http://wiki.climbing.ie/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Barry+wattsIrish Climbing Wiki - User contributions [en]2026-10-06T02:20:39ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.35.1http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Oughtdarra&diff=5241Oughtdarra2026-09-27T08:46:31Z<p>Barry watts: /* An Fear Bréige */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Introduction==<br />
<br />
The townlands of Oughtdarra, Crumlin and Ballynahown make a wild and beautiful climbing ground, the scenery and atmosphere are a real treat to the senses after a long car or bus journey. Terrain wise the areas are riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements, bearing in mind that the area is used for pasture and is home to wild goats ticks are an ever present concern, solid footwear and a walking pole are also recommended. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the car park/lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk (keeping a dry stone wall on you left) should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. For Leacht na nAmadan there is roadside parking space 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area in this way!<br />
[[File:Final_Oughtdarra.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br /><br />
[[File:End wall OV.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
==End Wall==<br />
An off vertical 8m wall/slab of rock 200m North and Left of Gale Buttress.[[File:End wall.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''SAHARA BOYS''' VS 4c<br />
<br />
''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th August 2022.''<br />
Climb the cracked left hand edge of the slab.[[File:IMG_2677.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px|]]<br />
<br />
View of Northern Buttress from Central Area.<br />
<br />
==Gale Buttress==<br />
[[File:GB 2.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
About 150m Left/North of Northern Buttress the West facing escarpment rises to form a steep buttress above a hollow bowl type feature in the ground below. <br />
<br />
'''WEATHER GIRLS''' VD <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.<br />
<br />
Climbs the corner on the left of the buttress.<br />
<br />
'''ATLANTIC FRONT''' HS <br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 12th June 2022''.<br />
<br />
Climb the cracks 2m right of '''WG''' making a brief excursion over to the sloping ledge on the left to gain the final finish crack. <br />
[[File:GB 1.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''ISOBAR''' S <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 12th June 2022''.<br />
<br />
There is an arrow head feature (inverted v) on the front wall of the buttress, this climb takes a rightwards traverse of the crag from it's base. Climb the left hand ramp to it's top, move down and rightwards to avoid a dubious block on the right, climb up to the grassy ledge and move rightwards to it's end, take a step up and finish rightwards over broken ground.<br />
<br />
==Northern Buttress==<br />
[[File:Northern_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
This wall starts facing West but faces South after the Stone wall, descriptions run West to East or left to right.<br />
<br />
'''SPICY''' 10m HVS 5a<br />''Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009.<br />''Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.<br />
<br />
'''TEFLON LEFT HAND ''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Cliff Baxter, July 2005.<br />''Climb crack 2m left of Teflon Crack<br />
<br />
'''TEFLON CRACK''' 10m S<br />''Cliff Baxter, July 2005.<br />''Right of the dry stone wall climb the offwidth crack using wide bridging and deterrmined technique, hard at the start.<br />
<br />
'''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING''' 9m HS<br />''Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová, 15/04/2017.<br />''Climb the wide crack 1m right of '''TEFLON CRACK''' and which is behind the leaning pillar to the ledge. Finish rightwards over sloping ledges to the top.<br />
<br />
'''Direct Start; THE SLAB BRIDGE START''' HS <br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.<br />''Where the dry stone wall meets the leaning pillar climb the slab directly to the ledge and finish as for '''THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING.'''<br />
[[File:NB BC.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''A BECKONING CRACK''' 9m S<br />''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 15/04/2017.<br />''Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up wide crack in left-hand wall to awkwardly surmount sloping ledge (crux) climb up short wall and blocky ridge to finish.<br />
<br />
'''FLOWER POWER WALL''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Conor Warner, 15th April 2022.<br />''Start as for '''BECKONING CRACK''' to the ledge. Finish up the cracked wall and corner in front of you.<br />
<br />
''The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the gully.''<br />
<br />
'''WHERE IS THE GENTIAN''' S <br />''Ingolf Kühn (solo), 15th April 2022.<br />''Climb the wall 1m left of '''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' to a small ledge, difficulty decreases thereafter.<br />
<br />
'''GRACEFUL ELEPHANT''' 8m HS 4b<br />''Karl Sloan, Enda Prendergast. Spring 2013.<br />''Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.<br />
<br />
'''OGONNELLOE BURGER''' 8m VD<br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/2017.<br />''Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.<br />
<br />
'''PETIT CAFÉ''' 6m VD<br />''Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/2017.<br />''Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start <br />
<br />
''Right of the descent gully and behind the large boulder there are two left facing corners at ground level.''<br />
<br />
'''WILL IT GO?''' 14m S<br />''Karl Sloan, Liam Calnan, Spring 2013.<br />''Start 2m left of Hulalooper climb up a well protected left facing corner (crux) stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Direct finish''' HS ''B Watts, C Rice, 6/9/2015.<br />''After climbung initial left facing corner finish directly up fist sized crack. <br />
<br />
'''HULALOOPER''' * 14m S 4a ''Marcin Ostasz, Peter Owens, May 2007.'' Slightly right of the second corner there is a ramp'','' follow this pleasant cracked ramp to a ledge and finish via an awkward short corner to the top.<br />
[[File:Northern_central_area.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next 3 routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.<br />
<br />
'''ARNHEM **''' 16m VS 4c<br />''Paul Daly, July 2005.<br />''5m right of the gully, climb a superb flakey crack to a ramp<br />
leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish.<br />
<br />
'''Direct Start''' HVS 5b ''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007''. 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route.<br />
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'''BALLYNALACKEN *''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007.<br />''Right of Arnhem follow the ramp system to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.<br />
<br />
'''SCATTERY LEDGE''' * 18m HS 4c<br />''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011.<br />''This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.<br />
<br />
'''I WANNA BE ADORED''' 18m E1 5b<br />''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019.<br />''Same start as Free Radical, up a short right-trending, grassy ramp. Halfway along break left up yellow lichenous wall - the broken groove and spike. Continue to the vegetated ledge. Move up corner overhang to finish. <br />
<br />
'''FREE RADICAL''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.<br />''Takes the high steep corner 5m right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.<br />
[[File:NoRHS_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:Rocket Man.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|ROCKET MAN]]<br />
<br />
'''ROCKET MAN''' 16m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.<br />''8m right of free radical (and the jungle) there is a large protruding flake at one third height, follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to a ledge and finish left of a small overhang at head height.<br />
<br />
Variation: '''THE ARMSTRONG FINISH''' HS ''Conor Warner, Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 15th April 2022.'' At the ledge finish up the cracked wall right of the small overhang at head height.<br />
<br />
'''ASTRONOMY DOMINE''' * 15m VS 4c <br />''Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan, October 2011. <br />''Start in a niche, 3m to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.<br />
<br />
'''EMILY'S ROUTE''' 16m HS 4b <br />''Emma Glanville, July 2005.<br />''On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protruding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.<br />
<br />
'''BALLYGOBACKWARDS''' 16m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017.<br />''Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Route. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge,<br />
move right up a shallow corner to the top<br />
<br />
The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, the climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!<br />
<br />
There is a cleaned line of cracks and flakes on the clean wall left of Meridian but mid way up they feel loose and sound hollow.<br />
<br />
'''MERIDIAN '''** E3 5c <br />''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011 (On Sight).<br />''The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantleshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route <br />
<br />
'''THE RISING''' 20m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017.<br />''Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m right of Meridian below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.<br />
<br />
100m further East and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces West.<br />
[[File:V2.jpg|center|thumb|900x900px]]<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
==Builders Buttress==<br />
[[File:Builders_Sept_2017.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
This wall faces West and runs North to South, with routes going left to right or Southwards.<br />
<br />
'''SITE PASS''' 10m VS 4b/4c<br />''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.<br />''Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5m (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1m right and climb the cracked wall to the top<br />
<br />
'''SKIP FOR HIRE''' 10m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.<br />''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Site Pass.<br />
<br />
'''RUBBLE ROULETTE''' 10m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017.<br />''Takes the steep crack line 2m right of Skip for Hire.<br />
<br />
'''GROUNDWORKS''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010.<br />''About 5m right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the small tree root below the top.<br />
<br />
'''CONSTRUCTION SITE''' 10m VS 4c/5a<br />''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010.<br />''Start 2m right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenuous steep start.<br />
<br />
'''BUCKAROO''' 10m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015.<br />''Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2m height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang which is about 3m further right of the last route, pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish. <br />
<br />
5m further Right/South there is Goat Buttress. <br />
<br />
==Goat Buttress==<br />
[[File:Goat Buttress 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''TRIBAL GOATS''' 10m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014.<br />''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner continuing up the corner to the top.<br />
<br />
'''BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN''' 10m HS 4a <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.<br />''10m right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top. <br />
<br />
'''YOU'RE KIDDING ME?''' 10m VD <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.'' <br />
<br />
3m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall between the loose chute and '''ACTING THE GOAT''' to the ledge, finish directly up the crack. <br />
<br />
'''ACTING THE GOAT''' 10m D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014. <br />''4m right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish. <br />
<br />
About 20m further Right/South there is Goat Slab. <br />
<br />
==Goat Slab==<br />
[[File:GS.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''GOATS DON'T SHAVE''' (1) D<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the thin crack line to the terrace, finish up a crack.<br />
<br />
'''GOATS FOR THE HARD ROAD''' (2) D<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 31/8/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack. <br />
<br />
'''WALK OF SHAME''' (3) D<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack to the terrace, finish up the cracked wall. <br />
<br />
'''DIRTY STOP OUT''' (4) D<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5/9/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the slab to the terrace and finish up a crack.<br />
<br />
About 10m further Right/South there is Canyon Buttress.<br />
<br />
==Canyon Buttress==<br />
[[File:Canyon.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''ROCKERY''' 11m VD<br />''Mark Standbridge, 18th August 2013.<br />''In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.<br />
<br />
'''OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016.<br />''Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top. <br />
<br />
'''PRE OP''' 12m HS 4a<br />''Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard, 6th July 2014.<br />''2m left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.<br />
[[File:Bladerunner1.JPG|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''BLADE RUNNER''' 12m S 4a<br />''Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett, 18th August 2013.<br />''This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.<br />
[[File:Pre_op.jpg|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''GRAND CANYON''' * 12m VD <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014.<br />''Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1m left of this arête directly to the top. <br />
<br />
'''BONANZA''' 12m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014. <br />''A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.<br />
<br />
Walking from here for 300m Right/South, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.<br />
<br />
==Central Area==<br />
[[File:Central_Section1_Left_Hand.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''THERE'S NOTHING LEFT''' 16m VS 4c<br />''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007.<br />''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.<br />
<br />
'''THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT''' 17m S 4a<br />''Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sept 2012.<br />''Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.<br />
<br />
'''NUTSTOPPER''' 16m HS 4b<br />''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.<br />''Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.<br />
<br />
'''SWEEP''' 9m S 4b<br />''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.<br />''Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish<br />
<br />
'''ORLA's CROSS''' 10m VS<br />''Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007.<br />''Next obvious crackline 4m right of Sweep. Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way. <br />
[[File:Central Area Right Updated.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px|Updated image of Central Area right to include new climbs]]<br />
'''TWO WATER MELONS *''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005.<br />''Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.<br />
<br />
'''BOB MARLEY''' 10m HVS 5b<br />''Paul Daly, July 2005.<br />''A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove<br />
<br />
'''HANDS OFF''' 16m HS 4c<br />''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.<br />''Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.<br />
<br />
Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)<br />
<br />
'''ONE FOR THE ROAD''' 16m HS 4b <br />''Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012.<br />''Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.<br />
<br />
'''THEX MHEX''' HS<br />''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 17/04/2017.<br />''Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.<br />
<br />
'''REX HEX LIZ''' * 15m HS 4b<br />''Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012. <br />''Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days).<br />Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner. <br />
<br />
'''SIX- SEVEN''' 16m VS 4c<br />''Liam Blake, Charlotte Vanacore, 23rd November 2025.<br />''Start in between Rex Hex Liz and Daisy Days, using the obvious crack to place your first gear. Follow the crack up until it disappears, and place your last piece of gear before a short portion of exposed climbing. After this crux there are good holds up to large ledge, then use same corner to finish as Daisy Days. <br />
<br />
'''DAISY DAYS''' 16m D<br />''Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999.<br />''At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.<br />
<br />
The next crag is about 300m Roght/South of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.<br />
<br />
==An Fear Bréige==<br />
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with four climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back Roght/East along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang. There was once a ringfort called Doonannmore perched on top of the cliff.<br />
<br />
Routes are listed from left to right West to East.<br />
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Far_Left.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''RAM RAID''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.<br />''This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.<br />
<br />
'''THICKET TO RIDE''' 10m E1 5c<br />''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006.<br />''The left hand crack<br />
<br />
'''IS THAT IT ?''' 10m E1 5c<br />''Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. <br />''The right hand crack<br />
<br />
'''COUNTERPOINT''' 10m E2 6a<br />''Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012 (headpoint).<br />''Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.<br />
[[File:An_Fear_Breige_Central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''DÚN NA SIÓGA''' 8m S<br />''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016.<br />''Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.<br />
<br />
'''FLIGHT RISK''' 8m S <br />''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.<br />''Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.<br />
<br />
'''BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE''' HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016.<br />''Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right <br />
and finish up the cracked wall above.<br />
[[File:DSC02187.JPG|alt=|center|533x533px]]<br />
First ascent of '''LONE STAR'''<br />
<br />
'''LONE STAR''' ** VS 4c <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016.<br />''20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.<br />
[[File:Even_more_an_fear_breige.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''PADDYWHACKERY''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015.<br />''20m left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock.<br />
Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner,<br />
Traverse left for 3m and finish up the flake crack. <br />
<br />
'''OBAIR NA SIÓGA''' 10m HS<br />''Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.<br />''Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner. <br />
<br />
'''MATCHMAKER''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016.<br />''Climb the wall and right facing corner 3m right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.<br />
[[File:FB central.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''80's RACK''' HS<br />
<br />
''David Atkinson, Barry Watts, 6th July 2024.''<br />
<br />
15m right of '''MATCHMAKER''' there is a left facing groove/shallow corner, Climb to the ledge, place protection in the wide crack and climb steeply up the wall 1m to the right.<br />
<br />
In the next alcove there is<br />
<br />
'''BANNER JOY''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Cohen Ambrose, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the groove/shallow corner on the left.<br />
<br />
'''DAL gCAIS''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Paul Delahunt, 6th July 2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the groove/shallow corner on the right.<br />
<br />
'''CHRISTY TURLINGTON''' 10m VS 4c<br />''J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.<br />''The crack in the wide corner 30m or 40m left of Baby Lotion.<br />
<br />
'''BABY LOTION''' 13m HVS 5a<br />''N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/1993.<br />''Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.<br />
<br />
200m Right/East of An Fear Breige there is.<br />
<br />
==Lysacht's Cave area==<br />
<br />
The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, the approach is past An Fear Breige, over a downed meral gate through a small hazel wood. The wood is hard going at times so best to keep paralell to the cliff and when you see large boulders head right/East to a cattlle path,. There was once a ringfort called Doonannbeg perched on top of the cliff.<br />
[[File:Capture_(2).JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''TWEAKIN''' 20m E3 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.<br />''This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.<br />
<br />
'''PLUMBLINE''' * 20m E1 5b<br />''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/1977.<br />''Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.<br />
<br />
Direct Finish HVS 5a<br />''N. Diamond, Spring 1987.<br />''From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.<br />
<br />
'''WEEVIL''' 23m HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/1977.<br />''This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.<br />
<br />
Direct start E1 5c<br />''I. Ryan, 1984.<br />''Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.<br />
<br />
'''ARTFUL DODGER''' 21m HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/1977. <br />''There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.<br />
<br />
'''WAVY GRAVY''' 21m E4 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, 4/6/1988.<br />''Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the overhanging corner for 10m to a sharp handrail on the left wall. Campus to the next edge and mantle to better holds. Finish up the crack above.<br />
<br />
'''BUSKER''' 21m VS 4c<br />''K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/1977.<br />''This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.<br />
<br />
'''WALKING THE DOG''' 21m S 4a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/1977.<br />''There is a short corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.<br />
<br />
About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.<br />
<br />
'''CAVE CANEM''' 13m S 4b<br />''D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/1977.<br />''Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.<br />
<br />
==Leacht na nAmadan==<br />
<br />
This area is North of Leaba na hAon Bho and further up the same escarpment. This cliff is the closest to the road as the coast road curves inland. There is roadside parking spaces 2km further on/North from the Ailladie car park/lay by, the spaces are just before and 100m after a farm gate on the East/Right hand side of the road.<br />
Walk through the gate and walk to the brow of the hill and you will spot the escarpment and shortly after you will find a sheltered green valley running parallel and North/South beneath the cliffs. <br />
[[File:Area update.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
Amid a jumble of low cliffs and vertical clefts on the far left of the line of cliffs two smooth steep walls come together to make a left facing corner.<br />
<br />
===Crumlin Wall===<br />
[[File:01Crumlin_Wall_Left_resize.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|599x599px]]<br />
<br />
'''JUST ANOTHER TICK''' 8m Mild Severe<br />
<br />
''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the middle of the lower slab (without the use of the left detached block) to the horizontal crack and small vertical crack (good gear). Step up and left to a small hold and avail of the juggy arete. Continue directly to the top via the arete. <br />
<br />
'''BEST MAN'S BOOGIE''' 8m Diff<br />
<br />
''A. Mockler, S. Byrne, 9th July 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the broken large vertical crack directly to the top. Don't stray into the corner. Be aware there is a loose block on the left during topout.<br />
<br />
'''LEMON SQUEEZY''' 8m Mod<br />
<br />
''S. Byrne, A. Mockler, 9th July 2022.''<br />
<br />
For those looking for a ramble, climb the obvious corner. <br />
[[File:Crumlin_Wall.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''EASY PEASY''' D<br />''Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020.<br />''Climb the slabby cracked wall right of the arete<br />
<br />
'''AN GEATA BAN''' D<br />''Conor Warner (solo), 18th October 2020.<br />''Climb the crack 3m left of the corner <br />
<br />
'''LITTLE RED CORVETTE''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O Toole, 1st May 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the slabby wall left of '''HUSAVIK''' finishing up the crack in the overhang. <br />
<br />
'''HUSAVIK''' D<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020. <br />''Climb the corner.<br />
<br />
'''ANCHORMAN''' HS<br />
<br />
''Audrey O Toole, David Brosnan, Barry Watts,1st May 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the wall and thin crackline 1.5m right of '''HUSAVIK''' to the top. <br />
<br />
'''CRUMLIN ROAD''' HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020.<br />''Start 3m right of the corner and just left of a broken loose groove, climb the thin left ward trending crack to a small ledge, trend left to the top.<br />
<br />
==='''Swampstone Wall'''===<br />
A low but steep wall of rock to the right of Crumlin Wall is the next interesting rock feature. <br />
[[File:Ss.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''SWAMP STONE CRACK''' S <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Brandon O'Toole, 18th October 2020. <br />''Climb the leftmost crack on the steep cracked wall, belay in the rift behind the buttress, exit to the right.<br />
<br />
==='''Shadow and Bone Wall'''===<br />
This wall to the right of Swampstone Wall has two tiers of rock and is split by a grassy mid way ledge, descent is by walking leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.<br />
<br />
It is possible to only climb the lower tier and to descend by carefully traversing the grassy ledge leftwards to descend past Crumlin Wall.<br />
[[File:Shadow and Bones Wall.jpg|center|thumb|565x565px]]<br />
'''MIDNIGHT GROOVER''' 20m VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th June 2021. ''<br />
<br />
Climb the wide crack/corner left of the pillar past several ledges to the mid way ledge, move right and follow a wide crack to the top.<br />
<br />
'''JOHNNY JUMP UP *''' 20m VS 4c <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 18th October 2020. <br />''Climb the cracked pillar to the grassy ledge. Move right a little and climb the smooth upper wall (crux) using two thin vertical cracks and ignoring easier alternatives.<br />
<br />
'''EMERALD''' * 20m HS <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 18th October 2020.<br />''Climb the next pillar on it's left hand side (VD), climb the steep upper wall 1m right of the arete. <br />
<br />
'''CHASING CARS''' 20m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 17th October 2020.<br />''Climb the crack 5m right of '''EMERALD''' to the grass ledge, move right and finish up the left facing groove on the second level.<br />
<br />
'''BIGOTS IN BUDAPEST''' 20m VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack right of '''CHASING CARS,''' easy to start and difficulty increasing with height.<br />
<br />
Finish at the mid way ledge or up the final groove of '''CHASING CARS.'''<br />
<br />
'''99''' 20m HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
So called because it <nowiki>''</nowiki>had<nowiki>''</nowiki> a flake ! Climb the shallow left facing corner 4m right of '''CHASING CARS''' to the halfway ledge. Climb the face 2m right of the off width crack and finish diagonally leftwards crossing the off width crack.<br />
<br />
'''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' 20m D<br />''Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 18th October 2020.<br />''Climb the chimney 10m right of Chasing Cars.<br />
[[File:Alcove.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''CITY OF ASHES''' 20m HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 5th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
Right of '''MAYA'S CHIMNEY''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack to the half way ledge, finish up a crack line just right of a free standing flake on the left.<br />
<br />
'''CITY OF BONES''' 20m HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
Take the crack and juggy wall just right of '''CITY OF ASHES''' to the halfway ledge, similarly finish up the crack line right of '''CITY OF ASHES.'''<br />
<br />
'''SHADOW HUNTERS''' 20m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 1st May 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the right hand corner of the alcove to the grassy ledge. Traverse left a little passing a large embedded boulder and continue up a left facing chimney/cleft to a ledge. Finish up the next tier of rock to belay after a low dry stone wall.<br />
<br />
'''CITY OF GLASS''' 20m HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the arete 1m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' to the wide grassy ledge. Continue up the wide crack to a narrower ledge, climb up and over a 3m step and take a belay past a low dry stone wall, grade is lowered to S if only the lower arete is climbed to the grassy ledge. <br />
<br />
'''GRISHA''' 20m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 12th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
10m right of '''SHADOW HUNTERS''' there is a niche 3m above the ground, climb the wall right of this to the grassy mid way ledge, continue up a left facing corner on the left and finish over a further left facing corner (3m), take a belay past a low dry stone wall <br />
<br />
==='''Brandon’s Block'''===<br />
[[File:BBBBBBBB.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
Further Right/South a large cracked block protrudes from the escarpment after walking up the hill from the parking area mentioned above.<br />
<br />
'''DON’T CALL ME CUPCAKE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.<br />''Climb the narrow crack and smooth steep slab at the left end of BB. <br />
<br />
'''SETTLERS OF CATAN''' 10m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts (unseconded), 10/7/2020.<br />''Climb into V shaped niche as for '''Violent Love''', climb the left trending crack to an overlap and traverse left to finish more easily up '''dont call me'''.<br />
<br />
'''VIOLENT LOVE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Audrey O’Toole, Barry Watts, 22/7/2019.<br />''Climb into the V shaped niche 4m right of '''Don’t call me….,''' take the rightwards trending crack/groove to the top. A hand crack on the left hand head wall will come in handy higher up.<br />
<br />
'''LET'S GO CRACKERS 2024''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 25/6/2024.<br />''Climb the fist crack, merging with the finish of Violent Love.<br />
[[File:Lets go crackers 2024.svg.jpg|alt=Let's go crackers 2024|center|thumb|Let's go crackers 2024|430x430px]]<br />
'''ROIGHT SAYS FIACHRA''' 8m D<br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 13th June 2021.''<br />
<br />
Start just right of the wide central crack and follow a slabby line around the right of the block and up leftwards to the top.<br />
<br />
'''WILDSTYLE''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O’Toole, Brandon O’Toole, 22/7/2019.<br />''Climb the overhanging corner above '''BB''' by clever use of the slab and wall on the right.<br />
<br />
There are three cleaned closed projects between '''WILDSTYLE''' and '''JAVELIN'''<br />
<br />
'''JAVELIN *''' 16m VS 4c <br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Nice varied wall climbing. Start 20m right of '''RSF''' and below a left facing corner on the upper cliff..<br />
<br />
Climb a steep cleaned wall for 3m to a wide grassy ledge. Climb for 7m past cleaned cracks and a thread to reach a higher ledge, finish up the 6m corner. <br />
[[File:Cattle_Crush.jpg|alt=|center|frameless|553x553px]]<br />
<br />
'''CATTLE CRUSH''' 16m HS 4b<br>''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (alt leads), 6th June 2021. ''<br>A well protected fun outing.<br />
<br />
1 8m VD 100m right of Brandon's Block there is a funnel/gully, climb the right hand side to the grassy ledge.<br />
<br />
2 8m HS Walk 15m left on the grass ledge and climb a vertical thin crack line to a ledge, either finish up the cracked slab at HS or finish up the easy chute/gully in the centre, this later finish reduces the overall grade to S..<br />
[[File:MTP.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''MOHER MIST''' VS 5a<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner (ground up with 2 rests), 13th June 2021. ''<br />
<br />
10m right of '''CATTLE CRUSH''' the mid way ledge decreases in size to 0.5m wide and the escarpment becomes more vertical and continuous. Climb the first faint crack line to the top.<br />
<br />
'''MIND THE POTHOLES''' VS 4c<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 23rd May 2026.''<br />
<br />
15m right of '''MOHER MIST''' there is a shallow groove before you reach a grassy ramp.<br />
<br />
8m 4c climb the shallow groove to the grassy ledge.<br />
<br />
8m VD climb the blocky wall on the right to a vegetated ledge, finish up the short cracked wall above. <br />
<br />
'''THE LOGICAL LINE''' HS 4b <br />
<br />
''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 23rd May 2026.''<br />
<br />
1m right of '''MIND THE POTHOLES''' there is a thin crack, climb this past the grassy ledge and <nowiki>''steal''</nowiki> your way up the remainder of '''MIND THE POTHOLES''', pretty straight so no rope drag.<br />
<br />
300m South or Right of '''Brandon’s Block''' the following routes start off the wide grassy mid way ledge and ignore the broken lower cliff.<br />
<br />
===Beagle Walls===<br />
[[File:Beagle walls left.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''IRPIN''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Start just left of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb cracked wall 1m to the right.<br />
<br />
'''CHERNIHIV''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Start just right of a pillar and climb to the ledge, climb crack 2m to the right.<br />
<br />
'''SUMY''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb crack 3m tight of '''CHERNIHIV''' to the ledge, finish up the wall and crack above.<br />
<br />
'''KHARKIV''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 5th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack left of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge, finish up the thin crack and wall just left of NOT.<br />
<br />
'''NICK OF TIME''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020. <br />''Climb a thin vertical crack to a grassy terrace, finish up a thin crack 3m to the left. Direct finishes are easier but less interesting.<br />
<br />
'''KHERSON''' HS<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Take the leftward sloping crack just right of '''NICK OF TIME''' to the ledge. Climb the groove to the top.<br />
<br />
15m to the South/Right there are..<br />
[[File:Clone_wars.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''CAPTAIN CODY''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.<br />''The left hand crack on the buttress.<br />
<br />
'''CLONE WARS''' ''S<br />Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.<br />''The right hand crack on the buttress<br />
<br />
'''THE JEDI''' S'''''<br />'''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 11th October 2020.<br />''Delicate climbing up a wall brings you to a ledge and alcove, climb the pillar on the right using the wide crack.<br />
<br />
From here on to 30m to the South/Right the bottom section is steep, flakey and smooth while the top section is tantalisingly featured and more solid, an arena for future generations!<br />
[[File:Leacht naHamadan overviww.jpg|thumb|696x696px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:Left_hand_apr.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''HOUNDS OF THE BASKETCASES''' 11m HVS 5a & A1 <br />''Colm Peppard (unseconded), 28th October 2018.<br />''Half way along the 2nd tier there is an obvious corner with a distinct rounded overhang immediately to its left. Climb up the obvious crack running up the left side of the rounded overhang with some strenuous moves. Well protected (& tested - as gear was liberally hung on).<br />
<br />
'''SNOWY'S ESCAPADE''' 11m VS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.<br />''Takes the crack 1m right of the corner. <br />
<br />
'''TINTIN'S BIG ADVENTURE''' 11m S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Tintin Ageby, 6th May 2019.<br />''Takes the right-trending crack 1m left of Banish Misfortune (2m right of the corner). Short and sweet.<br />
<br />
'''BANISH MISFORTUNE *''' 11m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 28th October 2018.<br />''Climb the crack and corner groove 3m right of the corner<br />
<br />
'''SHEEPDOGS’S EXERCISE''' 11m VS/HVS 4c<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.<br />''A harder companion piece to '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''', climb the sustained groove 2m right of '''BANISH MISFORTUNE''' with holds and protection improving towards the top. <br />
<br />
'''BONZI''' 12m D <br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 24th April 2022.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the groove left of '''BONZO''' to the grassy ledge, climb the crack directly beside and above the left facing corner to the top. <br />
<br />
'''BONZO''' 12m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018. <br />''6m right of the corner. Climb the left edge of the slab to a blank wall, traverse left to a grassy ledge and continue up the left facing corner to another grassy ledge, finish up the cracked slab. <br />
<br />
'''DOBERMANS IDENTITY CRISIS''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 18th April 2019.<br />''Climb the easy groove right of '''BONZO''', easy and loose to start delicate to finish.<br />
[[File:Capture2apr2019.JPG|alt=|center|600x600px|First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''']]<br />
<br />
'''STRAY DOGS''' * 12m HVS 5a <br />''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 11/5/2019.<br />''Satisfying, takes the thin crack 1m left of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' to start'''.''' Move up the thin crack to attain the horizontal break. Climb the vertical flake-crack to the niche. Finish above.[[File:Faster.PNG|alt=|center|522x522px]]<br />
<br />
First ascent of '''FASTER THAN THE HOUND'''<br />
<br />
'''FASTER THAN THE HOUND''' * 12m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018.<br />''Take the left hand line past a bulge to the ledge and finish up the wall.<br />
<br />
'''Variation: Arete Finish''' S <br />''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 11/5/2019.<br />''From the ledge, step left to finish up the arete.<br />
<br />
'''WHERE BEAGLES DARE''' * 12m HS 4b <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 28th October 2018.<br />''Climb the right hand crack line past the ledge to the top.<br />
<br />
'''A DREAM OF EASTER BUNNIES *''' 12m HS 4b <br />''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, Tristan Kühn,18th April 2019.<br />''Thin crack line 3m right of '''WHERE BEAGLES DARE'''. <br />
<br />
'''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME''' 12m VS 4c <br />''Colm Peppard, Barry Watts, 28th October 2018.<br />''3m in from the right hand end of the 2nd tier {12m high face**} there is a twin crack close together trending up and leftwards to a slight bowl like indentation in the first clean face of 4the upper wall. Climb up the left side crack with a delicate move near the top. Good protection where needed.<br />
<br />
'''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' 11m VS 4c<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Simon Kühn, 18th April 2019.<br />''Climb the twin cracks 3m right of '''WOLLOX TO WINTERTIME'''.<br />
[[File:Thumbnail22.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''MARIUPOL''' 11m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th March 2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the corner formed by the left side of the big block and finish directly up the wall above. <br />
<br />
'''180''' 11m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. <br />''Right of '''FLUCHT VOR DEM REIFENBEISSER''' there is a big block at half height, climb the groove/gully to the right of this past several ledges, at the final ledge finish up the steep clean wall on the left.<br />
<br />
'''KYIV''' 10m HS <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th March 2022. '' <br />
<br />
Climb the cracked rib between '''180''' and '''DOGS LIFE'''. <br />
<br />
'''DOGS LIFE''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.<br />''Take the cleaned left hand crack to the top <br />
<br />
'''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 18th April 2019.<br />''Take the right hand crack line to the top<br />
<br />
'''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.<br />''Take the crack right of '''PIT BULLS DAY OUT''' to a horizontal break and a blank wall, traverse right into the groove and pull your way up that to finish up the slab. <br />
<br />
'''MAIDENS HAIR''' HS 4b <br />
<br />
''John O'Connor, Sandra O'Regan, 12th June 2022.'' <br />
<br />
Take the right facing corner 3m right of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS'''. <br />
<br />
'''CLOSE CONTACT''' VS 5a <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.'' <br />
<br />
5m right and uphill of '''DOG SHOW TRIALS''' there is a smooth wall split by small vertical cracks, climb the double vertical cracks on the right hand side of this. <br />
<br />
'''DELTA VARIANT''' S <br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Barry Watts, 26th May 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the alcove right of '''CLOSE CONTACT.''' <br />
<br />
Further South/Right the hillside breaks up into three tiers of rock, the lowest tier become steeper and more continuous and the following routes start along here.<br />
[[File:Run of the Fairies area updated.jpg|thumb|559x559px|alt=|center]]<br />
'''SLI NA SIDHE''' HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020. <br />''Thin crack 2m left of '''WESTROPP'S WAY'''.<br />
<br />
'''WESTROPP'S WAY''' D<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020. <br />''Takes the first deep crack/fault in the buttress <br />
<br />
'''SICKLE SWEEP''' HS 4b<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2021.''<br />
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5m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' there is a cave in the cliff at 5m, climb the wide crack to the cave, traverse left along a ledge for 3m and climb diagonally rightwards to the top. <br />
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'''SLAB AND TICKLE''' * S <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 6th September 2020.<br />''8m right of '''WESTROPP'S WAY''' and between two patches of vegetation there is a left curving hanging corner formed by an overlap in the slab. Climb the slab and corner to the top. <br />
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'''RUN OF THE FAIRIES *''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan (1&2), Barry Watts (3), 16/6/2018.<br />''Oughtdarra's first multi pitch climb, start at a prominent cave/crack on the far right of the three tier buttress.<br />1 10m Climb the crack to a grassy ledge.<br />2 7m Bridge your way up the v shaped chimney.<br />3 5m Climb the crescent shaped flakes to the top. <br />
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'''Family Fun Variation:'''<br />''Cearbhall Daly, RoseMarie Daly, 12/9/2020.<br />''2 4b 7m Climb the crack directly in line above the top of pitch one<br />
[[File:RFA.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px|alt=|First ascent of RACE FOR THE ARAS]]<br />
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'''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' S<br />''Barry Watts (1&3), Colm Peppard (2), 27th October 2018.<br />''Start 2m right of '''RUN OF THE FAIRIES''' <br />1 10m Climb the wall past a key shaped crack to a grassy ledge.<br />2 7m Climb the crack 2m right of the v shaped chimney.<br />3 5m Ascend the easy cracks/ramps to the top. <br />3 '''UNIQUE JUMPER FINISH''' HS 4b<br />Climb the thin crack and wall to the ledge and trend right to finish.<br />
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'''LAST CHANCE SALOON''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.<br />''An eliminate that climbs the featured wall 3m right of '''RACE FOR THE ARAS''' starting at the same level.<br />
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'''FIR BOLG''' VS 4c <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 12th September 2020.<br />''Takes the wide crack on the second tier above '''LAST CHANCE SALOON'''.<br />
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The continuous three tier crag ends and the next routes are 20m up a grassy boulder strewn slope.<br />
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'''PILLAR OF JOY''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.<br />''Climb the cracks in the broken pillar, at the second ledge move around to the left and finish up the short ridge. <br />
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'''BACK TO ARAN''' S<br />''Paddy O'Brien, Gerry Galligan, 12th September 2020.<br />''Starts at a short groove, leading on to a leftward-facing arete. Climb both groove and arete. Mind the loose matter above. <br />
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'''TÍR NA PHÚCA''' VS 4c <br />''Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Brien, 12th September 2020.<br />''Directly behind the free-standing pillar at the right-hand end of the recessed wall, is a leftward trending crack. Climb this to the top. <br />
[[File:Topo_for_Finnbhear.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''FRIGGERIFFICO''' * 10m VS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 28th September 2018, ground up with rests.'' ''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 23rd May 2026, free.<br />''Hand crack and cracked wall to top.<br />
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'''POWER SEIZURE''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3rd October 2020.<br />''Start 3m right of '''FRIGGERIFFICO''' and just left of a large block, climb the wall past a steep bulge and move left into a niche and finish more easily.<br />
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'''BLISTER''' 10m HS<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 3rd October 2020. <br />''Climb the corner right of '''POWER SEIZURE''', easy at first and thrutchy to finish. <br />
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'''CHASM RAVE''' 10m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts (unseconded), 28th September 2018.<br />''Climb the steep groove to the grassy ledge, finish up the crack behind.<br />
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'''ROCK AND ROLL''' 10m HVS 5b <br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.<br />''Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above. <br />
[[File:Signal-2022-07-08-23-30-29-971.jpg|thumb|481x481px|alt=|center]]<br />
'''FINNBHEAR **''' 10m HVS 5b <br />
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''David Fahey, Niall O Tuathail, 8th July 2022.''<br />
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Strenuous hand and fist Jamming or lay backing up to the flared chimney, finish straight up from here to discover the cave behind the wall. A great little fight! (definitely harder than it looks!) Finnbhear was the king of the fairies in the west of Ireland, his realm was only accessible through caves or underground passages!<br />
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'''YOUNGLING''' 10m HVS 5b<br />''Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy, August 2011.<br />''The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.<br />
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'''THE ULSTERMAN''' 15m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 6th September 2020.<br />''Gives a fine tour up the right hand ramparts of this wall. Start at a steep hand crack on the right hand side of the crag, climb this strenuously to a ledge, move right and climb another wall to a bigger ledge, traverse right following a wide crack up an airy ridge to the top.<br />
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==Leaba na hAon Bhó==<br />
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[[File:180618.jpg|1300x1300px|thumb|Leaba na hAon Bhó - Panoramic View - Apr 2014|alt=|left]]<br />
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The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.<br />
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It is also possible to approach from Leacht na nAmadan using the car parking details above, walking through the fields in the valley is easier underfoot than traversing the uneven ground directly beneath the cliffs.<br />
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Just to the Left/North of '''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks. <br />
[[File:Capturecod.JPG|alt=|center|700x700px]]<br />
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[[File:LnB 1.jpg|center|thumb|650x650px]]<br />
'''STONE PASTURES''' 8m VS 5a<br />
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''Sile Daly, Barry Watts, 28th September 2025.''<br />
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Takes the slab 5m left '''WOUNDED KNEE,''' step off an embedded boulder and climb the technical slab above.<br />
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'''WOUNDED KNEE''' 8m D <br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12th August 2017.<br />''The left facing corner on the left hand side of the face.<br />
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'''GRAZED KNUCKLE''' 8m HS 4b<br />''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 12th August 2017.<br />''Climb the central crack.<br />
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'''POUNDED KNEE''' 8m D<br />
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''Barry Watts, Sile Daly, 28th September 2025.''<br />
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The right facing groove 5m right of '''GRAZED KNUCKLE'''.<br />
[[File:Wounded Ghee.jpg|center|thumb|Wounded Ghee]]<br />
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'''WOUNDED GHEE''' 8m VS 4c<br />
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''Sile Daly, Barry Watts, 28th September 2025.''<br />
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Takes the slabby wall right of '''POUNDED KNEE''', finish just left of the diagonal crack (crux) in the upper wall.<br />
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'''ROOM OF DOOM''' 8m VD<br />
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''Barry Watts, Sile Daly, 28th September 2025.''<br />
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The right facing groove 3m right of '''WOUNDED GHEE'''.<br />
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200m North of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.<br />
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'''CHIMNEY OF DOOM''' 8m D<br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch, 12th August 2017.'' <br />
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Easy chimney and ideal as a cavers bouldering problem! <br />
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Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, identifiable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.[[File:Grapes.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''MONKEY SHUFFLE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th June 2018.<br />''Climbs the edge 4m left of the right facing corner '''COMIC TIMING''' using a crack on the left and some flakes on the right, high first step to start and easier thereafter.<br />
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'''COMIC TIMING''' 8m HS<br />''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.<br />''There is a right facing corner 10m left of the lightning bolt crack.<br />
Climb the cracked wall 1m left of this.<br />
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'''CORONER'S CORNER''' 8m VD<br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Barry Watts, 31st March 2018.<br />''Climb the shallow right facing corner 4m to the left of the lightning bolt [[File:LNB Grapes 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]'''THE GRAPES OF WRATH''' 8m VS 4b<br />''P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011.<br />''2m to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2m left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't. <br />
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'''PULL LIKE A DOG''' HS 4b<br />
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''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.<br />
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Climb the off width crack and open chimney between The Grapes and Lightning. Tricky start to get standing on chock stone, be gentle with the jammed block at the overhang, exit to the left.<br />
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'''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' 8m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th June 2018.<br />''Climb the wide lightning-strike shaped cleft on sparse protection. Airy.<br />
[[File:Jack.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''FANTAPANTS''' 10m S <br />''Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012.<br />''6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.<br />
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'''STRIPPER''' D <br />''Terry Sommerville, Sinead Johnston, 27th Feb 2020.<br />''Between '''FANTAPANTS''' and '''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' Basically on the gap/crack on the opposite side of '''LIGHTNING STRIKE'''. Loads of great gear and a nice climb to get warmed up on trad.<br />
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'''SLAB OF HEINEKEN''' D<br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.<br />''3m right of '''FANTAPANTS''' there is a two tier slab. Climb this on the right hand side trending<br />
slightly leftwards.<br />
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The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 15m right of the '''LIGHTNING STRIKE''' buttress.<br />
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'''THE BALROG **''' E1 5c<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, September 2011.<br />''Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.<br />
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'''JACK IN THE BOX''' VS<br />''Ciaran Cleary, Dermot Shiels, September 2011.<br />''Climbs the face to the right of '''THE BALROG.'''<br />
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About 5m to the right there is a cracked wall with some grassy ledges,[[File:LNB_HS.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''MUCKSAVAGE CRACK''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.<br />''Climb the cleanest crack on the left, the start is steep.<br />
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About 10m to the right there is another pillar with a handy descent behind. <br />
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'''JUGS WALL''' HS 4b<br />''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.<br />''Climb the wall 1m right of the left edge to the top, the start is steep and there is a good medium/large friend slot in a big jug hold halfway up.<br />
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'''JUGS GALORE''' VS 4c <br />''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.<br />''This climb is 16m left of '''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and a descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top, cleaned Sept 2025 so get on it.<br />
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'''HIGH STEP''' VS 4c <br />''Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan, 02/08/2011.<br />''A fine companion 2m right of '''JUGS GALORE''' pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top, a wobbly but jammed slate of rock is passed half way up, cleaned Sept 2025 so get on it.<br />
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10m further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m long before it ends in a cave/rift.<br />
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'''HOLY COW *''' -S (Mild-Severe)<br />''Marzena Rosiak, Justyna Gruszczyk, 01/06/2025.<br />''It's situated between t''he descent'' and ''Gotta Scratch an Itch''. A short line that follows an obvious crack with good-quality rock. Slightly awkward start near the small tree, then a nice climb with solid placements. Two options to finish. Anchor is set far back. <br />
[[File:HOLY COW Route .png|center|thumb|600x600px|HOLY COW]]<br />
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'''GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH''' * HS 4b<br />''C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011.<br />''Couple of metres left of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS.''' Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top.[[File:LNB WWW 1.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS *''' S<br />''Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011.<br />''10m left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock.<br />
Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.<br />
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'''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' VS 4b <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.<br />''Follows the interesting rib 1m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top. <br />
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'''BÓ DIDDLEY * ''' MVS 4a <br />''Malcolm O'Beirn, Glenn Watson, 19th May 2024.''<br />Straight up the overhang between '''KARMIC RETRIBUTION''' and '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''', follow the curved crack at the top. Start and end a bit harder than '''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' direct start.<br />
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'''PADDY THE PLASTERER''' S<br />''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.<br />''Right of '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS''' the buttress becomes smooth and cracked.<br />
Start as for '''CELTIC TIGER''' for the less intrepid or directly off an embedded block and make bouldery moves to monster jugs which lead up to a small ledge at mid height.<br />
Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CELTIC TIGER''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 26th May 2019.<br />''Takes the right edge of the slab. Start 1m left of '''STALL THE DIGGER''', follow the slab and move right onto the arête when holds diminish, a pointy block in the corner was used once to gain the upper arete. <br />
[[File:LNB_Cave.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''STALL THE DIGGER''' D<br />''John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005.<br />''Takes the right facing corner-groove to the top. <br />
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'''SACRED COW''' D <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 16th July 2011. <br />''Follows the rib 1m right of '''STALL THE DIGGER''' to the top<br />
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'''GREEK BAILOUT''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 31st March 2018.<br />''Long drawn out terms and conditions on Oughtdarra's first traverse route! <br />
Climb '''SACRED COW''' for 3m, traverse leftwards along the narrow ledges as far as '''WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS'''. Two options here going leftwards to the wide crack finish; a high level traverse or a same level traverse.<br />
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'''DONDAGE ''' D<br />''Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith, 13th April 2015.<br />''About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent <br />
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'''JINGLE MAIL''' VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012.<br />''An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.<br />
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'''DO BOTHER''' VD <br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 27/05/2017.<br />''Start at bottom of the wide crack/fault but climb the outside face/arete using the large flake. <br />
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'''MAYBE BOTHER''' VD <br />''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 27/05/2017.<br />''Climb the wide crack/fault. Traverse to '''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' at about 3m.<br />
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'''GOLDEN CIRCLE''' S <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 16th July 2011.<br />''Start 2m left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top <br />
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'''LICK MORE BLOOD''' HS<br />''Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012.<br />''Climb right side of the arete (left facing layback moves), on very sharp holds. This leads to a crack with good hand holds and protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.<br />
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From left to right:<br />
[[File:Leaba_na_haon_bho_central.jpg|alt=|center|600x600px]]<br />
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'''NERVOUS LAUGHTER''' E1 5a<br />''Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, November 2009.<br />''Strenuous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.<br />
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'''GRINGO'S ESCAPE''' 6a HighBall Problem<br />''Colm Shannon, November 2009.<br />''Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here. <br />
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'''FACE PLANT **''' HVS 4c/5a<br />''First ascent Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005.<br />First recorded ascent Colm Shannon, 2009.'' <br />
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Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish. <br />
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'''COCO *''' E1 5b<br />''Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary, 25th July 2011.<br />''Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.<br />
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'''CRUBEEN *''' VS 4c <br />''Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma, 25th July 2011.<br />''Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.<br />
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'''GRACE UNDER PRESSURE''' ** E2 5c <br />''J Healy, G O'Mahony, 15th April 2017.<br />''Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained <br />
[[File:95960014.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]] <br />
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'''LICK THE BLOOD''': VS 4b <br />''Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels, 25th July 2011.<br />''Climbs the arete (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing! <br />
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'''THE MAD VET''' VS 4c <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.<br />''Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish. <br />
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'''TEDS TINKERS ''' HS 4b<br />''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.<br />''Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.<br />
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'''KING OF THE FAIRIES''' * HS 4b <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17th July 2011.<br />''6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish. <br />
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'''Variation: Direct Finish *''' HS 4b <br />''Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood, 31st July 2011.<br />''Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang. <br />
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'''NONO *''' E1 5b<br />''Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen, 26th July 2011.<br />''Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.<br />
[[File:LNHBAchill2.jpg|alt=|center]]<br />
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'''THE CLOSET BREXITEER''' VD<br />''R Daly, J Healy, 30/03/2017.<br />''Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.<br />
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'''THE KNACK''' * HS 4c<br />''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.<br />''Climb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.<br />
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'''SWAMPY JOCKS *''' VD<br />''J Healy, R Daly, 30/03/2017.<br />''Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.<br />
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'''THE KID, HEH''' * S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 6/5/2019.<br />''Start 1m right of '''SWAMPY JOCKS'''. climb the ramp and steep wall and finish up the clean cracked slab above on good but spaced holds.<br />
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'''THE SHNOZ, HEH''' S <br />''Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman, 28/05/2017.<br />''Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.<br />
[[File:Mitch.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]<br />
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Mitch on Mitchin Impossible<br />
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'''TOILET TIME''' VD <br />''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 7/02/2010''.<br />Climb the left corner<br />
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'''THE SHLAB, HEH''' S <br />''Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, 28/05/2017.''<br />Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.<br />
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'''MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE *''' HS 4b <br />''Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''.<br />Follow middle crack.<br />
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'''THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN''' S<br />''S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara Mulango, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017''.<br />Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.<br />
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'''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY''' D<br />L ''Timoney, J Healy, 30/03/2017.''<br />Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.<br />
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'''PIECE OF CAKE''' D<br />''Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.''<br />Start 2m right of '''THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY'''. Climb the obvious crack to the top.<br />
[[File:Darragh.jpg|alt=|center|500x500px]]<br />
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Darragh on Soft Landing <br />
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'''POP''' VD<br />''Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer, 16/04/2017.'' <br />Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.<br />
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'''GLEBE''' VS<br />''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/2017''. <br />Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.<br />
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'''BACK IN THE SHIT **''' HVS 5a <br />''Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely, 07/02/2010''.<br />Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up. <br />
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'''SOFT LANDING''' HVS 5a<br />''Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller, 07/02/2010.''<br />Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. <br />
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Direct Start - E1 5b - ''Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma, 10/08/2013'' - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.<br />
[[File:TheReach.jpg|alt=|center|400x400px]]<br />
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Colm on The Reach<br />
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'''THE REACH **''' E1/2 6a <br />''Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010.<br />''Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top.<br />
Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)<br />
Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.<br />
[[File:Balors Molar.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]<br />
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'''MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE''' VS 4c<br />''Ciaran Cleary, Brian McCarthy, 30/07/2011.<br />''This start 4m right of '''THE REACH''' on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.<br />
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'''WHERES ME FINGER TAPE''' HVS 5a<br />''Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins, 21/05/2012.<br />''2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then traverse left to the arete, follow to the top.<br />
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'''AILL RIGHT NOW''' VS<br />''Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, 16/04/17.<br />''Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above.<br />
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Further right again there is an 8m high free standing boulder called Balors Molar. [[File:Root Canal.jpg|thumb|Root Canal |alt=|center|533x533px]]<br />
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'''ROOT CANAL''' 8m S 4a<br />
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''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023.''<br />
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On the North face of Balors Molar start at the bottom left and climb rightwards over ledges and flakes to the top, a roped traverse by the East ridge seems to be the best available descent route.<br />
[[File:Blood_on_the_rack.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]<br />
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Blood on the Rack HS<br />
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'''BLOOD ON THE RACK''' 8m HS<br />''David Atkinson, Jono Redmond, 02/01/2021.<br />''The cracked wall on the South face of Balors Molar'''.''' Start left of the boulder and follow the broken crack to the top on interesting holds.<br />
[[File:20210125_145255.jpg|alt=|center|450x450px]]<br />
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Line of Mobility Issues VS<br />
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'''MOBILITY ISSUES''' VS<br />''Jono Redmond, David Atkinson, 02/01/2021.<br />''100m to the right of Blood on the rack, there is a large upside down pyramid of rock amongst some trees. Mobility Issues starts at the base of a crack. Climb 3m into a scoop underneath an overhang and make a tricky move right into a chimney. Venture inwards and exit up and at the back of the chimney via a tight squeeze!<br />
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==Cottage Buttress==<br />
A small outcrop 100m East of and behind Leaba na hAon Bhó, the routes are short but there are clean well protected lines to climb on. <br />
[[File:Cb 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|alt=]]<br />
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'''HOWLIN' WOLF''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''<br />
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Wide crack/chimney past a good chockstone.<br />
[[File:Cb1.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''PEIG''' D<br />
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''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 26th March 2023''.<br />
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A pleasant groove at the grade.<br />
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'''TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 26th March 2023''.<br />
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Climb easily to platform and follow the crack above and right of the scramble.<br />
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Project.<br />
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The next crack line to the right is a cleaned project.<br />
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'''GIVE ME SHELTER''' * HS<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1st July 2023.''<br />
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Pleasant and well protected. Climb the easy left facing corner to a sloping shelf, finish up the steeper cracks above (crux). <br />
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Ballynahown<br />
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Moved to Ballynahown page as this is a crag in development in a different townland to Oughtdarra</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5240Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T19:12:43Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
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<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN'S ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 25m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a right facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge, hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the right facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
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100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
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Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
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''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
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''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
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Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5239Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T19:11:30Z<p>Barry watts: /* Skull Buttress */</p>
<hr />
<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN'S ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 25m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a right facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge, hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the right facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
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100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
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Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
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''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
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''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
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Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5238Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T17:50:47Z<p>Barry watts: /* Skull Buttress */</p>
<hr />
<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN'S ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 25m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a left facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge and a large flake at head height, steady yourself and hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the left facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
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100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
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Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
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''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
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''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
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Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5237Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T17:45:15Z<p>Barry watts: /* Skull Buttress */</p>
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<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN'S ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 20m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a left facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge and a large flake at head height, steady yourself and hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the left facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
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100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
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Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
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''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
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''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
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Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5236Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T14:55:22Z<p>Barry watts: /* Far East side */</p>
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<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN'S ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe but steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 20m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a left facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge and a large flake at head height, steady yourself and hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the left facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
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100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
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Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
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''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
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''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
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Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Aill_na_Cronain&diff=5235Aill na Cronain2026-09-21T14:50:35Z<p>Barry watts: /* East Side */</p>
<hr />
<div>====Introduction====<br />
'''CLIMBING NO LONGER ALLOWED HERE. See Access section below.'''<br />
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This crag lies about 400m north of Ailwee Cave and is clearly visible from the upper car park. <br />
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Once down the descent gully it is worth moving about 50m out from the crag from where the skull shape of Skull Buttress becomes obvious. The routes in this area are self-evident from their names, with Skull Slab the right cheek. The East Side is north of the descent. To the north of the Skull Slab and the East Side areas the rock continues for another couple of hundred m's, the Far East Crag details the climbs on that section of rock. The crag ends with some large boulders suitable for bouldering.<br />
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15/4/2024 Folks landowner has been in touch with climbing.ie and is very dissatisfied with climber behavior and is banning climber access once again, at a guess its probably people taking the shortest route possible to the cliff across his field system and/or parking on narrow roads. Barry Watts<br />
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==Access==<br />
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Peregrines are known to nest here, so best to avoid from the beginning of March to the end of July. Nests with eggs have been seen here in 2016 and 2017.<br />
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'''As of April 2024, the landowner has revoked permission to access this crag, so please respect their wishes. NO CLIMBING until further notice.'''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: large">Aill na Crónain Topo ==<br />
''Aill Na Cronain''<br />
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==<span style="font-size: x-large">Far East side==<br />
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[[File:far left wall.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''MAGIC CARPET RIDE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />The first obvious crack line on the left edge of the buttress. The crux is getting off the magic carpet ledge and into the upper crack.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S BIG TRIP''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.<br />''Takes the slab and cracks 2m right of magic carpet ride, crux is gaining the first grassy ledge, side runners can be placed in the magic carpet ride crack to protect the start.<br />
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'''ALADDIN'S CRACK AND WALL&nbsp;'''16m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Takes the wide crack and steep wall 4m right of ''Magic Carpet Ride.''The steep final wall can be protected by placing gear in the crack on the left.<br />
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'''ALADDIN’S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.<br />''Start at the bottom right hand side of the detached buttress-pinnacle. Move up the short cleaned arête and the longer corner to arrive on the broad ledge, finish up the steep shallow right facing corner on the left to exit as for Butcher’s Block.<br />
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'''BUTCHER’S BLOCK''' HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/10/2015.''<br />A nice line spoilt by a pile of ominous looking overhanging blocks on the right wall. Climb the leftward trending ramp left of the striking arête,take care of the blocks on your right. At the ledge move left for 3m&nbsp;climb the right facing corner.<br />
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'''PERIGEE CORNER''' S<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Climb the wide crack corner finishing steeply over the jammed ‘wrecking ball block’.<br />This corner may feel open and exposed or a well protected classic, depending on mood.<br />
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'''The Scenic Variation''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 27/9/2015.<br />''Climbs the wide crack in the corner for 4m and traverse left along a ramp to finish directly up the wall.<br />
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'''BRIAN BORU WALL''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 30/4/2016.''<br />Start 3m right of Perigee corner, follow the twin cracks steeply to a ledge&nbsp;and continue up the next set of twin cracks to the top.<br />
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'''CIMA DELLA QUEVA''' 18m VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Bouldery bridging and crack jamming at the start, climb the overhanging short corner 4m right of Brain Buru Wall to a ledge, finish up the right trencing crack/flake.<br />
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'''SPELEO HIGHWAY''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 30/4/2016.<br />''Start at the steep arête left and downhill of the large chimney cave.&nbsp;Climb&nbsp;steeply up the arete and short wall to reach a grassy ledge. Finish up the crack which&nbsp;trends leftwards and upwards out of the overhanging cave.<br />
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'''EXIT PURSUED BY A BEAR''' 20m HS 4a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climbs directly up the face of the cave right of Speleo Highway.<br />
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'''CRON'S CAVE''' Grade a clambering<br />''First Ascent A man followed by a bear<br />First Recorded Ascent Conor Warner, November 2015.''<br />Clamber with care into the cave and exit easily through the roof opening. <br />
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'''WHITE KNIGHT''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.<br />''A steep gymnastic line with good protection and holds where it matters. Start on a blunt arête of rock. 3m left of Cath Deirgne, climb over ledges until just below the overhanging Knight block which is left of the ivy curtain. Surmount this block directly, and finish up the groove.<br />
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'''REGGAELATION''' 20m S 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8/10/2016.<br />''Climb the long corner groove right of White Knight, the last 5m are the crux.<br />
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'''COROFIN TRAMP VARIATION''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8/10/2016.<br />''Takes the steep wall and crack 2m right of the Reggaelation finish.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE''' 16m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 27/9/2015.''<br />Start 2m left of Farranshone and follow the steep crack that is formed by the left hand side of the pillar mentioned above, step right to finish at the overhanging headwall.<br />
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'''CATH DEIRGNE DIRECT''' VS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Finish up the overhanging wall.<br />
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'''FARRANSHONE''' * 16m S <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />A fine route on good rock, it starts just left of the ash tree and takes the obvious continuous arête and pillar. Climb the wide&nbsp;crack (harder than it looks) to reach a ledge and continue up the pillar.<br />
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'''COROLLA GROOVE&nbsp; '''HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.<br />''This route ascends the cracked groove, left of Corolla Crusaders. Start as for Corolla Crusaders to the grassy terrace. Move up the same arete for 2m before traversing delicately left into the groove (crux) to&nbsp;finish directly&nbsp;up the wall.<br />
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A variation exists to climb the overhang directly to gain the groove. Awaiting FA.<br />
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'''COROLLA CRUSADERS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Start 1m left of the tree, climb the wall to the grassy ledge. Continue up the textured wall on good holds just right of the arête.<br />
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[[File:righthand.jpg|800px]]<br />[[File:DSC01801.jpg|none|thumb|786x786px|Restless natives]]<br />
'''RESTLESS NATIVES''' 16m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 27/9/2015.''<br />Starts at the steep twin crack 2m right of the ash tree. Climb the crack, cross the ledge and finish up the wide crack in the slab above,&nbsp;medium to big gear essential.<br />
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'''PAMELA ANDERSON''' * HS <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />A fine companion piece to Restless Natives. Start right of Restless Natives to the grassy ledge. Continue directly over a delicate step via a narrow&nbsp;crack to a stance under the upper arête. Finish up the attractive-looking crack in the wall just left of this upper arête. She’s a star!<br />
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'''ARTICLES&nbsp;OF WAR '''18m HVS 5a<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/6/2016.''<br />Start 2m left of ''The Lug Walk'' and just left of a hawthorne tree''.'' Boulder up the wall just left of the arêteto reach better holds and the wide grassy terrace. Continue up the next short wall by the right hand-side to reach a ledge. Step left and finish up the steep smooth headwall by the prominent crack (crux).&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;''&nbsp;''<br />
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'''THE LUG WALK''' D<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/10/2015.''<br />Long and easy but with good climbing for the grade. Start at the wide stepped corner groove 10m right of the tree, follow the groove line to the upper sloping ramp. Ignore the wide off-width crack on your left. Instead, take the arête 2m to it’s right, climb the arête to finish.<br />
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'''GLENMALURE LODGE FINISH''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 4/10/2015.''<br />Once in, it's&nbsp;tricky to get out of&nbsp;! Finish up the wide off-width crack.<br />
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'''WILDCAT GROWL '''25m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/6/2016.''<br />Follow the prominent arête just right of the start of ''The Lug Walk''.On reaching the large recess scramble up the front crag line to finish.&nbsp;'''&nbsp;'''<br />
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'''SUPER MOON BLOW''' VS 4c<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 3/10/2015.''<br />Climb the steep groove (crux) 6m right of The Lug Walk to gain the terrace ramp. Move to the dark corner at the back of the ramp. Climb this corner to finish<br />
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==East Side==<br />
'''CENTENARY CRACK '''10m VD<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/5/2016.''<br />Easy and enjoyable. Takes the left-trending crack line 1m left of Cleft.<br />
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'''CLEFT''' 10m VD<br />''I. Graham, K. Price, 4/5/1971.''<br />Catapult-shaped corner, 30m left of the descent. Finish up left or direct over the jammed boulder.<br />
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'''BLOODLINE '''10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/5/2016.''<br />Takes the crack line 3m right of Cleft to gain a niche. &nbsp;Veer right to avoid the overhang which is capped with ivy and a loose block.<br />
[[File:DG.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
'''AILEEN's ARETE&nbsp;'''10m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />20m left of the descent and 4m right of the hawthorn tree there is a 10m high smooth wall. Climb the left hand side of the smooth wall to the sentry box/gully, Finish up the juggy arête on the left.<br />
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'''EAST SIDE STORY''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 1/11/2015.''<br />Takes the slim crack in the smooth wall 2m left of Fright.<br />
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'''FRIGHT''' 10m S<br />''I. Rowe, K. Price, 14/8/1974.''<br />The left hand of the twin cracks in the wall just left of '''DE GAULLE''', old school Severe but steep and well protected.<br />
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'''DE GAULLE''' 10m MS<br />''K. Price, I. Rowe, 14/8/1974.''<br />The arete just right&nbsp;of Fright. Awkward at the top.<br />
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==Skull Buttress==<br />
About 25m at its highest, the buttress looks remarkably like a skull when seen from a distance. Route names and descriptions refer to features of the skull.<br />
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[[File:Skull.jpg|600px|File:Skull.jpg]]<br />
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'''HOLLOW, MAN''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just left of "eustachian tube" in a short corner, climb this up to a short steep wall underneath a small left facing corner made up of hollow flakes. climb this to top.<br />
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'''EUSTACHIAN TUBE''' 20m S<br />''P. Coakley, M. McCormack, 1982.''<br />A traversing line with interesting moves for the grade and a real feeling of mountaineering and travelling. Start just right of a left facing corner at ground level, climb the easy cracked slab for 8m to a ledge and a large flake at head height, steady yourself and hand traverse right on ledges and ivy clad flakes until holds and gear appear/improve, climb diagonally right to finish up the left facing top corner on the right.<br />
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'''LOCKJAW''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''F Cox, C Warner, September 1999.''<br />Start 2m-3m right and down the hill from EUSTACAIN TUBE, there is a shallow groove leading up to a slab directly below the finishing corner of DIAGONALS, climb this confidently to a large pocket (large cam) rockover delicately and so reach the ledge and finish up the corner.<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' appears to be a duplication of '''LOCKJAW.'''<br />
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'''CREST OF A WAVE''' 20m HVS 5a<br />''H. Hennessy, J. Boyce, 24/9/2013.''<br />Start just right of "lockjaw" at a thin curving crack, climb this to a good hold then move right along the lip of the overhang to meet "eureka" follow this to top.<br />
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'''MONKEY BUSINESS''' 20m E2 5c<br />''H.Hennessy, R. Sohel, 24/9/2013.''<br />A direct start to "crest of a wave" climb the center of the overhang passing three horizontal breaks, protection difficult to arrange.<br />
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'''DIAGONALS''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 12/12/71.''<br />Start at the foot of the tortuous ridge just left of the foot of the buttress. Climb the ridge which is the left edge of the smooth cracked slab by weaving past the obstacles, left and right. At 17m step left and climb the same corner as Eustachian Tube.<br />
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'''EUREKA''' * 25m HS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Climbs the same ridge as Diagonals but directly. Finish straight (crux) up the headwall just right of the arête (right eye socket).<br />
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'''SKULL SLAB''' ** 25m VD<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 4/9/71.''<br />This slab is the main feature of the buttress and is the true right cheek of the skull. Smooth, cracked and well protected. Start at the lowest point of the buttress and gain the lowest part of the slab at 4m diagonally left. Climb the slab and exit through the left eye socket above right.<br />
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'''Variation''' finish 5b Step left via awkward and perplexing move onto the high slab on left and climb headwall above.<br />
'''Variation''' forehead finish 5a F Cox, B Watts, Jan 1999 High up on Skull slab and before you exit out the Left eye socket it is possible to go up the ‘forehead’, 2m left of the slab and marked by a sapling on the right there is a small blank corner, finish boldly up this and the wall above.<br />
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'''SKULL'S NOSE''' 25m S<br />''M. McCormack, P. Coakley, 1982.''<br />Start at the lowest point of the buttress. The nose is the arête on the right of Skull Slab. Gain the arête from below right. Exit just left of the top of Skull Slab by a break in the headwall.<br />'''DIRECT START''' 4b ''M. Keogh, H Hennessy, 24/9/2013.'' Start directly below the arete underneath an overhang, climb up the right facing corner and out through the roof to meet skull's nose. <br />
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'''LEFT CHEEK''' 25m S<br />''K. Price, I. Graham, 1/1/72.''<br />Start just right of the lowest point of the buttress. Follow broken, easy rock on the right of the nose and gain Skull Slab just below its exit at the top.<br />
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'''RAVEN''' ** 20m E3 6a<br />''P Owens, D Brosnan, May 2007.''<br />Start just left of boulder and underneath the overhanging prow. Climb easy ground to gain a groove. Go up this for a few metres to where an overhanging break goes out right. Arrange wires here and traverse out right with increasing difficulty. Reach out right to grasp jug on the nose of the overhang and swing out to slab for a breather. Continue easily up the arête to the top.<br />
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[[File:TheSmirk.JPG|600px|TheSmirk.JPG]]<br />
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'''THE SMIRK''' 22m & 18m S<br />''C and A Warner, 6/6/13.''<br />A two pitch enjoyable atmospheric traverse from right to left across ‘Skull Buttress’.<br />1. Start as for 'Left Cheek' and climb the enjoyable corner above to ‘Skull’s Nose’. Traverse across ‘Skull Slab’ to the corner half way up ‘Diagonals’. Belay here.<br />2. Follow ‘Diagonals’ left around the arête and up to a series of good ledges. Hand traverse left across ‘Eustachian Tube’ to easy ground.<br />
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[[file:Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg|600px|Aill Na Cronain Sunbane & Mayday.jpg]]<br />
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'''SUNBANE''' * 20m E1 5c<br />''T. Ryan, 30/4/83.''<br />This is the deep V-groove with an overhang at one-third height on the right side of the buttress.<br />
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'''MAYDAY''' ** 20m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />The right-slanting crackline right of Sunbane. Start as for Sunbane. Escape right at 2m with difficulty onto a short slab. Bridge over the overhang and step left. The strenuous crack above is the crux.<br />
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'''SKULL'S EAR''' 20m D<br />''D. Rowe, I. Rowe, 1972.''<br />The rib on the extreme right of the buttress.<br />
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'''BUTTERFLY''' 16m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />6m right of Skull Buttress under the appropriately shaped skyline. Gain the obvious fault line to finish (crux) between the wings.<br />
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'''SKULLDUGGERY''' 8m S<br />''D. Doyle, D. McMahon, 30/4/83.''<br />The obvious south-facing chimney in the wall 100m right of Skull Buttress. Pleasant.<br />
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==Falla Uachtarach==<br />
About 50m back from the top of Skull Buttress, at the next scarp line, is Falla Uachtarach with the following routes.<br />
[[File:S & S.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|600x600px]]<br />
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[[File:Grren.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''SANTA's LIST''' 10m S <br />''David Brady, Darragh Heneghan, 4/3/2016.''<br />20m left of '''DOM''' look for a leaning block of rocks left of '''Diamond Left'''. Climb the crack line to the right alongside and follow the crack line to the top.<br />
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'''DIAMOND LEFT''' 12m S '''Diamond Right''' 12m S <br />''Darragh Heneghan, David Brady, 4/3/2016.''<br />Diamond shaped looking piece of limestone visible from the top of Aill Na Cronain. Picture included. Climb up to the corner to the base of the diamond. Follow crack line for finish. Diamond Right gives a suitable alternative. Loose rock in places.<br />
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'''GREEN IS THE VALE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/11/2018.''<br />Start in the bay where the '''Diamond's''' begin, turn the overhang on the right by it's right hand side, continue up the wall and wide crack to top.<br />
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20m to the right there is <br />
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'''DOM''' 10m S <br />''Ian Francis, Phil Ryan, 05/5/13.''<br />Small boulder moves lead to a tight chimney. Follow the corner crack to top out.<br />
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'''CÉ’N SCÉAL''' 9m S <br />''Shane Walsh, Terrance Glancy, 05/5/13.''<br />Treat rock with care. Climb the flaky groove direct.<br />
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'''CREVICE CLAMP''' 14m S <br />''Lar McLachlan, Shane Murtagh, 05/5/13.''<br />Steep start leads to crescent shaped flake. Continue directly with interest to small grass ledge and scramble up the short wall.<br />
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'''SAINTS AND SINNERS''' 14m S <br />''Terrance Glancy, Aodhnait Carroll, 05/5/13.''<br />Tricky start leads to interesting and varied climbing on sound rock. Pass a ledge at 2/3 height and ascend a short crack to belay.<br />
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'''JENNIE''' 16m VD<br />''Lower section Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.<br />Upper section Barry Watts, Stefan Reiman, 28/10/2017.<br />''Takes the crack 2m right of '''Saints and sinners''' with a tricky start, at two third height move right for 2m and take the leftward trending wide crack and corner to the top.<br />
<br />
100m to the right the cliff rises up again giving the following routes'''.'''<br />
[[File:Sept 2023.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''REALT NA MARA''' 14m VD<br />''Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016.''<br />Delightful climbing on the left hand end of the buttress, climb a series of wide cracks and ledges to the top.<br />
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'''PIER HOUSE BATS''' 12m HS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the shallow corner 3m right of '''Realt Na Mara''', finish up the corner/chimney with difficulty.<br />
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'''BEAN MHEIRICEÁNACH''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 9/10/2016''<br />Start as for '''Pier House Bats''', continue up the pleasant crack in the headwall.<br />
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'''MAGIC MÁLA''' 12m S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />Climb the cracked arête past the tree to a ledge, finish steeply up the crack (crux).<br />
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'''ENGAGEMENT''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the crack 1m right of the arete to a ledge, traverse right for 3m and climb the short left facing corner to a higher ledge, finish up the short steep headwall.<br />
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'''AUTUMN GLORY''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />5m right of the arête climb the cracked wall with steep moves to start.<br />
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'''ST MUNCHIN'S BREAKFAST''' 11m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 8/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start between '''AG''' and '''FACILE''' below a wide crack, climb the wall right of this crack to a ledge where '''FACILE''' swings to the left, instead finish up the smooth cracked wall above.<br />
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'''FACILE''' 12m D <br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/10/2016''<br />Takes the corner 4m right of '''Autumn Glory''', follow the corner past a number of ledges to finish.<br />
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'''CLASH OF THE ASH''' 12m HS <br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/10/2016.''<br />2m right of '''FACILE''', climb the clean groove passing the over hang on the right, finish easily. <br />
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'''FEAR GORM''' 12m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Conor Warner, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climb the groove 2m right of '''CLASH OF THE ASH'''.<br />
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'''CÚINNE DANA''' 12m S 4a<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 9/10/2016.''<br />Climbs the shallow corner 1m right of '''Fear Gorm''', at the ledge continue up the short steep wall to finish.<br />
[[File:Cuinne Dana.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''DETENTION''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start below and right of '''CÚINNE DANA''', scramble up to the steep left facing corner, climb leftwards to a shelf and finish directly as for '''CÚINNE DANA'''.<br />
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'''SUSPENSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Climb the sreep wide crack 3m right of '''DETENTION'''.<br />
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'''EXPULSION''' S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22/8/2023.''<br />
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Start 1m right of '''SUSPENSION''', climb on small flat holds to reach a shelf and rest, veer slightly right up the cracked wall to finish.<br />
[[File:P eggs.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
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'''POULATAGGLE EGGS''' 8m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 4/11/2018.''<br />50m to the right there is a lone holly tree. Climb the wall to the right.<br />
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==Small Wall==<br />
This pleasant 12m high wall is located halfway between Skull Buttress and the Ailwee Cave car park. All the routes are excellent, the best being Demon Dim and Poetic Majesty.<br />
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[[File:Small_crag_Routes.jpg|800px]]<br />
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'''I DON'T BELIEVE IT!''' * 12m E1 5b <br />''V. Cleary, J. Magee, May 2010.''<br />10m left of the small wall there is a broken section with one obvious line up clean steep rock. Start on a short ramp and follow curving crack to horizontal break and then continue to the top. Nice technical movement.<br />
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'''CRACKITY JONES''' 12m D<br />''D. Heneghan, D. O'Shea, 17/1/12.''<br />2m left of Rotteroute, starting between two boulders on the ground, following the obvious crack up alongside the pillar. Top out just left of the overhanging slab.<br />
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'''ROTTEROUTE''' * 12m HS<br />''D. McMahon, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Straight up from the leftmost triangular block on the ground. Follow the crack left of the large flake.<br />
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'''GROTTOROUTE''' * 12m S<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/83.''<br />Step off the right-hand triangular block at the grotto (niche) and go diagonally left to a crack on the right of a large flake. Straight to the top.<br />
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'''DEMON DIM''' ** 12m HVS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />Start at the grotto and climb directly to the square-cut nick at the top.<br />
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'''FOLLYERUPPER''' * 12m HVS<br />''D. Walsh, 4/8/83.''<br />Start 3m right of the grotto. A high step onto the hollow flake. Weave left, then right to take the central overhanging bulge just left of the V-shaped nick in the skyline (crux).<br />
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'''THE SWEDISH AFFAIR''' HVS 5b<br />
<br />
''D. Owens, J. Hawkins, 19/9/1995.''<br />
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Start on the hollow flake of '''FOLLYERUPPER''' and climb directly up to and through the bulge, avoiding the crack on the right and the footholds on the left.<br />
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'''PRICELESS''' * 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, D. Doyle, 30/4/83.''<br />Start at the foot of the crack on the right of the buttress. Step off a rectangular block, then diagonally left to the central overhanging bulge which is turned on the right (crux). Stretchy.<br />
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'''THE SHIRE''' HVS 5a/5b<br />
<br />
''J. Hawkins, D. Owens, 19/9/1995.'' <br />
<br />
Starting on the point of the rectangular block, climb the wall directly to the V-shaped nick on the skyline avoiding the crack on '''POETIC MAJESTY''' and holds on '''PRICELESS.'''<br />
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'''POETIC MAJESTY''' ** 12m VS<br />''D. Walsh, P. Duggan, 30/4/1983.''<br />The crack on the right of the wall above the rectangular block.<br />
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'''COVENANT''' 12m HS<br />''T. Ryan, 1983.''<br />The arête on the right of Poetic Majesty. Step left at half height. Climb the cracks to the top.<br />
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[[Category:Pages with broken file links]]</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Slieve_Rua&diff=5234Slieve Rua2026-09-14T18:04:51Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
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<div>This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle. <br />
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Summer 2026 Update. <br />
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There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.<br />
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[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Lower Buttress===<br />
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.<br />
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[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]<br />
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[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]<br />
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[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]<br />
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'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025.<br />''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock. <br />
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'''TILE STYLE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.<br />
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'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a<br />''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too. <br />
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[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]] <br />
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'''BROKEN BUM''' S <br /><br />
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. <br />Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''. <br />
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'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.''<br />About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack. <br />
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[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]<br />
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Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.<br />
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'''SELF ISOLATION''' D<br />''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack on the far left.<br />
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'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.''<br />Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.<br />
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'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'''<br />'''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.<br />
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'''TIRIG''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'''''<br />'''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds. <br />
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'''COVID CRACK''' VD'''<br />'''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.''' <br />
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'''C19-REUNION''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.<br />
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[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.''<br />This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.<br />
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[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
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'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.'''<br />'''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.<br />
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'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''<br />Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.<br />
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'''CANADA CRACK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.<br />
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'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).''<br />4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.<br />
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
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'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.<br />
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'''LOCKED IN''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.<br />
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'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.<br />
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'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''<br />
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Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.<br />
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'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.<br />
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[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
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'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD<br />
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''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''<br />
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Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.<br />
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'''FACE OFF''' VD<br />
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''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
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Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''<br />
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'''MAIRE RUA''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.<br />
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'''EVENING LIGHT''' D<br />''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.''<br />Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.<br />
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'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.''<br />Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.<br />
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'''THE LOWLANDS''' S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.<br />
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]<br />
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />
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3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish. <br />
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'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
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2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top. <br />
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'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c <br />
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''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.'' <br />
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Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start. <br />
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[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]] <br />
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'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS <br />
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''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
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Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds. <br />
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'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD <br />
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''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
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Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner. <br />
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'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D <br />
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''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
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Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up. <br />
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'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top. <br />
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==Upper Buttress==<br />
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]<br />
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.''' <br />
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'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line. <br />
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[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]<br />
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'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.<br />
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'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' <br />Takes the crack line in the middle.<br />
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'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.<br />
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'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.<br />
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'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
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Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges. <br />
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'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S<br /> ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
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Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.''' <br />
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'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S <br />
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''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
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Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right. <br />
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]] <br />
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'''SUSAN''' HS<br />
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''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
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''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
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Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.<br />
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'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b<br />
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''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''<br />
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Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.<br />
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'''CAT CALL''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.<br />
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'''CAT SCRAPES''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''<br />
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Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.<br />
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'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]<br />
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.''<br />4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.<br />
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'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS<br />
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''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''<br />
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Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.<br />
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'''BLOCK OFF''' 10m S<br />
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''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
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Post rock fall the right corner of the alcove offers a pleasant climb.<br />
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'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''<br />
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Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.<br />
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'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the inverted V right of the bay.<br />
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'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.<br />
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'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
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Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.<br />
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[[File:Lets crumble.svg.png|alt=Let's crumble topo|frameless]]<br />
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'''LET'S CRUMBLE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
<br />
About 20 metres to the right there is a hand crack with a dead bush at three-quarters height. Climb the crack treating the rock either side of it with care.<br />
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|l]]<br />
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'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D<br />''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''<br />
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''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
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A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.<br />
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'''PATRICK''' 10m VD<br />
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''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
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Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.<br />
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'''HAMLET''' 10m VD<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.<br />
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On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.<br />
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[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]<br />
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'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Tackle the slab by thoughful and commiting but delightful moves to the top.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Slieve_Rua&diff=5233Slieve Rua2026-09-13T16:52:03Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
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<div>This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle. <br />
<br />
Summer 2026 Update. <br />
<br />
There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Lower Buttress===<br />
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.<br />
<br />
[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]<br />
<br />
'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025.<br />''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock. <br />
<br />
'''TILE STYLE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.<br />
<br />
'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a<br />''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too. <br />
<br />
[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]] <br />
<br />
'''BROKEN BUM''' S <br /><br />
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. <br />Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''. <br />
<br />
'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.''<br />About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack. <br />
<br />
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]<br />
<br />
Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.<br />
<br />
'''SELF ISOLATION''' D<br />''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack on the far left.<br />
<br />
'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.''<br />Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.<br />
<br />
'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'''<br />'''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.<br />
<br />
'''TIRIG''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'''''<br />'''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds. <br />
<br />
'''COVID CRACK''' VD'''<br />'''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.''' <br />
<br />
'''C19-REUNION''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.<br />
<br />
[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.''<br />This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
<br />
'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.'''<br />'''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.<br />
<br />
'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''<br />Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.<br />
<br />
'''CANADA CRACK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.<br />
<br />
'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).''<br />4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.<br />
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.<br />
<br />
'''LOCKED IN''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.<br />
<br />
'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.<br />
<br />
'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.<br />
<br />
'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
<br />
'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.<br />
<br />
'''FACE OFF''' VD<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
<br />
Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''<br />
<br />
'''MAIRE RUA''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.<br />
<br />
'''EVENING LIGHT''' D<br />''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.''<br />Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.<br />
<br />
'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.''<br />Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.<br />
<br />
'''THE LOWLANDS''' S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.<br />
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]<br />
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish. <br />
<br />
'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
<br />
2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top. <br />
<br />
'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c <br />
<br />
''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start. <br />
<br />
[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]] <br />
<br />
'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds. <br />
<br />
'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner. <br />
<br />
'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up. <br />
<br />
'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top. <br />
<br />
==Upper Buttress==<br />
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]<br />
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.''' <br />
<br />
'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line. <br />
<br />
[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]<br />
<br />
'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.<br />
<br />
'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' <br />Takes the crack line in the middle.<br />
<br />
'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.<br />
<br />
'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.<br />
<br />
'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges. <br />
<br />
'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S<br /> ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.''' <br />
<br />
'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S <br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right. <br />
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]] <br />
<br />
'''SUSAN''' HS<br />
<br />
''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.<br />
<br />
'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.<br />
<br />
'''CAT CALL''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.<br />
<br />
'''CAT SCRAPES''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.<br />
<br />
'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]<br />
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.''<br />4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.<br />
<br />
'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.<br />
<br />
'''BLOCK OFF''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
<br />
Post rock fall the right corner of the alcove offers a pleasant climb.<br />
<br />
'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.<br />
<br />
'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the inverted V right of the bay.<br />
<br />
'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.<br />
<br />
'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.<br />
<br />
[[File:Lets crumble.svg.png|alt=Let's crumble topo|frameless]]<br />
<br />
'''LET'S CRUMBLE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
<br />
About 20 metres to the right there is a hand crack with a dead bush at three-quarters height. Climb the crack treating the rock either side of it with care.<br />
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|l]]<br />
<br />
'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D<br />''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
<br />
A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.<br />
<br />
'''PATRICK''' 10m VD<br />
<br />
''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.<br />
<br />
'''HAMLET''' 10m VD<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.<br />
<br />
On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.<br />
<br />
[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]<br />
<br />
'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Slieve_Rua&diff=5223Slieve Rua2026-08-23T18:45:29Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>This hill North East of Mullach Mor is straddled by many rocky buttresses, the largest buttress (Upper Buttress) is on the South side just below the summit Lower Buttress is 150m further South West. Approach by the red path from Cooloorta trail head, maps for the walking paths and trail head are available to download from the Burren National Park website https://www.burrennationalpark.ie/. Walk along the red path for about 20 minutes following way marks traversing the hillside and gaining height gradually, the path goes through a gate in a stone wall and strikes left or South West for Mullach Mor, leave the path here, walk straight ahead uphill and North West for 7 more minutes. Upon reaching the crest of the hill the Lower Buttress should be visible on your right, Upper Buttress is 150m further above and behind. In the picture below the Lower Buttress is the cliff at the bottom of the marked rectangle while the Upper Buttress is in the marked rectangle. <br />
<br />
Summer 2026 Update. <br />
<br />
There is now a free shuttle bus running from Corofin to Gortalecka Cross Roads (9-5) to facilitate visitors to the National Park, this is a longer route (1 hour plus change) than the one described above but it may suit the car less or car reticent. Just google Burren and Cliffs of Moher Explorer | Cliffs of Moher Shuttle Bus for this and information on this service and others in the area.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl Rua.jpg|600px|File:Sl Rua.jpg]]<br />
<br />
===Lower Buttress===<br />
The first three climbs are on a west facing section of the lower buttress. The wall is vertical and about 8m high. Nice shade on a hot morning.<br />
<br />
[[File:Lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=Location of Tile Style|frameless|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:Table for one.svg.png|alt=Image and topo for Table for one|frameless|533x533px]]<br />
<br />
[[File:West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua.png|alt=West facing cliff on lower buttress Slieve Rua|frameless|800x800px]]<br />
<br />
'''TABLE FOR ONE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 17th June 2025.<br />''Around the corner to the left of Tyle Style. Use the leftward slanting and horizontal crack. Solid, textured rock. <br />
<br />
'''TILE STYLE''' S<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''The corner at the left end of the wall with the large flake. Tri-cams might be useful in the horizontal cracks.<br />
<br />
'''FLAPPER''' HS 4a<br />''Cormac Flynn, 16th May 2025.<br />''Follows a thin crack past horizontal cracks, left of a white section of rock in the centre of the cliff. Some loose rock on the top out; sharp too. <br />
<br />
[[File:Broken cuckoo.png|alt=Broken Cuckoo|frameless|500x500px]] <br />
<br />
'''BROKEN BUM''' S <br /><br />
''Barry Watts, Ingolf Kühn, 8th June 2025''. <br />Climb the crack left of '''BROKEN CUCKOO'''. <br />
<br />
'''BROKEN CUCKOO''' VD<br />''Cormac Flynn, Megan Flynn, 16th May 2025.''<br />About 50m right of Flapper. Follow the wide crack. <br />
<br />
[[File:Route_topos.jpg|alt=|533x533px]]<br />
<br />
Climbs are between 7m and 8m in height.<br />
<br />
'''SELF ISOLATION''' D<br />''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack on the far left.<br />
<br />
'''SHORT BUT SHARP''' S<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 20th June 2021.''<br />Between Self Isolation and Social Distancing climb the obvious corner. Scramble up the clean rib of rock to below the corner. Climb the steep short corner on sharp but good holds. Crux is protected.<br />
<br />
'''SOCIAL DISTANCING''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.'''<br />'''''Crack behind the large thorn tree, there are also good holds and gear placements left and right of this crack.<br />
<br />
'''TIRIG''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.'''''<br />'''Start up '''COVID CRACK''' for 3m, step left and climb the wall on good holds. <br />
<br />
'''COVID CRACK''' VD'''<br />'''''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />The next obvious crack 3m right of '''SOCIAL DISTANCING.''' <br />
<br />
'''C19-REUNION''' VD<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Bridge up the walls of the gully right of '''COVID CRACK'''.<br />
<br />
[[File:Whats love got to do with it.png|alt=Image of the climb What's love got to do with it|frameless|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''WHAT'S LOVE GOT TO DO WITH IT''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 25th May 2023.''<br />This is at the left end of a large clean section of wall. Climb the straight crack in the right facing corner behind some hazel bushes. Good holds above the crack lead to the top.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl_1_Capture.png|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
<br />
'''WINTER LOCKDOWN''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.'''<br />'''''Climb the right facing corner with a tricky start.<br />
<br />
'''THE IDES OF MARCH''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020.''<br />Take the wall and crack 1m right of a right facing corner.<br />
<br />
'''CANADA CRACK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the groove right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' and finish up the right slanting crack.<br />
<br />
'''MASKED UP''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21st June 2020 (Ground up 1 rest point). Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 6th August 2023 (Free).''<br />4m right of '''THE IDES OF MARCH''' a thin crack starts 2m above the ground, climb this, crux in the first 4m.<br />
[[File:Sl lower middle 1a.png|alt=|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''MANDATORY QUARANTINE''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the chimney right of the thorn tree to a small ledge and continue up the crack above.<br />
<br />
'''LOCKED IN''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 12th June 2020.''<br />Wide crack 2m to the right of '''MANDATORY QUARANTINE'''.<br />
<br />
'''SHOTS FOR ALL''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 15th April 2021.<br />''Climb the crack 1m right of '''LOCKED IN''' to ledge, finish up crack to the left.<br />
<br />
'''HAZEL'S MAZE''' S<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, 15th April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack 1m right of '''SHOTS FOR ALL''' to a ledge, finish up the chimney above.<br />
<br />
'''LITTLE LEAGUE''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />Between '''Hazel's Maze''' and '''Ivy League''' climb the crack up into the corner. Climb the outside edge of the detached block to the ledge at two thirds height and continue straight up the broken crack.<br />
<br />
[[File:Sl_Rua_lower_right.jpg|alt=|frameless|577x577px]]<br />
<br />
'''IVY LEAGUE''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Paolo Chavez, Brandon O'Toole, 13th August 2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the line left of '''FACE OFF'''.<br />
<br />
'''FACE OFF''' VD<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
<br />
Climb the crack left of '''MAIRE RUA.'''<br />
<br />
'''MAIRE RUA''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />Climb the clean slab left of '''EVENING LIGHT''' to a foot ledge, finish leftwards on big holds.<br />
<br />
'''EVENING LIGHT''' D<br />''Conor Warner, 18th June 2020.''<br />Cracked wall 2m left of '''THE LOWLANDS'''.<br />
<br />
'''MIDDAY IN THE MIDLANDS''' VS 4b<br />''Ingolf Kühn, Barry Watts, 8th June 2025.''<br />Flaky slab just right of '''EVENING LIGHT''', thread runners in places will boost confidence.<br />
<br />
'''THE LOWLANDS''' S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21st June 2020.''<br />Pleasant left facing corner on the far right.<br />
[[File:SL RHS.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px|alt=]]<br />
'''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole,'' ''23rd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
3m right of the '''THE LOWLANDS''' there is a boulder leaning against the cliff, climb above the boulder to a ledge with vegetation at head height move diagonally (crux) leftwards to finish. <br />
<br />
'''GRETTA'S STRUGGLE''' VS 5a<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, David Brosnan,'' ''23rd April 2021''.<br />
<br />
2m right of '''CLIMATIC BREAKDOWN''' there is an overhang 2m above the ground with a vertical crack above. Climb the crack and the face on the left of it to the top. <br />
<br />
'''CLIMATE REVOLUTION''' HS 4c <br />
<br />
''Tom Van Rensburg, David Brosnan, 23rd April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the crack 2m right of '''GRETTA's STRUGGLE''' through a steep start. <br />
<br />
[[File:Far right lower buttress..png|alt=Route photo for Where is he going? The Man in the Yellow Hat, and George was curious.|frameless|614x614px]] <br />
<br />
'''WHERE IS HE GOING?''' HS <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up rock beneath ivy choked crack (just right of '''CLIMATE REVOLUTION'''). Pull through small overhang on positive holds. <br />
<br />
'''GEORGE WAS CURIOUS''' VD <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up crack beneath right facing corner. Mantel onto ledge and finish up corner. <br />
<br />
'''THE MAN IN THE YELLOW HAT''' D <br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Ada Flynn, 17th July 2023.'' <br />
<br />
Follow up left trending crack to ledge. Finish straight up. <br />
<br />
'''ODE TO MOCKLER''' D<br />''S. Byrne, J. Heaney, 12th June 2024.''<br />1m right of The Man in the Yellow Hat climb the right tending crack to the ledge at 1.5m height. From the ledge follow the crack to the top. <br />
<br />
==Upper Buttress==<br />
[[File:Updated Slieve Rua upper crag.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px|alt=]]<br />
'''WHO NEEDS HOT ROCK''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the pocketed slab left of '''TRUST THE FAIRIES.''' <br />
<br />
'''TRUST THE FAIRIES''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Takes the crack beneath the big boulder, about halfway up move left to left to tackle the easier crack line. <br />
<br />
[[File:Listen to the elves.png|frameless|465x465px]]<br />
<br />
'''LISTEN TO THE ELVES''' 15m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow the rock right of the crack with the small hazel bush. Finish up the cracked slab above the small ledge.<br />
<br />
'''FAIRY FLAKES''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.'' <br />Takes the crack line in the middle.<br />
<br />
'''GO BIG OR GO HOME''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 22nd April 2021.<br />''Climb the cracked wall between '''Fairy Flakes''' and '''Airy Fairy'''.<br />
<br />
'''AIRY FAIRY''' 15m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the right slanting wide crack to a ledge, continue straight up.<br />
<br />
'''ASTRAL VOYAGER''' HS<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the wall just left of the arete past two small ledges. <br />
<br />
'''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' S<br /> ''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the recess 1m right of '''ASTRAL VOYAGER.''' <br />
<br />
'''PFIZER DRIVER''' S <br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Barry Watts, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the line 2m right of '''JITTERY JOHNSTON''' to a ledge, finish up the wall on the right. <br />
[[File:SUSAN.jpg|center|thumb|518x518px]] <br />
<br />
'''SUSAN''' HS<br />
<br />
''First ascent Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the left hand of two rightward trending crack/groove lines.<br />
<br />
'''CAT WALL''' HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Ciara Wall, Tara Matthews, 05/06/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the obvious crack between '''SUSAN''' and '''CAT CALL'''. Finish up the same wide crack as '''CAT CALL'''.<br />
<br />
'''CAT CALL''' HS<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Climb the rib to the left of Cat Scrapes. Finish up the wide crack on good holds.<br />
<br />
'''CAT SCRAPES''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the corner, difficulty increasing with height.<br />
<br />
'''EXPLODING KITTENS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Maya Van Rensburg, Audrey O'Toole, Tom Van Rensburg, 16th April 2021.'' Climb the protruding block right of '''CAT SCRAPES''' to a small dirty ledge. Continue up the slabby wall right of the arete.[[File:Sl Rus.jpg|thumb|alt=|none|Brandon O'Toole starting out on EXPLODING KITTENS]]<br />
[[File:Slieve Rua upper right hand.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' 10m S<br />''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 20/9/2019.''<br />4m left of '''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' there is another buttress, this route takes the single to double cracks on the right hand side of it.<br />
<br />
'''ROCKALANCHE''' 10m HS<br />
<br />
''Audrey O'Toole, Barry Watts, 22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Right of '''DIVIDE AND CONQUER''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand crack of this alcove, the right hand crack can be useful for footholds and swallows big gear but take care with some suspect blocks at mid height there.<br />
<br />
'''BLOCK OFF''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
<br />
Post rock fall the right corner of the alcove offers a pleasant climb.<br />
<br />
'''BOFEY QUINN'S ARETE''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 27/5/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the cracked arete left of the inverted V.<br />
<br />
'''BOFEY QUINN'S COULOIR''' 10m HS<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />Climb the inverted V right of the bay.<br />
<br />
'''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' 10m S<br />''Barry Watts, Geraldine Murphy, 16/6/2017.''<br />2m to the right of '''BQC''' climb the rib on the right and enter the wide crack.<br />
<br />
'''THE GREAT FLOOR FOOD ADVENTURE''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, Brandon O'Toole,'' ''22nd April 2021.''<br />
<br />
Climb the corner right of '''SAMBA BY THE GORT RIVER''' to the large ledge and finish up the slabby wall beyond.<br />
<br />
[[File:Lets crumble.svg.png|alt=Let's crumble topo|frameless]]<br />
<br />
'''LET'S CRUMBLE''' 8m VS 4c<br />''Cormac Flynn, Andy Wonnacott, 24th July 2025.''<br />
<br />
About 20 metres to the right there is a hand crack with a dead bush at three-quarters height. Climb the crack treating the rock either side of it with care.<br />
[[File:Clean slab.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px|l]]<br />
<br />
'''CLEAN SLAB''' 10m D<br />''First ascent'' ''David Walsh, Paddy O'Brien, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
''First recorded ascent'' ''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />
<br />
A few metres to the right of '''The Great Floor Food Adventure''', there is a wonderfully cracked slab with a large boulder barely hanging on at the bottom. Climb up to the slab by avoiding the precarious boulder. It is diff climbing beyond the boulder height.<br />
<br />
'''PATRICK''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Paddy O'Brien, David Walsh, 4/8/2022.''<br />
<br />
Climb the rib immediately right of '''CS'''.<br />
<br />
'''HAMLET''' 10m D<br />''Cormac Flynn, 21/6/2023.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to the right of '''PATRICK'''.<br />
<br />
On the very right end of the Upper Buttress the rock offers some scrambles and easy climbs.<br />
<br />
[[File:Squeezier Slieve Rua.png|alt=Topo of Squuezier. Slieve Rua, Upper Buttress|frameless]]<br />
<br />
'''SQUEEZIER''' 10m S<br />''Cormac Flynn, 23/5/2025.''<br />Follow up broken rock and cracks to a clean slab at half-height. Follow this to the top.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5222Maamturks2026-08-21T11:26:42Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.<br />
<br />
Upper slab<br />
[[File:Img 2 1787311410407.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
'''Giorraí onn triúr bó thar''' ??<br />
<br />
''Martin Boner June 2024''</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:Img_2_1787311410407.jpg&diff=5221File:Img 2 1787311410407.jpg2026-08-21T11:26:16Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>IT</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5220Maamturks2026-08-21T11:20:24Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.<br />
<br />
Upper slab<br />
<br />
'''Giorraí onn triúr bó thar''' ??<br />
<br />
''Martin Boner June 2024''</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5219Maamturks2026-08-21T11:19:06Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.<br />
<br />
Upper slab<br />
<br />
Giorraí onn triúr bó thar ??<br />
<br />
Martin Boner June 2024</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5218Maamturks2026-08-21T11:18:22Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.<br />
<br />
Upper slab<br />
<br />
Giorraí onn triúr bó thar ??<br />
<br />
Martin Bonner June 2024</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5217Maamturks2026-08-18T18:18:00Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J3.jpg|thumb]]<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:J3.jpg&diff=5216File:J3.jpg2026-08-18T18:17:41Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>veer right</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5215Maamturks2026-08-18T18:12:22Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|thumb|667x667px|alt=|center]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5214Maamturks2026-08-18T18:08:23Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
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[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
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'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
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On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5213Maamturks2026-08-18T18:07:39Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
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<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
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Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
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Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
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[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
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'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
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On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5212Maamturks2026-08-18T18:07:14Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
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<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
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'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
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On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5211Maamturks2026-08-18T18:06:41Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
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<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
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'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
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''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5210Maamturks2026-08-18T18:05:33Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /><br />
<br />
<br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5209Maamturks2026-08-18T18:04:55Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]][[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /><br />
'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5208Maamturks2026-08-18T17:59:37Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg (Hill of Woe) at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way (West of Maam Bridge) at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours, lower down the approach is steep and boggy but the scenery and solitude are splendid once you get on to the higher rocky slopes. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]]'''Just up around the corner''' 18m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brandon Watts, Audrey Watts, 11/7/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the right of the lower slab there is a small overhang at 4m. Start left of the small overhang below a triangular hold, climb a faint vertical crack upward from this hold past 5 or so horizontal breaks, when holds and protection fade scamper right for 5m and ascend to the terrace via a niche. Descend rightwards off the terrace to descend. Further climbing possibilities off the terrace abound.[[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5207Maamturks2026-08-18T17:36:20Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px|General area layout]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px|satellite image]]<br />
[[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5206Maamturks2026-08-18T17:32:53Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of 2 steep clean quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, to approach park on the Western Way at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley, attack the steep North slopes of the Bin and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
[[File:J1.jpg|left|thumb|667x667px]]<br />
[[File:J2.jpg|thumb]]<br />
<br /></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:J2.jpg&diff=5205File:J2.jpg2026-08-18T17:32:35Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>j2</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:J1.jpg&diff=5204File:J1.jpg2026-08-18T17:31:30Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>start</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5203Maamturks2026-08-18T17:04:44Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
==Failmore Slabs==<br />
An area of steep quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522, park on the Western Way at the Failmore River bridge. Walk NW up the Failmore River valley and scramble your way up to the slabs, 1.5 to 2 hours. <br />
[[File:FS.jpg|center|thumb|430x430px]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:FS .jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]<br />
The first route is on the lower slab.<br />
[[File:FS 1.jpg|center|thumb|630x630px]]<br />
<br /></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:FS_1.jpg&diff=5202File:FS 1.jpg2026-08-18T17:04:07Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>2 slabs</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:FS_.jpg&diff=5201File:FS .jpg2026-08-18T17:02:23Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>closer map</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:FS.jpg&diff=5200File:FS.jpg2026-08-18T17:01:10Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>area shot</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5199Maamturks2026-08-18T16:32:12Z<p>Barry watts: /* Failmore Slabs */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br>''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br>Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br>1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br>2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br>3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br>4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br>5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br>6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br>''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br>Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br>1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br>2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br>3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br>4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br>''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br>Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br>1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br>2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br>3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br>4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br>''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br>This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br>1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br>2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
== Failmore Slabs ==<br />
An area of Quartz slabs on the North of Bin Mhairg at an elevation of 580m Grid ref 903522</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Maamturks&diff=5198Maamturks2026-08-18T16:20:08Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Mám Ochóige==<br />
<br />
Location - The crag is at grid reference L 876 532 near Mám Ochóige one mile from the road. on west flank of col between Knocknahillion and point 2305, below and west of lake on the Maamturk ridge The crag is not too high up and often in the sun. It gives a good alternative to Binn an tSaighdiúra.<br />
<br />
Approach - The crag is about a mile from the road and visible from the road up a short valley. The crag is steeper than it looks. The obvious feature is a large wall about two-thirds of the way up, above a ledge, reached by a traverse from the left. Better routes would be possible approaching and climbing the wall more directly.<br />
<br />
'''Deceit and Deception''' 189m S<br><br />
''T. Kelcey, Fenner (alternate leads)''<br><br />
Start at base of crag under steep short wall 24m. to the right of prominent overhang and massive detached block.<br><br />
1. 24m. Climb wall, trending leftwards, then finishing rightwards on heather ledges. Peg belay.<br><br />
2. 30m. Scramble up heather and loose ledges in a faint gully, beneath an overhanging wall. Nut belay.<br><br />
3. 39m. Climb left-hand side of overhang, then one above, move left to second overhang, then rightwards up a slab onto heather ledges. Continue up easily to a triangular heather ledge in a corner. Peg belay.<br><br />
4. 24m. Traverse delicately right on brittle holds across to heather ledge beneath large steep wall which is main feature of crag. Flake belay.<br><br />
5. 30m. Move up fingery wall to left of overhang, then move left, up to a detached block, then rightwards diagonally up to a ledge. Peg belay.<br><br />
6. 42m. Continue up to top of climb on heather and rock outcrops. Scramble to finish.<br />
<br />
''The next climb goes directly up the best parts of the crag and gives a good solid clean VS, apart from a chossy approach pitch. The crag is often in the sun, not too high up and only a mile from the road down a pleasant valley. It is probably a good alternative from the Ben Corr routes.''<br />
<br />
'''From Apathy to Paranoia''' 133m VS<br><br />
''T. Kelcey/J. Wheaton (alternate leads)''<br><br />
Start at the slabs 10m right of the obvious pinnacle/detached block on the left side of the base of the crag.<br><br />
1. 45m Climb pleasant slabs for 15m onto heather ledges, then scramble up into a gully and ascend this to where it ends at the foot of a leaning wall. Nut belay (end of pitch 2 of Deceit & Deception).<br><br />
2. 15m (4a) Traverse diagonally up right through awkward steep rock onto an obvious heather terrace below an overhanging wall. Enormous obvious spike belay.<br><br />
3. 30m (4a) Cross the overhang on good holds 3m left of the spike. Continue up on clean steep slabs to the long horizontal wall. Flake belay (end of pitch 4 of Deceit & Deception).<br><br />
4. 43m (4b) From 3m right of the belay climb straight up the wall to the right hand end of an obvious downward-pointing overlap. Flake crack Friend runner. Go awkwardly over a slight bulge to reach good holds and then continue up exposed but less steep clean rock to ledges. Peg belay. A spectacular pitch. Scramble up to the lake above to finish.<br />
<br />
''Note: the following two climbs were first published in New Climbs 1982.''<br />
<br />
'''Dallamollóg''' 127m VD<br><br />
''Nick. Lynam (1), L. Convery (2), J. Lynam (4). 8.5.1982''<br><br />
Start from the grassy platform just left of the lowest point of the crag. This appears to be about 30m right of the start of Deceit & Deception.<br><br />
1. 40m Climb straight up slabs to a big heathery ledge, the difficulty increases with height.<br><br />
2. 27m Climb up behind the belay to a ledge. Climb the overhang and continue up mixed rock and heather to the big grassy bay in the middle of the crag.<br><br />
3. 30m Traverse easily right across the grassy bay and walk right along the grass ledge below the overhang as far as an obvious weakness.<br><br />
4. 30m Go up right on doubtful flakes for about 5m >From underneath a wall go left up a little slab which brings you out above the main overhang. Continue up a rib on good holds until it peters out under good vegetation. Scramble up to a ledge and block belay. Scrambling leads to the top of the crag.<br />
<br />
'''Lazy Bed''' 88m HVS<br><br />
''A. Macfarlane (2), D. Stelfox (1). 28.5.1989''<br><br />
This route takes a more or less direct line up the middle of the crag between From Apathy to Paranoia, Deceit and Deception and Dallamullog. Start by scrambling up to the bottom of the second tier of rock in the middle of the crag.<br><br />
1. 40m, 4a. Straight up a series of short tiers interspersed by heather ledges to belay at a small recess below a steeper wall.<br><br />
2. 48m, 5a. Up wall on good holds to heather ledge. Up to bottom of small overhanging roof with good 'Friend' runner in horizontal crack, below bulge. Up over bulge on good incut holds to final easier wall. Scramble to top.<br />
<br />
''Some slabs on the side of this hill facing the Lough Inagh road are about 30m high and provide some problems of Diff. to VD standard. Many other long easy routes have been made which verge on scrambling. So new route claims on the central section of the Turks should be treated with caution.''<br />
<br />
== Failmore Slabs ==</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Rathborney_Valley&diff=5197Rathborney Valley2026-08-17T09:37:45Z<p>Barry watts: /* RATHBORNEY VALLEY / CROAGH NORTH */</p>
<hr />
<div>==RATHBORNEY VALLEY / CROAGH NORTH==<br />
<br />
[[File:rathborney.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
Interim guidebook: [[Media:Rathborney_Valley.doc]]<br />
<br />
A crag at Croagh North /Burrenwee (near Newtown Castle) in the Rathborney Valley in the Burren directly west across the Ballyvaugan/Lisdoonvarna Road from Ail na Cronan (Ailwee, Skull Rock). The crag is very accessible (less than 5 minute walk north from Rathborney valley road. The grades so far vary from V. Diff to HVS and are in general 8 to 15m high. There’s a very distinctive natural rock formation, the Sphinx (locally known as the Hanging Rock), in the right hand side of the crag. The crag will be a good alternative to the more exposed crags in the area when the weather’s poor. The crag, which is generally south, south west facing extends for about 450m. The co-ords are 120900E, 205470N and is about 100m OD. This preliminary guide does not mean right of way. Treat rock in places with extreme care (loose). Keep main road and gate entrances clear. Limited parking available at Rathborney graveyard. Up lane to main road turn right and then left up along private farm lane. (permission to access the lands yet to be sought from landowner). Close gates behind you and do not climb over them.<br />
<br />
TBC= route topped roped and cleaned, requiring lead. There are several potential new lines to be explored at the crag.[[File:Craoghcraglayout.JPG]]'''Goat's Wall'''<br />
<br />
1. An Poc Bán VS 5a 10m. <br>Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 8th July 2012 <br>Takes a thin crack on the wall, 3m left of the Cranebill arete. Crux at 3m.<br />
<br />
<br />
2. Cranebill S 14m. <br>Paddy O'Leary, Gerry Galligan, 17th June 2012 <br><br />
Takes a line right to left across the prominent arete. Starts right of the arete up an obvious corner crack. Traverse left onto arete, crossing the edge and move up leftwards on the main wall, avoiding large detached blocks on the edge, to finish left of flat overhanging loose blocks at the top.<br />
<br />
3. King Puck S 10m. <br>Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Leary, 17th June 2012 <br> 4m to the right of Cranebill is a blocky wall with a very defined one inch vertical crack. Take the crack to the top, mindful of loose blocks.<br />
<br />
4. Prague Direct S 12m. <br>Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8th July 2012<br><br />
6m right of King Puck this line takes the prominent crack left of the overhang.<br />
<br />
5. Bye Bye Boston S 12m. <br>Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan <br> <br />
3m right of Prague Direct. Move up the groove over the wide ledge and trend right, beneath an overhang, to finish up the wall on the right. <br />
<br />
<br />
'''Far Left'''<br />
<br />
1. John Doe* HVS 5a 12m <br>Barry Watts, Conor Warner, April 2004<br>To the far left of the crag at the bottom of the grass ramp, climb the obvious steep crack at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical crack, past a small overhang on the right and to the top.<br />
<br />
2. The Fugitive V. Diff 12m <br>Barry Watts, Radu Toma, April 2010<br><br />
A few meters to the right of John Doe is an obvious shallow corner. Climb this taking care of some loose / hollow sounding slabs. Take care. Red flowering bush during September.<br />
<br />
3. Project<br>Behind the trees is a 18-20m high cliff. One definite route in corner to right of holly tree at half height. Above are loose large flakes. Care advised. (not climbed yet)<br />
<br />
'''Raven’s Zone'''<br />
4. Bill MacSway* HS 4b/ 4c 13m <br>Barry Watts , Conor Warner 19/1/04<br><br />
<br />
Start on small block under vertical wall with disjointed slab to right with hand hold. Up to ledge 4b/ 4c. Up to ledge (abandoned nest) under fantastic corner. Climb the corner good gear to top.<br />
<br />
<br />
5. Dirty Thirty V.Diff 13m <br>Conor Warner, Barry Watts 19/1/04<br><br />
Start to the right of Bill MacSway up to grass ledge to steep short wall, up to another ledge under steep wall. Up wall to top.<br />
<br />
<br />
6. Project<br><br />
To the left of Comet is a smooth steep cliff that leads to good crack and to top. (not climbed yet)<br />
<br />
<br />
7. Comet* S 4a 10m <br>Malcolm O'Beirn 2005<br><br />
10m to the right of Bill MacSway is a good corner. Easy at first and then a good steep corner crack with good hand and foot jamming, to the top. Hollow sounding rock towards the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
8. Boot Size S 10m <br>Malcolm O'Beirn 2005<br><br />
Immediately on the right of Comet is a deep chimney / crack. Body jam to top.<br><br />
'''Variation - ''' Stepping Out S <br>Gerry Galligan, Paddy O'Leary, 17th June 2012 <br><br />
Halfway up the chimney step out right onto the pinnacle. Continue up ledges to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
9. Hair Ball, VS 5a 10m <br>Malcolm O'Beirn 2005<br><br />
To the right of Black hole is a definite arête. Hard opening overhanging moves (5a) using crack on right and thin foot flake on left leads to less steep terrain to the top of Boot Size.<br />
<br />
<br />
10. Minibar, S 16m <br>Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 8th July 2012. <br><br />
Takes the left-sided arete, 15m right of Hair Ball (between the two large patches of ivy). Start at the toe and climb rightwards into the obvious vertical crack. Reach a wide ledge and scramble up the wall to finish. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Watts Pillars'''<br />
<br />
10. Bob's route V. Diff 10m <br>Robert Nelson 2005<br><br />
The broken wall to the left of Jack in the Box.<br />
<br />
<br />
11. Jack in the Box, HVS 5a 12m <br>Malcolm O'Beirn, Niall McCurry July 2007 <br><br />
When approaching from the farm lane, this obvious route is directly in line. Start on vertical wall at very thin shallow crack. Move to right and up sloping ledge below overhanging chimney. Climb chimney (3-4m) and exit to the right. (The pillars in this area have the appearance of the statues on Easter Island.)<br />
<br />
<br />
12. Project <br><br />
Wall to the right of Jack in the box finishing up between overhanging chimney. Little or no gear. Loose Rock at top.<br />
<br />
<br />
12.5 Pardon Megrahi 12m VD <br> G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 6/8/2012<br><br />
Start up the steep groove immediately left of the pillar. From its top scramble up to the base of the detached flake on the right. Step up onto this and finish up the short wall above.<br />
<br />
<br />
13. Cacophony* VS 5a 12m <br>Barry Watts, Conor Warner April 2004<br><br />
15m to the right of Jack in the Box is a definite buttress / pillar (ivy covered on the right) . Start on the bottom left of the pillar at steep face / corner. Up Corner with excellent moves and out onto right onto steep face. Move left up onto top of sloping overhang and onto face to the left side of the pillar and use horizontal cracks to finish.<br />
<br />
<br />
14. Twin Cam S 4a 9m <br>Conor Warner, Barry Watts April 2004<br><br />
15m to the right of Cacophony slightly up hill is a pair of cracks separated by wide flake. Up this to top using both cracks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The Sphinx/Hanging Rock'''<br />
<br />
'''To the right of the crag is a fantastic balancing narrow detached block (7m high) on a narrow pedestal, standing proud of the main cliff. This feature (“the Sphinx”, locally known as the Hanging Rock) is the left boundary on the right-most section of the crag.'''<br />
<br />
<br />
xx. Carter's Curse S 10m <br>Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 8th July 2012 <br> <br />
This is the first crack in the wall, starting 3m left of Ra Ra Re. Short and sweet.<br />
<br />
<br />
15. Ra Ra Re *VS 4c 9m <br>Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th April 2008 <br><br />
An excellent little route at the left end side of the Sphinx Area. Obvious crack / groove to the left of the small bush / tree. Start on small holds on the left and work up into crack and up. Clean.<br />
<br />
<br />
16. Tut Tut (S) 9m <br>G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 5/8/2012<br><br />
Start immediately right of the small thorn-bush. Move up leftwards to a groove and up this to a ledge at its top. Follow the crack above to finish.<br />
<br />
<br />
17. Cairo-Practor *S 4a 9m <br>Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th April 2008 <br><br />
A good route. Obvious crack / groove immediately to the right of the small bush / tree. Up crack to small overhang in groove. Above easier on clean slope in deep grove cut<br />
<br />
<br />
18. Seth Upon HS 4b 9m TBC <br><br />
Tougher than it first looks. Obvious crack / groove immediately to the right of the Cairo-Practor. Up groove to small ledge on left and thin block (yellow) on right. Crux to get above grove onto face and directly to the top. Treat rock with care nearer top. (Small wedge of petrified tree route near top).<br />
<br />
<br />
18.5 Tahrir Square HS(4b) 9m<br> G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 5/8/2012<br><br />
Start below and left of the small protruding block in an area of golden lichen. Climb to reach a jug just above the block. Scamper up to reach a higher block and establish yourself on the lower block Climb more easily to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
19. Just Giza V.Diff 12m Jindra Kaplicka, <br>Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 8th July 2012 <br> <br />
Immediately to the right of Seth Upon in broken looking bay of yellowish rock. Takes the groove up right-hand side of the bay.<br />
<br />
<br />
20. Pharaoh’s Prow HS 4c 10m TBC <br><br />
The left prow of a deep steep narrow gully. Overhanging start onto steep pillar and little ledge with very small holly bush. More easily onto the top. <br />
<br />
<br />
21. Cleo’s Diff 10m TBC <br><br />
The deep steep narrow gully behind a tall thin thorn bush. Up carefully taking great care of the much loose rock.<br />
<br />
<br />
22. Lovely Luxor HS 4b 10m <br>Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 13th April 2008<br><br />
To the right of Cleo’s is a steep 10m high buttress. At right side of buttress climb into left trending crack after slightly overhanging start. Up steeply to crack to the left of corner and on to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
22.3 Arab Spring HS(4b) 12m <br> G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon 5/8/2012<br><br />
Start in a bay right of Lovely Luxor. Climb over jammed blocks to ledge. Up cracked wall to base of clean triangular slab and up left side of this to the top.<br />
<br />
<br />
22.6 ??? HS(4c) 12m <br> G. Galligan (not seconded) 5/8/2012<br />
Start as for Arab Spring. From the top of the blocks move up and right to a grassy ledge. Climb the broken crack above and then the left-trending crack at the right side of the clean triangular slab.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''25m to the right from Lovely Luxor near the corner end of the crag is a final clean buttress with three short routes in three bays as follows:'''<br />
<br />
<br />
23. Dea-Sceal S 4a 7m TBC<br><br />
Short Fist wide crack in right side of left bay. Enjoyable.<br />
<br />
<br />
24. Dusty Rhodes S 4a 8m TBC<br><br />
Short grove in left side of middle bay. Enjoyable.<br />
<br />
<br />
25. Arawisha S 4a 8m TBC <br><br />
Start in corner from block and work out right over slight bulge to top in right bay. Enjoyable.<br />
<br />
<br />
Note: X=possible new route.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:1FarLeft.jpg]]<br />
FAR LEFT 1<br />
<br />
[[File:2FarLeft2.jpg]]<br />
FAR LEFT 2<br />
<br />
[[File:3HighCliff1.jpg]]<br />
HIGH CLIFF 1<br />
<br />
[[File:4HighCliff.jpg]]<br />
HIGH CLIFF 2<br />
<br />
[[File:9Raven3.jpg]]<br />
RAVEN'S ZONE 1<br />
<br />
[[File:10Raven.jpg]]<br />
RAVEN'S ZONE 2<br />
<br />
[[File:11Raven2.jpg]]<br />
RAVEN'S ZONE 3<br />
<br />
[[File:12Raven1.jpg]]<br />
RAVEN'S ZONE 4<br />
<br />
[[File:5Middle4.jpg]]<br />
MIDDLE 1<br />
<br />
[[File:6Middle.jpg]]<br />
MIDDLE 2<br />
<br />
[[File:7Middle3.jpg]]<br />
MIDDLE 3<br />
<br />
[[File:8Middle2.jpg]]<br />
MIDDLE 4<br />
<br />
[[File:13Watt'sPillar2.jpg]]<br />
WATT'S PILLAR 1<br />
<br />
[[File:14Watt'sPillar.jpg]]<br />
WATT'S PILLAR 2<br />
<br />
[[File:15TwinCam.jpg]]<br />
WATT'S PILLAR 3<br />
<br />
[[File:16TheSphinx2.jpg]]<br />
THE SPHINX/Hanging Rock 1<br />
<br />
[[File:17TheSphinx1.jpg]]<br />
THE SPHINX/Hanging Rock 2<br />
<br />
[[File:18RightWing.jpg]]<br />
RIGHT WING 1</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Fanore&diff=5196Fanore2026-08-16T19:33:36Z<p>Barry watts: /* Introduction */</p>
<hr />
<div>===Introduction===<br />
A long low limestone cliff ranging in height from 3m to 14m. It is about 600m above and behind St Patrick's Church/Fanore National School. Park at Murrough Bridge, there are a few spaces on the grassy verge of the Khyber Pass road. Walk up the road towards the Pass for 200m and there is a stile on the right hand side, climb over this and head up the rocky hillside until you spot the escarpment line. Alternately for the South most climbs there are a few parking spots at the national school however on school days it's best to park in the public beach car park and cut up through the fields.<br />
[[File:Fanore layout.jpg|center|thumb|700x700px]]<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:Fanore.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]The first climbs are on the far left (as you face the cliff) and have a north westerly aspect to them. They run from right to left.[[File:Ice cream parlour.jpg|center|thumb|568x568px]]<br />
<br />
'''ICEBURGER *''' (1) 14m HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb steeply to the platform, climb the crack in the laid back slab and move right to finish.<br />
<br />
'''CHOCK A LOT *''' (2) 14m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start left and just lower down from the rock platform. Climb the cracked wall and finish up the right trending wide crsck, as the names suggests hexes are handy.<br />
<br />
'''SPRINKLES''' (3) 10m VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start just left of '''CHOCK''' and climb the narrower cracks directly to the top.<br />
<br />
'''I SCREAM''' (4) 10m VS 4c <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start 5m left of '''SPRINKLES''' at an arete, climb the wall left of the arete to a platform, finish up the steep wide crack above (crux).<br />
<br />
'''COHEN''' (5) 10m S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 3/9/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start left of '''SCREAM''' and climb the left side of the buttress to a small ledge, climb up the steep cracked wall on your right which is left of the upper arete.<br />
<br />
200m to the Right/South there is another steep buttress, routes are now '''left to right'''.<br />
[[File:Calling Dawn fanore .jpg|thumb|600x600px|Calling Dawn|alt=|center]]<br />
<br />
'''CALLING DAWN''' 12m Diff<br />
<br />
''Ciara Wall, Aodhán Gallagher, 26/02/24.''<br />
<br />
Traverse right up the ramp. Pleasant climbing.<br />
<br />
20m further Right/South there is <br />
[[File:ES.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''An Luascadh Mór''' VS 4b<br />
<br />
''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.''<br />
<br />
Start 3m left of '''ELF ON A SHELF''' at a steep left facing crack/groove and climb to a slab, traverse rightwards along the slab and finish up '''ELF ON A SHELF.'''<br />
<br />
'''ELF ON A SHELF''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 4/2/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the easiest line left of the steep section.<br />
<br />
'''Cathair Bheannach''' S <br />
<br />
''Aodhán Gallagher, Ciara Wall, 26/02/24.'' <br />
<br />
The crack to the right of Elf.<br />
<br />
[[File:Fanore L.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''RODEO DRIVE''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the left facing corner (wide crack) to the ledge and finish up the wall on the left.<br />
<br />
'''PET SOUNDS''' VS 5a<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the shallow steep left facing corner (finger crack) to the ledge and finish up the cracked head wall on the right.<br />
<br />
100m to the Right/South there is the main buttress.<br />
[[File:VH.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''VENTURA HIGHWAY''' D<br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 21/4/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the left side of the ridge/arete.<br />
[[File:Fanore main crag Ap 24.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''SLACK TIDE''' 10m VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climbs the left facing corner on the left of the overhangs. <br />
<br />
'''COME TO THE COAST''' VS 4c <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 21/4/2024.'' <br />
<br />
In the bay between the overhangs climb up between two protruding blocks to steeply gain a shelf, climb the cracked wall above and to the left. The hanging block further right and marked X appears to be stable but is bordered by fresh air on four sides which doesn't inspire structural confidence therefore don't touch it. <br />
<br />
'''BIKINI LINE''' VS 4c <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the leftward slanting wide crack to a ledge finish directly up the vertical wall above. <br />
<br />
'''BAYWATCH''' 10m S <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Takes the left hand crack line in the bay. <br />
<br />
'''THE HOFF''' 10m HS 4b <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Takes the right hand crack line in the bay.<br />
[[File:FANORE Rhs.jpg|center|thumb|800x800px]]<br />
'''THE WALRUS''' 10m S<br />
<br />
''Conor Warner, Barry Watts, 2/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Takes the left hand groove line in the next bay, veer right at the grassy topped bulge, finish leftwards up the easier wide crack/corner. <br />
<br />
'''BEACH BUM''' * 10m VS 5a <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 2/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Takes the right hand crack line in the bay, looks laid back and easy going from a distance but it turns out to be tougher than it looks.<br />
[[File:Liner.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''CRUISE LINER''' 10m VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16/4/2023.''<br />
<br />
Start at the right hand end of the crag, climb up for 3m to a bulge, traverse right around the arete and climb the cracked wall to the top.<br />
<br />
The next climbing area of interest is about 500m further Right/South on a steep prow of rock.<br />
<br />
[[File:F8.JPG|center|thumb|800x800px]]<br />
<br />
'''BEACH LOUNGER''' S <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
Start 1m left of the steep blank corner at a short vertical crack, climb steeply up the crack and move diagonally leftwards to the wider crack, climb onto the laid back slab and finish rightwards up the slab.<br />
<br />
'''STRAIT TO GLORY''' HVS 5a/b<br />
<br />
'' Marcin Ostasz Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
On the far right of the prow there is a wide crack at ground level below a higher left facing corner, climb the wide crack to the ledge and continue steeply up the corner moving slightly right to gain the flat finishing holds. <br />
<br />
'''HORMUZ CRISIS''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of '''STRAIT TO GLORY''', climb up this for 1m and traverse leftwards up the leftward trending ramp/groove to the top. <br />
<br />
'''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Marcin Ostasz, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
Start at the wide vertical crack 4m right of '''STRAIT TO GLORY''', climb up this for 4m and traverse leftwards to a foot ledge before heading straight up the cracked slab above.<br />
<br />
[[File:ST.JPG|center|thumb|900x900px]]<br />
<br />
'''NOT SO STRAIT''' VD<br />
<br />
'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
Start at the wide vertical crack 1m right of '''CAUGHT BY THE TIDE''', climb up this for 2m before heading rightwards up the cracked slab above.<br />
<br />
'''SIRENS TAIL''' VS<br />
<br />
'' Marcin Ostasz, Barry Watts, 19/4/2026.''<br />
<br />
Starts easy enough but gets more involved near the top... 10m right of '''NOT SO STRAIT''' there is a steep cracked wall, start at the rib just right of a vertical crack, climb the rib for 3m and move leftwards on horizontal ledges (to cross the vertical crack) and finish up a thin finger crack in the smooth wall. <br />
<br />
The next climbing area of interest is about 150m further Right/South.<br />
[[File:HE.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]'''HIGHER EDUCATION''' HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, unseconded 19/7/2024.''<br />
<br />
Climb the wall and upper crack on the left hand side of the buttress.</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Cuas_Croom&diff=5177Cuas Croom2026-08-03T16:12:01Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.<br />
[[File:Screenshot 20260803-170706 Gallery.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|511x511px]]<br />
'''Hippy Innkeeper''' D<br />
<br />
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole, 1/8/2026.<br />
<br />
Climb the slab left of '''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' without using the ledges to the left.<br />
<br />
1.'''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
2.'''Self Locate''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
3.'''Gnarly Wave Dude''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.'''The Zimmerframer''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.5'''The Day I Met Darragh''' S, 4a, 10m, Donie Mulcahy, Dan Daly 18/8/2016. <br />
<br>Climb thin crack between The Zimmerframer and Get the Box Out without using those climbs for holds or protection<br />
<br />
5.'''Get The Box Out''' D 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
6.'''Learning Curve''' VS 4b 10m K Reilly, J Healy 2014 Climb the wall just right of Get the Box Out, without bridging or using the corner for protection!<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:RoutesC.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<display_map><br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
</display_map></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Cuas_Croom&diff=5176Cuas Croom2026-08-03T16:09:20Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.<br />
[[File:Screenshot 20260803-170706 Gallery.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|511x511px]]<br />
'''Hippy Innkeeper''' D<br />
<br />
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole,, 1/8/2026.<br />
<br />
Climb the slab left of '''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' without using the ledges to the left.<br />
<br />
1.'''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
2.'''Self Locate''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
3.'''Gnarly Wave Dude''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.'''The Zimmerframer''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.5'''The Day I Met Darragh''' S, 4a, 10m, Donie Mulcahy, Dan Daly 18/8/2016. <br />
<br>Climb thin crack between The Zimmerframer and Get the Box Out without using those climbs for holds or protection<br />
<br />
5.'''Get The Box Out''' D 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
6.'''Learning Curve''' VS 4b 10m K Reilly, J Healy 2014 Climb the wall just right of Get the Box Out, without bridging or using the corner for protection!<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:RoutesC.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<display_map><br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
</display_map></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Cuas_Croom&diff=5175Cuas Croom2026-08-03T16:08:40Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.<br />
[[File:Screenshot 20260803-170706 Gallery.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
'''Hippy Innkeeper''' D<br />
<br />
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole,, 1/8/2026.<br />
<br />
Climb the slab left of '''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' without using the ledges to the left.<br />
<br />
1.'''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
2.'''Self Locate''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
3.'''Gnarly Wave Dude''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.'''The Zimmerframer''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.5'''The Day I Met Darragh''' S, 4a, 10m, Donie Mulcahy, Dan Daly 18/8/2016. <br />
<br>Climb thin crack between The Zimmerframer and Get the Box Out without using those climbs for holds or protection<br />
<br />
5.'''Get The Box Out''' D 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
6.'''Learning Curve''' VS 4b 10m K Reilly, J Healy 2014 Climb the wall just right of Get the Box Out, without bridging or using the corner for protection!<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:RoutesC.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<display_map><br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
</display_map></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=File:Screenshot_20260803-170706_Gallery.jpg&diff=5174File:Screenshot 20260803-170706 Gallery.jpg2026-08-03T16:08:12Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>H I</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Cuas_Croom&diff=5173Cuas Croom2026-08-03T16:06:37Z<p>Barry watts: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cuas Croom Crag is situated almost 2km north of the car park at Cooncrome Harbour in Co. Kerry at approx.V443832. Cooncrome Harbour is located 3km NW of Caherciveen Bridge. This sea Crag sits to the west of the inlet called Coosafadda and it faces in a SW direction. A short scramble decent is required to reach the Crag. There are five routes on this single clean slab of old red sandstone, all of which are 10m in height. In big seas, the base platform of the routes is unsafe due to wash. The Crag is situated on commonage and access is no major issue, as long responsibility is shown.<br />
<br />
'''Hippy Innkeeper''' D<br />
<br />
Barry Watts, Brandon O'Toole, Audrey O'Toole,, 1/8/2026.<br />
<br />
Climb the slab left of '''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' without using the ledges to the left.<br />
<br />
1.'''Sir Cam-A-Lot''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
2.'''Self Locate''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
3.'''Gnarly Wave Dude''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.'''The Zimmerframer''' VD 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
4.5'''The Day I Met Darragh''' S, 4a, 10m, Donie Mulcahy, Dan Daly 18/8/2016. <br />
<br>Climb thin crack between The Zimmerframer and Get the Box Out without using those climbs for holds or protection<br />
<br />
5.'''Get The Box Out''' D 10m D.Gaughran, T.Orr 1990<br />
<br />
6.'''Learning Curve''' VS 4b 10m K Reilly, J Healy 2014 Climb the wall just right of Get the Box Out, without bridging or using the corner for protection!<br />
<br />
<br />
[[File:RoutesC.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<display_map><br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
51.980059, -10.265857~Cuas Croom Crag<br />
</display_map></div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5172Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T15:24:49Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Ballinskelligs]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5171Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T15:19:43Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Ballinskelligs]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5170Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T15:15:51Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Ballinskelligs]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5169Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T14:38:18Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html# Ballinskelligs]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5168Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T14:35:42Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[[https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5167Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T14:28:01Z<p>Barry watts: /* Other */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
Ballinskelligs<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Irish_Climbing_Wiki&diff=5166Irish Climbing Wiki2026-08-03T14:23:40Z<p>Barry watts: /* Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula */</p>
<hr />
<div><s>IF YOU ADD NEW ROUTES TO THE WIKI PLEASE ADD A POST TO THIS THREAD ON THE FORUM:</s><br />
<br />
<s>http://forum.climbing.ie/index.php/topic,5422.0.html</s><br />
<br />
[[File:MapThumb.png|none|thumb|link=https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1CPSH_N4N3faP-wi9Z897XwEygiunPAgK&usp=sharing|alt=|Crag Map (work in progress)]]<br />
<br />
==Introduction==<br />
<br />
There are several other websites actively recording new route and new boulder problem information in Ireland:<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Donegal]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/undiscovered_donegal Donegal PDF Downloads]<br />
<br />
[http://www.theshortspan.com Bouldering in Ireland (TheShortSpan)]<br />
<br />
Some of the above sites have forms where you can submit descriptions etc. and it may suit you to do that. However for your convenience this listing is also made available and is accessible by the relevant guidebook editors.<br />
==Crag List==<br />
==Co. Antrim==<br />
[[Ballygalley Head]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=23&Submit=++Go++ Dunseverick] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Fairhead]]<br />
<br />
[[Garron Point]]<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=122&Submit=++Go++ Ramore Head] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[https://colmcille-climbers.com/route-list/?crag_no=196&Submit=++Go++ Runkerry] (Colmcille Climbers)<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing Glenariff]]<br />
<br />
[[Músaem Uladh]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Armagh==<br />
<br />
==Co. Carlow==<br />
<br />
==Co. Cavan==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Englishman's House Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[The Playbank]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Clare==<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie]]<br />
<br />
[[Ailladie DWS Routes]]<br />
<br />
[[Aill na Cronain]]<br />
<br />
[[Aillnagapple]]<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyryan]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballynahown]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Capaill]]<br />
<br />
[[Cliffs Of Moher]]<br />
<br />
[[Croagh North/Rathborney Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Doolin]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagles Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Fanore|Fanore More]]<br />
<br />
[[Loop Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Moneen]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullach Mor]]<br />
<br />
[[Murroughkilly]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Rua|Sliabh Rua]]<br />
<br />
[[Oughtdarra]]<br />
<br />
[[Scailp Na Seisri]]<br />
<br />
[[Turloughmore]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Cork==<br />
<br />
[[Adrigole]]<br />
<br />
[[Allihies]]<br />
<br />
[[Barry's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Beaumont Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Ball Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cape Clear Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Castletownroche]]<br />
<br />
[[Cumeengadhra]]<br />
<br />
[[Glengarriff]]<br />
<br />
[[Gowlbeg Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockadoon Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mizen Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Old Head Of Kinsale]]<br />
<br />
[[Oysterhaven]]<br />
<br />
[[Roberts Cove/Roberts Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sands Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Seven Heads]]<br />
<br />
[[Sheeps Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Sherkin Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Whiteball Head]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Derry==<br />
<br />
[[Sperrin Mountains]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Donegal==<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/donegal-guide Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[http://colmcille-climbers.com/gb-home/ Another Donegal Online Guidebook]<br />
<br />
[[Portsalon]]<br />
<br />
==Donegal PDF guidebook downloads==<br />
<br />
The 35 guidebooks below are in the PDF format and are available as free downloads. Where available there is a short film showing the best of each location. <br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (North)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishowen_guide '''Inishowen''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RwvPDYVpY8Q Inishowen Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc_an_affrain '''Cnoc an Aifreann''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckish_guide '''An Mhucais''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-aIgKu-Q_s Muckish Mountain Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/downings '''Downings''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
<big>'''Co Donegal (western)'''</big><br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/gweedore '''Gaoth Dodhair''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/errigal-guide '''Errigal''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/maumlack '''Mám an Leaca''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/poisoned_glen_guide '''Poisoned Glen''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenveagh_guide '''Gleann Bheatha''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oFsglD7EA Glenveagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/bingorms_guide '''Na Beanna Gorma/Loch Beara''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAPJLqDzgOw Bingorms Film]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rrrq8WFwPJY Tarquinn's Groove Film]<br />
<br />
[https://uniqueascent.ie/crobheithe '''Cró Bheithe''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/kincasslagh '''Cionn Caslach''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/crohy_head '''Ceann na Cruaiche''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEoWmBz8gt4 Crohy Head Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/winter_climbing '''Winter Climbs''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBrVLA_nSUM Muckish Winter Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Islands)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tory_island '''Toraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishsirrer '''inis Oirthir''' guidebook download] <br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/umphin_island '''Iompainn''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZouFHRvTw '''Umphin Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/tororragaun '''Tor Úi Arragáin''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGn4ACCNmq4&t= '''Tororragaun Film''']<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/gola_island_guide '''Gabhla''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/inishillintry '''Inis Oileantraigh''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/cruit_island_guide '''An Cruit''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuWWRDMZx6Y Cruit Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/owey_island '''Uaigh''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tms4qGxnzNc Owey Island Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/arranmore_island '''Árainn Mhór''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqbAHGuFNWY&t= '''Arranmore island Film''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/rathlin-o-birne-island '''Rathlin O Birne Island''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/deep-water-soloing '''Donegal Deep Water Soloing''' guidebook download] &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; [https://youtu.be/NuwPakT03oM '''Deep Water Soloing Film''']<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (South West)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glenlough '''Glenlough Bay''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fM0dcmhC7tk Glenlough Bay Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea_stack_guide '''Donegal Sea Stack''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gC5u646X0to Sea Stack Climbing Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/glencolmcille '''Glencolmcille''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJpZuVXmAzo Skelpoonagh Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/malinbeg_guide '''Malinbeg''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/sail_rock_guide '''Sail rock''' guidebook download]&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svJdCxz2bHM Sail Rock Film]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/muckross_guide '''Muckross Head''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/eglish_guide '''Eglish Valley''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
[http://www.uniqueascent.ie/belshade_guide '''Lough Belshade''' guidebook download]<br />
<br />
'''<big>Co Donegal (Sea Stacks)</big>'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/sea-stack-guide '''Sea Stack''' guidebook d]<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/dunaff-head '''Bothán Mhara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-ridge '''Tor Mór Ridge''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/lighthouse-stack '''Lighthouse Staca Pol na a'Luaithe''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/stac-an-iolar '''Stac an Iolar''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/bristi-sea-stack '''Brístí Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/gull-island '''Tor na Roisín''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/pyramid-sea-stack '''Pyramid Sea Stack''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/tormore-island '''An Tor Mór''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/cnoc-na-mara '''Cnoc na Mara''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-bhuideal '''An Bhuideal''']<br />
<br />
[https://www.uniqueascent.ie/an-port '''An Port''']<br />
<br />
==Co. Down==<br />
[[Alnadue Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalong Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Ben Crom]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Slabs]]<br />
<br />
[[Bearnagh Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Binnian Tors]]<br />
<br />
[[Blue Lough Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Buzzard's Roost]]<br />
<br />
[[Chimney Rock Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Doan]]<br />
<br />
[[Douglas Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Eagle Rocks]]<br />
<br />
[[Hare's Castle]]<br />
<br />
[[Hen Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Binnian]]<br />
<br />
[[Lower Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Meelmore]]<br />
<br />
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt '''Moor Hill Quarry'''] - '''Access Banned''' - Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at the quarry is not allowed. There is a new lock on the gate installed by the council on 18/11/2022. Please do not use the quarry to ensure that the talks between MI and the Council runs smoothly.<br />
<br />
[[Percy Bysshe]]<br />
<br />
[[Pigeon Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Beg]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Commedagh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievemageogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Muck]]<br />
<br />
[[Slieve Lamagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Spellack]]<br />
<br />
[[Upper Cove]]<br />
<br />
[[Unnamed Tor]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Dublin==<br />
<br />
[[Bullock Harbour]]<br />
<br />
[[Dalkey Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Howth Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ireland's Eye]]<br />
<br />
[[The Scalp]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Fermanagh==<br />
<br />
[[Benaughlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Crag With A View]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuilcagh Gap]]<br />
<br />
[[The Fosstra]]<br />
<br />
[[Hanging Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockmore]]<br />
<br />
[[Monastir Sink]]<br />
<br />
[[Skreen Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Wheathill Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Coolrakan Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Galway==<br />
<br />
[[Aran Islands]]<br />
<br />
[[Bencorr]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Braon]]<br />
<br />
[[Cnoc Mordáin]]<br />
<br />
[[Diamond Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Errisbeg]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Chochan]]<br />
<br />
[[Gleann Eighneach|Gleann Eidhneach]]<br />
<br />
[[Inagh Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Little Killary]]<br />
<br />
[[Maamturks]]<br />
<br />
[[Galway city]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Kerry==<br />
<br />
===Corcha Duibhne / Dingle Peninsula===<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Bhaile Dháith / Ballydavid Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Brandon East Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[An Charraig Ard]]<br />
<br />
[[Com an Lochaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[An Dún Mór / Dunmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Dún Séanna / Dunshean Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glanteenassig forest]]<br />
<br />
[[An Blascaod Mór / Great Blasket Island]]<br />
<br />
[[An Sás / Sauce Creek]]<br />
<br />
[[Ceann Sibéal]]<br />
<br />
[[Binn Diarmada]]<br />
<br />
===Other===<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Ballinskelligs Ballinskelligs https://www.c1731413.myzen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html]<br />
<br />
[[Ballyheigue]]<br />
<br />
[[Black Valley]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Bladelands Bladelands]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Boluspt Bolus Point]<br />
<br />
[[Coomachuillin]]<br />
<br />
[[Cuas Croom]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Fortress Fortress Zawn]<br />
<br />
[[Gap Of Dunloe]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Glanearagh Glanearagh]<br />
<br />
[[Glanearagh south]]<br />
<br />
[[Illaunnaweelaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Kerry Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Lamb's Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Loo Bridge]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Coumeenoughter]]<br />
<br />
[[Maghancoosaun]]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Beena Beenakryraka Head, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#Reena Reenadrolaun Point, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zen68262.zen.co.uk/climbing-ireland.html#BCliff The Black Cliff, Valencia Island]<br />
<br />
[[Winter Climbing around Carrauntoohil]]<br />
<br />
<br />
==Co. Kildare==<br />
<br />
==Co. Kilkenny==<br />
<br />
[[Ballykeefe Quarry]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockdrinna]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Laois==<br />
<br />
==Co. Leitrim==<br />
<br />
[[Cloch An tSagairt / Carrignahasta]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloonty Pruglish]]<br />
<br />
[[King's Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Mass Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[The Doons]]<br />
<br />
[[Swiss Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Limerick==<br />
<br />
[[Knockhourough]]<br />
<br />
[[Knockroe]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Gur]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Longford==<br />
<br />
==Co. Louth==<br />
<br />
[[Slievenaglogh]]<br />
<br />
[[Long Woman's Grave, Cooleys - The Thing In The Forest]]<br />
<br />
[[Clogherhead]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Mayo==<br />
<br />
[[Achill|Achill]]<br />
<br />
[[Achill_Atlantic_Drive|Achill Atlantic Drive]]<br />
<br />
[[Achillbeg_Island|Achillbeg Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Benwee_Head|Benwee Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Clare_Island|Clare Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum_Gowlaun|Coum Gowlaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Doo_Lough|Doo Lough]]<br />
<br />
[[Downpatrick_Head|Downpatrick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Glen_Loss_Point|Glen Loss Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishkea_Island|Inishkea Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Ceann an Eannaigh]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Doonamo Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Iorras - Gleann Lára]]<br />
<br />
[[Inishturk_Island|Inishturk Island]]<br />
<br />
[[Killary_Crags|Killary Crags]]<br />
<br />
[[Derreennawinshin|Derreennawinshin]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea|Mweelrea]]<br />
<br />
[[Mweelrea/_Ben_Bury_Scrambles|Mweelrea/ Ben Bury Scrambles]]<br />
<br />
[[Portacloy|Portacloy]]<br />
<br />
[[Porturlin|Porturlin]]<br />
<br />
[[Srahnalong_Valley_/_An_Scoltach|Srahnalong Valley / An Scoltach]]<br />
<br />
[[Tangincartoor|Tangincartoor]]<br />
<br />
[[Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group|Winter climbing Connemara/South Mayo group]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Meath==<br />
<br />
==Co. Monaghan==<br />
<br />
==Co. Offaly==<br />
<br />
[[Silver River Crag]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Roscommon==<br />
<br />
==Co. Sligo==<br />
<br />
[[Aughris Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Cooney Rock]]<br />
<br />
[[Doomore Crag]]<br />
<br />
[[Happy Valli]]<br />
<br />
[[Hawk Rock/Cuckoo Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Kings Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Mullaghmore/Roskeeragh Point]]<br />
<br />
[[Scalp na gCapail]]<br />
<br />
[[Slish Wood]]<br />
<br />
[[Tormore]]<br />
<br />
[[Union Woods]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tipperary==<br />
<br />
[[Devil's bit]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Tyrone==<br />
<br />
[[Strabane Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Cookstown Quarry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Waterford==<br />
<br />
[[Ardmore Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Ballinaclough]]<br />
<br />
[[Bunmahon]]<br />
<br />
[[Coumshingaun]]<br />
<br />
[[Crotty's Rock|Crotty's]]<br />
<br />
[[Fauscoum]]<br />
<br />
[[Foill An Priosun]]<br />
<br />
[[Helvick Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Mahon Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Coum Tay]]<br />
<br />
[[Nire Valley]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Westmeath==<br />
<br />
[[Fore]]<br />
<br />
[[Rock of Curry]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wexford==<br />
<br />
[[Rocklands]]<br />
<br />
[[Forth Mountain]]<br />
<br />
==Co. Wicklow==<br />
<br />
[[Notes on Early Wicklow Climbing]]<br />
<br />
[[Annalecka Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnacullian]]<br />
<br />
[[Barnbawn]]<br />
<br />
[[Bell Rock - Avoca]]<br />
<br />
[[The Bishop - Dunran]]<br />
<br />
[[Bonfire Buttress]]<br />
<br />
[[Bray Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrick Mountain]]<br />
<br />
[[Carrigshouk]]<br />
<br />
[[Cloghoge]]<br />
<br />
[[Glendalough]]<br />
<br />
[[Glenmalure]]<br />
<br />
[[Great Sugar Loaf]]<br />
<br />
[[Green Lizard]]<br />
<br />
[[Hollywood]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Bray]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Dan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lough Nahanagan]]<br />
<br />
[[Lover's Leap - Enniskerry]]<br />
<br />
[[Luggala]]<br />
<br />
[[Mall Hill]]<br />
<br />
[[Tonduff/Raven's Glen]]<br />
<br />
[[Rocky Valley]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Head]]<br />
<br />
[[Wicklow Winter Climbs]]<br />
<br />
__FORCETOC__<br />
__INDEX__<br />
__NEWSECTIONLINK__</div>Barry wattshttp://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php?title=Murroughkilly&diff=5165Murroughkilly2026-07-26T15:06:53Z<p>Barry watts: /* Shepherdesses fold */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Introduction==<br />
The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.<br />
<br />
Local considerations - If you have visited Ballyryan and feel like a champion after a days climbing and decide to head up to this wonderful crag then read the following.<br />
<br />
The grades are tough, the rock quality varies and your safe ascent of many of these climbs require good judgement and steady climbing technique in dealing with loose pebbles and the odd loose mini flake. Many of the cracks on routes can be flared and do not lend themselves readily to nut protection. Making a decent belay can require going 20m back from the cliff top. There are only a handful of easy descents so you may have to walk a long way in rock shoes if you don't like back climbing moderates or abseiling. <br />
<br />
The landowners have an eco tourism business Burren Mountain Tours so you might see vehicles traversing the tracks above the cliff, best not to run belays across the track for a prolonged length of time as this will block vehicular access or result in a damaged rope. <br />
<br />
Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) or the Wild Atlantic Way sign and lay by further South, walk straight up the hillside for 20 minutes to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis). The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.<br />
<br />
For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag. This route is not great as it traverse alot of broken ground and there are number of 'false cliffs' along the way. Better still park on the grassy verge on the Khyber Pass road adjacent to Murrough Bridge and the Caher River, walk Northwards along the main coast road and turn right after 140m to gain a gravel lane way (houses) that leads afrer a stile onto a pedestrian Green Road. About 400m along the Green Road turn right and head Eastwards (and uphill) through limestone pavements and over stone walls to reach the crag. All approaches take between 30 and 50 minutes. <br />
<br />
[[File:Black Head skyline.JPG|600px|File:Black Head skyline.JPG]]<br />
<br />
(View of Black Head from the North showing Murroughkilly cliffs in the top left hand corner)<br />
<br />
An aerial video of the area is here https://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-1017303724-aerial-birds-eye-view-burren-national-park<br />
<br />
The main crag is divided into 10 separate areas described from left to right (north to south) and there are 2 areas East of and above the main cliff. The height mostly varies from 10m to 20m with Central Buttress heading towards 30m.<br />
<br />
Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name (Doon Buttress). The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.<br />
<br />
==Doon Buttress==<br />
<br />
[[File:Doonb.jpg|600px|File:Doonb.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''OCTOBER''' * HS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, P. Redmond, 28/10/84.''<br />Climb the corner. Step right and climb the left-hand of two curving flake cracks (crux)<br />
<br />
'''DOOM AND GLOOM''' E1 5b<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />The left-hand of the two central cracks on Doon Buttress.<br />
<br />
'''DOONSBURY''' VD<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />Takes the corner/crack system 2-3m right of Doom and Gloom.<br />
<br />
150m South there is a protruding buttress with descent ramps on either side<br />
<br />
==Really Far North Buttress==<br />
<br />
[[File:RFNB.jpg|600px|File:RFNB.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''SCOILT CLEACHTADH''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Nigel Callender, 17/8/1998.''<br />Climb the crack on the left, the crux is the overhang at the top.<br />
<br />
'''POM'S PARADISE''' 15m HS 4a<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.''<br />Start 5m right of SCOILT CLEACTADH, follow the thin crack to the top. Protection is sparse in the lower half, micro wires may help, the upper half is well protected.<br />
<br />
'''O'DONOGHUE'S CRACK''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.''<br />Obvious wide crack where wall turns South facing.<br />
<br />
'''DUNE RIDER''' 15m VD<br />''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 24/9/2017.''<br />Thin crack 3m right of O'Donoghoe's Crack, finish up stepped upper wall.<br />
<br />
==Far North Buttress==<br />
This is the cleanest expanse of rock at this end of the crag. The routes are on a small wall bounded on the left by a chimney and on the right by a wide crack and buttress. Descent is by the grass ramp on the left.<br />
<br />
[[File:FNB Left.jpg|600px|File:FNB Left.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''THE NUTTER''' E1 5c<br />''T. Taylor, M. Flannery, 1/9/94.''<br />The zig-zag crack below the short chimney in the wall at the bottom of the descent ramp.<br />
<br />
'''CORNISH RAIDER''' S<br />''S. Young, D. Walsh, 4/6/85.''<br />This is the big chimney at the left of the clean wall. Step onto the wall from the top of the chimney and climb the overhang above (crux).<br />
<br />
'''PEREGRINE FALCOFF''' * HS<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />The first V-groove right of the chimney. The crux is a thrutch at 8m.<br />
<br />
'''TRUE WEST''' ** E2 5b<br />''I. Rea, C. Torrans, M. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Good technical climbing with a bold crux. From the foot of the second groove climb up and right to a thin crack. Gain the capped niche and finish via the short clean corner above.<br />
<br />
'''SQUALL''' E3 6a<br />''T. Taylor (unseconded), 1/9/94.''<br />The thin flakey line immediately left of Bronco. Thin strenuous layaways to a wide niche, then finish easily up the wall<br />
<br />
[[File:FNB Central 1.jpg |600px|File:FNB Central 1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''BRONCO''' ** VS 4c<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />There are two corners to the left of the wide crack. Bronco is the leftmost. Delightful climb on sound rock. Crux at 3m.<br />
<br />
'''THE DURANGO KID''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 5/10/85.''<br />The groove right of Bronco. Excellent climbing, low in the grade, good introduction to the E1s. Start just left of the wide crack. Crux at 2m.<br />
<br />
'''BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITY''' HVS 5a<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />Takes the crack and arête immediately left of Maverick.<br />
<br />
'''MAVERICK''' S<br />''K. Higgs (solo) May 1977.''<br />Start at the off-width crack and finish up the corner.<br />
<br />
[[file:mkily.jpg|463x463px|file:mkily.jpg|alt=]]<br />
<br />
'''Mental Block'''<br />
<br />
'''MENTAL BLOCK''' VS 4c<br />''G. Moss, D. Collie, 18/6/85.''<br />The vertical crack on the front of the buttress. Finish as for Maverick.<br />
<br />
'''AN MHÉAR FHADA''' * S 3c<br />''D. Somers (solo), May 1977.''<br />After a steep start a pleasant romp up the ramp on the right-hand side of the buttress. Go up and left at the overhang.<br />
<br />
'''RYAN'S CRACK''' * VS 4c<br />''T. Ryan, May 1977.''<br />The cracks in the smooth steep wall.<br />
<br />
'''RYAN'S GROOVE''' * HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, May 1977.''<br />The crack which widens to a chimney on the right-hand side of the wall.<br />
<br />
'''HOWARD'S ROUTE''' E1 5c<br />''H. Hebblethwaite (solo), 26/10/85.''<br />Takes the double thin cracks on the edge of the prow.<br />
<br />
'''RIDDLEY WALKER''' VS 4c<br />''R. Higgins, G. Moss, 18/6/85.''<br />Climbs the flared groove on the front of the prow.<br />
<br />
'''COAKLEY'S HAMMER''' ** VD<br />''R. Higgins, L. Blood, 18/6/85.''<br />This superb little route takes the right side of the prow on good jugs.<br />
<br />
'''SOFT OPTION''' * HS 4b<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />On the shattered wall just right of the prow there is a sentry box. Gain this from the left and finish straight up.<br />'''Direct start''' * HVS 5a<br />''C. Torrans (solo), 15/7/85.''<br />Climbs the crescent crack to the sentry box.<br />
<br />
'''BURNET ROSE''' * HS 4b<br />''G. Moss, V. Kelly, 18/8/85.''<br />From a triangular recess climb the vertical crack above.<br />
<br />
'''WEST COAST COOLER''' * HVS 5a<br />''V. Kelly, G. Moss, D. Doyle, 17/8/85.''<br />Open delicate climbing, low in the grade. Takes the faint crack starting at 3m.<br />
<br />
[[File:FNB Right.jpg|600px|File:FNB Right.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''YELLOW SUBMARINE''' VS 4b<br />''L. Blood, T. O Connor, 18/8/85.''<br />Climb the groove, crux at 3m.<br />
<br />
'''GRACE O MALLEY''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Sheridan, J. Flanagan, 15/9/85.''<br />Good crack climbing. Follow the curving crack, crux at half height.<br />
<br />
'''GREAT WESTERN''' ** E1 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 26/10/85.''<br />Terrific climbing with a jug-filled finish around the overhang. Climb the corner, difficult move to reach crack, out left at overhang.<br />
[[File:Lone Ranger.jpg|center|thumb|447x447px|alt=|Lone Ranger]]<br />
<br />
'''LONE RANGER''' * HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.''<br />Climb cracks to the overhangs. Escape right.<br />
<br />
'''GOLD FINGER''' HVS 5a<br />''T. Ryan, K. Higgs, May 1977.''<br />Follow the crack to the right-hand overhang and escape through a notch, some loose rock.<br />
<br />
'''THRILLER''' HVS 5a<br />''D. Smyth, J. Colandairaj, P. Connally, 17/7/2009.''<br />Takes the crack line and roof between Goldfinger and Shakey Flakes, a handy kneebar at the roof lets you check what blocks are solid to pull through it on!<br />
<br />
'''SHAKEY FLAKES''' VS 4c<br />''A. & P. McFarlane, September 1988.''<br />Takes the rightmost crack system on the Far North Buttress.<br />
<br />
==North Buttress==<br />
About 50m south of Far North Buttress the main feature is a distinct V-groove on the left-hand side.<br />
<br />
[[File:NB.jpg|600px|File:NB.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''A FOSSIL IN MY PRIME''' HVS 5a<br />''Dominic Lee.(solo) 30th July 2008.''<br />Climbs the rib just left of Lie Detector<br />
<br />
'''LIE DETECTOR''' * VS 4c<br />''L. Blood, G. Moss, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.''<br />Takes the V-groove. The crux is gaining the groove.<br />
<br />
[[File:NBR.jpg|600px|File:NBR.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''REEF ENCOUNTER **''' E4 6b <br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 30th July 2008.''<br />Brilliant climbing, tackling the cracked rib just left of Billy Muggins.<br />
<br />
'''BILLY MUGGINS''' ** E3 5c<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />The buttress right of Lie Detector exhibits a striking water worn line. Start 4m right of Lie Detector. Climb easily to a series of vertical flakes/thin crack (wires). From the rightmost flake move up to gain jugs. Climb boldly to a rest and friend placements at the second horizontal break. Finish directly. Brilliant.<br />
<br />
'''JCB''' D<br />''P. Turley (solo), 27/10/85.''<br />Start 6m right of the bottomless chimney. Climb the obvious easy-angled corner to a grass ledge. Scramble to the top.<br />
<br />
'''BLUESKIES''' HVS 5a<br />''P. Turley, M. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Start about 14m right of bottomless chimney in a shallow recess bounded by two cracks. (1) Follow the right crack, crux at 4m. Gain the wider crack, then move up the slabby wall to the left to a grass ledge and belay. (2) Continue up the easy crack in the head wall.<br />
<br />
'''SLOTH''' D<br />''P. Turley (solo) 27/10/85.''<br />Climb the easy-angled corner right of the arête. From the grass ledge move left and up.<br />
<br />
'''DELICATESSEN''' S<br />''P. Turley (solo) 29/10/85.''<br />Climb over hollow-sounding flakes to reach a corner on the right. Climb this to a grass ledge and finish up the big chimney.<br />
<br />
==North Central Buttress==<br />
An extensive area of good solid rock 50m south of North Buttress.<br />
<br />
[[File:NCB.jpg|600px|File:NCB.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''RIFFRAFF''' * HVS 5a<br />''C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 26/10/85.''<br />Takes the left-facing corner starting at 4m above the ground. Interesting climbing with an exposed crux at the overhang.<br />
<br />
'''BLUEBIRD''' ** HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />Excellent sustained climbing. Start below the crack. Move right and then left to its base. Finish up the crack.<br />
<br />
'''TROUBLE CHILD''' HVS 5a<br />''K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 7/5/77.''<br />Right-trending crack, 3m right of Bluebird.<br />
<br />
'''THE QUIET CLAM''' ** 20m E5 6a<br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.''<br />Steep climbing taking the central line of North Buttress direct via a crack and hanging flakes. Finish up the corner above.<br />
<br />
'''FOSSIL FUEL''' ** 20m E6 6b<br />''Dominic Lee, Nathan Lee, 9th August 2010.''<br />Climbs the incision left of Hard Tack, gaining it directly via flakes and undercuts. Continue up the water-worn groove above the break to join and finish up The Quiet Clam. <br />
<br />
'''HARD TACK''' * E1 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.''<br />Strange jamming sequence to get into the pod. The route does continue to the top of the crag but it's best to abseil off from the fixed point.<br />
<br />
'''GOOD CRACK''' * VS 4c<br />''C. Torrans, I. Rea, 29/10/85.''<br />Nice climbing on firm rock. The crack is not as wide as it looks. Abseil off.<br />
<br />
==Central Buttress==<br />
Easily recognised by the small clump of trees and a sheep pen slightly to its right. The biggest of the crags with a fine main wall. The routes are described in relation to a small tree beside the off-width crack of Cromwell.<br />
<br />
[[File:Central.jpg|600px|File:Central.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''SLI NA FIRINNE''' HVS 5a<br />''C. Sheridan, C. Torrans, 5/5/96.''<br />This route takes the second crack left of the small tree which runs into a small overhang. Climb the crack and pass the overhang on the right to reach a grassy ramp. Continue up the awkward crack above. Treat the rock with care.<br />
<br />
'''PRAMALAMADINGDONG''' * E2 5c<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Connell, September 1991.''<br />A good route which takes the crack just to the left of the small tree. Climb up the crack to a break and traverse left past a tree to a ledge. The going gets sweaty on the thin crack which leads to the top. There is a stake up on the right for belaying.<br />
<br />
'''THE NEW HEATHENS''' * E3 5c<br />''C. Torrans, S. McEvoy, September 1991.''<br />A bold start leads to a good crack to finish. The route climbs the wall just left of the small tree. Gain the flakes just right of the crack and follow these rightwards to the top of the right-hand crack. Move slightly left to the bottom of another crack and a good thread. Climb the crack above with increasing difficulty. Belay on the stake.<br />
<br />
'''CROMWELL''' E3 5c<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, October 1991.''<br />Low in the grade and enjoyable, so a good one to push it out (or hold it back). The climb takes the wide left-facing crack which runs from beside the tree up and over the break and bulge to reach a dog-leg crack, all quite sustained. Follow the doggy's crack to the top and tie yourself to the stake.<br />
<br />
'''HINTS AND ALLEGATIONS''' * E3 6a<br />''C. Torrans, D. O Sullivan, 7/9/86.''<br />A technical and strenuous route with reasonable protection. The climb follows the light-coloured stain in the middle of Central Buttress. Climb easily over a bulge to a short groove. Up this to a sloping ledge. Move right and gain the top of a flake. The short crack on the left leads to a huge hidden jug and a horizontal break. Continue up the crack above (crux) with difficult finger jamming to a jug on the left. Continue with difficulty to a break and follow the crack to easy ground, exiting right.<br />
<br />
'''HY-BRASIL''' ** E1 5b<br />''C. Sheridan, I. Rea, C. Torrans, 27/10/85.''<br />Superb climbing on excellent rock with the crux at the right place at the final overhang. Start at the sloping ledge at the clean wall on the right side of the buttress. The route takes the corner with the small tree stump and the crack above. (Re-cleaned by Ronan Keane, July 2011.)<br />
<br />
'''NEBRASKA''' ** E2 5c<br />''C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 27/10/85.''<br />An excellent pitch, strenuous and technical with good protection. The crux is at the thin crack which goes left and then right near the top. Climb the wide crack which runs up to form the right side of the big flake shared by Hy Brasil. Continue up the crack to the overhang and gain the crack which runs up left. Climb this to the top.<br />
<br />
==South Central Buttress==<br />
An extensive area immediately right of Central Buttress, bounded on the left by the small clump of trees and on the right by the descent ramp.<br />
<br />
'''FREELANCE''' ** VS 4c<br />''G. Smyth, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.''<br />The right-hand of two prominent corners. The crux is gaining the bottom of the corner (awkward).<br />
<br />
==South Buttress==<br />
Separated from South Central Buttress by the descent ramp and bounded on the right by an old wall.<br />
<br />
[[File:SB.jpg|600px|File:SB.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''Murroughkilly South Buttress'''<br />
<br />
'''DISTRUST THE STARS''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, S. Young, 4/6/85.''<br />Excellent climbing on sound rock. High in the grade. Takes the left-facing stacked corners just right of the descent ramp. Exit left around the overhang at the top (crux just below the overhang).<br />
<br />
'''DELIVERANCE''' * E3 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, C. Torrans, September 1986.''<br />Steep interesting climbing up the right wall of Distrust The Stars. Start 5m right of this route at a short leftward trending crack. Follow this to a ledge. Place protection in the crack on the right and then traverse left to a line of flakes. Follow the flakes to a jug and then launch up to gain the horizontal break. Traverse left and finish up the twin cracks. The belay is well back in some clints.<br />
<br />
'''UPLIFT''' * VS 4c<br />''D. McMahon, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.''<br />Well protected and steeper than it looks.<br />
<br />
'''RAIN STOPS SE''' HS 4b<br />''M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.''<br />A white, north-facing corner.<br />
<br />
[[File:South Buttress1.jpg|600px|File:South Buttress1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''ABOUT TIME TOO''' * VS 4c<br />''P. Ewen, K. Higgs, June 1977.''<br />Take the right-hand of the two pods. Gain the crack and exit left through the wide chimney.<br />
<br />
'''RAIN DANCE''' VS<br />''K. Higgs, P. Ewen, June 1977.''<br />Just right of the pod there is a flared groove and crack leading to an overhang. Exit right around the overhang.<br />
<br />
'''WOUNDED KNEE''' HVS 5a<br />''M. Keyes, D. Somers, August 1989.''<br />Start at the crackline between Rain Dance and Land Of The Free. Follow the crackline until it peters out at two-thirds height. Climb the wall and slab above and finish up the top corner of Land Of The Free. The hollow flake at 4m adds some interest.<br />
<br />
'''LAND OF THE FREE''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, D. McMahon, 6/7/85.''<br />The left-hand of the two cracks. Climb this to a slab. Mantelshelf (thread runner) and traverse left and finish up the crack in the corner.<br />
<br />
'''HOME OF THE BRAVE''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, G. Smyth, 7/7/85.''<br />Start just left of the north-facing corner up dubious rock for 3m to the base of the magnificent layback crack. Up this for 7m to a slab. Mantelshelf and move right (delicate crux). Finish up the clean corner.<br />
<br />
'''EMIGRANT'S LEGACY''' S<br />''M. Keyes, B. Thorn, 3/8/85.''<br />The north-facing corner just right of Home of the Brave. The two routes finish together.<br />
<br />
==Far South Buttress==<br />
Easily identified by a wall running up to its base and a nose at 10m, prominent in profile. <br />
<br />
[[File:FSB Left.jpg|600px|File:FSB Left.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''HIGH DUDGEON''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, S. Barrett, C. O Higgins, 14/9/84.''<br />A north-facing corner 20m left of the wall. Strenuous and sustained after the ledge at 3m. Well protected.<br />
<br />
'''FRESH FIELDS''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, C. Brogan, June 1984.''<br />A Y-shaped corner 10m left of the wall. The crux is the leftward traverse at half height to gain the left-hand corner. Trust the small hold just around the corner.<br />
<br />
'''SQUATTING''' E2 6a<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />Takes the left nose direct. Start 3m left of Tiger's Tail. Hard climbing up the sickle-shaped crack gains the jug at its apex. Climb directly up to the terrace. Move left onto the nose and finish up the left-facing groove.<br />
<br />
'''TIGER'S TAIL''' ** VS 4c<br />''D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.''<br />The left-hand nose. Start just right of the wall and climb the chimney. Step left and gain the nose by swinging on a jug. Finish unexpectedly up the right-hand crack (strenuous).<br />
<br />
'''TANTRUM''' ** E4 6b<br />''D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, 30/5/92.''<br />An obvious challenge offering fierce bouldery climbing. Start 2m left of Lion's Mouth. Crank the thin crack, passing a peg runner en route, to a more classic finish up a left-facing corner and continuation crack.<br />
<br />
'''LION'S MOUTH''' ** HVS 5a<br />''D. Walsh, C. O Higgins, S. Barrett, 14/9/85.''<br />A photogenic route. The right-hand nose is reached by a strenuous chimney (crux). Climb through a notch in the overhang, up and out onto the nose on the left. Make a dynamic mantelshelf and finish up a rightward crack above<br />
<br />
'''EYE OF THE TIGER''' ** E1 5b<br />''R. Higgins, D. Walsh, 18/6/85.''<br />The rightward-trending crack just right of Lion's Mouth. Sustained and well protected. Belay on the grass ramp. Continue easily up the ramp on the left and the corner.<br />
<br />
==Afghan Walls==<br />
<br />
150m past/South of Eye of the Tiger there is a large buttress with numerous shallow corners and cracks.<br />
There is a steep ascent/descent route on the right which has a move of D. For cliff top belays careful scrutiny of two stone 'altars' near the descent will reveal good nut belays.<br />
[[File:Hs&FRR.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''HOMO SOVIETICUS''' HVS 5a<br />
<br />
''Gerry Galligan. Barry Watts, 4/9/2021.''<br />
<br />
Start just left of '''FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR''', climb the steep wide crack to a grassy ledge, continue up the groove above (crux). <br />
<br />
'''FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR''' HS 4a<br />''M. Keyes, L. Yallop, B. McNelis, July 1988.''<br />This route follows the first series of overlapping flakes on the broken wall on the far right of Far South Buttress. Exit carefully left at the top.<br />
<br />
[[File:FINALAW.jpg|600px|File:FINALAW.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''GO TELL THE MUJAHIDEEN''' 20m HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017.''<br />Takes the wall and crack 2m left of the second corner<br />
<br />
'''SEE THE YOUNG RUSSIANS, HIGH ON OUR GEAR''' 20m S 3c <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 2/7/2017.''<br />Climb the second corner, crux is in the first few metres. Enjoyable.<br />
<br />
'''DURAND LINE''' 20m HS 4b<br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20/5/2017.''<br />Takes the continuous crack in the smooth slab right of the second corner. The steep wall higher up forms the crux. A good companion piece to Bakhtar Radio.<br />
<br />
'''THE SILK ROAD''' 20m HS 4b <br />''Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 17/9/2017.''<br />2m right of Durand Line there is a wide crack formed by a flake at 8m<br />
Climb a short corner at ground level to climb this, continue up a more<br />
broken easy corner to finish.<br />
<br />
'''BAKHTAR RADIO''' 20m HS 4b <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 15/4/2017.''<br />Halfway along the base of the wall there is a triangular block on the ground and a <br />
recess opposite it. Climb the wall 1m to the left of this recess to join the crack <br />
that continues to the top. <br />
<br />
'''FLAMING JEZAIL''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 2/7/2017.''<br />4m right of '''BAKHTAR RADIO''' climb the crack and corner to a grassy ledge at half hright, <br />
take the easier cracked left wall to more broken ground and the top. <br />
The crux is in the first few metres and is well protected. <br />
<br />
'''KHYBER CRACK''' 15m S <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 15/4/2017.''<br />25m further on/South from '''BAKHTAR RADIO''' there is a broken crack before the descent.<br />
Follow this pleasant well protected line to a ledge, up crack on the left to finish.<br />
<br />
[[File:Afghan_walls_3.jpg|alt=|frameless|600x600px]]<br />
<br />
'''KANDAHAR''' 20m S <br />''Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017.''<br />Start beneath a small niche. Climb to the niche, and continue upwards to the leftmost of two cracks above. Deviation for gear may be needed.<br />
<br />
'''THE FALL OF KABUL''' HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.''<br />
<br />
Start at the obvious crack below and right of '''KANDAHAR''', climb this to a grassy ledge and follow the leftward trending line to finish as for '''KANDAHAR'''.<br />
<br />
'''INSURGENCY CRACK''' 20m VS 4c<br />''Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017.''<br />Follow the deep dog-legged crack to the left of MOAB.<br />
<br />
'''MOAB''' 20m HS 4b<br />''Peter Wood, Stuart Kennedy, 15/4/2017.''<br />Start just to the right of Insurgency crack. Climb to the small ledge, and continue via the crack and small pinnacle to the top<br />
<br />
'''NORTHERN ALLIANCE''' 20m VS 5a <br />''Stuart Kennedy, Peter Wood, 15/4/2017.''<br />Start up the steep crack to the right of the arete following it trending right to the top.<br />
<br />
The escarpment extends to the right, beyond a broken field wall running perpendicular to the escarpment and directly towards the sea.<br />
[[File:WC.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
<br />
'''WAKHAN CORRIDOR''' HS<br />''Gerry Galligan, Stuart Kennedy, 12/5/2019.''<br />Above a niche is a groove leading to a left-facing corner. Continue up, trending right, following a disjointed crack-line. Check loose holds.<br />
<br />
300m further right there is another high buttress.<br />
[[File:RR (2).jpg|center|thumb|400x400px|alt=]]<br />
<br />
'''RUSSIAN ROULETTE''' E1 5a<br />''Stuart Kennedy, Gerry Galligan, 12/5/2019.''<br />Halfway along the escarpment, adjacent to a wide, left-facing chimney, is a crack line. Follow this crack to a stance below a bulging wall. Continue to the top. Sustained, with good protection.<br />
[[File:PBF 2.jpg|center|thumb|500x500px]]<br />
'''JIRGA''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 28/4/2024.''<br />
<br />
20m right of '''RUSSIAN ROULETTE''' there is an alcove, climb the left hand groove in the alcove.<br />
<br />
'''PASHTUN BLOOD FEUD''' HS 4b<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 4/9/2021.'' <br />
<br />
Climb the right hand groove in the alcove. <br />
<br />
==Upper Tier==<br />
Contrary to the information in previous guidebooks the climbs in this area are worthwhile, are on good rock and have excellent protection, the view is fab and it can be a sanctuary from midge. These climbs are adjacent to a large open air water tank/trough which is East of and above Central Buttress.<br />
[[File:1290px-Upper tier left.jpg|thumb|600x600px|alt=|none]]<br />
<br />
'''WHERE'S THE LIFEGUARD?''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 3/9/2021.''<br />
<br />
Start 2m left of '''TWO TRICK PONY''', climb the slab diagonally rightwards to gain the grassy ledge as for '''TTP''', traverse left for 3m and climb the short wide crack to another ledge, finish up the slabby rib above.<br />
<br />
'''TWO TRICK PONY''' HS 4b<br />''David Brosnan, Barry Watts, 21/4/2018.''<br />Climb a left facing corner and slab 5m left of '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge, finish<br />
steeply up the hand crack with the help of good holds on the right hand side.<br />
<br />
'''STORMY DANIELS''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.''<br />Climb the slab and thin crack right 3m left of '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge.<br />
Finish up the wide crack.<br />
<br />
'''STORM STRUCK''' VD <br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 6/5/2018.''<br />Climb as for '''MET EIREANN''' to the grassy ledge. Continue up the pleasant corner crack 2m to the left.<br />
<br />
'''MET EIREANN''' VD<br />''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018.''<br />Start 5m left of the obvious chimney, climb a grassy crack (solo'd by Eve the dog soon after FA) to a ledge <br />
and continue up crack and slab, trend left for the final few m's as the head wall has some nice incut holds. <br />
<br />
'''HERE COMES SUMMER''' * VD<br />''G. Moss, D. Doyle, 19/8/1985.''<br />Start 2m left of the obvious chimney. Climb thin crack to grassy ledge, then the left-hand crack in the wall above, trending left to overhang.<br />
<br />
Variation finish; '''THIS AIN'T SUMMER''' S<br />''Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 6/5/2018.''<br />From the highest ledge at 2/3 height trend diagonally rightwards to the top.<br />
<br />
'''LÁ na SCOLLAIB''' * S<br />''G. Moss, 18/8/1985.''<br />Climb the chimney.<br />
<br />
[[File:Uppertiercentral.jpg|600px|File:Uppertiercentral.jpg]]<br />
[[File:RW.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|669x669px]]<br />
<br />
'''RAINBOW WARRIOR **''' HS<br />''D. Doyle, V. Kelly, 18/8/1985.''<br />3m right of the chimney. Climb the crack, starting at a leaning block.<br />
<br />
'''LÁ na GAOITHE''' VD<br />''V. Kelly, G. Moss, 18/8/1985.''<br />Start 3m right of Rainbow Warrior, at the foot of a thin crack just right of the south-facing corner. Traverse in left, then climb corner.<br />
<br />
'''CORA''' ** 20m S<br />''Barry Watts, Ian McLoughlin, 17/9/2017.''<br />Start 2m right of '''LÁ na GAOITHE''' at a wide crack slanting to the right. Traverse across to attain the central cracks in the smooth wall to the top.<br />
<br />
'''WET EIREANN''' 20m S<br />''Barry Watts, David Brosnan, 21/4/2018.''<br />Start 3m right of '''CORA''', climb a thin crack to the grassy ledge in a bay, continue up the left hand corner crack over a slight bulge, follow the block filled crack line rightwards to the top. <br />
<br />
'''SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE''' 15m HS<br />''Colm Peppard, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2017.''<br />Takes the steep clean right angle corner 12m right of Cora where there is a deep inset arm sized crack which provides great protection.<br />
<br />
'''RUSTY'S RAMP''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.''<br />5m right of '''SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE''', the wide grassy ledge begins again.<br />
Climb a left facing cracked arete to gain this ledge, continue up the right trending crack and ramp<br />
to a rock ledge then trend left to the top. <br />
<br />
'''SHAMROCK VIBES''' S<br />''Barry Watts, Clement Saas, 5/5/2018.''<br />Climb the cracked recess 3m right of '''RUSTY'S RAMP''' to a grassy ledge, the grass cranking <br />
requires great commitment. Climb the right hand side of the recess to a rocky ledge then trend left to the top.<br />
[[File:UT M 25.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''ALLEZ STRASBOURG''' HVS 5a<br />''Clement Saas, Barry Watts, 5/5/2018.''<br />10m right of '''SHAMROCK VIBES''' climb a thin shallow crack to the grassy ledge.<br />
Continue up strenuous thin crack in the wall above.<br />
<br />
'''HIGH PLAINS HONCHO''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brian Walker, 27/9/2025.''<br />
<br />
Scramble onto or across the grassy halfway ledge, this route climbs the alcove and right trending crack 3m right of '''ALLEZ STRASBOURG.'''<br />
[[File:UT R 25.jpg|center|thumb|600x600px]]<br />
'''TITAN CRACK''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 23rd June 2023.''<br />
<br />
Start 15m right of '''ALLEZ STRASBOURG''', climb the short wall to the mid way ledge. Move right and climb the wide crack on the upper wall using a boulder on the right to stsrt.<br />
<br />
'''BRUNO THE BRAWLER''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 23rd June 2023.''<br />
<br />
10m to the right of '''TITAN CRACK''' the short lower tier of rock becomes a grass slope and there is a recess with three crack lines above it in the upper tier. Climb the middle crack in this upper tier to a shelf below the steep headwall traverse left to finish. <br />
<br />
'''HAZEL HIGHWAY''' S <br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Brian Walker, 27/9/2025.''<br />
<br />
Climbs the tiered slabby rib 1m right of the recess.<br />
<br />
==Doughbraneen Summit South==<br />
There is a South facing cliff due South of the Doughbraneen Cairn which is further East and uphill of the Upper Tier.[[File:OVERVIEW.jpg|center|thumb|alt=|550x550px]]<br />
Climbs are listed from left to right.<br />
[[File:Tt 1.jpg|center|thumb|325x325px]]<br />
<br />
'''SIMPLY THE BEST''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the rib left of the left facing ramp.<br />
<br />
'''STEAMY WINDOWS''' S<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the left facing corner right of the afore mentioned ramp.<br />
[[File:Tt2.jpg|center|thumb|361x361px|alt=]]<br />
<br />
'''DONT NEED ANOTHER HERO''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2023.''<br />
<br />
15m to the right there is a recess, climb a gully in the back of this recess.<br />
<br />
'''PROUD MARY''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2023.''<br />
<br />
Climb the cracked ramp on the right of the recess.<br />
[[File:Tt 3.jpg|center|thumb]]<br />
<br />
'''PRIVATE DANCER''' VD<br />
<br />
''Barry Watts, Audrey O'Toole, 26th May 2023.''<br />
<br />
Right of the recess there is a cracked wall, take the third crack on this wall.<br />
<br />
==Shepherdesses fold==<br />
On the southern side of the Doughbraneen outcrop, lie the low-walled remains of some stock enclosures and a pretty sheepfold. These are adjacent to a low west-facing rockface with plenty of vertical cracks and short but interesting climbing in the lower grades. Easiest access is from the Kyber pass road.<br />
[[File:PHOTO-2026-06-22-16-54-14 1.jpg|center|thumb|Sheperdesses fold, south of Doughbraneen]]<br />
'''SHOW ME YOUR CROOK''' S<br />
<br />
''Dave Atkinson, Hugh McCarthy, 21st June 2026.''<br />
<br />
First obvious crack line on the right-hand side of the fold when looking at the rock-face. Easier climbing from the mid point albeit on well-weathered and somewhat loose rock.<br />
<br />
'''LAMB SANDWICH''' HS<br />
<br />
''Hugh McCarthy, Dave Atkinson, 21st June 2026.''<br />
<br />
Climb the crack 1.5m left of '''SHOW ME YOUR CROOK''' Care required higher up on some loose rock.<br />
<br /><br />
[[File:PHOTO-2026-06-22-16-54-14 routes.jpg|center|thumb|1. Show me your crook 2. Lamb sandwich]]<br />
<br /></div>Barry watts