3m right of class two relic, this forms the left hand end of the big alcove which is left of the Chauffeur prow. Follow the crack to the top taking care with some loose rock higher up. Worthwhile for the grade.

'''7. Scramble''' 15m Mod Easy ascent in bay directly to left of Chauffer.

'''8. CHAUFFEUR''' * 15m V.Diff ''Conor Warner (solo), 8th April 2000. ''Follow the centre of prominent prow to the top. Good easy route.

[[File:ToD.jpg|center|File:ToD.jpg|300x300px]]

'''10. TENTACLES OF DOOM''' 15m S/HS 4a/4b ''Eoin O’Neill, James Flanagan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes a line up the right hand side of the chauffeur prow, there are two obvious leftward trending cracks at half height, start below these and climb with sustained interest past them for the first 8m, or pass the blank section by heading left to the arete, continue on finishing as for chauffeur, a good route.

'''9. LE HANDBALL''' * 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Take the obvious crack ramp system where the protruding prow joins the main cliff, steep to start, at the grassy ledge finish up the clean crack on your left which is right of the bush.

'''11. JOE LE TAXI''' 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Takes the next groove right of LE HANDBALL. Start under an overhang a thin starting corner brings easier ground and some squeaky holds before the grassy ledge is reached (mind the large hollow flake on the left), Finish as for LE HANDBALL.

'''12. PAROCHIAL PURSUITS''' * 15m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''Takes the shallow corner groove between JOE LE TAXI and A CASE OF.... Start at the large detached block, a bouldering move leads to the top or alternately go round the back and scramble to the top of the block. climb the shallow corner groove above with a slight deviation onto the ramp on the left about half way up.

'''13. A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY''' * 12m VS 4c ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the start of St. Etienne into the niche, long step left onto a sloping wall and continue straight up this wall to the grassy ledge above.

'''14. ST. ETIENNE *''' 12m VS 4c ''Cyril Blachon, Conor Warner, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''4m left of the large tree left of Paris-Match. Up a short layback corner to a small ledge and up the crack straight above to the grassy ledge above. Good route.

'''15. ST. ETIENNE BY-PASS''' * 12m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, John O'Connor, May 2000. ''As for St. Etienne but at the ledge stand on the block swing up right onto grassy ledge, ascend the rectangular block to another grassy ledge, finish up the left facing corner crack. Another worth while route.

'''16. LA CHALEUR DU SOLEIL''' 15m HVS 5a ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the crack/wall left of tree left of Paris-Match, to a small ledge on the left. Pull through the bulge to a grassy ledge and finish more easily to the top.

'''17. LA PASSION DE ST TIBULUS''' 20m S 3c ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 11th April 2011. ''Climbs the obvious pillars left of the Paris Match bay. Start up the chimney (formed by the detatched pillar) immediately right of the tree, from the top of the pinnacle follow good cracks over several ledges to the top.

'''18. LE 'S' HOOK''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Start in the left facing corner, opposite from Paris-Match, under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Hand traverse away left from the thuggery above and pull into the more amenable crack line 2m left of the corner. Up this crack and to a groove above left and follow this to finish.

'''19. MRS DOYLE'S MUFFINS''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start in the left corner under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Layback the crack (excellent gear) and pull through to easier ground above.

'''20. GO ON GO ON GO ON''' * 20m E5 6a ''Kev Power, Squib Cubbon, October 2006. ''Start as for Mrs Doyle's Muffins. At the stance below the start of the layback place big cams and then commit out the right hand crack line. Powerful moves (crux) lead Northwards to a steep corner.
[[File:MullachMor_history_008.jpg|alt=|first ascent of '''PARIS-MATCH'''|thumb|1024x1024px|center]]

'''21. PARIS-MATCH''' ** 20m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''An excellent route, 12m left of the corner (Le Guillotine) there is an alcove with an overhang. The right hand weakness/crack is climbed by the hand crack in the slab up to a ledge. Arrange protection (small nuts), and bridge and finger jam up the blank corner to a large flat hold on your left and then trending up via the groove above. Belay at the very top, re cleaned October 2025.

'''22. Project''' 20m The direct start to "Your Mother's Snickers" via the 'tear drop' rock to the right of Paris Match has been climbed on top rope at 5c.

'''23. FATHER JACK'S CRACK''' * 20m E3 5c ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''This climb starts in the corner just right of Paris Match. Climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack which is climbed direct to the top. Thin on gear but enough to keep you going.

'''24. YOUR MOTHER'S SNICKERS''' 20m HS 4c ''Eoin Fitzgerald, Nigel Callender, 1st May 2000. ''This climb starts in the second corner right of Paris-Match. Start in the corner and climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack, traverse 3m left to the arête and up to the ledge. Follow the corner crack on the right and step around right to avoid the top loose block. Trend to the left to finish the route.

'''25. PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' 18m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Takes the obvious shallow corner 3m left of the Guillotine passing a small ledge with a bush at two thirds height. Start the crack with some difficulty which soon relents when large holds on the right wall come into reach. The final steep corner crack above yields to good holds on the right which lead up and right to a ledge.

'''26. LE GUILLOTINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 8th April 2000. ''At south end of the French Quarter and 3m right of '''PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' there is a shallow corner starting with a disjointed slab. Climb this to the offwidth and onwards to the second horizontal break line; move right onto the arête and up to the grassy ledge. Finish up the right hand side corner. Be careful with the rock, large friends needed.

==FATHER TED’S CRAG==

The description of this crag starts on the far left of the south-facing crag. The first bay of the crag is marked by large boulders and trees.

'''27. BISHOP BRENNAN'S BUM''' * 15m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 14th July 2011. ''The fist crack on the left hand side of the bay, Start at ground level and grapple the sickle shaped jamming crack which straightens, widens and eventually delivers you onto a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack as for the upper section of Le Guillotine. Strenuous and painful on your hands (think about taping up or use a pair of old cycling gloves), large cams and hexes will ensure a well protected ascent.

'''28. ARSE''' * 15m E1/2 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start below steep parallel cracks. Step up and right to gain right hand crack and up this to jug. Bypass the ivy choked pod treading lightly on the flakes to the left.
[[File:M M.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]
'''29. FECK''' * 15m E3 6a ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''On the right hand side of the bay is a thin cracked wall. Climb up the wall using RP's for protection.

'''30. GRIFFINS ARETE''' 14m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Halfway between FECK and RAM'S HEAD is an arête above large boulders. Start a few m right of the arete, a technical first move on the blank slab onto a narrow ledge and up the arête to the top.

'''31. Gospel''' 14m The left facing corner to the right of Griffin's Arete has been top roped at 5b.

'''33. SPIDERBABY''' 18m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 11th April 2011. ''Follows the buttress 8m left of Rams Head and just rightbif the big tree where there is a shallow left facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) and follow cracks to the top passing several small ledges.

'''34. PONY TAIL EXPRESS''' 8m S 4b ''Elaine Ryan (solo), 8th April 2000. ''2m left of Ram’s Head there is a verticsl crack which ends at a horizontal break, climb this to the break, traverse 1m left and finish up the crack to the top.

'''35. RAM'S HEAD''' 8m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Conor Warner, 8th April 2000. ''This offwidth crack is located at front of the small buttress left of '''CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY'''. A difficult first move leads up into the offwidth. Climb the offwidth delicately to the top. The route name comes from the goat’s skull jammed in the crack.

'''36. CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY''' 8m Diff ''Danny Buckton (solo), 8th April 2000. ''The wide chimney at the right hand side of the Ram’s Head Buttress. Used as an ascent/descent.

'''37. BEACH PARTY''' * 12m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Start up the crack 5m right of Crilley’s Chimney. Climb the jamming crack to the tree. Gain a grassy ledge on your right and finish up the wall on your left through thoughtful moves.

'''38. SPICY WEDGES *''' 12m E3 5c ''Kev Power, Steve McMullan, October 2006. ''Start 8m right of beach party below the wide groove of confederacy. After a few metre's traverse left for 3m along white rock on good holds and gear. A long move (crux) leads to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

'''39. CONFEDERACY''' ** 12m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 22nd Jan 2000. ''Good climbing on sound rock, start at the wide groove (7m left of Jack’s Bottle) to a ledge on the left with a tree root and straight on up, re cleaned October 2025.

'''40. KIWI STEW (FATTY'S BANE)''' 12m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Danny Buckton, 8th April 2000. ''The thin crack about 1m right of Confederacy. Up to the ledge and straight up just right of Confederacy’s finish. Just right of this is a perfect finger crack, still unclimbed.

'''41. CHALK OR CHEESE''' * 13m HVS 5a ''Colm O'Ciara, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''Just left of Father Jack’s Bottle is a huge flake. Climb the flake to under the tree, traverse right to almost behind the bottle and then escape back up left. Great lay-backing. (this route was top roped directly to the top, Maeve Baxter 8/3/00)
[[File:MulachMor_March2011_009_preview.jpeg|alt=|thumb|800x800px|First ascent of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE'''|center]]
'''43. FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''The exposed free standing pinnacle can be climbed via a slab on the East side. Start from toe of pillar easily up onto detached flake and wide step up onto sound rock to the top of the pinnacle. Great photo opportunity.

5m uphill and right of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' there is....

==MRS. DOYLE'S BUTTRESS==

[[File:MM Doyle But.JPG|center|MM Doyle But.JPG|alt=|925x925px]] [[File:MM Doyle But2.JPG|center|MM Doyle But2.JPG|alt=|923x923px]]

'''44a&b. MY LOVELY HORSE ''' 12m S 4a-VS 4c ''Conor Warner (S variiation), June 2008. Barry Watts, Joe Connor (VS variation), April 2010. ''Take a line up the next clean buttress. Either start in the square cut vegetated gully on the far left (S) or take the inset corner (VS) crux past two ledges, head left to easier ground when holds run out near the top, easier ground is reached by a tricky but well protected mantelshelf.

'''45. YOUNG FELLA''' '''**''' 24m HS 4a/b ''Nigel Callender, Barry Watts, 22nd Jan 2000. ''The right hand side of Mrs. Doyle's is short corner and finger crack. Layback to crack and move right onto the slab. Follow the slab up to the centre of the buttress. Up a little easier to a ledge and from there continue very delicately up the left hand side face to the top. A worthwhile route.

'''46. TOO BIG FOR SMURFS''' 24m HVS 5b ''Colm O'Ciara, Maeve Baxter, 8th April 2000. ''The inset rib between Young Fella and Blood Right. Straight up the rib and over the slight overhang to the top of Young Fella’s slab. Finish right of Young Fella’s finish in the corner.

'''47. BLOOD RIGHT''' 24m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 22nd Jan 2000. ''This takes the groove 4m right of Young Fella. It starts thinly at first by using holds on the right wall (5a). Follow the wide crack up to the ledge and finish on face holds just right of the arête (small nuts).

'''48/48a. FUNNY MEN''' 23m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 14th June 2011. 48a Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''Takes the line 6m to the right of Young Fella. Climb easy rock to the right of chute to a ledge/terrace, continue up onto face above the chute on good rock to a slight overhang bulge. Finish direct up the bulge above the chute. (or 48a at the overhang traverse 3m right and then up to finish). Good gear (loose rock in chute, Careful Now!)

A number of shorter routes exist to the right of Mrs. Doyle's Buttress. About 25m right of Blood Right is a proud buttress with a dubious flake at 4m. This is...

==DOUGAL'S BUTTRESS==
[[File:MM Dougal But 25.jpg|center|thumb|950x950px|alt=]]

'''DOOMSDAY BLUE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Start at the steep hand crack 6m left of the protruding buttress, climb this for 3m until it steepens and footholds run out. Climb diagonally rightwards to easier ground and move left to reach the terrace, finish up a left facing corner in the upper wall.

'''49. IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST''' 10m HS 4b ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''3m left of Soggy Smurf, behind the holly tree left of the suspiciously detached looking hanging flake. Avoiding the holly, climb the clean corner (crux) to a ledge then step right and finish up short leaning wall to top of pinnacle. Good gear throughout. Some loose rock on top of pinnacle.

'''DIRECT FINISH''' HS 4b

''Hugh McCarthy, David Atkinson, 23rd March 2025.''

At the ledge instead of stepping right finish up short wall to top of pinnacle.
[[File:GTBP.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px|alt=|IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST DIRECT FINISH]]

'''50. SOGGY SMURF''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 7th Jan 2000. ''This freezing cold day ascent was the first new route of the millennium in the Burren. At the front of the buttress is a deep groove. Climb up the groove and step left into the shattered face at half height and finish delicately to the top.

'''51. AN ECUMENICAL MATTER''' 10m S 4a ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''Start as for Soggy Smurf. Excavate your way up the loose shattered groove for a few m, until your sense of self-preservation forces you right on to sounder rock. Continue to the top keeping 2-3m right of the groove. Treat rock throughout with care.

'''52. CITIZEN''' 13m S 4a ''Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''4m to the left of dancing priest there is a choss filled chute. 1m left of this is a right trending diagonal crack. Follow this crack, wide step the chute and continue diagonally rightwards on a nice slab to terrace (cross over on the dancing priest). From the right edge of the jammed flake pull strongly right up onto the narrow long ledge and continue up and right of the dubiously posed flake. Good gear. (the chute has loose rock, Careful Now!)

'''53. DANCING PRIEST''' 13m S 3c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''7m right of soggy smurf there is a slab and a large boulder above. Follow the crack left of the boulder to the ledge (crux), move left and finish up pleasant juggy crack which has a ‘fang’ it’s base. Ascend the easy terrace above to a belay on flatter ground. A pleasant climb.

'''LAND GRAB''' VD ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Climb the crack and upper wall 1m right of the suspended boulder.

'''54. SMURF SYMPHONY''' '''*''' 8m HS 4c ''Maeve Baxter, Colm O'Ciara, 8th April 2000. ''Up the right angle corner 10m right of Soggy Smurf. Climb right at the block and finish straight up.

'''HEIDI'S BIT ON THE SIDE''' 8m VD

''Jana Mannion, Barry Watts, 23rd March 2025.''

Climb the left facing corner and ramp 2m right of the descent.

'''55. HEIDI''' 8m D ''Conor Warner (Solo), May 2009. ''Climb the vertical crack 4m right of the descent, gain the ledge on the left and finish up the broken wall above.

'''56. CASPER''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''About 30m right of Smurf Symphony there's a smaller version of Dougal's buttress. Climb the corner on the left to below the tree, on reaching the tree veer right and gain the juggy ledge. Finish up the short wall on good holds. Originally mistaken for 'it's great to be a priest' near dusk

About 100m on there are further buttresses which give good scrambles.

Mullach Mor

2026-02-18T17:32:52Z

Barry watts:

As you approach the summit of Mullach Mor from the South this crag is located at the left hand side of the final step or tier before the summit cairn. Follow the way marked path past the Eastern bank of the lake heading Northeastwards at GR 531694, continue on foot gradually gaining height for about 25 mins and after passing a line of smaller cliffs the main crag comes into view far off and to your left. The Crag is identified by the large blocks at its base and several tall trees at the middle of the crag.

The crag faces South-South West and is broken into four areas. The crag looks onto Father Ted’s house under the cliffs to the West (Slievenaglasa).
[[File:AERIEL VIEW 1.png|center|thumb|600x600px]]

The climbs range in height from 8m to 23m and there's a good variety of features although in the main there's an abundance of vertical cracks, many of the longer climbs only hold onto their difficulties for the first 10m or less. Protection is generally good to excellent and the rock is sound once cleaned and climbed on a few times. There are scramble descents at either end of the crag or it is possible to back climb Crilley's Chimney midway along the cliff. There is loose rock to be found in some gullies/chutes and on wide ledges in a few areas, in particular at Dougal's and Mrs Doyle's Buttress (Careful Now!)

There is a lot of weird and wonderful flowers and insects in the area so please respect the place. The crag is in the Burren National Park and should be treated as such.

To reach Mullach Mor from Ennis, drive to Corofin and take the first right in the village, pass the church, take the left about half-mile out sign posted for Gort. Travel on past Ballypoltry Castle and take the left after CaherBolane House (the turn just after the right turn to Ruan). Travel this narrow road for about ¾ of a mile at the most and take the right at the Y junction. Mullach Mor is visible in front of you and the crag is up on the top left hand corner of the hill (mountain).

To reach Mullach Mor from Ailladie drive to Lisdoonvarna, onto Kilfenora, along the Corofin road until you reach Kilnaboy. Take the left just after Kilnaboy ruined church and continue on this road (10 minutes) until you see a sign for Green Road to the left, go right and onwards for about ½ mile past the site of the famed cancelled interpretative centre.

Summer 2025 Update.

There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to nearby Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.

The nearby Lough Avalla farm have a nice tea room that is open on weekends.
[[File:Area view.png|center|thumb|830x830px|alt=]]
 

==LE FRENCH QUARTER==

This is the west facing area of the crag whose initial climbers included a number of French. The crag is about 20m at its highest point. The rock in general is good

[[File:Mm left hand.jpg|center|File:Mm left hand.jpg]] [[File:MMFrenchQtr2.JPG|center|MMFrenchQtr2.JPG]]

'''1. GAULOISES''' 8m VD ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the left crack, left of the prow before the crag loses height. Gain the ledge at 1m and continue up the steep crack which eases off passing two small ledges.

'''2. LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' 8m D ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes the groove-chute 6m left of Toulouse or not Toulouse

'''LES PROLONGATIONS''' 15m S 4a ''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 19th May 2018. ''3m right of '''LE COQ SANS SPORTIF''' a thin crack slants diagonally leftwards, step off a boulder and follow the crack to reach a small ledge and large holds, gain a second ledge and trend rightwards up a crack passing a third ledge to the top.

'''3. TOULOUSE OR NOT TOULOUSE''' 10m HVS 5a ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the left facing corner to the right of '''LES''' '''PROLONGATIONS''' with a fallen block at its base, just before the crag loses height. Climb gingerly past the hollow flake to a pod and up the steep corner crack above.

'''4. A CLASS TWO RELIC''' 10m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Start 3m right of Toulouse, Climb some thin cracks and finish up the steep crack-groove.

'''5. HENRY LE BÂTARD''' 13m VS 4b ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes an eliminate line between Class 2 Relic & Lucky Luke, step onto the blank slab, traverse left to Class 2 relic crack, up this for 3m until level with the ledge. Traverse right along the horizontal break, gain and follow the vertical crack to the top.

'''6. LUCKY LUKE''' 15m D ''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 22nd June 2010. ''Take the crack 3m right of class two relic, this forms the left hand end of the big alcove which is left of the Chauffeur prow. Follow the crack to the top taking care with some loose rock higher up. Worthwhile for the grade.

'''7. Scramble''' 15m Mod Easy ascent in bay directly to left of Chauffer.

'''8. CHAUFFEUR''' * 15m V.Diff ''Conor Warner (solo), 8th April 2000. ''Follow the centre of prominent prow to the top. Good easy route.

[[File:ToD.jpg|center|File:ToD.jpg|100x100px]]

'''10. TENTACLES OF DOOM''' 15m S/HS 4a/4b ''Eoin O’Neill, James Flanagan, 3rd July 2010. ''Takes a line up the right hand side of the chauffeur prow, there are two obvious leftward trending cracks at half height, start below these and climb with sustained interest past them for the first 8m, or pass the blank section by heading left to the arete, continue on finishing as for chauffeur, a good route.

'''9. LE HANDBALL''' * 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Take the obvious crack ramp system where the protruding prow joins the main cliff, steep to start, at the grassy ledge finish up the clean crack on your left which is right of the bush.

'''11. JOE LE TAXI''' 15m VS 4b ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''Takes the next groove right of LE HANDBALL. Start under an overhang a thin starting corner brings easier ground and some squeaky holds before the grassy ledge is reached (mind the large hollow flake on the left), Finish as for LE HANDBALL.

'''12. PAROCHIAL PURSUITS''' * 15m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''Takes the shallow corner groove between JOE LE TAXI and A CASE OF.... Start at the large detached block, a bouldering move leads to the top or alternately go round the back and scramble to the top of the block. climb the shallow corner groove above with a slight deviation onto the ramp on the left about half way up.

'''13. A CASE OF MISTAKEN IDENTITY''' * 12m VS 4c ''Neil O'Connor, Peter Farrell, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the start of St. Etienne into the niche, long step left onto a sloping wall and continue straight up this wall to the grassy ledge above.

'''14. ST. ETIENNE *''' 12m VS 4c ''Cyril Blachon, Conor Warner, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''4m left of the large tree left of Paris-Match. Up a short layback corner to a small ledge and up the crack straight above to the grassy ledge above. Good route.

'''15. ST. ETIENNE BY-PASS''' * 12m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, John O'Connor, May 2000. ''As for St. Etienne but at the ledge stand on the block swing up right onto grassy ledge, ascend the rectangular block to another grassy ledge, finish up the left facing corner crack. Another worth while route.

'''16. LA CHALEUR DU SOLEIL''' 15m HVS 5a ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Climb the crack/wall left of tree left of Paris-Match, to a small ledge on the left. Pull through the bulge to a grassy ledge and finish more easily to the top.

'''17. LA PASSION DE ST TIBULUS''' 20m S 3c ''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 11th April 2011. ''Climbs the obvious pillars left of the Paris Match bay. Start up the chimney (formed by the detatched pillar) immediately right of the tree, from the top of the pinnacle follow good cracks over several ledges to the top.

'''18. LE 'S' HOOK''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Farrell, Neil O'Connor, 1st May 2000. ''Start in the left facing corner, opposite from Paris-Match, under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Hand traverse away left from the thuggery above and pull into the more amenable crack line 2m left of the corner. Up this crack and to a groove above left and follow this to finish.

'''19. MRS DOYLE'S MUFFINS''' * 20m E1 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start in the left corner under the steep overhang. Climb the corner to a stance below the overhanging meaty crack. Layback the crack (excellent gear) and pull through to easier ground above.

'''20. GO ON GO ON GO ON''' * 20m E5 6a ''Kev Power, Squib Cubbon, October 2006. ''Start as for Mrs Doyle's Muffins. At the stance below the start of the layback place big cams and then commit out the right hand crack line. Powerful moves (crux) lead Northwards to a steep corner.
[[File:MullachMor_history_008.jpg|alt=|first ascent of '''PARIS-MATCH'''|thumb|1024x1024px|center]]

'''21. PARIS-MATCH''' ** 20m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''An excellent route, 12m left of the corner (Le Guillotine) there is an alcove with an overhang. The right hand weakness/crack is climbed by the hand crack in the slab up to a ledge. Arrange protection (small nuts), and bridge and finger jam up the blank corner to a large flat hold on your left and then trending up via the groove above. Belay at the very top, re cleaned October 2025.

'''22. Project''' 20m The direct start to "Your Mother's Snickers" via the 'tear drop' rock to the right of Paris Match has been climbed on top rope at 5c.

'''23. FATHER JACK'S CRACK''' * 20m E3 5c ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''This climb starts in the corner just right of Paris Match. Climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack which is climbed direct to the top. Thin on gear but enough to keep you going.

'''24. YOUR MOTHER'S SNICKERS''' 20m HS 4c ''Eoin Fitzgerald, Nigel Callender, 1st May 2000. ''This climb starts in the second corner right of Paris-Match. Start in the corner and climb to the break at the base of the narrow crack, traverse 3m left to the arête and up to the ledge. Follow the corner crack on the right and step around right to avoid the top loose block. Trend to the left to finish the route.

'''25. PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' 18m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 22nd June 2010. ''Takes the obvious shallow corner 3m left of the Guillotine passing a small ledge with a bush at two thirds height. Start the crack with some difficulty which soon relents when large holds on the right wall come into reach. The final steep corner crack above yields to good holds on the right which lead up and right to a ledge.

'''26. LE GUILLOTINE''' 15m VS 4c ''Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 8th April 2000. ''At south end of the French Quarter and 3m right of '''PAT MUSTARD STRIKES AGAIN''' there is a shallow corner starting with a disjointed slab. Climb this to the offwidth and onwards to the second horizontal break line; move right onto the arête and up to the grassy ledge. Finish up the right hand side corner. Be careful with the rock, large friends needed.

==FATHER TED’S CRAG==

The description of this crag starts on the far left of the south-facing crag. The first bay of the crag is marked by large boulders and trees.

'''27. BISHOP BRENNAN'S BUM''' * 15m HVS 5a ''Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 14th July 2011. ''The fist crack on the left hand side of the bay, Start at ground level and grapple the sickle shaped jamming crack which straightens, widens and eventually delivers you onto a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack as for the upper section of Le Guillotine. Strenuous and painful on your hands (think about taping up or use a pair of old cycling gloves), large cams and hexes will ensure a well protected ascent.

'''28. ARSE''' * 15m E1/2 5b ''Peter Owens, Dave Broderick, October 2006. ''Start below steep parallel cracks. Step up and right to gain right hand crack and up this to jug. Bypass the ivy choked pod treading lightly on the flakes to the left.
[[File:M M.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]
'''29. FECK''' * 15m E3 6a ''Squib Cubbon, Kev Power, October 2006. ''On the right hand side of the bay is a thin cracked wall. Climb up the wall using RP's for protection.

'''30. GRIFFINS ARETE''' 14m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Halfway between FECK and RAM'S HEAD is an arête above large boulders. Start a few m right of the arete, a technical first move on the blank slab onto a narrow ledge and up the arête to the top.

'''31. Gospel''' 14m The left facing corner to the right of Griffin's Arete has been top roped at 5b.

'''33. SPIDERBABY''' 18m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 11th April 2011. ''Follows the buttress 8m left of Rams Head and just rightbif the big tree where there is a shallow left facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) and follow cracks to the top passing several small ledges.

'''34. PONY TAIL EXPRESS''' 8m S 4b ''Elaine Ryan (solo), 8th April 2000. ''2m left of Ram’s Head there is a verticsl crack which ends at a horizontal break, climb this to the break, traverse 1m left and finish up the crack to the top.

'''35. RAM'S HEAD''' 8m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Conor Warner, 8th April 2000. ''This offwidth crack is located at front of the small buttress left of '''CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY'''. A difficult first move leads up into the offwidth. Climb the offwidth delicately to the top. The route name comes from the goat’s skull jammed in the crack.

'''36. CRILLEY'S CHIMNEY''' 8m Diff ''Danny Buckton (solo), 8th April 2000. ''The wide chimney at the right hand side of the Ram’s Head Buttress. Used as an ascent/descent.

'''37. BEACH PARTY''' * 12m HS 4c ''Barry Watts, Elaine Ryan, 8th April 2000. ''Start up the crack 5m right of Crilley’s Chimney. Climb the jamming crack to the tree. Gain a grassy ledge on your right and finish up the wall on your left through thoughtful moves.

'''38. SPICY WEDGES *''' 12m E3 5c ''Kev Power, Steve McMullan, October 2006. ''Start 8m right of beach party below the wide groove of confederacy. After a few metre's traverse left for 3m along white rock on good holds and gear. A long move (crux) leads to the horizontal break. Follow the crack and groove to the top.

'''39. CONFEDERACY''' ** 12m VS 5a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Nigel Callender, 22nd Jan 2000. ''Good climbing on sound rock, start at the wide groove (7m left of Jack’s Bottle) to a ledge on the left with a tree root and straight on up, re cleaned October 2025.

'''40. KIWI STEW (FATTY'S BANE)''' 12m HVS 5a ''Nigel Callender, Danny Buckton, 8th April 2000. ''The thin crack about 1m right of Confederacy. Up to the ledge and straight up just right of Confederacy’s finish. Just right of this is a perfect finger crack, still unclimbed.

'''41. CHALK OR CHEESE''' * 13m HVS 5a ''Colm O'Ciara, Andrew Speer, 8th April 2000. ''Just left of Father Jack’s Bottle is a huge flake. Climb the flake to under the tree, traverse right to almost behind the bottle and then escape back up left. Great lay-backing. (this route was top roped directly to the top, Maeve Baxter 8/3/00)
[[File:MulachMor_March2011_009_preview.jpeg|alt=|thumb|800x800px|First ascent of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE'''|center]]
'''43. FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2011. ''The exposed free standing pinnacle can be climbed via a slab on the East side. Start from toe of pillar easily up onto detached flake and wide step up onto sound rock to the top of the pinnacle. Great photo opportunity.

5m uphill and right of '''FATHER JACKS WHISKEY BOTTLE''' there is....

==MRS. DOYLE'S BUTTRESS==

[[File:MM Doyle But.JPG|center|MM Doyle But.JPG|alt=|925x925px]] [[File:MM Doyle But2.JPG|center|MM Doyle But2.JPG|alt=|923x923px]]

'''44a&b. MY LOVELY HORSE ''' 12m S 4a-VS 4c ''Conor Warner (S variiation), June 2008. Barry Watts, Joe Connor (VS variation), April 2010. ''Take a line up the next clean buttress. Either start in the square cut vegetated gully on the far left (S) or take the inset corner (VS) crux past two ledges, head left to easier ground when holds run out near the top, easier ground is reached by a tricky but well protected mantelshelf.

'''45. YOUNG FELLA''' '''**''' 24m HS 4a/b ''Nigel Callender, Barry Watts, 22nd Jan 2000. ''The right hand side of Mrs. Doyle's is short corner and finger crack. Layback to crack and move right onto the slab. Follow the slab up to the centre of the buttress. Up a little easier to a ledge and from there continue very delicately up the left hand side face to the top. A worthwhile route.

'''46. TOO BIG FOR SMURFS''' 24m HVS 5b ''Colm O'Ciara, Maeve Baxter, 8th April 2000. ''The inset rib between Young Fella and Blood Right. Straight up the rib and over the slight overhang to the top of Young Fella’s slab. Finish right of Young Fella’s finish in the corner.

'''47. BLOOD RIGHT''' 24m VS 4c ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 22nd Jan 2000. ''This takes the groove 4m right of Young Fella. It starts thinly at first by using holds on the right wall (5a). Follow the wide crack up to the ledge and finish on face holds just right of the arête (small nuts).

'''48/48a. FUNNY MEN''' 23m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 14th June 2011. 48a Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''Takes the line 6m to the right of Young Fella. Climb easy rock to the right of chute to a ledge/terrace, continue up onto face above the chute on good rock to a slight overhang bulge. Finish direct up the bulge above the chute. (or 48a at the overhang traverse 3m right and then up to finish). Good gear (loose rock in chute, Careful Now!)

A number of shorter routes exist to the right of Mrs. Doyle's Buttress. About 25m right of Blood Right is a proud buttress with a dubious flake at 4m. This is...

==DOUGAL'S BUTTRESS==
[[File:MM Dougal But 25.jpg|center|thumb|950x950px|alt=]]

'''DOOMSDAY BLUE''' S ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Start at the steep hand crack 6m left of the protruding buttress, climb this for 3m until it steepens and footholds run out. Climb diagonally rightwards to easier ground and move left to reach the terrace, finish up a left facing corner in the upper wall.

'''49. IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST''' 10m HS 4b ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''3m left of Soggy Smurf, behind the holly tree left of the suspiciously detached looking hanging flake. Avoiding the holly, climb the clean corner (crux) to a ledge then step right and finish up short leaning wall to top of pinnacle. Good gear throughout. Some loose rock on top of pinnacle.

'''DIRECT FINISH''' HS 4b

''Hugh McCarthy, David Atkinson, 23rd March 2025.''

At the ledge instead of stepping right finish up short wall to top of pinnacle.
[[File:GTBP.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px|alt=|IT'S GREAT TO BE A PRIEST DIRECT FINISH]]

'''50. SOGGY SMURF''' 12m HS 4b ''Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 7th Jan 2000. ''This freezing cold day ascent was the first new route of the millennium in the Burren. At the front of the buttress is a deep groove. Climb up the groove and step left into the shattered face at half height and finish delicately to the top.

'''51. AN ECUMENICAL MATTER''' 10m S 4a ''Kevin Forde, Tim McCarthy, 01 July 2006. ''Start as for Soggy Smurf. Excavate your way up the loose shattered groove for a few m, until your sense of self-preservation forces you right on to sounder rock. Continue to the top keeping 2-3m right of the groove. Treat rock throughout with care.

'''52. CITIZEN''' 13m S 4a ''Conor Warner, Radu Toma, 14th May 2011. ''4m to the left of dancing priest there is a choss filled chute. 1m left of this is a right trending diagonal crack. Follow this crack, wide step the chute and continue diagonally rightwards on a nice slab to terrace (cross over on the dancing priest). From the right edge of the jammed flake pull strongly right up onto the narrow long ledge and continue up and right of the dubiously posed flake. Good gear. (the chute has loose rock, Careful Now!)

'''53. DANCING PRIEST''' 13m S 3c ''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3rd July 2010. ''7m right of soggy smurf there is a slab and a large boulder above. Follow the crack left of the boulder to the ledge (crux), move left and finish up pleasant juggy crack which has a ‘fang’ it’s base. Ascend the easy terrace above to a belay on flatter ground. A pleasant climb.

'''LAND GRAB''' VD ''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 10th May 2024.'' Climb the crack and upper wall 1m right of the suspended boulder.

'''54. SMURF SYMPHONY''' '''*''' 8m HS 4c ''Maeve Baxter, Colm O'Ciara, 8th April 2000. ''Up the right angle corner 10m right of Soggy Smurf. Climb right at the block and finish straight up.

'''HEIDI'S BIT ON THE SIDE''' 8m VD

''Jana Mannion, Barry Watts, 23rd March 2025.''

Climb the left facing corner and ramp 2m right of the descent.

'''55. HEIDI''' 8m D ''Conor Warner (Solo), May 2009. ''Climb the vertical crack 4m right of the descent, gain the ledge on the left and finish up the broken wall above.

'''56. CASPER''' 8m S 4a ''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 15th June 2010. ''About 30m right of Smurf Symphony there's a smaller version of Dougal's buttress. Climb the corner on the left to below the tree, on reaching the tree veer right and gain the juggy ledge. Finish up the short wall on good holds. Originally mistaken for 'it's great to be a priest' near dusk

About 100m on there are further buttresses which give good scrambles.